Dave,
I just sent a pic of what I have to your email. I do have a schaefer 71-61 that
has never been mounted or used. I also have a 71-42 double (the smaller one).
It came out of a bag of old parts that were part of the schaefer boat show
booth. My brother set up and run their booth at a lot of
Dave,
I may have a couple of those in an old parts bag, let me check tomorrow when I
get home. If they are a match, you are welcome to them. They have never been
used or mounted. Contact me directly and I’ll let you know.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk2
Oriental, NC
From: Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: Su
I looked around my marina and we have a 30-1 named “Sayuri”, 1973 number 135. I
don’t know who owns it, never seen anyone on it, but it’s at the opposite end
of the marina from me.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 mk 2
Oriental, NC
From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2016 4:26 P
Rick,
My advice is to keep in mind that a racing sail is a racing sail and a cruising
sail is a cruising sail. Anything in between is a compromise and won’t be
outstanding for either! I’m really happy with my 125% cross cut cruising sail,
if I did it again, I would go even smaller (especially if
Rick,
All of the sails on my boat have been made by Scott Allen in Annapolis. Scott
has been associated with several brands over the years, even going independent
for a while, but all of my sails are UK’s. I love the 120% dacron jib they made
for me last year. I’m not sure how old my 2+2 dacron
Ryan,
The experts at Moyer recommend 4 ga for runs of up to 20 ft. so I would be
very comfortable with that.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC
-Original Message-
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2016 9:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Re:
Ryan,
The purpose of the fuse on the battery terminal is to protect the wire (and
switches, etc) that runs from the battery to the panel. This fuse should be
sized appropriately by the wire size. For example, My house bank uses 6 ga
wire to feed the panel, so I have a 100 amp fuse on it. No mat
Gene,
When you are installing the intake flap valve assembly (part #9), it must be
installed the correct way. Look at this link.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=5096.0
James
Delaney
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC
From: Eugene Fodor via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2016 4:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc
Ray,
I replaced the original framed portlights on my 1976 C&C 38 with Lewmar opening
portlights. It was actually a fairly easy job although I did have to enlarge
the openings slightly. I used a jigsaw and a “glasfab” blade. I really like
having to ability to open the ports when I’m anchored out!
Dave,
That’s very interesting. My awlgrip (Stars and Stripes blue) looks pretty
sad. Can you give me any info on what you did?
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk2
Oriental NC
From: David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 1:06 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re:
Same here on my 38. Love the VPC for halyards, low stretch, nice hand, easier
on the wallet!
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk 2
Oriental, NC
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2016 3:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Main Sail Halyard
I went
Dan,
My bad, better make that 50’ of 1/2” trophy braid!!!
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk 11
Oriental, NC
From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 12:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet size
I've got 5/8 sheets on a 145% jib on my Landfal
Dan,
I went with 1/2” Samson Trophy Braid for my boat. Used 41’ per side but you
might want a foot or two more for a 145%. I really like the “hand” of the
trophy braid.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC
From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 12:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-
I replaced the whole fixture with one of these. Eco Series LED Combo: Deck and
Masthead Steaming Navigation Light Fixture . I am really happy with it, the
foredeck light actually lights up the foredeck (unlike the original).
James
Delaney
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC
From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List
Se
Fred,
On my 38 Mk2, I opted for a 120% headsail with no foam. The smaller sail is
easier to handle and still moves the boat very well. Plus, I rarely feel
overpowered. Your boat is the same hull as mine, but your mast is a couple of
feet shorter, so I would probably go about 125%. Even at 120%,
Joe,
I would recommend that you take a look at the forums at www.moyermarine.com.
You will find lots of discussion about the best prop for the direct drive
A4. Short answer is that 11.5x8 looks like too much pitch to me.
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38 (with A4)
Oriental, NC
-Original Message---
Paul,
It is probably a “Fuller Brush Company” portlight. Not sure how a cleaning
products company got into making portlights, but they are still in business and
parts are available. My 1976 ‘38 had two of them, one I replaced with a Lewmar
(the one in the cockpit) and one that I still have (in t
On the 38, we need pieces over 6’ in length (if you want to follow the original
pattern). UPS won’t ship sheets in that length and Mcmaster doesn’t sell it
that long without freight shipping charges.
