Re: Stus-List Spring prep

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I'd leave it alone without reason to change it.  My boat had been on the 
hard a while before launch, stuffing box was fine.  The valves on the 
thru-hulls on the other hand


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-02 3:15 PM, M Bod via CnC-List wrote:

This spring is challenging - the weather is just starting to warm up. Hopefully 
this weekend I can strip off the boat cover, get the boat paint done, quick 
polish/wax topsides and do some initial interior cleaning on the new boat.

Target is to splash Friday next week. Bit of a challenge because boat is an 
hour drive away.

Any advice on dealing with a stuffing box?
I've never had one before. I've read lots online. Bought new stuffing if 
required.
As far as know there were no issues with the stuffing box previously - but 
after 3 yrs on the hard should I replace the stuffing?
Not sure if it might dry out at all?
Or should in leave well enough alone - only replace it if there is a problem?

Mark
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Re: Stus-List Spring prep

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

If the valves all move that is great. What sort are they?  The issue I 
had was that mine are the tapered plug type, and a couple were worn 
enough that they leaked.  The temporary fix was to put a grease fitting 
on the drain plug holes and crank some grease in, the longer term fix 
was to re-machine them back to cone shape.  Not a fatal issue, more of 
an initial panic followed by annoyance.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-02 7:40 PM, M Bod via CnC-List wrote:

I was thinking the same thing.
Hopefully its in good shape. Not expecting I'd want to try and change it out my 
first time while its in the water! But a quick haul is not that bad.

And I've wondered about the thru hull valves - exercised them all back and 
forth a few times. They 'seem' OK, and the hoses appear OK as well.
I expect the hoses and thru hulls will get replaced over the next few years 
(hopefully I won't regret waiting!)

Mark

On 2 May 2014 19:07, Graham Collins  wrote:

I'd leave it alone without reason to change it.  My boat had been on the
hard a while before launch, stuffing box was fine.  The valves on the
thru-hulls on the other hand

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-02 3:15 PM, M Bod via CnC-List wrote:

This spring is challenging - the weather is just starting to warm up. Hopefully 
this weekend I can strip off the boat cover, get the boat paint done, quick 
polish/wax topsides and do some initial interior cleaning on the new boat.

Target is to splash Friday next week. Bit of a challenge because boat is an 
hour drive away.

Any advice on dealing with a stuffing box?
I've never had one before. I've read lots online. Bought new stuffing if 
required.
As far as know there were no issues with the stuffing box previously - but 
after 3 yrs on the hard should I replace the stuffing?
Not sure if it might dry out at all?
Or should in leave well enough alone - only replace it if there is a problem?

Mark
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Re: Stus-List help

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I know Dan, he is very dapper.  And his writing of the log while 
commodore was first rate...  so I guess Rich is correct.


Welcome aboard Dan, wasn't sure your intentions when you sold the Niagara...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-14 5:00 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:

Rich --- did you just call Dan a "dressy scribe"?!   :^)

Go to http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com and 
follow the instructions for changing your email address; or 
unsubscribe and *re-subscribe* with the new email address.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 14, 2014, at 2:40 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Dan. Go to the cncphotoalbum site, unsubscribe an dressy scribe to 
your new address.


Rich




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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I used a 3 arm puller, PB blaster, a blowtorch, and the largest wrench I 
could fit on the puller, with a pipe on that as an extension.  I had a 
12" adjustable wrench wedged in to keep the shaft from turning (the 
puller would have turned with it).  The adjustable wrench now has a very 
impressive bend to it, and it took a fair bit of heat and force to get 
off. Hopefully yours isn't that difficult.  And as Mainsail says in his 
blog, easiest way is to cut it off...  if time is money, go that route.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-16 11:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard 
and I have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. 
Anyone have advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It 
is disconnected from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft 
aft, so there is some clearance between the couplings. The pbase 
website suggests that these couplings may be press fit (as in machine 
shop press) PB blaster applied, light taps with mallet do nothing 
so far, considering heating it with a torch?


Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marine
Lake Superior
(with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)


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Re: Stus-List Plugged exhaust - help!

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dave
I had this problem when we bought SP, little or no water was making it 
through, and it turned out to be the right angle elbow was clogged.  I 
cleaned it out and she's run fine ever since.

I took the right angle elbow off of the mixing elbow, it just unscrews.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-20 7:17 PM, Dave Lane via CnC-List wrote:
Well, as things usually go, something that worked in the fall doesn't 
in the spring.


The engine starts but no cooling water flows out the exhaust - I did 
not need to find this out on launch day!


Anyway, this is a C&C 29-2 with 2GM-F engine. I diagnosed it and it's 
fine all the way to and including the raw water out of the heat 
exchanger. When I blow into the hose going into the u-shaped exhaust 
mixer, it's plugged. The engine exhaust itself seems fine. After it 
goes through the mixer, there is about a 2" ID hose to the muffler 
then another 2" hose to the stern port.


This problem may have been getting worse as the years went by as last 
year I was thinking the water flow was not as much as previous years.


Questions:

1. Is it likely that the blockage is in the mixer? Any suggestion for 
what I should try next?
2. The mixer has a right angle elbow going into it - should I try to 
remove it? Or stick I wire in it to try to unclog it?
3. In order to motor "slowly" home (a few miles) from the marina, I 
made a run to Canadian Tire for "stuff" and I plugged the exhaust 
water input to the mixer and made a temporary hose from the heat 
exchanger that I could feed out of the cockpit locker and over the 
side (the water flow was great). Can engine be run without water 
flowing through the muffler? (ie. does it depend on water cooling?)


Thanks in advance,

Dave
St. Margaret's Bay, NS
"Vela" C&C 29-2

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Re: Stus-List Plugged exhaust - help!

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

But his issue isn't with exhaust getting through the elbow, the issue is 
with water getting into it - so my money is on the little right angle 
elbow into the mixing elbow.
I've had the gasket for a year for removing the mixing elbow to check 
it, but it never makes it to the top of the list.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-20 9:26 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List wrote:

But If it's the original elbow, I suggest replacing it. It's not pretty 
when the side falls out of it due to corrosion and your boat slowly fills with 
exhaust gas and dirty water.

Rich


On May 20, 2014, at 21:12, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Common issue with Yanmars. Soot builds up in the mix elbow. Pull the mix elbow 
and clean it.  Should be 4 nuts.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone


On May 20, 2014, at 5:17 PM, Dave Lane via CnC-List  
wrote:

Well, as things usually go, something that worked in the fall doesn't in the 
spring.

The engine starts but no cooling water flows out the exhaust - I did not need 
to find this out on launch day!

Anyway, this is a C&C 29-2 with 2GM-F engine. I diagnosed it and it's fine all the way to 
and including the raw water out of the heat exchanger. When I blow into the hose going into 
the u-shaped exhaust mixer, it's plugged. The engine exhaust itself seems fine. After it goes 
through the mixer, there is about a 2" ID hose to the muffler then another 2" hose 
to the stern port.

This problem may have been getting worse as the years went by as last year I 
was thinking the water flow was not as much as previous years.

Questions:

1. Is it likely that the blockage is in the mixer? Any suggestion for what I 
should try next?
2. The mixer has a right angle elbow going into it - should I try to remove it? 
Or stick I wire in it to try to unclog it?
3. In order to motor "slowly" home (a few miles) from the marina, I made a run to 
Canadian Tire for "stuff" and I plugged the exhaust water input to the mixer and made a 
temporary hose from the heat exchanger that I could feed out of the cockpit locker and over the 
side (the water flow was great). Can engine be run without water flowing through the muffler? (ie. 
does it depend on water cooling?)

Thanks in advance,

Dave
St. Margaret's Bay, NS
"Vela" C&C 29-2

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Stus-List where to attach the fixed end of an autopilot linear drive

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

So to close this out, at last report I was looking at bolting my linear 
drive onto the underside of the propane locker.  Turns out that the 
propane locker is not nearly so beefy as one might think, so that plan 
is out and now I have a couple of holes to fill in the locker. :-(


Plan B is to bolt it to the underside of the cockpit floor, my only 
reservation with that is the resulting bolt heads in the floor.  But 
much easier than plan C (fab up a shelf and glass it to the hull), and 
easier to do with the boat already in the water.  Hmm...


--
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Rob
Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you will 
have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the cables.  
Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate holding the 
pedestal guard.
2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter 
pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice grips.
3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the metal 
plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob 
to unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad slides 
on/off.


That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for 
beer... :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:

Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?

When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?


Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
challenge.


If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Teak and Holly floor Boards

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Lee
Where are you located, that would help in advising sources of materials.

As for technique, this has come up a few times and the archives should 
have lots of suggestions.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-24 3:44 PM, Lee via CnC-List wrote:

I  need to replace the floor boards on my 1987 35' C&C Mark 3.
I am having trouble finding a source. Any suggestions for me or has 
anyone done this before?



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Re: Stus-List Seacocks

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I'm lazier than that, for the sink in the head I have a 2nd valve just 
under the sink that I can easily get at - the seacock is a pain to get 
to, it is readily accessible but I'm not likely to do so.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-26 10:37 AM, coltrek via CnC-List wrote:
Well, I guess I'm a bad seaman too. I have never closed my seacocks 
either. I just make sure that my hoses are good and the connections 
are sound. I could never remember to turn them on when I needed them. 
I'll take that back. I do have to close to seacock to the sink in the 
head when the wind is up.



 Bill
C&C 39


 Original message 
From: dwight via CnC-List
Date:05/26/2014 5:18 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Jim Watts' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Seacocks

My C&C 35 MKII has 7 Groco bronze seacocks, each one placed in a very 
hard to reach space...since it is well known to be good seamanship to 
close all seacocks when leaving the boat I wonder why the designers 
did not make them a little more easily accessible and with longer 
handles too...I might be more inclined to use them if they were more 
accessible...however all 7 do move freely open to close, the surveyor 
confirmed that just last week




*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Jim Watts via CnC-List

*Sent:* May 26, 2014 2:07 AM
*To:* M Bod; 1 CnC List
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List First sail

Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the 
seacock handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start 
the engine with pretty much anything I have in my pocket including 
lint. I leave the seacock open. I know this makes me a bad person and 
I can live with that.



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List > wrote:



OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new 
hoses and new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is 
supposed to be working smoothly.


Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why 
roller furler was jamming for a bit.
Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked 
good (exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).


Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the 
marina to a nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).


10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle 
down. Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.


We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with 
the coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned 
me) the seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!!


Opened the seacock.  Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of 
our coolant - so I poured in a 1/2 litre water bottle. Kept the engine 
at low rpm and made the run to the cove.


Little hitch at the end.  Went to furl the jib but too much sail and 
not enough line on the furling drum. Only managed to pack away 2/3 of 
the sail. Solved that by doing 10 clockwise circles in the bay to wrap 
the sail around the forestay! Dirty, but it worked.
All told we survived. Feel like a royal idiot for forgetting the 
seacock. Had pretty good water shooting out of the muffler after - but 
I figure I better pull the impellor and check/replace it anyway.


I had checked the exhaust when we started - saw splashes. But later 
realized I was looking at the air exhaust hitting the water and 
causing a little splash.


Still a little shell shocked from the experience but thinking I'll 
likely remember the seacock in the future!


Mark
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Re: Stus-List First time out at the helm

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

A first outing that didn't involve the insurance company is a success!

I think my first outing was accompanied by mumbling (or outright talk) 
of an "idiot at the helm", luckily we were leaving that club to take the 
boat to a new home.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-27 9:34 PM, via CnC-List wrote:

Since my darling husband decided to jump ship and file for divorce, I left the dock with 
myself at the helm just this past weekend. My brother and his buddy who knows nothing 
about sAiling were along and I'm so glad they were. Leaving the dock wAs a bit tricky 
since the tide and wind was against us and against the Atomic 4.  We wound up backing out 
of the marina breakwaters after fending off successfully several boats. Embarrassing? Yes 
but a great lesson. And unfortunately upon return, there were mumblings about a 
"woman at the helm ".   It wasn't pretty  but there was no damage.
Barbara Hickson Fellers




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Re: Stus-List Cruising

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Ken is part of the organizing crew for that regatta, so he deserves full 
credit for it being a very fun and well organized regatta.  He's tried 
to convince me to do it (insufficient vacation time), but the few I know 
who have done it speak highly about it and are headed back again this year.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-29 4:09 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote:

Ken,

I just noted that your boat (you) were participating in the Race the 
Cape event. It looks like a very fun and well organized regatta. Good 
luck for the race. I would like to go down there in the future and 
enter the race, but this project will have to wait unitl i can take 
enough vacation to go and then come back.


I see there is a 33 mkII registered too (Airways), would have been fun 
to race against a similar boat.


Bruno
Bécassine
C&C 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Baie des chaleurs, Qc


Date: Thu, 29 May 2014 11:04:48 -0300
To: persuasio...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Mike,

When you get near Cape Breton Island send me an email.

Ken H. & Anne T.
Salazar
C&C 37 XL
Sydney, NS (or the Bras d'Or Lakes)


On 29 May 2014 10:56, Persuasion via CnC-List > wrote:


Hi Stu
Just wanted to let the list know that this coming Sunday we (the
Admiral and I) are leaving on an extended cruise.  We will be
sailing down the St. Lawrence to spend the summer in the Maritimes
(our home turf) then late summer early fall we'll head south with
our final destination in the Bahamas in early 2015.  In any one
wishes to follow our blog they can access it here
. Also, track our progress here
. 
If anyone spots me along the way come over for a visit.

I would also like to thank you for your efforts and all of the
support I have received from the list.
Would you please un-subscribe me for now.
Thanks
Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault (soon to be ???)

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Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Congrats on your successful re-launch!

Now you have to change your sig line though...  and what is her new name?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-02 5:56 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List wrote:


Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our 
maiden voyage under electric power.


Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the 
load of dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least 
we are in the water!


Now, for a few notes as to how she performed

1)So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don't even know you are 
running the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash 
swirls.


2)Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable

3)Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised was 
due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so 
long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.


4)The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no 
drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise 
noted until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping 
while turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and 
the temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  
Interestingly at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I 
did this, the time number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  
I then re-locked the nut in this position and it ran fine.


5)Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like 
the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike 
the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a 
y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 
30A inlet cable, what does the list think?


6)With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to the 
full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned 
vibration above 1000.


7)Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone of 
voiceas if we were ghosting


Alex Giannelia

CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed

TORONTO, Ontario

ag@@airsensing.com



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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Eric

Sorry, not a bluenose.  The general hull shape looks close, but that is 
true of lots from that era.  The cabin would be a one-off for sure, I've 
never seen a bluenose with one that big.  And the rig is wrong, the 
upper diamond is too high for a bluenose - the jumper stays are about 
1/3rd from the top on a bluenose, those are higher.


The one we built when I was a kid is in this picture, B-79
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36947638@N08/3395942121/

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-02 1:58 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List wrote:
From the overall hull shape and way the hull comes out of the water 
well before the stern, the best match of all the responses was from 
Dwight, who thought it might be a Bluenose sloop, first built in 1946. 
 Also note the way the mast is stayed, with upper shrouds pushed 
forward (they must have a correct name, but I don't know it). The 
later ones were fiberglass (built by McVay - wouldn't you know, 
another Canadian classic design!) and most seem to have little or no 
cabin, but some pictures do have small cabins, so perhaps that was 
done to the boat I saw.  Here is a website describing them if you care 
to match specs with the photos I posted:


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CEQQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fsailboatdata.com%2Fviewrecord.asp%3Fclass_id%3D40&ei=m6eMU6vOKIbQsQSq9ICYDg&usg=AFQjCNEjklU00OZvZhZ0-mdQ7ry3I7Lcpw&bvm=bv.67720277,d.cWc

Or just Google Bluenose sloop.

Here are my two photos (again) for comparison.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Eric



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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I agree it isn't a Bluenose, but a bluenose is 23' 3" LOA per specs.  16 
ft on the waterline though, she has pretty long overhangs.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-02 7:23 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List wrote:
The issue with the Bluenose is that it is only maybe 16 feet long and 
this boat is obviously much bigger. The cape dory I linked has the 
same port configuration, but I agree that the stern is wrong. There 
were a ton of "me too" boats in that era, so this could even be from 
some company that built 10-20 boats and folded. 25 to 20 feet seems 
the right size range. The roue 20 lacks the wood coamings, and has 
slotted metal toerails. To me it seems like just another of the "me 
too" boats with lines approximately borrowed from CD. This boat has 
many CD inspired visual clues. The little triangular second set of 
spreaders looks familiar. Another guess of mine that is probably 
wrong, but might jog someone else's memory is that it looks similar 
but not identical to a Sea Sprite.


http://www.boatersresources.com/bfs_detail.php?adid=99781

Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 4:51 PM, dwight wrote:


The stern of the cape dorey is quite different and not as sleek as 
the lttle Bluenose or the Roue 20, which is another possibility but 
the Roue 20 is 30 feet long




*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html


Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

  
  






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Re: Stus-List Landfall 35 - now mine

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Welcome James, and congrats on the purchase.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-03 8:14 PM, JAMES LEMESURIER via CnC-List wrote:

Good evening

I've been lurking here for a while, waiting to take ownership of an 81 Landfall 
35. She splashed on Saturday and the hand-off took place. She's now berthed at 
the RKYC in Saint John,NB Canada. Plan to spend this season getting to know the 
boat on the Saint John River and Bay of Fundy - maybe down the Maine coast. 
Seems like a helpful crowd here. I am sure to have lots of questions.

