I had Cajun make me up a couple of 7/16 spectra core halyards with an eye
splice on each of them; one for the genoa halyard and one for the main halyard.
I went with 7/16 only for the sake of the original Easylock rope clutches, not
because that size was needed for the loads. I have an '86 33-2 with the
"standard rig" and this stainless wire fitting at the masthead with two small
"gates" for the two wing halyards and one really small gate for the centre
forward halyard. I ended up sending both halyards back to Cajun to have them
strip the cover off 1/2 the length, to get the diameter down to what would pass
through the gates and even at that, I ultimately had to buy a wire/rope
prespliced halyard from West Marine for the centre genoa halyard. So now I have
a spare spectra core halyarrd for the main. They said that the urethane
coating on the spectra core would by ok for UV. I don't know what fitting is
at your masthead but if you are replacing wire, you might want to check the
available space up there. Gary at Cajun told me that the mast head sheave for
wire would probably be alright, but the main halyard I replaced was some kind
of double braid in any event and didn't show any indications of an issue in
that regard. I believe the OE main halyard would have been wire/rope as well.
One of the guys at the club with a 33-2 and the old rope clutches went to
warpspeed in a smaller size and then ended up putting a larger cover on the
portion of the halyard that is engaged by the rope clutch.
----- Original Message -----
From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 8:27:02 AM
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 88, Issue 22
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Spectra/double braid halyards (Dennis C.)
2. Re: Spectra/double braid halyards (Joel Aronson)
3. Re: Regarding Batteries (Della Barba, Joe)
4. Re: Stereo constant 12V (Della Barba, Joe)
5. Re: Spectra/double braid halyards (djhaug...@juno.com)
6. WindowA Again (Robert Abbott)
7. Re: Spectra/double braid halyards (Alan Bergen)
8. Re: Spectra/double braid halyards
(Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR)
9. Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak (Stevan Plavsa)
10. Re: Oregon Offshore Race (Lee Youngblood)
11. Re: Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak (Joel Aronson)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 06:36:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Message-ID:
<1368106597.25789.yahoomail...@web121902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason but I
will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.
To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the sheave
and sheave box.? Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the opening in
the mast to accommodate a wider sheave box.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com>
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 8:28 AM
>Subject: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
>
>
>
>Hello Again,
>?
>Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old wire/double
>braid halyards?
>?
>If so, where did you have them done and would know about the splice?
>?
>I'm going?through?this?exercise?for two reasons; ?It seems like a really good
>idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves to?accommodate?a
>larger diameter line.
>?
>I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of how to
>accomplish the end to end splice.
>?
>Danny
>Lolita
>1973 Viking 33
>Westport Point, MA
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:40:33 -0400
From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
To: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Message-ID:
<CAEL16P-Acz6pW0Y+hsETfG15QBr8dvbQw0dS+mtBWPymCV=-g...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
L-36.com has instructions on how to do that sort of splice.
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:36 AM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason
> but I will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.
>
> To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the
> sheave and sheave box. Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the
> opening in the mast to accommodate a wider sheave box.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2013 8:28 AM
> *Subject:* Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
>
> Hello Again,
>
> Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old wire/double
> braid halyards?
>
> If so, where did you have them done and would know about the splice?
>
> I'm going through this exercise for two reasons; It seems like a really
> good idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves
> to accommodate a larger diameter line.
>
> I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of how to
> accomplish the end to end splice.
>
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:50:12 -0400
From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Regarding Batteries
Message-ID:
<1073606396712942aee54d9a960e45a7187cc82...@hq-mb-07.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
The reason I used gels and now AGMs is nothing to do with lasting a long time
and everything to do with having acid in bilge during a hurricane :(
I could buy high quality wet cells like golf carts ($) or Rolls ($$$$$$) and
get a long life out of them or just swap out cheap batteries every few years.
In my former business I dealt with a large yacht that had 4 cracked 8Ds and
acid everywhere besides for my own acid spill adventure. IMHO there is a
significant safety advantage to AGM/Gel batteries. I also had a 24 volt
airplane battery spit acid all over my face. My dog would be coming to work
with me every day if I hadn't still had my sunglasses on.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Regarding Batteries
One club member has had his two lead acid wet cell batteries for 12 years and
another for 10 years.....they both are launching again this year with the same,
old batteries. My GNB group 27's are now heading into their 6th year and I
have abused them (let the electrolyte get low to expose the lead plates). They
still hold their charge under a load test.
