Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Josh Muckley]

This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.  It is of a basic
Chinese knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.
Worth a try anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:

> Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
> James
> Delaney
> C&C 38 MkII
> Oriental, NC
>
> - Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
>
>
>  Danny,
>>
>> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
>> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!)  Did it have any effect?  It may also be
>> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees
>> or
>> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4.  Another thing to try is
>> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments.  If it idles better then
>> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
>> lean at idle.
>>
>> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
>> too much fuel is entering the carb.  Sometimes the float valve can be
>> freed
>> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the
>> carb
>> is empty.  Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
>> moment or two.  The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the
>> float
>> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>>
>> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>>
>> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
>> out the various jets with compressed air.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List 
>> [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-**list.com]
>> On Behalf Of
>> djhaug...@juno.com
>> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and
>> It's
>> getting better and better but I think It should be better still.  When I
>> looked inside the carb.  It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>>
>> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner.  Although it is better I want to try a
>> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>>
>> I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this
>> one
>>
>> for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
>> http://www.carburetion.com/**Products/ProductDetails.aspx?**Part=KT-5535
>>
>> It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically,
>> it
>> seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
>>
>> Is moyer really just price gouging?
>>
>> he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
>> you carb.  I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he
>> is
>> charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos...  I'll
>> probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
>> the kit!  Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
>> business...  I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
>>
>> Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?
>>
>> Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was
>> buying
>> the Moyer exchange engine.  So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to
>> have
>> a rebuilt one on standby...
>>
>> I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46
>> Moyer
>> wants $270
>>
>> http://www.farmersserviceinc.**com/marine.htm
>>
>> Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated!  I thought this could
>> be
>> good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL
>>
>> Danny
>>
>>
>>
>> __**_
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> __**_
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
> __**_
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[djhaug...@juno.com]

I will look at the tube!  thanks...no one has brought that up yet and I never 
thought of it..

I have been playing with the idle mix screw It does have an effect but I still 
can't seem to get it to idle low enough

I'm kind of saving the timing for last.  I'm assuming Moyer set that precisely 
before it left their shop and I really don't want to mess with it yet.

The choke seems to want to be fully open.  I have a spare carburetor I rebuilt 
last year sitting in my toolbox.  I'm going to swap that out next.  That 
"should" eliminate clogged jets as a possible problem.

I just put the plugs in this season and gapped them to spec,  They are all a 
nice golden brown color.

Here is a link to the carb with the flame arrestor removed
http://sdrv.ms/14SwiMr

...and here is one of a the #1 spark plug
http://sdrv.ms/1eZpLVP

You can probably scroll around and see other photos and a couple of videos of 
the engine running.




-- Original Message --
From: "jtsails" 
To: , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 00:06:20 -0400

Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


> Danny,
>
> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!)  Did it have any effect?  It may also be
> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees 
> or
> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4.  Another thing to try is
> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments.  If it idles better then
> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
> lean at idle.
>
> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
> too much fuel is entering the carb.  Sometimes the float valve can be 
> freed
> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the 
> carb
> is empty.  Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
> moment or two.  The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
> float
> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>
> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>
> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
> out the various jets with compressed air.
>
> Mike
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> djhaug...@juno.com
> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and 
> It's
> getting better and better but I think It should be better still.  When I
> looked inside the carb.  It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>
> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner.  Although it is better I want to try a
> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>
> I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this 
> one
>
> for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
> http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
>
> It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, 
> it
> seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
>
> Is moyer really just price gouging?
>
> he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
> you carb.  I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he 
> is
> charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos...  I'll
> probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
> the kit!  Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
> business...  I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
>
> Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?
>
> Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was 
> buying
> the Moyer exchange engine.  So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to 
> have
> a rebuilt one on standby...
>
> I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46 
> Moyer
> wants $270
>
> http://www.farmersserviceinc.com/marine.htm
>
> Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated!  I thought this could 
> be
> good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Josh, Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home. I really 
appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it! Thanks,Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400


This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic 
Chinese knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� 
Worth a try anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Josh
-- 
 When privacy matters.
 http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
 James
 Delaney
 C&C 38 MkII
 Oriental, NC
 
 - Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
 To: 
 Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
 
Danny,
 
 I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
 screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It 
may also be
 worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
 so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try 
is
 to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better 
then
 something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
 lean at idle.
 
 Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
 too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be 
freed
 up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
 is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
 moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
float
 valve if it is a bit gummy.
 
 I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
 
 All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
 out the various jets with compressed air.
 
 Mike
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
 djhaug...@juno.com
 Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
 
 Hello all,
 
 I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and 
It's
 getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
 looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,
 
 I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to 
try a
 rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
 
 I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one
 
 for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
 http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
 
 It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it
 seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
 
 Is moyer really just price gouging?
 
 he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
 you carb. �I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if 
he is
 charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos... 
�I'll
 probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
 the kit! �Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
 business... �I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
 
 Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?
 
 Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was buying
 the Moyer exchange engine. �So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to 
have
 a rebuilt one on standby...
 
 I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46 Moyer
 wants $270
 
 http://www.farmersserviceinc.com/marine.htm
 
 Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated! �I thought this 
could be
 good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL
 
 Danny
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Della Barba, Joe]

Just FYI – I bought a new carb (at full Moyer price too) when I just could NOT 
get the engine to idle correctly no matter how many times I cleaned or rebuilt 
it. Apparently they develop issues other than what can be fixed by cleaning. I 
have noticed the metal itself will corrode and produce this odd looking whitish 
gunk if any water comes through with the gas and/or if the engine gets flooded.
I still don’t get the 20 some hours thing. Wouldn’t that be a few weeks at most 
from being brand new?  I think I had 20 hours on my new engine within 3 weeks 
of installing it at most. Did the new engine come with a new carb?


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

Josh,

Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.

I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!

Thanks,
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400

This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic Chinese 
knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� Worth a try 
anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Josh

--
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails" 
mailto:jtsai...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
mailto:md...@ca.inter.net>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

Danny,

I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try is
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better then
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
lean at idle.

Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be freed
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the float
valve if it is a bit gummy.

I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.

All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
out the various jets with compressed air.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

Hello all,

I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and It's
getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,

I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try a
rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.

I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one

for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535

It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it
seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.

Is moyer really just price gouging?

he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
you carb. �I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he is
charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos... �I'll
probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
the kit! �Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
business... �I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...

Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?

Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was buying
the Moyer exchange engine. �So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to have
a rebuilt one on standby...

I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46 Moyer
wants $270

http://www.farmersserviceinc.com/marine.htm

Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated! �I thought this could be
good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL

Danny



___
Th

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[djhaug...@juno.com]

The new engine came with a carb...whether new or not...I'm not sure at this 
point.  I did assume that. A few weeks is correct,  We only got in the water in 
late august last year and took the boat out maybe 6 times.  This year we have 
only been out 3 times so far because I've been fighting these issues since 
early july... Those 20 something hours include idling and running at the dock 
during troubleshooting and warming up and prepping to leave dock or mooring... 
Under load I'd bet it hasn't seen 12-15 hours.  Actually now that I think about 
it...I haven't even burned a full tank of fuel yet.  18 gallons... On average,  
I probably run the engine 1 to 3 hours each time I take it out.  If i'm just 
day-sailing, a 1/2 hour out of the harbor and 1/2 hour back in...  I'm hoping 
one day soon to shorten that as I learn the boat and the harbor and maybe begin 
sailing in and out of the harbor!  Of course, that seems an ambitious goal 
right now... Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 08:58:44 -0400


Just FYI – I bought a new carb (at full Moyer price too) when I just 
could NOT get the engine to idle correctly no matter how many times I cleaned 
or rebuilt it. Apparently they develop issues other than what can be fixed by 
cleaning. I have noticed the metal itself will corrode and produce this odd 
looking whitish gunk if any water comes through with the gas and/or if the 
engine gets flooded.
I still don’t get the 20 some hours thing. Wouldn’t that be a few 
weeks at most from being brand new?  I think I had 20 hours on my new engine 
within 3 weeks of installing it at most. Did the new engine come with a new 
carb?
 
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
Josh,
 
Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.
 
I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!
 
Thanks,
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400
This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic 
Chinese knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� 
Worth a try anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Josh
-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


Danny,

I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It 
may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try 
is
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better 
then
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
lean at idle.

Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be 
freed
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
float
valve if it is a bit gummy.

I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.

All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
out the various jets with compressed air.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

Hello all,

I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and 
It's
getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,

I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try 
a
rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.

I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one

for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535

It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it
seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.

Is moyer really just price gouging?

he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on troubl

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Della Barba, Joe]

I would call Moyer ASAP and see what they say. I also would get a new carb from 
someplace if this goes on.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

The new engine came with a carb...whether new or not...I'm not sure at this 
point.  I did assume that.

A few weeks is correct,  We only got in the water in late august last year and 
took the boat out maybe 6 times.  This year we have only been out 3 times so 
far because I've been fighting these issues since early july...

Those 20 something hours include idling and running at the dock during 
troubleshooting and warming up and prepping to leave dock or mooring...

Under load I'd bet it hasn't seen 12-15 hours.  Actually now that I think about 
it...I haven't even burned a full tank of fuel yet.  18 gallons...

On average,  I probably run the engine 1 to 3 hours each time I take it out.  
If i'm just day-sailing, a 1/2 hour out of the harbor and 1/2 hour back in...  
I'm hoping one day soon to shorten that as I learn the boat and the harbor and 
maybe begin sailing in and out of the harbor!  Of course, that seems an 
ambitious goal right now...

Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 08:58:44 -0400
Just FYI – I bought a new carb (at full Moyer price too) when I just could NOT 
get the engine to idle correctly no matter how many times I cleaned or rebuilt 
it. Apparently they develop issues other than what can be fixed by cleaning. I 
have noticed the metal itself will corrode and produce this odd looking whitish 
gunk if any water comes through with the gas and/or if the engine gets flooded.
I still don’t get the 20 some hours thing. Wouldn’t that be a few weeks at most 
from being brand new?  I think I had 20 hours on my new engine within 3 weeks 
of installing it at most. Did the new engine come with a new carb?


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

Josh,

Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.

I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!

Thanks,
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400

This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic Chinese 
knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� Worth a try 
anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Josh

--
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails" 
mailto:jtsai...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
mailto:md...@ca.inter.net>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Danny,

I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try is
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better then
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
lean at idle.

Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be freed
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the float
valve if it is a bit gummy.

I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.

All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
out the various jets with compressed air.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

Hello all,

I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[djhaug...@juno.com]

I've been in contact with Don through email...I tried everything he suggested 
so far...

-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 09:29:01 -0400


I would call Moyer ASAP and see what they say. I also would get a new carb from 
someplace if this goes on.
 
Joe Della Barba
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
The new engine came with a carb...whether new or not...I'm not sure at this 
point.  I did assume that.
 
A few weeks is correct,  We only got in the water in late august last year and 
took the boat out maybe 6 times.  This year we have only been out 3 times so 
far because I've been fighting these issues since early july...
 
Those 20 something hours include idling and running at the dock during 
troubleshooting and warming up and prepping to leave dock or mooring...
 
Under load I'd bet it hasn't seen 12-15 hours.  Actually now that I think about 
it...I haven't even burned a full tank of fuel yet.  18 gallons...
 
On average,  I probably run the engine 1 to 3 hours each time I take it out.  
If i'm just day-sailing, a 1/2 hour out of the harbor and 1/2 hour back in...  
I'm hoping one day soon to shorten that as I learn the boat and the harbor and 
maybe begin sailing in and out of the harbor!  Of course, that seems an 
ambitious goal right now...
 
