Right, I totally get the mast would need to be pulled if I were reheading. Doing it one side at a time would take too long. I'm not planning to rehead though. From what I've heard it seems like reheading only saves a moderate percentage of money, and getting new rod gives me extra piece of mind that I did the full job, plus simplifies some things - my backstay hydraulic adjuster is also dead, so I will replace that at the same time, and if the new adjuster is a different length, I'll simply order the new backstay to the proper size.
I also considered going wire instead of rod, but the rigger I talked to last year said it might not save that much money converting to wire, considering the cost of mast tangs or other changes that would need to be made. I could easily go wire on just the forestay and backstay. But not sure that's worth the inconsistency. Mostly I'm interested in the logistics of doing it DIY - for others that went that route, what went wrong, what was easy, what was hard, etc. On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 8:15 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote: > From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2016 11:01:48 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38 > If you have rod rigging, the rod needs to be reheaded. It is not a DIY > job. If you want to replace wire, I highly recommend Rigging and and > Hardware > www.RiggingAndHardware.com​ for great service and pricing. They did new > lifelines for my 44 for about $620. The rig would have to be down if you > want to send them the old wire. If its rod, shipping is not practical, so > they would go on measurements alone. > > Joel > Former 35/3 > Hylas 44 >
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