in general, but for some reason
it was not generating sufficient flow or pressure for the cooling system to
work correctly. Finally, back to sailing! Thank you for all the input from the
list. Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

Your contributions help pay the
think about every aspect of the system. Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

> On Jul 24, 2025, at 8:31 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> David;
>
> IIRC correctly this string started with an overheating problem?
>
> The water comin
. Is there a
thermostat somewhere in the engine (Universal M4-30)? Can those malfunction?
I presume if it did not open, the engine would overheat? I don't even know
where the thermostat is so have never looked at it but I am concerned whether
that is something I need to check. Dave
I talked to Boulter and they confirmed that they can't get Teak and Holly
plywood either. They have a few sheets of 3/8" left and that is it. Looks like
I may be looking at synthetic (Plasteak etc.). Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

> On Jul 21,
I was considering replacing a delaminated floor panel in my boat, and the local
wood supplier told me that they could not get teak and holly plywood anymore
due to some import restriction. Has anyone else encountered this or know a way
around it? Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
Is it leaking around the plex or around the frame? If the frame to deck seal
is leaking I would use Bed-it butyl to rebed the hatch to the deck. Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

> On Jun 29, 2025, at 11:11 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
he rest is apart and pray. Thanks- Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep
it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at:
https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All con
Hi Douglas- I thought about replacing the studs as one is likely thread
damaged, but I have no idea how to do that. They are supposed to be threaded
into the manifold. Any suggestions? Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

> On Jun 22, 2025, at 8:48 PM, Doug M
art of the flange to the remains of the
threaded rod? Thanks- Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep
it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at:
https://www.paypa
bling together a riser using
black iron pipe parts. What they are building would not fit in my boat so I am
wondering how others dealt with this issue.
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep
ger was cool, but maybe this is the raw water
> temperature and not the engine temperature?
> How hot did the engine get? Did it warm up faster than normal?
> This could be the fresh water pump or the thermostat, or some other fresh
> water circulation problem.
>
> Richard Arpe
Some progress to report. One step forward. One step back. I checked the
strainer last night and all good. Reassembled hoses and found no water coming
out of pump inlet hose at pump height but dropping it to bilge height got good
flow. I could hear lots of air being pushed out and then just water
. Dave
David Knecht
Emeritus Rear Commodore/Thames Yacht Club
Emeritus Professor/University of Connecticut
Basketball Capital of the World
> On Jun 6, 2025, at 11:38 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 6, 2025 at 11:28 AM Bill Coleman <mai
water pump. I did
read an online engine thread where people had this problem with a particular
engine, but simply revving the engine got the pump primed and pulling water.
Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

> On Jun 5, 2025, at 4:58 PM, rickbrass--- via CnC-Li
water pump. I did
read an online engine thread where people had this problem with a particular
engine, but simply revving the engine got the pump primed and pulling water.
Dave
David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list
before the water pump? Could hose be old and collapsing?Joel On Thu, Jun 5, 2025 at 4:42 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Update. Diver confirmed nothing blocking thru hull. So with seacock open water flows strongly out of strainer with lid removed. But it dribbles
but suppose i will have to remove it. Major inaccessible pita. DaveSent from my iPhoneOn Jun 5, 2025, at 1:44 PM, John Irvin wrote:
It’s more likely to suck air and not pump.
Get Outlook for iOS
From: David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 5, 2025 1:13:24 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc
Fyi. I am on my mooring so some ideas aren’t practical. DaveSent from my iPhoneOn Jun 5, 2025, at 1:09 PM, David Knecht wrote:Hi john. Wouldn’t the pump be leaking water if seal is bad? DaveSent from my iPhoneOn Jun 5, 2025, at 12:49 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List wrote:
Impeller gasket must
-List
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Stus-List Re: Water pump mystery
Air might be getting in without water leaking. It happened to me once, and it took me a while to figure it out.