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 08:58:44 -0400
Just FYI – I bought a new carb (at full Moyer price too) when I just 
could NOT get the engine to idle correctly no matter how many times I cleaned 
or rebuilt it. Apparently they develop issues other than what can be fixed by 
cleaning. I have noticed the metal itself will corrode and produce this odd 
looking whitish gunk if any water comes through with the gas and/or if the 
engine gets flooded.
I still don’t get the 20 some hours thing. Wouldn’t that be a few 
weeks at most from being brand new?  I think I had 20 hours on my new engine 
within 3 weeks of installing it at most. Did the new engine come with a new 
carb?
 
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
Josh,
 
Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.
 
I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!
 
Thanks,
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400
This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic 
Chinese knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� 
Worth a try anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Josh
-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Danny,

I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It 
may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try 
is
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better 
then
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
lean at idle.

Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be 
freed
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
float
valve if it is a bit gummy.

I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.

All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
out the various jets with compressed air.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

Hello all,

I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and 
It's
getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
looked

Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs

[OldSteveH]

On our recent sailing trip two of the plastic/nylon slugs broke and need to
be replaced.
I would appreciate comments from others on the possibility of doing this
ones self.

The slugs are wrapped through their slots with a piece of webbing material
which is stitched to the sail and is also melted or 'welded' to itself to
attach slug to sail luff.

The sail is older but still has good shape (kevlar). I am reluctant to keep
spending money on an old sail but it is worth repairing if there is a good
DIY solution for a non-sailmaker. I have watched some Youtube video on this
but would appreciate comments from the list group.

Thanks,


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON







___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Sylvain Laplante]

Hi,
   Typically timing should be set before you adjust the carb . One thing to 
note also is that with a new engine it is normal to have to adjust it again, as 
the rings seal better, internal resistance decrease ( after break-in ).

Make sure ALL the intake gaskets seal properly and are tightened to recommended 
torque, typically an erratic idle will be caused by a dirty idle circuit or, 
quite often, by an air leak ( shown sometimes when it runs better with choke on 
). There are different ways to trace an air leak ( vaporize gas, wd-40, ether ) 
around each joint between intake manifold and carb ), for that, ask Don Moyer 
about which fluid he recommends you to use.

On most carburetors, idle mixture screw should be adjusted when throttle is 
completely closed, no choke on, engine warm and properly timed. Of course 
valves should be adjusted within specs but I don't think you will need to go 
that far :-)

Sylvain
C&C27MkIII




 From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 

I will look at the tube!  thanks...no one has brought that up yet and I never 
thought of it..

I have been playing with the idle mix screw It does have an effect but I still 
can't seem to get it to idle low enough

I'm kind of saving the timing for last.  I'm assuming Moyer set that precisely 
before it left their shop and I really don't want to mess with it yet.

The choke seems to want to be fully open.  I have a spare carburetor I rebuilt 
last year sitting in my toolbox.  I'm going to swap that out next.  That 
"should" eliminate clogged jets as a possible problem.

I just put the plugs in this season and gapped them to spec,  They are all a 
nice golden brown color.

Here is a link to the carb with the flame arrestor removed
http://sdrv.ms/14SwiMr

...and here is one of a the #1 spark plug
http://sdrv.ms/1eZpLVP

You can probably scroll around and see other photos and a couple of videos of 
the engine running.




-- Original Message --
From: "jtsails" 
To: , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 00:06:20 -0400

Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


> Danny,
>
> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!)  Did it have any effect?  It may also be
> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees 
> or
> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4.  Another thing to try is
> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments.  If it idles better then
> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
> lean at idle.
>
> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
> too much fuel is entering the carb.  Sometimes the float valve can be 
> freed
> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the 
> carb
> is empty.  Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
> moment or two.  The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
> float
> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>
> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>
> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
> out the various jets with compressed air.
>
> Mike
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> djhaug...@juno.com
> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and 
> It's
> getting better and better but I think It should be better still.  When I
> looked inside the carb.  It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>
> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner.  Although it is better I want to try a
> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>
> I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this 
> one
>
> for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
> http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
>
> It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, 
> it
> seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
>
> Is moyer really just price gouging?
>
> he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
> you carb.  I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he 
> is
> charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos...  I'll
> probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
> the kit!  Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
> business...  I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
>
> Anywa

Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs

[Knowles Rich]

Nylon tie wraps work well. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 10:44, OldSteveH  wrote:

On our recent sailing trip two of the plastic/nylon slugs broke and need to
be replaced.
I would appreciate comments from others on the possibility of doing this
ones self.

The slugs are wrapped through their slots with a piece of webbing material
which is stitched to the sail and is also melted or 'welded' to itself to
attach slug to sail luff.

The sail is older but still has good shape (kevlar). I am reluctant to keep
spending money on an old sail but it is worth repairing if there is a good
DIY solution for a non-sailmaker. I have watched some Youtube video on this
but would appreciate comments from the list group.

Thanks,


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON







___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Richard Walter]

Greetings,

After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are considering 
moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier coastal/bluewater cruiser 
with more comfort, better tracking, more convenient sail-handling (in-mast or 
in-boom) and a master stateroom with a centerline berth (which pretty much 
requires we buy a center cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol 
yachts; they seem to meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 
47.7. Does anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we should 
consider?

Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a non-C&C 
topic.

sailind...@yahoo.com

Thank you,
Richard
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs

[Tim Goodyear]

No problem doing this yourself; slugs are available from WM or Defender and 
stitching the webbing is fine with whipping thread.  There are also plastic 
shackles available instead of webbing.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Aug 20, 2013, at 7:44 AM, OldSteveH  wrote:

> On our recent sailing trip two of the plastic/nylon slugs broke and need to
> be replaced.
> I would appreciate comments from others on the possibility of doing this
> ones self.
> 
> The slugs are wrapped through their slots with a piece of webbing material
> which is stitched to the sail and is also melted or 'welded' to itself to
> attach slug to sail luff.
> 
> The sail is older but still has good shape (kevlar). I am reluctant to keep
> spending money on an old sail but it is worth repairing if there is a good
> DIY solution for a non-sailmaker. I have watched some Youtube video on this
> but would appreciate comments from the list group.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Steve Hood
> S/V Diamond Girl
> C&C 34
> Lions Head ON
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Della Barba, Joe]

If you don't have one, do add a vacuum gauge. That will be good info. I pretty 
much wasted hours on my old carb before just getting a new one, but you may 
have a new one. Any way you can post a photo or video someplace?
Also - once again - there are a lot of smart people over on the Moyer forum.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sylvain 
Laplante
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

Hi,
   Typically timing should be set before you adjust the carb . One thing to 
note also is that with a new engine it is normal to have to adjust it again, as 
the rings seal better, internal resistance decrease ( after break-in ).

Make sure ALL the intake gaskets seal properly and are tightened to recommended 
torque, typically an erratic idle will be caused by a dirty idle circuit or, 
quite often, by an air leak ( shown sometimes when it runs better with choke on 
). There are different ways to trace an air leak ( vaporize gas, wd-40, ether ) 
around each joint between intake manifold and carb ), for that, ask Don Moyer 
about which fluid he recommends you to use.

On most carburetors, idle mixture screw should be adjusted when throttle is 
completely closed, no choke on, engine warm and properly timed. Of course 
valves should be adjusted within specs but I don't think you will need to go 
that far :-)

Sylvain
C&C27MkIII


From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
mailto:djhaug...@juno.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

I will look at the tube!  thanks...no one has brought that up yet and I never 
thought of it..

I have been playing with the idle mix screw It does have an effect but I still 
can't seem to get it to idle low enough

I'm kind of saving the timing for last.  I'm assuming Moyer set that precisely 
before it left their shop and I really don't want to mess with it yet.

The choke seems to want to be fully open.  I have a spare carburetor I rebuilt 
last year sitting in my toolbox.  I'm going to swap that out next.  That 
"should" eliminate clogged jets as a possible problem.

I just put the plugs in this season and gapped them to spec,  They are all a 
nice golden brown color.

Here is a link to the carb with the flame arrestor removed
http://sdrv.ms/14SwiMr

...and here is one of a the #1 spark plug
http://sdrv.ms/1eZpLVP

You can probably scroll around and see other photos and a couple of videos of 
the engine running.




-- Original Message --
From: "jtsails" mailto:jtsai...@gmail.com>>
To: mailto:md...@ca.inter.net>>, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 00:06:20 -0400

Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message -
From: "Michael Dean" mailto:md...@ca.inter.net>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


> Danny,
>
> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!)  Did it have any effect?  It may also be
> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees
> or
> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4.  Another thing to try is
> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments.  If it idles better then
> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
> lean at idle.
>
> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
> too much fuel is entering the carb.  Sometimes the float valve can be
> freed
> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the
> carb
> is empty.  Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
> moment or two.  The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the
> float
> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>
> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>
> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
> out the various jets with compressed air.
>
> Mike
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
> On Behalf Of
> djhaug...@juno.com
> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and
> It's
> getting better and better but I think It should be better still.  When I
> looked inside the carb.  It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>
> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner.  Although it is better I want to try a
> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>
> I've found the moyer 

Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs

[Sylvain Laplante]

Hi,
   On mine I have the square slugs, very easy to replace, the replacement nylon 
shackle has a small self-tapping screw, with some others you can use "whipping 
twine" ( is that the good word? ), waxed, ideally. About 10 loops and then 
finish with a few loops to tighten the joint between the slug and main.

Tie-wraps don't stand very well with UV ( black ones are better but ugly on a 
sail)

Sylvain
C&C27MkIII




 From: OldSteveH 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:44 AM
Subject: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs
 

On our recent sailing trip two of the plastic/nylon slugs broke and need to
be replaced.
I would appreciate comments from others on the possibility of doing this
ones self.

The slugs are wrapped through their slots with a piece of webbing material
which is stitched to the sail and is also melted or 'welded' to itself to
attach slug to sail luff.

The sail is older but still has good shape (kevlar). I am reluctant to keep
spending money on an old sail but it is worth repairing if there is a good
DIY solution for a non-sailmaker. I have watched some Youtube video on this
but would appreciate comments from the list group.

Thanks,


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON







___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Della Barba, Joe]

I have worked on a number of Bristols and they are well made seaworthy boats. 
As for centerline berths, I  like them when you have to get up and pee at 0130, 
but I also get annoyed every time a wave comes by and you roll out and land on 
your head. YMMV.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
Walter
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 10:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List moving from a C&C??

Greetings,

After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are considering 
moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier coastal/bluewater cruiser 
with more comfort, better tracking, more convenient sail-handling (in-mast or 
in-boom) and a master stateroom with a centerline berth (which pretty much 
requires we buy a center cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol 
yachts; they seem to meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 
47.7. Does anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we should 
consider?

Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a non-C&C 
topic.

sailind...@yahoo.com

Thank you,
Richard
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[j...@svpaws.net]

If you're going to that size why not consider some of the larger C&C Landfalls? 
Budget permitting you could also consider some of the later models.  My wife 
and I lived aboard a late 90's 51 for several years.  We ultimately sailed her 
to the Caribbean after adding in-boom furling.  She proved to be a very good 
offshore boat.  Not sure I'd want to do weeks on end offshore but certainly 
1,500 mile runs are doable.

Look carefully at any Bristol you consider - wide swings in quality and in 
general, most have not aged all that well (IMHO). You may also want to look at 
an older Hylas, etc.

