Hi Curtis.

Apologies for sounding frustrated. You are asking some simple questions for 
which there are relatively complex answers. I appreciate where you are as it's 
a place where most of us have been at one point, but it's so long ago we have 
forgotten:) I think we are all trying to answer your questions with the best we 
have to offer. I was under the mistaken impression that you did not have the 
manuals for the gear. Sorry! Bear with us. We all have the best of intentions!

I looks like you have a well equipped boat, even if the gear is not brand new. 
A couple of comments:

If your paddlewheel on your speed/temp transducer is not turning freely, you 
should be able to remove it inside the boat and push the paddle wheel shaft out 
to remove the wheel, clean it up, and get it going freely. If your boat is in 
the water, you can still pull the transducer out as long as you are prepared 
for a short spurt of water until you get a plug or the dummy transducer in the 
hole. The lack of continuity, however you are measuring it, may or may not mean 
anything. Try getting it rotating freely and spin it while it's in the boat to 
see if it's registering on your knotmeter. 

If the wind vane is working ok, you should be able to tie it into the autohelm 
and use it as a steering sensor. Your manuals should tell you how.

Don't give up! We're here to help you out, and annoy the hell out of you 
occasionally just to get even:)

Cheers.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


On Jan 13, 2014, at 11:09 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:

Rich,

I have read and continue to read the manuals for all this equipment. I note a 
bit of frustration with regards’ to my lack of understanding of this equipment. 
I have only owned my C&C30 for a couple of years now, The boat came with a lot 
of st50 auto-helm equipment






1) Tri-data

2) VMG

3) ST4000

4) Wind

5) Multi

6) Speed Trim

7) NAV-Data

8) I also have a 36” pole with a wind feather on the top of it? Z159

 
Transducers’= (wind speed true/app Direction)

(Water speed paddle wheel)

(Depth temp)

(Wind angle? Z159)

(Fluxgate)

 
Everything seams to power up, but the paddlewheel will not turn freely. And 
there is no continuity in the cable? So, it’s fair to say the speed trans is no 
good.

The fluxgate I was able to swing in as the “Manual” instructed. I’m able to set 
the clutch in place and hold the boat at the heading I point it at using the 
st4000 so I know that works. But reading the above makes sense that it would be 
independent of the Garmin GPS. However I was told that’s what makes the system 
so cool is It would follow a courts set by gps. If I read Schiller’s post 
correctly I could set it to receive the wind vane so I might steer a wind 
angle? Now that would be progress.

 
Moving forward I will hook back up the Fluxgate compass and reconsider what 
else?

 
Thanks again its just so much to take in for someone that has never been 
involved in marine electronics and new to boat ownership as well.

I will get it. It just may take me more time than I was hoping for.

Thanks again for all the advice and help. With out you guys I would flounder 
for months on this stuff.  Maybe I should just cut it all loose and e-bay it. 
Just use the Garmin and the depth sounder. It would be a way to watch both ends 
of the boat in close anchorages.

Cheers, Curtis



On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:
Curtis:

The fluxgate compass is the primary source of heading information for the 
autopilot head and should not be disconnected. 

When you push the "AUTO" button, the course computer locks on to the compass 
heading the boat is on and develops internal correcting signals as the boat 
yaws to either side of the original heading and uses those cross-track error 
signals to drive the wheel and hold the course steady. Once properly set up, 
the course holding abilities of the ST4000 are quite good and you should be on 
a constant course in the direction originally set. This way of using the ST4000 
is the standard way of operating. It's just fine for relatively short legs but, 
as it only uses the boat's heading as a reference, it cannot compensate for 
current or leeway of the boat. In other words, you could be doing 220 deg for 
several hours and be miles of your intended destination if a cross current 
caused by tide has pushed you away from the rhumb line.

To avoid getting pushed off course by factors that the fluxgate compass cannot 
measure or compensate for, an external source of cross-track error signals is 
needed that uses the final destination point as the reference from which to 
calculate whether course correction is needed.

When you have a "GO TO" destination set up and activated on the GPS unit, the 
GPS will develop off course signals that can be used by the auto helm computer 
to steer the boat to the destination. That information is delivered to the 
ST4000 via the NMEA signals.

Pardon me if you are aware of this already. I strongly recommend reading the 
manuals and, if there are terms that are unclear, Google them up. 

Hook that compass up and RTFM!

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On Jan 13, 2014, at 4:26 PM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:

I have a flux gate compass I disconnected it from the head because I thought 
the auto-pilot head would now get its heading from the GPS unit?
  
So I will take some photos and show you what I have.

How will I ever nap a nap in??? 


On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca> wrote:


>Though something to consider is that the 0183 standard is for a total of 4 
>wires to send and recieve.  RX+GND and TX+GND.  I didn't see where you 
>mentioned all those wires...sounded like too few. 

The ST4000 control head is NMEA IN only, two wires marks - +.


> 
> So now, If I understand you correctly. I first have to create a route then to 
> start navigating a course or to a way-point.  That should start 
> broadcasting a course to steer signal. then I in-gauge the st4000  by 
> pressing the +10 and -10 at the same time and it should start taking 
> direction from the Garmin? 
> does this sound correct? 
> 


With NEMA to the ST4000 it depends on what is being sent. Autohelm describes two
scenarios,  automatic acquisition and manual acquisition.

Automatic - both cross track error and bearing to waypoint are sent
Manual - only cross track error is sent

With automatic get everything engaged and press +10 and -10 together. The manual
requires that you get on course withing 5 degrees of the bearing to the 
waypoint and
cross track less than 0.1 nm, then press +10 and -10 together.

My guess is, and strictly a guess, is that the ST4000 uses its own fluxgate 
compass
for navigation and takes some error correction from NEMA for cross track.




>I know it has probably been done by others but I am not sure that I would 
>ever let my ST 4000 plus steer a course unattended based on transfer data 
>from my chart plotter. 


I wonder if that was what Autohelm was thinking, they seem to use the fluxgate 
compass.


> Curt ? it?s been my experience that pretty much NO equipment uses the same 
> color wire for the same thing, even among equipment from the same 
> manufacturer.  
>You need to connect the NMEA0183 output wires from the GPS to the NMEA0183 
>input wires on the > autopilot; TX+ and TX- on the Garmin to RX+ and RX- on 
>the Raymarine.
>I can guarantee that the chances of any two of these wires having common 
>colors is about zero. 


Supposedly the + is Red and - is Blue, however Autohelm agrees with you. They 
are marked + and - only.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1 


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_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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-- 
At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.
-  Robin Lee Graham

_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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