Alan
On Thu, Jun 5, 2025 at 9:00 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
H
I am planning to pull hose off seacock- open it and shove a big screwdriver down the opening. Never done that. Bad idea? DaveSent from my iPhoneOn Jun 5, 2025, at 12:09 PM, David Knecht wrote:Hi Dennis. Did that. No apparent problem downstream. No water is getting to heat exchanger which is
discharge of the pump or the inlet to the exhaust elbow. Start the engine and observe if you have flow.--Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAOn Thu, Jun 5, 2025 at 10:31 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Eliminated many possibilities yesterday. Pump shaft t
get water pumping. AlanOn Thu, Jun 5, 2025 at 8:31 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Eliminated many possibilities yesterday. Pump shaft turning fine. Replaced impeller. Still not pumping water. Has anyone had a priming problem? My current hypothesis is that either the
p is turning. If not, tighten the belt. If yes, remove the exit hose from the pump and see whether water comes out when the engine is running and the pump is turning. If no water comes out, change the impeller.Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OROn Fri, May 30, 2025 at 12:34 PM David Kn
I noticed today when i turned the engine on that i could not hear water coming
out the transom port. Just air bubbles. Also the temp gauge read zero which i
am guessing would happen with no water near sensor. Opened intake strainer cap
and water comes in when seacock is opened. Took cover off sh
One small point on Paul's post: What I have read and experienced is that
dielectric grease is unnecessary as well as messy to work with. The mechanical
contacts in most plugs do not need dielectric grease to function normally and
if lubrication is desired, any grease will work. I keep superlu
When I took my transmission apart last summer to try to replace it, I found
that the coupler had been put on flush with the shaft end. The new
transmission I got required the coupler to be slightly offset so there was a
depression for the transmission coupler to seat flush with the shaft couple
S Clamps on them. For me, the only downside is that they are
>> pricey, but there is a local Hose Vendor that has pretty good prices. I
>> wouldn't use these for a major suction purpose.
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>> Erie
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 11, 2025 at 3:
such on the outer
>> surface.
>>
>> They are reinforced (and yes, stiff). You could use wire reinforced clear
>> hose. Less stiff than the black or sanitation hose.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 10, 2025 at 12:05 PM David Knecht via CnC-List
&
I am wondering if there is a reason why one would need to (or want to) use a
thick, stiff hose for a sink drain connected to a seacock. It makes bends
difficult/impossible and makes it difficult to remove the hose from the barb.
It seems like overkill in a situation where there is little to no
80 psi). Dave
https://www.renehersecycles.com/myth-16-higher-tire-pressure-is-faster/?srsltid=AfmBOork2tEEWJzCXYhjHdtya_q1DZZEJfm5CdFQ4lk7ST0UVoCYRU6r
David Knecht
Emeritus Rear Commodore/Thames Yacht Club
Emeritus Professor/University of Connecticut
Basketball Capital of the World
Your
planned. Dave
David Knecht
Emeritus Rear Commodore/Thames Yacht Club
Emeritus Professor/University of Connecticut
Basketball Capital of the World
Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep
it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal
I am considering whether it is worth sanding/smoothing or burnishing the Black
Widow bottom paint that was rolled on last year. It has a typical short nap
roller orange skin like texture currently. I have read numerous times that a
smooth bottom is a fast bottom. But I have yet to see any dat
There was a prior discussion regarding winterizing the engine where someone
described converting the engine raw water seacock into a Tee-fitting so that
antifreeze could be run into the engine to winterize the boat. This would
allow the process without having to remove the hose from the raw wat
There was a recent Practical Sailor article and video concerning a blocked raw
water intake and how to clear it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lw6qttgBeFo).
In the Comments, someone pointed to the Aqualarm water flow sensor
(https://aqualarm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&produc
I was going to try to clean the cushion covers on the boat, but not sure how
best to tackle the problem. They have zippers, but the buttons are sewn in
from front to back, so the stitching would have to be cut and resown to put
them in a washer. I am wondering if a small upholstery cleaner mig
This is the one that Dennis recommended a while back. I like it as well:
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85035-35-MicroDriver-Set/dp/B0062FSAVI
GEARWRENCH 35 Piece Microdriver Set | 85035
amazon.com
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT
> On Dec 24, 2024, at 4:52
I hate bringing up bad memories, but I did the same the first day I took the
family out in my "new" 1982 34 many years ago. We were only going 2-3 knots
but it still felt like a car crash. Nothing obvious in the bilge and went the
whole season afterwards with no issues and no leaks. I never h
gt;>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 11/20/2024 9:14 AM EST Dave S via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I never pumped antifreeze through the seawater side of my 2gm20f, and did
>> n
After winterized my boat I got to thinking about the process of pumping
antifreeze through the engine and water tank system. Some people winterize
their house water system by blowing all the water out of the lines instead of
pumping in antifreeze. If you did the same with the seawater side of
ck if it is working
correctly from your end? Thanks- Dave
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT
> On Nov 5, 2024, at 8:21 AM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
>
> David – the item on the Photo Album chandlery is still good. Instead of any
> amount, it is in
Hi Stu- I noticed that the cncphotoalbum/chandlery/support has a Photoalbum
support item. Is that an appropriate way to make contributions? Dave
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

> On Nov 4, 2024, at 12:09 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Good afternoon Listers.
