Re: Stus-List floorboards

[Dave Godwin]

Bill, this is exactly how I did my floorboards years ago with help from a buddy 
who worked in a boatbuilder’s woodshop. Unfortunately I will be doing it again 
this winter…

++1 on lining up the pattern. Take your time.

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:49 AM, Graham Collins  wrote:

> Hi Bill
> Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8" all around, then 
> using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards to 
> the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of the 
> same diameter) to trim.  No clamps required, and you use the same screw holes 
> to install the new boards.
> 
> +1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to 
> panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over!
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> I am planning to remake floorboards this winter.  I have old ones for 
>> pattern.  Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has 
>> for patterning, cutting, finishing.  Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish.  
>> Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided 
>> tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut.  
>> Thoughts welcome.   
>> Bill Walker
>> 36
>> Pentwater, Mi
>> Sent from my HTC
>> 
>> - Reply message -
>> From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
>> To: 
>> Subject: Stus-List Current C&C History; now a Dose of reality 
>> Date: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 9:03 PM
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Floorboards

[Dave Godwin]

Will, thanks for that little bit of lagniappe. That’s one of the reasons my 
first set of floorboards started to delaminate was that despite covering every 
inch of the new floorboards with West, I didn’t do the screw holes.

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 8, 2013, at 12:03 PM, Will Harris  wrote:

> It seems like you guys are on the right track.
> 
> Getting the holly seams lined up makes the finished product look better.  If 
> the existing floorboards are lined up to your satisfaction, put a few marks 
> on your pattern where the holly strips are.  Line these up with your new 
> stock and you should be in good shape.
> 
> If not, bring the patterns to the boat, put them in place and figure out 
> where you want the strips running.  It's even harder than hanging a picture 
> straight!
> 
> Epoxy is your friend.  Read the West Manual about flow coating.  You will use 
> WAY more epoxy than you think.
> 
> Probably the most common mistake is forgetting to epoxy the screw holes.  
> Drill 'em, fit 'em and then over drill them just a tad and fill with epoxy.  
> Then drill 'em again.
> 
> -- 
> Will Harris
> Waterline Systems
> 
> 716-531-6088
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fw: floorboards

[Dave Godwin]

Mike,

I've toyed with the idea of of using a non-wood product for my replacement 
cabin sole. One of things I'd be interested in is an opinion of how "slippery" 
it is compared to varnished laminated teak and holly plywood.

Thoughts?

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 8, 2013, at 16:09, Persuasion  wrote:

> Bill
> 
> Have you considered one of the PVC teak and holly products.  I just did my 
> sole with Lonseal.  I think it took 20 years off the age of my boat.  The 
> next owner will curse me when it comes time to replace as I screwed new 
> plywood down prior to laying the Lonseal.
> 
> 
> Mike
> S/V Persuasion
> C&C 37 Keel/CB
> Long Sault
> -Original Message- From: Bill Connon
> Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2013 11:17 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards
> 
> wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> I am planning to remake floorboards this winter.  I have old ones for 
>> pattern.  Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has 
>> for patterning, cutting, finishing.  Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish.  
>> Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided 
>> tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut.  
>> Thoughts welcome.
>> Bill Walker
>> 36
>> Pentwater, Mi
>> Sent from my HTC
>> 
> Bill,
> 
> I think that one thing you have to be careful about is to have the Teak
> & Holly ?? pattern lined up properly along the length of the boat. It
> might be a less efficient cutting pattern but would look more professional.
> 
> Bill
> Caprice 1
> C&C 36
> 
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Re: Stus-List Winter sailing

[Dave Godwin]

Obviously, warm clothing that you’re comfortable living in for a long time.

Something to read. I brought my iPad with some books on an Annapolis-to-St. 
John’s non-stop delivery. That was nice because you can read at night.

A lot of Baby Wipes or Wet Ones.

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Nov 10, 2013, at 1:06 PM, OldSteveH  wrote:

> I'm sailing from Lunenburg NS to Antigua, leaving Sat  Nov 16. 9 to 12 days,
> about 1,600 nm.
> This is with Derek Hatfield aboard the Volvo 60 - former Amer Sports One.
> Some friends and I did a Lunenburg to Bermuda trip with Derek in 2012. 
> 
> So on this subject I have never done a longer single passage like this one.
> Is there any advice from the group, what to bring along, what not to bother
> bringing?
> I have the basic stuff/list already but would appreciate any insights.
> Thanks!
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Steve Hood
> S/V Diamond Girl
> C&C 34
> Lions Head ON
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 08:45:20 -0500 (EST)
> From: "Richard N. Bush" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List ; Winter sailing
> Message-ID: <8d0ac323b7fdf67-1054-26...@webmailstg-m03.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 
> OK, the boats, (most of them anyway) are being winterized and repair lists
> are growing, so, where do you guys go for winter sailing/chartering?   I
> look at the glossy ads for charters and know that it can't be the
> unblemished Eden they espouse, but there must be some charters and charter
> companies that are better than others; unfortunately, as for my family, one
> of my family members refuses to fly so that eliminates most of the
> Bahamas/Caribbean charters, any suggestions, (also within a modest budget
> please!)? 
> 
> 
> Richard
> 1987 33-II
> 
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal width (compass diameter) on a 37+?

[Dave Godwin]

Edd,

I think that Fred is correct. I haven’t measured my original pedestal recently 
but I’m pretty sure that it is the 6-7/8” version that came standard. The only 
reason I think this is because I have a entire new 8” pedestal in my shed as 
replacement and I seem to recall having to buy a converter to allow the smaller 
diameter compass to be used.

I can measure tomorrow if you need more info.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Nov 18, 2013, at 5:44 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

> Edd — I’m pretty sure you want the 6-7/8” version (either the 816ST-45 or the 
> 870ST-45 for the 336 Series pedestal).
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> On Nov 18, 2013, at 4:37 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>>  I’m looking to replace the section on my Edson pedestal that houses the 
>> engine controls. Before I make a special trip to City Island to measure, 
>> does anyone know if I should get the 6-7/8” one or the 8” one? 
>> 
>>  Help me Obi Wan Ken Heaton, you are my only hope . . . . 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>>  All the best,
>> 
>>  Edd
> 
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal width (compass diameter) on a 37+?

[Dave Godwin]

Edd and Fred,

I’m hoping that it works for Edd because I have the same original 
throttle/gear setup but have a new Edson pedestal with the 
forward=forward/back=reverse levers that I’m planning to put on this Spring. 
I’ll be interested in the outcome.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 19, 2013, at 10:58 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> Fred,
> 
>   No worries. I just spoke with Edson and the key to the whole thing is 
> the cable pull. If the cable gets pulled upwards, will the boat go forward? 
> 
>   I’m pretty sure that’s how it is on my 37+. When I put the boat in 
> forward, the cable on the inside of the pedestal gets pulled upwards, but I’m 
> going to have to check to be sure. 
> 
>   Thanks.
> 
> 
>   
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
> 
> On Nov 19, 2013, at 10:52 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
>> Well, that wasn’t my intention; think how much sadder you’d be if you put on 
>> the wrong thing, and shifting forward put you into reverse…   :^)
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>> On Nov 19, 2013, at 9:26 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>> 
>>> You may have just made me very sad.
>> 
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal width (compass diameter) on a 37+?

[Dave Godwin]

Edd,

Thanks for that. It’s been literally years that the new pedestal has been in my 
shed and I have forgotten most of the info that I had when I contemplated 
changing out my system. FWIW, I have the larger 402 series pedestal less the 
compass setup that fits it. Planning on using the 5” compass that came with the 
boat.

One thing that I find interesting is that (I think, haven’t used the boat in 
three years.) on my original pedestal I pull up to go in reverse and push down 
for forward. I can see that I am going have to check the direction of cable 
movement and then talk to Edson. Which isn't bad, they are very helpful.

At least the new pedestal is that special color, white.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 19, 2013, at 1:23 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> Dave,
> 
>   Had a long talk with Edson this morning. On my 37+, I need to pull up 
> the lever to put the boat in forward. The lever inside the pedestal then 
> pulls the shift cable upwards. With that set up, Edson says the 816ST-45 is 
> the one to go with.
> 
>   Best price I could find: 
> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=135720&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=product_ad&type=pla
>  
> 
>   The only downside is that my pedestal is all black. Edson said I can 
> get this replacement in any color, as long as it’s white (everyone’s a 
> comedian) 
> 
>   I’d say more, but I don’t want to get on Dwight Veinot’s “doubt list”. 
> 
> 
>   
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
> 
> On Nov 19, 2013, at 1:12 PM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> 
>> Edd and Fred,
>> 
>>  I’m hoping that it works for Edd because I have the same original 
>> throttle/gear setup but have a new Edson pedestal with the 
>> forward=forward/back=reverse levers that I’m planning to put on this Spring. 
>> I’ll be interested in the outcome.
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> 
>> On Nov 19, 2013, at 10:58 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>> 
>>> Fred,
>>> 
>>> No worries. I just spoke with Edson and the key to the whole thing is 
>>> the cable pull. If the cable gets pulled upwards, will the boat go forward? 
>>> 
>>> I’m pretty sure that’s how it is on my 37+. When I put the boat in 
>>> forward, the cable on the inside of the pedestal gets pulled upwards, but 
>>> I’m going to have to check to be sure. 
>>> 
>>> Thanks.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> All the best,
>>> 
>>> Edd
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Starship Enterprise
>>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> City Island, NY 
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>>> 
>>> On Nov 19, 2013, at 10:52 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Well, that wasn’t my intention; think how much sadder you’d be if you put 
>>>> on the wrong thing, and shifting forward put you into reverse…   :^)
>>>> 
>>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>>> 
>>>> On Nov 19, 2013, at 9:26 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> You may have just made me very sad.
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>>> 
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Redford's movie....

[Dave Godwin]

My wife and I saw it last night. And yes, like many of you I squirmed at the 
timing of repairs, the methods, the strange priority of responding to problems 
and so on. I was muttering the entire movie.

But my wife had a little different take on things. Since it seemed to be pretty 
clear from the opening of the movie that he was a bit of wreck in real life it 
might stand to reason that what you saw in his responses to problems may have 
been how he approached many of his problems in life and maybe why he was out 
there alone.

I thought this line of reasoning had some merit. And yeah, it’s Hollywood so...

My wife did reconsider the whole boat thing though.  :-)

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 21, 2013, at 11:01 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

> The bashing could go on for days, weeks, or until morale improves.
> I suggest looking at the string on Sailing Anarchy, they pretty much have it 
> covered.
> It was disappointing tho , all the little things, it could have been so much 
> better with very little effort. Just things like actually being concerned 
> that you boat is filling with water and stuffing a vest in the hole, bailing 
> with buckets, or tacking so as to not sail with a hole under water, etc -  
> But most of us sailors are an overly critical bunch, and non-sailors probably 
> won’t notice most of that stuff.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
> G Street
> Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 10:49 AM
> To: LKL Architects
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Redford's movie
>  
> I saw it last weekend; and agree that it’s an acting tour de force for 
> Redford.
>  
> Still, no PFD ever?!  And he clips his harness on to the lifelines?!  I’m not 
> sure they had a decent marine/sailing consultant on the film; or maybe they 
> ignored him/her…
>  
> I’m posting this to the list for further bashing.   :^)
>  
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>  
> On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:40 AM, LKL Architects  wrote:
> 
> 
>  
> Good morningFred
>  
> just curious if you have see "All Is Lost" ?  I saw it last nightand 
> kinda surprised comments about it have not hit the list.
>  
> Even the novice that I am  saw many flawsbut then again...it is 
> hollywoodand it is a moviebut did confirm one thing.S_ _ T 
> happens
>  
> okall for now...
>  
> Lloyd
>  
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Redford's movie....

[Dave Godwin]

Yeah, a bit confusing. Actually, she loves the boat. So long as it never leaves 
the Chesapeake Bay. She’s done a few Bay to Newport RI and back deliveries on 
larger boats plus a Delmarva circumnavigation on our boat.

These days when I mention that I’m planning on taking the boat to the Bahamas 
her response is “have a nice time, call when you arrive and let me know where 
the nearest airport is.”

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Nov 21, 2013, at 1:20 PM, coltrek  wrote:

> That's a happy face.  Does that mean she's never sailing again, or she is 
> going to encourage you to sail more by yourself?  (&take out a policy on you. 
>  . .)
> 
> 
> Wild Bill
> 
> 
> ---- Original message 
> From: Dave Godwin  
> Date: 11/21/2013 12:20 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Redford's movie 
> 
> 
> My wife and I saw it last night. And yes, like many of you I squirmed at the 
> timing of repairs, the methods, the strange priority of responding to 
> problems and so on. I was muttering the entire movie.
> 
> But my wife had a little different take on things. Since it seemed to be 
> pretty clear from the opening of the movie that he was a bit of wreck in real 
> life it might stand to reason that what you saw in his responses to problems 
> may have been how he approached many of his problems in life and maybe why he 
> was out there alone.
> 
> I thought this line of reasoning had some merit. And yeah, it’s Hollywood 
> so...
> 
> My wife did reconsider the whole boat thing though.  :-)
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 
> On Nov 21, 2013, at 11:01 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
>> The bashing could go on for days, weeks, or until morale improves.
>> I suggest looking at the string on Sailing Anarchy, they pretty much have it 
>> covered.
>> It was disappointing tho , all the little things, it could have been so much 
>> better with very little effort. Just things like actually being concerned 
>> that you boat is filling with water and stuffing a vest in the hole, bailing 
>> with buckets, or tacking so as to not sail with a hole under water, etc -  
>> But most of us sailors are an overly critical bunch, and non-sailors 
>> probably won’t notice most of that stuff.
>>  
>> Bill Coleman
>> C&C 39 
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
>> G Street
>> Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 10:49 AM
>> To: LKL Architects
>> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Redford's movie
>>  
>> I saw it last weekend; and agree that it’s an acting tour de force for 
>> Redford.
>>  
>> Still, no PFD ever?!  And he clips his harness on to the lifelines?!  I’m 
>> not sure they had a decent marine/sailing consultant on the film; or maybe 
>> they ignored him/her…
>>  
>> I’m posting this to the list for further bashing.   :^)
>>  
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>  
>> On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:40 AM, LKL Architects  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> Good morningFred
>>  
>> just curious if you have see "All Is Lost" ?  I saw it last nightand 
>> kinda surprised comments about it have not hit the list.
>>  
>> Even the novice that I am  saw many flawsbut then again...it is 
>> hollywoodand it is a moviebut did confirm one thing.S_ _ T 
>> happens
>>  
>> okall for now...
>>  
>> Lloyd
>>  
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Black Magic C&C 34+

[Dave Godwin]

Watch out for Lockwood's Folly.  Kinda shallow. And stay warm!

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 25, 2013, at 18:22, Andrew Burton  wrote:

> Hi dear, 
> Moving along in the ditch. Going to be another long night!
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Nov 25, 2013, at 18:00, Eric Baumes  wrote:
> 
>> Hi, 
>> 
>> This is Eric I own Hee Soo (formerly Black Magic). She seems to have had a 
>> few designations in terms of hull.
>> 
>> Here is what I know.
>> 
>> She came from the factory in 1993 designated as 34/36+ hull but had the 
>> triple spreader offshore rig. Some time around 2000 or so she was 
>> retrofitted with the 6'4" Rob Ball designed "mid-draft" keel replacing the 
>> 7'4" original.
>> 
>> I have seen her rated as an XL and currently is rated by YRALIS as an XLMD 
>> (for mid-draft).
>> 
>> Best,
>> 
>> Eric
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> "I want 10,000 tough guys, and I want 10,000 soft guys to make the tough 
>> guys look tougher! And here's how I want them arranged: tough, soft, tough, 
>> tough, soft, tough, soft, soft, tough, tough, soft, soft, tough, soft, 
>> tough, soft!"
>> 
>> Russ Cargill
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, Nov 24, 2013 at 7:30 PM, Ryan Raber  wrote:
>> Any one know how to get a hold of Eric owner of C&C 34r "BLACK MAGIC"?  I'm 
>> thinking about doing a cat 2 race next summer and his boat is on the ORR 
>> stability index list.  I would like to verify it's a true sistership to my 
>> boat.
>> 
>> Ryan Raber
>> SCAPA
>> 91' 34/36r #9
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Andrew running the ditch south

[Dave Godwin]

I’m with the “go!” statement.  I’ve done the ICW both ways, Georgetown, SC 
being the southernmost exit point, on everything from 28’ sailboats to a 100’ 
private motor yacht which had a draft a good bit deeper that 8’ and it’s the 
expensive bits that hit first and had no difficulties. Dumb luck probably. It 
has been ten years since the last trip and although things seem to be getting 
shallower in the areas that Rick mentioned I would take my boat.

That is of course IF I finish my refit and IF I do get it to the Bahamas. I’ll 
use the ICW to Beaufort, NC if not further South. The loaded draft on my boat 
is easily 6’ 8”, if not more.

Of course, prudence never hurts; my brother’s father-in-law, an ex-destroyer 
captain and ex-sailboat racer cruised to Florida and the Bahamas from the 
Chesapeake almost every other winter in retirement. He would tow is his dinghy 
with a kedging anchor and line stowed in it.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 26, 2013, at 7:00 AM, Andrew Burton  wrote:

> We're in the Alligator -Pungo Canal at the moment and we've had not problems 
> (so far). The trick seems to be to stay on the "magenta line" except at the 
> entrance to the Alligator River. I think 7' would be OK, you tend to be more 
> watchful than someone who draws only 4'. I took 9' down in 1984 and didn't 
> touch. I've been thinking about whether I could take Peregrine with 7'3" 
> draft and I've no doubt we could.
>  If you do touch--and it's mostly mud--the trick is to figure out which way 
> is the deep water and motor forward to get there. Wiggle the keel around in 
> the mud with the engine going full blast, while waggling the rudder, and just 
> work your way through the mud. Reversing off rarely works and gets silt in 
> the engine intake; not so good for impellers.
> Slocum said, "to any young man contemplating a voyage, I would say "go!""
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Nov 26, 2013, at 5:54, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:
> 
>> Andy,
>>  
>> No trouble with 6.5’ draft in the ditch?  I’ve often thought of making a run 
>> south, but the thought of dodging shallow water the whole way puts me off.  
>> I haven’t made it past milepost zero yet.
>>  
>> Jake
>>  
>>  
>> Jake Brodersen
>> “Midnight Mistress”
>> C&C 35 Mk-III
>> Hampton Va
>>  
>> 
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf OfAndrew 
>> Burton
>> Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 10:05 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Andrew running the ditch south
>>  
>> The Valiant draws 6.5'. It's now a bad boat for it, though the prop seems 
>> under-pitched so we're only getting 6.7 knots.
>>  Right now the ditch is dark, but well marked. Just have to get through 
>> Coinjock and we're in open water so life gets simpler and I can take a nap!
>> Andy
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI 
>> USA02840
>>  
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again

[Dave Godwin]

Richard,

Pretty sure that they were all built at NOTL.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
ZCC67018M82D


On Nov 26, 2013, at 11:35 PM, Richard N. Bush  wrote:

> Bill, do you know where the 37s (1981-1985 production) were built? Thanks
> Richard
> 1987 33-II
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
> 502-584-7255
> -Original Message-
> From: Bill Bina 
> To: cnc-list 
> Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2013 4:00 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again
> 
> Despite the never-ending confusion over how the numbering system works, no 
> (none) 35's were ever built in Rhode Island. You would need the molds for 
> that, and they were always in Canada. The numbering system really isn't that 
> complicated, but people seem to go crazy trying to figure it out anyway. :-) 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 11/26/2013 3:32 PM, dwight veinot wrote:
>> Jim
>>  
>> That was solved earlier, apparently the RI plant was opened in Feb 1974 
>> right in the middle of the 35 MKII production run: I can’t remember who but 
>> someone on this list explained that and what was previously the NOL letters 
>> became the RI letters in the ser. no. or something like that, so some of the 
>> 147 35 MKII's appear to have been built in Canada and some in the US
>> 
>> Dwight Veinot
>> Alianna 
>> C&C 35 MKII
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

[Dave Godwin]

Another +1 for Boatleather. I’ve done my 40” wheel twice, once with the foam 
and once without. As someone said earlier, a good wintertime project. I also 
had them cut me covers for the side and back grab-rails on my dodger. 

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Nov 27, 2013, at 10:12 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

> +1 on the Boatleather cover.  I did mine several winters ago, and the results 
> have been great!
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> On Nov 26, 2013, at 7:51 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:
> 
>> Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.  Have 
>> bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not difficult but 
>> takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go with foam under it.  
>> A great winter project.
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy  wrote:
>>> 
>>> One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the wheel 
>>> on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of the 
>>> season around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might have 
>>> done it before.  First, does anyone have experience with boatleather.com or 
>>> other suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on the market, I have 
>>> had trouble finding many alternatives.  Recommendations are welcome.
> 
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Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Dave Godwin]

I’m in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing that is 
necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did this 14 
years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious little left 
afterwards so I’m inclined to do the same again.

Anyway, I’m out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was 
wondering what others were using. Like many, I’d like to keep weight aloft as 
low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew won’t 
complain. Recommendations?

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
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Re: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

[Dave Godwin]

David,

I had the same problems when I bought our current C&C 37, circa 1982. For me at 
least it involved a good bit more than re-heading the rod. If you have the same 
style Navtec rod ends and tangs that I did which may be likely given the age of 
our boats then you may be in for a bit more that just re-heading the rod.

As regards my spreaders, the tips were fine but the root/base of each were worn 
away to the point that you could grab the shrouds and pull them fore and aft a 
good foot. Or better. The riggers simply hell-arc’d new aluminum and drilled 
new pivot holes and we were off to the races. Well, docks maybe. Anyway, don’t 
know if that is a solution for the tips but worth a talk with the riggers.

For the standing rigging, my Navtec tangs were the old “Frankenstein neck plug” 
style, comprised of stainless steel heads screwed to an aluminum through 
bolt/rod. As related to me by the riggers, these were supposed to move to allow 
some fore and aft movement. Over time because of the interaction of the 
stainless and aluminum they seized up. As a result of that the tangs began to 
cut into the head of the rod ends.

We replaced all the tangs with the newer style stemball and stemball tang 
technology. That was 13 years ago and I don’t have any distinct cost numbers 
available for that work and they wouldn’t be useful by now anyway given 
inflation.

As Joel said, there are other options. When I added roller furling at the same 
time, I opted to go with wire rigging for the forestay.

Hope that helps.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Nov 27, 2013, at 11:49 AM, David Folsom  wrote:

> I am looking at redoing my rod rigging in the next few months. I know this 
> topic has been discussed in the  past, but I would appreciate your input.
> 
> 
> My upper spreaders are badly corroded at the tip- and so I am going to 
> replace them. Does anybody have suggestions for where I can obtain just the 
> tips? or do I have to replace the entire spreaders?
> 
> I am also considering re-heading most of the rod, rather than replacing, as I 
> can't afford to replace it all at this time. Does anyone have experience with 
> getting the rod re-headed rather than replaced? I think I will have to 
> replace the upper diagonal and the shroud that goes from the lower spreader 
> to the top of the mast. I would then re-head the backstay, and the lower 
> shroud and lower diagonal. The forestay is new.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with replacing the mast fittings? I understand 
> the fittings that were originally used are now considered obsolete.
> 
> Finally, how much did people spend on their replacing the rod rigging?
> 
> thanks again for the helpful advice
> 
> David Folsom
> Rebel Maid, 1981 C&C 36
> San Diego
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Re: Stus-List re-heading rod rigging

[Dave Godwin]

David,

Well, I did find the costs for redoing the rod ends and tangs. In 1999 it was 
~$1,400.00 US so factor in inflation since then and that would come to about 
$1,900.00.

Maybe.

Good luck,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:15 PM, Dave Godwin  wrote:

> David,
> 
> I had the same problems when I bought our current C&C 37, circa 1982. For me 
> at least it involved a good bit more than re-heading the rod. If you have the 
> same style Navtec rod ends and tangs that I did which may be likely given the 
> age of our boats then you may be in for a bit more that just re-heading the 
> rod.
> 
> As regards my spreaders, the tips were fine but the root/base of each were 
> worn away to the point that you could grab the shrouds and pull them fore and 
> aft a good foot. Or better. The riggers simply hell-arc’d new aluminum and 
> drilled new pivot holes and we were off to the races. Well, docks maybe. 
> Anyway, don’t know if that is a solution for the tips but worth a talk with 
> the riggers.
> 
> For the standing rigging, my Navtec tangs were the old “Frankenstein neck 
> plug” style, comprised of stainless steel heads screwed to an aluminum 
> through bolt/rod. As related to me by the riggers, these were supposed to 
> move to allow some fore and aft movement. Over time because of the 
> interaction of the stainless and aluminum they seized up. As a result of that 
> the tangs began to cut into the head of the rod ends.
> 
> We replaced all the tangs with the newer style stemball and stemball tang 
> technology. That was 13 years ago and I don’t have any distinct cost numbers 
> available for that work and they wouldn’t be useful by now anyway given 
> inflation.
> 
> As Joel said, there are other options. When I added roller furling at the 
> same time, I opted to go with wire rigging for the forestay.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 
> 
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 11:49 AM, David Folsom  wrote:
> 
>> I am looking at redoing my rod rigging in the next few months. I know this 
>> topic has been discussed in the  past, but I would appreciate your input.
>> 
>> 
>> My upper spreaders are badly corroded at the tip- and so I am going to 
>> replace them. Does anybody have suggestions for where I can obtain just the 
>> tips? or do I have to replace the entire spreaders?
>> 
>> I am also considering re-heading most of the rod, rather than replacing, as 
>> I can't afford to replace it all at this time. Does anyone have experience 
>> with getting the rod re-headed rather than replaced? I think I will have to 
>> replace the upper diagonal and the shroud that goes from the lower spreader 
>> to the top of the mast. I would then re-head the backstay, and the lower 
>> shroud and lower diagonal. The forestay is new.
>> 
>> Does anyone have experience with replacing the mast fittings? I understand 
>> the fittings that were originally used are now considered obsolete.
>> 
>> Finally, how much did people spend on their replacing the rod rigging?
>> 
>> thanks again for the helpful advice
>> 
>> David Folsom
>> Rebel Maid, 1981 C&C 36
>> San Diego
>> ___
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Dave Godwin]

Jake and others,

Yeah, after doing some simple intertubes searching and pricing I’ve come to the 
same conclusion, stick with Sta-set X. It was and has been fine. I was just 
assuming that some new wonder line had been invented that would be a logical 
replacement. The Dyneema lines were a bit, no, a lot pricey. Especially for 
someone that will just be cruising their boat like I intend to.