James Taylor
Delaney
C&C 38
Oriental, NC
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 1
Rick,
I’m in the middle of this project on my boat. I went with Wally’s suggestion
and used “foamed pvc sheet”. Flex seems to be similar to the luan ply. Look at
the headliner part of wally’s page. I’m putting it up with no painting or
finish and it looks really nice. Very easy to work with, rou
I wouldn’t count on Oregon Inlet, even with dredging!
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 6:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at a second boat - must be out of my mind!
Thanks. The
I’m in the middle of this project too! I took Wally’s advice and am using 1/4”
foamed PVC, but in my case, I am not painting it. Wally has reported that it
has held up great and if it can stand up to his use.. It is held in place
by velcro. I am happy with the result and look so far. I used
Delaney has an engraved wooden plaque that is attached to the bulkhead at the
base of the port settee. All three C&C’s that my family has owned had the same
plaque mounted in the same location. I suspect that this was done by Hartge
Yachts as a service for new boat purchases since all three boat
Me too! I replaced my original 40” wheel with a 42” Lewmar folding wheel,
expensive, but a great upgrade! Can’t help on the fit though, the Lewmar fit
perfect.
James
“Delaney”
C&C 38 Mk 11
Oriental, NC
From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2016 3:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.c
Currently reading Dewey Lambdin. Not the easiest to read but his books are
rapidly climbing to the top of favorites list. I also enjoy anything written by
James L. Nelson. And there are always the traditional picks of C. S. Forester,
Alexander Kent, and Patrick O’Brian. For a change of pace, I l
since no one else has brought it up what about all the other things we have
on our boats that potentially dangerous. Like the gas tank for the dinghy, the
propane for the stove, the odd can of mineral spirits or the admirals
hairspray? We are surrounded by everyday things that could go boom!
Joe,
there is a ton of discussion about props for direct drive A-4s on the Moyer
forum. The prevailing opinion seeming to be that it is important to select a
prop that will allow the engine to develop enough rpms to get into the heart
of it's powerband. A-4s output very little power below 2000
There were definitely two keel options on the 1974 30’. The deep draft keel was
5’ and the shoal draft was 4’ 3”. We owned a shoal draft version. not sure how
the ad came up with a 4’7” measurement.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 1976
Oriental, NC
From: andrew rothweiler via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, Decem
Is it worth $125 to not worry about a leaking seal on a fuel pump or if it is
the correct specs, or will it actually arrive, or I try to avoid cheap
chinese crap whenever possible
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC
From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 5:22
Can’t believe no one has listed this!
Duct Tape
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2015 5:20 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat tools
10 in 1 screw driver. Does large and small hose clamps and large an
I have a fool-proof solution, just swap that dirty old diesel for an A-4;-)
You'll never have that problem again since the A-4 doesn't even have an oil
filter!! Sorry guys, couldn't resist. I'll go flog myself now
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk2
Oriental, NC
-Original Message-
From: John
I’ll have to agree with go biggest or smallest opinion. Personally, I have an
8’ inflatable and use a Honda 2hp that is perfect for my needs. For long trips,
I would prefer a bigger engine but the little suits my usage very well. A note
on Honda’s, the carb is much more sensitive to trash in the
Brian and David,
The best person to answer your question is probably Rick Brass. He has done
this project on his 38. I looked into it for my 38 also, so I can get you
pointed in the right direction. My keel (and most probably yours too) was
originally cast by Mars Metals. They can and do cast bo
Kevin, I spotted that Jet Ski at Great Guana Key in the Abacos this summer and
had to take a pic of it! I have no idea how he rigged up steering cables or the
throttle but it looked hilarious! The mud bank it was sitting on wasn’t
something I wanted to slog through and the water was too shallow
Different Boat, but I did mine the opposite way. I made a small bimini and have
an extension that zips to the front edge and extends forward with a tent pole
in the front. It can’t be used while sailiing since it is above the boom but
it’s great while docked or when motoring down the waterway. I
Stu,
could you send me Mark’s contact info or send him a message asking him to
contact me? Hate to trouble you but it would be very much appreciated!
James
Delaney
C&C 38 1976
Oriental, NC
From: Stu via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2015 7:33 PM
To: C&C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus
Any Lister’s going? I’d love to meet up. Company for dinner would be even
better since I’ll be alone!
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bo
I would like to reply to Mark’s classified ad but I don’t seem to be able to
log into the classified ads to send a message. Help!
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including u
Mark,
Garhauer makes excellent equipment, you can't go wrong there. As far as
getting the leach tight when sailing, it sounds like you need to ease the
topping lift so that the mainsheet can pull the boom farther down and thus
tighten the leach. A rigid vang is not actually rigid, it is spring
at I have on my 35 with the original
sheaves.