James LeMesurier
Landfall 35 SISU
Saint John, NB

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Re: Stus-List Teak

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I recently cut up a bedroom set from the 60s that was solid teak, so the 
stuff is out there - check drawers, underside of tops, etc and see if it 
is solid and is in fact teak.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-25 3:17 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

Hi All. Old boat ownership related...

I've been searching the local classifieds for a piece of furniture for 
my sister and I keep noticing "teak" furniture. Some of it is really 
cheap, today I found a rather large solid looking shelf/cabinet thing 
that's going free... "teak".


I'm probably just dreaming that these people have actual solid teak 
furniture, right? Is old "teak" furniture a good source for teak? Or 
is the word "teak" when discussing furniture just another word for veneer?


Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



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Re: Stus-List Aluminum coating

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I just had mine powder coated, no issues.  And the Edson instructions 
Steven cited say the pedestals are powder coated.  So I think those 
fears are unfounded.


Previous boat - I had the pedestal Awlgrip'd, it came out well but I 
chipped the damn paint while installing it.  Powder coating was 1/2 the 
price I paid for the Awlgrip job, and looks good so far.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-30 12:36 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:

A powder coating guy I spoke with a few years back told me that powder-coating 
wasn't recommended for aluminum castings, as the heat used to bake on the 
powder could cause the casting to fracture.

Frederick G Street
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38)
Bayfield, WI


On Jun 29, 2014, at 9:47 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List  
wrote:

Do you think it would work well on a black pedestal?  Mine has been eroding 
away in a few spots over the years.  Might be best to remove the pedestal and 
have the whole thing powder coated, but maybe the zinc chromate primer and 
black paint might get me by for a few year?  What do you think?  Anyone have 
any luck with painting over the cancer while still on the boat?

Thanks,

Brad
CnC 36
"Dora Pearl"
Seattle

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 29, 2014, at 3:45 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Tom,

I've used zinc chromate primer and black spray paint.  It has held up well.
The primer has a tenacious hold, while the black spray paint may need a
touch up after a couple of years.  Overall, I'd say it works well.

Jake


Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va






-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2014 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Aluminum coating

The black coating on the stanchion bases along the rail on Alera have flaked
off in a few spots.  I bet someone here has dealt with this issue...

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Arera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Re: Stus-List Play in the steering

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

You guys must have freakishly long arms if you can reach the adjusting 
nuts for the cable on the rudder quadrant, on mine it is about 30" from 
the end of the quarterberth to the rudder shaft!


My method to get in there is to close the port cockpit drain seacock, 
pull the hose off it and get it out of the way, and then I can slide in 
on my back.  Not that I like it, but that works for me.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-07-14 2:05 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Alan,

Good to know the nuts can be reached through the access panels!  I 
discovered this weekend that one of mine has no nut.  I was dreading 
trying to crawl in there.


Joel
35/3


On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 12:31 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


You may need to remove the cockpit drain hose in the port cockpit
locker to get to the quadrant (find a long, thin person would be
my advice).  Good advice on the top bearing nuts - that took a lot
of play out of my steering when done last year.

Tim

Mojito
C&C 35 Mk III
Branford, CT


On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 11:19 AM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


David:

Center the wheel and lock it in place with the brake.  Then
tighten the four screws that hold the bearing around the
rudder post to the cockpit floor.  You'll have to remove the
helm seat in order to reach in through the access ports so you
can hold the nuts with a wrench.  Once that is done, you can
tighten the turnbuckles that are used to adjust the cable
tension until you have the amount of play with which you are
comfortable.  You can reach the turnbuckles through the port
cockpit locker, and possibly through the access panel in the
back of the quarter berth.  Now would be a good time to check
the cables to make sure they are not frayed.  Take a piece of
facial tissue (Kleenex) and hold it loosely around the cable,
while someone moves the wheel through it's full rotation.  If
there is any fraying, the tissue will catch it, and it would
be advisable to replace the cable.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

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--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Anyone remove the helm seat?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Scott doesn't have his in place on his 35-3, but he is a big guy (not 
overweight, just big).  Try it for a while?


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-07-22 8:10 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
I removed the helm seat in order to get to the rudder post bolts.  I'm 
thinking of leaving the seat out in order to create more space behind 
the wheel.  (I was going to try to make a teak seat with a more gentle 
contour.)


Has anyone else removed the seat?  What is it like sailing without it?

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List long lasting bacon

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Cover a baking tray with tinfoil
Lay bacon out on the tray
Put in oven and then turn on oven, set to 425 and cook for 16 - 18 minutes.
Remove from oven, drain oil and allow to cool
Wrap up in paper towel, reheat it on the boat - I dump it in a pan and 
toss that into the oven, works for me, a frying pan on top will also do 
the job...


enjoy!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-07-25 1:06 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote:
I think I read on this web site how to semi cook bacon to make it 
last. Does anyone have the details?



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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi John
For some of us the idea of doing contortions to be able to pour 
antifreeze into my raw water strainer...  I'll go with other 
solutions.   My back hurts thinking about that.  My strainer is not 
easily accessible.


My solution is similar to Rob's, but I just use a couple of feet of hose 
and the bucket sits on the cabin sole just forward of the engine.  I 
will run it while keeping the bucket filled by hose, until I decide the 
engine has warmed up (or I lose interest, whichever comes first).  I let 
the bucket drain and when it is pretty much empty I start dumping the 
antifreeze in.  Works for me.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-09-28 9:42 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:
What am i missing here? For 20+ years all I’ve done, is close the 
engine raw water in, run the engine while pouring a couple of gallons 
of antifreeze in through the top of the raw water strainer.  When it 
comes out pink at the exhaust end I stop. Once on the hard I open the 
raw water intake and let whatever remains in the intake hose drain. 
 Is this a purely an in-water issue?


John

On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:27 PM, robert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


David:

I do the same on the 'hard'remove the raw water hose in front of 
the raw water pump.connect a hose to the pump to a 5 gallon 
bucket in the cockpit with a running fresh water hose into the 
bucket...flush the engine of salt water with fresh water .heat 
the engine up.stop engine.empty bucket.then fill bucket 
with 2 gallons of antifreeze (1 gal. undiluted + 1 gal water 50% - 
50% mixture) .run until antifreeze exists transom.has worked 
that way for me for 10 years now.   Pretty simple.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax. N.S.


On 2015-09-28 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store 
that fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I 
got about 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into 
the intake and the other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I 
then start the engine and wait for the antifreeze to be sucked 
through and come out the exit port on the transom.  It takes 
surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming that 
means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat 
exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT


On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers,

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw 
water intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine 
easier — as things stand now, I need to close the through-hull, 
unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose in a tight little area.


Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you 
use?



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






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Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Jerome
I must disagree with that statement.  My sony tablet with built in GPS 
works perfectly below decks, it is what I use for anchor watch.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-02 12:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
Joe - that is a common misunderstanding.  While the Iphone does not 
need cell service for positioning it actually does use cell tower 
triangulation for position and is not very accurate or fast without 
it.   Moreover, if you are below deck you will not get an adequate GPS 
signal.  This is from the internet.



  MotionX-GPS


Does MotionX-GPS require a cellular network?

The iPhone 5, 4S, 4, 3GS and 3G use an A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) chipset 
which uses cell tower triangulation to speed up GPS signal 
acquisition. Cellular coverage is not needed to acquire a signal, 
however the signal acquisition will be much quicker if you have data 
coverage.
Without data services, it can take 15 minutes or longer to acquire a 
signal. This is simply because it takes longer to determine which 
satellites to use out of the 31 available around the world. With data 
services, it typically takes under a minute, but it can take up to 5 
minutes.



  How the iPhone knows where you are

By Glenn Fleishman , 
Macworld
iPhone users' experience with GPS is so quick, so instant-on, that 
Apple's Wednesday response about location tracking on iOS 
 
might almost seem baffling:


Calculating a phone’s location using just GPS satellite data can
take up to several minutes. iPhone can reduce this time to just a
few seconds by using Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower data to quickly
find GPS satellites.

Several minutes? Doesn't my iPhone take just seconds to figure out 
where I am?
Well, yes… but only when it engages in a set of tricks to avoid a 
lengthy process that was de rigueur when GPS receivers first appeared. 
In simplifying matters, Apple’s not being entirely accurate about how 
this all works and what it's doing. So let me explain where Wi-Fi and 
cell phone towers fit into the equation.



  12.5 minutes to locate

Early GPS receivers took 12.5 minutes from a cold start to obtain a 
lock; later locks in the same region could still take minutes. If you 
turned a GPS receiver off for a few weeks or moved it more than a few 
hundred miles, a cold start might be required again.
GPS relies on two factors to create a set of accurate coordinates for 
where you’re standing: time and space. GPS satellites broadcast 
precise time signals using a built-in atomic clock along with their 
current location. They also broadcast the location of all other 
satellites in the sky, called the almanac.
Every 30 seconds, a GPS satellite broadcasts a time stamp, its current 
location and some less precise location information for other GPS 
satellites. It takes 25 of these broadcasts (thus, 12.5 minutes) to 
obtain the full list of satellite locations. This information has to 
be decoded for a receiver to then properly interpret signals from the 
satellites that are within range.
If you know the position of four satellites and the time at which each 
sent their position information, you—or, rather, your GPS receiver—can 
calculate to within 10 meters the latitude, longitude, and elevation 
of your current location along with the exact current time. With three 
satellites, you lose elevation, but a device can still track movement 
fairly accurately. Standalone GPS receivers can lock in simultaneously 
on multiple satellites, and track more than four. Other techniques can 
improve accuracy, too.
But, heck, I don’t have 12.5 minutes. I’m a busy man! Give me that 
location faster!



  Giving GPS an assist

So GPS chip and gear makers came up with a host of ways to shorten the 
wait, called Assisted GPS (AGPS). Instead of relying on live downloads 
of position data from satellites, future locations can be estimated 
accurately enough to figure out rough satellite positions, and get a 
fix at which point even more up-to-date information is retrieved. 
These estimates can be downloaded via a network connection in seconds 
or even calculated right on a device.
The current time can also be used as a clue. With a precise current 
time, fragmentary satellite data can be decoded to gain a faster lock 
or figure out the appropriate information to use. In CDMA networks, 
such as that used by Verizon, GPS-synchronized atomic time is required 
for the network’s basic operations, making it a simple matter to have 
such information available. (In fact, CDMA cell towers have GPS units 
built in to maintain better atomic time synchronization.)These extras 
are what makes GPS into AGPS. Though a lot of people misunderstand 
AGPS and think it’s some faux GPS system, that’s not the case: AGPS 
requires a GPS receiver to work. Apple’s iPhone and 3G iPad models 
include AGPS,

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

It doesn't have a cell receiver, and it works very well offshore. During 
a recent offshore race I was watching the course while I was supposed to 
be sleeping.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-02 7:04 PM, Jerome Tauber wrote:
It works well below deck when you are in cell range.  How does it work 
below deck with just a GPS signal offshore?  I don't want to belabor 
the point.  Jerry


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Hi Jerome
I must disagree with that statement.  My sony tablet with built in 
GPS works perfectly below decks, it is what I use for anchor watch.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-10-02 12:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
Joe - that is a common misunderstanding.  While the Iphone does not 
need cell service for positioning it actually does use cell tower 
triangulation for position and is not very accurate or fast without 
it.   Moreover, if you are below deck you will not get an adequate 
GPS signal.  This is from the internet.



  MotionX-GPS


Does MotionX-GPS require a cellular network?

The iPhone 5, 4S, 4, 3GS and 3G use an A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) chipset 
which uses cell tower triangulation to speed up GPS signal 
acquisition. Cellular coverage is not needed to acquire a signal, 
however the signal acquisition will be much quicker if you have data 
coverage.
Without data services, it can take 15 minutes or longer to acquire a 
signal. This is simply because it takes longer to determine which 
satellites to use out of the 31 available around the world. With 
data services, it typically takes under a minute, but it can take up 
to 5 minutes.



  How the iPhone knows where you are

By Glenn Fleishman 
<http://www.macworld.com/author/Glenn-Fleishman/>, Macworld
iPhone users' experience with GPS is so quick, so instant-on, that 
Apple's Wednesday response about location tracking on iOS 
<http://www.macworld.com/article/159501/2011/04/apple_location_data_response.html> 
might almost seem baffling:


Calculating a phone’s location using just GPS satellite data can
take up to several minutes. iPhone can reduce this time to just
a few seconds by using Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower data to
quickly find GPS satellites.

Several minutes? Doesn't my iPhone take just seconds to figure out 
where I am?
Well, yes… but only when it engages in a set of tricks to avoid a 
lengthy process that was de rigueur when GPS receivers first 
appeared. In simplifying matters, Apple’s not being entirely 
accurate about how this all works and what it's doing. So let me 
explain where Wi-Fi and cell phone towers fit into the equation.



  12.5 minutes to locate

Early GPS receivers took 12.5 minutes from a cold start to obtain a 
lock; later locks in the same region could still take minutes. If 
you turned a GPS receiver off for a few weeks or moved it more than 
a few hundred miles, a cold start might be required again.
GPS relies on two factors to create a set of accurate coordinates 
for where you’re standing: time and space. GPS satellites broadcast 
precise time signals using a built-in atomic clock along with their 
current location. They also broadcast the location of all other 
satellites in the sky, called the almanac.
Every 30 seconds, a GPS satellite broadcasts a time stamp, its 
current location and some less precise location information for 
other GPS satellites. It takes 25 of these broadcasts (thus, 12.5 
minutes) to obtain the full list of satellite locations. This 
information has to be decoded for a receiver to then properly 
interpret signals from the satellites that are within range.
If you know the position of four satellites and the time at which 
each sent their position information, you—or, rather, your GPS 
receiver—can calculate to within 10 meters the latitude, longitude, 
and elevation of your current location along with the exact current 
time. With three satellites, you lose elevation, but a device can 
still track movement fairly accurately. Standalone GPS receivers can 
lock in simultaneously on multiple satellites, and track more than 
four. Other techniques can improve accuracy, too.
But, heck, I don’t have 12.5 minutes. I’m a busy man! Give me that 
location faster!



  Giving GPS an assist

So GPS chip and gear makers came up with a host of ways to shorten 
the wait, called Assisted GPS (AGPS). Instead of relying on live 
downloads of position data from satellites, future locations can be 
estimated accurately enough to figure out rough satellite positions, 
and get a fix at which point even more up-to-date information is 
retrieved. These estimates can be downloaded via a network 
connection in seconds or even calculated right on a device.
The current time can also be used as a clue. With a precise current 
time, fragmentary satellite data can be decoded to gain 

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

No, no.  Monty Python's Flying Circus!  Geeze, I wasn't expecting the 
Spanish inquisition!


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-02 10:20 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

And here I thought you were watching Bonanza down there.

On 10/2/2015 8:40 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
It doesn't have a cell receiver, and it works very well offshore.  
During a recent offshore race I was watching the course while I was 
supposed to be sleeping.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-10-02 7:04 PM, Jerome Tauber wrote:
It works well below deck when you are in cell range.  How does it 
work below deck with just a GPS signal offshore?  I don't want to 
belabor the point.  Jerry


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Hi Jerome
I must disagree with that statement.  My sony tablet with built in 
GPS works perfectly below decks, it is what I use for anchor watch.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-10-02 12:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
Joe - that is a common misunderstanding. While the Iphone does not 
need cell service for positioning it actually does use cell tower 
triangulation for position and is not very accurate or fast 
without it.   Moreover, if you are below deck you will not get an 
adequate GPS signal.  This is from the internet.



  MotionX-GPS


Does MotionX-GPS require a cellular network?

The iPhone 5, 4S, 4, 3GS and 3G use an A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) 
chipset which uses cell tower triangulation to speed up GPS signal 
acquisition. Cellular coverage is not needed to acquire a signal, 
however the signal acquisition will be much quicker if you have 
data coverage.
Without data services, it can take 15 minutes or longer to acquire 
a signal. This is simply because it takes longer to determine 
which satellites to use out of the 31 available around the world. 
With data services, it typically takes under a minute, but it can 
take up to 5 minutes.



  How the iPhone knows where you are

By Glenn Fleishman 
<http://www.macworld.com/author/Glenn-Fleishman/>, Macworld
iPhone users' experience with GPS is so quick, so instant-on, that 
Apple's Wednesday response about location tracking on iOS 
<http://www.macworld.com/article/159501/2011/04/apple_location_data_response.html> 
might almost seem baffling:


Calculating a phone’s location using just GPS satellite data
can take up to several minutes. iPhone can reduce this time to
just a few seconds by using Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower data
to quickly find GPS satellites.

Several minutes? Doesn't my iPhone take just seconds to figure out 
where I am?
Well, yes… but only when it engages in a set of tricks to avoid a 
lengthy process that was de rigueur when GPS receivers first 
appeared. In simplifying matters, Apple’s not being entirely 
accurate about how this all works and what it's doing. So let me 
explain where Wi-Fi and cell phone towers fit into the equation.