Now I just have to decide on the color. :-)

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Nov 27, 2013, at 6:09 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

> Dave,
> 
> There's nothing wrong with Stat-set-X.  It is much better than the regular
> Sta-set by far.  I think Sta-set-X is a great value for what you get.  If
> you like it, stick with it.
> 
> Jake
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
> Godwin
> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:26 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
> 
> I'm in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing that
> is necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did
> this 14 years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious
> little left afterwards so I'm inclined to do the same again.
> 
> Anyway, I'm out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was
> wondering what others were using. Like many, I'd like to keep weight aloft
> as low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew
> won't complain. Recommendations?
> 
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Dave Godwin]

Dennis,

Interesting. I’m at the New England (soon to be Teufelberger in Feb! Say that 3 
times real fast…) web site right now. Their calculator is calling for 11mm 
(7/16’s) Sta-set X which I currently have for my boat. I’m not seeing a Plus 
version listed but the calculator also recommends the T-900 in 10mm (3/8’s) for 
main and jib halyards.

I agree with the observation about the Sta-set X being stiff. That is something 
that I wouldn’t mind changing but the price delta would be the deciding factor. 
As a cruiser these days, the jib goes up in the Summer and comes down in the 
Fall. We’ve stopped using the symmetrical spinnaker in our dotage so until we 
get a new asym, that halyard never gets touched.

Decisions, decisions.

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 27, 2013, at 7:05 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Dave,
> 
> I have both Sta-Set X and Sta-Set X Plus halyards.  The Sta-Set X is 7/16 
> inch; the Sta-Set X Plus, 3/8 inch.  I prefer the Plus for several reasons.  
> Lighter, less weight aloft (although not much).  It seems more pliable, that 
> is, less stiff.  It's easier to splice but only marginally.  
> 
> Both use a parallel core.  I read somewhere that uni-directional core lines 
> don't like to stay bent in the same spot.  This is common with halyards.  
> They stay bent around the sheaves in the same spot for a while.  However, NE 
> ropes lists halyard use for both.
> 
> With Plus's slightly greater strength, you might be able to drop down a size 
> and save $$.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> From: Dave Godwin 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 5:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
> 
> Jake and others,
> 
> Yeah, after doing some simple intertubes searching and pricing I’ve come to 
> the same conclusion, stick with Sta-set X. It was and has been fine. I was 
> just assuming that some new wonder line had been invented that would be a 
> logical replacement. The Dyneema lines were a bit, no, a lot pricey. 
> Especially for someone that will just be cruising their boat like I intend to.
> 
> Now I just have to decide on the color. :-)
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 
> 
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 6:09 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> 
> > Dave,
> > 
> > There's nothing wrong with Stat-set-X.  It is much better than the regular
> > Sta-set by far.  I think Sta-set-X is a great value for what you get.  If
> > you like it, stick with it.
> > 
> > Jake
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave
> > Godwin
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 10:26 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
> > 
> > I'm in the process of pricing out some items for our boat and one thing that
> > is necessary is a complete replacement of all the running rigging. I did
> > this 14 years ago using an entire roll of Sta-set-X. There was precious
> > little left afterwards so I'm inclined to do the same again.
> > 
> > Anyway, I'm out of the performance sailing/hardware loop these days and was
> > wondering what others were using. Like many, I'd like to keep weight aloft
> > as low as possible while at the same time keeping enough hand that crew
> > won't complain. Recommendations?
> > 
> > Best,
> > Dave
> > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> > 
> > 
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> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.

[Dave Godwin]

Oh yes, I tried that once. On my other boats I used to splice lines myself.

That’s why when we rebuilt the rig I had the riggers completely replace all the 
running rigging with the Sta-set X while they had the mast. It was pretty nice 
running all the new lines with the mast on the ground. New lines, new shackles. 
Flemish loops, my favorite…

Thanks guys.

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Nov 27, 2013, at 10:22 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> I second that.  Any line with a uni-directional or parallel core is a bitch 
> to splice.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> From: Wally Bryant 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 8:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Another halyard material question.
> 
> Dave - If you do your own splices, Sta-set X can be a challenge. 
> Frankly, I think it's *great* rope, and very strong. I used it for my 
> halyards on my last boat, and recall that after I finished the splices I 
> swore I'd hire somebody next time. I think most riggers don't like it 
> because you can do a splice in some of these newer ropes --that have 
> basic double braid construction -- in minutes, while the linear Vectran 
> core of the Sta-Set X requires a different kind of splice.
> 
> Wal
> 
> you wrote:
> > I agree with the observation about the Sta-set X being stiff. That is 
> > something that I wouldn’t mind changing but the price delta would be the 
> > deciding factor.
> 
> 
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Stus-List Not sailing related whatsoever.

[Dave Godwin]

To all the denizens and reprobates of the C&C list, of all locales and 
nationalities, Happy Thankshannukah/Thanuhah/Whatever!

I hope that everyone will be enjoying their day whether it’s a holiday for them 
or not. We’ve got the traditional Thanksgiving brisket and potato latke ready 
to go along with my brother’s turkey and fried oysters. Should be an 
interesting mashup.

Wal, I hope that wherever you are that you are enjoying your day. Probably 
having a rum drink with picture of a Pilgrim pasted on the bulkhead…

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
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Re: Stus-List : new boat, 1985 C&C 37

[Dave Godwin]

Congratulations Richard! We've had ours for 17 years now and have loved it. 
Pretty sure you will to. If you get around to the Chesapeake Bay stop by and 
tie up.

Also, if you ever need old used parts I've got a bunch lying around. ;-)

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 13, 2013, at 12:37 AM, "Richard N. Bush"  wrote:
> 
> Hello friends; I am happy to let you know that I have just received delivery 
> of my fourth (yes 4th!), C&C; a 1985 37; centerboard model.  We had many 
> issues getting it trucked in from Newburyport, MA; mostly weather related, 
> but some delays due to the trucking company.
>  
> It is in pretty good shape, however, because we're in this deep freeze I wont 
> be able to make a really good assessment of what needs to be done until it 
> warms up a bit.   I will have a million questions then!   
>  
> A C&C is a novelty here on the Ohio River; the only ones anyone around here 
> have seen have been those which we have brought in; first we brought a 1982 
> 25 from Austin Texas; then a 1985 29-2 from Cleveland; then a 1987 33-2 from 
> Jacksonville, Fl, and now the 37;  the 29 went to Tennessee, but the 25 is 
> still here; and of course the 33-2 is up for sale-I am what the realtors call 
> a "motivated seller"!;
>  
> The local guys asked me why I stayed with the C&C; I thought about it; 
> originally I bought the 25 without knowing anything about C&C's other than a 
> general reputation for being quality boats; after I had the boat  a while, I 
> was impressed by the workmanship on the 25 so when I wanted to move up, I 
> looked at the 29s; then when we wanted something bigger, I went for the 
> sailing ability of the 33-2; now, I figure I have enough research knowledge 
> (mostly through the collective wisdom of this group) and hands-on experience 
> that I couldn't go wrong in staying in the C&C line.  The truth is, I looked 
> at other brands and simple kept coming back to the  C&C; as someone said in 
> the recent thread about taxes; the C&Cs are the best bang for your buck and 
> they sail better than anything else out there.
>  
> Many thanks,
> Richard
> 1985 37; Ohio River, Mile 584;
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
> 502-584-7255
>  
>>  
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Re: Stus-List : new boat, 1985 C&C 37 (Now: pedestal info)

[Dave Godwin]

I’m probably not going to be of much help there. I have the style of Edson 
pedestal that has the shift lever to port and the throttle control to 
starboard. They both work in the vertical plane in a box aft of the pedestal 
proper and the cabling runs in stainless steel tubing outside also. In my case, 
I am completely replacing the pedestal with a 402 series Edson pedestal.

My original pedestal should come free sometime next summer…

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Dec 14, 2013, at 4:37 PM, Richard N. Bush  wrote:

> Dave, thanks, send me you list, I'm ready!
>  
> One thing I've noticed already is that the gear shift lever is on the aft 
> side of the helm station, rather than on the port side, which is what I am 
> used to; I recall that recently someone changed the shift lever from the aft 
> to the side and it apparently wasn't a major ordeal; what do you have and do 
> have and what would you recommend? 
>  
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
> 502-584-7255
> -Original Message-
> From: Dave Godwin 
> To: cnc-list 
> Sent: Sat, Dec 14, 2013 2:34 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List : new boat, 1985 C&C 37
> 
> Congratulations Richard! We've had ours for 17 years now and have loved it. 
> Pretty sure you will to. If you get around to the Chesapeake Bay stop by and 
> tie up.
> 
> Also, if you ever need old used parts I've got a bunch lying around. ;-)
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Dec 13, 2013, at 12:37 AM, "Richard N. Bush"  wrote:
> 
>> Hello friends; I am happy to let you know that I have just received delivery 
>> of my fourth (yes 4th!), C&C; a 1985 37; centerboard model.  We had many 
>> issues getting it trucked in from Newburyport, MA; mostly weather related, 
>> but some delays due to the trucking company.
>>  
>> It is in pretty good shape, however, because we're in this deep freeze I 
>> wont be able to make a really good assessment of what needs to be done until 
>> it warms up a bit.   I will have a million questions then!   
>>  
>> A C&C is a novelty here on the Ohio River; the only ones anyone around here 
>> have seen have been those which we have brought in; first we brought a 1982 
>> 25 from Austin Texas; then a 1985 29-2 from Cleveland; then a 1987 33-2 from 
>> Jacksonville, Fl, and now the 37;  the 29 went to Tennessee, but the 25 is 
>> still here; and of course the 33-2 is up for sale-I am what the realtors 
>> call a "motivated seller"!;
>>  
>> The local guys asked me why I stayed with the C&C; I thought about it; 
>> originally I bought the 25 without knowing anything about C&C's other than a 
>> general reputation for being quality boats; after I had the boat  a while, I 
>> was impressed by the workmanship on the 25 so when I wanted to move up, I 
>> looked at the 29s; then when we wanted something bigger, I went for the 
>> sailing ability of the 33-2; now, I figure I have enough research knowledge 
>> (mostly through the collective wisdom of this group) and hands-on experience 
>> that I couldn't go wrong in staying in the C&C line.  The truth is, I looked 
>> at other brands and simple kept coming back to the  C&C; as someone said in 
>> the recent thread about taxes; the C&Cs are the best bang for your buck and 
>> they sail better than anything else out there.
>>  
>> Many thanks,
>> Richard
>> 1985 37; Ohio River, Mile 584;
>> 
>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
>> 502-584-7255
>>  
>>  
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com9
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> 
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Dave Godwin]

Dang.  Guess all the little fishes are getting their fins warmed around my boat.

Frigoboat Keel Cooler system….

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Dec 18, 2013, at 10:47 AM, Andrew Burton  wrote:

> One thing I did when I installed my SeaFrost air-cooled unit was vent it into 
> the hanging locker just forward of the galley. It makes a great place to hang 
> and dry foul weather gear. Every time I pull a nice dry jacket out of the 
> locker, I am reminded of just how clever I am! It offsets all the other 
> examples to the contrary.
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> 
> On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 10:21 AM, kelly petew  wrote:
> allen, Hi,
> I have the "Cold Machine" [Adler/Barbour] in my 30.  It's air cooled, and 
> I've had no problems with it in the 10+ years I've owned Siren Song.  
> It was installed by PO.  
> It is located under the port settee, directly in front of the galley sink.  
> It's vented on the right just above sole.  
> Because it's air-cooled, it probably adds to the cabin temps, but I don't 
> think it's material.  
> I'll freeze a gallon jug of H20, put it in the box, and turn on the frig.  
> This gets everything cold quickly without a lot of melting ice.  
>  
> FWIW,  a cruising friend of mine has a water-cooled unit [Grunnert, I think]. 
>  While the unit does a really good job, we had lots of problems this past 
> season with blockages mainly due to jellyfish ["the cockroach of the 
> Chesapeake!].
>  
> So, I'd go with air cooled unit.  
> As far as ampacity, I have 2 house batteries, and 1 start batt., but it's 
> probably 50% of your capacity.   I usually leave it "off" unless I'm plugged 
> in, or motoring.
> I'm curious what brand of battery you have, and did you have to modify the 
> aft cabin space??  I'd like to increase my amps.
>  
> Pete Winters
>  
> s/v Siren Song
> '91 C&C30 MKII
> Deltaville, VA
>  
> 
> ___
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List C&Cco MK 1 Half Hull wall madel

[Dave Godwin]

"Calling Dr Burton. Dr. Burton…”

Cheers,
Dave


On Dec 19, 2013, at 9:33 AM, Curtis  wrote:

> Anybody have a contact or know who may have or make wall models of half 
> Hulls? I would love one on my office wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List C&Cco MK 1 Half Hull wall madel

[Dave Godwin]

Curtiss,

Despite my joking in the prior email response, I have a Cal 25 and a C&C 37 
half-hulls from Trident Studios on my wall.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Dec 19, 2013, at 9:33 AM, Curtis  wrote:

> Anybody have a contact or know who may have or make wall models of half 
> Hulls? I would love one on my office wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List C&Cco MK 1 Half Hull wall madel

[Dave Godwin]

Andy,

Damn. Nice pricing. You have a mold for a J/42? I told myself (and promised my 
wife…) I was done with upsizing boats but I’m getting the itch for something 
different. ;-)

Cheers.
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Dec 19, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Andrew Burton  wrote:

> Curtiss, $391.50 with an engraved brass plaque. Special price for Stu's list. 
> see www.tridentstudio.com
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40 
> Peregrine
> 
> 
> On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 3:37 PM, Curtis  wrote:
> $ should be around $400. tp $500.00 if he is competitive with the other ones 
> I have researched today.
> 
> 
> On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 1:33 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
> wow. As if I didn't already have enough things on the "want to do" list. 
> Thanks guys.
> Andrew, if it's not too much trouble, for my own curiosity would you mind 
> emailing me off-list and letting me know what a C&C 32 half hull would cost 
> to have made? It's my birthday in 11 months which gives me a lot of time to 
> drop hints with the missus.
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Gary Nylander  
> wrote:
> Curtis, we hold a half-model making class twice a year at the Chesapeake Bay 
> Maritime Museum. It is probably out of the question for you to attend 
> (distance, lodging, etc.) but the fundamentals are not difficult.
>  
> You must make a set of templates from the cross section of the boat - ours 
> have about 8 templates for a 10-12 inch model (we do the Pride of Baltimore - 
> a clipper type ship). Then set up your blank - we use two different colors of 
> wood to give it some drama - joined at the waterline. Then band saw the 
> profile from the side and top and you are ready to carve. On our style of 
> boats, the keel would be the most difficult, but you could carve that 
> separately and join it to the hull (like the real ones) on the plaque.
>  
> Just be careful - we don't have any concave areas on our boats like the bow 
> area of the Pride, so it is pretty straight forward.
>  
> Lots of sanding.
>  
> Good luck - Gary
> - Original Message -
> From: Curtis
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 10:19 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&Cco MK 1 Half Hull wall madel
> 
> Chris,
> Thanks I was hoping for someone to encourage me in that direction. i am quite 
> the hands on type and have made cigar humidors in the past.
> Just not sure the process and how to make it to scale. I do have the original 
> drawings for my C&C 30MK1 and all the factory build sheets as well.
> maybe I will try this?
> Any help on the process Would be greatly appreciated.
> Cheers, Curtis 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 10:09 AM, Chris Price  wrote:
> Curtis, my brother works in the model shop at the Naval Academy and promised 
> me a half hull of Pradel for Christmas when I bought her 14 years ago! I 
> finally decided to make one myself with zero experience and minimal tools. It 
> came out fantastic and I have a great deal of satisfaction when I look at it 
> on the wall. It was a lot easier than I expected.
> 
> Chris Price
> Pradel
> 35 Mk I
> 
> From: "Curtis" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 9:33:14 AM
> 
> Subject: Stus-List C&Cco MK 1 Half Hull wall madel
> 
> Anybody have a contact or know who may have or make wall models of half 
> Hulls? I would love one on my office wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> 
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Mountain Hardware Foulies?

[Dave Godwin]

Kevin,

I’ll chime in because over the years I’ve learned the hard way that once you 
get wet and cold, you tend to stay that way and it isn’t much fun.

Based only on looking at their web-site I’d be very leery of all the zippers 
that those pants have. One across the back and what looks like side zippers to 
ease getting them on and off. I suspect that they will allow ingress of water 
fairly early on in conditions that are not simply rain, i.e., boarding waves 
and sitting in pools of water in the cockpit. To some degree they remind me of 
some of my motorcycle riding gear which is fine for riding in the rain for 
hours on end (and leak…) but I wouldn’t necessarily trust it off-shore or on 
extended coastal cruises.

I can’t really tell but those gaiters might be a bit of a problem with putting 
on, wearing and pulling off a pair of offshore boots. Dunno. The other thing is 
I would look very carefully at the material that is used, especially in the 
seat and the knees. According to the website, the material is nylon. As you 
probably know, a boat’s non-skid, sundry cleats and un-taped clevis pins can 
pretty short work of thinner, less tough materials than a good high denier 
Cordura. Once your foulies open up they’re done for.

I’ve got a fair amount “invested” in rain gear for hiking, motorcycle riding 
and sailing and as nice as all those products are, I wouldn’t mix them across 
the sports. They all seem to be purpose built for the activity. My hiking gear 
is lightweight and made to keep me dry while doing a fair amount of exertion 
whereas my offshore foul-weather gear is sort of the opposite of that, made to 
completely stop water from coming in.

Also, I’ve found that Gore-tex is more expensive than some of the other similar 
products but in my case I’ve gotten what I paid for when compared to items I’ve 
had that were not Gore-tex.

Hope that helps. And full disclosure, I love my Musto Offshore gear but I will 
admit, pretty spendy...

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Dec 30, 2013, at 4:00 PM, Kevin Driscoll  wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> I am thinking about buying these pants for foul weather trousers. My wife has 
> a 50% deal at the employee store. $500 pants for $250. Seems like a good way 
> to get high quality fouls with out spending major money for Musto etc. 
> Anybody have an opinion as to why this may be a bad idea?
> 
> http://www.mountainhardwear.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-MountainHardwear_US-Site/default/mProduct-Show?pid=OM4772&start=12
> 
> Sent from my Tablet
> 
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Re: Stus-List Scouting report on old C&C 38s

[Dave Godwin]

Jim,

I’m going to jump in and echo what others are saying: don’t get overly 
concerned about the downwind characteristics of the older IOR influenced hulls 
like C&C 38.

If you are planning on pressing on as much canvass as possible while going 
downwind then you may have your hands full. But that’s racing. Ease off a bit. 
I’ve raced on IOR One-tons and there is a vast difference between that “IOR” 
and the “IOR shape" of the earlier C&C’s. For that matter I would suggest that 
one of loveliest but biggest handfuls of a boat downwind was the Ted Hood 
designed Gulfstar Custom 40. I loved that boat and almost bought one but, Lord, 
downwind with the ‘chute up there wasn’t a wheel big enough with enough 
purchase to keep it under control. “Broaches R Us.” The C&C 38 is not even in 
that category or the old racing IOR boats for that matter.

Personally, I think that our C&C 37 is the follow-on to the C&C 38 (yes, I know 
 smaller but the specs put it at 37’ 9”...). A bit less radical in hull design 
and a bit better fins and rudder shape but essentially the same animal. We love 
our 37 although we are starting to think about moving up to a J/42 for other 
reasons. To echo what Martin’s wife says about the 36, my wife loves the 37 
because it is the perfect blend of speed, comfort, sea-keeping, dryness and 
most importantly the ability to handle the loads and be able to manage around 
the docks by the two of us.

The only bad thing I can say about the 38 is that the cockpit is bit pinched. 
So is ours. Eh...

If you spring for it you won’t be unhappy. Really good looking and nice boat. 
What Martins says, it will do distance sailing comfortably.

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Chesapeake Bay


On Dec 31, 2013, at 4:45 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

> Jim,
>  
> Based on my experience with racing and cruising C&C designs offshore and in 
> the PNW, below is my “tail happy” rating of boats I have owned or sailed 
> extensively (listed most stable to most tail happy):
>  
> 1970 C&C 43 (modified deep rudder); 1974 C&C 39 with deep rudder upgrade; 
> 1974 C&C 39 with original rudder; 1980 C&C 36.
>  
> The most tail happy 1980 36 is still my wife’s favorite for PNW cruising.  
> She prefers the 36 over the 43 to the extent that she has recently stated “I 
> wish we had the 36 back, can you find one and trade?”  Her preference is 
> based on ease of handling around fixed objects and when anchoring.  The 43’s 
> powerful sail plan and extra 10,000 lbs of displacement are also a concern.
>  
> For PNW cruising including around Vancouver Island the 1977 38 should be 
> excellent.  I would downplay the concern about the IOR style handling issues 
> when powered up unless you plan to aggressively race.  We have raced Calypso 
> in the local (PNW) Cruiser/Racer events mostly double-handed or with 4 to 6 
> crew.  Calypso does very well in a blow but suffers from poor light air 
> performance made worse by the cruising gear we added back when the plan was 
> to head for Mexico.
>  
> In short, I would not hesitate to sail a 77 C&C 38 anywhere in the PNW, and 
> be comfortable in sailing it to Mexico or Hawaii.  We keep Calypso at 
> Shilshole Bay Marinia.  If you are in the Seattle area Saturday I will be on 
> board setting up for this winter’s projects.  Drop me a line if you want to 
> meet and discuss old school C&C sailing.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1970 C&C 43
> Seattle
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> lynchja...@comcast.net
> Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 6:50 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Scouting report on old C&C 38s
>  
> Hello gang,
> 
> I’m just about to close the deal on a 1977 C&C 38 Mark II. The boat is 
> updated and loaded for cruising. I love its lines and the way it sails—at 
> least on my sea trial. And I’ve had a crush on 1970s C&Cs since I was a 
> teenager.  It surveyed well but I’m still wishing I could hear from more 
> people familiar with racing and cruising these old 38s.
> 
> I enjoy racing but my primary intention with this boat is to cruise it in 
> Puget Sound and in and around Vancouver Island. For my tastes, It seems like 
> a nice roomy fast cruiser. From listening to a few racers, one potential 
> concern is it might broach too easily with the chute up in a breeze. While I 
> don’t intend to fly one often, I’d obviously hope it’s not too unstable 
> downwind. I know some IOR designs are notorious but I’m not always clear 
> whether to blame the design or the skipper.
> 
> I saw where a 38 of this vintage, GADZOOKS, was first overall in a race from 
> Massachusetts to Bermuda in 2011. And I’ve seen where another old 38 
> circumnavigated. Both of which should give me faith. But I’d still love to 
> hear from any of you who can give me a scouting report on how this boat sails 
> on different points of sail in different conditions as well as any other 
> insights you're willing to offer.
> 
> Thanks in advance, and happy 

Re: Stus-List old C&C 38s vs. J-42

[Dave Godwin]

>  I expect the J/42 would be almost as good as a C&C. <

Martin,

Yup. I’ve raced on J/30’s, J/24’s, J/41’s, J/105’s, and J/120’s. I had a chance 
years ago to informally go head-to-head upwind against a new J/42 in flat water 
and ~15 knots of breeze. It couldn’t get away from us. I may have pissed the 
owner off. I have always been aware that the J-boat has done a very good job of 
“marketing" and I’ll leave it at that. I don’t want to start any flame wars.

We’re in our early 60’s and I’m moving into cruising mode. The J/42 allows us 
(me) to handle a larger boat easily and comes with two separate cabins at each 
end of the boat which becomes a consideration when guests are involved for a 
week or so in in the Bahamas.

