I have an external rocker switch that disconnects the cockpit speakers.
Bill Bina
On 5/8/2013 9:15 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:
Steve,
I wired it to the main panel on the input side of the main DC
breaker. It only is shut off when I turn the big ON/OFF switch
(A/B/All for some folks.) That seem
We did it over 5 years ago with Sikaflex 295UV. No issues no leaks
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 8:35 PM
To: Thomas Mikos; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-
Martin
Sport boats have presented that problem all over North America. The
hjargon seems to be "Sport Boats" vs "Lead Mines".
The ideal solution is to race the sport boats in a separate class by
themselves esp in a distance race since they sail so much faster on some
angles than other - particu
One club member has had his two lead acid wet cell batteries for 12
years and another for 10 years.they both are launching again this
year with the same, old batteries. My GNB group 27's are now heading
into their 6th year and I have abused them (let the electrolyte get low
to expose the l
Thanks John & Maryann ,
Is the Sikaflex 295UV quick setting or did you have to build forms for an
extended trying time? Will be trying to keep myself and crew try for the
Chicago Mac race.
Tom Mikos
Escape C&C 33-2
Hammond Indiana
From: John and Maryann R
heh
I have the opposite problem. After a hard reset my deck turns my cockpit
speakers OFF :)
But only when streaming bluetooth audio, which is all I really do. It's
like 5 layers into the menu and a PITA to set up each time.
15 amp fuse is what I have been reading people use on this wire, would th
16 gauge will work fine and a 5-15 A fuse is just there for fire prevention,
not to protect the equipment.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-05-09, at 10:16, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
heh
I have the opposite problem. After a hard reset my deck turns my cockpit
speakers OFF :)
But only wh
Hello Again, Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old
wire/double braid halyards? If so, where did you have them done and would know
about the splice? I'm going through this exercise for two reasons; It seems
like a really good idea for strength and I would not have to repl
Danny,
Used VPC with the old sheaves.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:28 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:
> Hello Again,
>
> Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old wire/double
> braid halyards?
>
> If so, where did you have them done and would know about the sp
I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason but I
will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.
To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the sheave
and sheave box. Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the opening in
the mast to accommodat
L-36.com has instructions on how to do that sort of splice.
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:36 AM, Dennis C. wrote:
> I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason
> but I will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.
>
> To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to chan
The reason I used gels and now AGMs is nothing to do with lasting a long time
and everything to do with having acid in bilge during a hurricane :(
I could buy high quality wet cells like golf carts ($) or Rolls ($$) and
get a long life out of them or just swap out cheap batteries every few ye
The thinnest marine wire would work fine as would a 3 amp fuse. There is almost
no current on that wire.
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stereo co
Voila!!Nice Joel, Thanks!! I'm going to send this over to cajun. Danny
-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson
To: "Dennis C." , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:40:33 -0400
L-36.com has instructions on how
Tom:
I also used Sikaflex 295UV as the adhesive for my windows about 4 years
ago. Depending on the temperature and humidity, you should allow the
Sika to cure for at least 24 hours. I left mine for 48 hours.
To keep the windows in place during the curing, I placed pieces of 2" X
4" jammed
Danny:
If you still have your original sheaves, you might want to replace them anyway.
I had my mast down in March, and when inspecting the sheaves, I found them to
be well past the time when they should have been replaced. I replaced the jib
and main halyard sheaves with delrin sheaves from Z
This is done very often in the racing world for weight reduction.
Basically, you strip the cover off of a high-tech line like EnduraBraid
or Warpspeed or your favorite Vectran cored line.
I did it myself for all my halyards, but I'm funny like that.
For one of my halyards, its Endurabraid with t
I installed an ST40 thru-hull in my bow where the old knot-meter thru-hull
used to be. Same size hole and all. Backing block was completely dry and
rot free so I left it alone and didn't replace it. I used 4200 to seal the
thing in there. Now, the hole is located at the 'vee' of the hull and the
in
Hi Alan,
I appreciate the heads-up and will cheer for Frank. I fondly
remember out trip together.