  12.5 minutes to locate

Early GPS receivers took 12.5 minutes from a cold start to obtain 
a lock; later locks in the same region could still take minutes. 
If you turned a GPS receiver off for a few weeks or moved it more 
than a few hundred miles, a cold start might be required again.
GPS relies on two factors to create a set of accurate coordinates 
for where you’re standing: time and space. GPS satellites 
broadcast precise time signals using a built-in atomic clock along 
with their current location. They also broadcast the location of 
all other satellites in the sky, called the almanac.
Every 30 seconds, a GPS satellite broadcasts a time stamp, its 
current location and some less precise location information for 
other GPS satellites. It takes 25 of these broadcasts (thus, 12.5 
minutes) to obtain the full list of satellite locations. This 
information has to be decoded for a receiver to then properly 
interpret signals from the satellites that are within range.
If you know the position of four satellites and the time at which 
each sent their position information, you—or, rather, your GPS 
receiver—can calculate to within 10 meters the latitude, 
longitude, and elevation of your current location along with the 
exact current time. With three satellites, you lose elevation, but 
a device can still track movement fairly accurately. Standalone 
GPS receivers can lock in simultaneously on multiple satellites, 
and track more than four. Other techniques can improve accuracy, too.
But, heck, I don’t have 12.5 minutes. I’m a busy man! Give me that 
location faster!



  Giving GPS an assist

So GPS chip and gear makers came up with a host of ways to shorten 
the wait, called Assisted GPS (AGPS). Instead of relying on live 
downloads of position data from satellites, future locations can 
be estimated accurately enough to figure out rough satellite 
positions, and get a fix at w

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

If you drill the head off can you get the remainder out?  I would go 
that route, or maybe use a grinder and dremel to grind it off.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-05 9:24 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
I have a 'pebble in my shoe' kind of problem.a small SS nut and 
bolt on my bimini is seizeddo I need to remove it , nobut it 
should be able to come apart should it need to.


I have applied PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, Liquid Wench.obviously, 
a product is not the answer.   I tried today (thanks to Mike Hoyt) the 
'tool' that can grip a 'stripped head'.all I was doing was 
stripping it further and giving my right hand a palm blister.


I might be able to get a hack saw blade between the head of the bolt 
and the SS tubing but it is going to be a challenge.


The bolt takes a 9 mm wrench, however, it is recessed so that getting 
a wrench on it with any force doesn't work either.  I can't turn the 
bolt and I can't turn the nut.  I could simply ignore the problem for 
now but someday I have to get this opened so I might as well not 
ignore the problem now.


Any and all suggestions are greatly welcomed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Actually probably easier to cut the nut off if it is accessible, you 
just need to get one side of it.  I'd rough cut with an angle grinder.  
Off the boat so sparks don't trash anything...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-05 10:19 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Josh:

The head of the bolt is too close to the SS tube to get a grip on it 
with a pair of vice-grips.and the nut is 'recessed' so it doesn't 
turn when you tighten or loosen the bolt.can't get vice-grip or a 
wrench on it .


Maybe try to cut the bolt head off is the viable option..I assume 
SS will be tough cut?


If I try to cut it, what would be the tool of choice?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&c 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-05 9:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


I've had some shocking success with vise-grips. Maybe try one on each 
side?  Maybe you'll get lucky and the bolt will just break.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 5, 2015 8:24 PM, "robert via CnC-List" > wrote:


I have a 'pebble in my shoe' kind of problem.a small SS nut
and bolt on my bimini is seizeddo I need to remove it ,
nobut it should be able to come apart should it need to.

I have applied PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, Liquid
Wench.obviously, a product is not the answer.   I tried today
(thanks to Mike Hoyt) the 'tool' that can grip a 'stripped
head'.all I was doing was stripping it further and giving my
right hand a palm blister.

I might be able to get a hack saw blade between the head of the
bolt and the SS tubing but it is going to be a challenge.

The bolt takes a 9 mm wrench, however, it is recessed so that
getting a wrench on it with any force doesn't work either.  I
can't turn the bolt and I can't turn the nut.  I could simply
ignore the problem for now but someday I have to get this opened
so I might as well not ignore the problem now.

Any and all suggestions are greatly welcomed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

+1 on the EV-200 system.  It steers like the boat is on rails. Maybe I 
exaggerate, but still...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-08 6:56 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

My wife is considering buying me an autopilot system for my 50th 
(YIKES!) birthday next year to replace our failing Robertson unit. She 
saw the video from the 2015 Northeast Rendezvous of Nader sitting in 
his cockpit eating lunch while the boat drove itself to Clinton and 
said “Oh you gotta have that!”


The Octopus hydraulic drive is already installed and I’m somewhat 
partial to the Raymarine EV-200 system (and Fred Street has pretty 
good pricing), but wanted to see if anyone else has recommendations on 
units I should look at.



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 








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Re: Stus-List VC17

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the 
interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly.  I've 
overcoated Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Brent,
That's weird.  I'm taking a quess.  Maybe there was some sanding dust 
on the hull after sanding?  Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped 
in a solvent, before painting?  Is it peeled off or worn off.  Got any 
pictures?



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
*To: *"C&C List" 
*Cc: *"Brent Driedger" 
*Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM
*Subject: *Stus-List VC17

Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving.
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my 
surprise that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I 
painted onto the hull within 6 inches of the waterline.
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random 
orbital sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was 
sanded flat and roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on 
as per the instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More 
where the water is turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull 
boats with intact bottom paint, even those who clean their hulls every 
couple of weeks.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the 
zebra mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. 
There were about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my 
rudder which like the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower 
horizontal surface.


Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Canadian Tire, $12.50

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-13 11:16 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Chuck et al:

I have not heard of the productwhere do you buy 
it?..automotive store, marine store, hardware store?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 11:04 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
Not sure why it works, but I saw improvement.  I add an ounce of 
SEAFOAM to each gallon of fuel and one ounce to each quart of oil.  I 
add it to the oil when I change it each Fall, and I add it to my 
boat's fuel tank just before I add fuel.  The can is 16oz and I only 
add 5 oz to the engine and 5 oz to the fuel tank when I pour in a 5 
gallon jerry can.  The balance of an open can goes into my car's gas 
tank.  It's very thin and seems to help starting and smooth running.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"robert via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"robert" 
*Sent: *Tuesday, October 13, 2015 9:47:52 PM
*Subject: *Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

Check this out:

http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-13 10:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

I suspect most old car guys are familiar with Seafoam. Though I
can't recall exactly what is in it. I've always used it as an
additive for gasoline engines - boat fuel, mower fuel, oil mix
for power tools and the outboard. I think of it as a better
alternative to Stabil.

Can't say as I've ever thought about it as Diesel additive, or
added it to engine oil. Might be a good thing to check out.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 13, 2015, at 20:43, Chuck S via CnC-List
 wrote:

Hi Rick,
A friend who works on cars and has a 32 foot sailboat for 25
years that looks better than new, suggested I use *SeaFoam
*in both fuel and engine oil.  It's inexpensive and seems to
make starting much easier, so I've been using that for the
last 8 years.  I use Bio-Flo Jr when I top off the tank for
winter.  Any thoughts on SeaFoam?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


*From: *"Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *"Rick Brass" 
*Sent: *Monday, October 12, 2015 8:52:03 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Deisel Fuel Additives?

All diesel is made to the same set of standards. The red
stuff just has a dye  in it to indicate that the highway fuel
tax has not been paid.

When your engine was built, diesel fuel had 5000 parts per
million of Sulphur content. The Sulphur was a significant
factor in lubricating the injection pump, injectors, etc.

In the mid to late 90s, in anticipation of the Tier 2
emissions standards, Low Sulphur diesel became mandatory.
Sulphur content was reduced to 500 PPM, and lubricity
additives were incorporated in the fuel.

In the middle of the last decade, in anticipation of Tier 3
emission standards, Ultra Low Sulphur diesel became
mandatory. Sulphur content on current fuel is 15 PPM. A new
Tier 3 engine is designed to run on ULS fuel, just like a new
gas engine is designed for ethanol.

Yanmar, Cummins, and Perkins (the 3 brands of diesels I used
to teach technicians about) all recommend that you add a
lubricity additive to your fuel if your engine was built
before Tier 3 and ULS diesel became the norm. For our size
engines that means about 2010 (1 year later in Canada). The
service bulletins from Yanmar and Cummins (which I
unfortunately lost when the laptop’s hard drive went up in
smoke) both specifically recommend the additive from Stanadyne.

Even though my Universal M35B is a Tier 3 version, I still
add Standyne lubricity additive (although I do occasional use
a product from Lucas). It can’t hurt.

I also put BioBor JR in the fuel as an algaecide and try to
keep my tank full during winter storage. As Josh said, the
nasties live in the water in the tank and eat the diesel
(don’t get me started on bio-diesel). An algaecide and
reducing the chances of condensation in the tank are good
policy for avoiding fuel filter problems.

I’ve used about 2 tanks of fuel this year, so I’m not
concerned with the duel degrading in storage like you get
with ethanol stored in a boat. Diesel can generally be stored
for about two years without significant degradation.

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC

Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I've got my p70 on the right side of the companionway - otherwise I 
would have an empty hole, or would have to buy another multifunction 
display.  I've got an a75 at the wheel pedestal (thanks Fred!) and that 
can activate and tweak the pilot settings, so I can control it either 
place.  The setup works well.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-17 10:22 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
Dave, I originally put my p70 on the right side of the companionway. 
BIG mistake. My reasoning for putting it there was that if i was to 
engage the autohelm, i was leaving the helm anyway. Didn't work out 
like that, it's just too far away and I had to go forward every time I 
made a course change or I would forget to disengage as I came up from 
below.
I have now relocated the p70 to the pedestal above the compass. I 
mounted it in a waterproof plastic enclosure from Hammond. Now, I use 
it as a multifunction display ( 6 data boxes) as well as Auto.

Mike Amirault
C&C33ii  Lovely Cruise
SMSC


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Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

How about "If they can beat Fred's price..."

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-19 11:35 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:

If it seems too good to be true...

http://www.scamadviser.com/check-website/sale-tools.com

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 19, 2015, at 8:58 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Wow - that is a great price.  I have Raymarine speed / depth on my 
new boat (no wind instrument at all), a Garmin plotter and Furuno 
radar.  It would be worth replacing the speed / depth to get a modern 
package that integrates natively with the plotter at that price.  
Please let me know what you find about the vendor.


Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 9:19 AM, Stevan Plavsa via 
CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>wrote:


I'm actually considering this:

http://www.sale-tools.com/products/Garmin-Ultimate-Sailing-Bundle-GWS%252dDST800%252d3-GMI.html

My concern is just the reputation of the vendor, not so much the
product.

Cheers,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto/Midland





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Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I've never had great luck yelling at the people at the Binnacle, but 
maybe you are more persuasive than I am...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-19 4:45 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Mark,
if you find an autopilot for under $1000, let me know. Defender had 
(still has?) a boat show special, but even with their discounts, when 
you add the conversion to CAD, it is a lot of money. Not to mention 
that if you buy at Binnacle you have someone local to yell at, if 
anything goes wrong.
I don’t think Garmin has a wheel option; they are all (?) suing a 
linear drive (I think).

Marek
*From:* Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Monday, October 19, 2015 3:27 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Dr. Mark Bodnar 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

Steve,
I'm interested to know how it works out.
I could use new instruments (mine are just original depth and speed 
from 1986) - plus I've been hankering for a autopilot.
That site is selling a Raymarine SPX-5 Wheelpilot for $675 (vs $1900 
for a EV-100 kit from Binnacle). 
http://www.sale-tools.com/products/Raymarine-SPX%252d5-Wheelpilot-Pack-with-p70.html


From what I can find the SPX-5 is ~7yrs old.  Any thoughts from the 
group on the value of newer technology? I could add the ST60 pack for 
$659 (rather than $1800 for a current set). and still spend less than 
I was thinking for just an autopilot. -- I'm guessing it's smarter to 
match the Raymarine autopilot with the Raymarine instruments rather 
than the Garmin.


Both use the NMEA2000 and SeaTalk - so they should work together and 
with other gear.


Any thoughts?  If it's just older gear at a good price then might be a 
good deal.. Ok  - A little searching for reviews looks like the 
site is bogus.
Just for interest I tried entering an order using fake address etc - 
they want a bank transfer sent - do not accept credit cards or even 
PayPal!


Shoot.  Enough to get my hopes up.

Mark
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana
On 2015-10-19 10:19 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I'm actually considering this:
http://www.sale-tools.com/products/Garmin-Ultimate-Sailing-Bundle-GWS%252dDST800%252d3-GMI.html
My concern is just the reputation of the vendor, not so much the product.
Cheers,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto/Midland
On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 9:00 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Sorry – just re-read this. Thought the prices were from Defender.

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt, Mike
via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, October 19, 2015 9:56 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Hoyt, Mike


*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

Steve

The ST60 instruments are very reliable.  At  that price you
should stop thinking and start spending.  You will not regret it

IMO the ST60 series is more robust and superior to the newer
i50/i60 (which we have)

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf
Of *dwight veinot via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, October 18, 2015 1:59 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* dwight veinot
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

Steve

I have had the st 60 pack on Alianna for 7 or 8 years now and I
really like it, big numbers easy to read and no big issues with
any component yet.  that is a very good price

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, */Alianna/*

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net

On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 2:47 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
 wrote:

Hi, anyone ever buy anything from sale-tools.com
?


http://www.sale-tools.com/categories/Marine-Electronics/Fishfinders%7B47%7DChartplotters/

Their prices on marine electronics are unbelievable (literally).
Seems fishy but I figured it's worth asking. Some of their stuff
is older so it makes sense that it would be cheap (ST60 three
pack for ~700 etc).

Thoughts?

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Midland


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Re: Stus-List boom

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hello Harald
Mine did that when we bought the boat, ours was noisy when the main was 
up though.  The issue we had was that the horizontal pin in the 
gooseneck had worn the holes oblong, so they were not a nice fit on the 
pin any more.  I bought a couple of brass bushings, drilled out the hole 
oversized, and pressed them in with a c-clamp.  This has been quiet for 
a number of years now (I think 3, maybe 4, not sure).


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-22 12:24 PM, Harald Braun via CnC-List wrote:
Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful 
squecking, grinding noise, once the main was down. I lubed it and 
still no luck. Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any 
suggestions?


Harald
Kitchener, On

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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

We all are still praying, Mike and I hold regular meetings.  Amen 
brother, amen!


Hey, saw Mike's new boat last weekend, it is a sweet ride!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-22 4:53 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Rick:

I bought 3 gallons of Micron 66 4 years agoshould be the same 
formula.each Spring, I put a light coat of the 66 paint on the 
bottomthe 3 gallons has now been consumed.  And there is Micron 
CSC under the 66.   I saw a boat hauled yesterday with CSC paint that 
lies about 200 feet from my boat in the mooring field and not one 
barnacle that I could see on the bottom..a few on prop and shaft 
but not many.


Next Spring will see a 'fresh coat'..just not sure what paint it 
will be.


I think Rich Knowles, out of Nanimo, B.C. , is still having 'prayer 
meetings' directing the marine growth to my boat and not all the others.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-22 4:40 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List wrote:

Rob,

It isn't really clear, did you put a fresh coat on each spring or is 
this

four years use on the same application?
If it's the former, they may have changed the formula.  If it's the 
latter
you probably just used up all the copper in the paint and it's time 
for a

fresh coat.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
robert

via CnC-List
Sent: October-22-15 16:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint

For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3
seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no
slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.

This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with 
barnaclesnot a
few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, 
which
removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but 
there are

still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will sand them out
completely or simply paint over them next Spring.

Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

On a further antifouling paint story, years back in the Binnacle, a 
fellow
sailor/racer approached the shelves of antifouling paintshe stops 
and
pulls out a brass 'fishing scale'..I watch..he puts a gallon 
of a

brand on the scale, then another, and another, etc.  He
chooses a gallon.   Naturally, I had to go over and ask what he was
doing "weighing the amount of copper in each paint Bob.this gallon
weighs the most and that's the one I am putting on 'Apocalypse', his 
40 ft,

home made in his back yard, race machine.

Maybe that's how I will choose my next gallon of antifouling paint!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4450/10870 - Release Date: 
10/22/15



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Re: Stus-List List is working

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Boat came out on Friday.  :-(

On the plus side once again the prayer meetings worked, not much growth 
on my boat (and lots on Bob's boat!).  This was my third season on a 
coat of Micron CSC, a few barnacles but nothing significant.  There is a 
J29 at the club that has VC Offshore on it, apparently it sat 2 months 
unused, and man that thing was a barnacle festival!  End to end.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-25 7:46 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
It’s okay.  The list is working.  Everybody must be getting ready for 
lift-out.

Stu


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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179. :-)
Now I need a 12v WiFi router.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Just spent $200 on a flyer:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin

If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.

--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Never even looked at it, but that makes sense.  I'll have to see what 
router is most energy efficient.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-28 5:48 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:
Most wifi routers are 12v. Just cut off the 110v power brick. Did this 
on our router/boat. Works the same.


On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 1:39 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179. :-)
Now I need a 12v WiFi router.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Just spent $200 on a flyer:


https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin

If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.

-- 
Joel

301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 125

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

A wise man says: there are two kinds of fools.  One says this is old and 
therefore good.  The other says this is new and therefore better...


I think a fair bit of the attitude here is of the why fix what works 
type thinking.  Are there newer, fancier, singing and dancing forums?  
Sure.  But if things moved would some people drop off? Probably.


And given that there are a few non C&C owners who are on this forum it 
must have some utility above and beyond the unique C&C questions.