If it were just me and my old race crew were available to crew, I’d buy a C&C 
41.  :-)

Cheers and Happy New Year. Off to a stupid party...
Dave

1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Chesapeake Bay

On Dec 31, 2013, at 7:52 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

> > … moving up to a J/42 for other reasons. <
>  
> Dave,
>  
> There are two J/42s in racer cruiser mode moored close to Calypso at 
> Shilshole in Seattle.  One of them belongs to a friend and C/R class 
> competitor.  We have C/R raced against each other for many years.  The J/42 
> owes my old 43 about 12 seconds a mile and is clearly faster in light air.  
> It takes TWS at 10+ for Calypso to gain especially on a reach or beat.
>  
> Both J/42s are used extensively by couples in the retirement age/mode for 
> cruising around the PNW.  If your plan is the cruise or C/R race short-handed 
> I expect the J/42 would be almost as good as a C&C.
>  
> Happy New Year,
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1970 C&C 43
> Seattle
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
> Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 4:34 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Scouting report on old C&C 38s
>  
> Jim,
>  
> I’m going to jump in and echo what others are saying: don’t get overly 
> concerned about the downwind characteristics of the older IOR influenced 
> hulls like C&C 38.
>  
> If you are planning on pressing on as much canvass as possible while going 
> downwind then you may have your hands full. But that’s racing. Ease off a 
> bit. I’ve raced on IOR One-tons and there is a vast difference between that 
> “IOR” and the “IOR shape" of the earlier C&C’s. For that matter I would 
> suggest that one of loveliest but biggest handfuls of a boat downwind was the 
> Ted Hood designed Gulfstar Custom 40. I loved that boat and almost bought one 
> but, Lord, downwind with the ‘chute up there wasn’t a wheel big enough with 
> enough purchase to keep it under control. “Broaches R Us.” The C&C 38 is not 
> even in that category or the old racing IOR boats for that matter.
>  
> Personally, I think that our C&C 37 is the follow-on to the C&C 38 (yes, I 
> know  smaller but the specs put it at 37’ 9”...). A bit less radical in hull 
> design and a bit better fins and rudder shape but essentially the same 
> animal. We love our 37 although we are starting to think about moving up to a 
> J/42 for other reasons. To echo what Martin’s wife says about the 36, my wife 
> loves the 37 because it is the perfect blend of speed, comfort, sea-keeping, 
> dryness and most importantly the ability to handle the loads and be able to 
> manage around the docks by the two of us.
>  
> The only bad thing I can say about the 38 is that the cockpit is bit pinched. 
> So is ours. Eh...
>  
> If you spring for it you won’t be unhappy. Really good looking and nice boat. 
> What Martins says, it will do distance sailing comfortably.
>  
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Chesapeake Bay
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Stus-List Move to J/42 versus new C&C's of similar size and function

[Dave Godwin]

I want to reply to Colin and to Ken Heaton for good suggestions and a very nice 
offer. 

As far as looking at the later (not Jackett designed and built models) C&C’s, 
those are very attractive suggestions but I think that both my wife and I are 
headed in a different direction.

We've discovered over the years that with just the two of us, dragging a big 
140% jib across the deck isn’t our idea of pleasant anymore. And the way that 
we sail is pretty much me soloing with my wife happily knitting in the cockpit 
under the dodger. She assists with the tacking, line handling and is very good 
about getting me a cold beer if needed. The allure of the J/42 for both of us 
is that I can have my “dance space” in the aft end of the cockpit and still 
control the jib and more importantly, the main. I’m not fond of reaching up 
under the dodger to adjust the main sheet and traveler sheets when needed. And 
I tend to trim sails constantly. 

So one of the “selling” points for us of the J/42 is the large main and smaller 
(sort of…) jib size. We’ve swallowed that point hook, line and sinker. Whether 
it’s true is another matter but it seems logical to us. And a carbon fiber 
mast! Gotta have one of those. ;-)

Another reason that I’m probably not looking at another C&C is going forward 
I’d like to avoid boats with liners. I’m not saying that liners are bad or 
cheap but I’m just getting back to a complete refit and painting (halted for 
the last 4 years…) of “Ronin” and having the liner to deal with has been a bit 
of a PITA. It made re-wring the boat a much bigger task for a job that is 
time-consuming in any case. Modifications involving cabinetry and fiberglassing 
become somewhat more involved. Access is an issue.

Which brings me to the Colin’s offer to meet the owners of Ceol Mor. I would 
love to but that may have to wait  Interestingly, I’d linked to their blog and 
had been following it. Local Annapolis sailers! Anyway, all our talk about 
moving to a J/42 is a 3-year plan and is completely off the table until I get 
the refit of “Ronin” done. That’s looking like at least another year. And 
honestly, when I’m done we plan on sailing the hell out her, ‘cause, well, she 
is a great boat!

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay


On Jan 2, 2014, at 12:37 PM, Colin Kilgour  wrote:

> Some cruising friends of mine just completed a circumnavigation in a J/42 - 
> with husband, wife and 2 kids aboard.
> 
> Check out their blog to get a sense of how Ceol Mor handled it.  And if you 
> want, I can put you in touch with them directly if you want to really pick 
> their brain on the boat.  They are super nice folks and would know a heluva 
> lot more about the J/42 than any of us do.
> 
> http://www.svceolmor.com/SVCeolMor/Welcome.html
> 
> Cheers,
> Colin
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Move to J/42 versus new C&C's of similar size and function

[Dave Godwin]

John,

Thanks for the note and I really appreciate any and all suggestions. As a 
matter of fact, I was re-visiting the C&C 121 listings just last night to make 
sure that I wasn’t heading off at high speed on the wrong tack. And I am in 
complete agreement with your take on its sailing and cruising envelope. If I 
were going to spend all my time on the Chesapeake Bay with a couple of short 
off-shore dashes I’d include it at the top my list. But I’m looking for 
extended cruising with a modicum of carrying capacity. Another issue is 
sea-kindliness upwind in heavy’ish weather.

I crewed on my buddy's 115 that he bought in Long Island a couple of years ago 
and delivered back to Annapolis. I loved the boat. We made the absolute fastest 
not-stop run from Kings Point, NY to Annapolis that I have ever done. I don’t 
remember the numbers but is was crazy fast. Fortunately almost all of it was 
beam-reaching and off-wind work. But my same friend decided to take it to Block 
Island for RC duty the year after. That proved to be brutal. Upwind in heavy 
weather. I’m afraid that it is now for sale and he is looking at big Sabres, 
Gran Soleils and the like. And my buddy has been racing off-shore around the 
world for 35+ years and is incredibly tough so it’s a decision that he didn’t 
make lightly.

Also, everyone on the boat was commenting on the quality of glass work, fit and 
finish compared to J Boat offerings

So, yes, if it were spending all or most of our time in the Bay, I would put it 
on the list.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay


On Jan 2, 2014, at 4:49 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:

> For what it's worth, when we bought our 121 this year, it came down to a 
> newer C&C vs. several J's.  For how we sail now - weekends, short cruises, 
> etc the C&C was the right choice.  I'm not sure if it would be my choice for 
> extended cruising (which I have done).  If you know and like the J, I suspect 
> your decision is already made.  You could do far worse.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Jan 2, 2014, at 1:31 PM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> 
>> I want to reply to Colin and to Ken Heaton for good suggestions and a very 
>> nice offer. 
>> 
>> As far as looking at the later (not Jackett designed and built models) 
>> C&C’s, those are very attractive suggestions but I think that both my wife 
>> and I are headed in a different direction.
>> 
>> We've discovered over the years that with just the two of us, dragging a big 
>> 140% jib across the deck isn’t our idea of pleasant anymore. And the way 
>> that we sail is pretty much me soloing with my wife happily knitting in the 
>> cockpit under the dodger. She assists with the tacking, line handling and is 
>> very good about getting me a cold beer if needed. The allure of the J/42 for 
>> both of us is that I can have my “dance space” in the aft end of the cockpit 
>> and still control the jib and more importantly, the main. I’m not fond of 
>> reaching up under the dodger to adjust the main sheet and traveler sheets 
>> when needed. And I tend to trim sails constantly. 
>> 
>> So one of the “selling” points for us of the J/42 is the large main and 
>> smaller (sort of…) jib size. We’ve swallowed that point hook, line and 
>> sinker. Whether it’s true is another matter but it seems logical to us. And 
>> a carbon fiber mast! Gotta have one of those. ;-)
>> 
>> Another reason that I’m probably not looking at another C&C is going forward 
>> I’d like to avoid boats with liners. I’m not saying that liners are bad or 
>> cheap but I’m just getting back to a complete refit and painting (halted for 
>> the last 4 years…) of “Ronin” and having the liner to deal with has been a 
>> bit of a PITA. It made re-wring the boat a much bigger task for a job that 
>> is time-consuming in any case. Modifications involving cabinetry and 
>> fiberglassing become somewhat more involved. Access is an issue.
>> 
>> Which brings me to the Colin’s offer to meet the owners of Ceol Mor. I would 
>> love to but that may have to wait  Interestingly, I’d linked to their blog 
>> and had been following it. Local Annapolis sailers! Anyway, all our talk 
>> about moving to a J/42 is a 3-year plan and is completely off the table 
>> until I get the refit of “Ronin” done. That’s looking like at least another 
>> year. And honestly, when I’m done we plan on sailing the hell out her, 
>> ‘cause, well, she is a great boat!
>> 
>> 
>> Dave
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeak
>> 
>> 
>> On Jan 2, 2014, at 12:37 PM, Colin Kilgour  wrote:
>> 
>>> Some cruising friends of mine just

Re: Stus-List Move to J/42 versus new C&C's of similar size and function

[Dave Godwin]

Agreed on the Sabres. I’ve spent time on one of them as well. Reasonably nice 
boats but not my cup of tea either. They are not on my list.

I did a delivery from Annapolis to the BVI’s leaving Annapolis just after 
Thanksgiving a few years ago, out to South of Bermuda and then a turn South. 
Yep, the 121 would be a tad bit uncomfortable.

Anyway, life is too short for slow boats! That’s my philosophy too.  ;-)

Cheers,

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

On Jan 2, 2014, at 6:12 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:

> You pretty much hit it on the head - it's more about cargo capacity than 
> anything else.  You just can't imagine how much STUFF you take with you - and 
> that's before you start loading cases of wine, cases of soda, cases of water, 
> etc, etc, etc.  Don't get hung up on tankage or battery capacity - spend your 
> time figuring out how to efficiently put stuff back into them.
> 
> Funny comment re the Sabre - we sold one to move to the 121.  One of the few 
> boats I've owned and don't miss.  Yes, the woodwork was in a different world 
> than the Tartan C&C.
> 
> The 121 is a good boat, possibly a great boat.  Who knows, after sailing her 
> for a few more years maybe I will take her on an extended cruise but it's 
> really not what that girl was built to do.  She would be a dream zipping 
> around the BVI.  Sailing to Bermuda in November - not so much.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Jan 2, 2014, at 5:50 PM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> 
>> John,
>> 
>> Thanks for the note and I really appreciate any and all suggestions. As a 
>> matter of fact, I was re-visiting the C&C 121 listings just last night to 
>> make sure that I wasn’t heading off at high speed on the wrong tack. And I 
>> am in complete agreement with your take on its sailing and cruising 
>> envelope. If I were going to spend all my time on the Chesapeake Bay with a 
>> couple of short off-shore dashes I’d include it at the top my list. But I’m 
>> looking for extended cruising with a modicum of carrying capacity. Another 
>> issue is sea-kindliness upwind in heavy’ish weather.
>> 
>> I crewed on my buddy's 115 that he bought in Long Island a couple of years 
>> ago and delivered back to Annapolis. I loved the boat. We made the absolute 
>> fastest not-stop run from Kings Point, NY to Annapolis that I have ever 
>> done. I don’t remember the numbers but is was crazy fast. Fortunately almost 
>> all of it was beam-reaching and off-wind work. But my same friend decided to 
>> take it to Block Island for RC duty the year after. That proved to be 
>> brutal. Upwind in heavy weather. I’m afraid that it is now for sale and he 
>> is looking at big Sabres, Gran Soleils and the like. And my buddy has been 
>> racing off-shore around the world for 35+ years and is incredibly tough so 
>> it’s a decision that he didn’t make lightly.
>> 
>> Also, everyone on the boat was commenting on the quality of glass work, fit 
>> and finish compared to J Boat offerings
>> 
>> So, yes, if it were spending all or most of our time in the Bay, I would put 
>> it on the list.
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> 
>> 
>> On Jan 2, 2014, at 4:49 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:
>> 
>>> For what it's worth, when we bought our 121 this year, it came down to a 
>>> newer C&C vs. several J's.  For how we sail now - weekends, short cruises, 
>>> etc the C&C was the right choice.  I'm not sure if it would be my choice 
>>> for extended cruising (which I have done).  If you know and like the J, I 
>>> suspect your decision is already made.  You could do far worse.
>>> 
>>> John
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>> On Jan 2, 2014, at 1:31 PM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I want to reply to Colin and to Ken Heaton for good suggestions and a very 
>>>> nice offer. 
>>>> 
>>>> As far as looking at the later (not Jackett designed and built models) 
>>>> C&C’s, those are very attractive suggestions but I think that both my wife 
>>>> and I are headed in a different direction.
>>>> 
>>>> We've discovered over the years that with just the two of us, dragging a 
>>>> big 140% jib across the deck isn’t our idea of pleasant anymore. And the 
>>>> way that we sail is pretty much me soloing with my wife happily knitting 
>>>> in the cockpit under the dodger. She assists with the tacking, line 
>>>> hand

Re: Stus-List Relatively new C&C owner

[Dave Godwin]

Welcome Mac! Send pictures on the new main sheet setup. I'd be interested in 
seeing that.

Cheers,

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 2, 2014, at 21:13, "Martin \"Mac\" McKenzie"  
wrote:

> Hello All,
> 
> I have a 1983 C&C 37 that I purchased 2 years ago from RCR yachts in Buffalo. 
> It was named IMPACT and prior to that it was named FREEDOM SONG. I have named 
> it WORTHY PEARL. I sail it on Lake Ontario out of Etobicoke Yacht Club. Prior 
> to this boat I had a Niagara 26 WAVE WALKER that I sailed for 31 years. My 
> son has taken ownership of it now.
> 
> I am still getting used to her but I think the boat sails extremely well. I 
> have made a number of changes to the running rigging, having everything 
> coming back to the cockpit. I sail mainly short handed and do a lot of single 
> handed racing. My goal this year is to do the Lake Ontario 300 single handed 
> with spinnaker.
> 
> The biggest change I am making over the winter is moving the traveler from 
> the cabin top to the cockpit. I found that the mid boom sheeting could not 
> trim the main properly. With a loose footed main, the boom would bend and not 
> tighten the leach. I will let you all know if it works. I will keep the 
> original traveler on the cabin top just in case.
>  
> Mac McKenzie
> 1983 C&C 37 Worthy Pearl
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
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Re: Stus-List booms on 37

[Dave Godwin]

Pete,

I replaced my boom with a custom built one years ago. I wish I had saved my old 
boom as a replacement for someone who needed it. That said, it did not need 
replacement due to breakage or bending so that should be good news for most 
owners.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

On Jan 4, 2014, at 10:39 AM, Pete Shelquist  wrote:

> Steve, Dave, Mac and other 37 owners:
>  
> FYI - There is another 37 in my area in which the boom broke last summer.  
> I’m told it happened right at the mainsheet attachment and in very moderate 
> conditions.  Feedback from the shop that made the repair and who spoke with a 
> number of mfctrs re: replacement, the booms of this generation/configuration 
> have a tendency to weaken and break due to any combination of wall thickness, 
> fatigue, point loading, etc.   If this is truly a chronic issue or a one-time 
> thing is TBD.
>  
> For our boat, in the 10 yrs we owned her, I’ve raced two Trans-Superior (300+ 
> miles) and numerous 60-100 milers, both solo and crewed.  I haven’t seen the 
> serious bending that Mac described, and don’t have a problem getting decent 
> shape on the leach of the main (and assume it’s not an issue with Mac’s 
> sail).  However, I’m going to keep monitoring and am considering proactive 
> strengthening of the boom.  
>  
> Pete
> 1984 37
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve 
> Sharkey
> Sent: Friday, January 03, 2014 5:13 AM
> To: Martin "Mac" McKenzie; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Relatively new C&C owner
>  
> Mac,
>  
> I also have a 1983 C&C 37 and do a lot of single-handed sailing including 
> distances races.  I’d be interested to see pictures or learn more about 
> modifications that you’ve made.  What type of autohelm do you have?
>  
> Steve Sharkey
> Impromptu
>  
> From: Martin "Mac" McKenzie
> Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 9:13 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Relatively new C&C owner
>  
> Hello All,
>  
> I have a 1983 C&C 37 that I purchased 2 years ago from RCR yachts in Buffalo. 
> It was named IMPACT and prior to that it was named FREEDOM SONG. I have named 
> it WORTHY PEARL. I sail it on Lake Ontario out of Etobicoke Yacht Club. Prior 
> to this boat I had a Niagara 26 WAVE WALKER that I sailed for 31 years. My 
> son has taken ownership of it now.
>  
> I am still getting used to her but I think the boat sails extremely well. I 
> have made a number of changes to the running rigging, having everything 
> coming back to the cockpit. I sail mainly short handed and do a lot of single 
> handed racing. My goal this year is to do the Lake Ontario 300 single handed 
> with spinnaker.
>  
> The biggest change I am making over the winter is moving the traveler from 
> the cabin top to the cockpit. I found that the mid boom sheeting could not 
> trim the main properly. With a loose footed main, the boom would bend and not 
> tighten the leach. I will let you all know if it works. I will keep the 
> original traveler on the cabin top just in case.
>  
> Mac McKenzie
> 1983 C&C 37 Worthy Pearl
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Near-shore tide what to expect. "Need some Guidance"

[Dave Godwin]

Curtis, are you planning on doing this in the near future? If so, are you 
prepared for some rather cold hours at sea?

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

On Jan 6, 2014, at 1:22 PM, Curtis  wrote:

> So I'm as some of you know in the process of moving to the next step in my 
> training. I'm in the planing stages of my first over-night near shore 
> passage. I will leave early am: 4:00 with a full moon to help and head out to 
> the "R 4" F1 R4s @ 32-05,901"N  080-35,099W this is the channel into Port 
> Royal sound Beaufort SC.
> I intend to sail out with the tide its a 19 mile ride I figure 5.5 knots of 
> speed? That will put me there at Day break or just after 3.45 hrs. 
> Then run straight east for 5nm to 32-029'899N  080-29'988 W That will take a 
> nother 90 min,
> Here, I will turn south to 32-03,997W 080-29'167W 1.92 miles = 34min 
> Here i will turn back west to 32-03'984W 080-34'965w this 4.92 leg take .89 
> min 
> Then I will turn North to will bring me the 4.92 nm back to to the "R 4" F1 
> R4s @ 32-05,901"N  080-35,099W the bell marker at the mouth of the channel. 
> Then my hope will be to take the the Tide back in.
> So here is the question." If I do this near shore how much will the tide 
> effect my timing in the course: I plugged in the 5.5 based off motor speed.
> All together time from the dock and back to the dock. 10.956 hours to cover 
> 60.26nm
> How much time will the tide cost me off shore? I know a bought the tide in 
> and out of the river. Just need help with the offshore expectation?
> Thanks again. let me know if you need more information.
> LT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.

[Dave Godwin]

So, it’s winter and I’m getting back to refitting (restoration is probably a 
better word now after letting her go so long) Ronin and am working on 
shed/inside type jobs. I bought a Lewmar Pro-Series 1000 horizontal windlass. 
Right now I’ve taken a bunch of measurements and I am doing some rough drawings 
for mounting it inside the anchor locker, on a shelf bonded to the bulkhead and 
just under the anchor locker cover. Right off the bat it seems doable. Chain 
angle from the bow-roller is within tolerances; the chain/rode runs true when 
the windlass is offset to starboard and there is just enough chain-fall (~21”) 
to meet the manufacturer’s requirements.

So, has anyone with a same or similar sized C&C done something like this? 
Thoughts, pictures, links or just general “Be afraid!” comments?

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake  Bay
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Re: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.

[Dave Godwin]

Pierre, thanks for that. If you do have a picture handy I would love to give it 
a look.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

On Jan 6, 2014, at 3:55 PM, Pierre Tremblay  wrote:

> This is exactly what the PO did on my C&C 38-3. I will look if I have picture 
> of the installation.
> 
> Pierre Tremblay
> Avalanche, #54988
> C&C 38-3, WK
> De : Dave Godwin 
> À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Envoyé le : lundi 6 janvier 2014 15h02
> Objet : Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.
> 
> So, it’s winter and I’m getting back to refitting (restoration is probably a 
> better word now after letting her go so long) Ronin and am working on 
> shed/inside type jobs. I bought a Lewmar Pro-Series 1000 horizontal windlass. 
> Right now I’ve taken a bunch of measurements and I am doing some rough 
> drawings for mounting it inside the anchor locker, on a shelf bonded to the 
> bulkhead and just under the anchor locker cover. Right off the bat it seems 
> doable. Chain angle from the bow-roller is within tolerances; the chain/rode 
> runs true when the windlass is offset to starboard and there is just enough 
> chain-fall (~21”) to meet the manufacturer’s requirements.
> 
> So, has anyone with a same or similar sized C&C done something like this? 
> Thoughts, pictures, links or just general “Be afraid!” comments?
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake  Bay
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.

[Dave Godwin]

Graham,

Like Pierre, if you could send pictures that would be really helpful. I’m 
interested in the attachment to the bulkhead in particular.

Yes, I plan on transferring the drawings to a plywood mockup prior to 
fabricating the entire setup. I don’t know what others have done but I’m 
planning on using sheet 3/8” FRP from McMaster-Carr when things get finalized. 

Like you, I plan on installing a strip of Starboard also. It looks pretty clear 
that rubbing/abrasion will occur.

Since we’re on this thread, I’m wondering what members’ experience with using 
the C&C cast stem fitting/bow-roller has been. Do they work well?

Cheers and thanks,

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

On Jan 6, 2014, at 4:21 PM, Graham Collins  wrote:

> I mounted mine like that, I've got a Lewmar V2.  It works well.  You may want 
> to mock it up in cheap plywood first, I had to cant my windlass up to best 
> match up with the bow roller, and it let me get it raised as far as possible 
> without hitting the locker lid.
> 
> The one thing you might consider is adding something sacrificial where the 
> chain will drag.  Your geometry may be better, on mine the chain is clear of 
> the deck when hauling the anchor, but if it goes at all slack when letting it 
> out the chain will scuff deck just forward of the anchor locker.  I put down 
> a thin piece of starboard material there to avoid the problem.
> 
> Let me know if you would like some pics.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> 
> On 2014-01-06 4:02 PM, Dave Godwin wrote:
>> So, it’s winter and I’m getting back to refitting (restoration is probably a 
>> better word now after letting her go so long) Ronin and am working on 
>> shed/inside type jobs. I bought a Lewmar Pro-Series 1000 horizontal 
>> windlass. Right now I’ve taken a bunch of measurements and I am doing some 
>> rough drawings for mounting it inside the anchor locker, on a shelf bonded 
>> to the bulkhead and just under the anchor locker cover. Right off the bat it 
>> seems doable. Chain angle from the bow-roller is within tolerances; the 
>> chain/rode runs true when the windlass is offset to starboard and there is 
>> just enough chain-fall (~21”) to meet the manufacturer’s requirements.
>> 
>> So, has anyone with a same or similar sized C&C done something like this? 
>> Thoughts, pictures, links or just general “Be afraid!” comments?
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Dave
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake  Bay
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.

[Dave Godwin]

I want to thank everyone who responded with really good ideas, photos and 
information. On one note, I especially like that Mike (S/V Persuasion) has an 
Admiral. I have a Commodore. Same, same, we always salute.

Some listers responded off-list which was very nice. There seems to be two 
different styles of mounting the windlass, on a ledge and on a fabricated 
mount. The both seem to have their benefits. To me, the ledge transmits the 
loads across the bulkhead and apparently to the hull. I hadn’t thought about 
the fact that the bulkhead may be a bit weak which was brought up by one 
responder. With the fabricated mount examples, the loads were still transmitted 
across to the hull but with an advantage of leaving a bit more access to the 
locker itself. My brother has a couple of welders and can fabricate the Space 
Shuttle. Although I’m still leaning towards a platform of FRP, I may talk to 
him.

I did note that there was one owner who mounted a stainless steel bow roller 
over his stemhead and that others simply used the C&C bow roller in their stem 
heads. Fortunately I have the option of doing both, so long as the factory 
roller fits the anchor. If not, a buddy of mine gave me the removable one off 
of his Beneteau 40.7 because he didn’t need it anymore. Seems the boat’s 
turning into a fish reef 25 miles off Shinnecock Inlet…  :-0

Also, note that I have added a link to my signature. It’s to Dropbox and is my 
first attempt at an album. I’m not wild about their software but let me know if 
it doesn’t work. As I start back to work on Ronin I will post pictures of the 
progress. I know I like to look at other folks work.