John


Sent from my iPad

On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:59 AM, Richard Walter  wrote:

> Greetings,
> 
> After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are considering 
> moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier coastal/bluewater cruiser 
> with more comfort, better tracking, more convenient sail-handling (in-mast or 
> in-boom) and a master stateroom with a centerline berth (which pretty much 
> requires we buy a center cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol 
> yachts; they seem to meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 
> 47.7. Does anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
> 47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we should 
> consider?
> 
> Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a non-C&C 
> topic.
> 
> sailind...@yahoo.com
> 
> Thank you,
> Richard
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Michael Brown]

I would advise getting a professional rebuild done if the advice here does not 
help.

There are some other things you could try, such as spray or liquid cleaners, 
but the
residue will go through the engine. The Atomic 4 does not have high compression
or cylinder temperature so those chemicals are going to get to your exhaust hose
or possibly past the rings. Maybe not, but I would not risk it. It is easy to 
remove
the fuel pump water settling cup, partially fill it with carb cleaner, and then 
idle the
motor. That will clean the idle circuit reasonably well.

The chemicals used at a rebuild shop will clean all the gum and varnish off. 
A spray just is not strong enough and does not sit concentrated long enough.

A rebuild should also include adjusting the carb on a wet flow bench. The shop
will use the flow bench to set air/fuel mixture to spec usually at a few points,

1) on choke
2) idle
3) wide open throttle

They will also know if the carb is not adjusting correctly, something very hard 
to
guess at when trying it on a live engine.

The Zenith carb on Windburn was rebuilt by Carburetor Rebuilders Company Limited
in Toronto for about $200. They are at:

http://www.carbrebuilders.com/

Mike

C&C 30
Windburn

  

 
Message: 2 
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 20:48:23 -0400 
From: "Michael Dean"  
To:  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try. 
Message-ID: <013401ce9d3e$f98e2a60$ecaa7f20$@inter.net> 
Content-Type: text/plain;     charset="us-ascii" 
 
Danny, 
 
I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture 
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!)  Did it have any effect?  It may also be 
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or 
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4.  Another thing to try is 
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments.  If it idles better then 
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running 
lean at idle. 
 
Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle 
too much fuel is entering the carb.  Sometimes the float valve can be freed 
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb 
is empty.  Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a 
moment or two.  The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the float 
valve if it is a bit gummy. 
 
I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped. 
 
All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing 
out the various jets with compressed air. 
 
Mike 
 
-Original Message- 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com 
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild 
 
Hello all, 
 
I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and It's 
getting better and better but I think It should be better still.  When I 
looked inside the carb.  It was dirty and gritty...no good, 
 
I sprayed it all with carb cleaner.  Although it is better I want to try a 
rebuild and more aggressive cleaning. 
 
I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one 
 
for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping... 
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535 
 
It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it 
seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it. 
 
Is moyer really just price gouging?  
 
he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting 
you carb.  I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he is 
charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos...  I'll 
probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on 
the kit!  Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my 
business...  I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business... 
 
Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit? 
 
Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was buying 
the Moyer exchange engine.  So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to have 
a rebuilt one on standby... 
 
I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46  Moyer 
wants $270 
 
http://www.farmersserviceinc.com/marine.htm 
 
Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated!  I thought this could be 
good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL 
 
Danny 
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Josh Muckley]

If you are trying to clean the jets, you may find that the solvent is
making it through the jet but is probably not fully cleaning them.

I use a set of welding torch cleaning files to clean the jets.  Start small
and work up.  Mine was completely clogged shut.  I had to be careful to
feel for a change in the filing resistance as I went up in size.

The jet I pointed out in the video is just for idle fuel mix.  Almost all
carbs have something like it.  When it gets clogged up the engine starts to
die causing the governor to open the butterfly.  This sucks large surge of
fuel through the main jets which momentarily over speeds the engine.  And
the cycle repeats
Choking the engine reduces the airflow which helps reduce the surge of
fuel.  If choked just right the perfect amount of fuel is sipped in through
the main jet and the butterfly is held just slightly open by the governor.
Now problems will occur when you go to full throttle because the engine is
partially choked and not getting enough air.

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 8:32 AM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

> Josh,
>
> Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.
>
> I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
> Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400
>
> This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic
> Chinese knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.�
> Worth a try anyway.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>
> Josh
>
> --
> When privacy matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
>
>> Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
>> James
>> Delaney
>> C&C 38 MkII
>> Oriental, NC
>>
>> - Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
>>
>>
>> Danny,
>>>
>>> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
>>> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It may also
>>> be
>>> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees
>>> or
>>> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try
>>> is
>>> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better
>>> then
>>> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
>>> lean at idle.
>>>
>>> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at
>>> idle
>>> too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be
>>> freed
>>> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the
>>> carb
>>> is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
>>> moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the
>>> float
>>> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>>>
>>> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>>>
>>> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and
>>> blowing
>>> out the various jets with compressed air.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>>> djhaug...@juno.com
>>> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and
>>> It's
>>> getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
>>> looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>>>
>>> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try
>>> a
>>> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>>>
>>> I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this
>>> one
>>>
>>> for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
>>> http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
>>>
>>> It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts,
>>> specifically, it
>>> seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
>>>
>>> Is moyer really just price gouging?
>>>
>>> he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble
>>> shooting
>>> you carb. �I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he
>>> is
>>> charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos... �I'll
>>> probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
>>> the kit! �Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
>>> business... �I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
>>>
>>> Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?
>>>
>>> Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was
>>> buying
>>> the Moyer exchange engine. �So, I'll swap th

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Here is a link to a folder with tons of photos.  If you go to the end you see 
my latest photos and video of my carb, plugs and the engine running.  The 
newest video was take Sunday http://sdrv.ms/SFe8dh
-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:06:15 -0400


If you don’t have one, do add a vacuum gauge. That will be good info. I 
pretty much wasted hours on my old carb before just getting a new one, but you 
may have a new one. Any way you can post a photo or video someplace?
Also – once again – there are a lot of smart people over on the 
Moyer forum.
 
Joe Della Barba
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sylvain 
Laplante
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
Hi,
   Typically timing should be set before you adjust the carb . One thing to 
note also is that with a new engine it is normal to have to adjust it again, as 
the rings seal better, internal resistance decrease ( after break-in ).
 
Make sure ALL the intake gaskets seal properly and are tightened to recommended 
torque, typically an erratic idle will be caused by a dirty idle circuit or, 
quite often, by an air leak ( shown sometimes when it runs better with choke on 
). There are different ways to trace an air leak ( vaporize gas, wd-40, ether ) 
around each joint between intake manifold and carb ), for that, ask Don Moyer 
about which fluid he recommends you to use.
 
On most carburetors, idle mixture screw should be adjusted when throttle is 
completely closed, no choke on, engine warm and properly timed. Of course 
valves should be adjusted within specs but I don't think you will need to go 
that far :-)
 
Sylvain
C&C27MkIII
 
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

I will look at the tube!  thanks...no one has brought that up yet and I never 
thought of it..

I have been playing with the idle mix screw It does have an effect but I still 
can't seem to get it to idle low enough

I'm kind of saving the timing for last.  I'm assuming Moyer set that precisely 
before it left their shop and I really don't want to mess with it yet.

The choke seems to want to be fully open.  I have a spare carburetor I rebuilt 
last year sitting in my toolbox.  I'm going to swap that out next.  That 
"should" eliminate clogged jets as a possible problem.

I just put the plugs in this season and gapped them to spec,  They are all a 
nice golden brown color.

Here is a link to the carb with the flame arrestor removed
http://sdrv.ms/14SwiMr

...and here is one of a the #1 spark plug
http://sdrv.ms/1eZpLVP

You can probably scroll around and see other photos and a couple of videos of 
the engine running.




-- Original Message --
From: "jtsails" 
To: , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 00:06:20 -0400

Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


> Danny,
>
> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!)  Did it have any effect?  It may also be
> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees 
> or
> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4.  Another thing to try is
> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments.  If it idles better then
> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
> lean at idle.
>
> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
> too much fuel is entering the carb.  Sometimes the float valve can be 
> freed
> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the 
> carb
> is empty.  Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
> moment or two.  The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
> float
> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>
> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>
> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
> out the various jets with compressed air.
>
> Mike
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> djhaug...@juno.com
> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and 
> It's
> getting better and better but I think It should be better still.  When I
> looked inside the carb.  It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>
> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner.  Although it is better I want to try a
> rebuild and more a

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Bill Bina]

To clean a carb, sprays are pretty futile unless the contamination is 
very fresh. NAPA auto sells a gallon paint can of REAL solvents that 
comes complete with a strainer basket. remove anything from the carb 
that is not METAL, as this stuff will soften or melt all plastics and 
gaskets. Soak the carb, jets, and other metal parts for an hour or two 
and they will be CLEAN. The price will scare you, but you can clean many 
carbs with it. I've had situations where I cleaned a carb and the crap 
in the fuel tank re-clogged it almost immediately. It doesn't take much 
to plug a jet. A brand new carb won't run any better than a 30 year old 
one, if there is crap in the fuel. Off brand filters such as Fram, 
(especially Fram!) often supply their own contamination as they 
disintegrate.


Bill Bina

On 8/20/2013 10:08 AM, Michael Brown wrote:
I would advise getting a professional rebuild done if the advice here 
does not help.


There are some other things you could try, such as spray or liquid 
cleaners, but the
residue will go through the engine. The Atomic 4 does not have high 
compression
or cylinder temperature so those chemicals are going to get to your 
exhaust hose
or possibly past the rings. Maybe not, but I would not risk it. It is 
easy to remove
the fuel pump water settling cup, partially fill it with carb cleaner, 
and then idle the

motor. That will clean the idle circuit reasonably well.

The chemicals used at a rebuild shop will clean all the gum and 
varnish off.
A spray just is not strong enough and does not sit concentrated long 
enough.


A rebuild should also include adjusting the carb on a wet flow bench. 
The shop
will use the flow bench to set air/fuel mixture to spec usually at a 
few points,


1) on choke
2) idle
3) wide open throttle

They will also know if the carb is not adjusting correctly, something 
very hard to

guess at when trying it on a live engine.

The Zenith carb on Windburn was rebuilt by Carburetor Rebuilders 
Company Limited

in Toronto for about $200. They are at:

http://www.carbrebuilders.com/

Mike

C&C 30
Windburn




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[Frederick G Street]

If you're looking for a pretty much bullet-proof boat, how about the CSY44?  I 
chartered one in the BVI several years back; the owner showed me a hull core 
from installing a new transducer, and the darn thing was over an inch of solid 
glass.  Another owner of a charter CSY44 in Miami Beach told me about the night 
he was at anchorage in the Bahamas, and was T-boned by a sport boat roaring 
through the anchorage at high speed.  Little or nothing was left of the 
sportboat (drunken crew suffered casualties, including one death); the CSY got 
away with scuffed topsides.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 20, 2013, at 8:59 AM, Richard Walter  wrote:

> Greetings,
> 
> After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are considering 
> moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier coastal/bluewater cruiser 
> with more comfort, better tracking, more convenient sail-handling (in-mast or 
> in-boom) and a master stateroom with a centerline berth (which pretty much 
> requires we buy a center cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol 
> yachts; they seem to meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 
> 47.7. Does anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
> 47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we should 
> consider?
> 
> Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a non-C&C 
> topic.
> 
> sailind...@yahoo.com
> 
> Thank you,
> Richard
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[djhaug...@juno.com]

I run a racor water separating filter and then there is an inline filter that 
came with the engine between the pump and the carb.

