I have a couple of friends who have re-rigged offshore cruising boats with
single braid PBO line. Much lighter and much stronger than rod or wire of
similar diameter. You can splice it yourself (sort of like spicing a ski rope
with a couple of passes through the stay to lock the eye before you s
Jake:
My windows have been in for the past 5 years with Sika 295
UV.there are no frames, screws, etc, holding them in
placeno issues to date.
Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2013/05/10 10:0
Re 295 uv: When I used this product my windows sealed well, but the very
expensive paint needed to make the sealant stick deteriorated badly where it
was not covered by 295. Interestingly, It was supposed to protect against
uv rays.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On B
The in-mast sheaves on Both Belle and Imzadi are machined aluminum, with a
bronze bushing around the pin on which the sheave rotates. Must be a difference
between the mid-70s boats and the later models.
The Kenyon spar I fit to Belle in 2008 or 2009 had white plastic sheaves at the
masthead.
I replaced Ox's original(?) wire/rope headsail halyard with Cajun XLE. No
problems with the sheaves. Once in awhile I have to tighten the halyard to
remove a few wrinkles from the luff. I can live with that.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:28 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:
> Hello
John,
I recently rebidded my head hatch plexi with 295UV. I find it very
interesting that the instructions asked me to paint over the sealant and the
plexi to keep UV rays from degrading the sealant. I guess 295UV is not too
UV resistant.
I am debating whether to use Plexus again or 295UV
All the talk on the Laser site is about Dynex Dux. They heat the dynema and
it increases the strength and reduces the stretch. they are talking using it
for the standing rigging. I think the 4mm is good to 8800 lbs. I would have to
go back to the site to confirm it.
Mike VanderVaart
http:
Greetings all, hope your spring is progressing finally for many of you. By
now, most have probably heard the sad news about Artemis and crew Andrew
Simpson. There's an article about it in today's 'Lectronic Latitude, with
a link to the Wired magazine which Sailing Anarchy has also linked. But th
Curtis:
The link to Harken will give you an idea of how to set up jiffy reefing.
http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3900
Ed
Dream Girl '71 C&C 30 (for sale)
Briar Patch '81 C&C 34
From: Curtis
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com,
Date: 05/10/2013 12:00 PM
Subject:Re: Stus-List f
Here (diagram 2) is a link to what Anchovy runs. That winch on your boom is for
taking up on your reefs and or what appears to be your semi-internal outhaul.
Hope this is helpful.
http://www.ronstan.com/marine/reefing_systems.asp
Rick Bushie
s/v Anchovy
Sent from my iPhone_
Some personal experience with a gybe preventer on my previous boat (Viking
28)
During the Lake Ontario 300 (2010) we were sailing downwind in heavy seas (6
foot waves and high winds)
I had a gybe preventer rigged from mid boom to the toe rail near the upper
shrouds with the main on the port si
Ok, I think I figured it out - Extreme Pressure / Salt water
DG sails in fresh water - does that mean any EP grade grease is suitable or
is there a marine grade I should be using?
Thanks,
Steve
-Original Message-
From: OldSteveH [mailto:oldste...@sympatico.ca]
Sent: May-10-13 1:42 PM
T
I changed out my mast and boom sheaves after 16 years because they were worn
out from use and sun exposure, cracked, chipped, etc.
Certainly at the mast head, these plastic sheaves take a lot of sun exposure,
at least in NC.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-
Can anyone recommend a commonly available grease for my 2 blade variprop?
The manual calls for an 'EP/SAL' grade hydrophobic grease.
I cannot find any reference to this grease specification on the internet.
Thanks,
Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON
___
Hi,
I have heard of folks using Dyneema for a preventer because they feel that
stronger is better. Dyneema is actually a poor choice and can actually beak
in a sudden impulse before a simple nylon line would, but more importantly,
using Dyneema would provide a greater beating on the rigging t
Thanks again. This will help alot.