Cheers,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Jan 7, 2014, at 7:58 AM, Pierre Tremblay  wrote:

> Could not find any picture of it.
> 
> My install looks like Jim's one. I also has a vertical Lofrans 1000 (very low 
> profile). The shelf is tab to the hull sides, and two legs goes down to the 
> locker bottom. Everything is at least an inch thick covered and welded to the 
> hull and bulkhead with fiberglass & epoxy. I cannot see the core, but almost 
> sure it is marine plywood. Must have been a pita to do the fiberglass work. 
> It looks almost as an original factory job.
> 
> Cannot comment on the performance of it, because we did not anchored yet 
> (shame on me) in the 2 years we have her. Only took the chain out to clean 
> the locker last summer. Lots of mooring balls and reciprocal club around here.
> 
> Pierre Tremblay
> Avalanche, hull #76
> C&C 38-3, WK
> De : Jim Watts 
> À : 1 CnC List  
> Envoyé le : lundi 6 janvier 2014 23h49
> Objet : Re: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.
> 
> Here's mine...a couple of changes ago. Knees glassed into hull just above 
> balsa line, windlass shelf bolted onto knees. I later added a Starboard 
> clatter pad in front of the anchor locker. 
> 
> http://members.shaw.ca/parmesanshift/images/IMG_0953.jpg
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin fans

[Dave Godwin]

Andy,

Poor man’s air-conditioning: Hella Turbo Fans Quiet, two-speed, nice looking 
and efficient. I have four of them on my boat.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit


On Jan 8, 2014, at 12:56 PM, Andrew Burton  wrote:


> One of my winter projects is to install a few cabin fans to keep cool on 
> those warm summer days and circulate air on those cool ones.
> Has anyone recommendations? I'm interested in quiet and economy of battery 
> draw.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List folding prop for C&C 40 - now: P dimension

[Dave Godwin]

I would second that recommendation. First thing I did on "Ronin" when I got a 
new boom and mainsail was to move the boom up 6 inches. I was never going to 
race her and tired of worrying about my crew's noggins...

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 15, 2014, at 9:47 AM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
> 
> George,
>  
> I strongly suggest measuring the dimensions for the sail on the boat. Don’t 
> trust the published values. They are only good for getting quotes from the 
> sailmakers.
>  
> I got new sails last fall and it turned out that only the boom length (E) was 
> correct. My old sail’s P was too short, but the actual P (measured at the 
> mast was shorter than the published by at least 6”). I suspect that my boom 
> might have been moved up by one of the POs (though no marks on the mast).
>  
> Marek (in Ottawa)
> _
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2014 17:04:28 -0500
> From: "George Cone" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List folding prop for C&C 40
> Message-ID: <005001cf1174$98864a90$c992dfb0$@alpinesy.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> The HIN- is ZCC40129M81H, so I assume that means #129, the present prop is a
> 2 blade fixed, I also have a question for you on main sail dimensions, is
> there only one P=46.5 or is it possible to be longer, I am considering a new
> main as it looks like the main is an original. I am also led to believe (and
> I checked) that the draft is 8.25' instead of 7'-more confusion, (I asked
> Bob about it at Block Island and he did not know about that deep an option.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> George  
> 
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Re: Stus-List Radar Cable Connector & other advice

[Dave Godwin]

Cut’n Paste version because original message was so large it went into 
moderation...

> If it weren’t so financially depressing I’d exchange my detailed refit 
> spreadsheet for yours. Like you said, a big but fun project. I’m working on 
> the design of a windlass mount for my anchor today as a matter of fact. FWIW, 
> I paid ~$820.00 in 2011 for my Lewmar Pro-Series 1000 windlass. Certainly not 
> as large/heavy duty as yours but might provide some idea of costs. 
> 
> I can’t help with the cabling issue but my general rule is to buy new 
> electronics. I know that’s easily said when the money isn’t mine but I’ve 
> found with electronics that it’s always "bigger, better and faster” for the 
> same price as previous years and models.
> 
> I have a question: You have a saildrive. I don’t think that was factory in 
> 1978. Did you convert your propulsion system from a standard shaft/strut to 
> the sail drive? I’d be very curious as to how that has worked out and what is 
> involved if that is the case.
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
> On Jan 21, 2014, at 10:44 AM, Maturo, John  wrote:
> 
>> I have a 1978 Baltic 39/C&C (Rob Ball) and I need some help locating cable 
>> connectors for my Furuno radar model 821/841.  I want to put a quick 
>> disconnect were the cable comes out of the mast.  I stupidly cut the cable 
>> to get the radar off of the mast which was laying on horses in the yard last 
>> year during Sandy.  Too much action, not enough thinking.  I soldered the 
>> cable ends together this spring, but probably did not get the coax right 
>> with its very fine stranded wire core and so no picture.
>> 
>> Any advice on locating connectors or suggestions like, just replace the 
>> whole cable, or replace the whole radar would be welcome.  I have a nice set 
>> of 10 year old B&G instruments tied into a Navman GPS which all works fine, 
>> but the resolution of the  display on the Navman is fairly coarse by current 
>> standards.  Do you think I should be putting  together a more modern system 
>> with radar, instruments, and GPS all tied together.  Which of probably means 
>> all new instruments.
>> 
>> I also have a Muir 24 volt VFF 1050/2200 vertical windlass with a seized 
>> motor due to salt corrosion from a somewhat careless installation by the PO. 
>>  I have checked and the cost of a new motor is about $1,000.  I would 
>> appreciate any advice on this aspect.  I currently have 3/8 BBB chain, 80 ft 
>> with another 200 ft of 1/2 triple strand.
>> 
>> I am currently coastal cruising while I do a refit of the boat in 
>> preparation for blue water cruising.  This year new rod and teak.  Last year 
>> I replaced the running rigging, refrigeration, and stripped and barrier 
>> coated the bottom. The motor, Yanmar 3YM30 with sail drive is 10 years old 
>> with about 800 hours on it.  During the season I am going to replace the 
>> holding tank and head plumbing.  The sails will come last as what I have 
>> works fine for the coastal cruising we are doing now. 
>> 
>> This is a big, but fun project.  I just pulled out interior panels to get at 
>> the deck fittings in preparation for the new teak.  I am pulling the chain 
>> plates to have them surveyed.  The good part of this is that the more I dig 
>> the more confidence I have in the boat because the underlying structure is 
>> in such good shape and stoutly built.
>> 
>> I have a spreadsheet with all of the work being done and costs and also 
>> started a power point slide show.  I would be happy to share this as 
>> requested via my regular email.
>> 
>> John Maturo
>> Ashe, Baltic 39
>> john.mat...@yale.edu
>> 

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Re: Stus-List structural question

[Dave Godwin]

Okay, what the hell, let’s make it four. It’s been so long since I could close 
the door on my 37 that the door permanently resides overhead in the trusses in 
my shed.

I was warned years ago by a fairly well known racer in Annapolis who raced a 
C&C 37 when they first came out that the decks were bendy.

Frankly, the only time I worry about it is when thinking about how I’m going to 
explain it to a potential buyer…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Jan 23, 2014, at 11:21 AM, Steve Sharkey  wrote:

> I have the same issue.  I've never been able to close my V berth door and the 
> door to my head gets tight if I leave my backstay cranked down for a 
> significant period.
> 
> Steve
> From: William Hall
> Sent: ‎1/‎23/‎2014 10:57 AM
> To: cnc-list
> Subject: Re: Stus-List structural question
> 
> I haven't investigated what's going on as much as you have, but my v-berth 
> door won't close either, clearly things have deformed a bit.
> Bill
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 23, 2014 at 10:32 AM, Pete Shelquist  
> wrote:
> I'm not sure how many other designs are like this, but the 37 doesn't have a
> continuous bulk head forward by the stays.  Strbd is by the hanging locker
> and it T's about midway into the wall for the head on the port side.
> 
> I'm concerned about the flexing in the hull.  Long story, but the symptom is
> apparent when I loosen the rig over the winter and tune it each spring.  In
> the winter I can close the door to the v berth, but once the rig is
> tightened up the frame is askew and the door won't close. We're talking a
> 1/8 -1/4".  I'm cautious to not over tighten the rig and squeeze too much,
> but there is considerable tension to get it set up correctly.  I did check
> to review that all the tabbing was in place and secure.  I thought about
> just removing the door :)
> 
> Is this an issue for anyone else and has anyone tackled the project to
> reinforce the walls in this area?   Or is it just one of those things and I
> shouldn't worry about it unless there's significant change?  Other
> thoughts/suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> William D. Hall, Ph.D.
> 203 653 2886 (o)
> 617 620 9078 (c)
> wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List structural question

[Dave Godwin]

Edd,

When I first noticed the problem I thought that I could do that but after 
measuring the amount that the frame was out of shape compared to the door it 
began to look like major surgery so I decided against it. Of course that was 
years ago and I had high hopes of sorting out the problem. I never did.

The boat will be coming out of the water for the summer and the mast will be 
pulled. I’ll be interested to see if the hull and deck work back to shape over 
this period of time.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Jan 23, 2014, at 11:44 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> Can’t you just shave the door down a little, refinish and reattach the 
> hardware? 
> 
> Had this problem on the Enterprise-A (C&C34) 
> 
>   
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 23, 2014, at 8:34 AM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> 
> Okay, what the hell, let’s make it four. It’s been so long since I could 
> close the door on my 37 that the door permanently resides overhead in the 
> trusses in my shed.
> 
> I was warned years ago by a fairly well known racer in Annapolis who raced a 
> C&C 37 when they first came out that the decks were bendy.
> 
> Frankly, the only time I worry about it is when thinking about how I’m going 
> to explain it to a potential buyer…
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
> On Jan 23, 2014, at 11:21 AM, Steve Sharkey  wrote:
> 
>> I have the same issue.  I've never been able to close my V berth door and 
>> the door to my head gets tight if I leave my backstay cranked down for a 
>> significant period.
>> 
>> Steve
>> From: William Hall
>> Sent: ‎1/‎23/‎2014 10:57 AM
>> To: cnc-list
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List structural question
>> 
>> I haven't investigated what's going on as much as you have, but my v-berth 
>> door won't close either, clearly things have deformed a bit.
>> Bill
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Jan 23, 2014 at 10:32 AM, Pete Shelquist 
>>  wrote:
>> I'm not sure how many other designs are like this, but the 37 doesn't have a
>> continuous bulk head forward by the stays.  Strbd is by the hanging locker
>> and it T's about midway into the wall for the head on the port side.
>> 
>> I'm concerned about the flexing in the hull.  Long story, but the symptom is
>> apparent when I loosen the rig over the winter and tune it each spring.  In
>> the winter I can close the door to the v berth, but once the rig is
>> tightened up the frame is askew and the door won't close. We're talking a
>> 1/8 -1/4".  I'm cautious to not over tighten the rig and squeeze too much,
>> but there is considerable tension to get it set up correctly.  I did check
>> to review that all the tabbing was in place and secure.  I thought about
>> just removing the door :)
>> 
>> Is this an issue for anyone else and has anyone tackled the project to
>> reinforce the walls in this area?   Or is it just one of those things and I
>> shouldn't worry about it unless there's significant change?  Other
>> thoughts/suggestions?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> William D. Hall, Ph.D.
>> 203 653 2886 (o)
>> 617 620 9078 (c)
>> wh...@alum.mit.edu
>> ___
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List structural question

[Dave Godwin]

Rick,

Sounds very similar to our boats. Here’s a port side view of the chain plate. 
For the other 37 listers, my head door has never had a problem.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Jan 23, 2014, at 11:42 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:

> I have had a similar problem in the past with my 38 mk1. Don't know if the
> structure is the same, but it sounds similar. The fiddle behind the port
> settee on my boat joins the bulkhead that is the aft wall of the head, with
> the shrouds about 2 feet aft of the bulkhead. The fiddle to starboard joins
> the bulkhead that forms the aft side of the hanging locker.
> 
> My shrouds are attached to chainplates that come through the deck and behind
> the settees. The lower end of the chainplates are attached to substantial
> boxes that appear to be made of double layers of 1/2 plywood that are
> glassed to the inside of the hull.
> 
> My problems with the door to the head binding have been when the boat is on
> the hard. In one case, when the boat was out of the water for several months
> for a refit, the backstau was left under considerable tension, and that
> seemed to "banana" the hull and cause the door to bind. The second time I
> noticed the problem, the jackstands near the bow and stern wer cranked on
> tight and took weight off the keel, causing the "banana" effect. 
> 
> I've not had a problem with the head door or the v-berth door binding other
> than these.
> 
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete
> Shelquist
> Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2014 10:32 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List structural question
> 
> I'm not sure how many other designs are like this, but the 37 doesn't have a
> continuous bulk head forward by the stays.  Strbd is by the hanging locker
> and it T's about midway into the wall for the head on the port side.
> 
> I'm concerned about the flexing in the hull.  Long story, but the symptom is
> apparent when I loosen the rig over the winter and tune it each spring.  In
> the winter I can close the door to the v berth, but once the rig is
> tightened up the frame is askew and the door won't close. We're talking a
> 1/8 -1/4".  I'm cautious to not over tighten the rig and squeeze too much,
> but there is considerable tension to get it set up correctly.  I did check
> to review that all the tabbing was in place and secure.  I thought about
> just removing the door :)
> 
> Is this an issue for anyone else and has anyone tackled the project to
> reinforce the walls in this area?   Or is it just one of those things and I
> shouldn't worry about it unless there's significant change?  Other
> thoughts/suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List when to go cruising

[Dave Godwin]

I’d like to tag onto what Bob has pointed out below because to a large degree I 
am in the same place.

Like Bob, I actually enjoy spending the time and money on the refit of our 
boat. As I and others have said it makes little sense financially but there are 
rewards for me.

I’ve always dreamed of cruising. That got started reading about Robin Graham 
and “Dove” sailing alone (somewhat…) around the world in the 60’s. Of course I 
was 17 so any adventure was something I wanted to do, never mind the logistics. 
Of course it didn’t help that my mother thought is a great idea and encouraged 
me to do something like that in life. I chalk that up to a teenage boy driving 
his mother bat-sh*t crazy…

Anyway, fast forward forty-some years and the desire is still there but it is 
much, much different. I’ve been fortunate enough to have traveled and lived all 
over the world. I’ve spent weeks crossing the Pacific and the Atlantic (ships, 
not sailboats…). I’ve raced sailboats, inshore and offshore every free moment 
I've had since I was 25. I’ve sailed boats to and from the Caribbean and up 
down the East Coast. Sailed down the Baja Peninsula, in the Med, Japan and 
Australia. Even the Great Lakes! Like many others on this list, I have 
vacationed on sailboats in the BVI’s and done a short cruise over to the 
Bahamas.

I guess that I’ve done enough of that type of cruising to know that for me, the 
fun is in the planning, preparation and the "small-bore" traveling. My wife and 
I are in our early sixties, retired and financially secure enough to do any 
type of cruising that may interest us. But I no longer have any desire to sail 
across oceans. I don’t even really care to spend any time in the Caribbean. I 
have found that sitting at anchor for days on end, reading a book and relaxing 
is a bad fit for me. And I am well aware of the fact that much of the time is 
taken up fixing things so it ain’t all cool drinks and soft breezes...

So my plan is, like Bob, finish the refit of our boat, fuel her up and head 
South. Minimal setup and gear. If that step works out then I’ll take the next 
jump over to the Bahamas. If I’m having fun doing that then maybe I’ll stay 
there for a while. If not, back I'll come and figure something else out. And I 
will be as happy as can be. All just part of the voyage. I think that I’ve come 
to understand that I’m caught up in the small things about a trip rather than 
the larger endeavor. I no longer think of a cruise as having to accomplish item 
A in X amount of time. But who knows, I may find that I recover that young 
desire to sail the world. Gonna need a bigger boat! 

So, back to the OP, my feeling is go whenever you can and want to. The voyage 
will fit your desires and circumstances.

Okay, enough rambling. Disclaimer: just my $0.02.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
new: Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Feb 11, 2014, at 5:09 PM, Robert Boyer  wrote:

> This subject is very close to me but in a different way and I probably have a 
> different perspective because of my age.  I am now 66 and in good physical 
> condition.  Last year, I began a 30-year retrofit of my Landfall 38 for 
> cruising to the Bahamas in the fall of 2016--I'll be 69 years old at the time 
> I leave.  I can't predict what my health situation will be like in 2016 or 
> anytime for that matter and I can't worry about it.  I have taken off for 6 
> months 20 years ago and cruised to the Bahamas and back (from Annapolis).  
> So, I have done the short term cruising that some here have talked about--I 
> do strongly recommend this for anyone at any stage in their life.
> 
> As far as pouring a lot of money into your boat and never getting the chance 
> to go anywhere (like someone brought up here), for me, "messing about in 
> boats" is as enjoyable as cruising somewhere--its all part of the journey, 
> viewed from a wider perspective.  If I die from a heart attack just a few 
> months before we are supposed to leave for the Bahamas, I still had lots of 
> fun retrofitting my boat and would find peace with that.  Whether by cancer, 
> a car accident, or whatever, we can all die at any time.  We have to do what 
> we love to do and hope that we can live long enough to do much more of it.  
> Others may not find the pleasure that I do by simply messing around my boat 
> and I can understand their need to cruise somewhere to get this pleasure.  We 
> are all different.
> 
> From the 6-month cruise I did a long time ago, I can assure you that it is 
> not all palm trees and hammocks and beaches.  A lot of cruising is doing 
> simply tasks (like doing laundry) in exotic locations.  Even though the 
> Bahamas are beautiful, I never found a place that I considered "paradise" and 
> wanted to stay the rest of my life.  There are all kinds of compromi

Re: Stus-List Fuel tanks

[Dave Godwin]

Joel,

That's the way that I'm planning on going to increase the fuel capacity on my 
boat.  A friend who sails to and from the Caribbean on his 47' boat uses two 
small ones attached to either side of his stern bulkhead in the aft locker 
area. These are tied to a Y-valve and a transfer pump to feed the main tank. I 
liked the setup

Dave

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 13, 2014, at 13:54, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Sorry, I deleted the prior emails discussing the Moeller tanks.
> 
> Has anyone considered using a flexible tank?
> 
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|2349059|2349066&id=152601
> 
> I know one racer who uses one for a holding tank to save a few pounds.
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Shopping for Depth Sounders and Knot meters

[Dave Godwin]

I did both!  :-)

I glassed over the old B&G exterior holes and made a FRP cover for same holes 
that were made in the interior liner.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Feb 13, 2014, at 4:27 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> All,
> 
>   We did the teak thing, coving up the holes left by some old 
> non-functional B&G instruments. Glassing and color-matching gelcoat seemed 
> like a big job.
> 
>   Call me lazy, but I do like the finished look. And, if I ever want to 
> do something different there, it’s an easy replace. 
> 
>   
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Feb 13, 2014, at 4:18 PM, Chuck S  wrote:
> 
> 1) Many boat owners cover the old holes with a piece of teak or a piece of 
> Starboard and mount the new displays on that.  
> 
> 2) The proper way is to glass the holes closed and cut new holes for the new 
> displays, but you'll need to paint the area or match the gelcoat color.  I 
> did method 1 and have method 2 on my "someday" project list.  FWIW, I chose 
> TackTick instruments to replace my Signet SmartPak system, and love the 
> product
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "Jim Lynch" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 2:33:41 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Shopping for Depth Sounders and Knot meters
> 
> Hey Gang,
> 
> I'm shopping for a new depth sounder and a new knot meter for the old 
> C&C 38 I'm buying. I'm not impressed with my choices, especially if I 
> try to find one that fits in the old instruments panel above the 
> companionway.
> 
> I could go the route of Moor Instruments with their old round instrument 
> style, but worried about the quality. I could pay more and get the 
> Raymarine products though they're rectangular and pricey and seem to 
> have all the same glitches and short lifespans that come with these 
> electronics, particularly depth sounders.
> 
> So I'm wondering if any of you swear by the reliability and/or service 
> of one brand or another, or if you've had good or bad experiences with 
> Raymarine, Moor or other brands like Fiara, Hawkeye or Hummingbird.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jim Lynch
> 38-2 (temporarily unnamed)
> Olympia, WA
> 
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus 
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 30A to 50A adaptors and air conditioners

[Dave Godwin]

Which is why when I saw these during my re-wiring project I didn’t hesitate to 
order them. I replaced all my awkwardly mounted fuses (within seven inches!) 
and didn’t look back. Really, really smart device.

Cheers
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Feb 18, 2014, at 10:58 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

> More than a good idea, this is REQUIRED under ABYC standards, as well as just 
> common sense.  You must have a fuse within seven inches of any connection to 
> the positive side of a battery or DC bus (unless the wiring is protected in a 
> sheath, in which case you can go a bit further).  The fuse must be sized 
> appropriate to the current rating of the wire it’s protecting.  Note that 
> this has nothing to do with the device that the wire is conducting current to 
> (although the wire must be sized appropriate to provide current to that, as 
> well).
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> On Feb 18, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
> 
>> 1. a good idea is to use  fuses directly connected to the battery post (or 
>> very close to). This way, anything you connect “directly” to the battery, is 
>> in fact already protected by a fuse.
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's

[Dave Godwin]

Love my Spinlock PFD. All-day and night-watch comfortable. Barely notice that 
I'm wearing it, no neck chafe, the contours fit my body and loaded with really 
smart features. A bit more spendy at first glance than others but IMO well 
worth it.

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On May 15, 2013, at 12:16 PM, Paul Baker wrote:

> I'm in a similar situation, the Spinlock 5D 170N Hammer is currently winning 
> out.  Hydrostatic, built in harness, leg/crotch straps (required for pretty 
> much all offshore racing now), webbing knife, whistle, strobe light on a 
> pylon, spray hood, and into the deal, many retailers are throwing in a 
> Spinlock tether.
> It's a few bucks more than the Mustang, but add in all the extra gear then 
> it's actually a good deal.
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: "CnClist" 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:04:43 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Auto inflate PFD's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Preparing for an upcoming 100 mile offshore race.  Thinking about adding an 
> auto inflating PFD with harness to supplement our manual PFDs.  There's some 
> new ones out.  Definitely want a hydrostatic (pressure activated) system. 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now the Mustang hydrostatic with harness (MD3184) is top candidate 
> considering price and how infrequently we need it.  Any other 
> recommendations? 
> 
> 
> Dennis C. 
> Touche' 35-1 #83 
> Mandeville, LA 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats

[Dave Godwin]

Good friends of ours have one of the original Back Cove 29's. I helped with the 
commission, brought the boat up the Chesapeake Bay from Virginia Beach to 
Annapolis in strong headwinds and lumpy seas and my impression is of a very 
sturdy, sea-kindly, dry and nicely built craft. Single diesel with a 
bow-thruster keeps things simple and cheap. On the 29 the accommodations are 
fine for short distance cruising and over-nights. For two...

They were down last weekend and are giving some thought to moving up to the 
Back Cove 37.

Cheers,
Dave

On Jul 10, 2013, at 10:23 AM, dwight veinot wrote:

> I will probably have my C&C 35 MKII for a long time yet and I am very 
> satisfied with it for my sailing agenda nowadays.  However I have become less 
> enthusiastic about mainsail work and often cruise under furling genoa alone.  
> As I have aged I have begun to see some benefit in a new experience so the 
> 30-40 foot power boats are attracting my attention.  I really like the Back 
> Cove boats:  
> http://backcoveyachts.com/backcove/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/BC34_Bro.pdf
>  
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
> Sent: July 9, 2013 1:27 PM
> To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats
>  
> Finally got around to reading this article from an earlier post.  That's an 
> interesting list.  I certainly agree with many of the choices and question a 
> few.  I also would make a few "substitutions".
>  
> Although the Alberg 30 is listed, I would have chosen the Alberg 35 instead.  
> The Morgan O/I 40, Gulfstar 50, Halberg Rassey 42 and Hylas 49 are pretty 
> rock solid choices in my opinion.
>  
> Could be an interesting thread for us.
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
>  
> 
> There should be an 's' at the end of that link.
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3204/5976 - Release Date: 07/09/13
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Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time

[Dave Godwin]

What, no list-love for the Rob Ball designed, "original" 37-footer?  There must 
be someone out there who likes them other than me. I hope...

Cheers,
Dave
1982 (unloved) C&C 37 - Ronin

On Jul 10, 2013, at 10:20 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> The 30mkI definitely needs to be on the list; and I would add the LF38.  
> Also, the 35mkI as others have mentioned.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> On Jul 10, 2013, at 7:34 AM, Ron Casciato  wrote:
> 
>> I know we’d all vote for our own boat….. but the 38-40’s models had, for 
>> me, the most attractive lines and proportions of he whole fleet………. I sail 
>> one of the 38MKII’s built in Bruckman’s yard #125…get more complements 
>> on that boat still after 36 years … Majestic Blue (recent)….original deck 
>> color….Stearns tapered mast/boom (same color as the deck) all make it just 
>> right
>>  
>> Ron C.
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
>> Russell
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 6:25 AM
>> To: C&C List
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
>>  
>> Rob Ball's favorite was the 35 MK  III.  Personally, I like the 35 Mk II 
>> because I own one and she is a sweet sailor and much better looking than the 
>> newer boats (IMHO).  I've sailed on a C&C 121 (flame retardant suit on) and 
>> she is a rocket ship.  Very nice!
>>  
>> Gary
>>  
>> 
>> On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 12:27 AM, Russ & Melody  wrote:
>> Hi Dennis,
>> 
>> I think Andrew said it best. The 35 mk-1 was the boat that really built the 
>> company... and still has the best sheer. IMHO 
>> 
>> She feels like a much bigger boat than she is, when sailing.
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> 
>> From: Andrew Burton 
>> To: "robertlma...@gmail.com ...snip... list.com" 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats
>> 
>> The 35 mark 1, just because she was and is such a beauty and still had a 
>> good layout and sailed really well.
>> The 27 Mk 1 but then I'm prejudiced, having spent many many happy hours 
>> cruising with my old dad on his.
>> I'd put the 39 on there, even though she had more of a racing layout; what a 
>> joy to sail and look at that boat!
>> The 30 mk1, because of its longevity...and similarity to the 27
>> I think the 35 Mk 3 should be on there, too, not that I have any experience 
>> with the boat, beyond looking at them during the search that resulted in 
>> acquiring Peregrine.
>> Andy
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI 
>> USA02840
>> 
>> 
>> At 07:32 PM 09/07/2013, you wrote:
>>> OK.  Subject change.  New Thread.
>>> 
>>> Discussion starts.NOW!
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> From: "robertlma...@gmail.com" 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 9:13 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats
>>>  
>>> What I personally would find interesting is what this esteemed group thinks 
>>> are the top ten C&Cs of all time? The reason for your choice would also be 
>>> of interest.
>>> 
>>> Rob
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> -- 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Introduction

[Dave Godwin]

Peter,

I did a complete refit of the electrical system on my boat and I second what 
Fred suggested. I chose similar items and have nothing but great things to say 
about the Blue Sea panels and systems.