Joel
On Monday, September 21, 2015, jtsails via CnC-List
wrote:
Jeffrey,
Not sure I agree with your conclusions. 7x19 SS wire isn’t what I would call
cheap, plus you would pay for a rigger to do a wire to rope splice plus an eye
splice.
In my experience, the prop offset was designed to offset the effect of
“prop-walk” when motoring forward. The trade-off is that the boat will
“prop-walk” much more in reverse with the offset. If you have ever tried to
drive a fin-keeled boat that has no offset in the prop, you will very much
ap
Boat_SigJeffrey,
Not sure I agree with your conclusions. 7x19 SS wire isn’t what I would call
cheap, plus you would pay for a rigger to do a wire to rope splice plus an eye
splice. A hybrid high tech line like New Englands “VPC” is much less expensive
($1.79/ft for 7/16” at defender) and it onl
My last boat was a Lightning that was officially named TBA (to be announced).
At each regatta, the crew came up with a new name for the weekend and used
electrical tape to apply it to the boat. The Seinfeld tv show was big at that
time and provided lots of good names. A few of my favorites were
Danny,
the only GPS I carry on my boat is a small handheld garmin, I just don’t see
the need for a big chartplotter. I’ve chartered boats that had them several
times, but even then I found that I only used my handheld to navigate with
since I am familiar and comfortable with it. Most of the time
Count me in the camp of NO! The only thing that runs when I’m not on the boat
is the bilge pump (very small pump at that). I go so far as disconnecting the
shore power cord. My battery monitor has yet to record 1 amp of consumed power
per month and that is with a stuffing box that was dripping c
t 8:41 PM, jtsails via CnC-List
wrote:
Earlier this year I changed out my old perko combo steaming/foredeck light
for a marinebeam combo. The marinebeam LED is awesome, the old light really
didn’t illuminate the foredeck at all (it was 39 years old) and the new light
is so bright it throws shadows.
Earlier this year I changed out my old perko combo steaming/foredeck light for
a marinebeam combo. The marinebeam LED is awesome, the old light really didn’t
illuminate the foredeck at all (it was 39 years old) and the new light is so
bright it throws shadows. the only problem I have is the new
Danny, I’m probably the closest unless someone is passing through. Is the boat
in Wilmington or at Wrightsville Beach? Might be a week or two before I could
slip away thoughAlso, send me (off list) a link to the listing, I might
know the boat.
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC (but live
You mean someone like Wally? Just kidding!!
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38 Mk 2
Oriental, NC
From: PME via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2015 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PME
Subject: Re: Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?
Yea, there’s likely some FOOL thinking what a great deal and
I agree, sounds like fuel supply issue. BTW you guys looked good out there
racing (or was it drifting). I really like the C&C logo on the main!
James
Delaney
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2015 6:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.
that sounds pretty darn close to what I have observed. An A4 at 2750rpm is
about 24 hp and I’m doing 6.5 knots with the same hull as the LF38.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC
From: PME via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2015 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PME
Subject: Re: Stus
I’m going to assume that the original poster’s Atomic 4 doesn’t have a
reduction gear. that’s the biggest problem with the A4 , it doesn’t make much
power under 2500rpm and there are not any props that work well above 2500. A
lot of the A4 guys are using Indigo props which will at least get the
Raymond,
I replaced the aluminum framed windows on my 1976 38 with Lewmar opening
Portlights. They were a little expensive but a very nice upgrade. I had to
enlarge the window openings a little, used a jigsaw with a blade made to cut
fiberglass and it was fairly easy.
James Taylor
"Delaney"
C&
Joe,
On my 38, I went even smaller-120%. I don’t race much and if I do I have a 155%
that I can use. I have been very pleased with the smaller sail, much easier to
handle and still moves the boat very well. With a J measurement of over 16’,
the LP of the smaller jib is just over 20’, still a lot
Dave,
If you do wind up replacing the hatches, I would be interested in buying one of
the old ones to replace parts of mine (if they are the same size as mine). Let
me know!
James Taylor
“Delaney”
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 7:43 PM
To: cn
David,
I would simply run the sheet through the pole end, the angle should keep the
pole pushed against the clew. Another option would be to tie the sheet to the
clew with a bowline and hook the pole into the eye of the bowline.
