Let me reiterate the point Dwight is making about getting the length at the wire end right. You don't want the wire-to-rope splice going around the sheave at the top of the mast and you don't want it going around a mast-mounted winch. The splice is stiff and doesn't seem to have the same bend radius as wire or rope. Also, the splice can be larger in diameter than the rope itself and is not very compressible which can cause problems with existing sheaves, etc. Adding a furler and a halyard restrainer was enough to throw off the length of wire on my existing genoa halyard. With the main halyard you've got to consider reefing, etc. I've seen some old jibs with pendants at the head. I'm pretty sure one of the purposes of a pendant was to adjust the hoist to suit the wire-to-rope halyard. It goes without saying that you can always shorten the length of wire.
Mark '73 C&C 25 ----- Original Message -----From: dwight <dwight...@gmail.com>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Mon, 02 Dec 2013 21:41:12 -0000 (UTC)Subject: Re: Stus-List halyards again I never get the wire on my hands, so Idon’t worry about fish hooks…you need to adjust length at the wireend to make that right…my boat was delivered with rope to wire about 40years ago…the sheaves don’t mind some new wire…my lines don’tchew on each other…if they did I would change something…if myhalyards get that close to the water that floating matters I am in big trouble…hydrophobic,I think steel wire is too Flipping end for end, really how many ofus do that, if it’s that bad on one end I just get a new one and withwire to rope that is about every 10-15 years for me…I can handle that
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