My point is that if you don't need AGM's, a good quality lead acid battery has
proven that it can last a long time if properly used.
Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2013/05/09 1:38 AM, Jim Watts wrote:
If you're going to run aground so much, you might want to consider cheaper
batteries and a set of training wheels. ; )
On 8 May 2013 19:10, Chuck S
<cscheaf...@comcast.net<mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>> wrote:
I would buy wet cell batteries if money was tight and I didn't mind changing
them every 2 to 4 years.
The reason to buy expensive AGMs? No off gassing, no adding water, supposed to
work laying on their side or when submerged.
Ours are located under the aft berth, so I didn't want hydrogen gasses building
up there.
The batteries started the engine several times when we were heeled over 45
degrees stranded on a sand bar, and we got off. No acid in the bilge.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
________________________________
From: "Bob Moriarty" <bobmo...@gmail.com<mailto:bobmo...@gmail.com>>
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, May 8, 2013 8:20:06 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Regarding Batteries
I've formed the opinion (everyone has one), probably from this list, that a
good way to compare lead-acid batteries is by $/pound.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 11:50 AM, Bob Dryer
<bob07...@gmail.com<mailto:bob07...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I suspect that all batteries with the same label and/or warranty are not the
same. Because of shipping costs, it is likely that different brands come off
the same assembly line and are just branded differently. I also suspect that
warranties are mostly a marketing gimmick and have little to do with battery
longevity. The cost of honoring longer warranties is just a selling expense,
not an indicator of quality.
bob07052
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:51:29 -0400
From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stereo constant 12V
Message-ID:
<1073606396712942aee54d9a960e45a7187cc82...@hq-mb-07.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
The thinnest marine wire would work fine as would a 3 amp fuse. There is almost
no current on that wire.
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stereo constant 12V
16 gauge will work fine and a 5-15 A fuse is just there for fire prevention,
not to protect the equipment.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-05-09, at 10:16, Stevan Plavsa
<stevanpla...@gmail.com<mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>> wrote:
heh
I have the opposite problem. After a hard reset my deck turns my cockpit
speakers OFF :)
But only when streaming bluetooth audio, which is all I really do. It's like 5
layers into the menu and a PITA to set up each time.
15 amp fuse is what I have been reading people use on this wire, would that be
correct? I'll be hooking it up directly to the battery.
I can't recall now whether it's 14ga or 16ga wire.
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 6:07 AM, Bill Bina
<billb...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:billb...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
I have an external rocker switch that disconnects the cockpit speakers.
Bill Bina
On 5/8/2013 9:15 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:
Steve,
I wired it to the main panel on the input side of the main DC breaker. It only
is shut off when I turn the big ON/OFF switch (A/B/All for some folks.) That
seemed like a good compromise to me. Depending on how fancy your stereo is, it
can be a PITA to go through the setup constantly. For me, I use the fader to
control volume in the main cabin vs. cockpit. That's important. A few times I
have forgotten about that, and after doing something electrical have been
inside rockin' out to music or watching a movie without realizing that my
cockpit speakers are sharing my experience with anyone nearby. That's rude,
and embarrassing. For that reason I deliberately change the default display
color to 'red' so that if I see the default 'blue' color I know to check the
setup.
Wal
you wrote:
How many of you keep the yellow (constant 12V) hooked up to the battery at
all times?
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 13:53:26 GMT
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Message-ID: <20130509.095326.2451...@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Voila!!Nice Joel, Thanks!! I'm going to send this over to cajun. Danny
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
To: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:40:33 -0400
L-36.com has instructions on how to do that sort of splice.
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:36 AM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason but I
will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.
To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the sheave
and sheave box.� Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the
opening in the mast to accommodate a wider sheave box.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 8:28 AM
Subject: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Hello Again,�Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace
old wire/double braid halyards?�If so, where did you have them done and
would know about the splice?�I'm
going�through�this�exercise�for two reasons;
�It seems like a really good idea for strength and I would not have to
replace my sheeves to�accommodate�a larger diameter
line.�I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of
how to accomplish the end to end splice.�DannyLolita1973 Viking
33Westport Point, MA_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 09 May 2013 10:56:26 -0300
From: Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
To: Thomas Mikos <cc33s...@yahoo.com>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List WindowA Again
Message-ID: <518bab0a.5040...@eastlink.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
Tom:
I also used Sikaflex 295UV as the adhesive for my windows about 4 years
ago. Depending on the temperature and humidity, you should allow the
Sika to cure for at least 24 hours. I left mine for 48 hours.
