Re: Stus-List Cool change and Oregon Offshore Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Well Frank's predictions of conditions were more or less right on. I crewed
on Gary Bruner's Yankee 30 and it was challenging. We raced conservatively
And three of us helmed in short stints. The seas were confused and good
sized. Keeping the boat tracking was quite a physical affair because of the
Yankee's smallish wheel.

I can't count the number of blown chutes throughout the fleets. We are
packing a Mumm 36 chute home with us so they may get it fixed and back in
time for Swiftsure. There is going to be a lot of work for sail makers in
the pacific northwest these next two weeks!

Looking forward to more war stories from other sailors at the Royal Vic
this afternoon.

I reiterate the wisdom Frank exercised in staying in. It was a somewhat
wild ride.

Kevin
30-2
Sent from a mobile device.
On May 11, 2014 5:35 AM, "David Jacobs via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Good decision. Perhaps the one thing we do benefit from getting older is
> wisdom.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Alan
> Bergen via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 10, 2014 7:43 PM
> *To:* C&C Photoalbum email list
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cool change and Oregon Offshore Race
>
>
>
> I received this email from Frank, this morning:
>
>
> As you know, we decided not to race in the Oregon offshore.
> This decision was made at 0600 Thursday morning.  All the crew members
> were
> in agreement not to participate in the race.
> We had been monitoring the weather for the past 30 days and watching the
> trends for the offshore race course.
>
> We knew that the race was going to be fast but that implied that the
> course
> would be challenging.  We were looking at weather predications from NOAA
> that included up to 40 knot gusts, 20 to 35 knot sustained winds, five
> foot
> swell at 9 seconds and nine foot wind waves from Grays Harbor to the
> Strait.
>
> The boat was not the problem, it was the crew that I was concerned about.
> We could expect one critical boat part failure, most of us getting sick,
> and
> possibly one or more serious injuries.  Only three crew were experienced
> in
> heavy weather sailing offshore.  Our average crew members age is close to
> 60
> years old.  Two members being over 70 years old and one less than 50 years
> old.  Three women and 5 men on the crew.  A majority of the crew is new to
> offshore racing and have never experienced the conditions that were
> predicted for the time of the race.  Although we all wanted to race, it
> was
> obvious to all of us that if we experienced the conditions that were
> predicted we would most likely regret the decision to go.
>
> Making the decision not to race was very hard for me but deciding to go
> and
> being responsible for a crew members injury would be even more difficult
> to
> endure.
>
> For our boat, for our crew, the decision not to race in the predicted race
> course conditions was a good one.
>
> The crew delivered the boat back to RCYC.  Nice cruise up the Columbia
> River.  Stopped at Rainer over night.  Averaged 6.7 kts through the water
> and 4.1 kts over land.
>
> We are already preparing for next year.
>
>
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
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Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Yes they did and they are doing the Trans-Pac double handed.

The third place finisher was another Santa Cruz 27 "Kokopelli". Koko's race
included a trip up the mast by one of their woman crew members to free a
wrapped chute. I can assure you, this would not have been high on my list
things to do when I was out there!

Kevin
30-2

<< SC 27 Blade Runner, overall winners of the Oregon
Offshore
,



Are you kidding me, this little 27 footer survived all that slop, and
won!?!?



Bill Coleman

C&C 39



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Alan
Bergen
*Sent:* Tuesday, April 29, 2014 5:58 PM
*To:* C&C Photoalbum email list
*Subject:* Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race



The 38th annual Oregon Offshore race will start on Thursday, May 8, 2014,
starting time to be based on the safest time for crossing the Columbia
River bar.  The race starts at the mouth of the Columbia River, goes up the
coast of Washington, rounds Duntze Rock bell buoy to starboard, and
finishes in Victoria harbor.  Total distance is 193 miles.  Two C&C's are
entered:  Cool Change (Landfall 38), skippered by Frank Noragon and
Katzenjammer (34), skippered by Jim Calnon.  There are thirty boats
entered, including some large boats which are using this race as a
qualifying race for the Vic - Maui.  You can get more information about the
race and the boats entered, as well as a link to a race tracker which will
allow you to follow the boats throughout the race, at www.oregonoffshore.org
.





Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Stus-List Interior Wood Conditioning?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I was hoping to tap the collective wisdom for suggestions on conditioning
matte finish interior bulk heads, cabinets, etc. I am hoping for a "rub it
on and done" solution. It doesn't need to last forever as long as it
doesn't take forever.
I have been using Murphy's oil soap disposable cleaning wipes, which are
great, but are a bit too far on the cleanser end of the spectrum. I like
the fact that I can leave a pack under the sink and use them at will
however. If there were something similar but better, that would be great.

Thanks,
Kevin
30-2
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Stus-List Anybody in Gloucester, MA?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Visiting family in Gloucester this weekend. Just curious if anybody from
the list is nearby and wanted to show off their C&C to my wife and I this
weekend. We head back to Portland, Or Monday night.

Of course, happy to reciprocate on the west coast!

Best,
Kevin

Osprey
C&C 30 Mk II

Sent from a mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List Distance to maneuver to exit and enter slip

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

We have our 30mkII in a 28' slip and a 35' (max) fairway. We have a bit of
Columbia River Current and some wind from time to time. I haven't had any
issues, but we are on our boat all the time and our C&C (as most) will turn
on a dime. That said, when I make the turn my stern is within inches of the
finger/boat directly across from me and I punch a touch of reverse last
minute to keep the bow off the deck locker once we are lined up.

I don't think its a big deal, but a captain in a gazillion pound, shippy
full keeler might suggest otherwise.

KD



Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493


On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 6:46 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW, All of our docks have fingers that are 35 long by approximately 16
> wide. There is a 60 foot fairway between each set of docks. That is 171% of
> nominal boat length. We have put sailboats as long as 38 into the 35 foot
> slips (about 160%) with little or no problems.
>
> Trawlers and single engine power boats are less maneuverable that most
> sailboats, so have more problems using slips down the fairway.
>
> Small runabout powerboats are worse yet, but principally because the
> drivers only seem to know two power settings - neutral or Full throttle.
>
> Surprisingly, the worst case is a Magregor 26 with a 50 hp motor, who
> can't get into his slip no way unless he puts the daggerboard down all the
> way. Without the board down, when you turn the engine off center the boat
> just slips sideways like a flat bottomed dinghy instead of turning. We
> generally have the skipper come up the fairway and throw us a line, then we
> pull him into his slip by hand.
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jun 5, 2014, at 16:54, Don Siddall via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > How much turning space should a boat have to be able to safely exit and
> enter a slip, if the slip is at right angles to the channel?
> >
> > Presently our club is wrestling with the issue of the length of boat
> that should be in the slip given the amount of room available to back out,
> then straighten out and go down the channel between the docks.
> >
> > The Parks Canada's guideline for their docking design is that there must
> be 175% of the boat length to allow a skipper to exit and enter a slip.
> >
> > We all know that C&Cs need less than most boats. Any idea what the specs
> are for C&C's?
> >
> > I'd appreciate hearing if there are any guidelines that your club uses
> for all keelboats.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Don
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
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Stus-List C&C 30 mkII preventers

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Looking for pictures / drawings for preventer set up on a 30-2. Advice from
others would be valuable too, but especially helpful from fellow 30-2
folks. Thanks!

Kevin
Portland
30-2


-- 


Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493
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Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I find that my jib sheet bowlines get hung up on my stay quite a bit,
especially with my 130 on. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Kevin
30-2

Sent from a mobile device.
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

For late 80’s  C&C’s does anyone have advice or a source for sink gaskets
at the drains? The draines are the grey plastic “Hockey Puck” looking ones.
Thanks!



Thanks for the advice on the jib sheets. We are taking a trip up to
Victoria / Gulf Islands / San Juan’s from our berth in Portland, Oregon  on
July 4th. Sounds like new sheet(s) would be a nice thing to have for that
trip.


Thanks,

Kevin

30-2



Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493
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Stus-List Winch for sale?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Looking to replace my barient 18 (6.7:1, 24:1) cabin top with a self
tailer. Of similar power ratio.

Does anyone have one they would like to sell?

Sent from a mobile device.
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Stus-List Crab pot free / tow lane - Columbia River to Victoria

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Does anyone have coordinates our a good source for the crab pot free zone
on the Oregon coast ? My wife and I are heading up to Victoria and Canadian
Gulf Islands on the 4th of July for a few weeks on our 30-2. I would like
to follow the land up the coast weather/wind permitting.

Anybody on this list in Astoria Or, or Victoria BC or there abouts in the
next few weeks?

Thanks!
Sent from my Tablet
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Re: Stus-List Crab pot free / tow lane - Columbia River to Victoria

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

That is "lane" up the coast... I have a Yanmar question as well but I will
post separately.

Sent from my Tablet
On Jun 26, 2014 9:57 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have coordinates our a good source for the crab pot free zone
> on the Oregon coast ? My wife and I are heading up to Victoria and Canadian
> Gulf Islands on the 4th of July for a few weeks on our 30-2. I would like
> to follow the land up the coast weather/wind permitting.
>
> Anybody on this list in Astoria Or, or Victoria BC or there abouts in the
> next few weeks?
>
> Thanks!
> Sent from my Tablet
>
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>
>
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Stus-List Yanmar 2GM20 Starter Not Starting / Engaging

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Hi Everybody,



My starter is beginning to misbehave a bit. Looking for help diagnosing
issue.



*Symptom: *Occasionally (with more frequency now) I will press the starter
button on my Yanmar 2GM20 and nothing happens. No, turning over, etc. Just
crickets. Then I take my finger off and try it again and it starts to turn
over fine. Occasionally I have to press twice before it will start to
engage.



Any ideas? When this happened on my classic BMW motorcycle, it was my
starter relay. Could it be the same on my Yanmar? Whatever it is it seems
electrical rather than mechanical.



Thanks!

Kevin

30-2


Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM20 Starter Not Starting / Engaging

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Thanks everybody!



Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493


On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 9:39 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> I didn't see anybody else suggest this but you can short the high current
> relay contacts that provide power to the starter.  If the starter turns
> over without problem then it is almost certainly not the starter or power
> to it.  Now you can focus on the starter button, button wiring and relay.
>
> Good luck,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jun 27, 2014 11:40 AM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Everybody,
>>
>>
>>
>> My starter is beginning to misbehave a bit. Looking for help diagnosing
>> issue.
>>
>>
>>
>> *Symptom: *Occasionally (with more frequency now) I will press the
>> starter button on my Yanmar 2GM20 and nothing happens. No, turning over,
>> etc. Just crickets. Then I take my finger off and try it again and it
>> starts to turn over fine. Occasionally I have to press twice before it will
>> start to engage.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any ideas? When this happened on my classic BMW motorcycle, it was my
>> starter relay. Could it be the same on my Yanmar? Whatever it is it seems
>> electrical rather than mechanical.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Kevin
>>
>> 30-2
>>
>>
>> Kevin Driscoll
>> Portland,  Oregon
>> 503  //  875  //  3493
>>
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>>
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List AH 4000 Questions

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I have the same Auto Obsolescence 4000 auto pilot. Thankfully it still
works like a charm* (though it comes in the cabin when not actively in
use).

*We will see if it is still charming after our trip over the Columbia Bar
and up the coast to Victoria, BC on Friday...

KD



Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493


On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 9:19 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My autopilot has developed 2 annoying behaviours. One is it will release
> on its own at times. I need a bungee on the engagement lever or it will
> creep up and let go at random times. The other one is despite the gasket
> looking good, water gets in the computer box. I have to drain it every now
> and then or it starts shorting out the buttons and making it do random
> things. Anyone know what is up with this?
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
>
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Stus-List Charging problems 30-2 Yanmar 2 gm 20

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

On our anniversary sail up to Victoria, we pulled in to Gray's harbour, Wa
last night because the batteries are not charging. Looking for suggestions
of diagnosis / solutions. See below: thanks

The alternator belt was somewhat loose but I tightened it and no luck on
charging. Tested terminals on back of alternator and reading was same
before and after tightening... About 35 volts.

About to start this morning by checking / cleaning battery terminals and
other connections from alternator back. Hoping this could be the issue
because as I previously posted my starter has been giving me the clicks. I
have the faint glow on the Charging indicator lamp at the engine panel too.
I have a heart interface  "incharge " alternator regulator.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks
Kevin

Sent from my Tablet
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Re: Stus-List Charging problems 30-2 Yanmar 2 gm 20

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

No but voltage at rear end of the Hitachi alternator read s 35-36 volts
with engine running.

Cleaned and reset all battery connections and seem to be fine. It seems
like staying battery may be getting a charge since it is quite warm to when
engine is on. (2) house batteries are not warm at all. They were also lower
voltage.

However, the batteries come up to voltage when on shore power. Is it fair
to assume batteries are fine then?

Sent from a mobile device.
On Jul 5, 2014 9:43 AM, "Joe Della Barba"  wrote:

> 35 VOLTS?
>
> Is your boat a 32 volt boat
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> j...@dellabarba.com
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Driscoll via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 05, 2014 12:04 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Subject:* Stus-List Charging problems 30-2 Yanmar 2 gm 20
>
>
>
> On our anniversary sail up to Victoria, we pulled in to Gray's harbour, Wa
> last night because the batteries are not charging. Looking for suggestions
> of diagnosis / solutions. See below: thanks
>
> The alternator belt was somewhat loose but I tightened it and no luck on
> charging. Tested terminals on back of alternator and reading was same
> before and after tightening... About 35 volts.
>
> About to start this morning by checking / cleaning battery terminals and
> other connections from alternator back. Hoping this could be the issue
> because as I previously posted my starter has been giving me the clicks. I
> have the faint glow on the Charging indicator lamp at the engine panel too.
> I have a heart interface  "incharge " alternator regulator.
>
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Kevin
>
> Sent from my Tablet
>
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Re: Stus-List Charging problems 30-2 Yanmar 2 gm 20

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

After cleaning all the terminals, checking fuses etc. I found that the wire
from the alternator to the external regulator had corroded and fallen off.
I didn't see it at first because it's buried in my tight engine
compartment. Of course in hindsight I might have checked the regulator
earlier. Good thing is that u understand my charging system a whole lot
better and all the connections have been refreshed. I also got my link 20
battery monitor working again.

Had a couple of nice days in Victoria BC and pushing off for Arbutus cove
on discovery island soon. What a beautiful place to cruise...

Kevin
30-2
Portland

Sent from a mobile device.
On Jul 6, 2014 7:18 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> 35v may infact be the open circuit voltage.  Check if you are getting 35v
> at the battery terminals.  That would explain the heat.  Sounds to me like
> a bad charge regulator or bad interconnecting wiring on the sensing line.
> A standard lead acid 12v system should be limited to ~14.7v. Double that
> for a 24v system.
>
> With an external regulator the regulating terminal on the alternator
> connects to the regulator.  This single wire provides the feedback to the
> alternator that it is providing enough (or not enough) voltage.  Simple
> regulators rely only on voltage but the better external regulators will use
> a shunt to provide a current feedback to the regulator as well.  The
> current is/should be directly proportional to the differance in voltage
> between the battery and the alternator output.  The current should also be
> limited (by limiting the difference in voltage) to the max charging voltage
> of the battery (type) and the max output of the alternator.
>
> Disrupting the current and/or voltage sensing lines to the regulator or
> the regulating line to the alternator will cause improper voltage output
> from the alternator.  35v sounds VERY improper.  This "disruption" is the
> reason that turning the ignition key to the off position before pulling the
> stop plunger can cause a blown alternator on some systems.  The key
> disrupts the regulating signal and the alternator goes to max output.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jul 5, 2014 12:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> On our anniversary sail up to Victoria, we pulled in to Gray's harbour,
>> Wa last night because the batteries are not charging. Looking for
>> suggestions of diagnosis / solutions. See below: thanks
>>
>> The alternator belt was somewhat loose but I tightened it and no luck on
>> charging. Tested terminals on back of alternator and reading was same
>> before and after tightening... About 35 volts.
>>
>> About to start this morning by checking / cleaning battery terminals and
>> other connections from alternator back. Hoping this could be the issue
>> because as I previously posted my starter has been giving me the clicks. I
>> have the faint glow on the Charging indicator lamp at the engine panel too.
>> I have a heart interface  "incharge " alternator regulator.
>>
>> Any other suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Kevin
>>
>> Sent from my Tablet
>>
>> ___
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>>
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Stus-List Input on Ipad installations @ Helm

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I am looking for pics / descriptions of IPad installations at the helm,
including USB/Charging if you have them. No need to get into “chart
plotters are better” discussion. I would probably agree, but the expense is
not justified at moment. Thanks for the input.


Will send pics / blog posts from our recent trip up the Oregon and
Washington Coasts to the Gulf and San Juan Islands as soon as my wife
uploads them. Everything went smoothly except the fog caused some
consternation.



Best,



Kevin

“Osprey” 30-2

Portland, Or


Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493
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Re: Stus-List 3/4 ton rehab

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Would like to hear how the rustoleum works out.