On 5/10/13, dwight veinot wrote:
> The manual for the st 4000 is on that site as well
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
; USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
>
>
>
> phone +401 965 5260
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/LTGoshen/LightAir-1.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/LTGoshen/Jibcar.jpg
Here is what mi boom looks like. I wish someone could draw a diagrapam
so I could run it correctly. I looks like what you discribed
On 5/10/13, Rick Bushie wrote:
> Anchov
On our boat, we have a custom boom (wedding present) that in addition to having
an internal outhaul and two reefing lines at the end of the boom, has a
preventer incorporated into it. A line runs from a line stopper in the cockpit
to a block at the base of the mast and up to the centrally placed
I did an unintended (stupid, careless) gybe in 20+ knots once, and the wind did
cause significant damage to my traveller car.
Broke it into 2 pieces in fact. It was made out of bronze and the thing that
impressed me was that the bronze stretched before it
broke, like a piece of toffee. Given the
Thanks guys! I could make a bridle that runs through the 3 rings that that
the mainsheet blocks attach to to spread the load. You guys are awesome!
Joel Aronson
On May 10, 2013, at 11:40 AM, David Risch wrote:
Again Ditto.
I have the same arrangement. It allows easy attachment/detachment o
Dwight,
For local conditions you are mostly good. In fact I just snap shackle my boom
line to rail and adjust from boom when bopping around in relatively benign
conditions.
Its when you are offshore, or in heavy local conditions, when waves are piling
up and the boom can be stuffed into a wa
Really, David, Dacron is so 20th century.
On Fri, May 10, 2013 at 11:39 AM, David Risch wrote:
> Again Ditto.
>
> I have the same arrangement. It allows easy attachment/detachment on the
> boat in a safe position in lieu of trying to secure at end of boom or at
> the bow. Mine also adjusts f
I never thought of running the preventer all the way to the bow. On my 35
MKII which has a high aspect ratio main sail on a 12'3" boom I simply attach
the preventer (my boom vang mostly) to the toe rail and tension with a
mechanical advantage of 4. C&C toe rails are strong enough for jib leads so
Again Ditto.
I have the same arrangement. It allows easy attachment/detachment on the boat
in a safe position in lieu of trying to secure at end of boom or at the bow.
Mine also adjusts from boom.
Although I have low tech dacron, not the fancy smancy Dyneema...
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(4
One thing I've seen on boats that run a lot or have high, long booms, is a
permanently rigged piece of Dynema attached at the end of the boom and run
forward to the a snap-shackle at the gooseneck. That way it's easy to rig a
preventer to the bow when the sheets are already eased; just release the
I ran my preventer from a bail on the (mid) boom forward to a snatch block on
the rail and then back to a cleat on the cabin top - near the side. Some boats
I've been on just use a detachable boom vang which can be released from the
base of the mast and taken to the rail, but I figured you want
I think when the 30-1 was designed, they used a club made of a rock and a
stick.
Maybe some had roller reefing, I don't know.
My 1980 version had two reef points (I assume factory). There are two
attachment rings bolted to the port side of the boom and two cheek blocks on
the starboard. T
Joel,
I think the "too simple" part of your plan is the attachment to the
boom. The sail is attached at the ends (functionally, even if it's got a
bolt rope on the foot), so you would be bending the boom around that
little dyneema loop. Probably breaking the boom.
Your mid-boom sheeting gets awa
Ditto what Andy said...
And when in ocean I run two preventers - port and starboard to the bow and back
to cockpit winches. All lines, blocks are of stout sizing. Loads can be
enormous.
That way in sloppy conditions you have a "controlled " jibe.
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (c
Right, Dwight. And it's not like our booms are made of balsa wood either!