To keep the windows in place during the curing, I placed pieces of 2" X
4" jammed from the toerail onto the window.....3 pieces of wood for each
window and placed bricks and rocks on top of the 2' X 4" to ensure a
tight seal.
No issues since.
Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2013/05/09 10:05 AM, Thomas Mikos wrote:
> Thanks John & Maryann ,
>
> Is the Sikaflex 295UV quick setting or did you have to build forms for
> an extended trying time? Will be trying to keep myself and crew try
> for the Chicago Mac race.
>
> Tom Mikos
> Escape C&C 33-2
> Hammond Indiana
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* John and Maryann Read <johnpr...@comcast.net>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2013 6:35 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List WindowA Again
>
> We did it over 5 years ago with Sikaflex 295UV. No issues no leaks
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Indigo
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 08, 2013 8:35 PM
> *To:* Thomas Mikos; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List WindowA Again
> I went with Dow 795 following Select Plastics recommendation. It's
> only been one year, but very happy with the results.
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On May 8, 2013, at 20:30, Thomas Mikos <cc33s...@yahoo.com
> <mailto:cc33s...@yahoo.com>> wrote:
>
> Just an inquiry to the group to determine if there is any new
> adhesives being used for window adherence for my CC33-2. I have
> reattached with Plexus or Methacrylate in the past and it appears
> that I am up for another try. Anything new or is it still plexus
> adhesives .
> Thanks Tom
> Hammond Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com <http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/>
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com <http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/>
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:19:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: Alan Bergen <alan-at-h...@comcast.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Message-ID:
<1357933169.1809037.1368109174812.javamail.r...@sz0030a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Danny:
If you still have your original sheaves, you might want to replace them anyway.
I had my mast down in March, and when inspecting the sheaves, I found them to
be well past the time when they should have been replaced. I replaced the jib
and main halyard sheaves with delrin sheaves from Zephyrwerks
(www.zephyrwerks.com).
Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 10:48:32 -0400
From: "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR"
<keith.morgenst...@navy.mil>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Message-ID:
<416555317bfacf4495f3085eb84b015101776...@naeawnydez11v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
This is done very often in the racing world for weight reduction.
Basically, you strip the cover off of a high-tech line like EnduraBraid
or Warpspeed or your favorite Vectran cored line.
I did it myself for all my halyards, but I'm funny like that.
For one of my halyards, its Endurabraid with the cover stripped off the
"end".
For another of my halyards, it's an Amsteel "end" spliced to a standard
polyester double braid so that I didn't have to pay for the expensive
stuff to lay in my cockpit when the sail was up.
Regardless, most shops can do this easily. For Example: APSLTD.com is
excellent and I've used their services in the past. LAYLINE.com was
excellent in the past, but I haven't had the opportunity to use them
since they changed management a few years ago.
-Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: djhaug...@juno.com [mailto:djhaug...@juno.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:28
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Hello Again,
Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old
wire/double braid halyards?
If so, where did you have them done and would know about the splice?
I'm going through this exercise for two reasons; It seems like a really
good idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves to
accommodate a larger diameter line.
I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of how
to accomplish the end to end splice.
Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:09:35 -0400
From: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
Message-ID:
<CADdEvn6X0PufBw6duzE+Lo1f7TA85QZ7MvO=g5z8cgfheqk...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I installed an ST40 thru-hull in my bow where the old knot-meter thru-hull
used to be. Same size hole and all. Backing block was completely dry and
rot free so I left it alone and didn't replace it. I used 4200 to seal the
thing in there. Now, the hole is located at the 'vee' of the hull and the
instructions say "hand tighten only". Well, I hand tightened alright, but
like .. hand TIGHTENED. Apparently I'm a lot stronger than whoever wrote
the instructions ... I'll get to that later.
As soon as the boat was floating I went in and had a look at all of the
thru-hulls .. all but one, of course, the new knot meter! I had also
replaced a thru-hull for the galley drain located just behind the
companionway steps this winter and last year I replaced three others. No
problems with any of those.
I'm blaming a stressful launch for my failure to check on that thru-hull.
Anyway, it was leaking. We only discovered while underway half way back to
the club. I didn't want to go back because I swore I'de never go back there
after my experience with haul-out and launch this year, it's a terrible
place. I figured if I have to haul the boat I'll do it somewhere else and
there are other places. The leak wasn't sinking the boat or anything but I
noticed something odd .. a previous owner had glassed over the limber hole
from the bow section to the bilge. So, the bilge pump wasn't going and the
bilge water wasn't rising so that's another reason I didn't notice. I'm on
a mooring so I took the boat to the shared dock to survey the situation.
