It is missing the vial of weasel sweat. Otherwise good.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-04-13 9:23 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Here's my wiring diagram.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2Smb9smQbAY/VSxdVWZC-yI/AAAAAAAADBU/Yre8JWIYfI0/w639-h822-no/circuit_diagram.jpg
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 13 April 2015 at 10:29, Knowles Rich via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Just catching up on the various threads. My experience suggest
that the less complexity and fewer components in the electrical
system the better, especially in a salt water environment. That
also means no unnecessary switches or electrical equipment in the
cockpit as they always turn out to be problematic much more often
than those out of the weather in the cabin.
“Unnecessary” is a relative word, of course, but none of the
activities such as turning on deck lights, compass or nav lights
are urgent, and saving a few steps to reach the protected main
panel is not worth compromising the reliability of the system. The
less sub-panels the better to my mind.
The power to a removable GPS should be switched off at source on
the main panel and certainly by the battery switch when the boat
is unattended.
Just a few thoughts…
Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.
On Apr 9, 2015, at 09:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
And the sub-panel in the cockpit usually are available in 2 types
(talking weatherproof here) .... one that has fuses (ATC or AGC
types) built-in and the other just has plain switches. With the
latter you’d need to mount a below-deck fuse block next to the
switch panel to fuse individual circuits. I picked up one of the
Blue Seas 6-position combined switch/fuse panels and will feed to
it from my main DC panel (switched and fused there) and use the
cockpit sub-panel to control nav-lights and feeds to
pedestal-mount electronics and auto-pilot and also provide proper
sized fusing for each ‘device’. So, for example, although my
chartplotter is switched right at the unit and so otherwise could
just be fed off a fuse block, it is removable (and will be stowed
below when not in use) so I want to be able to turn power off
completely to it’s plug-in connection.
In my planning I’m trying to eliminate as many in-line fuses as
possible ... eliminating those that are hidden away or hard to
access. For example, I plan to put in AGC-type panel mount
‘waterproof’ fuse holders in the engine gauge panel for the
compass light and the blower – the switches for both of those are
in the standard C&C panel.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
*From:* ed vanderkruk via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:11 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> ; Alex
Giannelia <mailto:a...@airsensing.com>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS
Remember to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an
appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but
maybe you were planning that already.
Ed
On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, "Alex Giannelia via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy
My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the
companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC
panel with 15 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big
rotary main 1-2-all-off switch.
The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been
replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new
electric motor charger and the second one going to the new smart
charger for the house bank. On the starboard side of the
companionway, there was a hanging locker which may have been
converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a stereo and two VHF
radios. Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new condition
WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.
The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the
panel to the locker on the starboard side above the nav station
and to have a sub panel (already installed) in the cockpit where
the engine instruments were.
So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights
would be switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.
The engine installer installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank
that I can use for whatever.
Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched
from the cabin panel.
Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned
wire to the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.
Get the picture? So what should I worry about?
Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario
a...@airsensing.com <mailto:a...@airsensing.com>
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