Hi,
   Typically timing should be set before you adjust the carb . One thing to 
note also is that with a new engine it is normal to have to adjust it again, as 
the rings seal better, internal resistance decrease ( after break-in ).

Make sure ALL the intake gaskets seal properly and are tightened to recommended 
torque, typically an erratic idle will be caused by a dirty idle circuit or, 
quite often, by an air leak ( shown sometimes when it runs better with choke on 
). There are different ways to trace an air leak ( vaporize gas, wd-40, ether ) 
around each joint between intake manifold and carb ), for that, ask Don Moyer 
about which fluid he recommends you to use.

On most carburetors, idle mixture screw should be adjusted when throttle is 
completely closed, no choke on, engine warm and properly timed. Of course 
valves should be adjusted within specs but I don't think you will need to go 
that far :-)

Sylvain
C&C27MkIII



________________________________
 From: "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
 

I will look at the tube!  thanks...no one has brought that up yet and I never 
thought of it..

I have been playing with the idle mix screw It does have an effect but I still 
can't seem to get it to idle low enough

I'm kind of saving the timing for last.  I'm assuming Moyer set that precisely 
before it left their shop and I really don't want to mess with it yet.

The choke seems to want to be fully open.  I have a spare carburetor I rebuilt 
last year sitting in my toolbox.  I'm going to swap that out next.  That 
"should" eliminate clogged jets as a possible problem.

I just put the plugs in this season and gapped them to spec,  They are all a 
nice golden brown color.

Here is a link to the carb with the flame arrestor removed
http://sdrv.ms/14SwiMr

...and here is one of a the #1 spark plug
http://sdrv.ms/1eZpLVP

You can probably scroll around and see other photos and a couple of videos of 
the engine running.




---------- Original Message ----------
From: "jtsails" <jtsai...@gmail.com>
To: <md...@ca.inter.net>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 00:06:20 -0400

Also make sure the scavenge tube isn't blocked.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 MkII
Oriental, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Dean" <md...@ca.inter.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb things to try.


> Danny,
>
> I am assuming that you didn't forget to try adjusting the idle mixture
> screw. (I forgot one year - duh!)  Did it have any effect?  It may also be
> worth loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth 10 degrees 
> or
> so, though timing as very non-critical on the A4.  Another thing to try is
> to slowly pull the choke out in small increments.  If it idles better then
> something in the idle fuel path is likely plugged a bit and it is running
> lean at idle.
>
> Another possibility is the float valve isn't closing perfectly and at idle
> too much fuel is entering the carb.  Sometimes the float valve can be 
> freed
> up by shutting off the fuel supply and letting the engine run until the 
> carb
> is empty.  Open the fuel supply valve and start the engine - will take a
> moment or two.  The rush of fuel into the carb can sometimes clean the 
> float
> valve if it is a bit gummy.
>
> I also assume the plugs are good and properly gapped.
>
> All I can suggest that doesn't require removing the carb again and blowing
> out the various jets with compressed air.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> djhaug...@juno.com
> Sent: August-19-13 2:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Carb rebuild
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking into rebuilding my carb.  I'm having some idling issues and 
> It's
> getting better and better but I think It should be better still.  When I
> looked inside the carb.  It was dirty and gritty...no good,
>
> I sprayed it all with carb cleaner.  Although it is better I want to try a
> rebuild and more aggressive cleaning.
>
> I've found the moyer rebuild kit at $87.00 + shipping then I found this 
> one
>
> for $26.00 and I could buy 3 for the less and get free shipping...
> http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=KT-5535
>
> It seems it is even a better kit in that it has more parts, specifically, 
> it
> seems to have the throttle arm seal and cap in it.
>
> Is moyer really just price gouging?
>
> he even charges another $12.50 for his tech tip videos on trouble shooting
> you carb.  I mean I'm all for a guy making a buck but, you'd think if he 
> is
> charging more than triple on parts, he could throw in the videos...  I'll
> probably pay the $12.50 to see it, especially if I save all that dough on
> the kit!  Then, I don't have to feel guilty about not giving the guy my
> business...  I mean I'd hate to see him go out of business...
>
> Anyway, maybe this is a substandard kit?
>
> Also, I have a rebuilt carb that I did last year before I knew I was 
> buying
> the Moyer exchange engine.  So, I'll swap that in, I would just like to 
> have
> a rebuilt one on standby...
>
> I also found a farm tractor supply selling the whole carb for $175.46 
> Moyer
> wants $270
>
> http://www.farmersserviceinc.com/marine.htm
>
> Any comments or suggestions are always appreciated!  I thought this could 
> be
> good infor for the other A4 boats... if there are any left LOL
>
> Danny
>
>
>
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