I used these for my main panels, 120 VAC and 12 VDC. I didn't go with meters 
because I already have a battery management monitor with that info.

I used this item for my battery management: Dual Bank

If you are pressed for space, the new "360" line of panels are the ticket. They 
were not quite on the market when I started my project but I would have 
probably gone with them. Spendy though...

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Jul 11, 2013, at 11:46 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> Peter -- I'd suggest you look at something like this for your main panel:
> 
> http://www.bluesea.com/products/8084/AC_Main_%2B_6_Positions_DC_Main_%2B_15_Positions
> 
> Then use this for your newly-redone battery system:   :^)
> 
> http://www.bluesea.com/products/8080/Dual_Battery_Bank_Management_Panel
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> On Jul 11, 2013, at 10:09 AM, Gary Nylander  wrote:
> 
>> Electrical - one of the previous owners (I am number 3) had the electrical 
>> updated. There is a 120 volt panel to the left of the sink with six circuit 
>> breakers, for the 120 volt outlets, battery charger, and others. The 12volt 
>> stuff is near the ice box. The panel has about a dozen breakers for most of 
>> the usual stuff.
> 
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Introduction and gastric reflux

[Dave Godwin]

Yup.

As someone who had a boat sink in it's slip because of a back-siphon "issue" 
(my fault) I'm  keenly aware of the importance of well maintained siphon 
loops.

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin


On Jul 11, 2013, at 8:27 PM, Martin DeYoung wrote:

> >> I never really understood the loop in the discharge line.<<
>  
> The vented loop is indeed to prevent a syphon from beginning.  I have the 
> vented loops for all hoses that can access raw water in quantities that would 
> create a flooding. (head discharge and engine raw water especially)  I have 
> also read of placing a syphon break in the raw water supply for the bowl but 
> do not have one on Calypso’s head.  We shut off the head water supply when 
> not in use.
>  
> I have not specifically studied whether a hose that only goes between the 
> head discharge and the top of a holding tank would require a vented loop (air 
> space of a partially full tank would also be a syphon break).  I would 
> recommend having the hose routed to avoid standing black water in the hose 
> (run downhill to tank) as standing black water will cause odor to permeate 
> the hose.
>  
> >> I've never actually done my business on a boat before… <<
>  
> Wow.  Having made multiple 20 to 30 day offshore passages and cruised with 
> the family on board I have never considered the option of keeping the head 
> that pristine.  I will discuss this with the 7 to 8 Calypso Crew that will be 
> onboard for a 100 mile race late August.  Maybe there will be enough wind for 
> everyone to hold it start to finish. 
>  
> When well offshore, especially in trade wind conditions (i.e. warm) I have 
> been known to use the “aft” head, the one with a great ocean view.  Sitting 
> out in the open air with a roll of TP on a sail tie around my neck it was 
> mostly comfortable but one does worry about the errant flying fish.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
> Plavsa
> Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 8:29 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Introduction and gastric reflux
>  
> I never really understood the loop in the discharge line. If your discharge 
> line feeds the tank on top of the tank, in the middle, how would the contents 
> of the holding tank get back into the hose? I understand not everyone's setup 
> is this way ... and I'm only chiming in because I'm about to plumb mine the 
> way I described, I hope I'm not screwing something up. I don't like the idea 
> of a vented loop in my discharge, complicated .. and potentially gross.
>  
> As to Peter's problem, my guess is the hose goes up before it goes down 
> again, so there are always contents in the hose. Your joker valve isn't 
> working well so the contents of the hose backwash into the bowl (IMO another 
> argument in favour of ditching the vented loop in the discharge). The fix 
> would be to fix/replace that joker valve and to make sure to pump the 
> contents well clear so that if there is any backwash it's .. cleaner. I've 
> never actually done my business on a boat before so I'm not the best person 
> to be giving this advice, much less redesigning and installing my own system 
> so if I'm off base I'de like to know!
>  
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>  
>  
> 
> On Thu, Jul 11, 2013 at 8:27 AM, dwight veinot  
> wrote:
> Probably caused by siphoning action…do you have a vented loop in the 
> discharge line? Like this one:
> http://ca.binnacle.com/Plumbing-&-Pumps-Plumbing-Hardware/c31_264/p2249/FORESPAR-1-1/2&%2334-VENTED-LOOP/product_info.html
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
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Re: Stus-List Fw: Best C&C's of all time

[Dave Godwin]

Finally! List-love for the sweet sailing, beautiful drawn (Bob Perry's, not 
mine) original 37!

Of course, that goes for all the C&C's.

Cheers guys.
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 12, 2013, at 21:58, Pete Shelquist  wrote:

> I hear ya. 
>  
> Pete
> Celebration*
> C&C 37
> Bayfield, WI
>  
> *Winner of 2013 Bayfield Race Week Class B.  No big deal.
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
> Hall
> Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 8:18 PM
> To: cnc-list
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Best C&C's of all time
>  
> Me too.
> Bill Hall
> Starfire
> C&C 37
> Stamford, CT
>  
> 
> On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 9:16 PM, Persuasion  wrote:
> Dave
>  
> I’m just sitting back listening to everyone rant about their boat knowing 
> full well that I have the best boat on the planet.
>  
> Mike
> S/V Persuasion
> C&C 37 Keel/CB
> Long Sault
>  
> From: Dave Godwin
> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 11:20 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
>  
> What, no list-love for the Rob Ball designed, "original" 37-footer?  There 
> must be someone out there who likes them other than me. I hope...
>  
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 1982 (unloved) C&C 37 - Ronin
>  
> On Jul 10, 2013, at 10:20 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:
> 
> 
> The 30mkI definitely needs to be on the list; and I would add the LF38.  
> Also, the 35mkI as others have mentioned.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>  
> On Jul 10, 2013, at 7:34 AM, Ron Casciato  wrote:
> 
> 
> I know we’d all vote for our own boat….. but the 38-40’s models had, for 
> me, the most attractive lines and proportions of he whole fleet………. I sail 
> one of the 38MKII’s built in Bruckman’s yard #125…get more complements on 
> that boat still after 36 years … Majestic Blue (recent)….original deck 
> color….Stearns tapered mast/boom (same color as the deck) all make it just 
> right
>  
> Ron C.
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
> Russell
> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 6:25 AM
> To: C&C List
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
>  
> Rob Ball's favorite was the 35 MK  III.  Personally, I like the 35 Mk II 
> because I own one and she is a sweet sailor and much better looking than the 
> newer boats (IMHO).  I've sailed on a C&C 121 (flame retardant suit on) and 
> she is a rocket ship.  Very nice!
>  
> Gary
>  
> 
> On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 12:27 AM, Russ & Melody  wrote:
> Hi Dennis,
> 
> I think Andrew said it best. The 35 mk-1 was the boat that really built the 
> company... and still has the best sheer. IMHO 
> 
> She feels like a much bigger boat than she is, when sailing.
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> 
> From: Andrew Burton 
> To: "robertlma...@gmail.com ...snip... list.com" 
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats
> 
> The 35 mark 1, just because she was and is such a beauty and still had a good 
> layout and sailed really well.
> The 27 Mk 1 but then I'm prejudiced, having spent many many happy hours 
> cruising with my old dad on his.
> I'd put the 39 on there, even though she had more of a racing layout; what a 
> joy to sail and look at that boat!
> The 30 mk1, because of its longevity...and similarity to the 27
> I think the 35 Mk 3 should be on there, too, not that I have any experience 
> with the boat, beyond looking at them during the search that resulted in 
> acquiring Peregrine.
> Andy
> 
> 
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> 
> At 07:32 PM 09/07/2013, you wrote:
> OK.  Subject change.  New Thread.
> 
> Discussion starts.NOW!
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>  
> From: "robertlma...@gmail.com" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 9:13 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats
>  
> What I personally would find interesting is what this esteemed group thinks 
> are the top ten C&Cs of all time? The reason for your choice would also be of 
> interest.
> 
> Rob
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
>  
> -- 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://

Re: Stus-List Fw: Best C&C's of all time

[Dave Godwin]

ETA: Bob Perry's words, not mine... 

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 12, 2013, at 22:36, Dave Godwin  wrote:

> Finally! List-love for the sweet sailing, beautiful drawn (Bob Perry's, not 
> mine) original 37!
> 
> Of course, that goes for all the C&C's.
> 
> Cheers guys.
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Jul 12, 2013, at 21:58, Pete Shelquist  wrote:
> 
>> I hear ya. 
>>  
>> Pete
>> Celebration*
>> C&C 37
>> Bayfield, WI
>>  
>> *Winner of 2013 Bayfield Race Week Class B.  No big deal.
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
>> Hall
>> Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 8:18 PM
>> To: cnc-list
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fw: Best C&C's of all time
>>  
>> Me too.
>> Bill Hall
>> Starfire
>> C&C 37
>> Stamford, CT
>>  
>> 
>> On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 9:16 PM, Persuasion  wrote:
>> Dave
>>  
>> I’m just sitting back listening to everyone rant about their boat knowing 
>> full well that I have the best boat on the planet.
>>  
>> Mike
>> S/V Persuasion
>> C&C 37 Keel/CB
>> Long Sault
>>  
>> From: Dave Godwin
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 11:20 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
>>  
>> What, no list-love for the Rob Ball designed, "original" 37-footer?  There 
>> must be someone out there who likes them other than me. I hope...
>>  
>> Cheers,
>> Dave
>> 1982 (unloved) C&C 37 - Ronin
>>  
>> On Jul 10, 2013, at 10:20 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> The 30mkI definitely needs to be on the list; and I would add the LF38.  
>> Also, the 35mkI as others have mentioned.
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>  
>> On Jul 10, 2013, at 7:34 AM, Ron Casciato  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I know we’d all vote for our own boat….. but the 38-40’s models had, for 
>> me, the most attractive lines and proportions of he whole fleet………. I sail 
>> one of the 38MKII’s built in Bruckman’s yard #125…get more complements 
>> on that boat still after 36 years … Majestic Blue (recent)….original deck 
>> color….Stearns tapered mast/boom (same color as the deck) all make it just 
>> right
>>  
>> Ron C.
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
>> Russell
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 6:25 AM
>> To: C&C List
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
>>  
>> Rob Ball's favorite was the 35 MK  III.  Personally, I like the 35 Mk II 
>> because I own one and she is a sweet sailor and much better looking than the 
>> newer boats (IMHO).  I've sailed on a C&C 121 (flame retardant suit on) and 
>> she is a rocket ship.  Very nice!
>>  
>> Gary
>>  
>> 
>> On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 12:27 AM, Russ & Melody  wrote:
>> Hi Dennis,
>> 
>> I think Andrew said it best. The 35 mk-1 was the boat that really built the 
>> company... and still has the best sheer. IMHO 
>> 
>> She feels like a much bigger boat than she is, when sailing.
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> 
>> From: Andrew Burton 
>> To: "robertlma...@gmail.com ...snip... list.com" 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising World's 40 best sailboats
>> 
>> The 35 mark 1, just because she was and is such a beauty and still had a 
>> good layout and sailed really well.
>> The 27 Mk 1 but then I'm prejudiced, having spent many many happy hours 
>> cruising with my old dad on his.
>> I'd put the 39 on there, even though she had more of a racing layout; what a 
>> joy to sail and look at that boat!
>> The 30 mk1, because of its longevity...and similarity to the 27
>> I think the 35 Mk 3 should be on there, too, not that I have any experience 
>> with the boat, beyond looking at them during the search that resulted in 
>> acquiring Peregrine.
>> Andy
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI 
>> USA02840
>> 
>> 
>> At 07:32 PM 09/07/2013, you wrote:
>> OK.  Subject change.  New Thread.
>> 
>> Discussion starts.NOW!
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>>  
>> From: "robertlma...@gmail.com" 
>> To: cnc-list@cn

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Dave Godwin]

I'd put in my vote for a Pullman berth boat but they don't seem to be very 
widely available. Works pretty well underway and very well at anchor. The two 
boats that I've spent offshore time on that  had them were a Passport 43 and 
interestingly, an Oyster 48 Lightwave (Carl Schumacher design) center cockpit 
that had a Pullman berth in the aft/stateroom cabin.

If I were upgrading I would be looking for that setup.

My $.02.

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Aug 20, 2013, at 10:29 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:

> Interesting comment on the Hylas, agree on the Amel.
> 
> One thing to keep in mind is that layout options change significantly once 
> you get into the upper 40's. You may want to consider the "Pullman" berth 
> which gives you some of the advantages of a more secure sleeping arrangement 
> underway (at least on one tack) with many of the benefits of an island berth.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:59 PM, Colin Kilgour  wrote:
> 
>> I've got a lot of sea miles on my Gulfstar 50 and there aren't many
>> boats I'd trade for.  (Caveat: if my budget was over $600k, there are
>> quite a few boats I'd trade for) (btw- you've been on my boat, don't
>> forget)
>> 
>> I've done ocean passages on some pretty nice (and expensive) boats
>> that I wouldn't trade with, including: Hallberg Rassy 49, Little
>> Harbor 54, Shannon 46.All nice boats, but 3-6 times the price of
>> mine, and no more comfortable or speedy at sea and not as comfy at
>> anchor.
>> 
>> That said, the Gulfstar fleet is getting pretty old and many of them
>> have a lot of miles on them so it's hard to find a decent one at a
>> good price.
>> 
>> My thoughts on some of the other boats mentioned:
>> 
>> Amel - great build quality; ugly (imo); no ventilation (so you're
>> using A/C at anchor).
>> 
>> Hylas - their spade rudders have a habit of falling to the ocean
>> floor.  Not sure why, but I've seen it more than once.
>> 
>> 41DS - Nice boat.  Probably not super comfy at sea due to the plumb
>> bow.  Also, those big windows scare me at sea. (I've spent some time
>> on the 54DS and it's pretty nice)
>> 
>> Centreline queen V-berths - great at anchor.  Crappy at sea.
>> 
>> Landfall 43 - low coamings in cockpit will kill your back.
>> 
>> Landfall 48 - I like a lot and might have bought one if I didn't find
>> Bojangles.  Like the hard dodger and pilothouse.
>> 
>> My $0.02.
>> 
>> Happy hunting.
>> 
>> Cheers
>> Colin
>> 
>> 
>> On 8/20/13, Robert Abbott  wrote:
>>> Richard:
>>> 
>>> I have absolutely no experience with Bristol yachts...but I will share
>>> this one storya few weeks back there was a Bristol 41 (I believe it
>>> was a 41) here boat now sold and moved out of Halifax.
>>> 
>>> In light to medium to air, a Mirage 24 out sailed the Bristol 41.
>>> That's all I have to say!
>>> 
>>> Bob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 2013/08/20 10:59 AM, Richard Walter wrote:
 Greetings,
 
 After almost 10 years aboard INDIGO, our 1978 36-footer, we are
 considering moving to a different boat. We would like a heavier
 coastal/bluewater cruiser with more comfort, better tracking, more
 convenient sail-handling (in-mast or in-boom) and a master stateroom
 with a centerline berth (which pretty much requires we buy a center
 cockpit boat). We are looking closely at Bristol yachts; they seem to
 meet all of our criteria, especially the 43.3 and the 47.7. Does
 anyone have any experience with Bristols, especially the 43.3 and
 47.7? Any other Bristols we should consider? Any other boat brands we
 should consider?
 
 Feel free to contact me off-list so as to not burden Stu'sList with a
 non-C&C topic.
 
 sailind...@yahoo.com
 
 Thank you,
 Richard
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft

[Dave Godwin]

Sounds familiar. I bought a regulator, 50' of hose and 80 cubic foot aluminum 
tank. Works well.

Jake, the water clarity observation was interesting. My experience is that the 
upper sections of the Bay are less clear. I have noticed that this year the 
waters in our area are much, much more visible than in years past. Good for 
cleaning but it's been a terrible year for crabs...

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

On Sep 3, 2013, at 9:14 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

> Same here.  My buddy, who is a salvage diver, recommended I pick up a 
> Conshelf XIV off eBay.  I bought a Brownie's 3rd lung 50 foot hose and a 2 
> piece wet suit.  All told, around $300.  I borrow a bottle of air from my 
> buddy and spend 45 minutes under the boat with the gators.  Done.
> 
> Rig came in handy last year when I had to change my prop in the water.
> 
> Divers in my area are about $80-90 for a 35-40 footer.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> From: Jake Brodersen 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 7:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
> 
> Joe,
> 
> I clean my own bottom too.  It was well worth the investment in dive gear
> and training.  I can clean the bottom before each race and not worry about
> the expense.  The going rate around here is anywhere from $1.50 to $2.00 a
> foot, unless the bottom is really fouled.  Then plan on spending more.
> 
> I clean the bottom every day at Screwpile.  The water is clear enough to see
> what I'm doing, unlike the lower Chesapeake...
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Midnight Mistress
> Hampton VA
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
> Barba, Joe
> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 8:01 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List self-cleaning shaft
> 
> I have paid anyplace between $60 and $150, depending on who does it and how
> dirty the boat is. I have my own gear too, but my wife is convinced I'll get
> a  horrible disease from swimming in the marina. She only wants me cleaning
> the boat up at the yacht club or some other semi-clean place. So far the
> worst I have had is an ear infection from Weems Creek and barnacle cuts that
> get infected. Please do NOT clean the bottom without gloves. Those cuts
> always get red and take a long time to heal :(
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina 
> 
> 
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List singlehanding bigger boats

[Dave Godwin]

Another vote here for control lines at the mast. My boat originally had all the 
halyard and reefing lines led to a winch farm aft of the mast. At some point a 
PO moved all those lines to the cockpit in order to race.

I've spent almost all my time on the water racing and lines aft makes sense but 
now that I am doing more cruising, as part of the refit of "Ronin", I am moving 
the halyards and reefing back to the mast. Like Andrew and Antoine, going 
forward and dealing with reefing is actually easier when single-handing or 
sailing with my crew. Which is my wife….

And I will be quite glad to get the snake nest of lines out of the dodger area.

Dave
1982 C"&C 37 - "Ronin"

On Oct 12, 2013, at 8:09 PM, Andrew Burton  wrote:

> Here's another vote for keeping the halyards and reef lines, etc. at the 
> mast. I singlehanded Peregrine a lot and have no problems operating the boat 
> with that set up. I think a lot of people try to operate the boat 
> singlehanded the way she would be sailed by a full crew. That's not 
> necessary. I casually walk forward and aft, taking my time with all 
> maneuvers. It seems to work out alright. And I am very happy keeping excess 
> lines out of the cockpit. Like Antoine, I just have the sheets for the main 
> and jib and the jib furling line to interfere with lounging.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Oct 12, 2013, at 5:09, "Dennis C."  wrote:
> 
>> Antoine,
>> 
>> I agree with much of your comment.  There is a way to have halyards run back 
>> to the cockpit but also operate them at the mast.  Simply install a camcleat 
>> and horn cleat on the mast a bit offset from the path of the halyard from 
>> its exit to the turning block at the base of the mast.
>> 
>> When in "mast" mode, you can hoist or lower the sail, temporarily stop it 
>> with the camcleat or more permanently stop it with the horn cleat.
>> 
>> When in "cockpit" mode the halyard will exit the mast, run to the turning 
>> block and back to the cockpit.  Or, one can hoist the sail, stop it with the 
>> camcleat, return to the cockpit and pull the slack out and stop the halyard 
>> with a cabintop rope clutch.  With a little configuration tweaking,  If done 
>> correctly, the camcleat can be position such that the line pops out of it 
>> when the slack is taken out.  The line is then free to allow the sail to be 
>> dropped from the cockpit.
>> 
>> I've sailed on boats with this arrangement for spinnaker halyards and it 
>> seems to work well.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Friday, October 11, 2013 10:52 PM, Antoine Rose 
>>  wrote:
>> It seems that many recommend bringing back the lines to the cockpit for 
>> single handling.
>> Well, allow me to trow a little rock in the pound and challenge a bit that 
>> idea.
>> I too have single handed a lot and personally, I prefer to have my lines at 
>> the mast. I know, it goes against common wisdom and what many (most) think.
>> 
>> Well, I think it is simpler and easier this way. 
>> - Hoisting: when was the last time it was easy for you to hoist the main, 
>> without a winch? When the halyard is on the mast, you have a straight pull. 
>> One block at the top of the mast and that's it. Pulling the rope down is 
>> efficient, it goes with your weight. Bringing the line back to the cockpit 
>> mean adding a block at the base of the mast, another deviation block 
>> somewhere on the roof, then the line goes through a rope clutch and then 
>> around a winch. Did you ever figured out how much friction all that is? The 
>> result is mainsails that required to be hoisted with the help of the winch 
>> almost half of the way. I raise mine to the top by hand and the winch is 
>> used only for what it was meant for, adding proper tension.
>> - My lines are neatly tidied up at the mast and I have minimal ropes in the 
>> cockpit, only the two genoa sheets and the main, that's it.
>> - Reefing, unless you have a single line systems that works very well (go 
>> back to my comment on multiple friction induce by too many turns in the 
>> line), you have to go the mast to pull down the main and insert the eye in 
>> the hook and lay down properly the main on the boom before pulling and 
>> tensioning the reef line. 
>> - The fundamental idea is to make it the easiest it can possibly be, so 
>> that, if your brain says "it maybe a good idea to reef", you go without any 
>> hesitation. The easiest it is, the more frequent you'll adjust your sail to 
>> match the weather. On my boat, everything is done at the mast. When I want 
>> to reef, I ease the main sheet and then go to the base of the mast where I 
>> do everything without moving: the halyard loosening, pulling down the main 
>> to the hook, tensioning again the halyard, adjusting the downhaul, pulling 
>> and tensioning the reef line, 

Re: Stus-List Isotemp hot water heater

[Dave Godwin]

Tom,

I installed (mostly…) an Isotemp Slim 20 water heater in my boat. Very nice 
item and it allowed me to change to location of the water heater. I don’t know 
what the locker space on a 32 is like but I was able to make a mockup of the 
dimensions to check before buying.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Feb 26, 2014, at 5:58 AM, Tom Anderson  wrote:

> Dennis,
> THANK YOU for the link to the Isotemp.  Upon your reccomondation and a review 
> in Practical Sailor I plan to but one to replace my Raritan that rusted thru 
> a couple of years ago. By the way, right now it is cheaper to buy indirect 
> thru Isotemp than Defender - Go figure!  Also, the Isotemp I think will fit 
> more easily in the sail locker than any other model.  Still have to do some 
> measuring before ordering.
> 
> Tom Anderson
> C&C 32 Nonpareil
> On the hard inMarblehead, MA
> 
> 3 days to BVI trip
> 75 days to launch
> 
> 
> Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 18:13:13 -0600
> From: Dennis Cheuvront 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising & showering
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Guess I can't help but notice the incidence of rusted out water heaters
> mentioned here.  Some brands don't use stainless.  Hence the shorter
> service lives.
> 
> For me, stainless tank.  Period.  The new Isotemp SPA series water heaters
> keep the stainless tank but switch to a polypropelene exterior.  $450 for
> the 4 gallon model.  Well worth the $200 difference over the Kuuma and
> better materials than some well known brands in my opinion.  Every time I
> "cheap" it, I end up wishing I hadn't.  It's a lesson we sailors never seem
> to learn.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Help me win a free sail!

[Dave Godwin]

Sooo, there I was, in Facebook, all ready to vote for Joel and then I notice 
that there’s another local C&C in the race. A nice looking 37 no less!

Now I have a voting dilemma. Is this a “vote early, vote often” kinda thing?

Good luck to both of you on a very, very fun race and great destination!

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Feb 25, 2014, at 9:58 PM, Steve Sharkey  wrote:

> I’m going to jump on the opportunity to note that I’ll also be racing and am 
> one of the 13 entered.  I would love to also get your vote!
>  
> Thanks
> Steve
> Impromptu
> 1983 C&C 37
>  
> From: Joel Aronson
> Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2014 3:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Help me win a free sail!
>  
> All,
>  
> Bacon Sails is giving away a free sail to one 13 of the Annapolis Bermuda 
> race participants who entered their free sail contest.
>  
> Voting opens around 8:00 a.m. ET tomorrow and only runs through noon 
> Thursday.  Voting will be on the RC Facebook page:
>  
> https://www.facebook.com/annapolis2bermuda
>  
> Please vote early and often!
>  
> -- 
> Joel
> The Office
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 301 541 8551
> 
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Re: Stus-List Isotemp hot water heater - refit resource!

