Patrick, Timely. I just got a phone message from a rigger that I contacted about updating my mast, standing and running rigging. I have rod rigging which was reheaded in 1999. At that time I converted from the Navtec K100 (Frankenstein…) tang fittings to newer K200 tangs.
The rigger mentioned several things that I was aware of, one that I just wanted to ignore, to wit, the rod is 34-years old. Well past the due date per Navtec. The other, which I knew was that after rereading the rod, that was the limit. One and done. He mentioned some sort of new small diameter rod/wire standing rigging as a replacement but I failed to catch the name. Unless he can really convince me that it is better, I’m inclined to replace all the rod. The boat and rig were designed for rod. And I’ve already put money into new tangs. One thing that I did do back in 1999 was replace the forestay with wire due to a nick in the rod and adding a roller furling setup. The rigger is busy at the moment but we’ll be meeting in the yard sometime in the next week or so to go over my rebuild list and look at the rig. Right off the bat I know he’ll recommend/do a Level C inspection. I’ll post what I learn on my blog afterwards. FWIW, my rig is on the ground. Right next to my keel. ;-) Best, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > On Nov 3, 2016, at 12:16 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Right, I totally get the mast would need to be pulled if I were reheading. > Doing it one side at a time would take too long. I'm not planning to rehead > though. From what I've heard it seems like reheading only saves a moderate > percentage of money, and getting new rod gives me extra piece of mind that I > did the full job, plus simplifies some things - my backstay hydraulic > adjuster is also dead, so I will replace that at the same time, and if the > new adjuster is a different length, I'll simply order the new backstay to the > proper size. > > I also considered going wire instead of rod, but the rigger I talked to last > year said it might not save that much money converting to wire, considering > the cost of mast tangs or other changes that would need to be made. I could > easily go wire on just the forestay and backstay. But not sure that's worth > the inconsistency. > > Mostly I'm interested in the logistics of doing it DIY - for others that went > that route, what went wrong, what was easy, what was hard, etc. > > On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 8:15 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com <mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> > Cc: > Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2016 11:01:48 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38 > If you have rod rigging, the rod needs to be reheaded. It is not a DIY job. > If you want to replace wire, I highly recommend Rigging and and Hardware > www.RiggingAndHardware.com <http://www.riggingandhardware.com/> for great > service and pricing. They did new lifelines for my 44 for about $620. The > rig would have to be down if you want to send them the old wire. If its rod, > shipping is not practical, so they would go on measurements alone. > > Joel > Former 35/3 > Hylas 44 > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
