I think I fixed the starting problem yesterday and it is still at once mysterious and satisfying. I started by carefully checking all the power circuits after having gone over my circuit diagrams of how everything should be connected. All seemed correct on the panel and I had 12+ V at all contacts. Pushed the start button and nothing. I went to the engine to check the power at the starter solenoid and found the wire dangling from the solenoid spade fitting (impossible to see or get a hand in there). I reattached the wire and tried again and the engine turned over and started right up. In fact, it started quickly and easily. So I think my primary problem is fixed and in the end, the engine works better than before, which is what I was hoping for. I still don’t understand all the strange electrical issues I encountered along the way. Maybe that wire was intermittently contacting the starter housing and maybe that created would have created a short. I am not thrilled with the fact that a spade connector worked its way off over time. Maybe a spade connector is not the right type of connection for something vibrating all the time with the engine running. I don’t see a way to change the spade to something else unless someone has a suggestion. I have not touched that area of the engine for several years so it was not something I did while installing the switches. But the loose spade might explain why I has having intermittent starting issues. I will likely replace the spade fitting on the wire this winter/spring, but it is a really hard thing to get to without removing either the starter or the alternator so will leave that job for later. Thanks- Dave
S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT > On Oct 20, 2022, at 1:37 PM, Carl Freeman via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Occasionally you will get a push button that will not cooperate. Worse case > scenario grab the back of the switch with water pump pliers or vice grips and > drill out the center of the switch. Start a little undersized as it is likely > that the switch will break off. > > The push button will probably be able to be ripped off the switch with pliers > allowing you access to the center. > > Good luck. > > COMP > 1979 C&C 34 > Groton, CT > > On Thursday, October 20, 2022 at 11:46:20 AM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > I took the boot off and tried to loosen the collar on the outside, but no > luck. That is why I am not sure there isn't some hidden trick. Sprayed it > with PB Blaster and will try again next time I am on the boat. It is > possible that the PO put a different push button in, but I can't find > anything like that one in the Cole Hersey catalog. The other push button and > the new ones all have boots that pop on. This one the boot seems more > securely attached, which might be more weather resistant. I think the > outside collar actually trapped the rubber boot. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > <pastedGraphic.tiff> > >> On Oct 19, 2022, at 12:03 PM, Carl Freeman via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: >> >> Hi David, >> >> That back up nut on the backside will loosen it up if you can get at it. As >> an alternative you can cut the rubber boot off and grab the outside metal >> with a pair of vice grips or something similar. Sounds like it is no good >> anyway so tearing it up shouldn't be a problem. >> >> Regarding different switches, one may have been replaced in the past or have >> a different amperage rating than the other. >> >> Best, >> >> Carl >> >> On Wednesday, October 19, 2022 at 11:30:39 AM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: >> >> >> I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal >> M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem. I had bought a new Cole >> Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement. I was >> able to replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a small >> amount of blood and pain). However, I realized that the original push >> button start switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow plug >> button has a rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled round >> collar nut on the outside and another nut on the inside to secure it. The >> start button has a rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed and a >> rounded collar piece with no knurling that secures it on the outside. I >> have been unable to remove that collar and it is not clear if it is >> threaded. The inside nut is different as well, and it is so tightly spaced >> to the body that I have not found a tool thin enough to get to it and loosen >> it. Anyone have suggestions on: >> >> 1. Why these two push button switches are different when the presumably >> perform the same type of function? >> 2. A flat tool that can get to a narrow space for a large nut (something >> like a bicycle pedal wrench but adjustable)? >> 3. How that start push button switch is supposed to come apart? >> >> THanks- Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >> >> <pastedGraphic.tiff> > > <pastedGraphic.tiff>
