Our new to us 30-2 started sounding a bit hollow and throwing some stream
out of exist the other night so I opened the water pump Sunday and found
this:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwhcX19YaPJ8N3E0cmJrYWwyTlE/edit?usp=docslist_api
Only one of the fins appeared to be completely in tact
So my qu
Reading the tread about halyards, and an earlier post about furlers reminded me
to ask a question of you racers out there: -
I don’t race - only because there’s no-one racing on our lake. Although I have
done a couple of Swiftsures.
But I like passing boats and hate it when boats pass me!
My
Winterizing Gabriela
1) Try to figure out if it is going to snow or be 60 degrees - no
forecast, map, radar, or local weather is ever correct in our part of the
world.
2) Get tired of trying to figure out the weather and turn on the heater
in the cabin and watch a football game
3)
If you want to wait until spring, I will have 2 1975 Barient #10, they look ok
although the chrome is a bit "tired". I think the bearing on 1 of them is shot(
noisy ) but pawl/springs are ok.
I bought 2 Lewmar #8 to replace them.
Sylvain
C&C27MkIII
From: Joh
Winterizing Ox:
1) Discharge lightning capacitors into battery bank.
2) Clean headliner while wondering what lurks between it and the deck.
3) Consider projects that I might get around to starting now that it's not
so damned hot.
4) Top the tank with ethanol-free gas (Ox has an A4).
5) Go sailing
Hey Dennis,
Godfrey Zincs look interesting. Good idea and nice quality product, though the
price is scary. A zinc for my 1 1/8" shaft costs $43 before shipping.
http://store-bbba2.mybigcommerce.com/godfrey-premium-streamlined-zincs/
I'll stick w my $7 zincs from below, and try the TefGel trick
I guess don't follow the adage of 10 aloft equals a man on the rail.
While the mast to rail distance is a factor of 10, there is a sin(heel) factor
for the aloft weight whereas it is a cos(heel) for the rail. That is, at zero
heel any weight aloft is equal to zero on the rail. At 20 degrees
Paul,
Thanks for the response. The16 is a bit too big for the job and the space
available but I will keep it in mind for any future applications. I will
soon have a couple of Barient 22's on my hands that I am replacing with
Lewmar ST 40 EVO winches.
John
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list
Once you sand the shaft bright and apply the zinc, TefGel will protect the
contact area from corrosion thus maintaining conductance between the shaft and
zinc contact. If you don't have good conductance between the zinc and shaft at
the onset, TefGel won't help. As in most boat work, preparati
Hi David,
Someone suggested using TefGel to ensure a better electrical bond between the
zinc and the prop shaft. If it is bonded well, the zincs might all wear evenly?
Never tried that.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "David Knecht"
To: "
Dwight,
Our sailing styles sound very much alike, most of my time nowadays is spent
cruising around with the wife and kids but I did spend I lot of time racing and
working all the different parts of the boats. The bottom line is that I would
not consider putting a wire halyard on my boat, the te
There are a lot of properties to look at when selecting the best material for
our halyards. The most obvious are stretch and strength. Creep, abrasion
resistance, ease of splicing, weight, and UV resistance are all important to.
We should also consider how we use the halyard. A halyard for a rol
Let me reiterate the point Dwight is making about getting the length at the
wire end right. You don't want the wire-to-rope splice going around the sheave
at the top of the mast and you don't want it going around a mast-mounted winch.
The splice is stiff and doesn't seem to have the same ben
Most oils do that, "lubricate and protect"
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake
Brodersen
Sent: December 2, 2013 7:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
Rick,
Fogging oil is also useful for fogging tools and equi
Ron
That sounds about right from my experience, but I like the way the boat
works with a slightly smaller headsail
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker
Sent: December 2, 2013 7:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List
Rick,
Fogging oil is also useful for fogging tools and equipment for storage. In
the military we used a product called PLS in the machine shop and the
armory. It lubricates and protects.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F
Right.I never go up there except when on the hook and neither does anyone
else.we carry a furling 135 and a main sail, both of them pretty good
performance sails but we don't race and we don't need to do headsail changes
on the fly to have fun and the rest of my numerous sails stay in the
basement.
The manual for my 30 indicates the rake should be 9in measured at the
gooseneck. I have a 1973 vintage.
I've sailed in 15kt with gusts and the 160 up and a bubble in half the main,
traveler down, with no problems with weather helm until the puffs hit. Granted
the rail was almost kissing the wa
Dwight, you obviously don't work on the pointy end of the boat! Whoever does
that on your boat is handling wire, and fish hooks suck
James
S/V Delaney
1976 C&C 38
Oriental, NC
- Original Message -
From: dwight
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 4:41 PM
Most often, halyard damage occurs at or near the eye splice at the working end. When buying halyards, particularly hi-tech halyards, I buy them 10-15 feet extra long so I can end for end them. If the byte end hasn't been loaded, you can usually splice an eye in it. Over the years, I truly believ
I never get the wire on my hands, so I don't worry about fish hooks.you need
to adjust length at the wire end to make that right.my boat was delivered
with rope to wire about 40 years ago.the sheaves don't mind some new wire.my
lines don't chew on each other.if they did I would change something.if
Hi David,
I switched to spectra for both genoa halyards and the main halyard.
