Got it all wired in today and I need some help.
I have an older model Autohelm St4000 and a new Echo50s Garmin.\I have the
blue wire from the control head going to the blue wire on the Garmin I have
the red wire to the inst switch and a common ground to the batt.
I have the baud rate set to 4800.
H
The garmin should have a nav button or other way to get it to start
navigating a course or to a waypoint. That should start broadcasting a
course to steer signal. I don't know about the wiring specifically so I
have to assume you followed the manuals for the autohelm and garmin and
matched the in
I've also got the 32 and I have to agree with other posters .. it sounds
like you're making a large investment in time and effort for not a lot of
return, if any. I don't close those seacocks. I just work them once or
twice a year, open, closed, open.
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On Sun, Jan 12
I guess I jumped the assumption gun on the last responce. You question is
too vague. I should have started with, "What protocol is the garmin
using? What protocol is the autohelm using? What protocal are your
masthead instruments using? If you want them to all talk together then you
will proba
I know the CS to be more of a cruising sailboat. I can't comment on
performance but I'm with Dwight when he says the C&C is easier on the eyes.
I've always liked CS boats and the 36T in particular but I would only
choose one over a C&C if long distance voyaging was in the plans.
Steve
Suhana, C&C
No, The guy at Garmin said that the echo50s I purchased is compatible with
0183 and should work fine.
Wire color to color and it should be fine. it also speaks the 2000. I
called raymarine and they said the difference in in the version of the 0183
in my equipment. the older version is vr 3.0 the n
Curtis. Do you have the manual for the gear? If not, get on the Raymarine site,
download it and read it. Operation is quite simple.
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 9:04, Curtis wrote:
>
> Got it all wired in today and I need some help.
> I have an older model Autohelm St4000 and a new Echo50s Garm
Steve
The CS 36 Merlin is nicer than the 36T but still from the outside the 35MKII
wins
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: January 13, 2014 9:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Comparing boats for purchase
Hi Curtis,
With everything hooked up correctly, I think you need to "engage" the
auto-pilot.
As in:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jd1Ih8EUmw
Cheers, Russ
At 05:48 AM 13/01/2014, you wrote:
No, The guy at Garmin said that the echo50s I purchased is
compatible with 0183 and should
Umm... not sure about the st4000 it should also have a button kinda like a
NAV that will tell it to listen to the broadcast course to steer.
Everything else sounds like you have it.
Though something to consider is that the 0183 standard is for a total of 4
wires to send and recieve. RX+GND and T
Here's the URL for Raymarine manuals:
http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=1836
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 9:04, Curtis wrote:
>
> Got it all wired in today and I need some help.
> I have an older model Autohelm St4000 and a new Echo50s Garmin.\I have the
> blue wire from the control head going
I know it has probably been done by others but I am not sure that I would
ever let my ST 4000 plus steer a course unattended based on transfer data
from my chart plotter.
My wheel pilot works fine but I always keep an eye on it and the course
ahead, in bad weather it steers while I sit under th
Curt — it’s been my experience that pretty much NO equipment uses the same
color wire for the same thing, even among equipment from the same manufacturer.
You need to connect the NMEA0183 output wires from the GPS to the NMEA0183
input wires on the autopilot; TX+ and TX- on the Garmin to RX+ an
The blue wire on Raymarine 4000 autopilots is the -V for the power supply.
I suggest you track down whoever told you to hook it up like that and beat
him senseless. Read the manuals for each, it isn't rocket science.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 13 January 2014 05:04,
>From Ray:
Recently Raymarine has identified a potential touchscreen alignment issue
in some e7 and e7D multifunction displays. You may experience an issue with
the e7/e7D touchscreen which can cause the alignment to drift and cause
potentially poor and inaccurate touchscreen performance. The touc
All,
My efforts were all for naught!
I encountered 2 problems:
1. I have a inch propeller shaft and 1 1/4 OD cutlass bearing. I tried to
use a 1" steel nipple and it was too thick. 1" electrical conduit only
pushed against the rubber.
2. The bolt holes were not centered on the shaft, so the
Get a couple of heavy 1" id washers with a diameter 1.25 od or greater and
grind the od to fit the id of the strut. Then use them to spread the force of
the conduit or whatever onto the brass part of the cutless bearing.
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 13:19, Joel Aronson wrote:
>
> All,
>
> My
I think the folks at Farr have some 'splaining to do...