Sent from a mobile device.
On Aug 1, 2014 8:08 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  We used to race against a ¾ ton special painted black called 007.
> Boat-for-boat we were as close to dead-even as could be but we owed them
> time. If memory serves we rated 126 and they were 130-140 something. I
> found out Rust-Oleum (yes those guys) make marine paint at something like
> ½-1/4 the price of the “marine” brands that apparently works well when
> brushed on. I am going to try it on a cockpit hatch and see how it goes.
> You did luck out with the A4 – there are always deals on parts for those
> for determined scroungers and many of the diesels of that era have NO parts
> at all available anymore.
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
> *if anyone wants to buy her for what I have in the boat I can run off and
> buy a 43 LOL
>
>
>
> *From:* Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, August 01, 2014 11:00 AM
> *To:* Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* RE: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
>
>
>
> Thanks for the offer, Joe. You never know with these old A4s.
>
>
>
> I’m sure you are right about the estimate but I have some wiggle room
> before I get to the value of the boat. The PO was planning on salvaging the
> rig and crushing the hull so you can imagine what I might have paid. The
> boat looked tough but most of the issues (and there are a lot) are
> cosmetic.  After three weeks we are ready to get her in the water and do
> some sailing before the season is over. I have spent so far just over $1500
> and a LOT of elbow grease. My wife is a very good seamstress and she is
> willing to do the cushions including adding some back rests. We already
> have the materials in hand (Sunbrella). I am not using Awlgrip, just some
> decent deck and epoxy paint. The hull is in good shape and I will not be
> completely stripping the old paint. It is in good shape, just a little beat
> up and the wrong color. I am keeping in mind that this is not ever going to
> be a show boat. Just making it look good and feel good for two to spend a
> weekend on board. If sails come into the picture that number goes out the
> door. We will see where it all ends up but I am confident at this point
> that my efforts on this boat will (for the first time in my life) probably
> come back to me when I sell her for a bigger boat (the real upgrade). My
> guess is that I could have at least tripled my purchase price without doing
> anything but what fun is that?
>
>
>
> Best
>
> Skip
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Della Barba, Joe via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 01, 2014 10:31 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
>
>
>
> You must be **extraordinarily** good at doing work on the cheap. My boat
> could really use new sails, topside paint, and new cushions. The cost of
> that exceeds the market value of the boat. I did rewire my boat and that
> cost a good chunk of your proverbial $4K doing all the work myself. I have
> been quoted around $10K to paint the boat and over $5K to do interior
> cushions. I am not trying to be a Richard Cranium – I love the fact an old
> C&C has found a loving home – but I don’t see the finances working the way
> you think. I have seen again and again that once you start taking things
> apart you find more and more things to work on. Good luck – I am anxious to
> hear how you get topsides and interior done so far under the going rate
> because I need it too. I am pretty good at A4 scrounging if you need advice
> with that.
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Burt Stratton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 01, 2014 9:32 AM
> *To:* 'Petar Horvatic'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
>
>
>
> Respectfully, that all depends on what you paid for the boat. I am happily
> renewing my 1974 33 foot 3/4ton without breaking the bank and I am
> virtually certain the value of the boat will increase beyond the money I am
> spending. Like anything, if you buy right and have some talent you have
> opportunity to invest a bit without worrying about losing your hard earned
> $$. I paid almost nothing for a complete and solid yet neglected hull with
> a very nice rig. Replacing all the windows and hatch lenses with
> polycarbonate cost less than $600. Renewing the interior will cost me some
> stripping supplies, varnish and paint. The cushion covers will be the
> biggest expense. Next year the hull and deck will get a new paint job. I
> will also completely re-wire both AC and DC systems. When I am done it will
> be very pretty and comfortable I will be into it for about $4k total,
> including the purchase of the boat….. (I do the bulk of the work myself) I
> am not including the no

Re: Stus-List Anchor locker latch for C&C 30-2

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Mike it's a perko latch. I have an extra that I am about to install but I
will get model number for you. My old one I am taking off is serviceable
just stiff. I haven't tried lubing it yet we've had another on osprey so
thought I would use it. I am at the v marina tonight. Will try to remember
to look for it.

Kevin
30-2
Portland, OR

Sent from a mobile device.
On Aug 4, 2014 4:04 PM, "McNamee, Michael via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Does anyone know where to get a replacement anchor locker latch for a
> C&C 30-2?  My wife and I were pulling into an anchorage this past weekend
> and when I went forward to get the anchor ready I found that the tab on the
> latch was missing… don’t know where it could have gone, but the result was
> that I couldn’t open the locker lid.  So we ended up tying to a nearby
> state park dock.  Later I found that I could pry the lid open with a
> screwdriver- fortunately it wasn’t in the latched position or I couldn’t
> have done even that.
>
>
>
> Anyway, I was thinking of just replacing the whole thing with a simple
> loop to pull it open, but I thought I’d ask if anyone else has replaced
> this latch.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Mike
>
> C&C 30-2  Limerick
>
> Anacortes, Wa.
>
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Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling & Drilling w_Epoxy

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Happy weekend all,



I am going to start re-bedding some hardware on our boat. I’m going with
butyl tape, but wanted to see what folks were using for “filling and
drilling” holes in the deck/core with epoxy, etc. Is *Git Rot* appropriate
for this job? I am looking for something easy to work with for when I have
a spare hour or two, i.e. less mixing/disposing cleanup the better.



Send suggestions and / or links to YouTube videos or other “How To” sites.



Thanks,

Kevin

30-2

PDX


Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493
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Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling & Drilling w_Epoxy

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Thanks everybody. Great information as usual.

KD



Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493


On Fri, Aug 8, 2014 at 11:55 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> This past winter, I pulled my sanitation pump out fitting and found some
> significant rot.  Dug it out and used Smiths clear penetrating epoxy to
> seal and fix the open wood grain.  They recommend rewetting frequently over
> the course of a few days to a week.  After it was curred I used west system
> to wet out the hole then west + colliodal silica to fill the hole.
>
> Everything else pretty much according to PBase.  I chose the Smith's
> because I could mix small batches as needed and have NO waste.  I bought
> their syringe too and really couldn't be happier.  Better price too.
>
> I'm suprised no one else mentioned this but one thing I probably should
> have done is made sure to remove any amine blush before applying
> sealant...time will tell.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Aug 8, 2014 11:42 AM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Happy weekend all,
>>
>>
>>
>> I am going to start re-bedding some hardware on our boat. I’m going with
>> butyl tape, but wanted to see what folks were using for “filling and
>> drilling” holes in the deck/core with epoxy, etc. Is *Git Rot*
>> appropriate for this job? I am looking for something easy to work with for
>> when I have a spare hour or two, i.e. less mixing/disposing cleanup the
>> better.
>>
>>
>>
>> Send suggestions and / or links to YouTube videos or other “How To” sites.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Kevin
>>
>> 30-2
>>
>> PDX
>>
>>
>> Kevin Driscoll
>> Portland,  Oregon
>> 503  //  875  //  3493
>>
>> ___
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>>
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Winches for sale

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Joel, own interested. Can you send pics? Thanks!

On Tue, Sep 29, 2015, 7:17 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> These came off a friend's Sabre 28:
>
> (2) Barlow Self-Tailing winches (Model 23)- $350 each - great shape,
> covered most of their life. Chrome over brass.
> (2) Barlow Single Speed winches (Model 20) - $100 each - more chrome
> pitting - work great.
>
> I can forward pictures and contact info if anyone is interested.
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Email address:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Here is a different approach, ie. DIY hard dodger. It is very intriguing to
me as the stitches begin to dissolve on our dodger though I would prefer to
use an FRP panel over Starboard...

http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/cruising-news/roger-dodger/

btw @ James Delaney, the picture of that outboard powered jet ski at the
mooring is excellent!

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 11:47 AM William Hall via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Which side of your wife is her non-working side?
>
> Sorry, that was off topic.
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:55 PM, David via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> Whatever basic dodge design you use I have one recommendation that I will
>> implement in my Dodger 2.0.  Try to have the dodger to deck joint as
>> tight/water-resistant as possible.  When it is snotty outside its nice to
>> keep those aggressive seas on the working side of the dodger and not
>> hydraulically scoping out your wife on the non-working side
>>
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981 40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>
>>
>> --
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 10:39:34 -0700
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> CC: dblair...@gmail.com
>>
>> Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional
>> although I think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase
>> the shade. I would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is
>> really going to limit the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini
>> needs to stand on the pushpit to not crowd access around the binnacle. The
>> PO had a complete enclosure built but I have the aft hoops in the garage as
>> they restrict movement significantly.  It is sunny today and I was going
>> down to check things anyway, so will send from my iPhone if you can give me
>> a number to text them to.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ciao
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *davepulaski
>> via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* davepulaski
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>>
>>
>>
>> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger
>> for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners
>> who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures!
>>
>>
>>
>> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
>>
>>
>>
>> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the
>> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with
>> putting a dodger on a 34+.
>>
>>
>>
>> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin
>> top.  Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger
>> side panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch
>> handle.
>>
>>
>>
>> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how
>> much does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This
>> is difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because
>> the bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any
>> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
>>
>>
>>
>> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back
>> does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my
>> #1 reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY
>> spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead
>> and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops
>> at the aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit
>> thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the
>> front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;
>>  not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit
>> in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical.
>>
>>
>>
>> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> ___ Email address:
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> Bill
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Fitting a Solent stay

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Saw this this morning...
http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/The-DIY-Solent-Stay-or-Inner-Forestay-11840-1.html?ET=practicalsailor:e30620:652553a:&st=email&s=p_waypoints101415

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 3:36 PM corralmaduzi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi there sailors,
> I've eventually become the proud owner of a C&C 40 and would like to know
> who has fitted a Solent-stay and if they could share the info on how to go
> about it.It will be for cruising and used either for going up-wind with a
> smaller Genoa or a storm-jib when necessary. I would appreciate any info.
> Thanks.
> Saltyspearo.
>
>
> Sent from my GT-I9305T on the Telstra 4G network
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Here is an article from Sail Magazine

just this week about fixing their hydrolock. Not incredibly detailed, but
optimistic!

On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 1:01 PM David Pulaski via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well this is a crappy way to end the season.  Short story is, I'm 99%
> positive that I managed to get water in the cylinders in my Yanmar 3GM30F,
> and now have a hydrolock.  Thankfully, the engine was not running when it
> happened, but I *did* attempt to crank the motor with the starter a couple
> of times before I realized what had happened.  So now, I'm worried  about
> significant damage from two angles:
>
> 1) Bent rods/crank/pistons?  I'm inclined to think that the starter motor
> doesn't have nearly as much torque as the engine operating under normal
> load, so I'm hoping that my attempts to crank didn't permanently do any
> damage such as this.  Thoughts?
>
> 2) Time: Unfortunately I can't get back there with tools and equipment to
> attempt to rectify the hydrolock until Sunday, which means the engine will
> have been sitting there with water in the cylinders for almost 4 days.
> It's mostly fresh / brackish water  (boat's on a mooring in a river
> mouth).  Chances of corrosion in the cylinders requiring a teardown?
>
> Anyone have any experiences with hydrolocks they'd care to share?
>
> Ugh...
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Painting Boat Name on Hull

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

A local sign maker made our lettering for ~$20. Looks great after many
seasons. Try someone outside of marine industry.

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:33 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd,
>
> You'll probably find that the vinyl will last longer than paint and be
> easier to remove/replace.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 22, 2015 10:53 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> After ten years, the vinyl lettering on the Enterprise is starting to
>> wear down. Instead of spending big bucks getting new vinyl made, I was
>> thinking of peeling the stuff off and painting the name/graphics on. What
>> type of paint do you suggest I use? Brightside?
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Most wifi routers are 12v. Just cut off the 110v power brick. Did this on
our router/boat. Works the same.

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 1:39 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179.  :-)
> Now I need a 12v WiFi router.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Just spent $200 on a flyer:
>
>
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin
>
> If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I've seen some IMOCA 60's (or similar) racing sleds run a vent line up a
lifeline stanchion to top lifeline. Seemed like a decent solution.

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 2:30 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We never had fuel or engine issues even in very bad weather going to
> Bermuda, so perhaps by blind luck C&C got the 35 MK I plumbed correctly.
>
> For a fuel vent for the race I would be tempted to run a hose about 6 feet
> up the backstay and have it do a U turn and go a couple feet back down. If
> THAT gets flooded you have other issues.
>
> I spent a night aboard a submarine that had some diesel leaks somewhere
> and my clothes stand so bad I had to get undressed when I got home and
> throw them out the door. NFW would I vent a fuel tank into the cabin. YMMV.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Paine via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 28, 2015 1:31 PM
>
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* David Paine
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
>
>
>
> Thanks David!
>
>
>
> On the topic of Solent stays, I think I have two options.  (1) A true
> removable Solent supported  at the top of the mast by the backstay and at
> the deck near the bow fitting  or (2) possibly, a staysail stay supported
> at the spreaders (one set) by the aft lowers and at the midforedeck via the
> track that is there (not sure why) with a supporting below-deck cable (in
> line with the stay of course)  to a bulkhead.  Not having to crawl to the
> bow in a blow,  COE moved further back, and possibly better sheeting angles
> are potential benefits.  The Solent seems like a much easier option with
> more varied (larger) sails possible.   I'll have to ponder this a bit!
>
>
>
> On the topic of internal venting -- I am embarrassed (and proud) to admit
> that I still have an Atomic 4 gas engine so internal venting is not a great
> option for me.
>
>
>
> On GRIBS, I had a sat phone on this trip and probably should have figured
> out how to use it to download gribs but was too busy before departure to
> figure that out.   I will next time.  Thanks.
>
>
>
> On reefing -- yes, a cam cleat or three clutches would help a lot.
> Managing all the loose reefing lines at the boom, particularly after the
> third reef, is also a bother when the boat is pitching and the wind is
> howling.   I was glad to have a line bag at the boom but all that line can
> be hazardous!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 11:05 AM, David via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair.   Some suggestions;
>
>
>
> *(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did
> repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good
> as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or
> creating a waterproof cover. *Same problem.  Covered it  with the plastic
> used on cars to protect the paint on the nose.  Conforms to the panel
> pretty well.  Not perfect but keeps the most of the water out of the
> electrics.  Can still hear alarm too.
>
>
>
>
> *(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but
> by the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I
> siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the
> vent -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I
> wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have
> removed)   A better solution is needed. *
> I vent water tanks internally when going offshore.   After fueling perhaps
> vent it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close
> when engine off to avoid extreme weather spillage.
>
>
>
>
> *(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time
> screwing up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My
> current reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the
> boom which makes the first reef fine but I used all three reef points and
> releasing the last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is
> a nightmare.   I need to work on leading the lines to the cockpit. *
> A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may
> help.
>
>
>
>
> *(6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My
> new furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed
> up the shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130. *
> I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4.Best thing I ever
> did.  Contact me off-line if you need details
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *(11) Getting a decent weather (GRIB) file occasionally would have been
> really helpful.   I suppose I need to figure out how to do a SSB or Sat
> phone modem. *
> I rent a SatPhone from satelitephonestore.com who explained how to
> download the small Grib files from Passage Weather 

Re: Stus-List smart phones

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

+1 for Dwight's sentiment. Let's just be honest, Stu's list is painful to
search or recall useful, older info/discussions, so let's not bother folks
who are active on the list and keep it alive with their input, about
subject line protocol that isn't worth salt anyway.

Whining from the west coast Russ😁 My two cents..… emoticon, emoticon,
emoticon (field code error)

On Fri, Oct 30, 2015, 9:24 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List cnc-list.com > wrote:


Umm. Okay Dwight. Thanks for

sentiments

Your time stamp looks like it's getting late on the eastern seaboard. Maybe
back off on the whine a bit. And those funny field codes looks like you
sent from a smart phone.

So I guess my question is, if it's a smart phone then how did your message
get through?  :)

Cheers, Russ
*Sweet *35 mk-1

At 08:39 PM 30/10/2015, you wrote:

most of these guys apparently don't care about the subject line...so
sending these instructions won't change things, just let them contribute to
whatever about their boats and experiences and forget the subject line
crap...just say all subjects C&C sailboat related stuff, we're all
interested in everything sailboat related...that's the way I regard these
emails, all related to sailing somehow, read them or not ...ok You can ban
me from further communication the topics are getting pretty old anyway  Â
                                     Â
                                     Â
                                     Â
        Â

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net

On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 4:08 PM, Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:
Terry et al
Â
When replying to a message from your email program – leave thee subject
intact as it should refer to the topic being discussed.
Â
If you are starting a new thread, send an email to the list with an
appropriate subject line.
Â
Yes, it will make searching the archives a lot simpler.
Â
Remember too, when replying to a message, to trim off the previous
messages.  There is no reason to send a 60k message when 10 would have
done it.
Â
Stu


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Re: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I asked this same question about two years ago and tried both techniques. I
found for myself that stuffing an absorbent pad around the filter was the
best and least messy solution. I tried the bag trick twice but it actually
made more of a mess because you just can't twist the filter very fast with
the bag on, especially once the oil actually gets in the bag and lubricates
the entire outside of the filter.