James
“Delaney”
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, nc
From: David Knecht via CnC-
I just remade my panel and got it from www.frontpanelexpress.com . Download
their design program and DIY. Very easy to figure out and the panel came out
awesome and inexpensive. The program even quotes the price!
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk2
Oriental, NC
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday,
I have both the insurance and the towing with BoatUS. The unlimited towing is a
no-brainer in my area as Sea-tow is 30 miles away and TowBoatUS is local. I
hate to admit that I’ve used them several times and the local guy is great!
Helps to know the local folks and I can assure you that he will
I agree with everything Rick said, but I am going to throw a little different
question into the equation. I was in the same boat (ha, ha) with bev last year.
Over the winter I rebuilt the system with two group 31 flooded wet cells for
the house bank and was hoping to repurpose the better grp24 f
I used a “stove pipe cement” on mine with no problems.
james
“Delaney”
Oriental NC
1976 C&C 38
From: bobmor99 . via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2015 8:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bobmor99 .
Subject: Re: Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant
Thank you Martin.
On Wed, May
I installed the Webasto FCF 16000 on my Mk 2 38 and have loved it. I bought the
complete kit and was very impressed with the quality of the included hardware.
James
C&C 38 Mk2
Oriental, NC
From: PME via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2015 10:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-Lis
Petar,
When I first purchased my 38 I considered doing this. After looking at the work
involved in reinforcing the cabin top and dealing with the balsa core in the
area you would want to mount the traveler, I decided that it was easier to to
deal with the traveler as is. The current location is
Rick,
In my opinion the adjustment would have to be based on the wind speed and angle
too much to be do-able. A much easier solution would be to get the class to all
agree to run in one class or the other...most likely JAM. Any way you do it, if
I can clear the schedule, I’ll be there!
James
del
Way to go Rick!
Let’s see, 64 ft of sta-set 5/16 at ~$1/ft and 74 ft of 5/16 double braid at
~$.5/ft would be retail price of roughly $100. I’m not sure what I’ll use them
for but I’ll send Stu $100 for those two items. I’ll send a private email with
shipping info
James
“Delaney”
C&C 38
Oriental
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2015 4:19 PM
To: 'RPH' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum
My main reason for preferring a forum over an email list is nights like tonight
where I have 95 emails to sort through on the computer and I know t
Bill,
Some of the people you would rate as lurkers get a great deal of information
from this list and also support it both in referrals and money.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk 2
Oriental, NC
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your lis
I’m with Bob
James
Delaney
C&C 38 Mk2
Oriental, NC
From: Bob Hickson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 8:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List List or forum
My 5 cents worth … it is contrary to the comments that I am seeing.
I would like to see a change to a forum if it
Really Bill? I had no trouble getting insurance on my boat. And I not only have
a pressurized alcohol stove, but an Atomic four as well!
James
C&C 38 Mk2
Oriental, NC
From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stov
I'll point out that it is true that the high tech synthetic are much
stronger and do allow you to down size, they can be very hard on the hands
and not work well with rope clutches and self-tailing winches. The other
option is to stay with the original size and use a Mid-tech rope such as New
E
Dave,
I just installed a battery monitor made by victron. Haven’t really played with
it yet but it does all of the things you are asking about and is easier to
install than the Link monitor. Good article here
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_monitor
James
“Delaney”
1976 C&C 38
Oriental
Edd,
you will need to size the alternator output wire according to the max potential
output of the alternator and the length of the run. You will probably gets lots
of different answers about fusing that wire, ABYC does not require it but many
people do put a fuse in there. The problem with havi
Edd,
The Echo charger will transfer a portion of the charge power to start battery
any time the voltage on the house bank is above a certain point (that is
adjustable too). the amount of power it steals is dependant on the difference
in the voltages between the two banks. The included instructio
Edd,
I am in the middle of this project. I am making a house bank with 2 group31
deep cells and a group 24 for starting. The alternator output is wired directly
to the house bank and the echo charger handles the start battery. I retained
the 1/2/all switch for the house bank and added a on/off s
This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and is free to subscribed members.
Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226&rn=428&action=show_detail
___
Not sure I would say that this part
Burt, As the other response stated, there should be a HIN on the transom. My
1976 38 doesn't have one there, I don't know if it was never there or was
faired over during a topside repaint. I do have a small C&C plaque in the
cockpit that has "380100" on it and that is the number on all the paper
AT4 is no different than any diesel when it comes to rpm’s, try running a
Yanmar as a direct drive with no reduction gear-you’d have the same problems. I
have a 2:1 reduction A4 in my 38 and it does as well as or better than all of
the reports I’m reading in these posts, although I will say I bu
Joel,
That is exactly what I did on mine and it has worked very well. I didn’t use
any hose on the lower end, just from the top of the pvc to the deck fitting. I
would suggest that you keep the pvc section as short as possible to reduce the
torque force on the elbow.
James
S/V Delaney
1976 C&C 3
Definitely looks to be a 38 hull! Maybe this is the mysterious Mk1 38! A lot of
us 38 owners are puzzled by the Mk1 vs Mk2 differences and I think that I
remember someone commenting that C&C made a series of custom 1 ton racers that
constituted the Mk1 class and the Mk2 were the production versi
Burt,
The 3/4 ton term is a reference to the old IOR rating system. It was an effort
to create level rating classes of boats that could be raced with figuring
handicaps. Do a search on IOR ton rating.
I don’t think there is enough info on sailboatdata.com to calculate clearance.
James
1976 C&C 38
Dennis,
The Tenergy brand have a good reputation with the R/C crowd. I would recommend
sticking to NiCd type batteries for this application. They have a lower
capacity than NiMH but usually hold up much better. Tenergy makes a 3500mAh
C-cell. A good source for quality batteries is your local hob
Danny,
In my mind, you have already eliminated the carb as being the primary source of
the problem (you have had the same problem with both carbs). my next effort
would be to use a 5 gallon OB tank with new plumbing (don't use any of the
existing fuel lines or filters) and a clean carb. I'm thin
Danny,
>From reading your previous posts on the Moyer forum I suspect that your issues
>are fuel related, not ignition or wiring. Having said that, it is not a bad
>idea to have a back up ignition system on the boat and I would suggest that
>you get moyer to send you a distributer base plate, po
Curtis,
My Atomic 4 runs pretty good on Captain Morgan's too, but at that point the
hell with the substitute use and just use the Captain Morgan's as the big guy
intended and worry about the stove later!!
James
1976 C&C 38
Delaney
Oriental, NC
- Original Message -
From: Curtis vi
I think I saw them in the CS Johnson catalog, but have no idea where to buy
them from.
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC
- Original Message -
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
To: CnClist
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2014 1:59 PM
Subject: Stus-List Stanchion inserts
Speaking o
Recently replaced my old lifelines with Amsteel and really like them. CS
Johnson has a new style of fitting that is very nice,
http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/p/00014.jpg .
Did all the splices myself following the Samson recommendations and am very
pleased with the result.
James
S/V Dela
Recently replaced my old lifelines with Amsteel and really like them. CS
Johnson has a new style of fitting that is very nice,
http://www.csjohnson.com/marinecatalog/p/00014.jpg .
Did all the splices myself following the Samson recommendations and am very
pleased with the result.
James
S/V Delan
I'm with you, I once saw a car crash and kill all four passengers- I sold my
car and walk everywhere I go now.
James
S/V Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC
Sorry for the smart ass reply, but this thread has put me in the mood
- Original Message -
From: Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List
I'm with Joe here and have been on the receiving end of that lecture many
times. If you really want to shut them up quick, ask them how long it has been
since they actually check the proper operation of the propane solenoid valve! I
don't go on forums and lecture people that they shouldn't have
Rob's comments are very interesting and lead me to believe that the "MK1" was a
custom racer/cruiser version of the 1 tonner. I would guess that not many of
these were built. I also am starting to believe that we all own the production
version (MK2 if you want) of the 38. I don't think C&C ever
Steve, the break between the Mk1 and Mk2 is a total mystery to me. I own Hull
#100 which was built in 1976 while Rick Brass has hull #47 built sometime in
1975? All evidence indicates that my boat is a Mk2 while Rick's is a Mk1. I
have been on both boats and I'll be darned if I can find any diff
Andy,
Is your engine a direct drive or does it have the reduction gear? Lots of
discussion about props for direct drive engines on the Moyer Marine forum, but
most people seem to favor the Indigo 3 blade fixed.
James Taylor
Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC
- Original Message -
From:
Joel and Dennis,
If you really want to understand the how of why of sail aerodynamics, I would
suggest reading the book "the art and science of sails" by Tom Whidden. He
thoroughly debunks the Bernouli theory as applied to sails. His theory is quite
complex but well explained in the book and has
91 matches
Mail list logo