On Sun, Jan 12, 2014 at 10:33 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
> I'm sure he's disappointed:(
>
> Rich
>
> On Jan 12, 2014, at 22:34, "bobmor99 ." wrote:
>
> Not C&C related, but the 76-year-old sailor from down the road in St
> Augustine abandone
and Lyman Morse who built it.
On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 12:44 PM, Colin Kilgour wrote:
> I think the folks at Farr have some 'splaining to do...
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 12, 2014 at 10:33 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
>
>> I'm sure he's disappointed:(
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> On Jan 12, 2014, at 22:34, "bobmor99 ."
I've got 9 of the top end Caframos on board Bojangles. I've probably
replaced them all at least once since 2009, so not cheap. They are nice
though, and when I had some issues with them, they FedEx'd half a dozen of
them to me in Grenada at no cost to me, which was nice.
They've also improved th
Supposedly, this is how accidents happen on Great Lakes. I don’t know if these
are urban legends or not, but I heard that, especially, on Georgian Bay, there
are accidents of boats colliding, because two skippers enter the route based on
buoys as waypoints and since the autopilots plus chartplot
Thanks Frederick, That's the information I was needing.
The wires on the new Garmin "do" have 2 wires with tags on them one with a
(TX-) and one with (TX+) then the back of the ST-4000 looks like this.
Thanks for your help. I will try this.
the
On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 10:35 AM, Frederick G Str
Can’t remember if the shaft is out or still in.
If it’s out, then:
I’ve just measured the outside diameter of a few long reach sockets in my tool
box. A 7/8” has an outside diameter of 1 3/16”.
Alternatively, use a hacksaw to saw (carefully) a long cut along the inside of
the cutlass bearing r
If it were out I'd gladly cut it. It's in.
Thanks anyhow!
Joel
35/3
On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 1:05 PM, wrote:
> Can’t remember if the shaft is out or still in.
> If it’s out, then:
> I’ve just measured the outside diameter of a few long reach sockets in my
> tool box. A 7/8” has an outside di
I just googled it looking for an answer to me problem and This is the
website that I came up with.
http://www.jfaughn.com/crew_boat_projects/projects/garminautohelm/492autohelm.htm
On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 12:10 PM, Jim Watts wrote:
> The blue wire on Raymarine 4000 autopilots is the -V for the
At the risk of being a Luddite...
I love my auto-pilot and use it constantly. But by design it is isolated from
all electronics. I like being "the interface" and having to constantly check
the course et al. Seems safer to me.
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Mon, 13
David,
Its nice being able to set a course to a waypoint and having the AP correct
for tide, slippage etc. It does not relieve me of my obligation to
maintain a watch.
Joel
On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 1:26 PM, David wrote:
> At the risk of being a Luddite...
>
> I love my auto-pilot and use it c
>Though something to consider is that the 0183 standard is for a total of 4
>wires to send and recieve. RX+GND and TX+GND. I didn't see where you
>mentioned all those wires...sounded like too few.
The ST4000 control head is NMEA IN only, two wires marks - +.
>
> So now, If I understand yo
+1 exactly how I have mine set by design.
John
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 1:26 PM, David wrote:
>
> At the risk of being a Luddite...
>
> I love my auto-pilot and use it constantly. But by design it is isolated
> from all electronics. I like being "the interface" and having
I have a flux gate compass I disconnected it from the head because I
thought the auto-pilot head would now get its heading from the GPS unit?
So I will take some photos and show you what I have.
How will I ever nap a nap in???
On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Michael Brown wrote:
>
>
> >Thoug
Don't know about boats on GPS auto-pilot colliding, but planes have. In
2006 a 737 collided with a private jet in Brazil. The private plane lost
wing tips but managed to land. The airliner crashed.
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/03/business/03road.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0
The cause was eventua
On 2014/01/12 9:41 PM, John Charlesworth wrote:
I don't fancy the crossed lines idea, doesn't really make sense to
me with the hull shape of this boat which is pretty flat in the stern
area.
They are crossed now.at least all the 32's around here are.
>To the person who said you jus
Curt — seriously, read the installation manual for the ST4000. It NEEDS to
have the fluxgate compass input; it does NOT get heading info from GPS, nor
could it, as heading does not equal course over ground (COG) in most cases.
Hook that thing back up!
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1
I bought one of these Blue Sea connectors in preparation, which I thought would work:I have not looked at the lazarette, but how would you run the cables into the lazarette without drilling holes, especially given the size of the MC4 connectors? DaveOn Jan 12, 2014, at 10:00 AM, Rick Brass
Curtis:
The fluxgate compass is the primary source of heading information for the
autopilot head and should not be disconnected.