The leak was pretty bad. The bow had about a foot of water in it after 45
minutes in the water, not good.
I bailed all the water out to observe the leak and it was surely coming
from the housing, NOT from between the hull and thru-hull fitting ..
rather, from between the thru-hull fitting (housing) and transducer. Ok I
thought, it's either the housing or the ducer .. I put in the blank, same
leak. Ok, so it's the housing, WTF.
I messed with it until I got the leak slowed down to a trickle and left it
alone. Yes both o-rings were present on both the transducer and blank plug,
I had also lubed them with the provided silicon lubricant. This housing
keep in mind, is the newer design with the flapper valve, whole thing is
plastic. I drove back to check on it again later that evening and the water
ingress wasn't too bad. I bailed the half bucket of water out and called it
a night.
The next morning I took the day off work and started making calls to local
marinas pricing out a haul out and calling the chandleries to find a
replacement thru-hull. No one had what I needed in stock and everyone was
busy with launch, they could make time for me, but it was going to be
expensive! I weighed my options and decided to try the cheapest, lowest
risk option first .. bigger o-rings. This was recommended to me by an
employee at one of the chandleries and he pretty much saved the day. I
happened to have the EXACT o-ring on board! One of them anyway, the larger
upper one .. I had purchased a pack of replacement o-rings for the fuel
fill, there were three o-rings in the package so I had two left, just
enough for both the plug and ducer!
This slowed the ingress down to a trickle, barely noticable. After 45
minutes there was maybe two tablespoons of water in the bow. Ok, now we're
making progress. I went to home depot and bought a pack of assorted o-rings
but none of them were the right diameter or thickness ... I also purchased
yellow plumbers tape. I put a few wraps around the ducer UNDER where the
lower o-ring is located and slipped the o-ring over the layers of plumbers
tape. LEAK STOPPED. Just about anyway, if I 'jiggle' the transducer I can
get it to leak but if i leave it alone the area remains dry.
My theory is that I overtightened the thru-hull fitting causing it to
deform due to it's location on the curved part of the hull. The hole is
flat mind you and the flange fits in just fine but I don't know .. that's
my theory. I know that these plastic thru-hulls are prone to cracking when
over-tightened... I don't think mine is cracked because the larger o-rings
have stopped the leak.
So finally my questions:
1. is my thinking ok? Is it possible that the housing IS in fact cracked? I
can't see any cracks.
2. how critical is a boat haul? If the housing isn't cracked what are the
chances that it COULD crack while in some chop or something? I imagine the
hull is pretty rigid up there at the vee of the bow, it's thick and not a
large unsupported area.
My gut tells me to haul the boat and replace the thru-hull with raymarine's
bronze version but thats' going to be a very expensive exercise. The
original knot meter fitting was plastic as well and that lasted 32 years.
Thanks all.
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 23:47:31 -0700
From: Lee Youngblood <leeyoungbl...@earthlink.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race
Message-ID: <a06240826cdb0f6903813@[192.168.15.3]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
Hi Alan,
I appreciate the heads-up and will cheer for Frank. I fondly
remember out trip together.
Thanks, Lee
>Tomorrow, May 9, 2013, is the start of the Oregon Offshore
>International Yacht Race. The race starts at the mouth of the
>Columbia River at Astoria, Oregon, and finishes inside the harbor at
>Victoria, BC. Two C&C's are entered: Cool Change, a C&C Landfall
>38, hull number 1, skippered by Frank Noragon, and Katzenjammer, C&C
>34, skippered by Jim Calnon. You can watch their progress by going
>to Oregonoffshore.org, and clicking on Race Tracker.
>
>Alan Bergen
>C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
>Rose City YC
>Portland, OR
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
--
Lee Youngblood <l...@1gigharbor.com> (425) 444-9109
Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker
Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778
GHYS website: http://www.1gigharbor.com/
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:26:59 -0400
From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
Message-ID:
<cael16p87drcwmqo+ut4ofv4nx_+7fjrhrdhjpcrteuhsmaj...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Steve,
Try Blue Heron Marine for the housing. It is an Airmar transducer with a
Ray label.
I'd go with your gut. If I remember correctly, you are on a mooring
without a charger. If the leak gets worse, you are literally sunk!
