Dave;
Could he have been referring to Dyform wire? That is a multi-strand wire made
of individual wires that are sort of wedge shaped in cross section, so the
strands are packed more densely than in conventional wire. It has both smaller
diameter and greater tensile strength than conventiona
Boom cracked at boom vang attachment:
I'd get it welded and ask for some reinforcement like an aluminum pipe be
welded or screwed inside to spread the load of the vang. You have a chance to
make the thing stronger, take it.
If you replace it, I'd highly recommend Selden. My personal favori
Hi Jason,
We have a Perkins M30 in our 35-II. Sweet engine, compact and fairly quiet,
but not as smooth and quiet as the Atomic-4 we had in our earlier boat. When I
needed to replace the starter, I had to pull the alternator and stack all my
extensions to make a tool long enough to reach the
Are you replacing another diesel or an AT4? That will make a big
difference.
Dennis C.
On Nov 3, 2016 5:04 PM, "Jason Shoemake via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I'd like to get the lists thoughts on repowering a '78, 29 II with an M
> 30. Anyone done this, any experience with these two?
> I've located t
I'd like to get the lists thoughts on repowering a '78, 29 II with an M 30.
Anyone done this, any experience with these two?
I've located the donor power plant for around $3000 USD. Needs strainer, racor,
and maybe a few other things. Seller says cables come with it, not sure if
that's electric
For the non-mechanic; The oil pressure alarm should sound for a second or two
when you start your engine and then shut off. (Assuming your alarm speaker,
wiring, and ignition circuit are all ok)
Or you can disconnect the wire from the sending unit and measure the resistance
from the sending un
OK, how does one who is is not knowledgeable about such things know when an
oil pressure switch is bad...how would I know if "sticks" open? (non-mechanic,
no history of mechanical skills)??
thanks
Richard
S/V Bushmark4; C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596.6
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenrid
It's on the pressure side of the oil pump. As long as the engine is not
running you will only get a small amount of leakage. Just hold an absorbent
towel under it and change it quickly.
Dennis C.
On Nov 3, 2016 12:49 PM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I just changed my 3HM35F’s oil and shor
You can coil rod Rigging to no less than 200 times it's diameter.
Dennis C.
On Nov 3, 2016 9:21 AM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I'm considering doing a rerig this winter. There are no obvious problems,
> but it's getting on 33 years now and would be nice for the peace of mind.
> Does
I'll be there earlier. There will probably be a parking problem, as SYSCO
has combined their awards banquet with OCSA's. Look for me when you
arrive, and I'll look at your boom if it's convenient.
Alan
On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 10:00 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
Original message:
Dave Bodnar, several of your messages have this message attached:
An HTML attachment was scrubbed... followed by hypertext.
What does this mean Stu?
I assume there was an attachment to his replies.
Mike Amirault
Answer:
I think Dave was using Thunderbird Mail program and his e
Yes and no.
A small amount will leak and may allow you filter to drain (trickle) but
the sump will not. I wouldn't remove it until you have a plug or a
replacement.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 3, 2016 1:49 PM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I just changed my
I just changed my 3HM35F's oil and shortly after noticed that the oil
pressure switch is bad. Sometimes it 'sticks' open indicating the oil
pressure is OK. I've ordered a new switch.
When the old switch is removed, will oil leak out? I can't figure out if
the oil level in the engine is above
Just coil it up, about 5' dia. Then wrap the coiled wire with a roll of
foam, the type that goes between the basement wall and the house.
You end up with a blue, or pink, hula hoop.
I shipped my up, and South Shore shipped it back like that.
Don't need any wood backing.
From: Bill Bina -
Normally unburnt fuel shows up as black smoke in the exhaust. When
mixed with water in our wet exhaust systems, that tends to be blackish
water mixed with black smoke. Not sure what you saw in your exhaust but
if it was an oil sheen, that would indicate liquid oil, which would have
to be real
I did a complete job on mine last winter.
With mast out.
Removed all the rod and shipped it to South Shore yacht in Ontario.
They inspected everything and replaced backstay, uppers, all turnbuckle males,
and all tangs.
Reheaded the rest.
My tangs were SS with an aluminium threaded joining par
Alan I'll be there around 5
Fred
On Nov 3, 2016 8:07 AM, "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Fred:
>
> If you're going to be at the Tropical Awards Party on Saturday, maybe I
> can take a look at your boom.
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 6:45 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-l
Patrick,
Timely. I just got a phone message from a rigger that I contacted about
updating my mast, standing and running rigging. I have rod rigging which was
reheaded in 1999. At that time I converted from the Navtec K100 (Frankenstein…)
tang fittings to newer K200 tangs.
The rigger mentioned
Right, I totally get the mast would need to be pulled if I were reheading.
Doing it one side at a time would take too long. I'm not planning to rehead
though. From what I've heard it seems like reheading only saves a moderate
percentage of money, and getting new rod gives me extra piece of mind tha
Important note gleaned from personal experience. UPS will not accept any
packaging with a wood surface. That means that if you roll up your
rigging, you cannot pack it between two sheets of luan plywood. Has to
be cardboard, or else go by LTL motor freight, which may have it's own
rules.
Bill
Shipping the rod may not be practical but it is possible if necessary.
Rod can be 'rolled' into a circle whose diameter depends on the rod
diameter--IIRC for my 36 XL, I think the yard rolled it into about a 6'
diameter circle before it was securely tied up and shipped via UPS or FedEx to
Flor
Fred:
If you're going to be at the Tropical Awards Party on Saturday, maybe I can
take a look at your boom.
Alan
On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 6:45 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Alan, my boom had been welded in the same place. The weld broke. I had a
> large fibergl
If you have rod rigging, the rod needs to be reheaded. It is not a DIY
job. If you want to replace wire, I highly recommend Rigging and and
Hardware
www.RiggingAndHardware.com for great service and pricing. They did new
lifelines for my 44 for about $620. The rig would have to be down if you
w
Patrick
I am in the same boat (lol) and understand that in the upcoming couple of years
I will be faced with the problem.
I purchased my boat 2 years ago and the survey gave the standard evaluation
when buy a boat. So I hired rigger to give me his honest opinion.
I was told everything was top
I'm considering doing a rerig this winter. There are no obvious problems,
but it's getting on 33 years now and would be nice for the peace of mind.
Does anyone know of any blogs / websites / emails that do sort of a step by
step guide to do-it-yourself rerigging?
I'd like to do it myself to save o
Alan, my boom had been welded in the same place. The weld broke. I had a
large fiberglass and carbon boot made that was epoxied in place. So far
all good after almost 10,000 miles. I think if you can have crack welded
and then a plate formed and welded over the area it is cheaper solution.
Fre
Joel,
I’m not sure aluminum would be up to the task. I think stainless might be a
better choice. Same sizing, but much stronger, but even stainless will bend
under the right load. Perhaps a spar maker might be of assistance here. They
bolt on cranes all the time. A premade one might be
I would not recommend welding. There is a lot of force on the boom at the
boom bang attachment point so my recommendation is to get a replacement.
Mine broke during a race because of a small crack I had not seen.
Interestingly my rigger suggested the boom section (the original boom) was
not strong
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