Just get the pad good and stuffed in at the base of the filter. It's the
best way for me.

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015, 5:49 AM Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The ziplock bag helps.  If you want to have less oil in the filter,
> punching a hole in the top with a screwdriver before you drain the oil also
> helps, but there will be something to wipe up in any case.
>
> Tim
>
> > On Oct 31, 2015, at 8:41 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > One neat trick I learned at a diesel clinic is, slide a gallon zip lock
> up around the filter & then unscrew it letting it drip into the bag, then
> drop the filter into the bag and seal.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Coleman
> > C&C39
> >
> >
> >  Original message 
> > From: Indigo via CnC-List 
> > Date: 10/31/2015 8:16 AM (GMT-05:00)
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Indigo 
> > Subject: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf
> >
> > I will be winterizing indigo tomorrow. I am looking for help from this
> amazing group on techniques used to change the oil filter while minimizing
> drips and spills.  I don't seem to be able to get the old filter off
> without dripping oil down the side of the engine. What am I doing wrong?
> >
> > --
> > Jonathan
> > Indigo C&C 35III
> > SOUTHPORT CT
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Qest fittings. I had to order my replacement online. Couldn't find them
locally.

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015, 6:09 AM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> They look like Qest fittings--nothing special. Available at True Vale
> Hardware...
>
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
>
> On Oct 31, 2015, at 5:24 AM, Terry via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Here is a pic of the part, it is the white coupler on top of pump. I'm
> going to the boat this weekend and try to find make and model on the pump
> [image: image1.JPG]
> Thanks
> Terry Pearson
> 1896 C&C 33 MKII
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 30, 2015, at 9:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If I may add, take pictures and make them available (DropBox, Google+,
> OneDrive, whatever is your favourite place to share pictures). It would be
> substantially easier to figure out what you need if others could see what
> is broken.
>
>
>
> Be aware that a lot of marine plumbing is common with the RVs; so you may
> have luck visiting a local RV place (with the broken part in hand). Don’t
> count that any fittings from a hardware store would work (different
> threads, different diameters).
>
>
>
> Good luck
>
>
>
> Marek Dziedzic
>
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* October-30-15 21:28
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List plumbing problem
>
>
>
> Hey Terry,
>
> Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our
> boats are varied in nature and not particularly C&C specific.  Your best
> bet is to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a
> discharge check valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any
> luck get back to us with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.
>
> Warm regards,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons,
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C lister in Cuba Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Interesting to see how the 34+ corrected against much larger boats. Also
interesting that nearly every boat is a cruising boat. Would have suspected
more than just a couple of performance oriented boats.

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015, 3:26 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> The Pensacola to Havana Race started this morning.  One of our listers,
> Steve Thorne on "Deja Vu", C&C 34+, is competing.  Follow him at:
>
> 
>
> Race website:  
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C lister in Cuba Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I was just talking about the entry list, but will keep that in mind when
looking at tracker. Would be very cool to finish a face in Cuba!

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015, 8:09 PM Dennis C.  wrote:

> Be careful when looking at the tracker data.  Click on the individual boat
> and see when the last update is.  On the plot, you might see a slower
> cruiser way ahead of a fast racer only to find the racer's last positional
> data is hours old.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 8:48 PM, Kevin Driscoll 
> wrote:
>
>> Interesting to see how the 34+ corrected against much larger boats. Also
>> interesting that nearly every boat is a cruising boat. Would have suspected
>> more than just a couple of performance oriented boats.
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 31, 2015, 3:26 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The Pensacola to Havana Race started this morning.  One of our listers,
>>> Steve Thorne on "Deja Vu", C&C 34+, is competing.  Follow him at:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Race website:  
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>
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Stus-List Volvo Ardic Heater Help

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

My heater/furnace is working, but runs quite rich. There is very little
info online that I can find. I've opened up the heater, but there was no
apparent way that I saw to dial back the fuel delivery.
Has anybody experience with this heater or can intuit what could be causing
this heater to run rich? Our boat is an 1989 C&C 30mkII. I assume the
heater to be of the same vintage.

Thanks,
Kevin 30-2
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Re: Stus-List Bad Build

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Obviously something went very wrong with Polina Star, but I did find
Charles Doane's take on it more than speculative and a bit of irresponsible
yachting journalism IMO. I will be interested to see the findings of fact
when they are available.

Glad we have C&C's. They can do no wrong ;)

On Fri, Dec 4, 2015 at 3:02 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting read about what appears to be some shoddy construction methods.
>
> Thanks to C& C for doing things right.
>
>
> http://www.sailfeed.com/2015/12/another-major-keel-failure-what-really-happened-to-polina-star-iii/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=textlink&utm_campaign=enewsletter
>
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> >
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Venetian parade

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

We do Christmas ships every year and usually go out about 5 nights per
season. I have a cheapish 500 watt (peak) Stanley inverter wired directly
to one of my house battery's with a flat wire plug and about a 18" lead
with an inline fuse of course. We run all LEDs. On our 30-2 we run lights
up the mast, zipped around the toe rail, and looped around the lifelines.
Total light length is 200'. I haven't added up the accumulated but suspect
I nave room for more. First year I used or cigarette lighter at the nav
station with no issues, but we've added lights and feel better about the
direct connection. Someone can shout me down about the assymetric load on
my house bank of (2) group 27s.

The parade is quite fun for friends and colleagues. Quite a bit of
work/concentration for the skipper and occasionally hard on the boat
depending on the debris load in the river... If you boat on one.
Incidentally, many people used generators when we started. Very few have
them anymore.

Kevin
Osprey
30-2 Portland

On Sat, Dec 19, 2015, 10:26 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I'd have to look but I think it's something like a 100 amp fuse.  I think
> the wires are something like 2 or 4 AWG. I know the cables are substantial
> and I had to locate the inverter for minimum wire run, like under 10 feet
> total.  I did the calculations using the Blue Sea app.
>
> DIY's are usually surprised when they start sizing cables for the 12 VDC
> side of an inverter install.
>
> I'm helping a buddy with a 2000W inverter install.  We're using 2AWG
> cables with a wire run under 4 feet total.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 19, 2015 at 11:08 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis,
>>
>>
>>
>> If you were pulling 830 watts from the inverter, that’s 69 amps @ 12
>> volts!  How big a fuse do you have on your inverter?  My 600 watt inverter
>> uses a 50 amp fuse.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

My (Feathering, not folding) Max Prop  2 blade is excellent in reverse as
well. Of course, you should look at the oft cited Practical Sailor report
on folding and feathering props for more objective opinions. Should be easy
to find

Kevin
30-2
PDX

On Tue, Dec 22, 2015 at 9:32 AM Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a Gori 2 blade 11.5 x 8 on Windburn, a 77 30-1 with an Atomic 4 (
> Stevedore ).
> My guess is that at 8 it is over pitched but 11.5 x 8 appears to be the
> smallest standard
> Gori prop size. I can get to about 6.2 kts into light weather, and can tow
> another 10,000 lb
> boat into waves at 5 kts. Reverse is fine though full power at a
> standstill can invoke a lot
> of prop walk.
>
> The advantage of being over pitched is that during light motor sailing the
> Atomic 4 is just
> above idle, quiet and smooth.
>
> I have no complaints, though I usually am under auxiliary only coming in
> and out of the club.
> If your usage included days of motoring into current and waves and as a
> cruiser you are
> carrying more weight ( Windburn is pretty light for racing ) then I would
> be concerned about
> the 8 pitch. When I spoke with a Gori rep at the Toronto boat show he
> mentioned they can
> make the props at different pitches.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>
> Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 10:10:28 -0500
> From: cenel...@aol.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4
>
> Message-ID: <151ca3dd4c9-520f-...@webprd-m99.mail.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a
> geared one so that you can be sure that it opened.
>
> If you race, the lowest drag 2 blade demonstrated by tests in Yachting
> magazine was a Gori--which I have used for several years without problems.
>
> It takes a few seconds running in reverse to start 'biting' and moving the
> boat but she will move the boat. Once the boat is moving,
> you start to get some flow over the rudder and can actually steer.
>
> Just be sure you have reasonable room around the boat when you go to
> reverse.
>
> In my case, I coast to almost a dead stop, put it in reverse and rev the
> engine to get her moving
> in reverse and then steer her toward the slip with judicious use of low
> throttle in reverse or neutral.
>
> Without serious wind or tides, this method works for me--she only goes
> back into forward to stop her in the slip.
> If something messes up this scheme, back to open water and repeat!
>
> Maneuvering in close quarters between reverse and forward with several
> seconds delay is to be avoided with any folding prop IMHO.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Source for Sturgeron?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I ordered some through canadadrugsonline.com last week to prep my kit for
Pacific Cup in July. 25mg...so I will have to see how it affects me. I've
used Scopalamine patches and they work, but I am not in love with them and
if it's really rough, I still get woozy doing anything below. $29 for the
100ct pills and $10 for shipping. They are sourced from India. I'll have
time to mess around with them and see how they work.

Kevin
*Osprey*
Portland, OR
30-2

On Thu, Jan 14, 2016 at 7:43 AM Colin Kilgour via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Guys,
>
> I've used Stugeron a lot and highly recommend it to all my crew when we go
> offshore.  I take it for the first 36 hours or so at sea and then that will
> be it for the trip (that's just me though.  I tend not to get seasick)  The
> only time I've had seasick crew is when one guy didn't take it.  I've also
> never had myself or anyone on board experience any side effects.
>
> You can't get it in Canada or the US though.  But, if's over the counter
> and relatively inexpensive in places like the UK and Bermuda.  Best bet
> would be to find a friend or family member there who will send you some. Or
> pick up some when you're traveling.  If not, the online pharmacies are
> probably fine.
>
> Get the 15mg dosage.  Anything more than that is probably more than you
> need and might invite some of the side effects that people talk about.
>
> Cheers,
> Colin
> Bojangles IV
>
> On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 10:39 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The only thing I would like to mention here is that many of these drugs
>> have side effects and interactions with other drugs.
>>
>> I am not sure if it was this list or some other sailing forum, where I
>> read a discussion on some ill effects of taking certain sea-sickness drugs
>> without consulting with a doctor. Some of the reports were a bit scary.
>> This is half bad if you get hit by some of the interactions, but you are
>> just a crew; much worse if you are the skipper (or you are single handling).
>>
>> I guess this is getting more important as many of us are getting “wiser”
>> (read: older) and we start taking certain drugs on a regular basis (high
>> pressure, cholesterol, etc.).
>>
>> Just my $0.02
>>
>> Marek
>> C270, Ottawa, ON
>>
>> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Friday, January 8, 2016 10:30
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Source for Sturgeron?
>>
>>
>> Thanks for that link Rick,
>>
>> I didn’t realise you could game the system like that, the last time I
>> tried that it didn’t work. Maybe it is because, as someone mentioned, that
>> they actually source it out of UK. Interesting.
>>
>>
>>
>> One other note, even tho I want the Sturgeron for variety, I regularly
>> use Scopace, which is the pill form of Scopaline. It is good for around 8
>> hrs, instead of 3 days, and less side effects. I had my doc at the time
>> write a scrip for a bunch of them, and I regularly give them to crew who I
>> know or suspect may be at risk, and have never had an incident with the
>> Scopace. It also gives you cotton mouth, but it diminishes after a couple
>> hours. Besides, it makes me drink more water, which I need anyway.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> C&C 39
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List 93 37+ for sale cheap!

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

There is a very nice "Nina" in Portland with a white hull. Owned by
Kimberly and Jeff Duvall. They bought her about 2-3 yrs ago?

On Wed, Jan 20, 2016 at 11:59 AM David Donnelly via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> No it was not Nina. The listing broker could not pronounce the Irish name
> when I asked and they didn't list it in the ad.
>
> David Donnelly
> C&C 26 Mistress
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung device
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

http://www.goodoldboat.com/pdfs/GOB86HotWater.pdf

On Sat, Feb 6, 2016 at 10:25 AM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey!  That's me!!!  :-)
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-02-06 11:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
>
> One of our fellow CnC listers did a Hydronic install in his own boat and
> had an article published in the magazine Good Old Boat about it:
>
> HOT WATER, WARM BOAT
> BY GRAHAM COLLINS
>
> A hydronic system extends the sailing (and showering) season. Our C&C 35,
> Secret Plans, was previously used as a racing boat, so the hot-water system
> was stripped out at some time before we purchased her. As I’m not a fan of
> cold showers, this had to be addressed. We also wanted to be able to heat
> the boat so we could extend our cruising season a bit longer into the
> spring and fall. We keep the boat on a mooring, so shorepower is not
> typically available. The available fuel sources were diesel and propane,
> and we wanted to install only one system...
>
> *Article Number:* 5583
> *Issue:* 86 - September/October 2012
> *Page No:* 27-29
> *Read Online:* Not Available Online
>
> On 6 February 2016 at 11:48, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake
>> Ontario I have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to
>> heat we would have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat
>> show I gather materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear
>> of screwing the installation up makes me put it off another year.
>>
>> Anyone have a hydronic setup?
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>> > On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 8
>> > Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
>> > From: Russ & Melody 
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>> > Message-ID:
>> >
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>> >
>> >
>> > Hi Steve,
>> >
>> > I should have listed install location in the
>> > "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>> >
>> > The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
>> > unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
>> > on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
>> > Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>> >
>> > Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
>> > location with proper venting is the same for
>> > both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
>> > tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
>> > if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
>> > going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
>> > get a little impulse pump similar to what the
>> > Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
>> > the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
>> > easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
>> > outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
>> > tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
>> > use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>> >
>> > On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
>> > retirement cruising I will have both types of
>> > heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>> >
>> > Cheers, Russ
>> > Sweet 35 mk-1
>> > Vancouver Island
>> >
>> >
>> > At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>> >> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>> >>
>> >> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
>> >> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
>> >> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>> >> favourite things. But the only units worth
>> >> getting are expensive wood stove types, which
>> >> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
>> >> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
>> >> appealing because it's out of the way. The
>> >> problem for me with the diesel newport is the
>> >> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
>> >> really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>> >> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
>> >> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
>> >> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
>> >> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about
>> >> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about
>> >> them is good however and to your point, maybe
>> >> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's
>> >> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
>> >>
>> >> Steve
>> >> Suhana, C&C 32
>> >> Toronto
>> >>
>> >> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
>> >> via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>> >> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use
>> >> a propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6
>> >> hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat.
>> >> It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine
>> evening.?
>> >>
>> >> Andy
>> >> C&C 40
>> >

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I tried another Butyl brand besides "Bed it" and I regret it. I have since
used "Bed it". You can find it elsewhere than Mainesail and Hamilton, but I
found price to be about the same. I went with Mainsail.

On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 8:22 AM Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the correction. I meant Hamiliton, but typed Defender!
>
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 2/9/2016 11:16 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Defender doesn't sell it. They sell Life Safe butyl tape, which as far as
> I can tell is not the same as Bed-It. (besides the name, the color of the
> tape is also different so I assume it's not just a rebranding of an
> identical product).
>
> I bought Bed-it tape from Hamilton Marine. That was the only marine store
> I found that sold it. I wanted only one roll and MaineSail ships min two. I
> assumed buying through Hamilton Marine still supports him though, since
> he's the inventor of it.
>
> http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/butyl-tape-bed-it-1-2-x-50-roll-755207-/4,59595.html
>
> On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 7:41 AM,  wrote:
>
>> From: Bill Bina - gmail 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:36:50 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
>> ONLY use Bed-it brand. The others are not the same thing. Defender
>> carries or you can get it from:
>>
>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>>
>> Bill Bina
>>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

That vent looks like a wicked line snagger!

On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 10:32 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Electric fuel pump switch.
> Brilliant!
>
> Thanks Joe!
> I've decided on the Newport Diesel bulkhead job. It's going to end up
> looking something like this (thought the heater in the pic is the propane
> version):
>
>
> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
> with a day tank up and behind in the hanging locker.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 9:36 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I would think twice, three times, and four times before adding any kind
>> of combustion heater to a gasoline powered boat. Not only can the heater
>> itself suck gasoline fumes into itself, any of the associated controls and
>> fans might or might not be ignition protected. I know, like every other C&C
>> ever made with an Atomic 4, I cook below with an open flame, but that is a
>> bit different. Most of us would not start the stove if we smelled gasoline
>> fumes and most of us are not leaving the stove run all night while we
>> sleep.
>>
>> If I were to do this, I would start by having the heater well away from
>> the engine and mounted as high as possible. Make sure the heater is about
>> the LAST place in the boat gas fumes would end up.
>>
>> Second step would be to install a gasoline fume detector and make sure it
>> is on whenever the heater is on.
>>
>> Third step is do rig your engine to run the gas out of the carb at
>> shutdown. When I am done with the engine for the day I switch off my
>> electric fuel pump and let the engine run the gas out of the carb and line.
>> This prevents the issue of a stuck needle-valve slowly filling the carb
>> overnight and dispersing fumes. A side benefit is the carb lasts much much
>> longer before it needs cleaning.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>> C&C 35 MK I
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Graham
>> Collins via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Sunday, February 07, 2016 19:23
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Graham Collins
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Bill
>>
>> It might be worth contacting Espar about it, I don't think that should be
>> running like that.  The D5 I'm running is a fair sized unit, and startup
>> has never been a big power hit.
>>
>> Graham Collins
>>
>> Secret Plans
>>
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2016-02-06 5:17 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Graham,
>>Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner
>> installed in port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well done,
>> but he told me about current draw and starting engine to get it going.
>> After its running seems to do fine off twin house batteries.
>> Bill Walker
>> CnC  36
>> Pentwater, Mi
>>
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is
>> clear of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to
>> the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have
>> flammable vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...
>>
>> And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two
>> while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be
>> adequate.
>>
>> I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off
>> batteries all the time and have never had an issue.
>>
>> Graham Collins
>>
>> Secret Plans
>>
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> I'm reading the marine installation manual
>> 
>> and have some questions:
>>
>>
>>
>> - Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not
>> allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline
>> tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of
>> these?
>>
>>
>>
>> - Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small
>> that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the
>> lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Russ,
>>
>>
>>
>> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind
>> the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the
>> espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this
>> is pretty much how i have to mount it:
>>
>>
>> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimag

Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

We use them on the J42 I crew on and they work great. I recently made one
with help from a friend and it was somewhat easy. We have a cow hitch on
Osprey with our Endura braid single line/sheet, but I would like to splice
an eye and use soft shackles. After that cow hitch is set it is a pain to
open and change headsails.

