Here are a few answers to the comments:  

All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same wires 
but each terminal cleaned before attachment.   I find it hard to believe that 
cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault problem at some remote 
site that was not there before.  Things were generally working before I did 
anything. Now nothing works.
 
To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years ago, I 
replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt splice 
connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery switch, so 
the batteries are supposed to be isolated.

I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries when the 
two circuits are isolated by the ACR.  When I try to start the engine, 
everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings.  The meter 
goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then voltage slowly 
recovers over time.

I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side of the 
key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on.  That is measured relative 
to a ground terminal on the tachometer.  There is nothing there except the 
switch itself, right?  I am guessing that means something in terms of the 
problem, but I don’t know what.
Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control panel 
> with ammeter this article contains some very important information for you to 
> know. 
>  Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To 
> <https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net <mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel 
> ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked at the 
> input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key switch on, I 
> got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere downstream. I am 
> presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not understand what that means 
> and hoping someone else does.  The other weird thing is that as I have worked 
> on this, there are times when the battery meter in the cabin bounces all over 
> the place from 9V to 12V and back and then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the 
> same time, the batteries are measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is 
> happening.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> <pastedGraphic.tiff>
> 
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.  
>> Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a 
>> head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with 
>> now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, 
>> glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get 
>> start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next 
>> week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around 
>> but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. 
>> Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I 
>> guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check 
>> and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and 
>> checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn on key 
>> switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i 
>> measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and 
>> measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other 
>> devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems 
>> to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i screw something up when key 
>> switch was backwards?  Dave
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 

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