:)
On Fri, May 10, 2013 at 10:39 AM, dwight veinot <
dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> wrote:
> ** ** ** ** ** ** **
>
> Andrew
>
> ** **
>
> I agree big forces at play but if you keep the preventer tensioned the
> forces
Andrew
I agree big forces at play but if you keep the preventer tensioned the
forces act through very little distance (basically movement of the sail from
one side to the other, sort of like heaving to with the jib.different if the
preventer is slack and experiences a sudden shock load
Dwig
Anchovy (hull#1) has a roller boom. I put in two line slab reefing for both
reefs led back to the cockpit. This arrangement works very well but I'm
switching out the double braid I originally used with dyneema or spectra to cut
down on the effort required to overcome friction.
Rick Bushie
s/v
The easiest thing is to buy an old rope vang at a nautical yard sale. For my
38. mine is a Garhauer vang using 3/8 line that was originally on my 25.
Attach the upper shackle to the bale for your mainsheet block, and snap the
lower shackle to the toerail near the shrouds. Since you keep it taught w
Personally, I like to have one as close to the end of the boom as
possible--all the way from the end to the bow, if I'm running. Think about
the forces on the boom when the preventer stops an accidental gybe; they
are not straight down, which is how the boom is strongest. The forces are
more from t
I put a bail on the end of my boom, so the preventer can be snapped on
from the cockpit. It runs to a block forward and back to the cockpit.
I'll wrap it around a cleat, but normally don't actually cleat it down
because I want it to slip. If the boat rolls far enough for the boom to
hit the
I just move the rope vang over to the toe rail on my little boat, but there is
a real simple method that I have seen used on
larger boats that works well. It consists of a block attached as close as is
practicable to the bow, and a line with a clip on the
end led from the attachment point on the
We run a line that clips on to our vang fitting on the boom to a snatch
block on the rail and then back to winch. This allows for a quick release
when we gybe.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent:
The manual for the st 4000 is on that site as well
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: May 10, 2013 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List
This helps a great deal.
It always helps to have a manule. However my control head dont look
like this one?
On 5/10/13, dwight veinot wrote:
> Curtis
>
> Check here for the manual you need:
>
> http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=1836
>
> or see page 83 in the st 4000+ manual
>
> Dwight Veino
Curtis
Check here for the manual you need:
http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=1836
or see page 83 in the st 4000+ manual
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
-Original Message-
From: CnC-Li
The doctor who spoke at the Safety at Sea seminar said the #1 thing you can
do to prevent injury is to rig a gybe preventer. My mainsheet sheets
mid-boom. I know you need a rope with stretch to absorb shock.
I was thinking of making a preventer as follows:
Dyneema loop around the boom just aft o
Suggest reading the manual to get best use of the unit. If you do not have a
manual see
http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=5694
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-05-10, at 8:05, Curtis wrote:
Can I dile in the fluxgate compass usint the control head for the st4000?
Or what is the the 3
Sorry, that would be clockwise turning...not quite awake yet
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: May 10, 2013 8:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject
Rick,
I think you have the picture. Touche's masthead main halyard sheave and sheave
box is the narrow V-sheave style. Touche', like many vintage C&C's had an all
wire main halyard and the wire winch with drum brake on the deck. When I
bought the boat I switched to a wire/rope halyard . I r
Thanks will clean the wires and hook them back up. Do you know where I
can get the proceedures on how to do the circle thing?
On 5/10/13, dwight veinot wrote:
> Curtis
>
> I believe what you are describing as "dial in" is called a deviation check
> on the fluxgate compass. You need to do very sl
What is factory reefing arrangement C&C 30MK 1?
What and how do you put in and take out the reefing on your boat? I
have no reefing system on this boat and I need one. I'm trying to put
one in that I can do while sailing alone.
--
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it
Curtis
I believe what you are describing as "dial in" is called a deviation check
on the fluxgate compass. You need to do very slow circles (counter
clockwise works for me) and if you go too fast that will be displayed and
you will have to start again. Usually after about 1 complete circle you
s
Can I dile in the fluxgate compass usint the control head for the st4000?
Or what is the the 3 circle procedure for this process? It is the
first time I have tried to use the auto helm st4000. When I put it on
auto, it holds the course just fine its just reading like 209 degrees
when the boat is ti
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