30-2
Osprey

On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 11:18 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I followed the directions on L-36.com for a better soft shackle.  have not
> used them with sheets, but there is very little of it to catch on anything.
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 2:14 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't know how they work in action on a boat. However, they can be made
>> relatively easily from single braid line (IIRC) using videos and
>> instructions from the web.
>>
>> I came across several of the above as I searched the web for splicing an
>> eye loop in double braid line. Of course you may not 'get it' on the first
>> or second attempt but all you have lost is a bit of line and some time. It
>> took me 2 total failures before I 'got it', trying to splice and eye in a
>> double braid where the inner core provided all the strength (Class II
>> splice). Right now I am 3 for 5.
>> You might need a set of fids and a serious knife/scissors, etc., but if
>> you can't get out and sail anyway because of the weather, doing a little
>> 'nautical weaving' indoors can be a nice diversion!
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>> Greenville, NC
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: John Russo via CnC-List 
>> To: CnC-List 
>> Cc: John Russo 
>> Sent: Wed, Feb 17, 2016 11:04 am
>> Subject: Stus-List Soft shackle
>>
>> Is anyone using a soft shackle to attach the Jib clew to the sheet?  If
>> so what brand and any problems in operation like catching on shrouds.
>>
>> John
>> Arpeggio
>> 1984 C&C 32
>> NorwalkCT
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I bought the one West Marine is selling last year during a similar sale. I
returned it. Problem was the waist belt would not stay tight or in same
position. I would tighten, 5 minutes later it was loose... If I ended up in
the water, it would have immediately ridden up and limited my mobility and
effective flotation. I would pass on this one.

On Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 9:08 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Wow. The Mustang auto-inflate @ 130USD.  And aren't these the guys who
> invented the things for small vessel use?
>
>
> http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9522&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feb_2016_W&utm_content=Feb_2016_W+CID_c4bb422e2936dbe7b9f540a4e791ee92&utm_source=newsletter&utm_term=MUSTANG%20HYDROSTATIC%20INFLATABLE%20VEST
>
>  Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
> Vancouver Island
>
> At 07:57 AM 19/02/2016, you wrote:
>
> Don’t know if mustangs interest anyone ,
> But they are on sale in Canada , I’m sure USD makes them a better deal)
>
>
>
>
>
> *Tim Sippel *C&C 33mkii
>  Matico
> *From:* CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Della Barba, Joe via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, February 19, 2016 10:20 AM
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness
>
> I have both West and Spinlock harnesses on my boat. IMHO the Spinlock is
> much better and certainly is more comfortable. The West Marine version is
> still way better than none if you want to save some cash. I bought the
> cheap one and then my lovely wife got me a Spinlock for Christmas J J
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> *From:* CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Andrew Burton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, February 19, 2016 10:16 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Burton
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness
>
> Just a note about the Spinlock harness, which most offshore sailors think
> is the best harness going: I have spoken to the company reps and the reason
> it's not CG certified is that the process is so long and expensive that it
> isn't worth their while.
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> On Fri, Feb 19, 2016 at 9:48 AM, jhnelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Just fyi..if you are planning to use it for sanctioned offshore race it
> would need to be modified to have leg straps.  Otherwise it is very similar
> to mine and is very comfy for round the buoys and coastal.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung device
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
> Date: 2016-02-19 10:11 AM (GMT-04:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
> Subject: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness
>
>
> West Marine has an automatic inflatable harness on sale today only for 150
> bucks. (U.S.)
>
> I have no experience with the product, but I just paid more than twice
> that much for a Spinlock product that is not even coast guard certified.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36
> Merritt Island, FL
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
>
>
>
> --
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the
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>
>
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Stus-List Blakely Rock Sat 3/5 - Center Sound Series (Greater Seattle)

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I am headed up to Seattle to crew for the Blakely Rock Race Saturday 3/5.
Anybody on the list racing?
http://www.cycseattle.org/event/center-sound-series-1-blakely-rock/
___

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Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Allen, I will grab a photo and dimensions of our hatch on our 30-2 this
weekend when we are on the boat. Ours isn't a nice looking wood hatch, but
it's the head and behind the door, and waterproof so it works fine for our
needs.

KD

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 7:26 AM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Allen,
>
>
>
> I have a nice looking wood access panel in the head on our 30-2, I will
> grab some pictures for you this weekend.
>
>
>
> Jim Reinardy
>
> C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
>
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *allen via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Thursday, March 17, 2016 8:08 AM
> *To: *cnc-list 
> *Cc: *allen ; Peter Patterson
> 
>
>
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
> I'd like to see pics too.  Clearance is tight on 30-2 and hatch access
> from head is something I would like to do too.
>
> Allen Miles
> S/v Septima  30-2
> Hampton, VA
>
> *From:* Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 17, 2016 7:44 AM
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* Ken Heaton  ; Peter Patterson
> 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
>
> Hello David,
>
> I'd like to see the photos and measurements too if you don't mind.  We
> were planning to do this soon.
>
> Our boat was re powered in 2000 with a different model of Yanmar and some
> components (such as the raw water pump impeller) would be much more easily
> accessed with a water proof hatch through the shower stall wall.
>
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>
> On 16 March 2016 at 20:58, djmocny via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Edd,  ours was done by the PO.  I will take photos and get measurements
> for you.  Will email this weekend or sooner.
>
> David Mocny
> 37/40+
> Obsession
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Date: 03/16/2016 2:43 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
>
> To the Listers with 37+’s, R’s, or XL’s,
>
> I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other
> side of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done
> this? If so, could you send photos?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
> --
>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

On our 30 mkII we have an 8" screw access port in the port cabin for
access. In the head we have an access hatch for dipstick etc. The hatch is
much more preferable. Something similar to this.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/tempress--access-hatches-with-slam-or-cam-latches--P024_720_002_003

Couldn't imagine what I would do without either!

On Wed, Mar 16, 2016 at 12:07 PM David Blair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did that on a 30 Mk ii a few years ago – centered the opening over the
> dipstick and fuel pump areas.  Easy to do, being careful to avoid hoses on
> the other side. Used a screw in access port about 6” diameter – could have
> been larger.  Boat sold now so no pics, sorry..
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Edd
> Schillay via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 16, 2016 11:44 AM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Edd Schillay
> *Subject:* Stus-List 37+ (or R or XL) Engine Access
>
>
>
> To the Listers with 37+’s, R’s, or XL’s,
>
>
>
> I had an idea to add a hatch in the head to provide access to the other
> side of the engine (starter, alternator wires, etc.)  Have any of you done
> this? If so, could you send photos?
>
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Edd
>
>
>
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>
> Starship Enterprise
>
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
> City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List masthead sheaves

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Just a thought, but why not splice some dyneema to a rope for your halyard?
You could use same sheaves and have a halyard that is lighter, cheaper,
corrosion free, etc. I am hoping to replace the last wire halyard on our
boat like this when I get a chance

On Fri, Mar 18, 2016, 5:56 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Usually, all that is needed to refurbish these sheaves is to press out and
> replace the oilite bronze bushing, widely available at auto parts stores or
> bearing suppliers. I did all my masthead sheaves a few years ago, got the
> bushings at Princess Auto.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
> St Margarets Bay, NS
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Not sure how a piece of line would keep a furled sail flat, as it should
be. I see the wisdom of a foam luff. I regularly see furled sailed in highs
winds with a big belly to them, exactly what you don't want cf course. If I
were buying a new sail, I would definitely have  a foam luff or plan on
head sail changes when the wind pipes, which is what we do.

KD

On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 1:59 PM sthoma20--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My sail maker sewed a piece of line into a pocket instead of using foam.
> His thinking is that the line will never collapse.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>  Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote:
> I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and
> would like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a
> foam luff.  In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that
> regardless of the foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to
> be ideal.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> — Fred
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Definitely get a Cunningham so you can properly trim the main upwind in a
breeze. I here you on price. That $1500 sounds very reasonable!

On Fri, Mar 25, 2016, 6:44 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 135 came from There. I am very pleased with it and would not hesitate
> to buy from them again. The flow stripes are also known as draft stripes.
> Just colored tape to let you see how much of a belly you having your sail
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Friday, March 25, 2016, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey all -
>>
>> As part of the long list of refinements and upgrades we need to make on
>> the Safari, we’re looking at getting a new main sail from Rolly Tasker via
>> National Sails in FL. Here’s the details of the quote:
>>
>> *C&C 34 *(Does anybody feel like confirming that I’ve got these
>> measurements correct?)
>> I = 44’
>> J = 14
>> P = 38.25
>> E  = 10.92
>>
>> *Fully Battened Mainsail - *Challenge 8.3oz High Modulus Dacron, 2 reefs
>> - $1,459
>> Comes with leech lines with clam cleats, tell tales, flo-stripes*, and
>> sail bags. Construction includes triple-stitched seams, large radial corner
>> reinforcements, with handsewn leather chafe protection.
>>
>>
>> Seems like 8 out of 10 folks have overall positive experience with RT
>> sails. There are scattered reports of quality issues, but I’m inclined to
>> see that as a risk of any production sail loft. Have any of you ordered
>> from them before? What’s been your experience? I’m inquiring about adding a
>> cunningham and seeing what our options are for the slugs. Are there other
>> options you’d recommend I request?
>>
>> Before anybody suggests I go to a custom sailmaker to get a super high
>> quality sail, the price is really what we can afford right now; if we need
>> to spend more money to get a decent sail then we’ll have to wait another
>> season or two to replace our (very tired) main. Willing to do that if
>> enough folks wave us off RT, but hoping this could be a great solution for
>> our casual cruising needs!
>>
>> Andrew
>>
>> *What the heck are Flo-Stripes?
>> --
>> Andrew Means
>> S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 MK I
>> Seattle, WA
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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Re: Stus-List jacklines for an LF 38

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I am sure others will way in, but nylon webbing 6000# breaking strength is
recommended by most racing bodies. Also, the strength will diminish in
proportion to uv exposure, so we stow them when not on the boat. I run them
to bow and stern cleats as others have mentioned since lack of backed pad
eyes capable of resisting a worst case scenario.

We use these 2x retractable tethers which are current with latest safety
best practices:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63677

KD

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 1:47 PM Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Many thanks to all. Do you guys run line or strap, and what size?
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Jacklines on an LF 38

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Agreed. Inside shrouds sounds like a recipe for more time on deck, clipping
and unclipping at a time when it is best avoided. Being able to quickly
clip on and run forward ( the windward side) to clear a fouled sheet etc,
presents a far lower risk, in my mind, to life and gear than having to move
more slowly and un clipping/reclipping necessitated with a centerline set
up. (even with double tether)

Stantions are not a place for rigging life lines as mentioned.

On Mon, Mar 16, 2015, 12:26 PM Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I know the logic behind leading the jack lines inside the shrouds, (close
> to the centerline etc), but on the 35-5 I find the easiest way forward is
> to go outside the shrouds on the windward side. Most of my tethers are
> single point attachment, so I don't want crew using them to unclip at any
> time once out of the cockpit. Short of buying new tethers, should I be
> doing something different
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> > On Mar 16, 2015, at 15:01, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > inside the shrouds
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List friends from list

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Do we have any idea about the *hard costs* for running this list? I've
never seen a cost of operation breakdown. (Though it could be buried
somewhere in the "archive") I personally would be more likely to donate if
I knew the cost of this public forum, which is founded on the generosity of
knowledge and time from a great C&C community. This is what I would and do
ask of any non profit that benefits from the time and energy of others.


On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 2:32 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Graham, today I had lunch with two of those people you met in Vancouver,
> and I have met quite a few others from the same forum previously. I'm not
> sure, but I think of the people that have come for a sail on PShift, more
> were from the C&C list than from forums, but it really doesn't matter one
> way or another.
>
> I really don't think it matters much what kind of interface we prefer, the
> folks on this list do an excellent job of self-policing and that would
> translate to a forum too. I think I have only driven a couple away myself,
> however. (evil grin).
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 16 March 2015 at 13:34, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Mike, you are way too big to be a troll.
>>
>> I have to disagree a bit, it depends on the forum.  I just got back from
>> Vancouver where I met with 4 people I know from a forum, I consider them to
>> be friends.  Yes the big ones that is less likely, but I've actually met a
>> few folks that I know of from Sailing Anarchy.  From this site I've met a
>> few folks, although Bob Abbott has never been closer than a boatlength.
>>
>> But I am on the side of the email list on this - I prefer the emails
>> coming to me vs having to go check another web site.
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2015-03-16 9:40 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>  I have personally met several people who came from this list.  Also on the 
>> J27 Yahoo group with its email list I met a couple people.  I have never met 
>> a single person through any forum
>>
>>
>>
>> I have met and chatted with Bob Abbott and Rich Knowles because I knew their 
>> names and boats from the list   I have been on both of their boats
>>
>>
>>
>> I have had many email conversations with Harry Hallgring and he even did a 
>> visual inspection of my current boat while I was in the process of 
>> purchasing it.  Our paths did not cross in New Bedford, Mass unfortunately 
>> due to time constraints but I do consider many on this list to be friends.
>>
>>
>>
>> Forums have to be checked.  Lists come to you.  Many of us prefer the 
>> messages coming to us rather than going to look.  Also like many others I do 
>> use forums like sailnet as well but not very often anymore.
>>
>>
>>
>> So I guess to me LIST = FRIENDS = COMMUNITY.  Forum = Impersonal and 
>> anonymity.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> List Troll
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>
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Stus-List Restoring Grip to Winches

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Any suggestions for restoring grip to old winches? Mainly I would like to
rejuvenate my Barient 24's to grip my new line better. I am looking for the
cheapest and easiest solution. I am not above adding texture with a dremel
to the drum or the self tailer.

What has been your experience?

Thanks,
Kevin
30-2
___

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Re: Stus-List Wheelpilot ST-4000 bracket...

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Spencer,

Judging from your email, you do not have the 4000 anymore? I still have
mine and would love to buy any extras you may still have for the 4000. I do
not need the bracket however.

An upgraded pilot would be nice for our boat, but a baby is on the way (in
2 weeks) and I am hoping to upgrade to a 34+/36 in a 3-5 yrs time. So I
want to be conscious about what I sink into our 30-2.

Thanks,
Kevin

On Mon, Mar 30, 2015 at 6:46 PM Spencer Johnson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> MANY moons ago...some lister was inquiring about the availability of a
> ST4000 head mount bracket.  I just removed one from my nav station and
> would be happy to send it to a lister that has a need.
>
>  This is just the bracket that has a 'v'  mounting wedgie to hold the
> head unit when not in useor the same bracket is used in the cockpit.
>
>  I upgraded to the Raymarine SPS-5 Wheelpilot (with a 17,000lbs+ boat)
> and have been quite pleased.
>
>  Please contact me for pics and mailing instructions.
>
>  BIGGIE upgrade this year...pedestal and all new Raymarine equipment...$$$
>
>  Spencer Johnson
> 1984 C&C LF 38 "Alegria"  # 165
> Mount Prospect, IL
> (Summer - Reefpoint Marina, Racine, WI)
>
>
>  ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C in Sail Magazine

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Looks anything but elegant or strong IMO.

On Tue, Apr 7, 2015 at 1:28 PM Chuck S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> The pole on the bow looks like a hinged sprit, stored in the upright
> position, Dutch Botter style?
>   Doesn't look very strong.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 7, 2015 2:55:33 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List C&C in Sail Magazine
>
>
>
> http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/things-work-chain-guide/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=textlink&utm_campaign=enewsletter
>
> Anyone we know?  What is that pole on the port side?
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Headlamps...