When you push the "AUTO" button, the course computer locks on to the compass
heading the boat is on and develops internal correcting signals as the boat
yaws to eit
Hi, Bob — I was looking over your project blog, and see that you’ve already
done a bunch of things I have on my project list! In particular, I’d be
interested in getting any info you can provide on the HDPE welding/fabrication
for your Dorade boxes (did you weld them yourself?); as well as inst
Okay, well I guess it’s NOT off-list… :^)
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Jan 13, 2014, at 3:28 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:
> Hi, Bob — I was looking over your project blog, and see that you’ve already
> done a bunch of
Most wires up to about 1/4" in diameter can be run into a locker at some point
around its perimeter and then close the lid on it.
Rich
On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:17 PM, David Knecht wrote:
I bought one of these Blue Sea connectors in preparation, which I thought would
work:
<242266.jpg>
I
Now you know why I asked such basic questions that some of you thought heavy
on Curtis.
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: January 13, 2014 5:27 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm St4000 how it should work with
Well, we're not all good at everything!
Rich
On Jan 13, 2014, at 5:37 PM, dwight wrote:
Now you know why I asked such basic questions that some of you thought heavy on
Curtis…
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: January 13, 2014 5:27 PM
Autopilots without a flux-gate compass are problematic and add to that no input
from the rudder angle and you have a "auto-weaver".
My Simrad wheel-pilot on my Bristol 30 did not have either. Hence the
knick-name.
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
From: f...@postaudio.net
D
Really? These are pretty heavy stiff cables. I thought the cover was an
overlapping fit to prevent water ingress. My guess is that these cables would
prevent the cover from closing at all. I will take a closer look when I am
down there next weekend. Dave
On Jan 13, 2014, at 4:30 PM, Rich K
I'm pretty sure the Simrad has a fluxgate built into the wheel unit. That's the
only way it can determine direction.
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 18:02, David wrote:
>
>
>
> Autopilots without a flux-gate compass are problematic and add to that no
> input from the rudder angle and you have a
If that doesn't work, make up a cable that will fit using flexible 2 conductor
#16 wire which should be heavy enough and splice a connector on the end.
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 18:11, David Knecht wrote:
>
> Really? These are pretty heavy stiff cables. I thought the cover was an
> overla
Rich
Agree on that, I am not yet aware of your weak points.sounds like women
might be a problem.but please remember I have very little data to base that
on
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: January 13, 2014 5:48 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc
If that's the case, I'm in excellent company. :)
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 18:17, "dwight" wrote:
>
> Rich
> Agree on that, I am not yet aware of your weak points…sounds like women might
> be a problem…but please remember I have very little data to base that on
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cn
Don’t forget to change the subject line… :^)
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Jan 13, 2014, at 4:19 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
> If that's the case, I'm in excellent company. :)
>
> Rich
>
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 18:17, "dwight
I almost shudder at posting in this thread, but . . . . . .
One other point, read the manual, and set the gain on the auto pilot. You will
never get optimum performance, read: a straight course, without doing this step
in the set up, AND every time that power is completely removed from the pilo
Geez. Now we're back to that over-the-rail safety stuff.
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 18:21, Frederick G Street wrote:
>
> Don’t forget to change the subject line… :^)
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
>
>> On Jan 13, 201
Not to be picky, but your last step should not be required every time you shut
off the power. The settings are retained in non-volatile memory.
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 18:24, Wwadjourn wrote:
>
> I almost shudder at posting in this thread, but . . . . . .
> One other point, read the manua
What Rich said.
My 25 has no AC system, and I use a Guest portable battery charger to
maintain the batteries, one of which is in a box in the forward end of each
cockpit locker. I hook up the portable charger to one of the batteries, turn
the 1-2-all switch to all, and plug the charger into a 5
BTW, if you decide to splice the Blue Sea connector onto your solar panel
wire, save the MC4 connectors and let me know. I'll have you send them to me
and I can use them on wiring the 30 watt panel I've never gotten around to
installing to trickle charge the batteries on my 25.
Rick Brass
F
I was just guessing and agitating, I really don't know Rich all that well
but I can tell you that he was there to help me when I needed his
electronics knowledge.it's fair to say he is sort of a guru on that around
here.