[Dave Godwin]

>PS Are you Wally's little brother?<

Nah, I’m fairly certain that I have the years on him. ;-)

But I do have an original bookmark that I made to his site, right around the 
time he bought that boat. Spent a lot of time researching…

Cheers.
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Feb 26, 2014, at 12:27 PM, Lee Youngblood  
wrote:

> Thanks Dave,
> 
> I bookmarked your refit site!  What a great inspiring resource!
> 
> Thanks, Lee
> 
> PS Are you Wally's little brother?
> 
> 
> 
>> I 
>> <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/02/new-hot-water-heater.html>installed
>>  (mostlyŠ) an Isotemp Slim 20 water heater in my boat. Very nice item and it 
>> allowed me to change to location of the water heater. I don't know what the 
>> locker space on a 32 is like but I was able to make a mockup of the 
>> dimensions to check before buying.
>> 
>> Best,
>> 
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>Ronin's Overdue Refit
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Laminates

[Dave Godwin]

On Mar 2, 2014, at 5:05 PM, Will Harris  wrote:

> I'll take a shot at answering some of the questions in a general way:
> 
> The bits and pieces=
> 
> Gelcoat - gives a finished outer surface and makes the part easier to get out 
> of the mold
> 
> Fibers - The fibers are what give strength to the part.  The engineers have 
> gotten very clever to matching the type, amount and orientation of the fibers 
> to realize the best strength to weight ratio
> 
> Resin-  The resin is only there to hold the fibers in orientation. Resin does 
> not add strength on its own really.
> 
> Core- The core separates two thin skins.  The skins can be a lot lighter, and 
> stiffer working together across a core.
> 
> A good laminate-
> 
> A good laminate comes from:
> 
> Good engineering.  Really, this is the key. After it, it is just execution.  
> Getting the right fiber, orientation, resin, resin ratio, Core and cure is 
> probably 80% of the game.  If you have a crappy recipe, you get a crappy 
> cookie.
> 
> Fibers - There are a few basic fibers used commonly in boatbuilding.  Glass, 
> Carbon and Kevlar.  There are all sorts of different types, weaves and 
> delivery systems with in each group. Kevlar is receding in popularity.
> 
> Cores - There are 3 main cores - Balsa, foam, honeycomb.  Basically, they go 
> in that order for both cost and performance.  The core needs to be strong 
> enough to resist the sheer forces of the two skins trying to go opposite 
> directions.  Most of the time when the Volvo boats have big delam issues, it 
> is because the core sheered.  The right thickness of core is important.  Too 
> thin, the boat will not be stiff.  Too thick, you add weight and $$ for 
> nothing.
> 
> Resins - Polyester, Vinylester, Epoxy.  Again, performance tracks price!  
> Poly is cheap.  It is the most brittle too.  Epoxy is awesome stuff.  One of 
> its best properties is that it is the most flexible.  Sounds 
> counter-intuitive but that is good.  In poly, little microscopic cracks form 
> because it is brittle.  This lets the fibers move a little in relation to 
> each other and the boat gets softer overtime.
> Vinylester is right between.  We like it a lot because it shares many of the 
> good properties of epoxy, it easy to work with and is a bit less expensive 
> than epoxy.  A bonus is that Polyester gelcoat sticks to it just fine!
> 
> Resin to Fiber ratio -  Too much resin in the laminate is a common issue.  It 
> seems like you would just slather it in there, but you'd be wrong.  Each 
> system has an ideal resin/fiber ratio.  Too much resin does two things; 1- 
> Adds weight- remember, resin is not very strong.   2- makes the laminate 
> weaker!  Remember those micro-cracks.  The are cracks in the resin. We want 
> the fibers nice and tight with just enough resin to hold them in place.
> 
> Compaction-  As discussed a second ago, we want the fibers nice and squished 
> together.  Air voids are hard to eliminate, but must be minimized.  They 
> weaken the laminate a ton.
> 
> Building Process -  Wet lay-up, infusion, pre-preg.  Again in $$:performance. 
>  Assuming we are using female tooling.  In wet layup, the cloth is put in the 
> mold dry and wet out and compacted with rollers. Fast simple cheap.  Your 
> boats were made this way.
> 
> Infusion- In the infusion method, all the fiber, core etc are put in the mold 
> dry.  Then we stick a vacuum bag on it with very strategically placed resin 
> inlets and exhausts.  We draw the vacuum, and get the laminate really firmly 
> consolidated.  Then, a metered amount of catalyzed resin is introduced 
> through the ports.  Getting the ports place right is really important to draw 
> the proper resing front through the part.  When the correct amount of resin 
> is injected, the vacuum stays on until the part cures.  This gives us really 
> good control over both the resin ratio and the consolidation.
> 
> Pre-preg - carbon comes from a laboratory with a heat setting epoxy already 
> in the fiber.  This is placed in the mold, a vacuum applied and it is cooked 
> in a oven.  First, the heat melts the glue and lets it flow.  Then the heat 
> is kicked up a notch and that sets off the cure cycle.  There is a really 
> specific protocol for ramp up, cure and ramp down temps.  If you really like 
> spending, the oven can be an autoclave with increases the pressure to about 6 
> ATM as opposed to the 1 possible with an ambient bag.
> 
> This is the highest performance option, but stupid spendy.  Our little 30 
> footer could come out a the $330 - $400 K range. Ouch.
> 
> That is a short ( for an overview), but long ( for a mail list ) run down of 
> modern boat building.  If you have specific questions; fire away.
> 
> Come to the Open House!  We will be running infusion demonstrations, and the 
> smart guys will be able to explain anything to you.  Plus, you can heckle 
> Andy and get a free lunch.
> 
> Will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Will Harris
> Waterline Sys

Re: Stus-List Laminates

[Dave Godwin]

Okay, forget the empty reply earlier. Fat fingers…

Will,

Thanks for the explanation of the build options and attendant processes. It was 
really interesting to me to see how the industry approaches these things. 
I think those explanations allow buyers to properly place the factors that are 
important to them in perspective.

Some time back I noted that there was the open house in Newport and I gave 
serious consideration to just coming up and seeing it, the fellow sailers, and 
builders but the distance (and maybe weather concerns…) put it just a bit out 
of reach.

I hope that you have good luck in the future.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Mar 2, 2014, at 5:05 PM, Will Harris  wrote:

> I'll take a shot at answering some of the questions in a general way:
> 
> The bits and pieces=
> 
> Gelcoat - gives a finished outer surface and makes the part easier to get out 
> of the mold
> 
> Fibers - The fibers are what give strength to the part.  The engineers have 
> gotten very clever to matching the type, amount and orientation of the fibers 
> to realize the best strength to weight ratio
> 
> Resin-  The resin is only there to hold the fibers in orientation. Resin does 
> not add strength on its own really.
> 
> Core- The core separates two thin skins.  The skins can be a lot lighter, and 
> stiffer working together across a core.
> 
> A good laminate-
> 
> A good laminate comes from:
> 
> Good engineering.  Really, this is the key. After it, it is just execution.  
> Getting the right fiber, orientation, resin, resin ratio, Core and cure is 
> probably 80% of the game.  If you have a crappy recipe, you get a crappy 
> cookie.
> 
> Fibers - There are a few basic fibers used commonly in boatbuilding.  Glass, 
> Carbon and Kevlar.  There are all sorts of different types, weaves and 
> delivery systems with in each group. Kevlar is receding in popularity.
> 
> Cores - There are 3 main cores - Balsa, foam, honeycomb.  Basically, they go 
> in that order for both cost and performance.  The core needs to be strong 
> enough to resist the sheer forces of the two skins trying to go opposite 
> directions.  Most of the time when the Volvo boats have big delam issues, it 
> is because the core sheered.  The right thickness of core is important.  Too 
> thin, the boat will not be stiff.  Too thick, you add weight and $$ for 
> nothing.
> 
> Resins - Polyester, Vinylester, Epoxy.  Again, performance tracks price!  
> Poly is cheap.  It is the most brittle too.  Epoxy is awesome stuff.  One of 
> its best properties is that it is the most flexible.  Sounds 
> counter-intuitive but that is good.  In poly, little microscopic cracks form 
> because it is brittle.  This lets the fibers move a little in relation to 
> each other and the boat gets softer overtime.
> Vinylester is right between.  We like it a lot because it shares many of the 
> good properties of epoxy, it easy to work with and is a bit less expensive 
> than epoxy.  A bonus is that Polyester gelcoat sticks to it just fine!
> 
> Resin to Fiber ratio -  Too much resin in the laminate is a common issue.  It 
> seems like you would just slather it in there, but you'd be wrong.  Each 
> system has an ideal resin/fiber ratio.  Too much resin does two things; 1- 
> Adds weight- remember, resin is not very strong.   2- makes the laminate 
> weaker!  Remember those micro-cracks.  The are cracks in the resin. We want 
> the fibers nice and tight with just enough resin to hold them in place.
> 
> Compaction-  As discussed a second ago, we want the fibers nice and squished 
> together.  Air voids are hard to eliminate, but must be minimized.  They 
> weaken the laminate a ton.
> 
> Building Process -  Wet lay-up, infusion, pre-preg.  Again in $$:performance. 
>  Assuming we are using female tooling.  In wet layup, the cloth is put in the 
> mold dry and wet out and compacted with rollers. Fast simple cheap.  Your 
> boats were made this way.
> 
> Infusion- In the infusion method, all the fiber, core etc are put in the mold 
> dry.  Then we stick a vacuum bag on it with very strategically placed resin 
> inlets and exhausts.  We draw the vacuum, and get the laminate really firmly 
> consolidated.  Then, a metered amount of catalyzed resin is introduced 
> through the ports.  Getting the ports place right is really important to draw 
> the proper resing front through the part.  When the correct amount of resin 
> is injected, the vacuum stays on until the part cures.  This gives us really 
> good control over both the resin ratio and the consolidation.
> 
> Pre-preg - carbon comes from a laboratory with a heat setting epoxy already 
> in the fiber.  This is placed in the mold

Re: Stus-List Open House

[Dave Godwin]

I’ve always enjoyed the name “WOFTAM”, which I think is on a local Mumm 30 
(Annapolis). I’ve thought about changing my boat’s name to that...


On Mar 5, 2014, at 2:28 PM, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> There is a older sailboat I see at Ballantynes Cove every summer named JAFTICA
> 
> Anyone guess what that one translates to?
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> 
> On 5 March 2014 15:19, Rick Brass  wrote:
> I always thought that would be a great name for a cruising boat. Except you’d 
> need to explain it to every lock and bridge tender on the ICW.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ve been reminded several times, recently, about what he identified as the 
> first sign of the decay of a society in the novel Friday. Heinlein was a very 
> perceptive fellow.
> 
>  
> 
> And I can see from the responses so far that we have another experience set 
> to add to British Sports Cars and Foredeck Cows here on the list.
> 
>  
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 12:45 PM
> To: 1 CnC List
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Open House
> 
>  
> 
> TANSTAAFL.
> 
> Name that author.
> 
> 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Open House

[Dave Godwin]

Gary, correct. I just remembered that it was her and her husband's Peterson 34. 
A buddy of mine had a sister ship that I raced on a few times. The Mumm owner 
must’a stole the name...

Dave
On Mar 5, 2014, at 3:39 PM, Gary Nylander  wrote:

> It was a bit bigger than a Mumm 30, but impressive. Saw it at Miles River 
> Yacht Club one year after the Annapolis to St. Michaels race. It was owned by 
> Wendy Mittman Clarke who later became the editor of Chesapeake Bay magazine.
>  
> I can translate if anyone needs
>  
> I think it is a great name, there's another - TABOOMA.
>  
> Gary
> ----- Original Message -
> From: Dave Godwin
> To: kenhea...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 2:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Open House
> 
> I’ve always enjoyed the name “WOFTAM”, which I think is on a local Mumm 30 
> (Annapolis). I’ve thought about changing my boat’s name to that...
> 
> 
> On Mar 5, 2014, at 2:28 PM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
>> There is a older sailboat I see at Ballantynes Cove every summer named 
>> JAFTICA
>> 
>> Anyone guess what that one translates to?
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>> 
>> On 5 March 2014 15:19, Rick Brass  wrote:
>> I always thought that would be a great name for a cruising boat. Except 
>> you’d need to explain it to every lock and bridge tender on the ICW.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’ve been reminded several times, recently, about what he identified as the 
>> first sign of the decay of a society in the novel Friday. Heinlein was a 
>> very perceptive fellow.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> And I can see from the responses so far that we have another experience set 
>> to add to British Sports Cars and Foredeck Cows here on the list.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 12:45 PM
>> To: 1 CnC List
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Open House
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> TANSTAAFL.
>> 
>> Name that author.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Open House--Now boat names

[Dave Godwin]

Many years ago (IOR?) there was a doctor co-owned race boat in Annapolis. I 
believe it was an OB-Gyn and a Psychiatrist. Boat name: "Heads And Tails"...

Cheers,
Dave

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 5, 2014, at 17:45, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

> I did Transpac ’85 on a Barnett 52 named “Climax”.  We chartered “Climax” 
> from two Dr.’s of Gynecology.
>  
> We drove “Climax” like it was rented, got First to Finish in Class B.  
> Crossed gybes with “Merlin” (SC 70) 1 day out of Honolulu.  Only 7 boats beat 
> us to the dock and all were 70’+.  Also won Sauza Cup (Lahaina) that year.  
> Possibly the most fun I have had with my clothes on.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Wagner
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 2:37 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Open House--Now boat names
>  
> In Annapolis, a Wylie 30, owned by 2 Doctors, a psychiatrist and a 
> proctologist was named “Heads and Tails”
>  
> From: Rick Brass
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 5:23 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Open House
>  
> A local racer used to have a boat named after his wife. After the divorce, 
> the boat got rechristened “White Bitch”.
>  
> Rick Brass
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Now Boat Names

[Dave Godwin]

Well, since it’s (still!) winter here in the Northern Hemisphere (and Northern 
Neck) and we’re on the topic of boat names, I thought I’d offer up why my boats 
are always named “Ronin” should anyone be interested. 'Cause folks are always 
asking me if I’ve seen the the move “Ronin”. Yes, I have...

As many of you probably know, Ronin literally means “Wave Man.” That is one of 
several reasons that I chose the name. Seemed apt. The other idiomatic 
definition is “wandering man.”  This is another very important reason I had for 
choosing the name. I’m a old foreign service brat and have spent a fair amount 
of time growing up outside of my native United States. More like well-heeled 
traveling than wandering actually, but hey, it fits the narrative.

As part of the wandering bit, I spent my senior year of high school in a 
boarding school in Japan a long, long way from my family. I loved it. I loved 
my time immersed in Japanese culture and it’s esthetic. And significantly, my 
Japanese History classes were taught by a teacher that had a profound impact on 
me. I learned the nature of “character is destiny” as the significant factor to 
historical milestones as opposed to dry historical dates. But I digress.

The other factor in the choice of the name Ronin is that it is the term used to 
describe a “salaryman” who is between jobs or a student who has not been 
accepted to a university. I’ll let it stand at that. Both definitions are 
appropriate. There are other relative interpretations that involve class rank 
that are complex with regard to the definition.

Anyway, most folks think that when I tell them that our boat is named Ronin 
they assume that it involves sharp swords and slicing people into little bits. 
That isn’t even remotly why I name my boats Ronin. 

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Mar 6, 2014, at 10:27 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> As you may have guessed, my boat's name is based on a Lucille Ball / Desi 
> Arnez-produced 1960’s failed train-wreck NBC television series . . .
> 
> . . . which led to highly-rated syndication, five spin-off television series 
> and 12 feature films, not to mention decades and decades of merchandising 
> dollars for Paramount/Viacom. 
> 
> For me, though, the Starship Enterprise was an “escape vehicle” — when I got 
> home from grade school in the 70s, I could leave all the pressures and 
> troubles behind, turn on WPIX channel 11, and I’ll be exploring the final 
> frontier’s strange new worlds, seeking out new life and new civilizations . . 
> .
> 
> In 1980, I bought my first sailboat, an O’Day 7-11 sailing dinghy, pretty 
> much right after the release of The Motion Picture, a wholly lousy film on 
> may levels, except for the Enterprise itself. Once again, I felt my 
> imagination was able to escape the day-to-day life in suburbia. There could 
> be no other name. The sailboat had to be named Enterprise. 
> 
> When I turned 18, after I got the whole “you’re a man now” speech from my 
> father, I aptly decided to cut school to see the third movie with some 
> friends for my birthday, and got the worst birthday present ever — the 
> Enterprise exploded from self-destruct over Planet Genesis. My escape vehicle 
> was gone. Adulthood slapped me in the face - hard.
> 
> Fortunately, a couple of years later, I went to see the fourth feature film - 
> a time-travel story to rescue humpback whales from 20th-Century earth. At the 
> very end, Kirk and crew were delivered to a brand new Enterprise with a hull 
> number of NCC-1701-A. The escape vehicle was back and my imagination could, 
> one again, boldly go.
> 
> Since then, we have seen several future versions of the famed starship; 
> 1701-B, 1701-C, 1701-D, 1701-E and even a brief glimpse of the 1701-J. 
> 
> So, like the series, I decided that all of my future vessels will also carry 
> the name Enterprise, and I’ll have my very own escape vehicle to get away 
> from the pressure of work and life while exploring LI Sound and the 
> surrounding areas. 
> 
> As I tell my crew, when sailing on the Enterprise, we have one Prime 
> Directive — Wherever we go, we go boldly.
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List Owners database

[Dave Godwin]

Stu, looks good however I “technically” would have a problem filling out the 
owner part. My wife actually owns the boat and I’m the “mate.” And we have 
different last names. She’s pretty smart though. I do all the maintenance and 
upgrades and she just gets to step onboard and has someone run the boat. Just 
like fellow Baltimoron Elizabeth Meyer...

Anyway, I’m just fooling’ around here. Don’t change it.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Mar 8, 2014, at 5:56 PM, Stu  wrote:

> Some of the preliminary work has been done on the NEW owners database.  The 
> registration is complete and waits for your comments and suggestions.
>  
> http://cncphotoalbum.com/owners_db/register.php
>  
> Don’t bother filling it in and pressing the SUBMIT button – it needs part2.
>  
> Let me know what you think.
>  
> Stu
>  
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Plexus Question

[Dave Godwin]

Jake,

I’m going to be pulling my windows and rebedding them later this summer, same 
as you. I’d be very interested in buying what you may have left and 
buying/renting/borrowing your gun.

If you get your job done soon maybe you could get Dr. Cutter do deliver them 
when he comes up for our annual Sock Burning party on March 29th! If you’re in 
the area, c’mon down. Beer, roasted oysters, chili and clam chowder in the back 
yard….

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Mar 15, 2014, at 12:51 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

> OK guys,
>  
> I’m ready to glue in my Plexiglas window using Plexus.  I saved what was left 
> from my last window, but after checking the ITW Plexus web site (and reading 
> the directions) I have found that my current stash of Plexus MA310 was 
> manufactured in Oct 2011.  It supposedly has a 7 month shelf life.  The case 
> I purchased was “recertified” in Jun 2012.  Since it is now 2014, I don’t 
> think it wise to use an adhesive that if now over 2 ½ years old.  I would 
> hate to have to redo this project any time soon. 
>  
> I plan on buying another case of Plexus (a dozen 50 ml tubes).  Is anyone 
> else planning on doing their window this year?  I would like to sell my 
> excess Plexus (the new stuff) and I could even loan the use of my Plexus gun 
> for the job.  Anyone interested?
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton Va
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Plexus Question

[Dave Godwin]

John,

N37 50.553
W 076 16.503

We’ll set some oysters aside for you and your wife just in case it takes you a 
bit longer to get here. And I will drink beer from Canada!

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Mar 16, 2014, at 11:18 AM, John McKay  wrote:

> Dave Godwin
> my wife wants to know the address.
> we will bring beer from Canada
> 
> John on Oxygen
> London ON
> 
> 
> On Sunday, March 16, 2014 9:35:38 AM, Nate Flesness  
> wrote:
> Redid mine with the standard cast acrylic bronze #2404 and Plexus and was 
> disappointed to discover after that you CAN see through the bronze and see 
> the (very imperfect) black adhesive / white hull joint. Not sure what to do 
> differently, or if white would work out better (not at all sure) but I'm 
> looking at painting the exterior edge of the acrylic to cover the 1" border 
> area.
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> 
> 
> On Sat, Mar 15, 2014 at 5:24 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> Dave,
>  
> I hope to get this project completed next weekend, assuming I can get more 
> Plexus shipped by Friday next week.  I’ll let you know how things turn out.  
> I’m using cast Plexiglas this time.  Stronger, supposedly.  We’ll see how 
> long these last.
>  
> Jake
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
> Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2014 4:38 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Plexus Question
>  
> Jake,
>  
> I’m going to be pulling my windows and rebedding them later this summer, same 
> as you. I’d be very interested in buying what you may have left and 
> buying/renting/borrowing your gun.
>  
> If you get your job done soon maybe you could get Dr. Cutter do deliver them 
> when he comes up for our annual Sock Burning party on March 29th! If you’re 
> in the area, c’mon down. Beer, roasted oysters, chili and clam chowder in the 
> back yard….
>  
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>  
> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List # of keel bolts on 37 C&C 1985

[Dave Godwin]

The number you can see plus one. Under the mast…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Mar 24, 2014, at 11:24 AM, Www.chartermi.net  
wrote:

> in total how many keel bolts on a 1985 37. is there one forward of the mast 
> step under the floor boards. leaked last year and now is supported out of the 
> water on cradle stands and keel dropped about a 3/16 of an inch. need to set 
> back down on keel and tighten ALL bolts.
> Jon Tssker
> Ghost Rider
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Honda 2000i (and now saving dinghys and AM talk radio - or my usual drivel)

[Dave Godwin]

Wal, there’s a special place reserved for you in the afterlife. And it won’t be 
the hot place...

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

P.S. Hope that star wasn’t imprinted on a 37’.  ;-)

On Mar 27, 2014, at 5:19 PM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> PS.  I was trying to think why some folks would say that the little Honda is 
> not quiet.
> 
> If it runs full throttle it is quite loud.  I would not recommend using it to 
> run an AC water heater and battery charger at the same time, or it will run 
> full throttle and really annoy the fish.  I just use it to charge batteries, 
> with the 'EcoPower' switch on and after an initial burst in bulk mode, and 
> perhaps another burst when I hit Acceptance mode, it runs just over idle 
> speed and is pretty darn quiet.
> 
> 
> PPS.  I'm soaking wet after rescuing someone's dinghy during the afternoon 
> thermal puff.  It was just floating by.  That's the price I pay for anchoring 
> away from the herd -- 'if I don't do it, nobody else will...'  It's *not* 
> easy to tow a dinghy with your dinghy in 15 knots and 2 foot whitecaps (long 
> fetch.)  I did respond on the radio, but someone thought I wasn't moving fast 
> enough and said so. Hey, I'm a single hander and I like to have a plan and 
> think a few steps ahead.  Like, before getting in the dink to go get beat up, 
> put on clothes, grab a life vest, a handheld VHF, and a hank or two of spare 
> rope to make a towing bridle, and drop the swim ladder on the mother ship.  
> Fortunately I already had a flotation device and dinghy anchor in the dink, 
> so if something went really wrong I could get on the radio and say 'okay, I 
> saved the dinghy, now can somebody save *me*.  Got a hook down, so there's no 
> rush.'
> 
> I would like to say it was a Hunter or a Catalina, but when I towed the dink 
> back to the original boat, I saw a very familiar star under the toe rail.
> 
> The dink had a tied on painter of some obviously 20-30 year old double braid 
> rope without a splice or a whipped end.  Sheesh.  I want to say the guy 
> deserved to lose it, but then again some day it might be me...
> 
> 
> PPPS.  I had to leave the marina a few weeks back, because this guy next to 
> me played AM talk radio through his cockpit speakers from dawn to 11 p.m.  
> That's a lot more annoying than a Honda generator. It wouldn't be that bad, 
> but he wasn't actually in the cockpit listening to it.  He did, however, own 
> a parrot.  This is *NOT* a joke, it's the honest truth.  The only thing the 
> parrot could say was 'Shut UP.'  I mean, all day long I'm listening to 
> political talk radio that I don't want to hear, with a parrot screaming 'Shut 
> up, Shut up, Shut up.'
> 
> This kind of stuff only happens to me.
> 
> Wal
> 
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Re: Stus-List 1970 C + C 31ft Corvette

[Dave Godwin]

Dan,

Like Martin I will be doing some deck work for wet core issues later this 
summer. I’m doing it primarily because I am going to be painting the deck and 
this is the time to fix those issues. If I were not painting the boat I might 
hold off for a bit. If I were going to do serious off-shore work then that 
would be a job that I would probably not put off.

Anyway, all the other responders have given good reasons for putting some time 
and money into your father’s boat and I am in complete agreement with them. I’m 
restoring our boat and spending far more in time and money than makes “sense” 
but I don’t really care. I like the boat, it’s cheaper to some degree than 
buying a new boat of the same size. I like doing the work. Another upside is 
that you will know your boat much better which is always comforting.