Thanks, Lee
Tomorrow, May 9, 2013, is the start of the Oregon Offshore
International Yacht Race. The race starts at the mouth of the
Columbia River at Astoria, Oregon, and finishes inside t
Steve,
Try Blue Heron Marine for the housing. It is an Airmar transducer with a
Ray label.
I'd go with your gut. If I remember correctly, you are on a mooring
without a charger. If the leak gets worse, you are literally sunk!
Sorry!
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:09 AM, Stevan
Better start cheering then, he's almost bringing up the rear!
And this little excerpt from the Electric Fever Poem,
<< I must go down to the sea again, and not leave friends behind
And so they never get seasick we'll use the web online
And all I ask is an Internet with satellites over me
And beam
Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place.
Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the
threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much
force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the
thru-hull now I'm in trouble.
Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
I am indeed on a mooring
Steve,
You could try backing off the housing nut a very small amount to get rid of
any slight deformation and see if the leak stops.
A silly question but you said that you said that you could "jiggle" the
transducer and make it leak.
I don't think the transducer should be able to wiggle in th
Your distortion theory gets my vote, unless there was a manufacturing defect
and the transducer somehow doesn't fit the housing. I
would not rule out the possibility of a manufacturing defect, especially since
your cost of just trying another one would be
pretty high. Sometimes things get assembl
Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and, if
necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
Chris Price
Pradel
35 Mk I
- Original Message -
From: "Stevan Plavsa"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
Subject: Re:
Race starting time is 10:00 am Pacific Time.
Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the
transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will
vary the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle"
but I can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves
a millimetre or two when
73 Viking 33
>Westport Point, MA
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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<http:/
Rick, thanks for the separate email with the attachment, that is one
thorough manual! The one I got wasn't that thorough. But the instructions
are the same in any case I'm just impressed that the one you sent had PCB
schematics!
Anyway .. my transducer looks different, so does the plug. The lower o
Steve -- I'm pretty sure I have one of the bronze retractable speed/temp
transducers at home, still new in the box. If so, I could ship it to you; that
might help you get it quicker. Just replace it when you've got another one in,
or send me the $$$ and I can replace it. I hope this helps.
is it cross threaded?
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 1:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
Hi, yup the cap nut is tightene
Thanks Fred, that's very helpful but if I go ahead I'll simply order it
from defender or binnacle. At this point it's not leaking anymore so it's
not a panic situation anymore.
The lock nut is not cross threaded, neither the cap nut.
One thing that sucks about this is that we renamed the boat. My
It wouldn't be a boat unless it gave you great stories to tell. Remind me to
tell you sometime about the first year I got my previous boat, a C&C30mkI -- I
renamed her properly, then she just about sank in the slip on the Fourth of
July… :^)
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C L
Yeah a guy at the club sank at his mooring last season .. Tanzer 26 .. he
had renamed that one too.
Great stories are one thing .. this story sucks so far! I bore myself
telling it!
Thank you all for the input and advice.
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:31 PM, Frederick G
Did you install the depth transducer? Are they the same? Can you swap the 2
transducers? If the leak moves, it's the transducer. If not, it's the thru
hull.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 9, 2013, at 12:08 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
> Rick, thanks for the separate email with the atta
Steve: those through hull casings are extremely tough. Those who have had to
remove them will attest to that. I suggest you pull the transducer, grease it
well and reinsert it. Put the cap on snugly and your problem leak may well
vanish.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-05-09, at 14
Rich I've had that transducer and plug in and out so many times that
opening a hole in the bottom of my boat has become a relaxed activity.
Larger o-rings stopped the leak. I'm just concerned that the integrity of
the thru-hull has been compromised.