>
> Halloween is over
s) to a through hull. I’ve had a couple of
>>> old hose clamps snap when being tightened and had hose barbs break in the
>>> past.IMO, Less is best.Windstar had a straight run of reinforced
>>> rubber hose direct from sink drain to seacock, and I don’
I recently repacked my stuffing box with Gore packing. I had lubricated the
threads so it was easy to adjust so i hand tightened until no water was coming
out then tightened the lock nut with wrench. We had a long motor the other day
and i was able to check it while moving. There was still no wa
I am motoring from block island to home and just had the motor stop powering
the boat. Sailing now with motor off and shaft is turning whether in forward or
reverse. Moving shift lever at transmission has no effect. Sounds like my
transmission just crapped out. Can sail back but is this an in
Mine are two pieces of starboard with an overlap lip where they meet. It will
likely outlast the boat. Came with the boat so I don't know how it was made.
Heavier than lexan and no light gets through, but I appreciate the durability.
The upper also has a solar fan mounted in the middle, whic
A bit off topic, but related as long as we are talking about clogged Racors.
When I installed a Racor 500 on my boat last year, I added an Across Ocean
Systems (AOS) fuel pressure sensor on the intake line between the Racor and the
tank. It sends the data to my Raymarine chartplotter over Sea
Interesting discussion. The only time I have had my raw water intake plugged
was when I ran the engine in a grassy area while at anchor. In that case, the
grass plugged up the through hull and never got to the strainer. The admiral
dived down and cleared it by hand by pulling the weeds out.
t@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?
>
> Hey David,
> That's cool. You made an adapter plate, so you didn't change the holes
> through the deck. That's a cool trick.
&
When I swapped an old non-self tailing winch with a new Harken winch, I decided
I wanted to re-use the holes from the previous winch. So I bought a circular
aluminum plate the size of the winch base, drilled holes through it in the
pattern of the original winch, then drilled and tapped holes to
I used PEX to install a pH adjustment tank for our house water. It was really
easy. Sharkbite fittings are really easy to attach even for copper to pex
junctions and have so far worked flawlessly. I haven’t soldered pipe since I
discovered them. Dave
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames
Hi- JohnKelly- Another thing you might consider for the chandlery is C&C
license plate holders. If I remember correctly, Edd got ahold of some as swag
for one of the C&C rendezvous's and I have had them on my car ever since. Mine
are aging and I would replace them in a heartbeat.
I had my boat painted a few years ago with Awlcraft 2000. I find that I am
getting a large number of light scratches in the hull paint in the area where I
normally bring my dinghy alongside to board the boat. This is near where the
launch comes as well, but the location seems to correlate more
I would not use Barnaby Blatch. He did a survey of my boat after a grounding
and required me to do some unrelated stuff that I thought was unnecessary, time
consuming and costly; for instance an automatic fire suppression system in the
engine compartment. Dave
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New Londo
Hi Bill- I have a portable DeWalt vac/blower which I love for these jobs. It
runs corded or cordless/battery. I have thought of doing the same thing to
clear the water lines, but wasn’t sure how to join the two. How did you make a
decent seal between the small diameter water line from the pum
And then of course there are the French Press or Pour Over devices that use hot
water from the stove, no electric power, and make a much superior cup of coffee
(yes, I am a coffee snob). Dave
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album
I am glad the subject of tacking a large genoa came up. I have a great deal of
trouble with my 145 genoa trying to get it so it does not require extensive
winching. What tends to happen is that the clew of the genoa folds back on
itself at the mast as you come head to wind and then gets trappe
outside the
harbor). Depending on your timing, the New London Maritime Festival is coming
up Sept 9-10 (https://visitnewlondon.org/ct-maritime-heritage-festival/). Dave
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT
> On Aug 29, 2023, at 2:18 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-L
, good restaurants and lively music and art scene.