I've seen that can of carb cleaner and was considering that.  for the rebuild 
on the current carb.  If you look at the photos, there is some grit and grime 
in the carb visible when the flame arrestor is removed...  I'm not sure what 
this indicates...  but, it did clean out of there pretty easily with the can of 
carb cleaner.


-- Original Message --
From: Bill Bina 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:22:03 -0400

To clean a carb, sprays are pretty futile unless the contamination is 
very fresh. NAPA auto sells a gallon paint can of REAL solvents that 
comes complete with a strainer basket. remove anything from the carb 
that is not METAL, as this stuff will soften or melt all plastics and 
gaskets. Soak the carb, jets, and other metal parts for an hour or two 
and they will be CLEAN. The price will scare you, but you can clean many 
carbs with it. I've had situations where I cleaned a carb and the crap 
in the fuel tank re-clogged it almost immediately. It doesn't take much 
to plug a jet. A brand new carb won't run any better than a 30 year old 
one, if there is crap in the fuel. Off brand filters such as Fram, 
(especially Fram!) often supply their own contamination as they 
disintegrate.

Bill Bina

On 8/20/2013 10:08 AM, Michael Brown wrote:
> I would advise getting a professional rebuild done if the advice here 
> does not help.
>
> There are some other things you could try, such as spray or liquid 
> cleaners, but the
> residue will go through the engine. The Atomic 4 does not have high 
> compression
> or cylinder temperature so those chemicals are going to get to your 
> exhaust hose
> or possibly past the rings. Maybe not, but I would not risk it. It is 
> easy to remove
> the fuel pump water settling cup, partially fill it with carb cleaner, 
> and then idle the
> motor. That will clean the idle circuit reasonably well.
>
> The chemicals used at a rebuild shop will clean all the gum and 
> varnish off.
> A spray just is not strong enough and does not sit concentrated long 
> enough.
>
> A rebuild should also include adjusting the carb on a wet flow bench. 
> The shop
> will use the flow bench to set air/fuel mixture to spec usually at a 
> few points,
>
> 1) on choke
> 2) idle
> 3) wide open throttle
>
> They will also know if the carb is not adjusting correctly, something 
> very hard to
> guess at when trying it on a live engine.
>
> The Zenith carb on Windburn was rebuilt by Carburetor Rebuilders 
> Company Limited
> in Toronto for about $200. They are at:
>
> http://www.carbrebuilders.com/
>
> Mike
>
> C&C 30
> Windburn
>


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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Bill Bina]

Caution. Jets are extremely precise little devices. Even a very tiny 
scratch inside will change its performance in a negative way. My basic 
rule is that if someone has inserted anything such as a guitar string or 
whatever into a jet at any time in an effort to unplug it, the jet is 
effectively ruined and should be replaced. If you need anything beyond 
solvent and compressed air to clean it, the jet is done. The only 
exception is if you are stranded somewhere and need to get home to 
replace the jet upon arrival. :-)


Bill Bina


On 8/20/2013 10:15 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:


If you are trying to clean the jets, you may find that the solvent is 
making it through the jet but is probably not fully cleaning them.


I use a set of welding torch cleaning files to clean the jets.  Start 
small and work up.  Mine was completely clogged shut.  I had to be 
careful to feel for a change in the filing resistance as I went up in 
size.


The jet I pointed out in the video is just for idle fuel mix.  Almost 
all carbs have something like it.  When it gets clogged up the engine 
starts to die causing the governor to open the butterfly.  This sucks 
large surge of fuel through the main jets which momentarily over 
speeds the engine.  And the cycle repeats
Choking the engine reduces the airflow which helps reduce the surge of 
fuel.  If choked just right the perfect amount of fuel is sipped in 
through the main jet and the butterfly is held just slightly open by 
the governor.  Now problems will occur when you go to full throttle 
because the engine is partially choked and not getting enough air.


Josh




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[Bill Bina]

  
  
CSY went out of business because it
  turned out they were selling the boats for less than they spent
  building them!
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 8/20/2013 10:31 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:


  
  If you're looking for a pretty much bullet-proof boat, how about
  the CSY44?  I chartered one in the BVI several years back; the
  owner showed me a hull core from installing a new transducer, and
  the darn thing was over an inch of solid glass.  Another owner of
  a charter CSY44 in Miami Beach told me about the night he was at
  anchorage in the Bahamas, and was T-boned by a sport boat roaring
  through the anchorage at high speed.  Little or nothing was left
  of the sportboat (drunken crew suffered casualties, including one
  death); the CSY got away with scuffed topsides.
  


  
  
  

  

  
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C
Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

  

  



  
  


  


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[Dennis C.]

I really like the Hylas center cockpits.  Halberg Rasseys are well made.

Dennis C.





>
> From: "j...@svpaws.net" 
>To: Richard Walter ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> 
>Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:08 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List moving from a C&C??
> 
>
>
>If you're going to that size why not consider some of the larger C&C 
>Landfalls? Budget permitting you could also consider some of the later models. 
> My wife and I lived aboard a late 90's 51 for several years.  We ultimately 
>sailed her to the Caribbean after adding in-boom furling.  She proved to be a 
>very good offshore boat.  Not sure I'd want to do weeks on end offshore but 
>certainly 1,500 mile runs are doable.
>
>
>Look carefully at any Bristol you consider - wide swings in quality and in 
>general, most have not aged all that well (IMHO). You may also want to look at 
>an older Hylas, etc.
>
>
>John
>
>
>
>Sent from my iPad
>
>On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:59 AM, Richard Walter  wrote:
>
>
>Greetings,
>>
>>
>>After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are considering 
>>moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier coastal/bluewater cruiser 
>>with more comfort, better tracking, more convenient sail-handling (in-mast or 
>>in-boom) and a master stateroom with a centerline berth (which pretty much 
>>requires we buy a center cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol 
>>yachts; they seem to meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 
>>47.7. Does anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
>>47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we should 
>>consider?
>>
>>
>>Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a non-C&C 
>>topic.
>>
>>
>>sailind...@yahoo.com
>>
>>
>>Thank you,
>>Richard
>___
>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>___
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>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List New sheets/halyards

[Gary Nylander]

Agree 100%. It is a lot easier to ask the non-regular crew to haul in the green 
line on the starboard winch than to ask them to haul in one of the five white 
ones. We are well color-coded on Penniless.

Gary
30-1
  - Original Message - 
  From: Indigo 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 7:09 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List New sheets/halyards


  Although there may be a price break in buying a spool of line, I would 
strongly recommend having different colors for different lines. I just sailed 
on a friends boat with many of the control lines the same - brother it was 
confusing - and I would say, potentially dangerous - especially if you don't 
have regular crew who know the location of each line.



  Jonathan

  Indigo - 35MkIII

  Southport CT




--

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cenel...@aol.com
  Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 5:37 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List New sheets/halyards



  My crew has convinced me that I need to replace my regular sheets and 
halyards--some have been spliced/end for ended, etc. and its been probably 5+ 
years that they have been in use. For convenience, I like to use the same line 
and color for my jib and main halyards and the jib sheets. The main sheet is 
probably OK but I think it is just something like Sta-Set. 



  I need something which will work on the Lewmar clutches on my C&C 36 XL/kcb 
Water Phantom so in spite of the increased strength of modern lines, I doubt I 
can go below 3/8" or 5/16" and still have the clutches usable.



  I thought I would ask the list for its opinion--I am thinking of something 
medium tech/price for club racing locally and of buying an entire spool of 
whatever I get if it saves me some money on $/foot.



  I have used the usual tricks to extend the life (end for ended, taken the 
covers off, used messenger lines to keep the exposed core hidden in the 
mast/boom, etc.) so what I am looking for is a good deal on some good, not 
professional, low stretch line. I now use (I am pretty sure) Endura Braid from 
NER and in spite of its 11,000 lbs breaking strength, I have had it break at 
least twice in use--probably because it had been worn at some points when it 
was in use. This line also 'hockles' easily and the cover is a little slippery.



  Of course it should have a reasonable 'hand' as well.



  Suggestions of line type and vendors are welcome. 



  Thanks,



  Charlie Nelson

  Water Phantom

  C&C 36 XL/kcb





  cenel...@aol.com



--


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Re: Stus-List New halyards

[djhaug...@juno.com]

I was trying to get cajun ropes to this for me but after a few emails and I 
sent them a link on the splicing...communication stopped...  I'm still using 
the old wire/rope halyards.  They are in good shape,  I was just hoping to get 
my main halyard back to the cockpit,  Of course, the lazy jacks make that an 
exercise in futility.  I'm thinking to take the advice of Eric Frank and get in 
the habit of pulling the lazy jacks up the the mast after I drop the sail.  Of 
course the downside to this is that someone needs to put it back before 
dropping the mainsail...

-- Original Message --
From: Steve Thomas 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New halyards
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 22:40:35 -0400


In all of the discussions about using high tech line for halyards over the 
years, there is one solution to the problem of the "hand" of the thinner lines 
that I don't recall being suggested. Why not use ordinary half inch or larger 
spliced polyester tails similar to the way that wire and polyester are spliced? 
That sort of splice is beyond my knowledge or skill, as is the wire to 
polyester splice for that matter, but there must be people who know how. It may 
not be possible for every combination, but there must be some products that are 
compatible. This combination would also solve some of the wear problems 
associated with the high tech lines, since the larger diameter polyester tails 
are quite durable and can be sized to be of adequate strength long after they 
get soft and fuzzy.  Steve ThomasC&C27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Della Barba, Joe]

I worked on a couple of Amel boats from France. Very easy to handle for a 
couple and they even have watertight doors.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 11:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List moving from a C&C??

I really like the Hylas center cockpits.  Halberg Rasseys are well made.

Dennis C.



From: "j...@svpaws.net" 
mailto:j...@svpaws.net>>
To: Richard Walter mailto:sailind...@yahoo.com>>; 
"cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List moving from a C&C??

If you're going to that size why not consider some of the larger C&C Landfalls? 
Budget permitting you could also consider some of the later models.  My wife 
and I lived aboard a late 90's 51 for several years.  We ultimately sailed her 
to the Caribbean after adding in-boom furling.  She proved to be a very good 
offshore boat.  Not sure I'd want to do weeks on end offshore but certainly 
1,500 mile runs are doable.

Look carefully at any Bristol you consider - wide swings in quality and in 
general, most have not aged all that well (IMHO). You may also want to look at 
an older Hylas, etc.

John


Sent from my iPad

On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:59 AM, Richard Walter 
mailto:sailind...@yahoo.com>> wrote:
Greetings,

After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are considering 
moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier coastal/bluewater cruiser 
with more comfort, better tracking, more convenient sail-handling (in-mast or 
in-boom) and a master stateroom with a centerline berth (which pretty much 
requires we buy a center cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol 
yachts; they seem to meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 
47.7. Does anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we should 
consider?

Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a non-C&C 
topic.

sailind...@yahoo.com

Thank you,
Richard
___
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___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Knowles Rich]

I was not aware that an Atomic 4 has a governor...? 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 11:15, Josh Muckley  wrote:

If you are trying to clean the jets, you may find that the solvent is making it 
through the jet but is probably not fully cleaning them.

I use a set of welding torch cleaning files to clean the jets.  Start small and 
work up.  Mine was completely clogged shut.  I had to be careful to feel for a 
change in the filing resistance as I went up in size. 

The jet I pointed out in the video is just for idle fuel mix.  Almost all carbs 
have something like it.  When it gets clogged up the engine starts to die 
causing the governor to open the butterfly.  This sucks large surge of fuel 
through the main jets which momentarily over speeds the engine.  And the cycle 
repeats
Choking the engine reduces the airflow which helps reduce the surge of fuel.  
If choked just right the perfect amount of fuel is sipped in through the main 
jet and the butterfly is held just slightly open by the governor.  Now problems 
will occur when you go to full throttle because the engine is partially choked 
and not getting enough air.

