Dripless seal - As a backup for the set screws it is pretty painless to
install an anode on the shaft up against the rotor.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2014-10-13 4:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small
detent in the shaft. Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange
in position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole.
Then install that set screw tightly with threadlocker. Remove the
first screw and make a detent for it.
Dennis C.
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems
along the way. But I have two maintanence issues.
1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems
Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to
the bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her
when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water
all year, I needed to install one. I like state of the art
electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump
Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood
as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly.
which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first
one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until
we cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just
pulled the fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our
summer cruise. So, I had a replacement switch on board. I
replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up. It ran,
but did not shut down. So, as I have been doing before when it
would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut
down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something
because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the
breaker panel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed
with the switch is fine as well. The manual switch is still
functional...thank god! (see 2 below!)
2 Dripping dripless bearing
In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview
West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a
result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on
the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially
filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was
spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric
bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I
checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the
shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure
I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just
tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite,
then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place.
Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless
bearing maintenance or anything else?
Tom B
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200 <tel:%28206%29%20463-9200>
www.sv-alera.com
<http://www.sv-alera.com/>
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