Dennis, please explain the comment about changing out the sheaves and sheave
boxes.

 

Both my 25 and 38 – which are about the same vintage as Touche’ – had wire
to rope halyards. The sheaves were the type with a curved shape for the rope
and a small curved groove for the wire. Not the type with a v-shaped grove
you see in some sheaves. I converted to all rope (3/8” in the 25 and 7/16”
on the 38 – StaSet in both cases) halyards and have seen no deformation or
chafe in the halyards in 10 years of use on the 38, and more like 15 on the
25. Plus the StaSet is just about as strong as the wire part of the wire to
rope halyards I replaced.

 

If you have the “round groove” type of sheaves, I wonder if you would need
to change them.

 

In the last few months I’ve bought two sets of spin sheets made of Dyneema
or Dyneema/MFP blend. Both the 3/8 Salsa sheets and the 5/6 light air
Flight-Line sheets are far stronger than I really need, but they float –
which will avoid reoccurrence of an expensive prop shaft and engine repair
that resulted from my last set of non-floating sheets. I’ve been thinking
that my next halyard purchase will also be Dyneema.

 

I don’t know what diameter the wire in your current halyard is, but here is
a comparison of strength of Samson AmSteel Blue with 1x19 304 stainless wire
for running rigging:

 

Diameter             Amsteel               304 Wire

5/32                       3600                       2500

3/16                       4900                       3700

¼                             7700                       6400

 

Of course 304 wire is stronger than 316 wire of the same diameter.

Amsteel Blue can be routed around sheaves with a diameter 8 times the line
diameter, so 2” sheaves will do.

Amsteel Blue has elongation of 0.96% at 30% of break strength, while the
wire varies from 2.3% for 5/32 to 2.4% for ¼”.

 

There is a line supplier in Pennsylvania from whom I have bought a
considerable amount of running rigging over the years (I used to live in the
next town over from his warehouse). He’s reliable and Samson dealer. He has
¼” 12-plait Dyneema SK75 halyard line on EBay right now for $0.90 per foot.
I don’t think it is Samson, but it appears to be functionally identical.

 

So I paid $1.60 something a foot for StaSet with a break strength of 7000
pounds. The stuff has elongation over 2% at 20% load. Or I can buy Dyneema
that is 10% stronger and about a third the weight ( plus being lighter, 20%
stronger,  and less than half as stretchy as the wire in the original
halyards) for about half the cost of StaSet. And splicing 12-plait Dyneema
is child’s play, a lot like splicing a poly ski rope, so I did it myself on
the sheets I made from Salsa line and saved that cost.

 

I know I can’t run the ¼ inch line through my cabin top rope clutches. But
given the strength and low stretch, I don’t see it as a problem to use the
winch and the companion horn cleat mounted on the mast to raise and secure
the halyard.

 

It seems like Dyneema halyards are a pretty good option. At least as long as
there is not something that would require a change to the mast sheaves.
Hence my question at the top of this long and rambling message.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

 

I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason but
I will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.

To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the
sheave and sheave box.  Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the
opening in the mast to accommodate a wider sheave box.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 

 

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