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Had all kinds of headlamps for boating, backpacking etc. By far the most
useful for on the boat at night standing watch and in camp at night is the
Petzl Emergency headlamp. Super light, has red mode, long lasting batteries
and NOT blindingly bright at night. I have had mine for going on 10yrs now
and still works like a charm and I use it a ton. In fact, you will see all
of the volvo guys are using them this year for their night watches, so you
know they will hold up in the Southern Ocean, should you ever bring your
C&C there. http://www.rei.com/product/838548/petzl-elite-headlamp

Now for working on the boat in dark corners we use more traditional lamps.
We have two black diamond head lamps and I would not buy another. The
switches on both are about to give out / finicky and the band doesn't stay
tight etc. The best one I've owned before has been the Tikka XP2 from
Petzl. Unfortunately it was lost, but I will be buying another when the
Black Diamond gives out.

As for Home Depot and Harbor Freight cheepos. Well you get what you pay
for. You will likely be replacing it next season when it breaks. (I shop
both HD and HF, but not for head lamps.)

KD

On Fri, Apr 24, 2015 at 2:11 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David — I’ve had really good luck with these:
>
> http://www.rei.com/product/850679/princeton-tec-vizz-headlamp
>
> Good battery life, and they can be very bright when needed.  Also, the
> top-mounted on/off/color/dim switch has a mode where you can lock out
> operation, so you don’t accidentally burn the batteries after stuffing the
> light into a bag (and accidentally hitting the switch).  The red mode works
> great at night on a boat.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 24, 2015, at 3:37 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I need to replace our headlamps (the wearable kind) and there are so many
> choices out there.   Any happy customers who want to share?
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 30 Mkii

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I echo Jim's statement. Aft berth is about a queen wide and plenty long, I
am 6' as well. The inboard vertical clearance is low, but manageable for
us. We are mid 30s and spend equivalent of several weeks aboard every
summer. Vee berth is not as comfortable as aft beth.  Kevin 30-2

On Sun, Apr 26, 2015, 7:50 PM David Castor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Thanks for the info.  I'm 6' as well.  So the aft berth would better
> suited for one person?  How is the leg room in the V-berth?   I don't plan
> to live aboard, but we'd be spending several weeks cruising each summer,
> hopefully.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Castor
>
> On Sun, Apr 26, 2015 at 7:38 PM, Jim Reinardy 
> wrote:
>
>> Dave,
>>
>>
>>
>> I am 6 feet tall and my wife is about 5’ 7” and we use the aft berth and
>> put our 9 year old daughter in the V.  The length is fine for us, the
>> biggest issue is the height on the inboard side where the cockpit floor
>> cuts in.  It makes that side somewhat confined, and difficult to get out
>> of, especially when there are 2 of you.  I would not live aboard, but for a
>> handful of nights each summer, it works fine for us.  Overall, we love our
>> 30-2.  The amenities are wonderful for a 30 foot boat, and the cabin is
>> very pleasant with ample headroom and plenty of light.  The boat sails well
>> too.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim Reinardy
>>
>> C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
>>
>> Milwaukee, WI
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
>> Castor via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Sunday, April 26, 2015 9:29 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Stus-List 30 Mkii
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm back.  Last time I was looking at a couple of 35 Mkiii boats.  I'm
>> still mulling over one of them.  But there is a 1988 C&C 30 Mkii available
>> that is probably a better size for me.   Price is quite high due to a
>> repowering in 2008.
>>
>> In looking at the layout, I'm curious about the aft berth - how usable is
>> this?  Otherwise, the boat seems quite well laid out.
>>
>> Appreciate any feedback on how they sail or things to watch out for.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dave
>>
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Our home insurance agent was happy to provide a rider on our boat. Pretty
cheap too. Then we read the fine print "will not cover flooding." We didn't
think that was ideal for a boat. As they say "Read the fine print."

KD

On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 9:32 AM Kim Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Andrew
> I use TowBoatUS and am on the Caloosahatchee though down river - they are
> fine. Only had to use once in 25 yrs so they are way ahead on $ but the
> peace of mind when there is a problem is worth it to me.  Usually they have
> a boat or two out and about though I am guessing Alva is not in their usual
> pattern- they will come save you but it may take a while. You're small
> enough that a cell phone and a buddy or two with small power boats may
> serve
> you just as well. You are most likely to use in 2 situations- soft
> un-grounding and a tow home due to mechanical failure(dead battery).
>
> Check your homeowners ins - often you can get small boat liability coverage
> there if under 26'. Towing Ins is separate and different than liability.
> BoatUS offers both
>
> Kim Brown
> TrustMe!!! 35-3
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 11:55:59 -0400
> From: Andrew Frame 
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.
> Message-ID: <555a0b8f.6030...@dynamagic.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
>
> Hello folks. New guy here again.
>
> I have discovered that SeaTow is the company to stay away from. But what
> about BoatUS?
>
> My specifics are not extreme: river sailing or always in sight of the
> coast,
> always daytime.
>
> My concern is liability in case of an accident with another vessel, or some
> kind of disability like a dismasting due to a snapped stay.
>
> 24' C&C, no engine. 45-thrust trolling motor for maneuvering, and sail
> under
> way.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts.
>
>
> --
>
>
> Andrew Frame
> C&C 24, Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Tom, replace the Qest fittings with more of the same and go sailing! Save
your money and TIME for a different project IMO.  Your boat is considerably
newer than many on the list and you are bound to have more useful life in
your Qest plumbing system. I just replaced my water heater as well and
ordered new fittings from https://www.plumbingsupply.com/. One thing for
sure I know I'll never see a return on when I sell the boat is replacing a
currently functional plumbing system with similar.

On Thu, May 28, 2015, 5:58 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Watts!
> Like this.
> 
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Stevan Plavsa 
> wrote:
>
>> I just replaced all of mine. If some of it's leaking now it's only a
>> matter of time before it all starts to deteriorate. I used Pex, wasn't a
>> big chore or anything and now I know my pipes are clean. Can you imagine
>> the stuff growing in your plumbing after 20 years? Pex is available at Home
>> Depot and it's not expensive. Lots of different connector options, I spent
>> the money and used the clip type ones .. I think they are called Whale,
>> can't remember for sure. Really easy to use and they haven't leaked.
>>
>> Yeah, here you go:
>> http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137569
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 7:35 AM, John Russo via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are
>>> still manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water
>>> tank connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them
>>> through the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West
>>> Marine) I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic
>>> reducers at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal
>>> the joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant
>>> made especially for plastic. Hope this helps.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> Arpeggio
>>>
>>> C&C 32
>>>
>>> Norwalk, CT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ
>>> & Melody via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Russ & Melody
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Tom,
>>>
>>> I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original
>>> source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless
>>> as a sealing medium
>>>  in compression fitting applications.
>>> In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the
>>> seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force.
>>>
>>> In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape
>>> solution.
>>>
>>> Cheers, Russ
>>> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>>>
>>>
>>> At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote:
>>>
>>> New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
>>> pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
>>> throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three
>>> way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
>>> fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
>>> the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/
>>>
>>> The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But,
>>> they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head
>>> scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.
>>> Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other
>>> junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has
>>> a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was
>>> all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned
>>> that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line
>>> cracks and leaks.  The company is now out of business, of course.
>>>
>>> These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done
>>> originally without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench
>>> on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them
>>> to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop
>>> leaking, they'll break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now
>>> to my actual question...
>>>
>>> What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning
>>> and drying process?
>>>
>>> Has anyone done this successfully?
>>>
>>> If so, what did you use?
>>>
>>> If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I
>>> try?  (My Brother Ton

Re: Stus-List Potable water fittings.

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I have the same Gardenia 4 way manifold with the same labels on my 89 30-2.
Must have come from the factory that way?

On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 7:28 AM Mitchell's via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh, The valve on our 37+ was made by Gardenia and its a 4-1 if that
> helps. (I converted the port side fresh water tank to a holding tank for
> the Great Lakes, we have lots of room with two holding tanks.)
> Tom, it hasn't been said yet, and you probably already know but there is a
> Quest compression fitting end that goes on the plastic pipe with a SS ring
> and you can tighten the nut down pretty tight! The nut squeaks all the way
> tight and will take quite a bit of abuse. The plumbing is not in the
> sunlight and will last decades. If I was going to change it up and had a
> pile of spare cash to burn, I would go Pex too. They can use a two wrench
> snug but not very often. RVs have been using it forever too.
> Len
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
>
>
>
> Sent from my mobile device.___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Airbnb is excellent. We occasionally host and travel using the site. There
are amazing opportunities for unique experiences.
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2079752?s=RhiO

On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 12:51 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> wow!  $70 a night for that boat?  did you read the reviews?  One of them
> is pretty funny!  LOL
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: "Dennis C." 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat
> Date: Thu, 28 May 2015 09:31:15 -0700
>
>  I think I read a news article couple weeks ago about a home that got
> trashed by an airbnb rental.  Airbnb stood by the rentee and fixed their
> property but it was traumatic for the owners.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 9:01 PM, PME via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>>  Heard of AirBnB yet?  Here is a creative way to pay for the slip fees:
>>
>>
>> https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3815654?checkin=06%2F01%2F2015&checkout=06%2F04%2F2015&s=K66J
>>
>>  -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>  ___
>
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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Please tell me that C&C / Rob Ball figured this whole mess out and took a
lesson learned by the time the 30-2 came out. I am pretty sure my mast step
looks nothing like this. I would rather go sailing than deal with this.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2015, 7:09 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> And I see you missed commenting on the ceiling leak that happened at the
> deckhead. The next thing you know people will be talking about their jib
> tracks mounted on the topside or converting the sloop to a cutter.
>
> As they say up north and down south, "Have at 'er mate."
>
> Seriously though Dennis, how could you? Everyone knows that floors run
> athwartship.
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
> At 05:19 PM 02/06/2015, you wrote:
>
> Oh, no.  Are the nomenclature police offended?  Stringer vs floor?
>
> Didn't we have a lengthy thread on these terms a couple of years ago?  I
> recall reading it in the salonuh main cabinuhsaloon.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 5:16 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> There appears to be three or more bundles of fibers (glass?) which follow
> the contour of the hull from side to side - each one of the cross members
> rests on one of these bundles and the keel bolts (as I remember) go through
> the bundles as well. I'll check as soon as it quits raining.
> Â
> Gary
> Wet Maryland
>  - Original Message -
>
> From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 3:29 PM
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
>
> Interesting that C&C put a third cross member in.  My boat is a 1973,
> #166, and it only has the two.
>
> When I repaired the step last year, I put a third member in between the
> other two.
>
> Also, my two original, and the third I put in, all rest on the curved
> shoulder of the bilge.  They don't appear to be structural other than
> dedicated to hold up the mast.
>
> Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, it was not regular, was the
> toughest part.
>
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> STL
>
>
>
> From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Gary Nylander 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
>
> Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are built
> the same. Mine is #593.
>
> Â
>
> There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum box
> is attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached with
> six long screws. The oak comes off easily.
>
> Â
>
> Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or may
> not be weakened. If so, the fixes have ranged from removal and replacement
> to just strengthening. I went the strengthening route and framed each
> stringer with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of holes in each and
> filled with G-Flex up to the level of the oak. No movement in about five
> years.
>
> Â
>
> The problem is that the factory didn't encapsulate the stringers (which
> are made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom, and when the
> bilge is wet, they soak up moisture and get waterlogged. There's glass just
> on the sides.
>
> Â
>
> Some fixers have just put a large horizontal tube for drainage and another
> for access to the forward keel bolt and then filled the whole cavity with
> some sort of filler (microballoons, etc.). You could just fill the lowest
> part so that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to get all the water
> out, the pump has to be in the lowest part of the sump - under the mast.
> Inaccessible.
>
> Â
>
> Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge drain. My boat had that, and
> foolishly I filled up that area. I should have replaced it with one which
> is flush to the outside, then for half of the year, the bilge is totally
> dry.
>
> Â
>
> I don't have pictures, but when you take the screws out of the oak, it
> will be pretty obvious what is there.
>
> Â
>
> Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice.
>
> Â
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List 37 and 34 +/XL/R cabin-side "plates"

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

The most accurate method would be to do a "rubbing" with crayon, i.e. like
an elementary school gravestone rubbing, and scanned at full scale. The
gentleman on the list with CAD/CAM capabilities could trace this in Adobe
Illustrator or CAD and used as a base file for CAM. Just remember to get
the depth of the letters measured and thickness of the plate with calipers.

On Wed, Jun 10, 2015 at 7:32 AM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I can measure / take pictures of mine when I get to the boat next (Should
> be this weekend)
>
> Mine appear to be in pristine condition as they are under the dodger side
> flaps. (Probably have been protected that way since new)
>
>
> Regards,
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Assuming your boat sits on the lines it was designed for, those through
hulls should be just above the waterline and I'd typical for the Rob Ball
designs of late 80s early 90s. It will only be a couple of inches above WL
but they were very smartly designed to remain so (at anchor) and they keep
the transom uncluttered and clean. I consider it a one of the more refined
design moves that separates earlier cncs from the Ball era, my 2 cents.
Sounds like PO could have raised boot and bottom paint, but hard to tell
w/o a picture.

The 34+ seems like a great boat and I hope to have one in the future...

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015, 10:45 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> [Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size
> limits]
>
> Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was
> thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the
> bootstripe and close to the rudder.
>
> You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or
> remove a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers
> and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they
> don't need rapid self bailing like the cockpit does.
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David Pulaski 
> wrote:
>
>> I said "appear" to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the
>> water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen
>> one of these in the water :)  All four thru-hulls are under the transom
>> counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined
>> by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with
>> the boat floating level.  Given their location in the bowels of the stern
>> lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that
>> I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning
>> for a span of days at a time.  On second though, I'd have to leave the two
>> small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them
>> at all.
>>
>> Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust.  2
>> more on the stbd side in the same configuration.
>>
>>
>>
> -Dave
>>  1990 C&C 34+ "Faith Anne"
>>
>> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Jim,  I do have a cover at my emergency tiller stock, but it doesn't keep
the water out. I have not experienced the squeak at the stock so can't
offer advice there. Is it possible to use something a bit heavier than
McLube, but lighter than standard grease. Triflow or similar?

Kevin
30-2 Osprey

On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 3:21 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello All,
>
>
>
> I have a persistent squeak when I turn the wheel on my 30-2.  I have
> traced it to the emergency tiller bracket in the back of the cockpit.I
> can spray McLube in there and it will go away for a short time, but always
> comes back, especially after a rain.   Was there originally a cover on the
> bracket, BTW?
>
>
>
> I don’t see a grease fitting like the lower part of the shaft has, or
> another way to get a better lubricant in there.
>
>
>
> Anyone had this issue before?  I am reluctant to remove the bracket for
> fear of causing larger issues with the steering system, so reassurance
> there would also be helpful.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Jim Reinardy
>
> C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
>
> Milwaukee, WI
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Strengthening Drop Leaf Table Supports

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I have the same issue with my 30-2. In my case the piano hinges just split
at the top. Need to reinforce as well so will be listening for advice.

On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 6:26 AM Don Newman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is it possible that one side released putting all the load on the one that
> failed?
> If so you may want to add barrel locks to prevent someone from
> accidentally knocking one side loose.
>
> Don Newman
> 905 547 1750
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List bolt cutters

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I personally wouldn't want to be looking for pliers hammer etc during a
dismasting and then trying to pull clevis pins in a pitching sea with the
waves punching holes in the side of the boat with the mast. What ever is
easiest and *fastest* is safest in a dismasting event is best IMO.