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com

On Aug 20, 2013 8:32 AM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:
> Josh,
>  
> Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.
>  
> I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!
>  
> Thanks,
> Danny
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
> Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400
> 
> This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic Chinese 
> knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� Worth a try 
> anyway.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
> 
> Josh
> 
> -- 
> When privacy matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> 
> On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
>> Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
>> James
>> Delaney
>> C&C 38 MkII
>> Oriental, NC
>> 
>> - Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
>> 
>> 
>>> Danny,
>>> 
>>> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
>>> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It may also be
>>> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
>>> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try is
>>> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better then
>>> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
>>> lean at idle.
>>> 
>>> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
>>> too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be freed
>>> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
>>> is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
>>> moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the float
>>> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>>> 
>>> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>>> 
>>> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
>>> out the various jets with compressed air.
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>>> djhaug...@juno.com
>>> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>>> 
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and It's
>>> getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
>>> looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>>> 
>>> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try a
>>> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>>> 
>>> I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one
>>> 
>>> for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
>>> http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
>>> 
>>> It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it
>>> seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
>>> 
>>> Is moyer really just price gouging?
>>> 
>>> he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
>>> you carb. �I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he is
>>> charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos... �I'll
>>> probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
>>> the kit! �Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
>>> business... �I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
>>> 
>>> Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?
>>> 
>>> Als

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Della Barba, Joe]

It does not.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

I was not aware that an Atomic 4 has a governor...?
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 11:15, Josh Muckley 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

If you are trying to clean the jets, you may find that the solvent is making it 
through the jet but is probably not fully cleaning them.

I use a set of welding torch cleaning files to clean the jets.  Start small and 
work up.  Mine was completely clogged shut.  I had to be careful to feel for a 
change in the filing resistance as I went up in size.

The jet I pointed out in the video is just for idle fuel mix.  Almost all carbs 
have something like it.  When it gets clogged up the engine starts to die 
causing the governor to open the butterfly.  This sucks large surge of fuel 
through the main jets which momentarily over speeds the engine.  And the cycle 
repeats
Choking the engine reduces the airflow which helps reduce the surge of fuel.  
If choked just right the perfect amount of fuel is sipped in through the main 
jet and the butterfly is held just slightly open by the governor.  Now problems 
will occur when you go to full throttle because the engine is partially choked 
and not getting enough air.

Josh

--
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 8:32 AM, "djhaug...@juno.com" 
mailto:djhaug...@juno.com>> wrote:
Josh,

Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.

I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!

Thanks,
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400

This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic Chinese 
knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� Worth a try 
anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Josh

--
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails" 
mailto:jtsai...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
mailto:md...@ca.inter.net>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

Danny,

I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try is
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better then
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
lean at idle.

Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be freed
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the float
valve if it is a bit gummy.

I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.

All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
out the various jets with compressed air.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

Hello all,

I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and It's
getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,

I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try a
rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.

I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one

for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535

It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it
seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.

Is moyer really just price gouging?

he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
you carb. �I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he is
charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos... �I'll
probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially 

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Knowles Rich]

That's what I thought...

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 12:50, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

It does not.
 
Joe Della Barba
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
I was not aware that an Atomic 4 has a governor...? 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 11:15, Josh Muckley  wrote:

If you are trying to clean the jets, you may find that the solvent is making it 
through the jet but is probably not fully cleaning them.

I use a set of welding torch cleaning files to clean the jets.  Start small and 
work up.  Mine was completely clogged shut.  I had to be careful to feel for a 
change in the filing resistance as I went up in size. 

The jet I pointed out in the video is just for idle fuel mix.  Almost all carbs 
have something like it.  When it gets clogged up the engine starts to die 
causing the governor to open the butterfly.  This sucks large surge of fuel 
through the main jets which momentarily over speeds the engine.  And the cycle 
repeats
Choking the engine reduces the airflow which helps reduce the surge of fuel.  
If choked just right the perfect amount of fuel is sipped in through the main 
jet and the butterfly is held just slightly open by the governor.  Now problems 
will occur when you go to full throttle because the engine is partially choked 
and not getting enough air.

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com

On Aug 20, 2013 8:32 AM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:
Josh,
 
Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.
 
I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!
 
Thanks,
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400

This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic Chinese 
knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� Worth a try 
anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com

On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


Danny,

I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try is
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better then
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
lean at idle.

Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be freed
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the float
valve if it is a bit gummy.

I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.

All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
out the various jets with compressed air.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

Hello all,

I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and It's
getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,

I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try a
rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.

I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one

for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535

It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, it
seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.

Is moyer really just price gouging?

he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
you carb. �I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he is
charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos... �I'll
probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
the kit! �Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
business... �I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...

Anyway, maybe this is a substand

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Josh Muckley]

Apologies for my ignorance.  I was speaking in general small engine terms.
Without a governor what is the feed back loop that prevents over speed and
under speed?  Many people mistakenly call rev/speed limiters governors and
visa/versa.

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 11:38 AM, "Knowles Rich"  wrote:

I was not aware that an Atomic 4 has a governor...?

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 11:15, Josh Muckley  wrote:

If you are trying to clean the jets, you may find that the solvent is
making it through the jet but is probably not fully cleaning them.

I use a set of welding torch cleaning files to clean the jets.  Start small
and work up.  Mine was completely clogged shut.  I had to be careful to
feel for a change in the filing resistance as I went up in size.

The jet I pointed out in the video is just for idle fuel mix.  Almost all
carbs have something like it.  When it gets clogged up the engine starts to
die causing the governor to open the butterfly.  This sucks large surge of
fuel through the main jets which momentarily over speeds the engine.  And
the cycle repeats
Choking the engine reduces the airflow which helps reduce the surge of
fuel.  If choked just right the perfect amount of fuel is sipped in through
the main jet and the butterfly is held just slightly open by the governor.
Now problems will occur when you go to full throttle because the engine is
partially choked and not getting enough air.

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 8:32 AM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

> Josh,
>
> Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.
>
> I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
> Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400
>
> This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic
> Chinese knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.�
> Worth a try anyway.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>
> Josh
>
> --
> When privacy matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
>
>> Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
>> James
>> Delaney
>> C&C 38 MkII
>> Oriental, NC
>>
>> - Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
>>
>>
>> Danny,
>>>
>>> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
>>> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It may also
>>> be
>>> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees
>>> or
>>> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try
>>> is
>>> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better
>>> then
>>> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
>>> lean at idle.
>>>
>>> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at
>>> idle
>>> too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be
>>> freed
>>> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the
>>> carb
>>> is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
>>> moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the
>>> float
>>> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>>>
>>> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>>>
>>> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and
>>> blowing
>>> out the various jets with compressed air.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>>> djhaug...@juno.com
>>> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and
>>> It's
>>> getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
>>> looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>>>
>>> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try
>>> a
>>> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>>>
>>> I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this
>>> one
>>>
>>> for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
>>> http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
>>>
>>> It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts,
>>> specifically, it
>>> seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
>>>
>>> Is moyer really just price gouging?
>>>
>>> he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble
>>> shooting
>>> you carb. �I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he
>>> 

Re: Stus-List New sheets/halyards

[Bill Bina]

  
  
My first "real" sailboat was a very
  battered wooden Flying Dutchman when I was about 14 or 15. Two
  friends and I pooled our money to buy it for $150. We didn't have
  much of a budget, and some of the rotten running rigging, out of
  necessity, was replaced with clothesline! If you are familiar with
  the FD, it was known as a spaghetti factory. There were piles of
  clothesline everywhere. Not easy to tell which was what. It sure
  was fun, though.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 8/20/2013 11:11 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:


  
  
  
  Agree 100%. It is a lot easier to ask the
  non-regular crew to haul in the green line on the starboard
  winch than to ask them to haul in one of the five white
  ones. We are well color-coded on Penniless.
   
  Gary
  30-1
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Robert Wooden]

I have a later model A-4, and had very good luck with the rebuild kit from
Moyer.  As I recall new jets were included.  Be careful as you remove them,
as I recall a deep well socket was used to avoid breakage.

I agree with others that anything beyond solvent (such as manually reaming
or cleaning the jets) will probably lead to other problems.  

Been there, done that, not going to do it again...  

Bob Wooden
Rhapsody 27-3


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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Della Barba, Joe]

There is none.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 12:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


Apologies for my ignorance.  I was speaking in general small engine terms.  
Without a governor what is the feed back loop that prevents over speed and 
under speed?  Many people mistakenly call rev/speed limiters governors and 
visa/versa.

Josh

--
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 11:38 AM, "Knowles Rich" 
mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:
I was not aware that an Atomic 4 has a governor...?
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 11:15, Josh Muckley 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

If you are trying to clean the jets, you may find that the solvent is making it 
through the jet but is probably not fully cleaning them.

I use a set of welding torch cleaning files to clean the jets.  Start small and 
work up.  Mine was completely clogged shut.  I had to be careful to feel for a 
change in the filing resistance as I went up in size.

The jet I pointed out in the video is just for idle fuel mix.  Almost all carbs 
have something like it.  When it gets clogged up the engine starts to die 
causing the governor to open the butterfly.  This sucks large surge of fuel 
through the main jets which momentarily over speeds the engine.  And the cycle 
repeats
Choking the engine reduces the airflow which helps reduce the surge of fuel.  
If choked just right the perfect amount of fuel is sipped in through the main 
jet and the butterfly is held just slightly open by the governor.  Now problems 
will occur when you go to full throttle because the engine is partially choked 
and not getting enough air.

Josh

--
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 8:32 AM, "djhaug...@juno.com" 
mailto:djhaug...@juno.com>> wrote:
Josh,

Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.

I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!

Thanks,
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400

This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic Chinese 
knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� Worth a try 
anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Josh

--
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails" 
mailto:jtsai...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

- Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
mailto:md...@ca.inter.net>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

Danny,

I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It may also be
worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try is
to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better then
something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
lean at idle.

Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be freed
up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the float
valve if it is a bit gummy.

I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.

All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
out the various jets with compressed air.

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild

Hello all,

I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and It's
getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,

I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try a
rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.

I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one

for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535

It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more p

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Sylvain Laplante]

I've always used round toothpicks to clean jets, also useful to remove 
pilot/air jets, spray carb cleaner several times per orifice, and better use an 
air compressor.

I still believe this is an air leak in the intake issue. A vacuum gauge reading 
without leak should show between 17 and 21 if I remember correctly ( with a 
steady needle ).

Sylvain
C&C27MkIII



 From: Robert Wooden 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 

I have a later model A-4, and had very good luck with the rebuild kit from
Moyer.  As I recall new jets were included.  Be careful as you remove them,
as I recall a deep well socket was used to avoid breakage.

I agree with others that anything beyond solvent (such as manually reaming
or cleaning the jets) will probably lead to other problems.  

Been there, done that, not going to do it again...  

Bob Wooden
Rhapsody 27-3


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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Knowles Rich]

Josh: Usually speed is a function of throttle. If more sophisticated control is 
needed, such as a generator that has to maintain a constant speed to keep the 
AC frequency constant, a governor of some sort will be added. Most marine gas 
propulsion engines do not have governors as the loading with a propellor is 
fairly constant. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 13:09, Josh Muckley  wrote:

Apologies for my ignorance.  I was speaking in general small engine terms.  
Without a governor what is the feed back loop that prevents over speed and 
under speed?  Many people mistakenly call rev/speed limiters governors and 
visa/versa. 