Thanks Stu!  Great forum.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-31 10:14 PM, Janko Puls via CnC-List wrote:

Hello list, Bill, and Dennis,
Thanks, Dennis, for this helpful and constructive advice. I'll try to 
organize this in thread view in gmail.
Bill, thanks for pointing this out. It was and is not my intention to 
step on any seasoned list veteran's toes. I just joined the list this 
summer and merely asked why this fantastic, knowledgable group clings 
to a seriously outdated technical approach which makes it IMHO hard to 
read and fickle to contribute when there are so many easier solutions 
around. I am well aware that this is the place where I find the 
collective C&C wisdom. That is why I am here (and a regular on the 
website). I hope to learn from you all and certainly want to 
contribute my part.
I can see why you are a bit crabby because you are tired of a debate 
of which I didn't know, and certainly have no interest in rekindling - 
I simply tried to contribute a thought.
I still fail to understand though why the contents - the brain trust 
of a group - would mandate an oudated techical approach. A break up? 
Seriously? Google, Facebook, pretty much anyone who offers a user 
interface online changes and (mostly) improves it permanently, I think 
that a interest in our topic, the C&C, could wheather that. Especially 
people who can tame a list. But enough of that. Hush.
Why would it offend anyone to ask the obvious? Maybe the archive can 
answer that rather than an active member. I am curious to learn about 
the advantages of a list over a forum. Since we winterized 'Messing 
About' today, I can chew now through some miles of redundant, 
unclipped material in the lis archives. I have done that before, and 
THAT is a painful experience.
Don't get me wrong, this list is a treasure trove. In my humble 
opinion it deserves technical improvement when it serves all members - 
and I think it's worth considering if you are interested in younger 
members - on the water and online.

Sorry for asking, no harm intended.
Best,
Janko
--
Point of View New York City: A Game of The City You THINK You Know
A photo book by Janko Puls.

+++ Photos, reviews and more at www.pointofviewnyc.com or 
www.facebook.com/pointofviewnyc +++

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2015 09:14:07 -0400
From: Bill Bina 

This has been discussed at painful lengths and was settled long ago. A
forum would break up this well established community and you would lose
most of the brain-trust of long-time list members, who have been here
CONTRIBUTING regularly for well over a decade. There are plenty of
forums out there, if that is what you want. If you want the collective
wisdom of all of the long-time regulars here, this is where you will
find them. The website backs up the list with a permanent library of
resources and articles pertaining to C&C

There is also a digest form of this list if that is your issue.

We don't need another 100 post thread about this. It has been discussed
to death.

Bill Bina

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2015 09:22:19 -0500
From: "Dennis C." 

Many emails can be set to thread view. I use gmail in thread view. Easy
to follow a particular thread or to ignore it.

Dennis C.



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Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Joe
I've got a unit like Mike's Heatercraft, under the settee, and I've got 
a two vent unit under the v-berth, this feeds into the v-berth and also 
into the head.  I'm running an Espar though, not running it off the 
engine.  Works great.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-11-03 12:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Does anyone have hot water cabin heat?

I am converting my engine to FWC and am planning to install a cabin 
heater. I am wondering if anyone has done this and where they put the 
heater. I am not looking forward to buying 70 feet of hose, but I 
think having the heater forward will work better than back aft.


Joe

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I



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Re: Stus-List 1974 C&C 30-1 keel

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

You have a calibrated rock?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-12-16 2:02 AM, Joseph Bognar via CnC-List wrote:

I own a 1979 shoal draft version . It's definitely 4'6" deep

Sent from Joe Bognar


On Dec 15, 2015, at 10:05 PM, jtsails via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


There were definitely two keel options on the 1974 30’. The deep 
draft keel was 5’ and the shoal draft was 4’ 3”. We owned a shoal 
draft version. not sure how the ad came up with a 4’7” measurement.

James
Delaney
C&C 38 1976
Oriental, NC
*From:* andrew rothweiler via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, December 15, 2015 9:25 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* andrew rothweiler 
*Subject:* Stus-List 1974 C&C 30-1 keel
  Looking at a '74 30-1 for sale, and have a question about the keel 
depth.

The ad says the keel is 4'7".
Ads for other  30-1s say the keel is 5'.
Sailboat data says the keel is 5' , but the profile drawing of the 
boat on the site shows a dotted line along the keel that looks like 
it is showing an alternate shoal keel.
Can someone confirm there were two keel options on the 1974 30-1?  
What are the accurate keel depths?

Thanks in advance for your help.


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Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

My anchor locker and cockpit lockers are piano hinged, factory original.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-12-22 9:24 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:

Patrick,

I don’t think the piano hinges on your anchor locker are original C&C. 
  I have 6” SS strap hinges which are bolted through the cover and the 
deck.  I replaced mine old broken hinges with new ones, overfilling 
the old holes with thickened epoxy and re-drilling as typically 
suggested.  No problems with leaks.  Here’s a link to the hinge: 
http://www.marinepartdepot.com/hedustststhi2.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Dec 22, 2015, at 3:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:


Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 10:53:04 -0800
From: Patrick Davin mailto:jda...@gmail.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

Subject: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
Message-ID:
>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid
attachment.

C&C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they
thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor 
locker lid

hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because several
screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The surprise was it 
looks

like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood coring. Screws in wood
core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck takes the most 
waves,

and when at dock it's always humid from rain)

Pictures:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0&usp=sharing

Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm 
that it's

cored, or am I on the crazy pills?

The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is
about 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the
toe rail. Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant
differences, so I think the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It 
seems
like if they had made the anchor locker an inch or so wider, they 
wouldn't
have had to screw in to coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't 
thick
enough to fit the screws. Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core 
from each

hole, dry it out for 3-7 days (which may not be doable till the summer),
fill with thickened epoxy and redrill.

-Patrick
1984 C&C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA




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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

If you are reasonably handy then you can install it.  Best to drop the 
mast, but it can be done mast up if you can keep the forestay. And 
keeping the forestay will depend on what furler you go with, I've got a 
Harken cruising unit #1, had to change the forestay when I installed it.


I'd go with a new sail, but then it is really easy to recommend to 
someone else that they spend their money...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-01-05 10:24 PM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:

I have mostly light winds here in Beaufort SC.
So out to 150% or at least a 135% would be best.
But, Can I install it? do I keep my forstay?


On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:11 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Congrats!
My 2 cents:

15 - 25 year old sails are shot.  I don't know what your wind
conditions are like, but I would buy a Harken furler and a good
Dacron sail that covers most of your wind conditions.Partially
furled sails are not great upwind, but are fine for cruising.
It will cost several hundred dollars each to convert the old
sails.  You might be better off picking up a used #3 and
converting the #1 or vice versa depending on condition.
You can stay within your budget if you shop around.
If you are happy with the sock, keep it.

Joel.


On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Curtis via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail
and furler system for my C&C30MK1.  1981 1/4 ss wire

Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to
proceed. I have a 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I
have a asymmetrical in a sock as well.

My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.

I'm looking for advise on the complete package.

1) can I install it?

2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?

3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out
and buy new?

3) Asy furler?

Thanks for your help



Capt,Curtis McDaniel

Dataw island Marina

843-838-8410  Office

_http://www.datawmarina.com/_


/* __/) */

.





-- 
Joel

301 541 8551 

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--

*/Best regards,/*

*/Curtis McDaniel,
/*

*/C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
/*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that 
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. 
Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. 
Explore. Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain

http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

**

*cpt.b...@gmail.com *

**

/* __/) */

.





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Re: Stus-List Refinish/repaint breaker panels?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Joel
I had to replace my AC panel, at some point it had a meter in it which 
had died and been torn out, looked bad.  And I wanted to fit a VHF 
adjacent.  So I had 2 rectangles cut and I drilled as required, and 
painted with black "hammered finish" spray - looks great.  And when I 
later replaced the panel above it I could easily paint to match.


Paneltronics will let you pick the exact labels you want and just buy 
them, so you don't end up with labels for "trim tab" and "annoyingly 
loud stereo"...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-01-12 10:06 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
The black paint on the aluminum breaker panels looks its age.  has 
anyone either stripped to repainted theirs? I need to redo the labels 
anyhow.


--
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List ab inflatables

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Buying a sailrite machine was one of my better spends.  No regrets.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-04 12:08 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
Bill, I know how you feel. I watch the videos on the sailrite website 
and think "man, I MUST have that". And then the feeling goes away when 
I think of all the projects I have to do. Making my own cushions is 
way down the list of priorities. However, I do need a new sail 
cover... and will need new dodger and bimini too...


and so it goes.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 10:28 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Is it valuable enough to take on the boat with you?

I watched the fellow from Sailrite demo that at Annapolis, and I
was so spellbound watching him make upholstery piping and such I
was getting my credit card out, but then some woman started
talking at him, and she seemed more interested, so I backed off
and the feeling went away.   I am sure it is not as easy as he
made it look.

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

. And sew yourself a dinghy cover.  Tropical sun will
 disintegrate anything.  For circumnavigation Sailrite sewing
machine is worth its weight in gold.

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington RI


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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hey!  That's me!!! :-)

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-06 11:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
One of our fellow CnC listers did a Hydronic install in his own boat 
and had an article published in the magazine Good Old Boat about it:



  HOT WATER, WARM BOAT
  BY GRAHAM COLLINS

A hydronic system extends the sailing (and showering) season. Our C&C 
35, Secret Plans, was previously used as a racing boat, so the 
hot-water system was stripped out at some time before we purchased 
her. As I’m not a fan of cold showers, this had to be addressed. We 
also wanted to be able to heat the boat so we could extend our 
cruising season a bit longer into the spring and fall. We keep the 
boat on a mooring, so shorepower is not typically available. The 
available fuel sources were diesel and propane, and we wanted to 
install only one system...


*Article Number:* 5583
*Issue:* 86 - September/October 2012
*Page No:* 27-29
*Read Online:* Not Available Online


On 6 February 2016 at 11:48, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from
Lake Ontario I have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in
addition to heat we would have hot water.  So, every year when I
go to the Seattle Boat show I gather materials and every the the
amount of boat bucks, and my fear of screwing the installation up
makes me put it off another year.

Anyone have a hydronic setup?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200 


> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
> From: Russ & Melody mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> Message-ID:
>   

>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I should have listed install location in the
> "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>
> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
> unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
> on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
> Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be
overlooked.
>
> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
> location with proper venting is the same for
> both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
> tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
> if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
> going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
> get a little impulse pump similar to what the
> Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
> the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
> easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
> outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
> tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
> use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>
> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
> retirement cruising I will have both types of
> heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> Vancouver Island
>
>
> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>
>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
>> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
>> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>> favourite things. But the only units worth
>> getting are expensive wood stove types, which
>> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
>> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
>> appealing because it's out of the way. The
>> problem for me with the diesel newport is the
>> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
>> really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
>> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
>> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
>> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about
>> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about
>> them is good however and to your point, maybe
>> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's
>> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
>> via CnC-List <>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> wrote:
>> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use
>> a propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6
>

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is 
clear of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 
'to the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you 
have flammable vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...


And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two 
while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be 
adequate.


I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off 
batteries all the time and have never had an issue.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I'm reading the marine installation manual 
 
and have some questions:


- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not 
allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a 
gasoline tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from 
installing one of these?


- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small 
that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in 
the lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a 
separate tank?


Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa > wrote:


Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere
behind the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat
likely). With the espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment.
Also with the newport, this is pretty much how i have to mount it:

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't
optimal either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and
the venting, I'm not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the
newport.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of
the Newport heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2
has a huge advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be
overlooked. The Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat,
also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with
proper venting is the same for both, so diesel odour is a
wash, so to speak. The tank can be almost anywhere for either
unit and if elevation is such that gravity feed is not going
to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a little impulse
pump similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about putting
the tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything outside. Either
heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at
up to 1 gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less
for the D2.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising
I will have both types of heaters so I won't need to choose
which one is best. :)

Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be
honest, I like the idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood
fire is one of my favourite things. But the only units worth
getting are expensive wood stove types, which are super nice,
but I can't justify the expense and they have drawbacks on a
boat. The espar is appealing because it's out of the way. The
problem for me with the diesel newport is the fuel. I have an
A4 powered boat and one thing I really like about my boat is
that it doesn't smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere inside and I'm not
sure where I'de have space, maybe in the hanging locker. I'm
concerned about the diesel smell. Most of what I've read
about them is good however and to your point, maybe more heat
than the D2, less money for sure. It's still an option, will
my boat smell like diesel?Â

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use a
propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6 hrs on a
small canister, but it's not dry heat. It takes th

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Bill
It might be worth contacting Espar about it, I don't think that should 
be running like that.  The D5 I'm running is a fair sized unit, and 
startup has never been a big power hit.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-06 5:17 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:


Graham,
   Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner 
installed in port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well 
done, but he told me about current draw and starting engine to get it 
going.  After its running seems to do fine off twin house batteries.

Bill Walker
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail




On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:


The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is 
clear of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 
'to the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you 
have flammable vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...


And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or 
two while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank 
would be adequate.


I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off 
batteries all the time and have never had an issue.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I'm reading the marine installation manual

<http://www.esparofmichigan.com/techsupport/pdfs/Marine%20installations/Airtronic%20marine_installation_manual.pdf>
and have some questions:

- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must
not allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I
have a gasoline tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude
me from installing one of these?

- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something
small that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into
place in the lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if
using a separate tank?

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa
mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin
(somewhere behind the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker
on my boat likely). With the espar/webasto, it's in the engine
compartment. Also with the newport, this is pretty much how i
have to mount it:

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side
isn't optimal either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank
actually, and the venting, I'm not really sure where I'de
locate a tank for the newport.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
 wrote:


Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list
of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The
D2 has a huge advantage on heat output on low settings,
not to be overlooked. The Admiral & I are a big fan of
radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with
proper venting is the same for both, so diesel odour is a
wash, so to speak. The tank can be almost anywhere for
either unit and if elevation is such that gravity feed is
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a
little impulse pump similar to what the Espar uses. I
would see about putting the tank in the cockpit combing
area, that's high enough and easy to fit a deck fill to
keep everything outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4
gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement
cruising I will have both types of heaters so I won't need
to choose which one is best. :)

Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters,
to be honest, I like the idea of solid fuel the most.
A proper wood fire is one of my favourite things. But
the only 

Re: Stus-List Nav Station Panel and Volt Meter Recommendations

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Datel meters rule.  Epoxy sealed, totally.  2 wire, low current draw.  
Available from digikey.com


Meter: Datel DMS-20PC-0-DCM-C$50.00

Panel mount bezel DMS-BZL3$ 4.00

I've got two (one for each battery bank) and an AC Voltage meter.  They 
will outlive me.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-15 2:30 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:


Greeting all,

One of my winter projects is to replace the black panel at the top of 
my nav station.  The current panel was the home to my old B&G speed, 
depth, and wind computers.  Their removal last spring left several 
gaping holes.  I’d like to start with a fresh panel and install a volt 
meter and eventually some other items.  The panel is 1/8” thick with a 
matte black finish.  It appears to be some sort of fiberboard product.


I have been looking at plastic panel materials at McMaster-Carr, but 
I’m not really sure which kind to get.  Plastic sheeting comes in so 
many different materials.  I’m sure someone here has replaced theirs 
at some point.  This is the same type of material used for the circuit 
breaker panel.  What works and looks like the original stuff?


The first instrument to go into the new panel will be a volt meter.  
My B&G instruments had one built-in, but they’re gone now.  It seems 
there are only two options for digital volt meters; the high dollar 
Blue Seas meters (pricey) and the cheap Chinese meters that run 
$15-25. I’m looking to install a single meter with a toggle switch to 
test both batteries separately.  Does anyone have a source for a 
reasonably priced digital volt meter?


Right now I’m looking at something like this: 
http://www.sears.com/niceeshop-tm-mini-2-wire-dc-4.5-30v/p-SPM7958467523


Thanks,

Jake

*Jake Brodersen*

*C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*

*Hampton VA*



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Re: Stus-List Nav Station Panel and Volt Meter Recommendations

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Battery monitors are kinda a voodoo type instrument, if you don't wave 
the chicken just right your reading is meaningless.  If / when I get the 
desire to put in a battery monitor I will go with a Balmar Smart Gauge 
, from what I've read it 
is a good product.  At $320 (Defender) it has not gotten to the top of 
the required upgrades list yet...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-15 7:52 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


I replaced the original voltmeter on my 38 with a Blue Sea Systems 3 
bank digital meter. It was a bit pricey, I thought (I did find one on 
EBay for quite a bit less than it would have been at WM or any other 
chandlery), but since I’ve had it I have become a fan and think the 
expense justified.


But after taking a trip on a friend’s cruising boat I became sold on 
the advantages of the Link battery monitor, and installed a Link Lite 
on Imzadi. If I were to start over, I would forgo the Blue Seas 
monitor or any other voltmeter and go right to the Link Lite.


Battery voltage doesn’t really tell you a heck of a lot about the 
batteries. The Link monitor shows voltage, instantaneous current in or 
out, Amp-hours taken out of the batteries, and percentage of total 
capacity remaining. The Link Lite I have shows that information for 
one (my house) bank, and shows voltage information for the start 
battery. There is also a Link Pro that shows everything for both banks.


I bought the Link Lite on Ebay at a reasonable price. I only see two 
on there right now, but my search was kind of cursory. Here is a link 
to one of the monitors on EBay; 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xantrex-Link-LITE-Battery-Monitor-84-2030-00-BRAND-NEW-FREE-SHIP-/322007589666?hash=item4af925e322:g:3yoAAOSwezVWv1bv&vxp=mtr


Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Jake Brodersen via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, February 15, 2016 1:30 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Jake Brodersen 
*Subject:* Stus-List Nav Station Panel and Volt Meter Recommendations

Greeting all,

One of my winter projects is to replace the black panel at the top of 
my nav station.  The current panel was the home to my old B&G speed, 
depth, and wind computers.  Their removal last spring left several 
gaping holes.  I’d like to start with a fresh panel and install a volt 
meter and eventually some other items.  The panel is 1/8” thick with a 
matte black finish.  It appears to be some sort of fiberboard product.