Make some upgrades, go sailing and enjoy your family’s boat!

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Apr 10, 2014, at 1:48 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

> Dan,
> 
> I am underway with similar repairs right now on our 1971 C&C 43.  I agree 
> with the answers already posted on this type of project being worth the time 
> and money on a 1970 C&C, especially if you enjoy restoring a classic with 
> long term family connections.
> 
> C&C's of the early 70's were built at several yards.  Each yard may have had 
> a slightly different way of laminating the balsa into the deck structure.  
> Calypso was built at Bruckmann's yard in 69/70 launched January 1971.  
> Bruckmann's build team was able to get resin in between many of the balsa 
> blocks, a process that helps contain water damage.
> 
> Let me know if you want some pictures of how we (the co-owners) of Calypso 
> have approached repairing wet balsa core deck.  I have not posted them on the 
> cncphotoalbum web site as they are not particularly good pics, but may be 
> helpful as you start out.  Also, search back through the cncphotoalbum's 
> Email list archives.  Wet balsa repairs are a common topic.
> 
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan Grant
> Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2014 9:03 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 1970 C + C 31ft Corvette
> 
> Hello all  
> so my dad gave me this boat  and its in ok shape it's been out of the water 
> for five years and needs to be updated I am pretty sure I'm on top of it I 
> sailed this boat with my dad during my early teens and know the boat a bit 
> but..now I'm 43 and getting back into it big time etc so I can take my family 
> out 
> 
> I just had a survey done and the hull is solid but a few parts of the deck 
> are wet Although there is no delamination I know I need to fix this There is 
> a universal diesel m18 from 86 that is in great shape but its been sitting 
> for 5 yrs winterized well fuel in tank etc 
> 
> I am updating the head with holding tank  etc
> 2 New marine batteries  the wiring is all mostly in good shape My biggest 
> question to you all  is it worth it to restore an older boat? 
> I don't want my fond memories of sailing this boat to cloud my judgement on 
> the restoration Are older boats worth the trouble? 
> New to the list
> Puffin
> 1970
> C & C corvette 31
> hull # 148
> Thanks Dan
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List rod vs wire

[Dave Godwin]

Like David we also re-did the rigging on Ronin back in 1998. The original 
spreaders were worn away at the base and the spreader tips were rotten. As he 
and others have noted, the original tangs were frozen and a bad design to boot. 
We replaced all of the tangs with the K200 fittings, re-headed all the rod and 
replaced the forestay with wire for the installation of a Harken furler. The 
backstay is original rod. The riggers had my mast for a whole month, did a 
complete survey, did the upgrades and back then (yeah, I know, some time ago…) 
they said the rod was fine when we put it all back on the boat.

Perhaps I’m not cautious enough but I am still fine with the rod. I just 
haven’t heard much about rod suddenly failing but that just may be because I 
don’t get out of the house enough.

I’ve only been on three boats where the rigging let go and one was because of a 
broken spreader, another from a broken forestay turnbuckle and the other from a 
headstay tang snapping in two because of flaw in the material (1.5” wide by 
1/2” thick S.S.) that probably came from the factory. Each time we were able to 
keep the rig up.

Anyway, if I were heading off to Australia I might re-think it but then I’m 
never heading of to Australia on my 37…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Apr 11, 2014, at 4:22 PM, David Folsom  wrote:

> I just got finished redoing some of my rod rigging on my 1981 C&C 36. 
> 
> The initial motivation for this was that the rod was original and that the 
> spreader tips were corroded and needed to be redone.
> 
> What I did was re-head my backstay, and rehead the shrouds below the first 
> spreader.
> 
> I also replaced the Nav Tangs- which are the connections where the shrouds 
> connect to the mast, as I was told the original design was a bit flawed and 
> put too much stress on the end of the rod. We replaced these with the NavTec 
> K200 fittings.
> 
> I replaced all the shrouds above the first spreader, and by modifying the 
> lower spreader tips a little, was able to get away with keeping the 
> discontinuous rod without having to use the tip cups (which are very $$$).
> 
> I was able to talk with Doug Peterson about my re-rigging plans (one of the 
> benefits of having my boat at the San Diego Yacht Club), and he told me that 
> if I wanted to go from rod to wire, I would need to increase the size of the 
> wire compared to the rod, and I would also need to extend my upper spreaders 
> outward about 6 inches. I am no engineer, and I don't recall the exact 
> reason, but Doug said this was because the stretch of the wire would require 
> this greater distance from the mast at the upper spreader.
> 
> I worked with Mark Butler in San Diego to do the rigging, and I am very 
> pleased with the results.
> 
> I was able to get all of this work done for about $3500 plus the cost of new 
> spreaders.
> 
> Now, when I am able to put a little more money asice, I can redo the backstay 
> and the lower shrouds very easily.
> 
> Overall, I am glad I spent the $$ to get this done, as I felt that using 33 
> year old rod was living on borrowed time.
> 
> I would be happy to provide more details to anyone interested.
> 
> David Folsom
> Rebel Maid
> 1981 C&C 36
> 

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Stus-List Scope of work...

[Dave Godwin]

Martin,

I’m planning on taking on my boat this summer the same job as you have 
undertaken.

This is just a general question but I’m wondering about what I may expect to 
find when I get started. My question is this: When you pull the deck hardware 
and find areas that need to fixed that have wet core, is it a matter of “large” 
areas of wet surrounding the hole or is it generally just confined to local 
intrusion around the bolt holes? Meaning I guess, are you going in a removing 
wet core within reach of the original hardware bolt hole or are you cutting up 
the top layer of deck and going in and replacing the core?

And as follow-on, is the balsa rotten or is it “merely” wet”? As I said, I say 
that because I’m wondering how much of the deck fiberglass I can expect to cut 
out and replace. I’m prepared for the worst...

Your observations would be welcome.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Apr 21, 2014, at 9:17 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

> Jimmy,
>  
> Thanks for the info based on your Bruckmann built Redline.  I will discuss 
> the hatch conversion idea with Calypso’s co-owner but I expect we will keep 
> the teak dorade boxes.  One of our goals is to keep the boat mostly looking 
> like it was when launched, just a little updated here and there.
>  
> > have you decided on deck treatment?<
>  
> I am planning to test Kiwi Grip (light gray) and EZPoxy 2 (color similar to 
> the original off white) on a cockpit hatch.  I will be testing for how the 
> paint applies with brush or roll/tip and how the Kiwi Grip looks/feels.  If 
> the light grey non-skid area looks out of place we will stick with the 
> existing all off white and use a custom color mix of Kiwi Grip or similar 
> non-skid coating.
>  
> The original teak foredeck hatch was converted to a A&H 36”x36” back in the 
> early 80’s.  The mid and head A&H hatches were original from 1970.  All three 
> opening A&H hatches were sent to Hammerhead for refirb.  I will report back 
> on how they look when the 90lbs of hatches and packaging arrive back next 
> week.
>  
> By the time we are finished over 200 holes in the deck will have been drilled 
> out and refilled with epoxy.  Some work days we have found more old holes 
> that were painted over than we filled.  Must be each past owner moved deck 
> hardware around several times.  Most of the old polyester based filler 
> (“bondo”) is failing and allows water to seep by.  All deck hardware is being 
> removed to inspect for water intrusion.  Most areas checked so far have some 
> amount of wet or damaged core.  We are getting faster at repairing and 
> sealing the areas.  High load areas will be rebuilt with epoxy and glass so 
> no further water damage will occur.
>  
> The interior will be sanded or stripped (it is painted Herreshoff style, 
> white with teak trim) then repainted with white Brightside.  If time allows 
> we will rebuilt the “stick built” sole supports.  After decades of racing and 
> cruising, crew weight upon the floorboards causes enough creaking to be quite 
> annoying when someone does a middle of the night anchor check.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jimmy Kelly
> Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 5:47 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List dorade box fastening
>  
> have 1968 redline 41 by bruckmann mfgremoved dorades..,back in early 
> 80swere fastened from below as well as from inside boxes...also 
> glassedwithin boxwere not designed to be removed..had to have 
> yard  ..cut them off...instead of new dorades went with aluminium  14 by 8 
> inch hatches...alternated which way openedone of best changes 
> madeespecially when in hot climates30 yrs later..lewmar hatches still 
> in great shapealso less teak to maintain...with way yard installed 
> hatches ...  length wise parallel to boat centerlineat least 2 can be 
> open depending on direction of wave spray...have really worked wellalso 
> look great...not what had in mind when project started...later replaced teak 
> hatches with lewmar aluminium hatches..no more leaks when teak wood dried out 
> in hot summer sun.good luck on your projecthave you decided on deck 
> treatment?
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Re: Stus-List Untie the lines

[Dave Godwin]

I’ve been following her progress on a weekly basis. I admire her spirit and 
honesty. Big, big job to take on and she has been really honest about what’s 
going on and how she is dealing with it. She has some skilz with video and 
editing which makes it an nice video blog to follow.

I really pulling for her to keep going.

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:46 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard  wrote:

> Hey, have you guys been following Nike's blog (Pronounced Neeka) called 
> "Untie the Lines"  on YouTube? 
> 
>  https://www.youtube.com/user/WhiteSpotPirates
> 
> This is another video blog about someone whom went for it.  This nice young 
> German lady sold a bunch of stuff, moved out of the land lubbers house and 
> bought a boat to explore the globe.  She's really fun and inspiring to watch. 
>  She bought this somewhat derelict Henke Super 10 in Panama and going through 
> a MAJOR refit.  Everything on the boat was a major project. 
> 
> I'm talking EVERYTHING.  Doing the bottom job she found several corrosion 
> holes in the "Aluminium"  yep they had to do some pretty major welding to 
> patch the holes..  The mold growing on the teak in the cabin looked like 
> Bonsai trees growing out of the cabinets.  (Makes me itch just typing this 
> ..)  
> 
> Anyway, the videos are nicely edited (No shaky teenage phone cam crap here) 
> and great to watch.  She's an impressive (And attractive) 32 year old young 
> lady.
> 
> Check it out.  
> 
> -Francois
> 1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
> 
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Re: Stus-List Battery options

[Dave Godwin]

It's rung down the curtain and joined the choir invisible.

On Apr 30, 2014, at 12:32 AM, Jim Watts  wrote:

> It's just sleeping. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
> On 29 April 2014 17:58, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> Charlie,
> 
>  
> 
> I would pronounce the battery dead at that voltage.   Anything below 11.95 is 
> pretty useless.  Have you tried charging it?  Dumb question, I know.
> 
>  
> 
> Jake
> 
>  
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> 
> “Midnight Mistress”
> 
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> 
> Hampton Va
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> cenel...@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 8:56 AM
> To: kenhea...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery options
> 
>  
> 
> No plans for offshore racing at present but I get the point; also another 60 
> lbs is 'chump change' considering my 13,600 lbs displacement.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks for all the suggestions--plus my Lifeline AGM measured 11.17 volts 
> this AM (off the boat). Could this mean that it is not really dead?
> 
>  
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 
>  
> 
> cenel...@aol.com
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Progress

[Dave Godwin]

Nice work. And lots of it judging from the photo's. Harry, I'm curious, are you 
doing the painting yourself? I'm planning on doing the same to my boat after 
restarting the restoration process this Spring.

Dave
"Ronin" - 1982 C&C 37
Chesapeake Bay

On Jan 1, 2013, at 7:42 AM, Harry wrote: 

> Mirage is getting ready for gloss on the deck.  I should have it all masked 
> today, with the exception of the forward hatch which is still being repaired.
>  
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/
>  
> Harry
> MIRAGE
> Northeast 39
> Newport, RI
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Re: Stus-List Non skid, C&C 39

[Dave Godwin]

Harry,

I'm planning on using Awlcraft 2000 Cloud White for my topsides. I'd be 
interested in knowing the 10% flattening decision.

Best,
Dave
"Ronin" - 1982 C&C 37

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 6, 2013, at 8:33, Harry  wrote:

> Craig,
> The deck color scheme will be:
>  
> Awlcraft
> Gloss: Cloud white (flattened 10%)
> NS: Chevy white (flattened 50+%)
>  
> Harry
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of craig 
> montague
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 6:54 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Non skid, C&C 39
>  
> Harry ,
> what NS. well you be going with.
>  
> Craig
> C&C34r
> Port Townsend, Wa.
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Re: Stus-List Non skid, C&C 39

[Dave Godwin]

Thanks Harry. I'm a total noob as far as painting the boat goes. I was just 
assuming that I'd be shooting it as it came out of the can. Thanks for that and 
I think I'll take the advice.

Dave

On Jan 6, 2013, at 4:30 PM, Harry wrote:

> Dave,
> I was advised to flatten the deck gloss just a slight amount to reduce glare. 
>  I think you want your topside as shiny as possible.
>  
> Harry
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 8:53 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Non skid, C&C 39
>  
> Harry,
>  
> I'm planning on using Awlcraft 2000 Cloud White for my topsides. I'd be 
> interested in knowing the 10% flattening decision.
>  
> Best,
> Dave
> "Ronin" - 1982 C&C 37
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Jan 6, 2013, at 8:33, Harry  wrote:
> 
>> Craig,
>> The deck color scheme will be:
>>  
>> Awlcraft
>> Gloss: Cloud white (flattened 10%)
>> NS: Chevy white (flattened 50+%)
>>  
>> Harry
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of craig 
>> montague
>> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 6:54 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Non skid, C&C 39
>>  
>> Harry ,
>> what NS. well you be going with.
>>  
>> Craig
>> C&C34r
>> Port Townsend, Wa.
>> ___
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>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
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Stus-List What else, the C&C smile and keel-bolt corrosion...

[Dave Godwin]

So, I’ve been reading the threads on purchasing the older LF38 needing work 
versus the cost of buying one in great shape and the other threads about buying 
a 35-3 with the infamous C&C smile and all the while wondering about what I may 
find this summer when I pull my boat and inspect the keel.

Our boat has same issue. I’ve been aware of it and have been waiting for the 
time when the mast comes out so that I can access the forward keel bolt. I’m 
getting back to a delayed full refit and anticipate an entire spring, summer 
and fall in the boatyard during which time I'm planning on lifting the hull off 
the keel.

My question to the list member is this: have any of you done this and found 
corrosion damage to the keel bolts? 

It’s keeping me awake at night…

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List What else, the C&C smile and keel-bolt corrosion...

[Dave Godwin]

Joe,

Thanks. I have the same issue in the bilge and will do as you did. However, I 
have rust seeping from the crack in the hull/keel joint forward. Not good. In 
my usual sunny, optimistic way I'm expecting to see something like that found 
in the second photo in the link:

http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Crevice.aspx

Dave
1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 17, 2013, at 11:36, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> The washer plates under the nuts were badly corroded on my boat. I replaced 
> them with stainless steel ones and have had no more issues. The bolts 
> themselves looked  fine, but I am not sure how easy it is to tell visually.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> C&C 35 MK I
> Coquina
> 1973-2013 40 years old!
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 11:32 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List What else, the C&C smile and keel-bolt corrosion...
> 
> So, I’ve been reading the threads on purchasing the older LF38 needing work 
> versus the cost of buying one in great shape and the other threads about 
> buying a 35-3 with the infamous C&C smile and all the while wondering about 
> what I may find this summer when I pull my boat and inspect the keel.
> 
> Our boat has same issue. I’ve been aware of it and have been waiting for the 
> time when the mast comes out so that I can access the forward keel bolt. I’m 
> getting back to a delayed full refit and anticipate an entire spring, summer 
> and fall in the boatyard during which time I'm planning on lifting the hull 
> off the keel.
> 
> My question to the list member is this: have any of you done this and found 
> corrosion damage to the keel bolts? 
> 
> It’s keeping me awake at night…
> 
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List What else, the C&C smile and keel-bolt corrosion...

[Dave Godwin]

Jake,
 
Thanks for the reply. That’s comforting, believe me. When you say the “forward 
keel bolt was leaking” can I take that to mean that you had salt-water 
intrusion into your bilge? A this time that isn’t the case with Ronin. Just 
plenty of freshwater from above I’m afraid…
 
Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”
Reedville, VA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 17, 2013, at 6:43 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

> Dave,
> 
> I had no noticeable corrosion on my keel bolts after over twenty years in 
> salt water.  The forward keel bolt was leaking and had a lot of stagnant 
> water trapped (black, smelly stuff).  All the bolts looked great.  I did 
> replace the washers under the keel bolts.  The original spacers had corroded. 
>  I think they were aluminum...
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Midnight Mistress
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 11:32 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List What else, the C&C smile and keel-bolt corrosion...
> 
> So, I’ve been reading the threads on purchasing the older LF38 needing work 
> versus the cost of buying one in great shape and the other threads about 
> buying a 35-3 with the infamous C&C smile and all the while wondering about 
> what I may find this summer when I pull my boat and inspect the keel.
> 
> Our boat has same issue. I’ve been aware of it and have been waiting for the 
> time when the mast comes out so that I can access the forward keel bolt. I’m 
> getting back to a delayed full refit and anticipate an entire spring, summer 
> and fall in the boatyard during which time I'm planning on lifting the hull 
> off the keel.
> 
> My question to the list member is this: have any of you done this and found 
> corrosion damage to the keel bolts? 
> 
> It’s keeping me awake at night…
> 
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List What else, the C&C smile and keel-bolt corrosion...

[Dave Godwin]

Hey Wal, thanks for that. Yeah, I’ve perused your site over the years. And 
unfortunately for my bank account I have taken on a refit project that is about 
50% the scale of yours…
 
I would say that my keel/hull joint condition approximates yours as it 
originally looked when you first pulled your boat. But Ronin’s been that way 
for some time and sits at my dock all year long. Sooo, I’m bracing for a keel 
bolt repair but hoping that you and Jake's experience are repeated for me. The 
“good” news is that if the keel does needs to be shipped off to Mars for repair 
I can “save” most of the shipping costs by dragging it to Canada myself. Large 
truck, 16,000 lb flatbed trailer and such.
 
On another note related to the keel, I have the same issue with the wood 
core/limber hole drains that you did and am planning on tackling that issue 
similar to the way you did, sometime this summer. Probably use fiberglass 
tubing instead of the thru-hulls you used. Same, same though...
 
Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”
Reedville, VA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 18, 2013, at 1:01 PM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> You can see some pics of my bolts during the keel rebedding: 
> <http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/hauls/0811/index.htm> I definitely had 
> salt water intrusion -- 1/4" salt crystals under the cabin sole around the 
> bolts. Also, the bolt under the mast goes through a sealed 'crash bulkhead' 
> that was flooded. Checking the bolt integrity was the main reason for 
> dropping the keel.
> 
> The bolts were in perfect shape. Whew. I don't know how long it actually 
> takes for destructive crevice corrosion in salt water, but have a feeling it 
> depends on the quality of the stainless steel.
> 
> Wal
> 
> Dave Godwin wrote:
>> That’s comforting, believe me. When you say the “forward keel bolt was 
>> leaking” can I take that to mean that you had salt-water intrusion into your 
>> bilge?
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Update

[Dave Godwin]

Beautiful.  I'm envious and can't wait to see some photos after it cures and 
the plastic comes off. I hope that when I'm done doing the same it looks as 
nice.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - "Ronin"

 
On Jan 22, 2013, at 6:59 PM, Harry wrote:

> The deck gloss was applied today.
>  
> Awlgrip Cloud White, 10% flattened
>  
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/detail/
>  
> Harry
> MIRAGE
> Northeast 39
> Newport, RI
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Poly Navicular Morbus – too many boats disease – group confessional session « Keep Turning Left

[Dave Godwin]

Yes, it is possible to have too many boats if they are in a state of constant 
rebuild...

5 @ 103'. Which right now is four too many. ;-)

Cheers,
Dave
C&C 37, Mako 26 CC, Snipe, Butler crab skiff and the Wonder Dinghy!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 31, 2013, at 9:27 AM, Andrew Burton  wrote:

> 5 boats for 107 feet, here. Just about right, I think. Is it really possible 
> to own too many boats?
> Andy 
> C&C 40 
> Peregrine
> 
> On Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 9:01 AM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>> Only 108 feet here, but two new paddleboards on order will add to that.  
>> Glad I don't have to pay for the whole slip...
>> 
>> Tim
>> Mojito
>> C&C 35-3
>> Branford, CT
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 12:35 AM, Peter Deppisch 
>>  wrote:
>>> I am at 131 feet.  :)
>>> http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/blogs/poly-navicular-morbus-too-many-boats-disease/
>>> And I will have to check and see if I forgot any.
>>> Cheers,
>>> Peter
>>> S/V Tangerine
>>> C&C35 MK II
>>> Lion's Head, Ontario
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Poly Navicular Morbus – too many boats disease – group confessional session « Keep Turning Left

[Dave Godwin]

A. Burton: "I think that's just a case of too little time, rather than too many 
boats. : )"

Hah, both of you are quite correct in your sharp observations!

Cheers,
Dave

On Jan 31, 2013, at 9:47 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> "state of constant rebuild" Is there another state?
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 9:44 AM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
>> Yes, it is possible to have too many boats if they are in a state of 
>> constant rebuild...
>> 
>> 5 @ 103'. Which right now is four too many. ;-)
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Dave
>> C&C 37, Mako 26 CC, Snipe, Butler crab skiff and the Wonder Dinghy!
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Jan 31, 2013, at 9:27 AM, Andrew Burton  wrote:
>> 
>>> 5 boats for 107 feet, here. Just about right, I think. Is it really 
>>> possible to own too many boats?
>>> Andy 
>>> C&C 40 
>>> Peregrine
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 9:01 AM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>>>> Only 108 feet here, but two new paddleboards on order will add to that.  
>>>> Glad I don't have to pay for the whole slip...
>>>> 
>>>> Tim
>>>> Mojito
>>>> C&C 35-3
>>>> Branford, CT
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2013 at 12:35 AM, Peter Deppisch 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>>> I am at 131 feet.  :)
>>>>> http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/blogs/poly-navicular-morbus-too-many-boats-disease/
>>>>> And I will have to check and see if I forgot any.
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>> Peter
>>>>> S/V Tangerine
>>>>> C&C35 MK II
>>>>> Lion's Head, Ontario
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ___
>>>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Andrew Burton
>>> 61 W Narragansett Ave
>>> Newport, RI
>>> USA 02840
>>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>>> phone  +401 965 5260
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Dave Godwin]

Dave,

I redid all my original floorboards on my boat about 13 years ago. I did it 
exactly the way that Graham describes. Hopefully to add a bit more, I used the 
better part of two full sheets of teak/holly plywood. I put two coats of West 
epoxy on first to seal everything (it didn't…) and then started applying coat 
after coat of varnish (gloss, will probably go with satin next time) until I 
had about 10-12 coats total. I did all of this before the cuts.

After making the cutouts for access to the bilge I routed out both sides back 
and used lengths of solid teak, ripped to 1/4 width, 3/4 height to face each 
side of raw plywood. Glue and tacked. Makes a nice finishing touch.

I can provide pictures if you'd like

Unfortunately, because of flooding and general humidity/wet bilge I have to 
redo this project…

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - "Ronin"

On Feb 1, 2013, at 6:24 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Great idea!
> 
> Joel
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Feb 1, 2013, at 6:15 PM, Graham Collins  wrote:
> 
>> I pulled mine, used them as templates.  Where the underside has an angled 
>> cut I used a 45 degree angled bit in the router.  2 full sheets.
>> 
>> On mine the sole doesn't run under the settee, the only piece that may be 
>> pinned in place was a small piece that is around the mast   step base.
>> 
>> Tip - rough cut the new pieces to size, screw the old pieces onto the new 
>> using the original screw holes (which establishes where the screw holes need 
>> to be) and trim to size using a trimming bit with bearing in the router.
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2013-02-01 9:28 AM, chef2s...@aol.com wrote:
>>> I am thinking of pulling up the sole and redoing.  I have already searched 
>>> out the flooring and want to begin the process of removing the present sole 
>>> in its pieces so they can be used to "template" the cuts for the new sole. 
>>> On Haleakula they are screwed down in most spots by casual observation.
>>>  
>>> Has anyone done this project? How far under the port settee does the sole 
>>> run? What tricks/ tips could you give me before I start this?
>>>  
>>> Dave
>>>  
>>> S/V Haleakula
>>> C&C MKIII # 76
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Stus-List Boat surface area estimating

[Dave Godwin]

Folks,
 
I, as math idiot, I have a question for those a lot smarter than me or better, 
who may have done something like I am planning to do. I’m in the process of 
doing my budget for finishing off my refit of my 1982 C&C 37 and a large part 
of that will include the cost of materials for a complete paint job. Topsides 
and hull. In all likelihood I’ll be using AwlCraft 2000 topcoats and the 
associated primers as needed although that’s not really relevant to my query.
 
Here are my questions:
Has anyone painted a boat this size or thereabouts and if so, any ideas on the 
amount of paint required? Or better, does anyone know of a calculator, 
preferably online that will allow me to total up the general surface areas of 
the boat?
 
I have the Product Data Sheets and they list AwlCraft 2000 Acrylic Urethane as 
1 gallon covering ~230 sq. ft. for recommended dry film thickness (3+ coats). 
I’m planning on spraying, not roll-and-tip.
 