Josh


-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com

On Aug 20, 2013 11:38 AM, "Knowles Rich"  wrote:
I was not aware that an Atomic 4 has a governor...? 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 11:15, Josh Muckley  wrote:

If you are trying to clean the jets, you may find that the solvent is making it 
through the jet but is probably not fully cleaning them.

I use a set of welding torch cleaning files to clean the jets.  Start small and 
work up.  Mine was completely clogged shut.  I had to be careful to feel for a 
change in the filing resistance as I went up in size. 

The jet I pointed out in the video is just for idle fuel mix.  Almost all carbs 
have something like it.  When it gets clogged up the engine starts to die 
causing the governor to open the butterfly.  This sucks large surge of fuel 
through the main jets which momentarily over speeds the engine.  And the cycle 
repeats
Choking the engine reduces the airflow which helps reduce the surge of fuel.  
If choked just right the perfect amount of fuel is sipped in through the main 
jet and the butterfly is held just slightly open by the governor.  Now problems 
will occur when you go to full throttle because the engine is partially choked 
and not getting enough air.

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com

On Aug 20, 2013 8:32 AM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:
> Josh,
>  
> Pretty cool video,  I'll have to watch more closely from home.
>  
> I really appreciate the video and commend you for making and posting it!
>  
> Thanks,
> Danny
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
> Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:11:17 -0400
> 
> This video reviews some basic carburetor functions.� It is of a basic Chinese 
> knock off carb but maybe it hits on something you didn't know.� Worth a try 
> anyway.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaMqiHvWGec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
> 
> Josh
> 
> -- 
> When privacy matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> 
> On Aug 20, 2013 12:06 AM, "jtsails"  wrote:
>> Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
>> James
>> Delaney
>> C&C 38 MkII
>> Oriental, NC
>> 
>> - Original Message - From: "Michael Dean" 
>> To: 
>> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
>> 
>> 
>>> Danny,
>>> 
>>> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
>>> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!) �Did it have any effect? �It may also be
>>> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees or
>>> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4. �Another thing to try is
>>> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments. �If it idles better then
>>> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
>>> lean at idle.
>>> 
>>> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
>>> too much fuel is entering the carb. �Sometimes the float valve can be freed
>>> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the carb
>>> is empty. �Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
>>> moment or two. �The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the float
>>> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>>> 
>>> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>>> 
>>> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
>>> out the various jets with compressed air.
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>>> djhaug...@juno.com
>>> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>>> 
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb. �I'm having some idling issues and It's
>>> getting better and better but I think It should be better still. �When I
>>> looked inside the carb. �It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>>> 
>>> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner. �Although it is better I want to try a
>>> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>>> 
>>> I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this one
>>> 
>>> for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
>>> http:

Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Sylvan,I'm not really that well versed in carburetor repair.  What is the 
instrument for measuring vacuum and where does one attach such an instrument on 
the A4's carb? Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Sylvain Laplante 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:01:11 -0700 (PDT)


 I've always used round toothpicks to clean jets, also useful to remove 
pilot/air jets, spray carb cleaner several times per orifice, and better use an 
air compressor. I still believe this is an air leak in the intake issue. A 
vacuum gauge reading without leak should show between 17 and 21 if I remember 
correctly ( with a steady needle ). SylvainC&C27MkIII From: Robert Wooden 

 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 12:41 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 
 I have a later model A-4, and had very good luck with the rebuild kit from
Moyer.  As I recall new jets were included.  Be careful as you remove them,
as I recall a deep well socket was used to avoid breakage.

I agree with others that anything beyond solvent (such as manually reaming
or cleaning the jets) will probably lead to other problems.  

Been there, done that, not going to do it again...  

Bob Wooden
Rhapsody 27-3


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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Dennis C.]

Richard,

Don't let mainsail furling be a dealbreaker if you find a boat you really like. 
 You can easily install a regular roller furler vertically behind the mast.

If you're up for a project, there's a C&C Landfall 42 in Saint Lucie, FL for 
<$39K.  Looks like a LOT of work.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: Richard Walter 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:59 AM
>Subject: Stus-List moving from a C&C??
> 
>
>
>Greetings,
>
>
>After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are considering 
>moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier coastal/bluewater cruiser 
>with more comfort, better tracking, more convenient sail-handling (in-mast or 
>in-boom) and a master stateroom with a centerline berth (which pretty much 
>requires we buy a center cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol 
>yachts; they seem to meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 
>47.7. Does anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
>47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we should 
>consider?
>
>
>Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a non-C&C 
>topic.
>
>
>sailind...@yahoo.com
>
>
>Thank you,
>Richard
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>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>
>
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Joel Aronson]

Richard,

IMHO in mast furling should be avoided if you plan to sail upwind!  You
lose both sail area and the ability to shape the sail.  You also add weight
aloft.  Single line reefing is a much better option if you are concerned
about shortening sail short-handed.

The 37+ has a center aft cabin with a queen berth.

Joel


On Tue, Aug 20, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Richard,
>
> Don't let mainsail furling be a dealbreaker if you find a boat you really
> like.  You can easily install a regular roller furler vertically behind the
> mast.
>
> If you're up for a project, there's a C&C Landfall 42 in Saint Lucie, FL
> for <$39K.  Looks like a LOT of work.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>   --
>  *From:* Richard Walter 
> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:59 AM
> *Subject:* Stus-List moving from a C&C??
>
> Greetings,
>
> After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are
> considering moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier
> coastal/bluewater cruiser with more comfort, better tracking, more
> convenient sail-handling (in-mast or in-boom) and a master stateroom with a
> centerline berth (which pretty much requires we buy a center cockpit boat).
> We are looking closely at Bristol yachts; they seem to meet all of our
> criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 47.7. Does anyone have any experience
> with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 47.7? Any other Bristols we should
> consider? Any other boat brands we should consider?
>
> Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a
> non-C&C topic.
>
> sailind...@yahoo.com
>
> Thank you,
> Richard
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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[Edd Schillay]

Richard,

Not knowing what your budget is, I would suggest the Jeanneau Sun 
Odyssey 41DS. Looks like it would handle blue water very well, has a full size 
owner's suite without a center cockpit and looks to be an extraordinarily 
comfortable cruiser. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBCM_At2Vmw 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFN-4a0Dhps 

http://images.passionperformance.ca/photos/4/2/42647_2013_jeanneau_Voiliers_Sun_Odyssey_41_DS.jpg

http://static.jeanneau.com/medias/CMS/bateau/voilier/Sun-Odyssey-DS/41DS/photos/exterieur/L/boat-41DS_exterieur_20120725093434.jpg
boat-Sun-Odyssey-DS_plans_20120629121533.jpg 
http://www.jeanneau.com/boats/Sun_Odyssey_41DS.html 

As sold as I am on the C&C name, so far, if that day comes, it'll be a 
C&C 121 or this boat that will be the Enterprise-C. 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website



On Aug 20, 2013, at 2:26 PM, "Dennis C."  wrote:

> Richard,
> 
> Don't let mainsail furling be a dealbreaker if you find a boat you really 
> like.  You can easily install a regular roller furler vertically behind the 
> mast.
> 
> If you're up for a project, there's a C&C Landfall 42 in Saint Lucie, FL for 
> <$39K.  Looks like a LOT of work.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> From: Richard Walter 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:59 AM
> Subject: Stus-List moving from a C&C??
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are considering 
> moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier coastal/bluewater cruiser 
> with more comfort, better tracking, more convenient sail-handling (in-mast or 
> in-boom) and a master stateroom with a centerline berth (which pretty much 
> requires we buy a center cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol 
> yachts; they seem to meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 
> 47.7. Does anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
> 47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we should 
> consider?
> 
> Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a non-C&C 
> topic.
> 
> sailind...@yahoo.com
> 
> Thank you,
> Richard
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Della Barba, Joe]

There is a threaded hole in the manifold to attach a vacuum gauge. You can get 
them on FleaBay. Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Valve-Fuel-Pump-Pressure-Vacuum-Tester-Gauge-Test-Kit-Car-Truck-/170971391604?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item27ceb06674&vxp=mtr#ht_3186wt_1039

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYDRAULIC-LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0PSI-BTM-MNT-/360199753441?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53dd940ee1#ht_1871wt_911



Joe Della Barba
OTSO DCSI ADMB
SSA
410.966.7255

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 2:17 PM
To: sylvain_lapla...@yahoo.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

Sylvan,
I'm not really that well versed in carburetor repair.  What is the instrument 
for measuring vacuum and where does one attach such an instrument on the A4's 
carb?

Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Sylvain Laplante 
mailto:sylvain_lapla...@yahoo.ca>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:01:11 -0700 (PDT)

I've always used round toothpicks to clean jets, also useful to remove 
pilot/air jets, spray carb cleaner several times per orifice, and better use an 
air compressor.

I still believe this is an air leak in the intake issue. A vacuum gauge reading 
without leak should show between 17 and 21 if I remember correctly ( with a 
steady needle ).

Sylvain
C&C27MkIII

From: Robert Wooden 
mailto:rwoo...@savvyconsultants.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

I have a later model A-4, and had very good luck with the rebuild kit from
Moyer.  As I recall new jets were included.  Be careful as you remove them,
as I recall a deep well socket was used to avoid breakage.

I agree with others that anything beyond solvent (such as manually reaming
or cleaning the jets) will probably lead to other problems.

Been there, done that, not going to do it again...

Bob Wooden
Rhapsody 27-3


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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Josh Muckley]

Rich,

My Yanmar 3HM35F has a governor and it works exactly like all three of my
home generators and the one I've see on an old Lister diesel.  Basically
the throttle pulls in opposition to the governor.  When you set the idle
speed you are adjusting a screw to push or pull in opposition to the
governor and in favor of the throttle.

This is also similar to the set up found on the 3.5 megawatt diesels I have
at work.

The only engines I have experienced on which I can't recall any governors
is my lawn equipment.  I just assumed I hadn't found it yet ;-)

I just can't figure out any other way for the engine to automatically cut
fuel as it over speeds in neutral.

Josh

-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 1:44 PM, "Knowles Rich"  wrote:
>
> Josh: Usually speed is a function of throttle. If more sophisticated
control is needed, such as a generator that has to maintain a constant
speed to keep the AC frequency constant, a governor of some sort will be
added. Most marine gas propulsion engines do not have governors as the
loading with a propellor is fairly constant.
>
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-08-20, at 13:09, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Apologies for my ignorance.  I was speaking in general small engine
terms.  Without a governor what is the feed back loop that prevents over
speed and under speed?  Many people mistakenly call rev/speed limiters
governors and visa/versa.
>
> Josh
>
> --
> When privacy matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>
> On Aug 20, 2013 11:38 AM, "Knowles Rich"  wrote:
>>
>> I was not aware that an Atomic 4 has a governor...?
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Knowles Rich]

Josh. That's correct,  you are talking about Diesel engines. The Atomic 4 is a 
gasoline engine with a simple throttle governing the carb throttle. Your lawn 
equipment likely will have a spring loaded air vane sitting in the air stream 
produced by the flywheel fan that will moderate the throttle butterfly 
according to load.  

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 16:37, Josh Muckley  wrote:

Rich,

My Yanmar 3HM35F has a governor and it works exactly like all three of my home 
generators and the one I've see on an old Lister diesel.  Basically the 
throttle pulls in opposition to the governor.  When you set the idle speed you 
are adjusting a screw to push or pull in opposition to the governor and in 
favor of the throttle.