I have been looking at plastic panel materials at McMaster-Carr, but 
I’m not really sure which kind to get.  Plastic sheeting comes in so 
many different materials.  I’m sure someone here has replaced theirs 
at some point.  This is the same type of material used for the circuit 
breaker panel.  What works and looks like the original stuff?


The first instrument to go into the new panel will be a volt meter.  
My B&G instruments had one built-in, but they’re gone now. It seems 
there are only two options for digital volt meters; the high dollar 
Blue Seas meters (pricey) and the cheap Chinese meters that run 
$15-25.  I’m looking to install a single meter with a toggle switch to 
test both batteries separately.  Does anyone have a source for a 
reasonably priced digital volt meter?


Right now I’m looking at something like this: 
http://www.sears.com/niceeshop-tm-mini-2-wire-dc-4.5-30v/p-SPM7958467523


Thanks,

Jake

*Jake Brodersen*

*C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*

*Hampton VA*



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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing again.

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Deep Blue Yacht Supply - give them a call.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-21 6:02 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:


I finally got my shaft coupling removed and the shaft pulled.
This allowed me to get an accurate measurement of the bearing strut 
diameter. It is without a doubt 1 5/8". The shaft is 1 1/4".

I cannot find a replacement anywhere for this size.
WTH do I do now?
Do I install a sleeve of copper pipe into which I press the bearing?
I am at my wits end with this.

Brian
La Neige
37/40 xl
Havre de Grace MD.
https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/



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Re: Stus-List Sail loft service

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Halifax Doyle and North, yes, other local lofts - maybe not so much.

10 years ago I had an Aloha 27.  Great boat.  Out sailing one day at the 
end of the season the main ripped from just under the clew grommet for 
the first reefing point, all the way to the mast.  Took it in to a local 
loft, said "if it is worth putting a patch on do it, but if the sail is 
toast don't bother, I will replace it".  I got charged $150 for a repair 
and then on my way out the door was informed that I really needed a new 
main.  Thanks!


So that year I got quotes from the local North loft (who are not the 
loft described above), from Mack Sails in Florida (recommended by a 
friend), and Lee Sails in Hong Kong.  Lee kicked ass on both dealing 
with me, price, and performance.  I had to measure for the sail, no big 
deal.


Last sail I bought was a 135, two years ago.  I had quotes from Lee 
again, local North, and two others.  North was a good price, I could 
have saved $100 going with Lee but that is close enough that I will 
happily pay the "local" premium.  Very happy with the sail.


My conclusion - I'm not blindly going with local for romantic reasons.  
If they are in the ballpark I'm happy to go with them - I do this on 
boat parts because I want the local guys to survive, plus I get it right 
away - so saving $10 by buying it from Defender isn't worth it.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-25 11:26 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
I echo Mike's experience with the local sail lofts here.I have 
also had nothing but excellent service and relations with both Doyle 
and North over the years.


It's the people that make the difference and the people at both lofts 
here are very connected to the local sailing community..they know 
many of us on a first name basis.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-02-25 11:13 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Steve

I am glad to hear that you had a positive experience with your 
overseas loft.  I am also very dismayed to hear of your experiences 
with your local sailmakers


I would like to say that in the last 17 years of boat ownership we 
have had nothing short of excellent service and relations with the 
local lofts in Halifax.  We have dealt with both Doyle in Dartmouth 
and North Sails Atlantic in Halifax.  The friendliness, turnaround 
and workmanship of both have been first rate.


Unfortunately I will have to win a lottery before I can by any more 
sails.


Fortunately I do not currently need any more

Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, February 25, 2016 10:57 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Stevan Plavsa
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Got a New 135% Head Sail

I purchased a Rolly Tasker 155 a couple of years ago for Suhana. It's 
a good sail but like the OP, I have nothing to compare it against 
except the original genoa which was deteriorating. So, leagues better 
than what I had. It was $1600 shipped to my door from Thailand and 
arrived two weeks after I placed the order. The local lofts all 
wanted about double for same/similar features and a lot more time.


Here's the rub and here's where I disagree with people on this list 
and others that tout the "support" and "cusomter service" of the 
local guys. I was treated better by the foreign sail loft. They 
answered my emails in a timely way, they were polite and 
/interested/. The locals, almost all of them, had a standoffish, 
almost arrogant attitude and they were slow to provide pricing and 
email replies. to me, that's terrible customer service. First and 
foremost, I want to be treated like a valued customer and that starts 
with the first hello, it doesn't start after I open my checkbook and 
they come out to my boat.


No thanks.

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto



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Re: Stus-List : Running cable in the mast

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

And if you replace the lights with LED versions you can probably go down 
a wire size - so less stuff in the conduit.


Anyone know if the mast on a 35-3 has a conduit in it?  I suspect not, 
but have not actually looked.  And I get lots of wire slap.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-03-01 9:15 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:
In my opinion, when you find 30-year old lamp cord, replace it before 
it fails or worse yet, shorts out your electrical system.  My bilge 
pump even used lamp cord originally!  Use good Anchor-brand tinned 
wire of an appropriate size.


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
(presently in Baltimore)
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as 
simply messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Mar 1, 2016, at 10:42 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I used the cable tie method to gather in all my wires (no conduit in 
mast) and left the tails on. It works pretty well, you still get some 
wire slap, and I’m not sure why, but it is not annoying enough to 
deter sleep. Maybe heavier cable ties would center the bundle better 
– mine are just the standard Lowe’s versions.


If there’s a large hole in the masthead fitting, I would get a tube 
of rain gutter caulk and fill it up – this stuff is very sticky and 
adheres well – better than anything else I’ve tried. I like Joel’s 
idea of using a halyard exit fitting to help keep the rain from 
coming in, but I have found you will get water down the mast from the 
sheave exits and shroud fittings anyway.


There are all sorts of rubber grommets to put around cables as they 
exit the mast – again try an electrical supply place of home 
improvement store. The in-cabin exit was filed smooth on my boat, and 
I’ve left it that way and have had no problems in over 20 years. And, 
you spreader light wire is indeed lamp cord – fix it if you think you 
need to, I haven’t and it still works fine.


Just something to keep you awake at night….and there is no “right 
way” – it is just your preference at this time – if you want “right” 
go find a Swan and look at their plumbing and electrical setups and 
then open your wallet wide.


Gary

30-1

Maryland

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Joel Aronson via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 10:06 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Joel Aronson >

*Subject:* Re: Stus-List : Running cable in the mast

Danny,

Maybe something like this to create a loop and keep out water:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=151199&engine=adwords&keyword=product_ad&gclid=CJDfxLrWn8sCFYEjHwod9ycIug

Not sure how to secure the cable. Maybe some type of waterproof cable 
clamp would keep out water and hold the cable?


Joel

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:10 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Guys,

I was down checking out the mast on my boat and I had some
observations and questions.

- there is a 1 inch conduit running about 2 feet from the very
bottom to the top.  It is pretty full

- It seems to be the only conduit and there is no break at the
spreader for the deck lights wire or radar cable

- the current deck light wire looks like white lamp wire and I
plan to replace it

- the deck light wires are just run down the mast with no support
and they are noisy

- there is messenger run down the mast for the radar cable but,
again not supported

- what can I do to add some support when running the new wires?

- I've hears some people use longish cable ties on the wire and
don't cut off the tail to keep them quiet.  I'm not sure about
that idea...

- the radar cable is pretty heavy, I'm not sure if just running
it 25 feet down the mast, unsupported, is such a good idea

- there are virtually no access plates at the spreaders

- wires are run out of the mast through drilled holes.  not so
great for the wire jacket.

- so, how do I do this the right way?

- whats the right way to run the wires?

- whats the right way to exit the mast?

- A lot of water gets into the bilge and I'm thinking the mast is
a big contributor, there is a wide open 3/4 inch hole through the
mast head fitting and the wires to the wind instrument have no
loop for a drip leg.  Add all the drilled holes thru the side
with wires coming through, with no drip loops, and I think that
all adds up considerably.

Thanks for any and all insights and advice any of you can offer.

Danny

T40

Rum Runner IV

Mattapoiset, MA


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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Stu, best wishes to Gladys for a full and speedy recovery!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-03-14 7:05 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.
Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the 
pavement inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they 
told us she had a broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had 
to book with an orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.
Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery. She is having a 
permanent plate installed in the wrist. Follow-up checks should last 4 
weeks and then we can start thinking about going home.
Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill 
us and we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.
If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will 
have to wait until we get home.

Stu


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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Whoops, re-read Bruno's earlier email and realize we are talking the 
same place.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-03-18 7:50 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
It is possible to do a DIY job to a NACA profile, it just takes some 
time to plot the proper profiles out and use them as templates.  It 
was NOT a trivial DIY job though, be sure of your abilities first.


As Ken mentioned, I did rebuild mine.  It was saturated, and cracked 
during the winter.   When I pulled the skins off I was happy I'd 
decided to rebuild as the welds holding the frame to the post were 
dramatically corroded.  I had a new frame welded on, applied and 
shaped new foam, and put glass on top.  Very happy with the result.  I 
kept the same outline shape (in case anyone is thinking of turning me 
in to the PHRF folks...), but shaped it to NACA foils.  It was not 
shaped like that before.  Very happy with the results.


Within Canada there is also Competition Composites (AKA Phil's Foils) 
in Ottawa.  They will re-use the post if you want and will CNC cut the 
profile in the foam, so super accurate.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2016-03-18 4:46 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote:
Doing the research about replacement/repair and different profiles of 
rudders i became quite obsessed with the importance of the design and 
precision of the profile (ref. NACA profiles).


So a DIY job was quickly out of question. The boat is not a 40 kts 
foiler but i do race the boat and wanted a nice rudder.


The small local yard quote was over 2500$ for a complete rebuild, 
that would have been very ok, but still an eyeball job. At this point 
i decided to go all the way crazy and give the job to the pros. Don't 
regret it, i almost cried when i opened the box it was so beutiful!


There is a lot of good info on their website, even a video of the 
fabrication process.


I have now a keel fairing job on my to do list, but not a priority at 
this point.


Bruno Lachance
C&C 33mkII 87' Bécassine
New-Richmond, Qc


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 15:55:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: amira...@bellaliant.net

Thanks for the info about your rudder replacement,Bruno. Good company 
to keep in mind if I ever need to do mine.  Better to deal with a 
Canadian company with our dollar being so low right now.

Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC St Margarets Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

It is possible to do a DIY job to a NACA profile, it just takes some 
time to plot the proper profiles out and use them as templates.  It was 
NOT a trivial DIY job though, be sure of your abilities first.


As Ken mentioned, I did rebuild mine.  It was saturated, and cracked 
during the winter.   When I pulled the skins off I was happy I'd decided 
to rebuild as the welds holding the frame to the post were dramatically 
corroded.  I had a new frame welded on, applied and shaped new foam, and 
put glass on top.  Very happy with the result. I kept the same outline 
shape (in case anyone is thinking of turning me in to the PHRF 
folks...), but shaped it to NACA foils.  It was not shaped like that 
before.  Very happy with the results.


Within Canada there is also Competition Composites (AKA Phil's Foils) in 
Ottawa.  They will re-use the post if you want and will CNC cut the 
profile in the foam, so super accurate.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-03-18 4:46 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote:
Doing the research about replacement/repair and different profiles of 
rudders i became quite obsessed with the importance of the design and 
precision of the profile (ref. NACA profiles).


So a DIY job was quickly out of question. The boat is not a 40 kts 
foiler but i do race the boat and wanted a nice rudder.


The small local yard quote was over 2500$ for a complete rebuild, that 
would have been very ok, but still an eyeball job. At this point i 
decided to go all the way crazy and give the job to the pros. Don't 
regret it, i almost cried when i opened the box it was so beutiful!


There is a lot of good info on their website, even a video of the 
fabrication process.


I have now a keel fairing job on my to do list, but not a priority at 
this point.


Bruno Lachance
C&C 33mkII 87' Bécassine
New-Richmond, Qc


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2016 15:55:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: amira...@bellaliant.net

Thanks for the info about your rudder replacement,Bruno. Good company 
to keep in mind if I ever need to do mine.  Better to deal with a 
Canadian company with our dollar being so low right now.

Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC St Margarets Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List Stainless Lobster Fridge Optimizer

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Panbo did a review in February, perhaps worth a read...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-03-23 3:41 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:
This looks like it might be worth installing.  A few year ago I cooked 
my house bateries using the fridge at anchor for a few days.


Does anyone on the list have any experience, info or (dare I ask) 
opinions on this?


http://threesheetsnw.com/blog/2016/03/save-your-battery-and-your-beer-with-the-stainless-lobster-fridge-optimizer/ 




Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com



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Re: Stus-List Vancouver Area C&C 35/36 search questions

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Chris
I've got an '83 35-3, and love it.  The hull is cored, but is solid 
where C&C installed any thru-hulls, and the moisture meter found no 
issues at purchase (6 years ago) and since.  My deck has a damp spot, 
which is par for the course for boats of this age.


As has been said, a good survey is well worth the money.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-03-25 2:01 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List wrote:
I’m new to C&C world, recently narrowed down my boat search to a C&C 
and currently have my eye on two that are on the market: a 1986 C&C 35 
MKIII and a 1979 C&C 36. Have heard the good/bad and I’m told it all 
comes down to a good surveyor (if anyone knows a good surveyor with 
C&C knowledge please send them my way!) and I have to say I’m a bit 
apprehensive about a 30+ year old boat with cored hull and topsides. 
But I’m curious what others have to say about this topic or if there’s 
anything they might expand upon outside of what I’ve noted above.


Many thanks,
Chris


Chris Hobson, Owner
HobsonBuildsCo.com 
ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com 
416-436-1037




Building editable websites for small business one pixel at a time.



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Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Paul
My boat lives on a mooring, the setup is a chock on each side and a 
cleat aft of each.  I would not use the anchor roller for mooring lines.


3/4" pendants are overkill, I'm running 3/4 and am probably 12000 lbs.  
I had an Aloha 27, I used 5/8 pendants for it, similar size to the C&C 27.


If you single hand your boat I'd also recommend getting a mast buoy - 
fastened to one pendant it makes retrieval very easy.  I have a ring on 
one pendant that lets me unclip it when the boat is moored.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-03-13 9:28 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote:
So, I am going to be moving my boat from a nice, safe and secluded 
slip, to a mooring buoy out in the harbour. Yes, the mooring is big 
enough, yes I will be using at least 2 unequal pendants of good 
quality (probably at least 3/4"), and yes I will be using chafe guard 
where appropriate.  Assume also that any hardware would have backing 
plates as large as practically possible.


My current deck hardware consists of a central 6" or so cleat, with a 
small teak backing plate.  An anchor roller of unknown quality and fit 
(I have never used it), and a small chock that serves no purpose since 
the hawse pipe blocks a fair lead from the cleat to the chock.  Deck 
is balsa cored glass, toerail is standard C&C, so an aluminum L 
section perforated rail bolted though the deck and hull on roughly 
3-4" intervals. Basically, whatever I do is going to require a fair 
amount of work.  Given this, I can't decide on the best route.


1. Try to find some way of putting a cleat on the rail at each side of 
the bow - this will likely involve fabricating some sort of mounting 
block, bolting the cleat to that, and then through the rail/deck.


2. Fit some chocks (which will likely involve cutting the vertical 
part of the L section off) and replace the central cleat with a bigger 
one, with a bigger backing plate.


3. Fit a bow eye and moor to that - this might involve running a temp 
3rd mooring line to the deck cleat and then releasing the shackle(s) 
from the dinghy, I haven't got on the boat to see if it's feasible 
from there.


4. Something else I haven't thought of yet.

I'm thinking that option 3 might actually be the better route - 
doesn't involve disturbing the toerail at all, and while not the most 
convenient, it might have some advantages, namely much less chance of 
chafe, and a lower attachment point gives me better scope, plus I'd 
only have to drill two holes through glass.


I kind of need to make a decision in the next day or three so that I 
can get the bits and get going, boat will need to be on the mooring 
for April 1st, so I have two weekends after this one.


Mooring will be in Tsehum Harbour, in Sidney, BC.  No hurricanes here, 
40kts is the highest gust speed recorded in Sidney in the last 10 years.


What would my fellow C&C'ers suggest?

Cheers,
Paul

Orange Crush
1974 C&C27 MkII
Sidney, BC


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Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

That is true, but there is obviously a logical limit to that.  Heck, why 
stop at 3/4"???


When there is a storm coming I shackle a second pair of longer pendants 
onto the chain as backups.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-03-14 2:33 AM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote:
"I wish I'd used smaller mooring lines for that storm", said no-one 
ever :)  I'd rather go big and have that extra margin of safety.  I 
alas have no usable chocks as previously noted, so given I have no 
easy solution, I'd rather do it right - whatever that is.  A buoy 
mast/hook looks a fine idea indeed.

Cheers,
Paul.



Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2015 23:27:45 -0300
From: cnclistforw...@hotmail.com
To: pjbake...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring

Hi Paul
My boat lives on a mooring, the setup is a chock on each side and a 
cleat aft of each.  I would not use the anchor roller for mooring lines.