Cheers,
Dave1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”

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Re: Stus-List Electrical panel - Blue Sea labels

[Dave Godwin]

Andrew, the panels are not Blue Sea. I replaced mine with BS panels as part of 
the rewiring project but in the years prior I just bought good quality new 
labels and replaced the originals. Just a thought.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 7, 2013, at 1:38 PM, Andrew Burton  wrote:

> Thanks, Martin, that would be great. I don't think the panel is Blue Sea, 
> unless that was what was used in the early 80s.
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> Newport, RI
> 
> 
> On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Martin DeYoung  
> wrote:
>> If the panel is a Blue Sea product I have several packages of labels left 
>> over from replacing Calypso’s panels.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Do you want me to send an image of the labels to your non cnc-list email?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Martin
>> 
>> Calypso
>> 
>> 1970 C&C 43
>> 
>> Seattle
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
>> Risch
>> Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2013 8:26 AM
>> To: CNC CNC
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Andrew,
>> 
>> Check Blue Sea...assuming we have the same panel.
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Boat surface area estimating

[Dave Godwin]

Dennis, Chris and Joel,

Thanks for the input. Very helpful to get some feedback on what others have 
done or experienced. I found the brochure for my boat on Stu's site, did some 
really nasty measurements, found some square footage calculators online and 
calculated the following:

Topsides - 237 + 5% = 249 sq/ft
Hull: stern and (side x2) - 324 + 5% = 340 sq/ft

To be safe that gives me, based on AksoNobel's spec sheets, the following:

Topsides will require 1 gallon and 1 quart for 286 sq/ft of coverage. 
Hull will require 1 gallon and 2 quarts for 342 sq/ft of coverage

That said, the amounts that you guys have noted are a good bit less than what I 
seem to require. I know the 37 is larger volumetrically but I can't image that 
it is so much that where one gallon with leftover covered your boats and I need 
2 gallons.

I'm going to need to chew on this one.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - "Ronin"

On Feb 7, 2013, at 4:57 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

> I had Touché spray painted with Awlcraft 2000 2 years ago. I think the 
> painter just ordered 1 gallon. He did have to spray 3 coats of high build 
> primer. 
> 
> I sanded the sides with a Hutchins sander prior to the primer. Highly 
> recommend this step. Took out all blemishes and post cure shrinkage pattern 
> in the top sides.  Top sides are very smooth with no roving pattern, 
> blemishes, dings, etc. 
> 
> Dennis C. 
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Feb 7, 2013, at 11:12 AM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> 
>> Folks,
>>  
>> I, as math idiot, I have a question for those a lot smarter than me or 
>> better, who may have done something like I am planning to do. I’m in the 
>> process of doing my budget for finishing off my refit of my 1982 C&C 37 and 
>> a large part of that will include the cost of materials for a complete paint 
>> job. Topsides and hull. In all likelihood I’ll be using AwlCraft 2000 
>> topcoats and the associated primers as needed although that’s not really 
>> relevant to my query.
>>  
>> Here are my questions:
>> Has anyone painted a boat this size or thereabouts and if so, any ideas on 
>> the amount of paint required? Or better, does anyone know of a calculator, 
>> preferably online that will allow me to total up the general surface areas 
>> of the boat?
>>  
>> I have the Product Data Sheets and they list AwlCraft 2000 Acrylic Urethane 
>> as 1 gallon covering ~230 sq. ft. for recommended dry film thickness (3+ 
>> coats). I’m planning on spraying, not roll-and-tip.
>>  
>> Cheers,
>> Dave1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Boat surface area estimating

[Dave Godwin]

Chris, 

Yes. Hull will be painted Jade Mist Green and after lifting off all hardware 
with the exception of the toenail I'm going to spay the entire deck with Cloud 
White. I assumed that you were referring to just your hull. A Flag Blue topside 
would be interesting, eh?  ;-)

Dave

On Feb 7, 2013, at 6:53 PM, Chris Price wrote:

> Dave, when you say topsides, do you mean the deck? I painted the hull between 
> the waterline and the sheer line only.
> 
> Chris
> 
> From: "Dave Godwin" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2013 6:45:24 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat surface area estimating
> 
> Dennis, Chris and Joel,
> 
> Thanks for the input. Very helpful to get some feedback on what others have 
> done or experienced. I found the brochure for my boat on Stu's site, did some 
> really nasty measurements, found some square footage calculators online and 
> calculated the following:
> 
> Topsides - 237 + 5% = 249 sq/ft
> Hull: stern and (side x2) - 324 + 5% = 340 sq/ft
> 
> To be safe that gives me, based on AksoNobel's spec sheets, the following:
> 
> Topsides will require 1 gallon and 1 quart for 286 sq/ft of coverage. 
> Hull will require 1 gallon and 2 quarts for 342 sq/ft of coverage
> 
> That said, the amounts that you guys have noted are a good bit less than what 
> I seem to require. I know the 37 is larger volumetrically but I can't image 
> that it is so much that where one gallon with leftover covered your boats and 
> I need 2 gallons.
> 
> I'm going to need to chew on this one.
> 
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - "Ronin"
> 
> On Feb 7, 2013, at 4:57 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
> 
> I had Touché spray painted with Awlcraft 2000 2 years ago. I think the 
> painter just ordered 1 gallon. He did have to spray 3 coats of high build 
> primer. 
> 
> I sanded the sides with a Hutchins sander prior to the primer. Highly 
> recommend this step. Took out all blemishes and post cure shrinkage pattern 
> in the top sides.  Top sides are very smooth with no roving pattern, 
> blemishes, dings, etc. 
> 
> Dennis C. 
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Feb 7, 2013, at 11:12 AM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> 
> Folks,
>  
> I, as math idiot, I have a question for those a lot smarter than me or 
> better, who may have done something like I am planning to do. I’m in the 
> process of doing my budget for finishing off my refit of my 1982 C&C 37 and a 
> large part of that will include the cost of materials for a complete paint 
> job. Topsides and hull. In all likelihood I’ll be using AwlCraft 2000 
> topcoats and the associated primers as needed although that’s not really 
> relevant to my query.
>  
> Here are my questions:
> Has anyone painted a boat this size or thereabouts and if so, any ideas on 
> the amount of paint required? Or better, does anyone know of a calculator, 
> preferably online that will allow me to total up the general surface areas of 
> the boat?
>  
> I have the Product Data Sheets and they list AwlCraft 2000 Acrylic Urethane 
> as 1 gallon covering ~230 sq. ft. for recommended dry film thickness (3+ 
> coats). I’m planning on spraying, not roll-and-tip.
>  
> Cheers,
> Dave1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Boat surface area estimating

[Dave Godwin]

"A potential difference between the AksoNobel’s estimated coverage and the 
observed usage is the difference between professional spray (paint is thinned) 
and DIY roll and tip."

Indeed. I just went back to the application guide and for the final top coating 
they do reference both spraying and roll-and-tip. Nothing about expected usage 
amounts. It all is based on film thickness. Based on my limited spraying 
experience I'm inclined to think that the lesser amounts would work. But it 
would be hell if I got caught out short on paint. "for want of a nail…"

Best,
Dave

On Feb 7, 2013, at 7:00 PM, Martin DeYoung wrote:

> >> That said, the amounts that you guys have noted are a good bit less than 
> >> what I seem to require. I know the 37 is larger volumetrically but I can't 
> >> image that it is so much that where one gallon with leftover covered your 
> >> boats and I need 2 gallons.<<
>  
> A potential difference between the AksoNobel’s estimated coverage and the 
> observed usage is the difference between professional spray (paint is 
> thinned) and DIY roll and tip.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1970 C&C 43
> Seattle
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin
> Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2013 3:45 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat surface area estimating
>  
> Dennis, Chris and Joel,
>  
> Thanks for the input. Very helpful to get some feedback on what others have 
> done or experienced. I found the brochure for my boat on Stu's site, did some 
> really nasty measurements, found some square footage calculators online and 
> calculated the following:
>  
> Topsides - 237 + 5% = 249 sq/ft
> Hull: stern and (side x2) - 324 + 5% = 340 sq/ft
>  
> To be safe that gives me, based on AksoNobel's spec sheets, the following:
>  
> Topsides will require 1 gallon and 1 quart for 286 sq/ft of coverage. 
> Hull will require 1 gallon and 2 quarts for 342 sq/ft of coverage
>  
> That said, the amounts that you guys have noted are a good bit less than what 
> I seem to require. I know the 37 is larger volumetrically but I can't image 
> that it is so much that where one gallon with leftover covered your boats and 
> I need 2 gallons.
>  
> I'm going to need to chew on this one.
>  
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - "Ronin"
>  
> On Feb 7, 2013, at 4:57 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
> 
> 
> I had Touché spray painted with Awlcraft 2000 2 years ago. I think the 
> painter just ordered 1 gallon. He did have to spray 3 coats of high build 
> primer. 
>  
> I sanded the sides with a Hutchins sander prior to the primer. Highly 
> recommend this step. Took out all blemishes and post cure shrinkage pattern 
> in the top sides.  Top sides are very smooth with no roving pattern, 
> blemishes, dings, etc. 
>  
> Dennis C. 
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Feb 7, 2013, at 11:12 AM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> 
>> Folks,
>>  
>> I, as math idiot, I have a question for those a lot smarter than me or 
>> better, who may have done something like I am planning to do. I’m in the 
>> process of doing my budget for finishing off my refit of my 1982 C&C 37 and 
>> a large part of that will include the cost of materials for a complete paint 
>> job. Topsides and hull. In all likelihood I’ll be using AwlCraft 2000 
>> topcoats and the associated primers as needed although that’s not really 
>> relevant to my query.
>>  
>> Here are my questions:
>> Has anyone painted a boat this size or thereabouts and if so, any ideas on 
>> the amount of paint required? Or better, does anyone know of a calculator, 
>> preferably online that will allow me to total up the general surface areas 
>> of the boat?
>>  
>> I have the Product Data Sheets and they list AwlCraft 2000 Acrylic Urethane 
>> as 1 gallon covering ~230 sq. ft. for recommended dry film thickness (3+ 
>> coats). I’m planning on spraying, not roll-and-tip.
>>  
>> Cheers,
>> Dave1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”
>>  
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Boat surface area estimating

[Dave Godwin]

Doh. Makes sense. Top. Sides. Topsides….

Color me a little bit smarter. Not much but a bit.

Dave

On Feb 7, 2013, at 7:14 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

> Topsides is the area between the waterline ant the sheer.
> I lost 5 bucks on that definition many years ago, and have never forgotten.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris Price
> Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2013 6:54 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat surface area estimating
>  
> Dave, when you say topsides, do you mean the deck? I painted the hull between 
> the waterline and the sheer line only.
> 
> Chris
> 
> From: "Dave Godwin" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, February 7, 2013 6:45:24 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat surface area estimating
> 
> Dennis, Chris and Joel,
>  
> Thanks for the input. Very helpful to get some feedback on what others have 
> done or experienced. I found the brochure for my boat on Stu's site, did some 
> really nasty measurements, found some square footage calculators online and 
> calculated the following:
>  
> Topsides - 237 + 5% = 249 sq/ft
> Hull: stern and (side x2) - 324 + 5% = 340 sq/ft
>  
> To be safe that gives me, based on AksoNobel's spec sheets, the following:
>  
> Topsides will require 1 gallon and 1 quart for 286 sq/ft of coverage. 
> Hull will require 1 gallon and 2 quarts for 342 sq/ft of coverage
>  
> That said, the amounts that you guys have noted are a good bit less than what 
> I seem to require. I know the 37 is larger volumetrically but I can't image 
> that it is so much that where one gallon with leftover covered your boats and 
> I need 2 gallons.
>  
> I'm going to need to chew on this one.
>  
> Best,
> Dave
> 1982 C&C 37 - "Ronin"
>  
> On Feb 7, 2013, at 4:57 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
>  
> I had Touché spray painted with Awlcraft 2000 2 years ago. I think the 
> painter just ordered 1 gallon. He did have to spray 3 coats of high build 
> primer. 
>  
> I sanded the sides with a Hutchins sander prior to the primer. Highly 
> recommend this step. Took out all blemishes and post cure shrinkage pattern 
> in the top sides.  Top sides are very smooth with no roving pattern, 
> blemishes, dings, etc. 
>  
> Dennis C. 
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Feb 7, 2013, at 11:12 AM, Dave Godwin  wrote:
> 
> Folks,
>  
> I, as math idiot, I have a question for those a lot smarter than me or 
> better, who may have done something like I am planning to do. I’m in the 
> process of doing my budget for finishing off my refit of my 1982 C&C 37 and a 
> large part of that will include the cost of materials for a complete paint 
> job. Topsides and hull. In all likelihood I’ll be using AwlCraft 2000 
> topcoats and the associated primers as needed although that’s not really 
> relevant to my query.
>  
> Here are my questions:
> Has anyone painted a boat this size or thereabouts and if so, any ideas on 
> the amount of paint required? Or better, does anyone know of a calculator, 
> preferably online that will allow me to total up the general surface areas of 
> the boat?
>  
> I have the Product Data Sheets and they list AwlCraft 2000 Acrylic Urethane 
> as 1 gallon covering ~230 sq. ft. for recommended dry film thickness (3+ 
> coats). I’m planning on spraying, not roll-and-tip.
>  
> Cheers,
> Dave1982 C&C 37 – “Ronin”
>  
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> 
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Re: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?

[Dave Godwin]

Joel,

Give Frigoboat a look while your at it. I've got their keel-cooler system. It's 
only partially installed at the moment but a buddy of mine with Beneteau swears 
by them. Very energy efficient and keeps the seawater out of the system. I'm 
setting up a spillover freezer/refrigerator system with a thermostatically 
controlled fan.

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 17, 2013, at 11:07, "Dennis C."  wrote:

> Joel,
> 
> Is current draw a big concern for you?  If so, you might take a peek at the 
> Technautics Cool Blue.  Supposedly claims to have the lowest current draw.  
> Unfortunately, they're a bit more pricey than either unit you're looking at.  
> You deal directly with the guy that builds them.
> 
> My colleague on the bayou has been installing them for a couple years now.  
> Owners seem to be very pleased.
> 
> I still like the Isotherm with ASU, cold plate, etc. and thru hull cooler.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> From: Joel Aronson 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2013 9:49 AM
> Subject: Stus-List refrigeration - icemaker?
> 
> I'm looking at adding refrigeration to my ice box.  I'm down to 2
> choices - An Isotherm with a Danfoss 50 compressor and a flat cold
> plate or an Adler Barbour with the same compressor but with a plate
> that forms a small freezer/icemaker section (15 x 12 x 6 inches).  The
> A/B is about $500 more.  Do you make ice?  If you can't, do you wish
> you could?
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Used boat prices

[Dave Godwin]

"Edited to add: What Dwight said..."

As regards the ongoing discussion on boat value and expenses I’ll give you my 
case on what we have into our boat in relation to its value to my wife and me. 
I’m sure that we’re not alone in this.
 
We bought “Ronin” 16 years ago as a decrepit bank-repo. Since then we have put 
large amounts of money and time (mine…) into her. Serious money. I know because 
I am one of those fools who keep detailed records of their expenditures. I do 
this primarily to be able to budget for future upgrades or repairs. The 
knock-on effect is to have a year-by-year record of costs.
 
Those costs are lost. The boat now, with major upgrades would probably sell for 
only twice what we paid for it. And there’s always the issue of inflation so in 
reality the value is even less.
 
But even though the aggregate amount is staggering in its total,when spread out 
over those 16 years the yearly average isactually quite moderate. Yes, there 
were some years in the beginning due to the rig and motor needing to be rebuilt 
along with adding new sails and roller-furling when the yearly total was more 
than the original cost of the boat. But there have been years when the 
repair/replacement costs were fairly low. The recent years have cost us nothing 
but that is because the boat is decommissioned and the downside is that we get 
none of the value of actually using the boat. But we are lucky enough to have 
free, and I use that term with tongue firmly in cheek, slipfees because we have 
our own dock so that goes a long way towards reducing the heartburn.
 
Anyway the reason we continue to put money and time into our boat is that we 
derive a great deal of pleasure from her. The upgrades that have been done and 
are yet to be done will make the boat nicer and easier to use. I have long 
gotten over the 2-footitist desire for something larger, shiner and newer. Both 
my wife and I are perfectly happy with the looks, size and effort(not) required 
to sail her.
 
I plan on finishing repairing/upgrading the deck and adding new hardware, 
painting the deck and hull, and installing electrical, electronic and interior 
items, all that fortunately already residing in my shed. And after all that is 
done I feel that we will have a good boat that looks nice, is safe and sound, 
easy to maintain that will be of use to us for the next 10 years. I have plans 
to spend a winter in the Bahamas on her.
 
So, yeah, from a financial perspective it doesn’t make sense. My financial 
advisor* runs screaming out of the room with his hands over ears whenever I 
start to talk about the money we’ve spent.But we really don’t care about the 
money in the end. It’s our cost to do what we like to do. Hell, I even enjoy 
working on the boat. Go figure.
 
Cheers,
Dave
 
* Not really. He started out sailing by crewing for me and now has a nice, 
low-cost, cheap-to-maintain Cal 34. :-)
 
 

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 20, 2013, at 10:06 AM, dwight veinot  
wrote:

> Fun can be expensive…sailing is fun
>  
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
> Barba, Joe
> Sent: February 20, 2013 10:59 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Used boat prices
>  
> If I had only known. I was 6 years old in 1969.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina.
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
> veinot
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 9:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Used boat prices
>  
> Should have bought 2 houses, sell one now and buy a boat…$500K goes a long 
> way in today’s boat market
>  
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
> Barba, Joe
> Sent: February 20, 2013 9:53 AM
> To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Used boat prices
>  
> My house cost $34,000 when we moved to Maryland and we paid $35,000 for 
> Coquina in 1977. For ages her insured value was $55,000.  I have paid the 
> marina $36,000 or so for a slip since 2001 (arg).
> *that house now is worth over $500K.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 8:46 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Used boat prices
>  
> I paid $10 (yep, ten dollars) less for Touche' in 1999 than it cost new in 
> 1971.  Somewhere in the early 80's, the previous owner had secured a $62K 
> mortgage on it.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 12:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Used boat prices
>  
> To depress everyone more – we paid more for Coquina than we paid for our 
> house AND she *appreciated* in value over the next few years quite a bit.
> 

Re: Stus-List Considering a New Genoa

[Dave Godwin]

I'm interested in this discussion and other's thoughts and experiences also. We 
currently have a laminate 140% for our boat that we've used for years but we 
often sailed/cruised with our old racing crewmates so dragging that across the 
decks was not a big deal. Now that my wife and I cruise by ourselves we're 
considering a 98% to 110% at most. Our rational is similar, no longer in race 
mode, cruising in light is fine by us as we relax and don't worry about how 
much speed is lost. Which isn't the same as not trying to get the max out of 
the sail, right? 

Dave
1982 C&C 37 "Ronin"

On Feb 24, 2013, at 11:27 AM, Andrew Burton wrote:

> Just curious why you'd want such a huge sail, Edd. Your boat is so 
> easily-driven, I would have thought you could easily make do with a 
> 135...even in the vacuum called Long Island Sound. I'm thinking/hoping that I 
> may be able to make do with a 110 here in Newport. We are just talking about 
> cruising, after all. The journey is the destination.
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> On Sun, Feb 24, 2013 at 11:19 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
> I've got a rolly 135. So far can't beat it!
> 
> Joel Aronson
> 
> 
> On Feb 24, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
> > All,
> >
> > I'm in the market for a new cruising 150-155% genoa for my C&C 37+. I've 
> > received some quotes from North and Quantum, but wanted to know if anyone 
> > on the list has had any experience, good or bad, with one of the "discount" 
> > sailmakers out there like FX, National, Far East, etc.
> >
> > I don't do much racing aside from the Wednesday night beer cans in my area, 
> > and even that is winding down due to difficulty with crew scheduling. So 
> > I'm thinking more of an all-purpose Dacron.
> >
> > So far, Quantum beats North by a lot. But I can probably save even another 
> > $1,000 going with one of those discount guys.
> >
> > Any thoughts?
> >
> >
> > All the best,
> >
> > Edd
> >
> > ---
> > Edd M. Schillay
> > Starship Enterprise
> > NCC-1701-B
> > C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> > ---
> > 914.332.4400  | Office
> > 914.332.1671  | Fax
> > 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> > ---
> > Sent via iPhone 5
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260 ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Rob Ball Gift

[Dave Godwin]

Thread hijack: I have one of our boat that "that person" atTrident Studio made. 
Pretty sure the mold is still available….

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - "Ronin"


On Feb 25, 2013, at 4:15 PM, Ronald B. Frerker wrote:

> Andrew, could you get me in contact with that person?  I've thought about a 
> half model of my C&C 30 mk 1, but don't know who to contact or the 
> approximate price.
> Thanks
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> STL
> 
> 
> --- On Mon, 2/25/13, Andrew Burton  wrote:
> 
> From: Andrew Burton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob Ball Gift
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Monday, February 25, 2013, 10:31 AM
> 
> I implied but wasn't clear that it would be free.
> 
> On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 11:30 AM, Andrew Burton  
> wrote:
> Dave, 
> 
> I know a local model maker who is a C&C owner who will contribute a model of 
> a 35 Mk III for Rob. 
> This is a 27, but it gives you the idea. Let me know when you need it.
> 
> 
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> On Mon, Feb 25, 2013 at 11:25 AM, David Risch  wrote:
> All,
> 
> I had a discussion with Rob Ball and it seems his half-hull model collection 
> has a gap.   He is missing the C & C 35-III.   Any interest in we all 
> contributing to get this to him?
> 
> I do not know the logistics of how we do this, but there is a local model 
> builder who is willing to do this and he mentioned he might discount it for 
> Rob.
> 
> Any interest out there?
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> 
> -Inline Attachment Follows-
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: C&C 38 Landfall on ebay

[Dave Godwin]

Joe,

That boat's just down the road from you. You should go take a look. Although we 
all know that small on-line photos which can make a rotten old log-canoe look 
like like a new AC Cup boat, it is an intriguing sell. And we know too that 
older electronics have no currency but still, there's a fair amount of 
get-on-and-sail-away stuff associated with it. If I didn't have something that 
size already and weren't diametrically across the Bay from it I'd give it a 
look.

Dave
1982 C&C 37 - "Ronin"

On Mar 12, 2013, at 7:43 PM, Joe Della Barba wrote:

> I re-read the specs. The boat recently has at least $10K of electronics and
> at LEAST 10 more in sails and interior and they want 20?
> I am tempted so bad. 
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> j...@dellabarba.com
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails
> Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 6:02 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: C&C 38 Landfall on ebay
> 
> The LF 38 is a very unusual design, great, well proven, fast, IOR style hull
> with a cruiser's interior. The result seemed to me to be extremely tight
> quarters down below. some people love it, more hated it. I looked at 4 or 5
> of them when I was in the market and despite my best efforts, I fell into
> the hated it category. I like the interior layout of the original 38 much
> better, but it's not ideal either. The buy-it-now price is about $10K less
> than the boats I looked at, but none of those have sold so
> James
> Delaney
> C&C 38 MKII
> Oriental, NC
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "Rich Knowles" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 3:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: C&C 38 Landfall on ebay
> 
> 
>> I must say these low prices are disappointing, to say the least.
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Indigo. LF38
>> Halifax
>> 
>> On 2013-03-12, at 15:51, "Greg Sutherland "  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The Buy it now is $21500. Pretty great deal.
>> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Michael Dean 
>> Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2013 18:47:39
>> To: 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd:   C&C 38 Landfall on ebay
>> 
>> 
>> That is just an opening bid.  Seller has a hidden reserve price which has
>> not yet been met.
>> 
>> What it sells for, if it does sell on e-bay, will be higher than that
>> opening bid. Could be a great bargain or not depending on what the final 
>> bid
>> is and what the reserve is.  If the reserve isn't met, owner can still 
>> list
>> it through a broker or relist with a lower reserve.
>> 
>> If it were me, the reserve would be about the expected brokerage sell 
>> price
>> minus commission plus a bit for me.  Still interesting to watch.
>> 
>> Mike
>> C&C 27 Mk III
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee
>> Youngblood
>> Sent: March-12-13 2:14 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: C&C 38 Landfall on ebay
>> 
>> Why didn't he list it with a broker?  Looks like someone will get a deal. 
>> .
>> .
>> 
>> 
>>> Wow - what a price!  Nice boat
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>>> Richard N. Bush
>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 10:20 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Fwd: C&C 38 Landfall on ebay
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> There's a 1979 Landfall 38 on ebay;
>>> 
>>> >> ilboats&hash=item3a7f09a9de>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-C-C-Lan
>>> dfall38-/251239442910?pt=Sailboats&hash=item3a7f09a9de
>>> The info says its in Accomac, Virginia; anyone know anything about it?
>>> Any known or common "issues" with the 1979 model?
>>> 
>>> The owner's description goes into some length about leaking chainplates
>>> and deck core repairs; I would view this as a sign of caution?
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Richard
>>> 1987 33-II
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Lee Youngblood  (425) 444-9109
>> 
>> Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker
>> 
>> Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
>> Office @ Dockside Solutions
>> 7001 Seaview Avenue #160
>> Seattle, WA 98117
>> New Office Phone (206) 707-1778
>> 
>> GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> 
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> 
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