I run a racor water separating filter and then there is an inline filter that 
came with the engine between the pump and the carb.

I've seen that can of carb cleaner and was considering that.  for the rebuild 
on the current carb.  If you look at the photos, there is some grit and grime 
in the carb visible when the flame arrestor is removed...  I'm not sure what 
this indicates...  but, it did clean out of there pretty easily with the can of 
carb cleaner.


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Bill Bina <billb...@sbcglobal.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:22:03 -0400

To clean a carb, sprays are pretty futile unless the contamination is 
very fresh. NAPA auto sells a gallon paint can of REAL solvents that 
comes complete with a strainer basket. remove anything from the carb 
that is not METAL, as this stuff will soften or melt all plastics and 
gaskets. Soak the carb, jets, and other metal parts for an hour or two 
and they will be CLEAN. The price will scare you, but you can clean many 
carbs with it. I've had situations where I cleaned a carb and the crap 
in the fuel tank re-clogged it almost immediately. It doesn't take much 
to plug a jet. A brand new carb won't run any better than a 30 year old 
one, if there is crap in the fuel. Off brand filters such as Fram, 
(especially Fram!) often supply their own contamination as they 
disintegrate.

Bill Bina

On 8/20/2013 10:08 AM, Michael Brown wrote:
> I would advise getting a professional rebuild done if the advice here 
> does not help.
>
> There are some other things you could try, such as spray or liquid 
> cleaners, but the
> residue will go through the engine. The Atomic 4 does not have high 
> compression
> or cylinder temperature so those chemicals are going to get to your 
> exhaust hose
> or possibly past the rings. Maybe not, but I would not risk it. It is 
> easy to remove
> the fuel pump water settling cup, partially fill it with carb cleaner, 
> and then idle the
> motor. That will clean the idle circuit reasonably well.
>
> The chemicals used at a rebuild shop will clean all the gum and 
> varnish off.
> A spray just is not strong enough and does not sit concentrated long 
> enough.
>
> A rebuild should also include adjusting the carb on a wet flow bench. 
> The shop
> will use the flow bench to set air/fuel mixture to spec usually at a 
> few points,
>
> 1) on choke
> 2) idle
> 3) wide open throttle
>
> They will also know if the carb is not adjusting correctly, something 
> very hard to
> guess at when trying it on a live engine.
>
> The Zenith carb on Windburn was rebuilt by Carburetor Rebuilders 
> Company Limited
> in Toronto for about $200. They are at:
>
> http://www.carbrebuilders.com/
>
> Mike
>
> C&C 30
> Windburn
>


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