Don't be scared to contribute and keep it light.I just was making the poin
Joel,
Thanks much for the E7 info. Mine started acting up at the end of this season
(its first) and I am hoping it is covered. I'll let you know.
Harry
Sent from my old iPhone
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 12:13, Joel Aronson wrote:
>
> From Ray:
>
> Recently Raymarine has identified a potential to
Harry,
Mine did too so I sent it back. It was repaired no charge. I have not
reinstalled it yet.
On Monday, January 13, 2014, Harry Hallgring wrote:
> Joel,
> Thanks much for the E7 info. Mine started acting up at the end of this
> season (its first) and I am hoping it is covered. I'll let you
> Subject: Flanman posted topic C & C 38-3
>
>
> Flanman has just posted a new topic entitled "C & C 38-3" in forum "Sailing
> Anarchy".
>
> --
> Looking for a fast cruiser. Appreciate any input on either or both.
> -
Yeah, well Rich, tell that to my shrivel., please
Bill walker
Sent from my HTC
- Reply message -
From: "Rich Knowles"
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Stus-List Autohelm St4000 how it should work with the GPS
Date: Mon, Jan 13, 2014 5:38 PM
Not to be picky, but your last step sho
I rarely let Otto drive the boat from the GPS, but I will frequently set
the wind angle hold while we get drinks etc. This setting will keep the
boat sailing to the set of the sails rather than trying to set a
waypoint. We literally have sailed in a circle on Lake Michigan during
variable win
Ops, how does spell checker take autohelm to shrivel? H. Another topic
altogether.
Sent from my HTC
- Reply message -
From: "wwadjo...@aol.com"
To:
Subject: Stus-ListAutohelm St4000 how it should work with the GPS
Date: Mon, Jan 13, 2014 7:15 PM
Yeah, well Rich, tell that to my s
Ah sheesh, Google is now linking Sailing Anarchy content with Stu's List.
And so it goes...
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 7:11 PM, D Harben wrote:
>
> *Subject:* *Flanman posted topic C & C 38-3*
>
>
> Flanman has just posted a new topic entitled "C & C 38-3" in forum
> "Sailing
Jim,
I haven't found mine either. Still looking..
Jake
Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2014 7:03 PM
I think its embedded in the grp under the icebox.take the opportunity to
improve the insulation, just rip the icebox out, find the hidden number and
reinstall with better insulation than when she came from the factory :-)
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behal
Jim,
I retract my previous statement. I did find the number. In Nov 2007 I was
having the keel R&R'd. They removed the wood top from the dinette bench on
the port side. The number is embedded there. It is black and appears to be
molded into the base of the settee. I can send you a pic, of
Not sure about boats, but this HAS happened with airplanes. I also know of at
least one singlehander that used a mark of some kind as a waypoint and got a
direct hit while sleeping.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic
Sent: M
NMEA 0183 is essentially a one wire system if you use the 12 volt ground. It
has data + and ground, which is 99% of the time common with 12 volt ground.
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Brown
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2014 2:20 PM
To: cnc
Can you send me the pick as well Jake?
I've had that wood off, did not notice a HIN. gcollins (at)
hfx.eastlink.ca
Thanks.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2014-01-13 8:52 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
Can't we stop that? I avoid that site for a reason.
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
On Jan 13, 2014, at 19:29, "bobmor99 ." wrote:
> Ah sheesh, Google is now linking Sailing Anarchy content with Stu
Yes, please Jake. My boat has been modified with an additional water tank
there...
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 13 January 2014 17:05, Graham Collins wrote:
> Can you send me the pick as well Jake? I've had that wood off, did not
> notice a HIN. gcollins (at) hfx.e
Hmm. Bill, If you are saying every time you shut off the power to the auto
helm, the settings revert, that is not right. I've installed and set up many of
them and never had that problem except for one unit. The problem with that one
was an electrolytic capacitor that had been installed at the f
Gotta love automistake!
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 20:15, "wwadjo...@aol.com" wrote:
>
> Yeah, well Rich, tell that to my shrivel., please
> Bill walker
>
> Sent from my HTC
>
> - Reply message -
> From: "Rich Knowles"
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
> Subject: Stus-List Autohelm St
>Not to be picky, but your last step should not be required every time you shut
>off the power. The settings are retained in non-volatile memory.
The settings are saved, and should last over the winter. Some of the older
units are losing their ability to save into non-volatile memory.
