I'm with Joe here and have been on the receiving end of that lecture many 
times. If you really want to shut them up quick, ask them how long it has been 
since they actually check the proper operation of the propane solenoid valve! I 
don't go on forums and lecture people that they shouldn't have propane stoves 
and I'm tired of hearing people lecture me about the dangers of a gasoline 
engines. Millions of boats have been used around the world that are powered by 
gas engines and there has been an amazingly small number of incidents 
considering the neglect that many boat operators practice. I usually try to 
stay out of these discussions because it's impossible to argue against emotion, 
but I've just finished my first scotch and that is enough to impair my normal 
discretion. As for Bill's list of advantages, I would argue that my 38 y/o A4 
(never rebuilt) should put to rest any debate about life span, I'll give him 
the better mileage but for my usage it doesn't amount to much of a difference 
and as for dependability, well, I have  38 y/o A4 that cranks on the first 
revolution anytime I need it, if it ever fails to do that, I have a small, 
simple tool kit that can handle almost any issue I'll ever have with it. To his 
list of disadvantages I would add that diesel fuel stinks to high heaven and 
permeates everything on the boat, and diesels require a much bigger tool kit 
and more knowledge than most owners have to work on. Bill, as far as your "with 
all respect" lead in.... That does not excuse an ill-informed, ignorant, and 
emotion-based answer. A nicely setup A4 with a 2:1 reduction gear is a great 
engine to power a C&C 3/4 tonner. I know that my A4 powers my 15,000 lbs C&C 38 
quite nicely in all but the most extreme conditions, not to say that I wouldn't 
enjoy an extra 15 horses occasionally, but I doubt that I will ever consider it 
worth the cost to switch to diesel.
Back to the original question, the reversing gear (transmission) on the A4 is 
fairly stiff when shifting but what you are feeling is probably some binding in 
the cable. I think you are on the right track by disconnecting the cable and 
checking the operation.
James
S/V Delaney
1976 C&C 38
powered by an A4
Oriental, NC 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 2:10 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift


  We can assume you have no propane stove then?

  I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline 
engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline 
for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room!

  YIKES!!!

   

  Joe Della Barba

  Coquina

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
Coleman via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift

   

  With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was 
the primary reason I always wanted diesel. 

  Followed by better mileage, and longer life.  And probably more dependable. 
Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine.

  On the down side, noisier,  heavier, and more expensive.

   

  Bill Coleman

  C&C 39

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM
  To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift

   

  Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good 
number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel 
powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The 
A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel 
counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor 
.. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas.

   

  Steve

  Suhana, C&C 32

  Toronto

   

   

  On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is 
it oil pan .... can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not 
bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline 
fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump 
until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. 
This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on 
that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches 
fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the 
previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should 
have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune 
time .... a wire with a couple alligator clips would work.

   

  I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. 
My Ignition is my ‘stop’. 

   

  I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow 
alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel.

   

  My gear shift is fairly easy to move.  I have to hold the pedestal-mounted 
gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a 
definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you 
actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with 
mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. 
Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also 
recommended by many.

   

  Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft 
coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator 
tensioner recently.

   

  Peter Fell
  Sidney, BC
  Cygnet
  C&C 27 MkIII

   

  From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 

  Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM

  To: bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift

   

   

  Hi,

   

  I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4.  I can only comment from my experience 
with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original)

   

  Comments below in bold type

   

   

  <![if !supportLists]>1.       <![endif]>Is there generally an “off” or kill 
switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off 
switch that is used before turning off the ignition key  

   

  Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch.

   

  <![if !supportLists]>2.       <![endif]>This motor has an electric fuel pump 
upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on 
with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find?

   

  Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil.

   

  <![if !supportLists]>3.       <![endif]> My previous experience with inboard 
boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when 
the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like 
it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the 
transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction 
gearing systems.

   

        Mine is the same whether the engine is running or not.  It kind of 
slips into reverse with no clunking into gear.  Forward is far more noticeable. 
 Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe and the forward it 1:1 direct drive

   

  New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. 
New spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little 
variance). I have not started it yet but that is my next step.

   

  85lbs is not bad.  A perfect or freshly rebuilt typically runs over 100lbs I 
believe.

   

  Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the survey 
or sea trial…. Those services would have cost almost as much as the boat. I 
paid very little for the boat and was willing to take the risk. I know the 
previous owner. He has been and still is at my marina. I have seen the boat in 
the water and underway. I am an optimist at heart.  

   

  Head over to the moyer marine forums.  You get loads of great info over 
there!  I got the Moyer exchange engine for my boat a couple of years ago.  
Most people advised a diesel conversion but, I could not justify the cost and 
time consideration when the A4 pushes my boat along just fine and it wasd drop 
in replacement.  There are still 20,000 of them out there running nicely and 
moyer makes it a far more viable engine and perfectly serviceable. 

   

  Danny

  Lolita

  1973 Viking 33

  Westport Point, MA

   


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