That is true, but there is obviously a logical limit to that. Heck, why
stop at 3/4"???
When there is a storm coming I shackle a second pair of longer pendants
onto the chain as backups.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-03-14 2:33 AM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote:
"I wish I'd used smaller mooring lines for that storm", said no-one
ever :) I'd rather go big and have that extra margin of safety. I
alas have no usable chocks as previously noted, so given I have no
easy solution, I'd rather do it right - whatever that is. A buoy
mast/hook looks a fine idea indeed.
Cheers,
Paul.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2015 23:27:45 -0300
From: cnclistforw...@hotmail.com
To: pjbake...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring
Hi Paul
My boat lives on a mooring, the setup is a chock on each side and a
cleat aft of each. I would not use the anchor roller for mooring lines.
3/4" pendants are overkill, I'm running 3/4 and am probably 12000
lbs. I had an Aloha 27, I used 5/8 pendants for it, similar size to
the C&C 27.
If you single hand your boat I'd also recommend getting a mast buoy -
fastened to one pendant it makes retrieval very easy. I have a ring on
one pendant that lets me unclip it when the boat is moored.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2015-03-13 9:28 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote:
So, I am going to be moving my boat from a nice, safe and secluded
slip, to a mooring buoy out in the harbour. Yes, the mooring is
big enough, yes I will be using at least 2 unequal pendants of
good quality (probably at least 3/4"), and yes I will be using
chafe guard where appropriate. Assume also that any hardware
would have backing plates as large as practically possible.
My current deck hardware consists of a central 6" or so cleat,
with a small teak backing plate. An anchor roller of unknown
quality and fit (I have never used it), and a small chock that
serves no purpose since the hawse pipe blocks a fair lead from the
cleat to the chock. Deck is balsa cored glass, toerail is
standard C&C, so an aluminum L section perforated rail bolted
though the deck and hull on roughly 3-4" intervals. Basically,
whatever I do is going to require a fair amount of work. Given
this, I can't decide on the best route.
1. Try to find some way of putting a cleat on the rail at each
side of the bow - this will likely involve fabricating some sort
of mounting block, bolting the cleat to that, and then through the
rail/deck.
2. Fit some chocks (which will likely involve cutting the vertical
part of the L section off) and replace the central cleat with a
bigger one, with a bigger backing plate.
3. Fit a bow eye and moor to that - this might involve running a
temp 3rd mooring line to the deck cleat and then releasing the
shackle(s) from the dinghy, I haven't got on the boat to see if
it's feasible from there.
4. Something else I haven't thought of yet.
I'm thinking that option 3 might actually be the better route -
doesn't involve disturbing the toerail at all, and while not the
most convenient, it might have some advantages, namely much less
chance of chafe, and a lower attachment point gives me better
scope, plus I'd only have to drill two holes through glass.
I kind of need to make a decision in the next day or three so that
I can get the bits and get going, boat will need to be on the
mooring for April 1st, so I have two weekends after this one.
Mooring will be in Tsehum Harbour, in Sidney, BC. No hurricanes
here, 40kts is the highest gust speed recorded in Sidney in the
last 10 years.
What would my fellow C&C'ers suggest?
Cheers,
Paul
Orange Crush
1974 C&C27 MkII
Sidney, BC
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