Down side is ferry wakes from 6AM until midnight. Dave
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT
> On Aug 29, 2023, at 1:38 PM, John McCrea via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Joel,
>
> Hello. We have lived in M
cleaning frequency from
every 2 weeks to every 3 weeks and still has very little cleaning to do even
with that. He is now convinced and telling other owners how good that paint is
(in our area at least). Dave
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT
Please show your
Hi chuck. What made you decide to replace it? Problems or trying to prevent
them? Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 16, 2023, at 7:53 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> That SS kit looks really nice if it matches your engine.
>
> FWIW, it wouldn't match my Universal M4-3
When i replaced my fuel pump i used gassola on the threads of the nipples. In order to get the nipples in the right orientation i could not tighten them down hard. If using pipe dope does it matter? DaveSent from my iPhoneOn Jul 15, 2023, at 12:03 PM, Gary Newton via CnC-List wrote:GM Stainless
ut may be of interest.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
> On 6/27/2023 12:45 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>> So I am back to my engine problem hoping someone can help clarify things. I
>> have had the engine quit several more times, bu
Universal M4-30
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
> On Jun 27, 2023, at 6:47 PM, Josh via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Please remind us what engine you have.
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help
> me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
>
I have a Whale low profile (non-automatic) pump stuck vertically in the bilge.
It gets most of the water out of the narrow deep bilge on the 34+. It has
worked great for many years. Dave
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album
So I am back to my engine problem hoping someone can help clarify things. I
have had the engine quit several more times, but with no consistency as to when
or why it happens. We were on a cruise recently and used it often and for long
periods going in and out of harbors. Mostly it worked fine
I put in a Morningstar Sunsaver Duo
(https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/) paired with a 50W
panel many years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since. Keeps my 2
batteries topped up while the boat is at the mooring. I got the one with the
separate output meter, which has
Karl- I agree with Neil that it sounds like transmission, but I have not had
that problem so no personal experience.
As long as we are onto other engine strangeness, my M4-30 dies routinely when
shifting from neutral to reverse at minimum throttle unless I kick the rpm up a
bit. I suspect it
ady to leave but the mast was still in the paint shed so we motored off
> without a mast. Didn't need to open any bridges and was relaxed about
> restarting in the locks and heading west. (The anchoring gear was ready to go
> this time.) When we got to our Shilshole Bay Marina
anna RoseFort Walton Beach, FLhttp://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:27 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:On Fri, Jun 9, 2023 at 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored out of harb
I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored out
of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while waiting for wind.
Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started up and ran for a bit
longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and fuel pressure and level
This is what I bought an auto parts store ages ago:
https://www.amazon.com/Supco-Belt-Tension-Jack/dp/B008FM8BM4
<https://www.amazon.com/Supco-Belt-Tension-Jack/dp/B008FM8BM4>
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT
> On May 14, 2023, at 5:07 PM, Josh via CnC-Li
I finished my winch project yesterday and am quite happy with the result. I
used an aluminum plate as adapter as I had planned which I drilled and tapped
for the Harken mounting holes. Then I was able to reuse a number of the old
through deck holes plus several new ones to mount the plate (bed
I am in the same position, but I can’t blame it on a hurricane (my stupidity
instead). Had the topsides painted in 2021 with Awlcraft 2000 and it looked
great. Last mark of the last race of the season in 2021 I was single-handing
and put the boat on autopilot to take the whisker pole down at t
On the 34+, the perforated aluminum toe rail has relatively sharp edges. It
cuts through my cover ties every winter, so I suspect it would do the same to
nylon line wrapped through it. That is why I am looking into dyneema netting.
I am surprised yours has lasted 10 years with paracord. What
ella Barba, Joe
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting
>
> I find it very useful to keep dogs, kids, and sails on deck. An adult is much
> more likely to go over the top.
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.c
Since I sail often single/double handed, I am thinking about adding lifeline
safety netting to my boat. It seems like it might be useful to prevent rolling
off the deck into the water (ie. death). Never having fallen off a boat, I am
not sure if it is really worth it and if there are many scen
Thanks for all the feedback. You guys always have great thoughts!