Sorry!
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:09 AM, Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>wrote:
> I installed an ST40 thru-hull in my bow where the old knot-meter thru-hull
> used to be. Same size hole and all. Backing block was completely dry and
> rot free so I left it alone and didn't replace it. I used 4200 to seal the
> thing in there. Now, the hole is located at the 'vee' of the hull and the
> instructions say "hand tighten only". Well, I hand tightened alright, but
> like .. hand TIGHTENED. Apparently I'm a lot stronger than whoever wrote
> the instructions ... I'll get to that later.
>
> As soon as the boat was floating I went in and had a look at all of the
> thru-hulls .. all but one, of course, the new knot meter! I had also
> replaced a thru-hull for the galley drain located just behind the
> companionway steps this winter and last year I replaced three others. No
> problems with any of those.
>
> I'm blaming a stressful launch for my failure to check on that thru-hull.
> Anyway, it was leaking. We only discovered while underway half way back to
> the club. I didn't want to go back because I swore I'de never go back there
> after my experience with haul-out and launch this year, it's a terrible
> place. I figured if I have to haul the boat I'll do it somewhere else and
> there are other places. The leak wasn't sinking the boat or anything but I
> noticed something odd .. a previous owner had glassed over the limber hole
> from the bow section to the bilge. So, the bilge pump wasn't going and the
> bilge water wasn't rising so that's another reason I didn't notice. I'm on
> a mooring so I took the boat to the shared dock to survey the situation.
> The leak was pretty bad. The bow had about a foot of water in it after 45
> minutes in the water, not good.
>
> I bailed all the water out to observe the leak and it was surely coming
> from the housing, NOT from between the hull and thru-hull fitting ..
> rather, from between the thru-hull fitting (housing) and transducer. Ok I
> thought, it's either the housing or the ducer .. I put in the blank, same
> leak. Ok, so it's the housing, WTF.
>
> I messed with it until I got the leak slowed down to a trickle and left it
> alone. Yes both o-rings were present on both the transducer and blank plug,
> I had also lubed them with the provided silicon lubricant. This housing
> keep in mind, is the newer design with the flapper valve, whole thing is
> plastic. I drove back to check on it again later that evening and the water
> ingress wasn't too bad. I bailed the half bucket of water out and called it
> a night.
>
> The next morning I took the day off work and started making calls to local
> marinas pricing out a haul out and calling the chandleries to find a
> replacement thru-hull. No one had what I needed in stock and everyone was
> busy with launch, they could make time for me, but it was going to be
> expensive! I weighed my options and decided to try the cheapest, lowest
> risk option first .. bigger o-rings. This was recommended to me by an
> employee at one of the chandleries and he pretty much saved the day. I
> happened to have the EXACT o-ring on board! One of them anyway, the larger
> upper one .. I had purchased a pack of replacement o-rings for the fuel
> fill, there were three o-rings in the package so I had two left, just
> enough for both the plug and ducer!
>
> This slowed the ingress down to a trickle, barely noticable. After 45
> minutes there was maybe two tablespoons of water in the bow. Ok, now we're
> making progress. I went to home depot and bought a pack of assorted o-rings
> but none of them were the right diameter or thickness ... I also purchased
> yellow plumbers tape. I put a few wraps around the ducer UNDER where the
> lower o-ring is located and slipped the o-ring over the layers of plumbers
> tape. LEAK STOPPED. Just about anyway, if I 'jiggle' the transducer I can
> get it to leak but if i leave it alone the area remains dry.
>
> My theory is that I overtightened the thru-hull fitting causing it to
> deform due to it's location on the curved part of the hull. The hole is
> flat mind you and the flange fits in just fine but I don't know .. that's
> my theory. I know that these plastic thru-hulls are prone to cracking when
> over-tightened... I don't think mine is cracked because the larger o-rings
> have stopped the leak.
>
> So finally my questions:
>
> 1. is my thinking ok? Is it possible that the housing IS in fact cracked?
> I can't see any cracks.
> 2. how critical is a boat haul? If the housing isn't cracked what are the
> chances that it COULD crack while in some chop or something? I imagine the
> hull is pretty rigid up there at the vee of the bow, it's thick and not a
> large unsupported area.
>
> My gut tells me to haul the boat and replace the thru-hull with
> raymarine's bronze version but thats' going to be a very expensive
> exercise. The original knot meter fitting was plastic as well and that
> lasted 32 years.
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
--
Joel
301 541 8551
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