On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 3:02 PM Chuck S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> You don't don't need bolt cutters.  Just pull the cotter pins on the
> turnbuckle forks, and remove the clevis pins.  Diagonal cutters, Pliers,
> hammer.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Graham Collins via CnC-List" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *"Graham Collins" 
> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 17, 2015 4:46:43 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill
>
> Hey Mike
> So if your mast breaks how do you cut the rigging away?  If you had a bolt
> cutter on board you'd be set for that risk, plus it would make it easier to
> break into my boat to steal my socket set.  Sorry, "borrow"...  :-)
>
> I'm all about having too many tools on board, just not electric ones.  A
> friend insisted we clear out the boat prior to a race, it was an
> illuminating experience.  I managed to talk her out of removing the
> windlass though.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-06-17 10:33 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>
>  When I need sockets I just motor a quarter mile down the NW Arm to where
> I know there is a 260 piece socket set……
>
>
>
> Seriously though.  In 2009 was doing a home project and purchased a Ryobi
> 9v and then found a DeWalt 12v on sale.  Used both drills while installing
> new flooring that had to be screwed every 6 inches (for under tile) and
> would swap one dewalt battery while other charging and then use the ryobi
> while both those charging.  The Ryobi would last only a very short time and
> has long since been scrapped.  The 12v DeWalt has been used for many
> projects and the first battery started not holding much charge last Spring
> while the second is still fine.  The 12v DeWalt has been a great drill for
> me (this past December replaced with 18v DeWalt).  Nothing but good to say
> about it and it was NiCad
>
>
>
> I do not leave a drill on the boat.  I have a smallish toolbox with 6
> screwdrivers (2 phillips, 2 robertson, two slot), one multhead screw
> driver, a couple pair of various pliers, a couple adjustable wrenches,
> allan keys and a pair of vice grips .. as well as pne hammer (don’t know
> why).  Also a smallish socket set.  As I said – if I need more sockets I
> know where Graham is moored
>
>
>
> I do believe you need tools aboard because things break on boats …  and
> also you never know on a boat when the mood will hit you to take on some
> small task which always turns out to be a much bigger job than expected.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Just up the NW Arm from Graham’s boat in Halifax
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Martin DeYoung via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2015 8:51 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Martin DeYoung
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill
>
>
>
> >… What the hell do you need a cordless drill living on your boat for?
>
>
>
> Ever since cordless drill batteries size and performance became reasonably
> useful (mid-80’s?) I carry one on any trip longer than a day sail and
> especially offshore.  Used for repairs, both drilling holes and
> removing/installing fasteners they earn their keep.
>
>
>
> If you purchase L-Ion batteries and travel with your equipment, the US
> airlines are now restricting L-Ion batteries to carry on, not to be in
> checked luggage.  This includes spare cell phone and laptop batteries.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2015 3:58 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Stevan Plavsa
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 12 volt cordless drill
>
>
>
> Speaking for myself I bought the ryobi because I saw the deal and I'm on a
> wet mooring. Rowing my tools out kinda sucks to be honest so I keep a set
> on board. Also, time is money right? Inevitably I forget to bring
> something. If it's all on board I'm good.
>
>
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 5:32 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> OK, I've got to ask.  I love tool as much as the next guy, maybe more (ask
> me how many saws I own).
>
> What the hell do you need a cordless drill living on your boat for?  All
> season?
>
> When I'm working on the boat I will bring whatever drill is appropriate
> (the corded right angle drill is actually a favorite), I will take it home
> when done.  It isn't like I'm off cruising for a we

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in which we
sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew of
anti biotics into these same waters is similarly ignorant IMO. Complain
about the EPA all you like, but someone needs to take on the unenviable
task of protecting the rest of us and our sailing waters from the ill
informed and questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.

Kevin
30-2

On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I totally concur..

You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed.  If
the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from
the factory.

BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly when
we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real long
yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their VC-17
bottom every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to consistently
show-up on the podium despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes
and my old bedsheet sails. :-)

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S 
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
Message-ID:
<
1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I think any drug like " tetracycline" will kill lots of germs and bacteria
but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I
wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion
and slow release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in "Round
Up" and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off
during haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before
painting as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never
read the directions.

I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.

I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years
and got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay
ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a
better paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the
fouling looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur
attached to their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a
soft deck brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt
Water and Fresh Water requires "Micron Extra" I think. Both can be
burnished, but the paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets
smoother as it ablates. They are multi season hard abatives.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

Regards
*François Rivard* 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=8d5d5ecb01&attid=0.0.1&th=14e49f48daac7062&view=fimg&rm=14e49f48daac7062&sz=w1600-h1000&attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeo&disp=emb&zw
">

Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 30327-3015IBM Sales & Distribution, Software
Sales UsaMobile:770-639-0429 e-mail:jfriv...@us.ibm.com

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Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Jacking user fees is one of our US political party's trick so they can say
they don't raise taxes. Look at what Romney did in Massachusetts when he
was there. He raised nearly every fee in the books including gun fees,
which I will admit surprised me! See here
,
and here
.
I wonder which party the decision about USCG documentation funding came
from?

Apologies for the political speak. Back to boats!


On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 8:18 AM jackbrennan via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Florida has a wonderful law that classifies any vessel more than 30 years
> old as an antique vessel. That means the annual registration fee is waived.
> I think it cost me less than $10 to renew.
>
> Jack Brennan
> Former C&C 25
> Shsnachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
> Date:07/10/2015 10:30 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joe Della Barba
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee
>
> I do have to give a shout-out to the nice ladies over that the doc center.
> They straightened out a paperwork mess for me. The state, if anything like
> Maryland, will bend you over, steal your money, not even buy you dinner,
> and then spend it on something else anyway. I would pay $200 for dredging
> if they SWEAR it will be paid directly to the dredging company, but that is
> NOT where it goes L
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> j...@dellabarba.com
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick
> Brass via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 09, 2015 9:56 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Brass
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee
>
>
>
> Fees for initial documentation and for changes also went up at the same
> time that the new renewal fee became effective. IIRC it was part of some
> budget bill that made user fees dependent on the clerical costs involved in
> the process, or some such. There is an explanation on the USCG Vessel
> Documentation website.
>
>
>
> And the USCG has also asked for comments about a proposed rule change to
> allow for multi-year documentation. The comment period may be over, but you
> might still get a chance to endorse the idea, Joe. I know I sent in a
> comment.
>
>
>
> I agree, it’s not the $, it’s the PITA paperwork.
>
>
>
> And as far as dollars go – you could be in North Carolina, where the
> legislature is proposing a “Coastal Boating Fee” for boats over 24 ft. and
> all fishing boats that will be $195 PER YEAR (in addition to the current
> $55 per year registration fee) for my 38. The money is purportedly to be
> used for dredging the inlets and ICW…. But I noticed a $6 million dollar
> earmark for buying right of way for the proposed new bridge over Oregon
> Inlet.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Joe Della Barba via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 09, 2015 4:19 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joe Della Barba
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee
>
>
>
> The $$ do not bother me – the PITA of doing it YEARLY does!
>
> Come on – 5 years or something!
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> j...@dellabarba.com
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Frederick G Street via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 09, 2015 4:02 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation Fee
>
>
>
> Oh, but it’s *NOT* a tax, it’s a user fee…   :^)
>
>
>
> Seems like a lot to charge to administer something that basically takes
> about a minute to file every year.
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
>
> On Jul 9, 2015, at 2:38 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Yep another tax from Uncle Sam...
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Sounded like an A4, no?

On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 3:45 PM S Thomas via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I was wondering if we would hear from you on that one Bill.
> It would be interesting to hear what the owner had to say about what
> happened.
> Precious little in the news reports.
> He couldn't put the fire out, escaped in the Zodiac, and the coast guard
> took him back home. That was about it.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
> To: 
> Cc: "Bill Coleman" 
> Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2015 17:47
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Exploding C&C
>
>
> > And then you have this. Not a C&C, a Nelson Marek I believe -
> >
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.simcoereformer.ca/2015/07/17/sailboat-catches-fire-sinks-on-lake-
> > erie
> >
> >
> >
> > Draw your own conclusions.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Coleman
> >
> > C&C 39  Erie, PA
> >
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim
> > Watts
> > via CnC-List
> > Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 8:29 PM
> > To: 1 CnC List
> > Cc: Jim Watts
> > Subject: Stus-List Exploding C&C
> >
> >
> >
> > It sounds like the injuries weren't too bad, we can hope...ouch. Looks
> > like
> > a 30?
> >
> http://www.ottawasun.com/2015/07/11/man-burned-in-boat-explosion-at-gatineau
> > -marina
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Watts
> > Paradigm Shift
> > C&C 35 Mk III
> > Victoria, BC
> >
> >
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> > bottom of page at:
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> >
> >
>
>
> ___
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>
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Just wondered if it was an A4. No offense intended to A4 owners...

On Wed, Jul 22, 2015 at 3:27 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A boater escaped unharmed after his 50-foot sailboat caught fire on Lake
> Erie on Thursday night.
>
> The sailboat was about 3.5 kilometres away from the Canada/U.S. border
> when the operator detected smoke coming from inside the vessel. He was
> unsuccessful in attempts to extinguish the fire. The man, a 50-year-old
> Erie, Pennsylvania resident, escaped by making his way to a 10-foot Zodiac
> attached to the sailboat.
>
> A passing boater provided assistance to the man.
>
> The Norfolk County OPP Marine Unit was on patrol on Lake Erie when
> officers observed a large plume of smoke east of the Long Point Lighthouse
> at about 7:42 p.m. Officers made their way to the area where they located a
> large boat fire.
>
> The sailboat filled with water and sunk in about 210 feet of water.
>
> The American Coast Guard transported the male back to his residence.
>
> A **50 foot** A4 powered boat would be fairly rare, would it not.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> j...@dellabarba.com
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ
> & Melody via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 22, 2015 1:02 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Russ & Melody
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Exploding C&C
>
> Okay then, we have a boat on the way to a broker and suffers a fire in the
> middle of the lake with a lone wolf aboard. I can believe it's not the
> fault of having an A4 aboard, it could have been a can of dinghy outboard
> fuel below
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 -1
>
> At 07:52 PM 21/07/2015, you wrote:
>
>
> Oh, don't start that again,  Kevin!
>
> I understood he was taking the boat down to Buffalo to a broker. not sure
> how he ended up over the border in the deepest pool  of the lake.
> There was nothing below on that boat but a bucket and a handful of pipe
> berths. on second thought, it might have had a head with an actual door,
> but that's it.
> Don't think it's been sailed in 15 years. seems a shame to pollute the
> lake with yet another wreck. I guess Dave Few can add another boat to his
> map, ghosts shipwrecks of Lake Erie
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39. Erie PA
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
> Date: 07/21/2015 7:13 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Exploding C&C
>
> Sounded like an A4, no?
>
> On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 3:45 PM S Thomas via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I was wondering if we would hear from you on that one Bill.
>
> It would be interesting to hear what the owner had to say about what
>
> happened.
>
> Precious little in the news reports.
>
> He couldn't put the fire out, escaped in the Zodiac, and the coast guard
>
> took him back home. That was about it.
>
> Steve Thomas
>
> C&C27 MKIII
>
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> - Original Message -
>
> From: "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
>
> To: 
>
> Cc: "Bill Coleman" 
>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2015 17:47
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Exploding C&C
>
> > And then you have this. Not a C&C, a Nelson Marek I believe -
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
> http://www.simcoereformer.ca/2015/07/17/sailboat-catches-fire-sinks-on-lake-
>
> > erie
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Draw your own conclusions.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Bill Coleman
>
> >
>
> > C&C 39  Erie, PA
>
> >
>
> > From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Jim
>
> > Watts
>
> > via CnC-List
>
> > Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 8:29 PM
>
> > To: 1 CnC List
>
> > Cc: Jim Watts
>
> > Subject: Stus-List Exploding C&C
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > It sounds like the injuries weren't too bad, we can hope...ouch. Looks
>
> > like
>
> > a 30?
>
> >
> http://www.ottawasun.com/2015/07/11/man-burned-in-boat-explosion-at-gatineau
>
> > -marina
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Jim Watts
>
> > Paradigm Shift
>
> > C&C 35 Mk III
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Looks like a really nice trip. Did you have engine trouble? Wondering why
you were "toe'in wit da dink"

On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 10:07 AM Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> June 5 - 28 2015 in an LF38. Baltimore to Nantucket and back. Log and
> photos at
> Pegathy_NE_Voyage
> 
>
>
> [image: image]
> 
>
>
>
>
>
> Pegathy_NE_Voyage
> 
> 30_Sailin_in_the_downpour_LymetoNew_Haven.jpg 9:50 am
> View on drive.google.com
> 
> Preview by Yahoo
>
> Best viewed on Google Drive. Enjoy. Questions answered on the forum.
>
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy LF38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stus list winches

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

+1 to using a NAIL-SET, -1 to using a PUNCH as was suggested elsewhere.

I used a punch and the drums are abrading my new sheets quite quickly. Not
yet sure how to address this... (they do hold like glue however)

On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 11:25 AM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  On Calypso with her 1970 Barient 36 primaries and the slippery hi-tech
> sheets we need 5 to 6 wraps to reduce slippage.  With older well-worn
> sheets (used for deliveries and cruising) we can get back down to 3 to 4
> wraps.  To avoid unpleasant surprises when tacking with 5 to 6 wraps on the
> winch we practiced the best way to clear the sheet off the winch and insure
> it runs clear.  After each tack we “fake down the line” starting at the
> winch to clear any twists induced by the extra wraps.
>
>
>
> The 1970 Barient’s drums have been worn smooth over the decades of heavy
> use.  They are not self-tailing winches.  I do plan to roughen up the drums
> a bit by dimpling the surface with a nail set and hammer.  This project
> falls well behind the current deck restoration efforts already in progress.
>
>
>
> On Sailing Anarchy either in the Fixit or Cruising forums there is a topic
> thread regarding how to roughen up a winch drum either DIY or using an
> outside service.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Jean-Francois
> J Rivard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, July 27, 2015 7:46 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jean-Francois J Rivard; patrici...@cogeco.ca
> *Subject:* Stus-List Stus list winches
>
>
>
> Hi Herold.
>
> Sounds obvious but I'll say it anyway:  Have you tried 4 wraps?
>
> I read somewhere that the "Correct" number of turns is 4.  On my boat it's
> a necessity, when It's blowing, 3 wraps is a waste of time and effort, they
> all slip.
>
> 4 turns gets it done.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 25, 2015 at 12:41 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
> >   Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my
> > 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are
> > three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a
> > predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a
> > common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a
> > replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are
> > relatively new, and only one winch has this problem.
> > Harold
> > Celtic Spirit
> > Hamilton, ON.
>  ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff (Now stuff)

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

While the other C&C 30mkII listers are tuned in, I am looking to replace my
main soon and looking for a decent used one. If you have a back up that's
not all blown out or you are thinking about replacing your current one
soon, let me know...I am in the market.

Thanks!
Kevin

On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:12 AM RPH via CnC-List 
wrote:

> On a serious note, please disconnect shore power before sending the monkey
> down below. The 110 volt wires run right into the area where he'll be
> working.
>
> Robert H.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Blair via CnC-List 
> Date: 08-03-2015 10:54 AM (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Blair 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff
>
> I have a 13year old boy who is about to put your and Rob's theory to the
> test [image: 😊]
>
>
> Blair Clark 902-423-4651
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of RPH via
> CnC-List 
> *Sent:* August 3, 2015 2:35 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* RPH
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff
>
> Blair,
>
> Rob (below) described the correct way to tackle the problem. I was going
> to use my 11 year old daughter as my spider monkey, but I tried lubricating
> without disassembly and it worked (at least for me). The "cover" that I
> referred to is simply the white plastic  (nylon?) cap that covers access to
> the tiller fitting. Perhaps your cap is missing or stowed?
>
> As I said, Rob describes how to do the job properly, but I managed to fix
> my problem without disassembly and my daughter still speaks to me.
>
> Robert H.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Blair via CnC-List 
> Date: 08-03-2015 10:13 AM (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Blair 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff
>
> That is useful and funnythank you
>
>
> Blair Clark 902-423-4651
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Robert
> Gallagher via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* August 3, 2015 2:03 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Robert Gallagher
> *Subject:* Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff
>
> remove the through  bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder
> post/emergency tiller point.
>
> Remove the "plastic" bearing and lubricate.
>
> Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still
> stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and
> retest until you are happy with the results.
>
> It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and
> through bolts.
>
> But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to
> hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is
> small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend.
> Maybe I'd still have the monkey?
>
> Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions.
> trys...@gmail.com
>
> Rob
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade now Luddite Alert!

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Pass through many bridges but the only thing that causes my autopilot to
get crazy is when my cell phone is next to it. Curious about a handheld.
Will try that.

On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 9:10 AM D Harben via CnC-List 
wrote:

> ... Argh yes! I carry a VHF/DSC/GPS and knife on me as I single hand...
> however ... Getting close to the Raymarine 2000+ causes it to lust after
> them ...
>
> Don
> V34
> NCYC
>
> > On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > magnetic interference probably caused by cables crossing the channel
> caused my wheel pilot to turn sharply to port
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I too would like to do something with my 30-2 baby stay. I actually saw a
30-1 near by with a 3 or 4 to 1 purchase with a cam cleat (like a
traditional boom vang) for his baby stay. I very much like this idea in
that it is a) removable and b) could be tension-ed for mid section mast
bend in blowy conditions. I hope to do away with the cable and replace with
Dyneema or eq, and then connect the purchase to the bottom of that.

It's not high on my project list right now however.

Kevin
Portland
30-2

On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 2:49 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yep, pelican hook, same here.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Aug 18, 2015 5:36 PM, "Bill Bina via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I terminated mine with a pelican hook. Works great.
>>
>> Bill Bina
>>
>> On 8/18/2015 5:29 PM, allen via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>> Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, I
>>> would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so I
>>> can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the
>>> foredeck.
>>> What hardware is best in this application?
>>> Allen Miles
>>> s/v Septima
>>> Hampton, VA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Nor does mine otherwise I wouldn't be looking at the vang tension solution.