This is also similar to the set up found on the 3.5 megawatt diesels I have at 
work.

EThe only engines I have experienced on which I can't recall any governors is 
my lawn equipment.  I just assumed I hadn't found it yet ;-)

I just can't figure out any other way for the engine to automatically cut fuel 
as it over speeds in neutral.

Josh


-- 
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 1:44 PM, "Knowles Rich"  wrote:
>
> Josh: Usually speed is a function of throttle. If more sophisticated control 
> is needed, such as a generator that has to maintain a constant speed to keep 
> the AC frequency constant, a governor of some sort will be added. Most marine 
> gas propulsion engines do not have governors as the loading with a propellor 
> is fairly constant. 
>
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-08-20, at 13:09, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Apologies for my ignorance.  I was speaking in general small engine terms.  
> Without a governor what is the feed back loop that prevents over speed and 
> under speed?  Many people mistakenly call rev/speed limiters governors and 
> visa/versa. 
>
> Josh
>
> -- 
> When privacy matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>
> On Aug 20, 2013 11:38 AM, "Knowles Rich"  wrote:
>>
>> I was not aware that an Atomic 4 has a governor...? 
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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.

[Della Barba, Joe]

The A 4 *will* overspeed in neutral.  My old runabout had no kind of governor 
on it. The old Hatteras I used to run with twin Chrysler V8s had no governors 
either. My old Porsche had none.
This idea was by no means common back in the day on gasoline engines.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


Rich,

My Yanmar 3HM35F has a governor and it works exactly like all three of my home 
generators and the one I've see on an old Lister diesel.  Basically the 
throttle pulls in opposition to the governor.  When you set the idle speed you 
are adjusting a screw to push or pull in opposition to the governor and in 
favor of the throttle.

This is also similar to the set up found on the 3.5 megawatt diesels I have at 
work.

The only engines I have experienced on which I can't recall any governors is my 
lawn equipment.  I just assumed I hadn't found it yet ;-)

I just can't figure out any other way for the engine to automatically cut fuel 
as it over speeds in neutral.

Josh

--
When privacy matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On Aug 20, 2013 1:44 PM, "Knowles Rich" 
mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:
>
> Josh: Usually speed is a function of throttle. If more sophisticated control 
> is needed, such as a generator that has to maintain a constant speed to keep 
> the AC frequency constant, a governor of some sort will be added. Most marine 
> gas propulsion engines do not have governors as the loading with a propellor 
> is fairly constant.
>
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-08-20, at 13:09, Josh Muckley 
> mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Apologies for my ignorance.  I was speaking in general small engine terms.  
> Without a governor what is the feed back loop that prevents over speed and 
> under speed?  Many people mistakenly call rev/speed limiters governors and 
> visa/versa.
>
> Josh
>
> --
> When privacy matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>
> On Aug 20, 2013 11:38 AM, "Knowles Rich" 
> mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>> wrote:
>>
>> I was not aware that an Atomic 4 has a governor...?
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Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs

[Chuck S]

Try, 
I added grommets and slides to our mainsail 8 years ago. I chose the plastic 
U-shaped shackles with small screws. Work well. 


http://www.sailrite.com/Slugs-Slides-Shackles-Selection-Installation-and-Positioning-Instructions
 


Check out page 163, 
http://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Interactive/2013%20Digital%20Catalog/index.html 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Knowles Rich"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:55:24 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs 

Nylon tie wraps work well. 

Rich Knowles 
Indigo. LF38 
Halifax 

On 2013-08-20, at 10:44, OldSteveH  wrote: 

On our recent sailing trip two of the plastic/nylon slugs broke and need to 
be replaced. 
I would appreciate comments from others on the possibility of doing this 
ones self. 

The slugs are wrapped through their slots with a piece of webbing material 
which is stitched to the sail and is also melted or 'welded' to itself to 
attach slug to sail luff. 

The sail is older but still has good shape (kevlar). I am reluctant to keep 
spending money on an old sail but it is worth repairing if there is a good 
DIY solution for a non-sailmaker. I have watched some Youtube video on this 
but would appreciate comments from the list group. 

Thanks, 


Steve Hood 
S/V Diamond Girl 
C&C 34 
Lions Head ON 







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Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs

[Danny Haughey]

I bought a super furl furler for my oday and it came with newer slugs for the 
new track.  I had to take the old slides off and are the new ons on by hand 
using the webbing strips supplied with the kit.  I used a leather hand 
protector thing and a line, also supplied, and a heavy needle.  It was far from 
perfect but it worked perfectly.


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Chuck S  
Date: 08/20/2013  7:44 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs 
 
Try,
I added grommets and slides to our mainsail 8 years ago.  I chose the plastic 
U-shaped shackles with small screws.  Work well.


http://www.sailrite.com/Slugs-Slides-Shackles-Selection-Installation-and-Positioning-Instructions


Check out page 163,
http://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Interactive/2013%20Digital%20Catalog/index.html

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
From: "Knowles Rich" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:55:24 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs

Nylon tie wraps work well. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-20, at 10:44, OldSteveH  wrote:

On our recent sailing trip two of the plastic/nylon slugs broke and need to
be replaced.
I would appreciate comments from others on the possibility of doing this
ones self.

The slugs are wrapped through their slots with a piece of webbing material
which is stitched to the sail and is also melted or 'welded' to itself to
attach slug to sail luff.

The sail is older but still has good shape (kevlar). I am reluctant to keep
spending money on an old sail but it is worth repairing if there is a good
DIY solution for a non-sailmaker. I have watched some Youtube video on this
but would appreciate comments from the list group.

Thanks,


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON







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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Robert Abbott]

Richard:

I have absolutely no experience with Bristol yachts...but I will share 
this one storya few weeks back there was a Bristol 41 (I believe it 
was a 41) here boat now sold and moved out of Halifax.


In light to medium to air, a Mirage 24 out sailed the Bristol 41.   
That's all I have to say!


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2013/08/20 10:59 AM, Richard Walter wrote:

Greetings,

After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are 
considering moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier 
coastal/bluewater cruiser with more comfort, better tracking, more 
convenient sail-handling (in-mast or in-boom) and a master stateroom 
with a centerline berth (which pretty much requires we buy a center 
cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol yachts; they seem to 
meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 47.7. Does 
anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we 
should consider?


Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a 
non-C&C topic.


sailind...@yahoo.com

Thank you,
Richard


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Stus-List Fw: Boat options - was Re: C&C 29 in Portsmouth

[Persuasion]

Try 2 adults and 4 kids under 10 on/in a Helsun 22 poptop.  At night all of 
the bags of clothing and cooler went to the cockpit.  Daytime reverse the 
process.  If I recall that little piece of heaven lasted 1 week.



Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

-Original Message- 
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar

Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 12:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boat options - was Re: C&C 29 in Portsmouth


Thanks for a all the boat options! I was away over the weekend - took
the kids sailing overnight (yes - I definitely need a larger boat 4
kids and one adult wedged into a Mirage 24 with 5' of headroom -- 
weather was great, but sleeping accommodations very restrictive!)


I like the look of the O'day.  The Pearson, meh..  I'd rather have wheel
steering (too much having to ask people to move so I can tack my current
tiller boat - plus the wheel for me feels like a big boat, the tiller is
from my dinghy racing days)
Also - without really knowing much, I prefer the look and feel of the
80's boats (nicer lines, better thinking in the interior layout) rather
than the 70's.
Can't say I'm willing to look at the Buccaneer or the Lancer - as
someone said to me earlier on this list - buy a boat that is "the
prettiest in the mooring field" -- those ones just don't get me anywhere
near there!
Having posted to the list I'm getting some additional emails - I'm not
too familiar with the Viking 33, I'll have to look at that. Plus a note
that a C&C 29 Mk 1 is for sale locally for an excellent price (but the
online reviews and the designer comments from the CNCphotoalbum are
rather negative)

I'm hoping to get someone to look at the C&C 29 mk2 in Maine - the price
still seems good to me, assuming it's in good shape.

Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 16/08/2013 9:30 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:

what do you think about a pearson 30 for $4000?
These are nice boats, I looked at few of them during my search.  Still on
a tiller which, isn't necessarily a bad thing...
http://southcoast.craigslist.org/boa/3944986022.html


-- Original Message --
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 in Portsmouth
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 01:12:51 -0300


Andrew,
I've been doing my best to look at boats down in Maine, Mass and RI - the
bigger boats show up on yachtworld, but the smaller/less expensive boats
don't seem to show up anywhere consistent (I regularly look at
sailboatlistings and try to search Craigslist).

Hard to get a good handle on boats at a distance, and harder still to show
up hoping to sail one home!  If you see a nice boat let me know. I'm
interested!  Still looking 29-32 range. Sailing it back sounds like fun.

Failing that, I'm looking locally and I'm going to see if I can get
someone to check out that 29 in Maine - if I can find a trailer to haul it
back on it is way cheaper than similar looking condition boats here.

Mark



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[Chuck S]

In light wind , a 21 ft Viper 640 led the fleet and beat a C&C 33 MkII, my 34R, 
a 37+, and a fleet of other boats. They advertise Vipers as "35 ft speed in 21 
ft trailerable boat". 

The Bristol 43.3 has a PHRF of 117 while the Bristol 47.7 has a PHRF of 111, 
not bad for centerboard cruisers. 

Ted Hood also designed for Gulfstar and Little Harbor . 

My favorite cruising offshore designs are Hanse for their self tacking jib and 
maybe Oyster for there breathtaking lines 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Robert Abbott"  
To: "Richard Walter" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:00:13 PM 
Subject: Stus-List moving from a C&C?? 


Richard: 

I have absolutely no experience with Bristol yachts...but I will share this one 
storya few weeks back there was a Bristol 41 (I believe it was a 41) here 
boat now sold and moved out of Halifax. 

In light to medium to air, a Mirage 24 out sailed the Bristol 41. That's all I 
have to say! 

Bob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 




On 2013/08/20 10:59 AM, Richard Walter wrote: 




Greetings, 


After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are considering 
moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier coastal/bluewater cruiser 
with more comfort, better tracking, more convenient sail-handling (in-mast or 
in-boom) and a master stateroom with a centerline berth (which pretty much 
requires we buy a center cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol 
yachts; they seem to meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 
47.7. Does anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and 
47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we should 
consider? 


Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a non-C&C 
topic. 


sailind...@yahoo.com 


Thank you, 
Richard 

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[Colin Kilgour]

I've got a lot of sea miles on my Gulfstar 50 and there aren't many
boats I'd trade for.  (Caveat: if my budget was over $600k, there are
quite a few boats I'd trade for) (btw- you've been on my boat, don't
forget)

I've done ocean passages on some pretty nice (and expensive) boats
that I wouldn't trade with, including: Hallberg Rassy 49, Little
Harbor 54, Shannon 46.All nice boats, but 3-6 times the price of
mine, and no more comfortable or speedy at sea and not as comfy at
anchor.

That said, the Gulfstar fleet is getting pretty old and many of them
have a lot of miles on them so it's hard to find a decent one at a
good price.

My thoughts on some of the other boats mentioned:

Amel - great build quality; ugly (imo); no ventilation (so you're
using A/C at anchor).

Hylas - their spade rudders have a habit of falling to the ocean
floor.  Not sure why, but I've seen it more than once.

41DS - Nice boat.  Probably not super comfy at sea due to the plumb
bow.  Also, those big windows scare me at sea. (I've spent some time
on the 54DS and it's pretty nice)

Centreline queen V-berths - great at anchor.  Crappy at sea.