Dennis, it's definitely the housing. I've replac
Man you have to stop that leak.if you can't do it yourself then get help
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: May 9, 2013 12:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subje
Older transducers will not fit the newer cases properly. You may well have a
mixed set. Your girlfriend might be right! :)
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-05-09, at 14:08, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
Rick, thanks for the separate email with the attachment, that is one thorough
manual! The
take pictures. post here and ask raymarine support or dealers. if as
simple as a different transducer for the housing a very simple fix.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Knowles Rich
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 2:53 PM
To: cnc-
The leak is stopped!
What I'm concerned about is the integrity of the housing. If it's indeed
deformed due to over tightening then how prone is it to .. breaking?
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:
> **
> take pictures. post here and ask raymarine s
Measure it.
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
The leak is stopped!
What I'm concerned about is
It will not break.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-05-09, at 15:12, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
The leak is stopped!
What I'm concerned about is the integrity of the housing. If it's indeed
deformed due to over tightening then how prone is it to .. breaking?
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is
done and I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill
on the mast front to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not
mount because on the raised area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas
with photos? or a pla
As I recall, the steaming light or sometimes called the bow light was a
Perko stern light, and instead of being mounted horizontally on the stern
rail, It was mounted vertically on a boss, welded to the mast.
I still have an old 30 mast, but the light has been removed.
I owned C&C 30, hull # 10
http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-Carver-25-Boat-W-260-OMC-GM-5-7-350-Perko-Stern-Anchor-Light-/281098170583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4172c1b0d7#ht_347wt_1164
Joe Della Barba
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Thursday, May 09
Is it the round all around light mounted on a metal doughnut looking thing
welded onto the front of the mast? Touche' had that. If so, it's a Perko 945
stern light. Easily found.
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/PKO-945DPSTS/?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google&gclid=CL_VhtePir
I suggest this might be an opportunity for improvement. I've installed deck
light/masthead combinations on those masts with good success. Those old Perko
lights were prone to clouding if they were plastic. Also, from the Colregs,
"Masthead light" (Steaming Light rk) means a white light on the c
The one I linked to is not a stern light – more like an anchor light.
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 7:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?
I suggest this migh
It was not quick setting. One of the essential keys is the spacers between
the new glass and the hull frame so there is sufficient thickness of
sealant. We drilled small holes in each corner and used screws to
temporarily hold the glass in place while it cured. It is very sensitive to
shelf life
It is a Perko.
I put a new one on my mast when I had it down last year.
Fitted perfectly.
Sam :-)
On 2013-05-09, at 6:32 PM, "Della Barba, Joe" wrote:
> The one I linked to is not a stern light – more like an anchor light.
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-l
Yeah. Same problem though.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-05-09, at 21:32, "Della Barba, Joe" wrote:
The one I linked to is not a stern light – more like an anchor light.
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Thursd
This is correct.
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 6:58 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
> Is it the round all around light mounted on a metal doughnut looking thing
> welded onto the front of the mast? Touche' had that. If so, it's a Perko
> 945 stern light. Easily found.
>
>
> http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/PK
I dropped my wires as well? How hard is it to drop new wires? there is 2
holes at the base of the mast that run under the front seat to a bus. How
hard s it to find new wires dangling down
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 6:58 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
> Is it the round all around light mounted on a metal dou
Flashlight and a piece of coat hanger wire with a hook bent on one end. If
needed, drill the holes out to 1/2 " or so.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-05-09, at 22:11, Curtis wrote:
I dropped my wires as well? How hard is it to drop new wires? there is 2 holes
at the base of the ma
Dennis, please explain the comment about changing out the sheaves and sheave
boxes.
Both my 25 and 38 which are about the same vintage as Touche had wire
to rope halyards. The sheaves were the type with a curved shape for the rope
and a small curved groove for the wire. Not the type with a
The Sony marine radio I installed last year has an 18ga wire and calls for a
1a or 2a fuse for the wiring to the memory. As someone already pointed out,
the current draw is a few milliamps.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, May 09,
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