On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at 5:09 AM allen via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Not my model.  The 30XL and 30R models did.
>
> Allen Miles
> s/v Septima
> Hampton, VA
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 18, 2015 11:51 PM
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2
>
> Does the C&C 30 have a deck track which provides more or less tension on
> the baby stay?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Aug 18, 2015 7:16 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Snap shackle on mine
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 18, 2015, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I too would like to do something with my 30-2 baby stay. I actually saw
>>> a 30-1 near by with a 3 or 4 to 1 purchase with a cam cleat (like a
>>> traditional boom vang) for his baby stay. I very much like this idea in
>>> that it is a) removable and b) could be tension-ed for mid section mast
>>> bend in blowy conditions. I hope to do away with the cable and replace with
>>> Dyneema or eq, and then connect the purchase to the bottom of that.
>>>
>>> It's not high on my project list right now however.
>>>
>>> Kevin
>>> Portland
>>> 30-2
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 2:49 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yep, pelican hook, same here.
>>>>
>>>> Josh Muckley
>>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>>> Solomons, MD
>>>> On Aug 18, 2015 5:36 PM, "Bill Bina via CnC-List" <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I terminated mine with a pelican hook. Works great.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill Bina
>>>>>
>>>>> On 8/18/2015 5:29 PM, allen via CnC-List wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here,
>>>>>> I
>>>>>> would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so
>>>>>> I
>>>>>> can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the
>>>>>> foredeck.
>>>>>> What hardware is best in this application?
>>>>>> Allen Miles
>>>>>> s/v Septima
>>>>>> Hampton, VA
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Email address:
>>>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ___
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Email address:
>>>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> ___
>>>>>
>>>>> Email address:
>>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>>>
>>>>> ___
>>>>
>>>> Email address:
>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551 <301%20541%208551>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> --
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List LED's for TRILIGHT?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I do not have a marine beam tricolor, but have ~5 or 6 other lights from
them. They are not the cheapest, but I have been very happy with them,
especially this one which we have throughout the cabin in our plastic
reading lamps on our 89 30-2:
http://store.marinebeam.com/red-white-switchable-led-for-dome-lights/

Remember when replacing bulbs with LEDs for nav lights, i understand that
they no longer meet colregs unless the fixture is approved for led
replacement of incandescent bulbs (which I've not seen anywhere... Cause I
looked into doing so) Therefore, if you were in a mishap at night you could
be deemed to be at fault even if you weren't. Of course the Coast Guard may
have a reason to board as well. Either scenario is admittedly unlikely, but
possible.

The new Marine Beam tricolor seems like a very good value on my opinion.

On Thu, Aug 20, 2015, 12:29 PM svpegasu...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I thought I had gotten a tri colar. But I just don't remember. The colors
> are bright when turned on. I wish I could remember what I had.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> -- Original message--
>
> *From: *Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
>
> *Date: *Thu, Aug 20, 2015 11:40
>
> *To: *jonbooc...@gmail.com;
>
> *Cc: *Alex Giannelia;cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>
> *Subject:*Stus-List LED's for TRILIGHT?
>
>
> So, if I understood correctly,
>
>
>
> You actually found a tri-light LED bulb somewhere but it was too noisy for
> your VHF radio, correct?
>
>
>
> I searched one LED supplier on line and he says he has no tri-colour bulb
> and that his white bulb won’t transmit through the green lens properly
>
>
>
> The search continues.
>
>
>
> *Alexander M. Giannelia*
>
> President
>
>
>
> the* airborne sensing *corporation
>
> 555 Richmond Street West, Suite 912, PO Box 1008, Toronto, Ontario M5V
> 3B1, Canada
>
>
>
> Phone(416) 203-9858
>
> Mobile(416) 529-0070
>
> Fax  (416) 203-9843
>
>
>
> **Notre site web est aussi disponible en français!* *www.airsensing.com
>  *
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

But has a number of qualifiers, and does not show (or mention of course)
the pulverized hull to deck joint and toe rail on the starboard side, nor
the pulpit, etc. His terms would make it very difficult, if not impossible
to arrange for a haul/inspection if you were the winning bidder. Even if he
got the boat for free it would take probably 10k to responsibly fix the
damage. Rudder post anyone? Three photos, really? The whole bit about
leaving town for Colorado for his kids school etc is his problem (if true),
not the bidders. Is it not a salvage title? He lists as "clean title".
Guess that means something different to someone on ebay than honest buyers.

 I would report the sale as a scam if I could. This guy is a scum bag.

On Thu, Aug 20, 2015 at 5:12 PM Steve Sharkey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> He does provide his phone number and urges people to come inspect the boat.
>
> Steve Sharkey
> 1983 C&C 37
> Impromptu
>
> *From:* S Thomas via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 20, 2015 6:32 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* S Thomas 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay
> The seller is clearly being dishonest.
> Depending on the quality of the work done, it might be a good deal, but
> saying that it only has "SOME LIGHT WEAR FROM REGULAR SAILING" is
> deliberately misleading.
> Ebay was much better and safer for purchasers, when bidders were allowed
> to communicate with each other.
> The way they run it now facilitates crooks.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Harry Hallgring via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Harry Hallgring 
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 20, 2015 15:50
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay
>
> Seems cheap?
>
> Harry
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 20, 2015, at 15:20, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I just saw this.  the price is rediculous.
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXCELLENT-C-C-WORLD-CRUISER-Ready-To-Sail-NO-RESERV-Offshore-Electronics-Package-/201411407045?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ee50e2cc5&item=201411407045
>
> but as I was researching the boat i found this.
>
> http://www.yachtsalvage.com/Listings/YS140250.htm#photos
> it has to be the same boat.  I think someone bought the salvaged boat,
> fixed it up and is flipping it.
>
> not that that is necessarily a bad thing...  it just needs a really good
> survey...
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
> --
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>
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Gone. Tried a number of different ways. Hopefully some romantic sailor out
there doesn't get snookered.

On Fri, Aug 21, 2015 at 10:58 AM Steve Sharkey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It doesn’t come up for me either.  Seems to be gone.
>
> *From:* S Thomas via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, August 21, 2015 1:55 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* S Thomas 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay
>
> I wrote him yesterday, and later complained to Ebay about the ad when I
> received no response.
> I can no longer see the listing, but it sounds like you guys can.
> All I get are a list of items similar to
> but the link still shows up in my list of recently viewed items.
>
> WTF?
>
> Is the listing gone, or has my access been removed and other people can
> still see it?
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>
> - Original Message -
>
> *From:* Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Danny Haughey 
> *Sent:* Friday, August 21, 2015 13:23
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay
>
> I've written him on ebay and asked about the salvaged title, and whether
> or not he had receipts or photo documentation of the repairs.  No reply
> yet...
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay
> Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2015 13:40:09 -0300
>
>
> I agree - if you zoom in on the photo the starboard stanchions are not
> there.� I'd bet he just patched the holes and is hoping nobody notices the
> missing stanchions.
> Not exactly a worldwide cruiser in that condition
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 2015-08-21 9:19 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I don�t see any stbd lifeline or stanchions in the ebay photos.� Wonder
> how much was fixed?
>
> �
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Harry Hallgring via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 20, 2015 4:51 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Harry Hallgring
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stus List - 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay
>
> �
>
> Seems cheap?
>
> Harry
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Aug 20, 2015, at 15:20, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I just saw this. �the price is rediculous.
>
> �
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXCELLENT-C-C-WORLD-CRUISER-Ready-To-Sail-NO-RESERV-Offshore-Electronics-Package-/201411407045?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ee50e2cc5&item=201411407045
>
> �
>
> but as I was researching the boat i found this.
>
> �
>
> http://www.yachtsalvage.com/Listings/YS140250.htm#photos
>
> it has to be the same boat. �I think someone bought the salvaged boat,
> fixed it up and is flipping it.
>
> �
>
> not that that is necessarily a bad thing... �it just needs a really good
> survey...
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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>
> --
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>
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Re: Stus-List Lighting - interior

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

How would they be in the cockpit locker? It says they won't light up in the
day time. Are the recesses of my cockpit locker considered "daytime" at
noon do you think?

On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 8:13 AM svpegasu...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I like the size of those. I have been looking for battery powered motion
> sensor lights for in my fridge, and now that I think about it I could use
> them all over.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> -- Original message--
>
> *From: *Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>
> *Date: *Fri, Aug 28, 2015 08:05
>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>
> *Cc: *Joel Aronson;
>
> *Subject:*Stus-List Lighting - interior
>
>
> I just got these motion detector lights:
>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4EQVPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
>
> I put one under the vee berth so I can see what I am doing when I pull the
> transducer, and another in the head so I don't need to fumble for the light
> switch.​  I just hope the double sided tape holds up.
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Salvage or great price?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Remember, it's nearly impossible to finance (in a conventional way) a boat
that old. I imagine that is one of the biggest hurdles to selling a boat
20+ years old.

On Mon, Aug 31, 2015 at 10:13 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Its hard to believe he can't sell it at that price!  Main and jib 10k.
> New chart plotter 2k.  Not unusual for a boat that is 26 years old!
>
> The draft is a big issue for the Chesapeake.  I also makes me wonder if I
> would have to give away my 35/3!​  If he would only take mine in trade...!
>
> Joel
>
> On Mon, Aug 31, 2015 at 10:55 AM, David via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I know the owner and live in a neighboring town if anyone has questions.
>>
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981 40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>
>>
>> --
>> Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2015 09:08:40 -0400
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Salvage or great price?
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> CC: djhaug...@juno.com
>>
>>
>> great price!  all day long!  thus blast has been for sale over a year.
>> she is in very good shape, seller bought a swan to cruise south in winter.
>> the deep draft can be a tough sell in those waters.  need sails,
>> electronics, and no cockpit canvas.  but a really nice boat.  almost no
>> crazing and clean.
>>
>> Danny
>> survey and negotiation going on now.
>>
>>
>> DJH
>> On Joel Aronson via CnC-List , Aug 30, 2015 8:56
>> AM wrote:
>>
>>
>> Danny looked at her a while ago, but the Admiral didn't like the
>> layout.good thing it isn't closer to me!  I'm tempted.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Saturday, August 29, 2015, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> If you want a better look at her she's been on Yachtworld for a while.
>> More photos and info here:
>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/C-%26-C-37-40-Plus-2732142/Mattapoisett/MA/United-States#.VeJpcflVhBc
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>> On 29 August 2015 at 22:26, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/boa/5195322823.html
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>>
>> ___ Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
>> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
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>>
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>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I am still looking for a Barient 18 self tailer or similar, if anyone knows
of one.

Kevin

On Tue, Sep 8, 2015, 6:02 PM Paul Baker via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I fitted them to my 24 and they worked fine, were a struggle to get on but
> that meant they never slipped.
> Cheers
> Paul
>
> --
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 17:08:15 -0300
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: rtaill...@eastlink.ca
>
>
> I have them on my 25 and they work great.  They came on a pair of Barient
> 18s that I traded for another pair of winches I had  and some splicing jobs.
>
> I don’t know what size they are but they almost look a size too small for
> the winches, maybe that’s why I haven’t had the slippage problems that some
> people have had.  There is no way I could get my normal sheets in the outer
> groove but my light air ones do fit.  I use 5/16” sheets and the key is to
> get three full wraps on the winch then grind it in to jam the top wrap
> against the bottom of the Wincher, if I don’t do that the sheet will back
> off.  I like them because you can take in the majority of the sheet before
> the load comes on then put on the third wrap and finish trimming in the
> sail with one hand, great for single handed sailing.  I still have to deal
> with the sheet as it comes off the winch but I can crank it in a couple
> turns before it gets around to the front of the winch, if you have someone
> to tail this is a non-issue.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Nemesis
>
> '75 C&C 25  #371
>
> Shearwater Yacht Club
>
> Halifax, NS.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Marek
> Dziedzic via CnC-List
> *Sent:* September-07-15 19:16
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
>
>
>
> I had them on my C&C 24 and I could not make them to work. I removed them.
>
>
>
> But ymmv.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
> Date: 2015-09-07 18:07 (GMT-05:00)
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc: David Knecht 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
>
> What about $50 for Winchers (
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C2358547%7C2358555&id=899493
> )?
> I am considering trying one for one of my cabin top small secondaries.  I
> have read that they work.  Dave
>
>
>
> Aries
>
> 1990 C&C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 7, 2015, at 5:05 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> Pairs of used self tailers on eBay go for $1000-1800 depending on size.
> (There's a pair of 60 ST's out there now for $1700.)
>
> Winchmates are ~$550 each.  That's $1100 a pair.
>
> Good used non-self tailers sell for $300-800 on eBay depending on size and
> condition.
>
> I upgraded Touche's primary, secondary and cabin top winches from alloy to
> chrome bronze.  Net cost for 2 Barlow 28's, 2 Barlow 26's and 2 stainless
> Barient 22's (all used non ST's) was around $600.  Paid $1100 for the "new"
> ones and sold two pairs of the old ones on eBay for $500 and tossed a pair
> of 28's in the dumpster.
>
>
>
> Just saying
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 3:13 PM, Harry Hallgring via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Yes, that is probably what I will do for my primaries.
>
> Harry
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On Sep 7, 2015, at 11:07 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> These?
>
>
>
> http://www.winchmate.com/store.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
> ___
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
> --
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2015.0.6125 / Virus Database: 4419/10600 - Release Date: 09/08/15
>
> ___ Email address:
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To ch

Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

+ 1 for MX Mariner. I have been using it on my 7" android tablet and
Android Phone for 3 years in tights spots and up and down the Oregon + Wa
Coasts and in the San Juans. I also have Navionics on both devices for
redundancy and with have charts downloaded on both. These apps send me
notification and/or automatically update charts whenever new NOAA
information is available (a huge plus for safety imo.) Active Captain is
also integral with both apps. MX Mariner is free, I believe Navionics was
$20 for charts of all of Northern CA, Oregon, Washington and San Juans. HD
Navionics was $50-60 as mentioned, but normal fidelity was fine on my 7"
Tablet.

Additionally I have an app called Boat Beacon which sends(with your MMSI #)
and receives AIS info. It does this only when connected to cell service
(when I need real AIS, I'll buy it.) I do also have an old handheld GPS
(with outdated charts... like nearly all non wifi enabled
GPS/Chartplotters)

If I were you Danny, I would load up your android tablet, and one or two
phones with apps/charts as a back up for the delivery. IMO the dongles,
bluetooth adapters etc, add complexity and expense and seem like an obvious
weak link in the system to me, as well as the battery drain, and not having
the plotter/laptop in the cockpit. The apps will always be cheaper than
additional hardware. But you can worry about that or not, when you get your
boat home! BTW, you'll find that most delivery skippers only use a Tablet
with Navionics because they can't trust the systems on the boats they are
delivering. And a plug for one of the only boats/blogs that are really out
there doing real sailing and not island hopping: s/v Sila
, who has been using iPad
Tablets successfully for years now, including around Cape Horn and a number
of oceanic crossings. My 2 cents.

Congratulations on your (almost) new boat Danny!



On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 8:16 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have been using an old IBM Thinkpad and OpenCPN for years and it all
> works great. You get spoiled and “real” marine chartplotters seem quite
> lacking. OpenCPN is free and all the charts are free too.
>
> The only drawbacks are that a laptop is NOT anywhere close to waterproof,
> it isn’t in the cockpit, and they draw more power than a plotter. My old
> beast draws around 4-5 amps.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 08, 2015 6:00 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?
>
>
>
> Download  OpenCPn, the currents plug in and the charts, add the GPS dongle
> and buy a 12v power supply on Amazon.  $50 should cover the dongle and
> power supply - assuming you have a cigaretee lighter/12v power outlet.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
> On Tuesday, September 8, 2015, jtsails via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Danny,
>
> the only GPS I carry on my boat is a small handheld garmin, I just don’t
> see the need for a big chartplotter. I’ve chartered boats that had them
> several times, but even then I found that I only used my handheld to
> navigate with since I am familiar and comfortable with it. Most of the
> time, in my home waters I don’t even use the handheld but I’ve sailed this
> area for 40+ years and probably know the waters more accurately than the
> chart plotter anyway. I can’t count the number of times I see people stuck
> on sandbars because they followed the GPS instead of the marks!
>
>
>
> James
>
> Delaney
>
> 1976 C&C 38
>
> Oriental, NC
>
>
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 08, 2015 5:19 PM
>
> *To:* C&C List
>
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?
>
>
>
> Yes, it is a great option for the cost conscious.  The NOAA website has
> all of their charts available in vector and raster formats.  They also have
> links to free and paid software for viewing the charts.  You'll need to
> provide a GPS input.  There are lots of options (long term and short) but
> the quickest and easiest is to buy a usb gps dongle.
>
> A laptop is very power hungry.  The chargers usually draw 90w or ~7.5
> amps.  It's worse if you have to use an inverter.  12v chargers can often
> be found on amazon or ebay for pretty cheap, $10.
>
> Most laptops are also not in any way waterproof.
>
> PM me if you need more info.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sep 8, 2015 5:05 PM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
>
>
> The boat I'm in the process of buying does not currently have
> chartplotter.  Instead of rushing into the purchase of a new one for the
> delivery home I was thinking to use a windows tablet with an external GPS
> antennae/dongle and charts loaded from someplace to be determined.  I think
> I'd get a cheap handheld garmin as well.  GPS stor

Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Which brings up another topic...anchor alarm apps for phone or tablet!
There are many available and they do not use any power and do not need to
be connected to cell service! (Though your plotter is probably fairly
efficient Andrew)