Landfall 43 - low coamings in cockpit will kill your back.

Landfall 48 - I like a lot and might have bought one if I didn't find
Bojangles.  Like the hard dodger and pilothouse.

My $0.02.

Happy hunting.

Cheers
Colin


On 8/20/13, Robert Abbott  wrote:
> Richard:
>
> I have absolutely no experience with Bristol yachts...but I will share
> this one storya few weeks back there was a Bristol 41 (I believe it
> was a 41) here boat now sold and moved out of Halifax.
>
> In light to medium to air, a Mirage 24 out sailed the Bristol 41.
> That's all I have to say!
>
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> On 2013/08/20 10:59 AM, Richard Walter wrote:
>> Greetings,
>>
>> After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are
>> considering moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier
>> coastal/bluewater cruiser with more comfort, better tracking, more
>> convenient sail-handling (in-mast or in-boom) and a master stateroom
>> with a centerline berth (which pretty much requires we buy a center
>> cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol yachts; they seem to
>> meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 47.7. Does
>> anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and
>> 47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we
>> should consider?
>>
>> Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a
>> non-C&C topic.
>>
>> sailind...@yahoo.com
>>
>> Thank you,
>> Richard
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>

-- 
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[j...@svpaws.net]

Interesting comment on the Hylas, agree on the Amel.

One thing to keep in mind is that layout options change significantly once you 
get into the upper 40's. You may want to consider the "Pullman" berth which 
gives you some of the advantages of a more secure sleeping arrangement underway 
(at least on one tack) with many of the benefits of an island berth.

John


Sent from my iPad

On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:59 PM, Colin Kilgour  wrote:

> I've got a lot of sea miles on my Gulfstar 50 and there aren't many
> boats I'd trade for.  (Caveat: if my budget was over $600k, there are
> quite a few boats I'd trade for) (btw- you've been on my boat, don't
> forget)
> 
> I've done ocean passages on some pretty nice (and expensive) boats
> that I wouldn't trade with, including: Hallberg Rassy 49, Little
> Harbor 54, Shannon 46.All nice boats, but 3-6 times the price of
> mine, and no more comfortable or speedy at sea and not as comfy at
> anchor.
> 
> That said, the Gulfstar fleet is getting pretty old and many of them
> have a lot of miles on them so it's hard to find a decent one at a
> good price.
> 
> My thoughts on some of the other boats mentioned:
> 
> Amel - great build quality; ugly (imo); no ventilation (so you're
> using A/C at anchor).
> 
> Hylas - their spade rudders have a habit of falling to the ocean
> floor.  Not sure why, but I've seen it more than once.
> 
> 41DS - Nice boat.  Probably not super comfy at sea due to the plumb
> bow.  Also, those big windows scare me at sea. (I've spent some time
> on the 54DS and it's pretty nice)
> 
> Centreline queen V-berths - great at anchor.  Crappy at sea.
> 
> Landfall 43 - low coamings in cockpit will kill your back.
> 
> Landfall 48 - I like a lot and might have bought one if I didn't find
> Bojangles.  Like the hard dodger and pilothouse.
> 
> My $0.02.
> 
> Happy hunting.
> 
> Cheers
> Colin
> 
> 
> On 8/20/13, Robert Abbott  wrote:
>> Richard:
>> 
>> I have absolutely no experience with Bristol yachts...but I will share
>> this one storya few weeks back there was a Bristol 41 (I believe it
>> was a 41) here boat now sold and moved out of Halifax.
>> 
>> In light to medium to air, a Mirage 24 out sailed the Bristol 41.
>> That's all I have to say!
>> 
>> Bob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 2013/08/20 10:59 AM, Richard Walter wrote:
>>> Greetings,
>>> 
>>> After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are
>>> considering moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier
>>> coastal/bluewater cruiser with more comfort, better tracking, more
>>> convenient sail-handling (in-mast or in-boom) and a master stateroom
>>> with a centerline berth (which pretty much requires we buy a center
>>> cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol yachts; they seem to
>>> meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 47.7. Does
>>> anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and
>>> 47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we
>>> should consider?
>>> 
>>> Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a
>>> non-C&C topic.
>>> 
>>> sailind...@yahoo.com
>>> 
>>> Thank you,
>>> Richard
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
> 
> -- 
> Sent from my mobile device
> 
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[Dave Godwin]

I'd put in my vote for a Pullman berth boat but they don't seem to be very 
widely available. Works pretty well underway and very well at anchor. The two 
boats that I've spent offshore time on that  had them were a Passport 43 and 
interestingly, an Oyster 48 Lightwave (Carl Schumacher design) center cockpit 
that had a Pullman berth in the aft/stateroom cabin.

If I were upgrading I would be looking for that setup.

My $.02.

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Aug 20, 2013, at 10:29 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:

> Interesting comment on the Hylas, agree on the Amel.
> 
> One thing to keep in mind is that layout options change significantly once 
> you get into the upper 40's. You may want to consider the "Pullman" berth 
> which gives you some of the advantages of a more secure sleeping arrangement 
> underway (at least on one tack) with many of the benefits of an island berth.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:59 PM, Colin Kilgour  wrote:
> 
>> I've got a lot of sea miles on my Gulfstar 50 and there aren't many
>> boats I'd trade for.  (Caveat: if my budget was over $600k, there are
>> quite a few boats I'd trade for) (btw- you've been on my boat, don't
>> forget)
>> 
>> I've done ocean passages on some pretty nice (and expensive) boats
>> that I wouldn't trade with, including: Hallberg Rassy 49, Little
>> Harbor 54, Shannon 46.All nice boats, but 3-6 times the price of
>> mine, and no more comfortable or speedy at sea and not as comfy at
>> anchor.
>> 
>> That said, the Gulfstar fleet is getting pretty old and many of them
>> have a lot of miles on them so it's hard to find a decent one at a
>> good price.
>> 
>> My thoughts on some of the other boats mentioned:
>> 
>> Amel - great build quality; ugly (imo); no ventilation (so you're
>> using A/C at anchor).
>> 
>> Hylas - their spade rudders have a habit of falling to the ocean
>> floor.  Not sure why, but I've seen it more than once.
>> 
>> 41DS - Nice boat.  Probably not super comfy at sea due to the plumb
>> bow.  Also, those big windows scare me at sea. (I've spent some time
>> on the 54DS and it's pretty nice)
>> 
>> Centreline queen V-berths - great at anchor.  Crappy at sea.
>> 
>> Landfall 43 - low coamings in cockpit will kill your back.
>> 
>> Landfall 48 - I like a lot and might have bought one if I didn't find
>> Bojangles.  Like the hard dodger and pilothouse.
>> 
>> My $0.02.
>> 
>> Happy hunting.
>> 
>> Cheers
>> Colin
>> 
>> 
>> On 8/20/13, Robert Abbott  wrote:
>>> Richard:
>>> 
>>> I have absolutely no experience with Bristol yachts...but I will share
>>> this one storya few weeks back there was a Bristol 41 (I believe it
>>> was a 41) here boat now sold and moved out of Halifax.
>>> 
>>> In light to medium to air, a Mirage 24 out sailed the Bristol 41.
>>> That's all I have to say!
>>> 
>>> Bob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 2013/08/20 10:59 AM, Richard Walter wrote:
 Greetings,
 
 After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are
 considering moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier
 coastal/bluewater cruiser with more comfort, better tracking, more
 convenient sail-handling (in-mast or in-boom) and a master stateroom
 with a centerline berth (which pretty much requires we buy a center
 cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol yachts; they seem to
 meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 47.7. Does
 anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and
 47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we
 should consider?
 
 Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a
 non-C&C topic.
 
 sailind...@yahoo.com
 
 Thank you,
 Richard
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> 
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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[Colin Kilgour]

In the 2006 Caribbean 1500 and ARC rallies, 3 Hylas 54's suffered
rudder failure at sea.  A buddy of mine was on one of them and got to
practice his emergency steering skills all the way to Tortola.  No fun
in that.

Google Hylas 54 Rudder Failure and you'll see lots of info on it.

Then make your own decision as to whether that's a boat you want to own
I'll stick to my skeg hung rudder.

Cheers
Colin


On 8/20/13, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> I'd put in my vote for a Pullman berth boat but they don't seem to be very
> widely available. Works pretty well underway and very well at anchor. The
> two boats that I've spent offshore time on that  had them were a Passport 43
> and interestingly, an Oyster 48 Lightwave (Carl Schumacher design) center
> cockpit that had a Pullman berth in the aft/stateroom cabin.
>
> If I were upgrading I would be looking for that setup.
>
> My $.02.
>
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>
> On Aug 20, 2013, at 10:29 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:
>
>> Interesting comment on the Hylas, agree on the Amel.
>>
>> One thing to keep in mind is that layout options change significantly once
>> you get into the upper 40's. You may want to consider the "Pullman" berth
>> which gives you some of the advantages of a more secure sleeping
>> arrangement underway (at least on one tack) with many of the benefits of
>> an island berth.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:59 PM, Colin Kilgour 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I've got a lot of sea miles on my Gulfstar 50 and there aren't many
>>> boats I'd trade for.  (Caveat: if my budget was over $600k, there are
>>> quite a few boats I'd trade for) (btw- you've been on my boat, don't
>>> forget)
>>>
>>> I've done ocean passages on some pretty nice (and expensive) boats
>>> that I wouldn't trade with, including: Hallberg Rassy 49, Little
>>> Harbor 54, Shannon 46.All nice boats, but 3-6 times the price of
>>> mine, and no more comfortable or speedy at sea and not as comfy at
>>> anchor.
>>>
>>> That said, the Gulfstar fleet is getting pretty old and many of them
>>> have a lot of miles on them so it's hard to find a decent one at a
>>> good price.
>>>
>>> My thoughts on some of the other boats mentioned:
>>>
>>> Amel - great build quality; ugly (imo); no ventilation (so you're
>>> using A/C at anchor).
>>>
>>> Hylas - their spade rudders have a habit of falling to the ocean
>>> floor.  Not sure why, but I've seen it more than once.
>>>
>>> 41DS - Nice boat.  Probably not super comfy at sea due to the plumb
>>> bow.  Also, those big windows scare me at sea. (I've spent some time
>>> on the 54DS and it's pretty nice)
>>>
>>> Centreline queen V-berths - great at anchor.  Crappy at sea.
>>>
>>> Landfall 43 - low coamings in cockpit will kill your back.
>>>
>>> Landfall 48 - I like a lot and might have bought one if I didn't find
>>> Bojangles.  Like the hard dodger and pilothouse.
>>>
>>> My $0.02.
>>>
>>> Happy hunting.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Colin
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/20/13, Robert Abbott  wrote:
 Richard:

 I have absolutely no experience with Bristol yachts...but I will share
 this one storya few weeks back there was a Bristol 41 (I believe it
 was a 41) here boat now sold and moved out of Halifax.

 In light to medium to air, a Mirage 24 out sailed the Bristol 41.
 That's all I have to say!

 Bob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.




 On 2013/08/20 10:59 AM, Richard Walter wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are
> considering moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier
> coastal/bluewater cruiser with more comfort, better tracking, more
> convenient sail-handling (in-mast or in-boom) and a master stateroom
> with a centerline berth (which pretty much requires we buy a center
> cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol yachts; they seem to
> meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 47.7. Does
> anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and
> 47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we
> should consider?
>
> Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a
> non-C&C topic.
>
> sailind...@yahoo.com
>
> Thank you,
> Richard
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


>>>
>>> --
>>> Sent from my mobile device
>>>
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>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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> This List is provided by the