They are expensive, they are much nicer on the hands and there is
no noticeable stretch. The weight aloft does make a differenceI
don't remember the numbers but 10 lbs aloft equals one man on the
rail.or somethin
Good sailmaker, Alan! Bet you wouldn't go anywhere else for a sail, now.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
On Dec 2, 2013, at 15:34, Alan Bergen wrote:
> Many years ago, when I
Many years ago, when I wasn't winning races with my first boat, I spoke with my
sailmaker about getting a new sail. Instead of selling me a new sail, he
suggested I work on my crew work, and only consider getting a new sail when I'm
losing races by seconds. Dave, are you losing races by seconds?
Marek,
You are correct about the length! I was thinking of the overall length, not
the hoisted length. Its Monday. My 35/3 has about a 45 foot mast, so with
the run to the clutch we are talking about 55 feet.
My VPC probably stretches no more than 4 inches as I load it. Dyneema does
not actually
Rope is lighter, DIY, easier on the hand, easier on the sheaves, rope
doesn't get fish hooks and won't chew on the other lines as bad. Often
times the rope will float depending on the material and may be hydrophobic.
You can also flip rope end for end when it starts to get worn or simply
freshen
Joel,
not exactly. I don’t know what kind of masts you guys have, but probably not in
the 100 ft range.
The halyard stretches only on the length of the mast plus the line from the
mast to the clutch (if you run it to the cockpit). Most of the boats we talk
about here have masts in the 40-45 ft
Path of least resistance for current flow is the shortest path, closest one
to the prop should go first
Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
On Mon, Dec 2, 2013 at 12:34 PM, Tim Goodyear wrote:
> I generally put two identical zincs on our prop shaft. When I hauled
I generally put two identical zincs on our prop shaft. When I hauled this
year one was 3/4 gone and the other fully intact. I was wondering what on
earth might have caused that until I saw this thread...
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
On Sun, Dec 1, 2013 at 9:50 PM, Chuck S wrote:
> Wow.
>
David,
The rope is stretching over the entire 100 foot -plus length.
Halyard tension should be adjusted during a race - less downwind, more
upwind.
You would need to check the sheaves to see if they were changed. Rope
compatible sheaves are more V shaped.
Rope is more of a DIY project unless you
In addition to photo album's rig tuning guide, I found the following document
from Selden very useful:
http://www.riggingandsails.com/pdf/selden-tuning.pdf
Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD
From: mikebc...@gmail.com
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 16:58:58 -0800
To: cnc-list@
David
I agree with you on that rational for using wire to rope halyards...I use
all wire to rope except for the spinn halyards
Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
On Mon, Dec 2, 2013 at 11:58 AM, David Knecht wrote:
> I was thinking about the recent discussions of n
David
Have your ruled out slippage of the halyards in the clutches? We have
this problem on a number of boats on which I sail.
Mike
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 11:58 AM
To: Cn
Go here: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/rod_rig_tuning.htm
It's on the home page of the photoalbum if you ever want to find it again.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>
> From: Mike Cain
>To: C&C
>Sent: Sunday, December 1, 2013 6:58 PM
>
I was thinking about the recent discussions of new high tech halyards and have a question. The PO replaced my halyards with all rope, but I don’t know what kind it is. I have noticed significant changes in sail shape over a day of sailing which I am presuming is stretch. Given the length of a ro
Sailors,
Can anyone advise a rig tuning rookie on tuning his rig?
A very experienced racing skipper came aboard and and gave me a few tips. All I
did was loosen the baby stay a few turnsand that seemed to make a big
improvement. So it got me thinking about the rest of the rig. Any ideas wou
I think it might be because your shaft zincs are further away from the prop
thaat they are protecting than the bullet zinc on the aft hub of the prop.
The bullet to fit my H5 Aotuoprop is quite expensive and I have to order it
from AB Marine in RI so I tried putting a doughnut zinc next to the prop
Hi Chuck- I had exactly the same experience after a May launch. The shaft
zincs looked fine at that time, so I left them and put a new bullet on the
prop. They still look pretty good and the bullet was nearly gone when I
hauled. It seems like we are getting differential erosion. What are you
Dwight;
Fogging oil is pretty much what you surmise: a light machine oil (think
3-in-1 Oil or sewing machine oil) in an aerosol can with a nozzle designed
to produce a very fine mist (like fog). The fog of oil gets drawn into the
cylinders with the airflow and coats any surface it touches. I re
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