Als
Here in Halifax harbour, if I go parallel to and within a couple hundred feet
of the Panamax floating dry dock, a big chunk of steel, with the auto helm on,
I'll get steered right off course and into the side of the dry dock. Same with
big ships at anchor.
Some years ago, A guy with a Nonsuch 3
Rich,
Not every time power off, but it seems in spring after winter where batteries
pulled and taken to basement that Need to Re swing the fluxgate and adjust the
gain. Maybe not, but it seems to lose this memory over winter.
Bill
Sent from my HTC
- Reply message -
From: "Rich Kno
That's possible as the units age. Again, possibly a capacitor leakage issue.
Minor inconvenience if it's only once a year.
Rich
> On Jan 13, 2014, at 21:51, "wwadjo...@aol.com" wrote:
>
> Rich,
> Not every time power off, but it seems in spring after winter where batteries
> pulled and take
I do a calibration on my ST4000+ wheel pilot every year and often I check it
during the sailing season, especially if I have a longer trip planned alone.
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
wwadjo...@aol.com
Sent: January 13, 2014 9:51 PM
To: cnc-list@c
Rich,
I have read and continue to read the manuals for all this equipment. I note
a bit of frustration with regards’ to my lack of understanding of this
equipment. I have only owned my C&C30 for a couple of years now, The boat
came with a lot of st50 auto-helm equipment
1) Tri-data
2) VMG
3)
Curtis,
The great thing about sailboats is there is so much to learn. No one knows it
all so this list is a great resource.
Learning is a lifelong endevour. I'm still learning and I've owned my boat for
11 years. I find I can't remember it all, so I follow the manuals to install
and troublesho
Hello List,
I have a 1979 C&C 34 with the original 2 blade martec folding prop. While at
the yard today a friend suggested changing the prop to a fixed three blade
for greater propulsion. The previous owner was a racer and I am more of a
cruiser. My friend suggested that the 3 blade drag would
The folding prop will get you to hull speed and push you through chop if it
is the proper pitch, which is all you can expect the 3 blade prop to do.
Reverse, as you already know, can be a learning experience with the Martec.
It will work fine at higher RPM, but tends to suck for backing up at low o
I bought a sailboat to sail. If I wanted a powerboat, I'd buy a bass boat or a
ski boat or a fishing boat or a house boat.
I choose what's best for sailing and bought a MaxProp in 2007.
Personal choice is what it's all about. The cost differences are very different
as is performance . I changed
I've just ordered a 15x9R Flexofold from Denmark. I've currently got a 3 blade fixed prop and if I can get another 1/2 to 1 knot it will be worth the money!
Yes but humbling yourself does not indemnify you from an obligation to
answer the question yourself or even just RFM.
On Jan 13, 2014 10:37 PM, "Chuck S" wrote:
> Curtis,
> The great thing about sailboats is there is so much to learn. No one
> knows it all so this list is a great resource.
> Lea
I went with a Kiwi prop about three years ago. It is a three blade, so you get
the propulsion advantage of a three blade and it feathers to reduce drag. At
the time it cost me about 1500. For me I still have a long ways to go with
getting the sails properly trimmed and this has more of an effect
KEEP THE ELECTRONICS!
The speed wheel is probably full of the last seasons marine growth. A
tooth brush should straighten that out.
Yes you can get the autohelm to steer to the wind. On my symrad unit I
have to configure it for one or the other. Not too hard but certainly not
on the fly. Stee
Hi Curtis.
Apologies for sounding frustrated. You are asking some simple questions for
which there are relatively complex answers. I appreciate where you are as it's
a place where most of us have been at one point, but it's so long ago we have
forgotten:) I think we are all trying to answer you
Tear them all out and send them to me, you'll never find any use for
them. In return I will send you my wind instruments, which mostly
consists of some cassette tape tied to the shrouds.
Cheers,
Paul.
On 14-01-13 09:56 PM, Josh Muckley wrote:
KEEP THE ELECTRONICS!
The speed wheel is probabl
I had to knock the pin out of my paddlewheel and replace the wheel and the
pin, since I had whacked into something hard and it stopped working, pretty
much. Bent the pin, knocked one of the lobes off the paddlewheel. Then I
put the new paddlewheel on backwards, and it worked well enough since I had
Hi Brian,
I can recommend KiwiProp, since I've had one for 1/2 dozen years.
Probably the best value in a feathering prop and great bite in
reverse. Sometimes enough to stall a small engine. :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 07:44 PM 13/01/2014, you wrote:
Content-Type: multip
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