3/4" pendants are overkill, I'm running 3/4 and am probably 12000 
lbs.  I had an Aloha 27, I used 5/8 pendants for it, similar size to 
the C&C 27.


If you single hand your boat I'd also recommend getting a mast buoy - 
fastened to one pendant it makes retrieval very easy. I have a ring on 
one pendant that lets me unclip it when the boat is moored.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-03-13 9:28 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote:

So, I am going to be moving my boat from a nice, safe and secluded
slip, to a mooring buoy out in the harbour.  Yes, the mooring is
big enough, yes I will be using at least 2 unequal pendants of
good quality (probably at least 3/4"), and yes I will be using
chafe guard where appropriate.  Assume also that any hardware
would have backing plates as large as practically possible.

My current deck hardware consists of a central 6" or so cleat,
with a small teak backing plate.  An anchor roller of unknown
quality and fit (I have never used it), and a small chock that
serves no purpose since the hawse pipe blocks a fair lead from the
cleat to the chock.  Deck is balsa cored glass, toerail is
standard C&C, so an aluminum L section perforated rail bolted
though the deck and hull on roughly 3-4" intervals.  Basically,
whatever I do is going to require a fair amount of work.  Given
this, I can't decide on the best route.

1. Try to find some way of putting a cleat on the rail at each
side of the bow - this will likely involve fabricating some sort
of mounting block, bolting the cleat to that, and then through the
rail/deck.

2. Fit some chocks (which will likely involve cutting the vertical
part of the L section off) and replace the central cleat with a
bigger one, with a bigger backing plate.

3. Fit a bow eye and moor to that - this might involve running a
temp 3rd mooring line to the deck cleat and then releasing the
shackle(s) from the dinghy, I haven't got on the boat to see if
it's feasible from there.

4. Something else I haven't thought of yet.

I'm thinking that option 3 might actually be the better route -
doesn't involve disturbing the toerail at all, and while not the
most convenient, it might have some advantages, namely much less
chance of chafe, and a lower attachment point gives me better
scope, plus I'd only have to drill two holes through glass.

I kind of need to make a decision in the next day or three so that
I can get the bits and get going, boat will need to be on the
mooring for April 1st, so I have two weekends after this one.

Mooring will be in Tsehum Harbour, in Sidney, BC.  No hurricanes
here, 40kts is the highest gust speed recorded in Sidney in the
last 10 years.

What would my fellow C&C'ers suggest?

Cheers,
Paul

Orange Crush
1974 C&C27 MkII
Sidney, BC


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Re: Stus-List friends from list

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Mike, you are way too big to be a troll.

I have to disagree a bit, it depends on the forum.  I just got back from 
Vancouver where I met with 4 people I know from a forum, I consider them 
to be friends.  Yes the big ones that is less likely, but I've actually 
met a few folks that I know of from Sailing Anarchy.  From this site 
I've met a few folks, although Bob Abbott has never been closer than a 
boatlength.


But I am on the side of the email list on this - I prefer the emails 
coming to me vs having to go check another web site.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-03-16 9:40 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

I have personally met several people who came from this list.  Also on the J27 
Yahoo group with its email list I met a couple people.  I have never met a 
single person through any forum
  
I have met and chatted with Bob Abbott and Rich Knowles because I knew their names and boats from the list   I have been on both of their boats
  
I have had many email conversations with Harry Hallgring and he even did a visual inspection of my current boat while I was in the process of purchasing it.  Our paths did not cross in New Bedford, Mass unfortunately due to time constraints but I do consider many on this list to be friends.
  
Forums have to be checked.  Lists come to you.  Many of us prefer the messages coming to us rather than going to look.  Also like many others I do use forums like sailnet as well but not very often anymore.
  
So I guess to me LIST = FRIENDS = COMMUNITY.  Forum = Impersonal and anonymity.
  
Mike

List Troll



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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Plus one vote for the hammer crimper, that is what I use.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-03-25 7:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


So after reading Peter's link on pbase, I have less support of my own 
recommendation for the cheap "hydraulic" crimper for which I sent a link.


However, after seeing the price of the crimper on pbase ($275), I more 
strongly support my suggestion of the hammer crimp.  Aside from the 
suggested crimper all of the other suggestions are reasonable.


I think you are going to find yourself at an impasse regarding cost 
and quality.  While the quality of the crimper and lugs suggested by 
pbase appear to be of superior quality, you are probably going to find 
that the cost and availability of the lugs is restrictive and the cost 
of the crimper prohibitive.  Its a pretty large commitment.


Quality lugs for the hammer crimper are readily available if you 
choose to go the cheap way.  As pbase even said, that knarly looking 
chrimp still worked.  The crimper was only one of many criticisms of 
that crimp.  It is my opinion that if you employ all of the other 
pbase suggestions but use the hammer crimper and compatible lugs then 
you will still end up with a quality, long lasting and safe 
connection.  I've done dozens and am proud of all of them.


Josh

On Mar 25, 2015 5:29 PM, "Josh Muckley" > wrote:


I got one of these and it works well though probably not to the
exacting specs of some others.

TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xFYevb11V75DW

For a more appropriate crimp you could try something like this. 
Its only $20-25 dollars more.  Since I already have the other

crimper I won't be buying this one but if I was in your shoes I
would spend the extra cash.

Hydraulic Wire Terminal Battery Cable Crimper 10 Ton with 9 Dies
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNBWXNU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1DYevb0TC0ECF

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD

On Mar 25, 2015 5:01 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools)
for cutting and for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4
battery cable?


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List running wire for chart plotter etc

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Brad
There is room inside the pedestal, I've got the power and Seatalk NG 
wires for a Ray chartplotter running through mine.  The reason I went 
that route was that there had previously been the wiring for the wheel 
drive (autopilot) running through there, so there is already a hole in 
the pedestal tube.


On my previous boat there were some instruments on a pod on the pedestal 
guard, the wiring ran through the guard tube and into the boat that 
way.  Worked well, and was arguably a cleaner install. You can drill the 
exit hole much closer to the instrument.


Just be sure you use grommets so the metal edge doesn't chew thru the 
wiring...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-03-30 6:26 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List wrote:

How much stuff is inside the Edson pedestal on a C&C 33 II? Shift cable, 
throttle cable and steering shaft? I've seen a few references to drilling into the 
guard and running the wiring inside it, but wondered if there was more empty space 
in the pedestal itself? There should already be a substantial hole in the deck at 
that point. There is going to be a good sized bundle of wire running up with the 
plotter, the autopilot head, and the power for the drive unit. Is there a better 
place to put this stuff that I'm not thinking about? (bought a RAM mount with a 
clamp to the ped. guard)
  I'm just overthinking the install of the new instruments on our new boat and 
don't want to hack something up I didn't need to.
Thanx
Brad
1985 C&C 33 MkII "Pulse"
Sarnia

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List Sailor rescued of North Carolina

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I vote for fishy, he looks way too healthy in the pic getting off the 
chopper.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-04-08 4:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

What's the list's take on this guy?



Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

It is missing the vial of weasel sweat.  Otherwise good.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Here's my wiring diagram. 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/DBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest
that the less complexity and fewer components in the electrical
system the better, especially in a salt water environment. That
also means no unnecessary switches or electrical equipment in the
cockpit as they always turn out to be problematic much more often
than those out of the weather in the cabin.

“Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the
activities such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights
are urgent, and saving a few steps to reach the protected main
panel is not worth compromising the reliability of the system. The
less sub-panels the better to my mind.

The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on
the main panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat
is unattended.

Just a few thoughts…

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types
(talking weatherproof here)  one that has fuses (ATC or AGC
types) built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the
latter you’d need to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the
switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up one of the
Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to
it from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the
cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds to
pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper
sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, although my
chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could
just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed
below when not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off
completely to it’s plug-in connection.
In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as
possible ... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to
access. For example, I plan to put in AGC-type panel mount
‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine gauge panel for the
compass light and the blower – the switches for both of those are
in the standard C&C panel.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
*From:* ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com  ; Alex
Giannelia 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an
appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but
maybe you were planning that already.
Ed
On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Alex Giannelia via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the
companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC
panel with 15 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big
rotary main 1-2-all-off switch.

The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been
replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new
electric motor charger and the second one going to the new smart
charger for the house bank. On the starboard side of the
companionway, there was a hanging locker which  may have been
converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF
radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition
WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.

The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the
panel to the locker on the starboard side above the nav station
and to have a sub panel (already installed) in the cockpit where
the engine instruments were.

So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights
would be switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch. 
The engine installer installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank

that I can use for whatever.

Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched
from the cabin panel.

Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned
wire to the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.

Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

Alex Giannelia
   

Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Mike
Procrastinate.  This is better done as a winter project, if you start 
now you will either be rushing it or be delayed in launch.  I pulled 
mine out, took it home over a winter to use as a template, and put new 
sole in the boat in the spring.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-04-14 1:30 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is 
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This is 
very likely the same as many C&Cs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock and 
no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East Coast 
Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of stock on 
3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 T&H and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of 4x8 
plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List new Raymarine Lighthouse II sailing features

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

So my next question is - do any 35-3 owners have the design's polars in 
a soft copy, suitable for import into this software?


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-07 4:12 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
For those with Raymarine a, c or e Series MFDs, Raymarine released a 
new version of software today; it includes some nice features for you 
racers out there:


http://www.raymarine.co.uk/view/?id=12259



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



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Re: Stus-List new Raymarine Lighthouse II sailing features

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Do you mean the graph, or a table of numbers?  Can you scan it and email 
it to me?  I'm sure I can figure out the format.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-07 8:25 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:


I have the hard copy from US sailing, but not sure how to translate it 
into the appropriate format.


Jake

*Jake Brodersen*

*/“Midnight Mistress”/*

*C&C 35 Mk-III*

*Hampton VA*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Frederick G Street via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, May 07, 2015 7:10 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Frederick G Street
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List new Raymarine Lighthouse II sailing features

Based on info from the website, it looks like you just need to get the 
data into a .CSV formatted document for it to be able to be imported 
into the system.  If you can find the numbers, that shouldn’t be too 
tough.



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V /Oceanis/ (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On May 7, 2015, at 6:02 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:




I would be interested too!

Tim

Mojito


On May 7, 2015, at 5:41 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


So my next question is - do any 35-3 owners have the design's
polars in a soft copy, suitable for import into this software?



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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Jim
What is the pedigree of that chart?  It looks hand drawn.  Any idea what 
jib it assumes, or what wind speed one changes jib size?  The spinnaker 
after 120 true is clear.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-08 1:17 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Do they look like these? 



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 7 May 2015 at 18:50, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I have the polars for the 35-3 and also have them set up for use
with the Nexus NX2 system, not Raymarine.  I will be glad to share
them if someone can do the formatting.
Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Mike!
Were it mine I'd rebuild it first - my engine is raw water cooled and 
started dripping, took a couple of seals and not a lot of work to get it 
right.


For parts as has been noted Rosborough is the official marine dealer 
currently.  If you are around Burnside you could try Liftow, they are no 
longer the dealer but may have some bits left.  They are up at the top 
of Wright Ave, up the hill coming up from the harbor. Another 
possibility is DAC Industrial, they used to be a Yanmar industrial 
dealer but got busted selling marine parts when they were not supposed 
to.  They may also have some old stock, I got a gasket and a belt from 
them last season.


The Marine diesel direct site is great for diagrams and info, it annoys 
the heck out of me that they can't sell out of their region.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-13 11:25 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Try here:

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd&page_ident=Y00F5062-34&model=3GM30F&manufacturer=Yanmar&title=COOLING%20FRESH%20WATER%20PUMP&quant_position=4&catalog=Y00F5062&printparts=&printservice=&printoperators=&comment1=

The answer is always "the more expensive one!"

Joel

On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Engine: Yanmar 3GM30F

Have come across two part numbers at different costs.

1.128695-42010 “Cooling Fresh Water Pump” .  Generally selling for
around $270 USD

2.121000-42100 “Fresh Water Pump Assembly”.  Selling $176.95 CAD
at boat house

Is the second a component of the first?  Anyone know the
difference and which is needed to be replaced when the seals start
to go resulting in the leak from weeping port?

Mike

Persistence

Halifax


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--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Mike
I meant as a DIY project...  there are not a lot of parts in one of 
those.  But you could also try DAC or one of the others, I'm sure they 
would be OK with rebuilding it.  The only part that might be iffy is 
pressing in a new bearing.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-14 9:22 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Thanks Graham

Who does the rebuild of these?  It sounds like a faster and simpler 
solution


Mike

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Graham Collins via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2015 9:35 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Graham Collins
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts

Hi Mike!
Were it mine I'd rebuild it first - my engine is raw water cooled and 
started dripping, took a couple of seals and not a lot of work to get 
it right.


For parts as has been noted Rosborough is the official marine dealer 
currently.  If you are around Burnside you could try Liftow, they are 
no longer the dealer but may have some bits left.  They are up at the 
top of Wright Ave, up the hill coming up from the harbor.   Another 
possibility is DAC Industrial, they used to be a Yanmar industrial 
dealer but got busted selling marine parts when they were not supposed 
to. They may also have some old stock, I got a gasket and a belt from 
them last season.


The Marine diesel direct site is great for diagrams and info, it 
annoys the heck out of me that they can't sell out of their region.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-13 11:25 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Try here:


http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd&page_ident=Y00F5062-34&model=3GM30F&manufacturer=Yanmar&title=COOLING%20FRESH%20WATER%20PUMP&quant_position=4&catalog=Y00F5062&printparts=&printservice=&printoperators=&comment1=

The answer is always "the more expensive one!"

Joel

On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 10:12 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Engine: Yanmar 3GM30F

Have come across two part numbers at different costs.

1.128695-42010 “Cooling Fresh Water Pump” .  Generally selling for
around $270 USD

2.121000-42100 “Fresh Water Pump Assembly”.  Selling $176.95 CAD
at boat house

Is the second a component of the first?  Anyone know the
difference and which is needed to be replaced when the seals start
to go resulting in the leak from weeping port?

Mike

Persistence

Halifax


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-- 


Joel
301 541 8551




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Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Good day.
Attached here are the polars for a C&C35-3 (Howard's in particular, but 
should be generic...).  The polars are for a 135% jib and a spinnaker.
This is in the format Raymarine's Lighthouse software will use, the 
format is wind speed along the top, angle on the side.



8   10  12  14  16  20
39.60   0   0   0   6.114   6.213
40.10   0   0   6.045   6.114   6.213
41.30   0   5.936   6.045   6.114   6.213
43.20   5.751   5.936   6.045   6.114   6.213
44.25.143   5.751   5.936   6.045   6.114   6.213
52  5.715   6.313   6.563   6.7 6.787   6.899
60  6.051   6.563   6.819   6.957.039   7.165
70  6.243   6.723   7.015   7.189   7.288   7.434
80  6.501   6.855   7.087   7.321   7.482   7.658
90  6.619   7.006   7.222   7.367   7.507   7.803
110 6.507   6.996   7.351   7.613   7.802   8.067
120 6.284   6.862   7.276   7.612   7.888   8.294
135 5.663   6.466   6.952   7.345   7.691   8.297
144 5.071   5.719   6.427   6.898   7.286   7.967
150 4.733   5.712   5.966   6.546.944   7.684
165 4.165   5.085.933   6.436.839   7.539
180 3.887   4.765   5.597   6.287   6.765   7.488


So for example at 70 degrees in 14 knots of wind the boat should have a 
target speed of 7.189 knots.

The attached file is small enough it should sneak through Stu's site.

And a thanks is due to Howard Paul for providing the data.

cheers!

--
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

,8,10,12,14,16,20
39.6,0,0,0,0,6.114,6.213
40.1,0,0,0,6.045,6.114,6.213
41.3,0,0,5.936,6.045,6.114,6.213
43.2,0,5.751,5.936,6.045,6.114,6.213
44.2,5.143,5.751,5.936,6.045,6.114,6.213
52,5.715,6.313,6.563,6.7,6.787,6.899
60,6.051,6.563,6.819,6.95,7.039,7.165
70,6.243,6.723,7.015,7.189,7.288,7.434
80,6.501,6.855,7.087,7.321,7.482,7.658
90,6.619,7.006,7.222,7.367,7.507,7.803
110,6.507,6.996,7.351,7.613,7.802,8.067
120,6.284,6.862,7.276,7.612,7.888,8.294
135,5.663,6.466,6.952,7.345,7.691,8.297
144,5.071,5.719,6.427,6.898,7.286,7.967
150,4.733,5.712,5.966,6.54,6.944,7.684
165,4.165,5.08,5.933,6.43,6.839,7.539
180,3.887,4.765,5.597,6.287,6.765,7.488
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Re: Stus-List 3GM and water heater

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dave
It should work, but another down side is that the salt water will 
corrode the heat exchanger coils - they aren't designed for salt water.  
Your hot water tank might not last too long.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-27 10:10 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:
Does anyone on the list have a raw water cooled Yanmar 3GM hooked up 
to a water heater?


I realize that the raw water cooled engine runs cooler than then one 
with a heat exchanger but I can live with warm and not hot water. 
However, I was told by a mechanic that this could harm the water pump 
but since it's simply a rubber impeller turning on a shaft I don't see 
happening. He also suggested that the increased length/back pressure 
will lesson the flow through the system.


So, I'm curious to see if hooking the water heater to the 3GM cooling 
system will harm the engine.


