Dave;
Could he have been referring to Dyform wire? That is a multi-strand wire made of individual wires that are sort of wedge shaped in cross section, so the strands are packed more densely than in conventional wire. It has both smaller diameter and greater tensile strength than conventional wire. I had my 38 rerigged in about 2011, after one of the toggles in my rig broke during a race in windy and rough conditions. The old toggles may or may not have been original and also may have been of a generation that was recalled and replaced by Navtec. But I began to doubt the integrity of my (then) 35 year old rod rigging. Navtec says that dye testing is not adequate on old rod, and recommended replacement of rod over something like 20 years old. Their suggestion was to remove the rod , coil it on a pallet (I think it was Dennis C who said a coil of 200x rod diameter) with a coil about 5’ diameter, and ship it to them for non-destructive testing (X-ray, I think), and they would ship it back. Cost would have been about $3500 plus the cost of reheading or replacement depending on what the Navtec testing showed. My rigger suggested Dyform wire as a high value alternative. The wire turns out to be about 1/16th larger in diameter than the #10 rod (so slightly more windage) but also has a higher tensile strength than the rod it replaces. Rigger swaged on ends that fit the existing tangs in the mast, and used Sta-Loc fittings on the lower end so the wire could be cut to the proper lengths. Turns out that replacing the rod headstay with wire was probably a good idea. Maker of my furler (Bamar) recommends not using a rod headstay. They say that grit & dirt that gets into the bearings in the foil can score the rod and create stress risers that can lead to rod failure. The recommend installing a wire headstay if you have one of their roller furlers. All up cost for the Dyform wire rerigging of my 38 was about $3900 – just $400 more than the estimate from Navtec and the rigger for the R&R of the rod, shipping & inspection. Semmed like a good idea – and a lot less costly that reheading/replacing the rod. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2016 12:43 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38 He mentioned some sort of new small diameter rod/wire standing rigging as a replacement but I failed to catch the name. Unless he can really convince me that it is better, I’m inclined to replace all the rod. The boat and rig were designed for rod. And I’ve already put money into new tangs. One thing that I did do back in 1999 was replace the forestay with wire due to a nick in the rod and adding a roller furling setup.
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