On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 10:01 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A little bit of thread drift; I just installed a Raymarine e7D
> plotter/radar on Peregrine. I got it on sale at Defender for way less than
> $2K, including the radar antenna and wires. Just did a very foggy cruise to
> Grand Manan Island in New Brunswick and the whole unit worked a treat. One
> of the best features is that it transmits a wifi signal that I can get on
> my iPad so I can check my position from my bunk; this is really handy when
> I'm anchored and worried about dragging in the middle of the night.
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 11:09 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have been using an old IBM Thinkpad and OpenCPN for years and it all
>> works great. You get spoiled and “real” marine chartplotters seem quite
>> lacking. OpenCPN is free and all the charts are free too.
>>
>> The only drawbacks are that a laptop is NOT anywhere close to waterproof,
>> it isn’t in the cockpit, and they draw more power than a plotter. My old
>> beast draws around 4-5 amps.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 08, 2015 6:00 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?
>>
>>
>>
>> Download  OpenCPn, the currents plug in and the charts, add the GPS
>> dongle and buy a 12v power supply on Amazon.  $50 should cover the dongle
>> and power supply - assuming you have a cigaretee lighter/12v power outlet.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 8, 2015, jtsails via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Danny,
>>
>> the only GPS I carry on my boat is a small handheld garmin, I just don’t
>> see the need for a big chartplotter. I’ve chartered boats that had them
>> several times, but even then I found that I only used my handheld to
>> navigate with since I am familiar and comfortable with it. Most of the
>> time, in my home waters I don’t even use the handheld but I’ve sailed this
>> area for 40+ years and probably know the waters more accurately than the
>> chart plotter anyway. I can’t count the number of times I see people stuck
>> on sandbars because they followed the GPS instead of the marks!
>>
>>
>>
>> James
>>
>> Delaney
>>
>> 1976 C&C 38
>>
>> Oriental, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List
>>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 08, 2015 5:19 PM
>>
>> *To:* C&C List
>>
>> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Windows laptop for chartplotter?
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, it is a great option for the cost conscious.  The NOAA website has
>> all of their charts available in vector and raster formats.  They also have
>> links to free and paid software for viewing the charts.  You'll need to
>> provide a GPS input.  There are lots of options (long term and short) but
>> the quickest and easiest is to buy a usb gps dongle.
>>
>> A laptop is very power hungry.  The chargers usually draw 90w or ~7.5
>> amps.  It's worse if you have to use an inverter.  12v chargers can often
>> be found on amazon or ebay for pretty cheap, $10.
>>
>> Most laptops are also not in any way waterproof.
>>
>> PM me if you need more info.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Sep 8, 2015 5:05 PM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Guys,
>>
>>
>>
>> The boat I'm in the process of buying does not currently have
>> chartplotter.  Instead of rushing into the purchase of a new one for the
>> delivery home I was thinking to use a windows tablet with an external GPS
>> antennae/dongle and charts loaded from someplace to be determined.  I think
>> I'd get a cheap handheld garmin as well.  GPS store has one for $169.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have windows tablet with the specs of a laptop.  i5 processor and 4gb
>> ram and I have an older android tablet with decent specs for it age.
>>
>>
>>
>> Is this a viable option to at least get the boat home and try and find a
>> good deal on a plotter over the off season?
>>
>>
>>
>> It would also be a carry on and use and alleviate the need to install
>> anything before the trip.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any and all advice is always appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> Danny
>>
>> Still headed toward a closing
>>
>> Massachusetts
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>> --
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email ad

Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Oops, Intended for Frank, not spam for everyone else...

On Thu, Sep 10, 2015 at 2:56 PM Kevin Driscoll 
wrote:

> Frank,
>
> If Mark doesn't go for that MK I swivel, I would love to have it. I am in
> Portland. We haven't met, but I race regularly on the J42 Velocity and
> occasionally on other boats. My wife and I also have a 30-2 "Osprey" at
> PYC.
>
> Thanks!
> Kevin
>
> On Thu, Sep 10, 2015 at 2:54 PM N7FN--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hold on Mark,
>>
>> I have an old Mk I swivel that you can have for the postage, shipping and
>> handling.
>> A lot less than $175 but I am on the West Coast.
>>
>> Interested?
>>
>> Frank
>> S/V Cool Change
>> C&C LF 38, S/N: 001
>> Rose City Yacht Club
>> Portland, Oregon
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Frank,

If Mark doesn't go for that MK I swivel, I would love to have it. I am in
Portland. We haven't met, but I race regularly on the J42 Velocity and
occasionally on other boats. My wife and I also have a 30-2 "Osprey" at
PYC.

Thanks!
Kevin

On Thu, Sep 10, 2015 at 2:54 PM N7FN--- via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hold on Mark,
>
> I have an old Mk I swivel that you can have for the postage, shipping and
> handling.
> A lot less than $175 but I am on the West Coast.
>
> Interested?
>
> Frank
> S/V Cool Change
> C&C LF 38, S/N: 001
> Rose City Yacht Club
> Portland, Oregon
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I have the Kong double tether and highty recommend. You won't find a
cheaper/high quality 2x tether. (required for offshore racing). At a Safety
at Sea Seminar I witnessed the Spinlock Deckvest Pro inflate with the
antenna strobe and spray hood., I can tell you that this appears to be the
gold standard of all that inflated, including my own lifejacket. This is
what I am buying before my race to Hawaii in 2016.

DO NOT buy this one:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--offshore-sail-automatic-inflatable-life-jacket--14897433.
The straps are a poor design and loosen every 10 minutes when wearing it. I
used it for 6 mos and returned this weekend. What good is life jacket if
you cant keep it snug?

On Tue, Sep 15, 2015 at 2:55 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My wife and I've both had the Mustang HIT Inflatable Life Jacket / PFD
> with Harness for about 5 years now.  Very comfortable.  The Neoprene
> Comfort Collar is an improvement over the older models.
>
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|135|2290066|2290067&id=2686758
>
> I added the leg straps (lousy photo and little info unfortunately):
> http://www.mustangsurvival.com/recreational/ma3032?country=23
>
> The binnacle sells them:
> http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=10246
>
> Better photo here: http://www.ahoycaptain.com/mustang_27380.html
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 15 September 2015 at 17:46, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi guys,
>>
>> I'm to buy an inflatable life jacket with a harness and tether and I'm
>> looking for recommendations.
>>
>> I'm told I should get hydrostatic.  These things run up to $400.
>>
>> Then there is a mustang version on sale at defender for $259.
>>
>> I'm interested in what you guys use or recommend.
>>
>> We don't go offshore much but, intend to further our cruising ground.
>>
>> Danny
>> Still moving toward a closing!
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

My Kong tether has snap shackle for self eject.

On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 11:53 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> don't forget to sign up for the PYacht email list before you place your
> order and they'll give a 5% off code on a purchase over $100
>
> five bucks is five bucks!
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Indigo via CnC-List 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: Indigo 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 08:28:37 -0400
>
> I don't recall - one of the early posts on the subject. At the price of
> these at pyacht I might be tempted to replace my "spare" old style tethers.
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Sep 16, 2015, at 08:03, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mine does.  Which one are you looking at?  I’ve got the “Y” tether with
> one six-foot leg and one three-foot leg; both of those have the
> positive-action carabiners.  The harness end has a snap shackle with a
> pull-lanyard.  Like this:
> http://www.pyacht.com/cgi-bin/pagegen.pl?pr+kng283sete.htm
>
> — Fred
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Sep 15, 2015, at 10:29 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> I am surprised to see that the Kong tether as illustrated does not have a
> snap-shackle for use at the harness end to enable quick disconnect if
> needed.  With any tension, you'd need to cut the tether in order to get
> free if you were, say, trapped under water.
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Interior Cushions

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Definitely invest 6k into cushions for your 81 34' and be done with it;)

On Wed, Sep 16, 2015, 5:26 PM svpegasu...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I did my cushions on an old boat myself. Had foam cut by the foam shop,
> bought fabric from furniture repair shop. Layed everything out in family
> room. Sewed it all on an old Singer machine. My teenage daughter went to
> school bragging that I had a sewing room in the house.
>
> Bought a Sailrite sail cover kit and sewed it aboard Pegasus last winter.
> Had my cat Dinghy supervising.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> -- Original message--
>
> *From: *Al Serrato via CnC-List
>
> *Date: *Wed, Sep 16, 2015 15:17
>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>
> *Cc: *Al Serrato;
>
> *Subject:*Stus-List Interior Cushions
>
>
> I have a 1981 C & C '34 with original cushions. I recently got an estimate 
> from a local marine canvas shop for replacement of all the fabric (retaining 
> the original foam) using the lowest cost sunbrella material. I was surprised 
> to see it was over $4000 for the job, and over $6000 to replace the foam as 
> well.I would appreciate any suggestions for alternative ways to go on 
> upgrading the interior upholstery.Thanks in advance.Al SerratoFidelity San 
> Francisco BaySent from my 
> iPad___Email 
> address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including 
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page 
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>
>
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Stus-List Sailing Totem - "(C&C's) Keels Falling Off!"

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Does anyone know if there is any base to the assertion the Ms. Gifford
makes in her Sailing Totem  blog that “(C&C’s) keels are falling off!”

http://www.sailfeed.com/2014/08/theres-this-boat-mary-powell/

Assuming not, could someone remind her that baseless assertions,
distributed by her through various channels (Sailfeed, email, f*book, etc.)
is irresponsible and is the malady that leads to the unfortunate
afflictions behind Rebel Heart slander and other unfortunate rumoring.

I would email, but I need to get back to work.

Kevin

Portland
30-2


Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493
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Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Fwiw I've tried sticking led puck lights in my lazarette on our 30-2 and
couldn't get anything to stick there either. I just finally gave up and
stuck the adhesive with super glue from our med kit.

I also stuck one on the underside of our helm seat so that we can more
easily connect our shore power when we come in after dark Which we do
quite often, especially after dark in winter.

I am curious, did you connect the led s in lieu of the florescent fixtures
located there or adjacent to them? I would be curious to hear what you've
done for switching if it was the latter.

It's your 30-2 in the great lakes?

Best,
Kevin

Sent from my Tablet
On Sep 1, 2014 12:22 PM, "RPH via CnC-List"  wrote:

> I already know that this is a stupid question and that I will be shamed by
> the (obvious) answer.
>
> Anyway, I attempted to install a couple of flexible led light strips in
> the overhead light recesses in the cabin of my 30-2. The lights are like
> these:
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/optx-marine--flexible-heavy-duty-led-strip-lights-12--P012712865
>
> Each overhead light recess has a translucent cover panel. Underneath the
> cover panel is the raw fibreglass side if the deck structure.
>
> The lights are supposed to be affixed using an adhesive backed tape. I
> tried the tape. I tried "industrial" Velcro. I tried "No More Nails" tape.
> Nothing will stick. By the next day, the light strips have detached.
>
> I did clean the raw fibreglass with Simple Green,  but I am now wondering
> whether there is something in the resin that is making this a hopeless
> exercise.
>
> Any tips or suggestions?
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Companionway hood

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I ordered this stuff recently from Amazon. It's white so blends nIce with gel 
coat.  I don't have link just this moment but yOu should find it easy enough.

Incom RE20759 .75-Inch by 20-Foot Butyl Caulking Tape, White

On September 10, 2014, at 1:20PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:

Unless your hood is different than mine, all it does is keep rain and waves
from getting in between the slider and forward part of the companionway, and
protect and hide the tracks and slider. I think you want it open all along
the bottom, or the water won't be able to drain properly.
I think what you are asking is simply how to tighten up the screw holes?
If so, what I did on mine was to ream out the holes a little with my handy
Dremel tool and an eighth inch rasp.
Then I inserted some SS helicoils, I think #10 NC, put a little vaseline on
the screws, screwed them in the helicoils so I could remove them, and bedded
them in the holes with thickened West System epoxy. Worked like a charm.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2014 10:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Companionway hood


A couple of the screws are loose on my companionway hood, so I am planning
on removing it and giving it a good cleaning (and cleaning the gunk
underneath it).

What type of sealant should i put into the screwholes when I put it back on?
4200? Silicon?  Any advice would be appreciated.

There seemed to be quite the debate a few years ago about whether to seal
the entire underside or not.  Mine only appears to have sealant around the
screws and i don't have any leaks (at least not around the companionway!) ,
so I'll probably stick with that method.

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama C&C 33 Mk II 
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Stus-List San Francisco sailing opportunities this weekend

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

My wife and I are in San Francisco for the weekend and wondered if anyone would 
be out on the water today Saturday or tomorrow Sunday. If you have room on deck 
our need a grinder we would be happy to get out on the water. 

Off course if you are traveling through Portland we would be happy to get 
another listener out.

Best
KeVin
5038753493
C&C 30 mkII
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Backstay aduster

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I second the split back with tackle/cam cleat apparatus suggestion. I race a 
bit with it and Find it straight forward and quick adjusting. Pretty direct 
feedback on rig tension.

KD

On October 8, 2014, at 1:13PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote:

For a 33 you may want to consider one of the fittings that ride on a split 
backstay from Johnson.  Not nearly as eloquent but effective and probably the 
best value.


John


On Oct 8, 2014, at 4:06 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
 wrote:


If you race your boat you will find the mechanical back stay adjuster to be a 
complete PITA.


I have a stainless steel Barient back stay adjuster (5/8" pins and uses a winch 
handle to adjust) that came with my boat back in 1975 to be used in case the 
original Meriman hydraulic adjusters failed. It did indeed fail and we rigged 
the Barient and it took all that one could do to crank in enough tension just 
to straighten the mast 


Jack Fitzgerald

HONEY
C&C 39 TM





On Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 3:12 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi all,
 
I sent my navtec backstay for a rebuild at Southshore and it seems the over 25 
years thing is dammaged (scratch on pump cylinder, not fixable, it still 
leaks). I'm looking at options and the two on the list are: replace it by the 
exact same thing (Navtec) or screw hydrolic and go with the mechanical option. 
Would be a Wichard product, the one with a ratchet or handle with no ratchet, 
not the wheel.
 
any opinions on that decision would be appreciated regarding reliability and 
performance (i like to play with that toy!) would a mechanical be too slow to 
adjust?
 
Thanks
 
Bruno Lachance
C&C 33 mkII
Becassine
 
 

 

 


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Stus-List Yanmar 2gm20 crush washers?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Anybody happen to know what copper crush washers to buy for Yanmar 2gm20? The 
banjo fittings on my secondary fuel filter is weeping. I'd prefer not to take 
it apart to find out since we are out on the boat so often. Like to have therm 
in hand before starting the replacement. There may be others I imagine.

Thanks
Kevin
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Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters. 

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/ebola-outbreak/

Boatless Yanni.

Take a look at this brief documentary from Frontline. A government
conspiracy? But I guess everything is...

Let's stick to butyl and C&C fin keel conspiracies, which is perhaps,
comprehendible for everybody on the list as Sam suggested.

KD



Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 8:34 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don't think we're immune to having a really serious problem. I'm hopeful
> it doesn't come to that but I think there is some potential.
>
> To set the mood:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sYSyuuLk5g
>
> There are a lot of people flying into Toronto from all over the world,
> every day. 8.8 million international passengers flew into Pearson so far
> this year (that number does not include the more than 7 million Americans).
> From the WHO website: *"The incubation period, that is, the time interval
> from infection with the virus to onset of symptoms is 2 to 21 days. Humans
> are not infectious until they develop symptoms."*
>
> Symptoms are flu like. It's flu season. Someone could get off a plane and
> 'get the flu' 2 weeks later and start showing symptoms at their workplace,
> the subway, you name it. The nurses that got sick, they were taking every
> precaution they could .. what chance does a person have on a crowded
> subway?
> http://mathbench.umd.edu/modules/popn-dynamics_exponential-growth/page15.htm
>
> I don't think that's *going* to happen, I just think it's not out of the
> realm of possibility, so it should be taken seriously.
>
> I think Brent got it right though, "C&C forever!"
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:15 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You guys can't figure out how to clean up Butyl - there's no way your
>> going to get your heads around the Ebola crisis!
>>
>> sam :-)
>>
>>
>> On 2014-10-16, at 6:53 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Josh,
>>
>> Agree.  But why did they separate the two infected nurses, the ones that
>> care for the ebola patient who died,  and send them to different hospitals
>> for care?  That doubles the number of people exposed.  Maybe it's for
>> training the hospital staff?
>>
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>
>> --
>> *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> *To: *w...@wbryant.com, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" > >
>> *Sent: *Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:50:00 PM
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Ebola?
>>
>> Over the last 4 weeks I believe we are up to 6 total infected people 2
>> cured, 1 dead.  By comparison 6 people per DAY die from electrocution.  We
>> need to keep it in control but it is hardly a pandemic.  Oddly they are now
>> choosing to transport an infected patient from Texas to Bethesda, MD.
>> Seems like maybe a questionable decision.
>>
>> Josh
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Oct 16, 2014 7:36 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola
>>> in the US and Canada.
>>>
>>> Wal
>>>
>>> --
>>> s/v Stella Blue
>>> www.wbryant.com
>>>
>>>
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