Dave J

Saltaire
C&C 35-3
Bristol, RI




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Re: Stus-List 3GM and water heater

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dave
I heat water with a separate Espar heater, used for hot water and for 
cabin heat.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-27 10:31 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:

Graham,

Thanks. I got a water heater with stainless steel heating tubes for 
that very reason and frankly if the water heater last 3 or 4 seasons 
that will be fine. Is yours plumbed that way?


Dave J

Saltaire
C&C 35-3
Bristol, RI



*From: *"Graham Collins via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *"Graham Collins" 
*Sent: *Wednesday, May 27, 2015 9:19:38 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List 3GM and water heater

Hi Dave
It should work, but another down side is that the salt water will 
corrode the heat exchanger coils - they aren't designed for salt 
water.  Your hot water tank might not last too long.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-05-27 10:10 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone on the list have a raw water cooled Yanmar 3GM hooked
up to a water heater?

I realize that the raw water cooled engine runs cooler than then
one with a heat exchanger but I can live with warm and not hot
water. However, I was told by a mechanic that this could harm the
water pump but since it's simply a rubber impeller turning on a
shaft I don't see happening. He also suggested that the increased
length/back pressure will lesson the flow through the system.

So, I'm curious to see if hooking the water heater to the 3GM
cooling system will harm the engine.

Dave J

Saltaire
C&C 35-3
Bristol, RI




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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the cabin 
hatch.

http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html

What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old 
one, 12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and may 
be able to sell you a replacement.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone 
with the standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 
35’/37' has replaced it with another brand?


I managed to bend the base frame on mine.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 



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Re: Stus-List Don't force it, get a bigger rock...

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

A&H is a bit dear, but if you are just replacing one you will have a 
mismatch in style...


I also swapped out my 24x24, but that one was toast - cracked base, 
busted hold-up arm, and the acrylic was shot - so that one went to the 
pit.  Not sure why I stashed the other one in the basement, maybe 
someday I'll build a crappy old boat with leaky hatches, baggy sails, 
and frayed rope.


My ManShip hatches are now 6 years old and are looking great.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-02 8:43 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:

Graham,

Thanks for that. I was just out searching for info on A & H hatches 
and I ran across a old thread by Tartan 37 owners talking about 
replacing theirs. I have never hear of Man Ship hatches but a couple 
of the listers seemed impressed with them.


A&H did a complete rebuild of my hatches and although I was pleased 
with the results the total cost including shipping was, as I recall, a 
bit more than buying new Lewmars outright.


Your hatch is too small for me but the offer is much appreciated. Both 
my forward and main cabin hatches are identical. I haven’t measure 
them yet (I just disgustedly stored them away for future reference…) 
but my general impression is that they are around 24” x 24”.


Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>

On Jun 2, 2015, at 7:32 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Yes.  I used these hatches on the larger forward hatch and on the 
cabin hatch.

http://www.marinedepotdirect.com/deck-hatches.html

What size base do you need?  I've still got base from the smaller old 
one, 12x17?  And have you checked with A&H, they are still going and 
may be able to sell you a replacement.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-06-02 7:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
So, after today’s idiot move on my part, I was wondering if anyone 
with the standard Atkins & Hoyle hatch from an early-to-mid Eighties 
35’/37' has replaced it with another brand?


I managed to bend the base frame on mine.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>



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Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

OK, I've got to ask.  I love tool as much as the next guy, maybe more 
(ask me how many saws I own).


What the hell do you need a cordless drill living on your boat for? All 
season?


When I'm working on the boat I will bring whatever drill is appropriate 
(the corded right angle drill is actually a favorite), I will take it 
home when done.  It isn't like I'm off cruising for a week and suddenly 
it occurs to me that I should install some new deck hardware.  And if it 
did I've got an old school hand drill that will do a few holes quite 
easily.


I will admit, after being this sanctimonious, that I do have a 260 piece 
socket set on board.  And yes, I only use 5 sockets from it. :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-16 6:01 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I got my ryobi L-ion set on sale for I think $60CND two batteries, 
driver and drill. I keep that stuff on the boat and bring a battery 
home every now and then for a charge. At home I use a Bosch set that's 
proven to be very reliable, lots of use over four years including lots 
of masonry (hammer) and even work on the car with the driver.


Ten years ago they would have likely been nicad batteries and those 
really did suck. The current gen of lithium ion powered stuff is great 
as far as I can tell.


Steve
Suhana, C&C32
Toronto


On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 3:43 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I +1 on the Ryobi 18 V (but it has to be Li-ion). They may not be
the “professional grade”, but I don’t use it for work. They last
much longer than the cordless of the past (unless you murder the
battery; they don’t die by themselves, like our boat batteries)
and they do keep charge for months, when not in use (that last
comment applies to most of the Li-ion batteries). I haven’t found
any 12 V chargers, though (not that I would need one).
Look for a sale at Home Depot. They happen very rarely, but I
bought my set at 50% off (model year change).
Marek
*From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2015 11:41 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill
I would change course, and go for an 18 volt, 1/2 inch Ryobi with
one of the new lightweight lithium Ion batteries. They are
variable speed, and those new batteries run a LONG time on a
charge, and then charge back up in an hour. Plug the 110 volt
charger into an inverter when onboard, or get two batteries and
rotate them from home. You'll be getting so much more "tool" than
anything like what you described can provide.

Bill Bina

On 6/16/2015 11:15 AM, John Russo via CnC-List wrote:


I am looking for a small light duty light weight  3/8 max bit
size, 12 volt cordless drill that has a 110 volt charger and also
has a 12 volt cord with cigarette lighter adaptor that can be
used directly connected to the house batteries.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

John

Arpeggio C&C 32

Norwalk, CT



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Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

OK, but that is a different application than a generic drill.  I should 
get one so my wife can hoist me up the mast to fix my windex.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-16 8:34 PM, Richard Davis via CnC-List wrote:

I have been using a 18v Milwaukee right angle drill for about 8 yrs for hauling 
mainsail up, had to change battery once in that time. Love it.

Richard Davis
Skycatcher
C&C 38 mk3
Oxnard, CA
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Re: Stus-List island planet sails

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I asked them for a quote on a jib, was told I would get one shortly and 
never heard from them again.  Which I interpreted as a sign, so I didn't 
chase them.  Ended up going with the local North loft.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-16 9:12 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:

  Anyone have experience with Island Planet sails?   More specifically the 
composite sails?



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Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hey Mike
So if your mast breaks how do you cut the rigging away?  If you had a 
bolt cutter on board you'd be set for that risk, plus it would make it 
easier to break into my boat to steal my socket set.  Sorry, "borrow"... 
:-)


I'm all about having too many tools on board, just not electric ones.  A 
friend insisted we clear out the boat prior to a race, it was an 
illuminating experience.  I managed to talk her out of removing the 
windlass though.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-17 10:33 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


When I need sockets I just motor a quarter mile down the NW Arm to 
where I know there is a 260 piece socket set……


Seriously though.  In 2009 was doing a home project and purchased a 
Ryobi 9v and then found a DeWalt 12v on sale.  Used both drills while 
installing new flooring that had to be screwed every 6 inches (for 
under tile) and would swap one dewalt battery while other charging and 
then use the ryobi while both those charging.  The Ryobi would last 
only a very short time and has long since been scrapped.  The 12v 
DeWalt has been used for many projects and the first battery started 
not holding much charge last Spring while the second is still fine.  
The 12v DeWalt has been a great drill for me (this past December 
replaced with 18v DeWalt).  Nothing but good to say about it and it 
was NiCad


I do not leave a drill on the boat. I have a smallish toolbox with 6 
screwdrivers (2 phillips, 2 robertson, two slot), one multhead screw 
driver, a couple pair of various pliers, a couple adjustable wrenches, 
allan keys and a pair of vice grips .. as well as pne hammer (don’t 
know why).  Also a smallish socket set.  As I said – if I need more 
sockets I know where Graham is moored


I do believe you need tools aboard because things break on boats …  
and also you never know on a boat when the mood will hit you to take 
on some small task which always turns out to be a much bigger job than 
expected.


Mike

Persistence

Just up the NW Arm from Graham’s boat in Halifax

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Martin DeYoung via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2015 8:51 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Martin DeYoung
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill

>… What the hell do you need a cordless drill living on your boat for?

Ever since cordless drill batteries size and performance became 
reasonably useful (mid-80’s?) I carry one on any trip longer than a 
day sail and especially offshore.  Used for repairs, both drilling 
holes and removing/installing fasteners they earn their keep.


If you purchase L-Ion batteries and travel with your equipment, the US 
airlines are now restricting L-Ion batteries to carry on, not to be in 
checked luggage.  This includes spare cell phone and laptop batteries.


Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2015 3:58 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Stevan Plavsa
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill

Speaking for myself I bought the ryobi because I saw the deal and I'm 
on a wet mooring. Rowing my tools out kinda sucks to be honest so I 
keep a set on board. Also, time is money right? Inevitably I forget to 
bring something. If it's all on board I'm good.


Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 5:32 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


OK, I've got to ask.  I love tool as much as the next guy, maybe more 
(ask me how many saws I own).


What the hell do you need a cordless drill living on your boat for?  
All season?


When I'm working on the boat I will bring whatever drill is 
appropriate (the corded right angle drill is actually a favorite), I 
will take it home when done.  It isn't like I'm off cruising for a 
week and suddenly it occurs to me that I should install some new deck 
hardware.  And if it did I've got an old school hand drill that will 
do a few holes quite easily.


I will admit, after being this sanctimonious, that I do have a 260 
piece socket set on board.  And yes, I only use 5 sockets from it.  :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-16 6:01 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I got my ryobi L-ion set on sale for I think $60CND two
batteries, driver and drill. I keep that stuff on the boat and
bring a battery home every now and then for a charge. At home I
use a Bosch set that's proven to be very reliable, lots of use
over four years including lots of masonry (hammer) and even work
on the car with the driver.

Ten years ago they would have likely been nicad batteries and
those really did 

Re: Stus-List Tools on Board

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

No worries.  With all this talk I took the set home, all that is left is 
a couple of rusty screwdrivers, a hammer, and vice grips. And the bolt 
cutters... :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-06-18 9:32 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Mike:

You would think that Graham would give us a set of set sockets and 
help lighten his boat.with 260 pieces, he must have 3 of everything.


And if you need to 'borrow' any of Graham's sockets, there is a bolt 
cutter on AZURA.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On the NW Arm between Graham's and Mike's boats.




On 2015-06-17 5:46 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:

Hey Mike
So if your mast breaks how do you cut the rigging away?  If you had a 
bolt cutter on board you'd be set for that risk, plus it would make 
it easier to break into my boat to steal my socket set.  Sorry, 
"borrow"... :-)


I'm all about having too many tools on board, just not electric 
ones.  A friend insisted we clear out the boat prior to a race, it 
was an illuminating experience.  I managed to talk her out of 
removing the windlass though.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-06-17 10:33 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


When I need sockets I just motor a quarter mile down the NW Arm to 
where I know there is a 260 piece socket set……


Seriously though.  In 2009 was doing a home project and purchased a 
Ryobi 9v and then found a DeWalt 12v on sale.  Used both drills 
while installing new flooring that had to be screwed every 6 inches 
(for under tile) and would swap one dewalt battery while other 
charging and then use the ryobi while both those charging.  The 
Ryobi would last only a very short time and has long since been 
scrapped.  The 12v DeWalt has been used for many projects and the 
first battery started not holding much charge last Spring while the 
second is still fine.  The 12v DeWalt has been a great drill for me 
(this past December replaced with 18v DeWalt).  Nothing but good to 
say about it and it was NiCad


I do not leave a drill on the boat.  I have a smallish toolbox with 
6 screwdrivers (2 phillips, 2 robertson, two slot), one multhead 
screw driver, a couple pair of various pliers, a couple adjustable 
wrenches, allan keys and a pair of vice grips .. as well as pne 
hammer (don’t know why).  Also a smallish socket set.  As I said – 
if I need more sockets I know where Graham is moored


I do believe you need tools aboard because things break on boats …  
and also you never know on a boat when the mood will hit you to take 
on some small task which always turns out to be a much bigger job 
than expected.


Mike

Persistence

Just up the NW Arm from Graham’s boat in Halifax






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Re: Stus-List Cruisin' Music

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

AC/DC Thunderstruck.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-07-10 6:32 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List wrote:


> Gets the crew jazzed up.

Pre-race battle songs should be considered carefully including a pro 
sports level psychological work up on each crew.


I prefer “Enter Sandman” by Metallica.  Sadly any competent psycho 
work up would not support this choice for the rest of the Calypso crew.


Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F


*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Dennis C. via CnC-List

*Sent:* Friday, July 10, 2015 2:11 PM
*To:* CnClist
*Cc:* Dennis C.
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cruisin' Music

I once did a 100 mile distance race with a family that was a bit 
influenced by reggae.  The ONLY two CD's they brought were Bob Marley 
"Legend" and Jimmy Buffett "Songs You Know by Heart".  They played 
them alternately continuously from the noon start until our finish 
around 1:30am the next morning.  I still have trouble listening to 
either of them.


Before and after races we might fire up some Santana or some Southern 
Rock; Credence, Alabama, Allman Bros., ZZ Top, etc.  Gets the crew 
jazzed up.


The worst was a short fling with the CB Song of The Legendary Shack 
Shakers Cocka Doodle Don't CD.




Generally we prefer variety.  The Cafe del Mar CD's are nice. At 
anchor during dinner we like soft tunes like Secret Garden.  Most of 
the time we hook Pandora to the stereo and go with soft jazz.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA



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Re: Stus-List Summer Cruise, Speed and Sticky Situation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Tom
The ST60 - I had this issue, it was oddly sensitive to direction - by 
turning the sensor very slightly it would spring into action. Another 
lister, who will not be named, had the same issue but it was because his 
(boat) bottom had 1.5 inches of mussel growth on it. The speed wheel 
would get wet, but that was about it.


As for the cord it sounds like the outer skin has age/UV-itis.  Does it 
sit out in the sun a lot?  It is a terminal disease, no cure.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-08-02 5:02 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:
We are on day two of out annual 3 weeks in the San Juan and Gulf 
Islands,  We'll be in Port Townsend tonight and then working our way 
to the Rendezvous on Thetis next weekend.  If anyone is in the area 
let me know. You can text me on my cell 305.409.3660 if you're close.


Some wierdness with the speed reading on our Raymarine ST60. If I spin 
it I get a reading but in water reading are either missing or AFU.   
I'll be testing to see if it is the sender or the head or possible 
just the wiring.


Our AC power cable has developed some sort of skin condition. It feels 
like someone applied a coating of adhesive to it.  The 12' extension 
we have for it does not have this issue.  Anyone have an idea of what 
the deal is with this?


thx

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
Cell (305) 409-3660
www.sv-alera.com 




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Re: Stus-List Looking at a C&C 40-2 AC (Aft Cabin)

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

So...  what kind of anchors do you guys like??? :-)

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-08-16 11:32 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


Dwight;

Let’s not get this started.

You guys with 35-1s and 2s may have more votes because of the number 
sold. But those with 33-1s, 38-2s and 41s have the moral high ground 
and boats in the running for the title of prettiest boat ever made 
(along with Swan 62/63/65, which for my money places 4^th or maybe 3^rd ).


Let’s just agree that looking back at a classic C&C pretty much meets 
Andy’s criteria.


Rick Brass

*Imzadi *C&C 38 mk 2

*la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*dwight veinot via CnC-List

*Sent:* Sunday, August 16, 2015 4:42 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* dwight veinot 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Looking at a C&C 40-2 AC (Aft Cabin)

In that case everyone would own a C&C 35 MKII



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Re: Stus-List 33MKii main breaker rating?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Steve
I think Dave is talking about the breaker between the battery and the 
positive buss bars on the electrical panel.  On mine the wire from the 
battery switch goes to a breaker (I think mine is only 50 amp but could 
be wrong about that), and from the breaker it runs to the electrical panel.


cheers,

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-09-07 12:18 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

If you have a 30 amp cable, then you should have a 30 amp main breaker.

From a practical standpoint it probably won't make any difference, 
assuming 
that each shore power plug is independently and properly protected, 
but that is a pretty big assumption.
A 100 amp breaker would protect a 30 amp cable from a dead short, but 
that is about all. It would offer no fire protection at all for 
applied loads that simply add up to more than 30 amps.
Whatever the cable connector rating, that should be the rating of the 
main breaker on the boat.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

- Original Message - From: "Paul Fountain via CnC-List" 


To: 
Cc: "Paul Fountain" 
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2015 07:49
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33MKii main breaker rating?



Our 33-ll has a 100 amp breaker.

Paul. :)


On Sep 7, 2015, at 7:46 AM, Dave via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hello, I am upgrading the house battery arrangement in my 33ii and 
will replace the selector switch and breaker with a blue sea panel, 
which includes a 100A main, among other things.
Does anyone know the raring of the factory breaker?  The markings on 
mine are illegible.


Thanks!  Dave.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Indicator lights for breaker panel

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en/optoelectronics/panel-indicators-pilot-lights/524928

Put in the diameter you need and see what comes up.

Once you identify a manufacturer you may be able to find the same part 
cheaper elsewhere.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-09-11 11:12 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
Where can I find indicator lights for my breaker panels?  The Blue Sea 
connectors are too small (11/64).  All of the 120 volt panel lights 
need to be replaced as do several 12 volt lights.


Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 rudder

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Scott
If it is manufactured the same way as the 35-3 rudder, the answer is:
glass shell, with a welded frame on the stock, filled with foam.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-09-11 4:31 PM, Scott via CnC-List wrote:


Rudder has had water inside since before I bought it four years ago, drilling 
in the fall reveals rusty water , so I'm thinking of pulling it to work on over 
the winter. Anyone know what they are comprised of inside? Solid glass, foam 
core , solid blade , open grid welded ? Thanks for any insight, just curious 
before I perform surgery on it,
Thanks Scott

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket - inflation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I did a safety at sea course, which involved spending some quality time 
in the pool wearing full gear and my PFD (inflated).  I found it 
difficult to maneuver with it fully inflated, but could let some out and 
was able to do the required stuff (swim, climb into the liferaft) with 
it on.  For me a crotch strap add-on does make it easier as it keeps 
things lower, I tried it both ways.


As for re-boarding, a ladder isn't much good if it does not get a couple 
of rungs under water - not many of us can lift our body weight and wet 
gear up with our arms, when already exhausted.  We also bought a 
lifesling and have tackle ready in case someone has to be hoisted aboard.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-09-17 2:53 PM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List wrote:


This is a bit of a tangent, but I wanted to get some feedback on a 
recent event in our marina that has a lot of us talking.


We have some friends that own a cruising boat.  The wife has been a 
little hesitant about sailing in part because of poor swimming ability 
causing a general fear of water.  She decided to confront her fears 
head on by volunteering to do a live person overboard drill.  We got a 
bunch of people on board their boat and enlisted a smaller boat as a 
chase boat.  She put on an inflatable life jacket with an expiring 
sensor and jumped in the water in the harbor.  It was at the end of a 
stretch of hot weather so there were fewer fears about hypothermia and 
the waves were negligible, which is as good as it gets for Lake Michigan.


The PFD inflated immediately and brought her to the surface just fine, 
but she found that the inflated bladder pretty much immobilized her. 
 She could not lift her head properly or move her arms to maneuver to 
the throwables in the water.  One of the people in the chase boat 
ultimately jumped in to get her over to her boat and we got her back 
up on deck, but it was a more tense process than any of us expected.  
Our friend confronting her fears was actually satisfied with the 
result, she was able to remain calm and ultimately got back on the 
boat without injury, but it raised some doubts about inflatable PFD’s 
with the rest of us.


Anyone have experience with actually deploying an inflatable PFD?  
Were you able to maneuver?  Did you need to partially deflate the bladder?


As a side note, we have gone looking for a good quality non-inflatable 
PFD with a harness and crotch strap, which is becoming a requirement 
for some races now and pretty much came up empty at this point.


Thanks,

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows 10



*From: *Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
*Sent: *Wednesday, September 16, 2015 5:08 PM
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *Kevin Driscoll
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness 
recommendation


My Kong tether has snap shackle for self eject.

On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 11:53 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


don't forget to sign up for the PYacht email list before you place
your order and they'll give a 5% off code on a purchase over $100

five bucks is five bucks!



-- Original Message --
From: Indigo via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com "
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Indigo mailto:ind...@thethomsons.us>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness
recommendation

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 08:28:37 -0400

I don't recall - one of the early posts on the subject. At the
price of these at pyacht I might be tempted to replace my "spare"
old style tethers.

--

Jonathan

Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Sep 16, 2015, at 08:03, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mine does.  Which one are you looking at?  I’ve got the “Y”
tether with one six-foot leg and one three-foot leg; both of
those have the positive-action carabiners.  The harness end
has a snap shackle with a pull-lanyard.  Like this:
http://www.pyacht.com/cgi-bin/pagegen.pl?pr+kng283sete.htm

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V /Oceanis/ (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 15, 2015, at 10:29 PM, Indigo via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I am surprised to see that the Kong tether as illustrated
does not have a snap-shackle for use at the harness end to
enable quick disconnect if needed.  With any tension,
you'd need to cut the tether in order to get free if you
were, say, trapped under water.

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Re: Stus-List bus heater

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Mike
That should work well.  Two comments:
1) make sure stuff can't shift in the locker to contact the fan blades - 
some of their heaters don't have grills over the back of the fans.
2) you should consider where the air is going to get sucked from as you 
want to ensure enough of it can get in.  I've got a unit in the locker 
under the v-berth, and added a little grill so that air can get sucked 
back in.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-09-25 1:15 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Hi

Purchased the following heater from “The Binnacle” in Halifax.  I did 
this since we sail from beginning of May til end of October every 
year.  Not interested in a wall furnace just some heat while under 
motor (deliveries, etc…)


http://ca.binnacle.com/BBQ-Stoves-and-Heaters-Cabin-Heaters/c7_266/p8587/HEATER-CRAFT-COMPACT-CABIN-HEATER/product_info.html

Any comments on the installation?  Am planning to install on forward 
facing knee wall of quarter berth facing nav station.  Am thinking 
that I will rout the hose currently going to water heater to this 
heater first and from there to hot water heater.  Have a Yanmar 3GM30F 
with hot water etc …


Mike

Persistence

1987 Ferrs 33



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Re: Stus-List San Francisco Bay - Awesome sailing venue -

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

But it was great on the water today here Rich, 25 knots of wind, no waiting!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-09-06 9:52 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List wrote:

Light rain, fog etc. here. Dark too right now. Hoping for light tomorrow.

Rich


On Sep 6, 2014, at 21:36, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
wrote:

Well, it would be in really poor taste (and untrue) to say I'm also enjoying 
mid-teens, although it does hit 115 inside the boat during the summer.

In truth, I spent the morning polishing my stainless and now am fixing dinner 
and watching TV in the afternoon rain.  In the summer down here, I actually 
pray for cloudy rainy afternoons and evenings.  (smile)

Wal

Rich wrote:

And where's Wal when you need him? :))

Rich


Dennis  wrote:

The Admiral and I are sitting in a bar at the end of Pier 39 overlooking 
Alcatraz and tons of sloops, schooners, double mast gaff rigs, spinnakers 
flying and every imagine able sail craft on the bay. Beautiful sunny day with 
mid-teens.  Absolutely gorgeous!!


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Re: Stus-List In-Hull Depth Transducer

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dave
There are several areas of hull on the 35-3 that have no core, my 
speed/depth transducer is located adjacent to the thru-hull fitting for 
the head discharge and it is solid core there.
Looking at the inside of the hull it should be clear where there is core 
and is no core, as there is a noticeable step in the surface at the 
boundaries.


I've got a B&G Triton set, it was easy to install and painless.  It 
talks to my Ray plotter, with N2K networking any system should play nice.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-09-14 11:08 AM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

I am purchasing a Lowrance chart plotter and depth sounder and like several
others would really like to avoid another hole in the bottom. In-hull
transducers will not work through a cored hull which my 35Mk3 has. Is there
solid hull at or near the boats centerline? Is anyone using an in-hull
transducer in their core hulled C&C?

By the way, I would prefer Raymarine but the nearly $400 price difference
(all through Defender) is significant. If anyone thinks the Raymarine is
worth the extra money or has any comments about this choice please let me
know.

Thanks,
Dave
Saltaire
C&C 35 MK3


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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Mark
The BBYC crane is the best in the area for pulling a mast, makes it 
painless for mine.  Were I you I would think about pulling it to allow a 
proper inspection and maintenance - checking the rigging, the sheaves, 
and the wiring.  All can be done from the chair, but not as well.


I've left my mast in the last two years, it is a pain when the rain gets 
in but otherwise no ill effects.  I'd like to haul it this year, just 
have to figure which friends to tap for assistance...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-09-22 2:46 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about 
the merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.

In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast 
left in place as
this places stresses on the hull and rig not encountered during 
normal operation. Any
damage  to  the  yacht,  its  cradle  or  any  associated  part will  
not  be  covered  under

warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.


I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by 
hand.  Our club has a crane and a "gin pole"(?) that could be used to 
pull the mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the 
mast in place I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up 
the shrouds a little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving 
messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3 
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 
of the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the 
launch crew for me)


Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a 
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That 
said everything is working well -- is it easier to just go up the mast 
in a bosuns chair and do an inspection from there?


Advice appreciated,
Mark





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Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40 + Pricing

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi David
The way it has worked on my two boat purchases was that I made an offer, 
conditional on good survey.  Once the offer was accepted I paid a 
deposit and arranged for a survey.  The first time 'round the boat 
didn't have any serious surprises and we went through with the purchase 
as agreed, but with Secret Plans a few things came up that needed to be 
addresses, so we were at the point where I could have walked away, or 
negotiated  - I negotiated the price down to compensate for the findings 
and we did the deal.


In this case were I you I would:
 - try to determine what a fair price would be - if it has been for 
sale this long at this price then the price is too high for your area.  
7 years is a long time to store a boat!
 - make your offer, conditional on both a survey and on having the 
engine OK'd by a qualified mechanic.  Make sure you have time built into 
your offer to get these done.  That engine hasn't been worked in a long 
time, and even without your comment about overheating I'd be worried.

 - be honest with yourself about what the repairs and updates will cost!
 - remember, don't fall in love with the boat before you buy it, if 
there are hidden defects found by the surveyor do not ignore it!


good luck, hope it works out.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-09-25 8:37 PM, David Roberts via CnC-List wrote:


I have posted about this boat a few times to this list a got great 
feedback, so here I go again. I am looking at a 1989 C&C 37/40 +; 
7.25’ draft; two spreader, so we are talking about the cruiser not XL 
or R, I am thinking still fast. Any how the boat needs new upholstery, 
all new running rigging, the traveler is stiff even though there is no 
load on it (mast is down.) I have not had a chance to look at the 
sails yet but the description list  them as:


Main (Sobstad, Dacron,) Good Condition
#3 Jib(North, Dacron)Like New
#2 Jib(Sobstad, Dacron) Good Condition
#2 Jib (North, Dacron) Excellent Condition
Cruising spinnaker with sock (North, Nylon) Good Condition

So I am thinking I may have to replace the Main soon, there is no 
mention of a #1, Is that normal not to have a #1 on this boat?


The boat has not been in the water for 7 years. The deck and hull seem 
to show normal wear as to what I would expect for a 26 yr old boat. 
The engine looks like it may have been overheated at some point. The 
teak and holly flooring in the salon area has been refinished and my 
understanding is that the boat was not covered the first year it was 
on the hard at the dealer and it filled the bilge and beyond with 
water and ruined the floors. So maybe I should be concerned with the 
hull If it froze. There are a large number of little repairs that need 
attention. Lastly the stern looks like it has been bumped a number of 
times so that rear edge needs repair.


I have been watching this boat for 2 years now, just as I started a 
new business so buying a boat was out of the question four years ago. 
I have been sure that someone would come along and buy it. Once they 
move the boat inside to buff it out and give a good cleaning; made a 
repair or two, when I saw it was gone my heart dropped. I later found 
out that they did not sell it. Now that the business is coming along 
and we can make the payment I am wondering why it has not sold. Maybe 
it is the 7.25’ draft is an issue on Lake Michigan we are up 18’ this 
year but the past 10 years we have been trending down. There are a lot 
of smaller harbors you can’t get in with that draft. That is not a 
problem for hardcore racers. They don’t go to those harbors, but I 
don’t think they would be interested in the Std rig. We race beer can, 
a few port to ports, and cruise.


They are asking $79K but I don’t think that is anywhere close to a 
good number. I have been in my current boat for 15 years so it has 
been some time sense I have been in the buyers chair. Do I get the 
survey first, or make an offer and if it is accepted then get the 
survey. But how do I determine a value without the survey?


I am interested in what others have paid recently for the same model 
and what condition it was in. I am try to come to a fair offer.


David Roberts

(224) 280-6217

ddr1...@gmail.com 



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Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Jonathan
I've got 4x6v plus a dedicated start battery under my quarterberth 
(forward locker), you should be able to fit 3.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-09-28 11:46 AM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote:

Looks like I need new batteries!  I have lived for 12 years with two batteries 
- one used for house and the other kept in reserve via off-1-all -2 switch.

Would like to have a dedicated starting battery in addition to two deep-cells 
but do not see how I can fit the three in the locker under the quarter berth - 
and am reluctant to give up any other locker space. - so it looks like I will 
stick to the two.

I googling marine batteries I see that there are dual purpose ones available. Anyone know 
if this is just a marketing "hoax". In particular Batteries Plus have a Group 
27 dual purpose Duracell battery for $95 - seems like a steal - or am I going to be 
disappointed with how long I can expect it to last (I presume all group. 27 give out the 
same amp/hours - or do I have to watch out there?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Re: Stus-List Been there, done that, got the antibiotics

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

And a bottle of tequila?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-10-10 9:35 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:

My parents went to Mexico and all I got wasthis lousy tee shirt.

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Stus-List Volvo ocean race game?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Anyone doing the volvo ocean race game?  (Virtual regatta at 
http://www.virtualregatta.com/)


--
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


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Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Dripless seal - As a backup for the set screws it is pretty painless to 
install an anode on the shaft up against the rotor.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-10-13 4:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small 
detent in the shaft.  Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange 
in position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.  
Then install that set screw tightly with threadlocker.  Remove the 
first screw and make a detent for it.


Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems
along the way.  But I have two maintanence issues.

1.  Automatic Bilge Switch problems

Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to
the bilge to use with the switch.  There was no auto switch on her
when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water
all year, I needed to install one.  I like state of the art
electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump
Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood
as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly.
which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first
one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until
we cycled the manual switch.  This week end it was so bad I just
pulled the fuse.  This weirdness had started when we were on our
summer cruise.  So, I had a replacement switch on board. I
replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up.  It ran,
but did not shut down.  So, as I have been doing before when it
would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut
down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something
because the switch is not working at all now.  I checked the
breaker panel and all's well there.  The in line fuse I installed
with the switch is fine as well.The manual switch is still
functional...thank god!  (see 2 below!)


2  Dripping dripless bearing

In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview
West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing.  As a
result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on
the 2 hour run back yesterday.  The bilge  was substantially
filled.  I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was
spewing water everywhere.  Not enough to outpace the electric
bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention.  After we docked I
checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the
shaft.  I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure
I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just
tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they  bite,
then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place.

Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless
bearing maintenance or anything else?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200 
www.sv-alera.com



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Re: Stus-List How Big is my Shaft

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

They say this cat Shaft is a bad mother
SHUT YOUR MOUTH!
I'm talkin' 'bout Shaft.
THEN WE CAN DIG IT!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-10-17 8:52 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Just measured my shaft.  It's 1 1/4".

On Oct 17, 2014 6:05 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I can't make it over to the boat today to checkdo any of our
37+/40 listers knoe how big my shaft it?  Pretty usre it's 1 1/4
but want to be sure.

thx

Tom B <-- leaving himself wide open to all sorts of stuff with a
subject like that!

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200 
www.sv-alera.com



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Re: Stus-List Replacing top rudder bearing

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

When I recently dropped my rudder I found the retaining ring needed 
serious encouragement to come off, had to put a pipe wrench to it.  The 
strap wrench did not do it at all.

Hope yours is more free than that.  Apply lubrication liberally!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-10-24 1:56 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

All,

My new Delrin bearing for the top of the rudder post is ready.

The boat is staying in the water.  Do I need run a line under the 
rudder to the stern cleats before I loosen the retaining ring?  Or 
should I put a shim under the quadrant to limit the drop?


Do I need anything besides allen wrenches and a strap wrench?

As always, thanks for the advice!

--
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis



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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Wal, if you are gone any amount of time when they fail you have lost the 
boat anyway - any half decently sized bilge pump will kill the battery.  
Let's assume a Whale 1000 gallon / hr pump, this will pull 4 amps.   The 
1000 gallons/hr rating is ideal, like mileage ratings on cars, so in 
real life assuming 5 feet of head you will get maybe half that.


A 1" hose off a fitting at 2 feet below waterline will flood at 12.7 gpm 
= 762 gallons per hour.  Your pump won't keep up with that.


So back to the Defender site, what's a 2000 gph pump draw?  The Rule 
pump draws 8.4 amps.  So now your boat is safe, at a cost of 8.4 amp 
hours - how many days does that keep your boat afloat? What if it is a 
seacock that fails (higher flooding rate), or a bigger fitting?


(technical reference: Calder, Boatowner's Mechanical And Electrical 
Manual 3rd edition, "flooding rates" p 581)


How many on here have a 2000 gph automatic bilge pumps?  I consider 
automatic bilge pumps to be suitable for nuisance flooding (e.g. rain 
down the mast), and one would buy me a bit of time in a crisis, but to 
rely on one for long term unattended protection is unrealistic.  Far 
better to check and eliminate the risks you mention.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-11-03 1:00 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
Not crazy, but how old are your through hulls, sea cocks and hoses? 
Are your hoses held up with seizing wire so if the sink connections 
crack the hose won't fall down below the waterline? Do you have any 
red brass nipples connecting sea cocks to bronze T's to share hose 
fittings? That's the stuff I worry about, because I might be gone if 
they fail.


Speaking of boats sinking at the dock, we had another one here the 
other day. The locals were trying to raise it with empty 55 gallon 
drums -- except the drums weren't empty. The smell of solvent was 
overwhelming from 100 yards away, and I looked over to see them 
dumping the remaining contents into the marina water. Great. I walked 
over to complain, but they couldn't speak English and insisted it was 
just aqua. The drums were covered with warnings from 'flammable' to 
'do not inhale fumes.' Funny how they were doing it on a national 
holiday, when the port captain was gone and the marina security was on 
a skeleton staff.


Wal



you wrote:
I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale 
gusher. I have never found much water in the boat even after extended 
time on the mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at 
the pump handle empties it out. Am I crazy?



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