Please tell me that C&C / Rob Ball figured this whole mess out and took a lesson learned by the time the 30-2 came out. I am pretty sure my mast step looks nothing like this. I would rather go sailing than deal with this.
On Tue, Jun 2, 2015, 7:09 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > And I see you missed commenting on the ceiling leak that happened at the > deckhead. The next thing you know people will be talking about their jib > tracks mounted on the topside or converting the sloop to a cutter. > > As they say up north and down south, "Have at 'er mate." > > Seriously though Dennis, how could you? Everyone knows that floors run > athwartship. > > Cheers, Russ > > At 05:19 PM 02/06/2015, you wrote: > > Oh, no. Are the nomenclature police offended? Stringer vs floor? > > Didn't we have a lengthy thread on these terms a couple of years ago? I > recall reading it in the salon....uh main cabin....uh....saloon. > > > > Dennis C. > > On Tue, Jun 2, 2015 at 5:16 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > There appears to be three or more bundles of fibers (glass?) which follow > the contour of the hull from side to side - each one of the cross members > rests on one of these bundles and the keel bolts (as I remember) go through > the bundles as well. I'll check as soon as it quits raining. >  > Gary > Wet Maryland > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Ronald B. Frerker <rbfrer...@yahoo.com> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2015 3:29 PM > > Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 > > Interesting that C&C put a third cross member in. My boat is a 1973, > #166, and it only has the two. > > When I repaired the step last year, I put a third member in between the > other two. > > Also, my two original, and the third I put in, all rest on the curved > shoulder of the bilge. They don't appear to be structural other than > dedicated to hold up the mast. > > Trying to conform to the curve of the bilge, it was not regular, was the > toughest part. > > Ron > Wild Cheri > STL > > > > From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net > > Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:58 PM > Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 > > Nate, your 30 is the same year as mine, so I would surmise they are built > the same. Mine is #593. > >  > > There are three crosswise stringers under the oak plate. The aluminum box > is attached to the oak by long screws and the oak plate is attached with > six long screws. The oak comes off easily. > >  > > Depending on how dry your bilge has been kept, the stringers may or may > not be weakened. If so, the fixes have ranged from removal and replacement > to just strengthening. I went the strengthening route and framed each > stringer with a bit of foam board and drilled a bunch of holes in each and > filled with G-Flex up to the level of the oak. No movement in about five > years. > >  > > The problem is that the factory didn't encapsulate the stringers (which > are made up of two pieces of 3/4" plywood each) on the bottom, and when the > bilge is wet, they soak up moisture and get waterlogged. There's glass just > on the sides. > >  > > Some fixers have just put a large horizontal tube for drainage and another > for access to the forward keel bolt and then filled the whole cavity with > some sort of filler (microballoons, etc.). You could just fill the lowest > part so that your bilge pump keeps things dry, but to get all the water > out, the pump has to be in the lowest part of the sump - under the mast. > Inaccessible. > >  > > Another bypass fix would be to put in a bilge drain. My boat had that, and > foolishly I filled up that area. I should have replaced it with one which > is flush to the outside, then for half of the year, the bilge is totally > dry. > >  > > I don't have pictures, but when you take the screws out of the oak, it > will be pretty obvious what is there. > >  > > Good luck, email if you have questions, I have been down the road twice. > >  > > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >
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