I thought of a third option but not sure if it helps. I could possibly swap
the other starboard cabin top winch for a self-tailer and reroute the main
halyard. I think I have more room there to mount it there, but will have to
I would love some feedback on a project since my initial plan went awry and
hope others can help me from making any more mistakes. I keep making small
tweaks to make life easier for short-handed sailing. Since I am usually alone,
raising the main is a process. I raise it most of the way by ha
I just read an interesting article in Practical Sailor on red vs. white lights
and night vision. It reminded me to ask a question of those more experienced
about night racing. I have only done this a few times and found upwind
steering at night to be a real challenge. I normally steer by the
I did exactly as described by Chuck a while back. Sliced the plastic
vertically with a saw blade and then pounded the sections loose. Fortunately
for me, the new one was the same size as the old one, so I did not have to cut
a new hole. Dave
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
> On Feb
My C&C 34+ came without bow chocks. Not sure how the anchor lines were
connected. Garhauer created a set for me based on measurements and photos I
provided. Pretty easy installation and I have been very happy I added them.
Cost was under $300 (9 years ago) for the set of two. Dave
D
om/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=05%7C01%7C%7C4630155a11234cb42b7608dad157d254%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638052472373721841%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=AZ4rGDVCapYiDLm6%
weeks. It became
a winter ritual. Very happy with the results. Dave
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT
> On Nov 28, 2022, at 12:02 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Anybody replace their leather wheel cover lately?
> I'm thin
I agree with much of what has been suggested.
I disagree on the Klein screwdriver. I prefer the Lutz style where the all
the tips are visible all the time.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutz-21001-Ratchet-Screwdriver-Blue/dp/B00ZKQ8BJQ/ref=sr_1_35?crid=26LURHODN4JV0&keywords=multi+tip+screwdriver&qid
hat the switch will break off.
>
> The push button will probably be able to be ripped off the switch with pliers
> allowing you access to the center.
>
> Good luck.
>
> COMP
> 1979 C&C 34
> Groton, CT
>
> On Thursday, October 20, 2022 at 11:46:20 AM EDT, Da
e the picture of the control panel shown in
> that article. The article also shows a wiring diagram.
>
> On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> It is wired just like the Universal manual diagram except that the jum
think my gauge has
numbers. I have not installed the glow plug solenoid he discusses so that is
stock. Dave
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT
> On Oct 26, 2022, at 12:44 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> How is the ammeter at the control panel
upgrade/>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net <mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wr
settles at 12.9V. At the
same time, the batteries are measuring 12.5V. Something very strange is
happening. Dave
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> HELP! I am stumped and hoping someone can point
HELP! I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a
head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with now
and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key s
with a pair of vice grips or something similar. Sounds like it is no good
> anyway so tearing it up shouldn't be a problem.
>
> Regarding different switches, one may have been replaced in the past or have
> a different amperage rating than the other.
>
> Best,
>
>
I followed a tuning guide that I think I got from the C&C photo album site. I
have rod rigging and a Loos gauge (used on Ebay). Make sure vang and backstay
are loose. Set rake (about 12" from gooseneck) with forestay/furler, tune
uppers, then mid then lowers. I have now gone to Scar pins (wr
I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal
M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem. I had bought a new Cole Hersee
key switch and two push button switches for the replacement. I was able to
replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a sm
those tanks; if I was dying of thirst. Maybe. Take the
> filter out. Be careful of where you take on water and chlorinate
>
> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 12:59 PM David Knecht via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I mostly solved the mystery of my fresh water
l my problems
> went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Good thoughts. I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant
r the crew to get it all the
> way.in <http://way.in/> much faster. Let us know how these suggestions work.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 12, 2022 at 7:12 AM David Knecht via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-lis
I asked the list a while back about glow plugs (Universal M4-30) and whether
they should be a periodic replacement item. They should have been testable in
place, but I had trouble getting reliable readings from the meter. So I
decided since they were not that expensive ($80 for 4) to just go a
I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF class and
he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in heavier air. He
said he had recently started partially roller furling his large genoa for
upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was strong
Sad news indeed. But what a wonderful legacy he leaves behind. He left his
mark on the world for years to come with the beauty, form and function of the
boats he designed. Dave
David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT
> On Sep 10, 2022, at 4:39 AM, Andrew Burton
None of those caps would work on my boat. The thread diameter is different, so
the entire unit would have to be replaced. I have never seen a direct
replacement for the C&C one. Everyone who sees them thinks they are a great
idea, except for the fact that no one else has them. I always have
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