I did an unintended (stupid, careless) gybe in 20+ knots once, and the wind did cause significant damage to my traveller car. Broke it into 2 pieces in fact. It was made out of bronze and the thing that impressed me was that the bronze stretched before it broke, like a piece of toffee. Given the way stainless can fracture without warning, I prefer bronze fittings having seen that.
Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of David Risch Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 11:51 AM To: CNC CNC Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer Dwight, For local conditions you are mostly good. In fact I just snap shackle my boom line to rail and adjust from boom when bopping around in relatively benign conditions. Its when you are offshore, or in heavy local conditions, when waves are piling up and the boom can be stuffed into a wave (loading up mid-boom sheeting and breaking boom/gear etc.) or an uncontrollable jibe sets up loads that would tax the "to rail" set-up. The angles are too acute versus going to the bow. Its never the dang wind that causes problems...its those pesky waves. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 12:45:53 -0300 Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer I never thought of running the preventer all the way to the bow. On my 35 MKII which has a high aspect ratio main sail on a 12’3” boom I simply attach the preventer (my boom vang mostly) to the toe rail and tension with a mechanical advantage of 4. C&C toe rails are strong enough for jib leads so I figured they would be strong enough for the preventer. I have not sailed the boat in winds above 30-35 true but maybe under heavier conditions I would want a different set up, but actually nowadays for my sailing pleasure any winds above 25 kts true the main sail is packed and covered. Never once did I feel boom integrity or any other attachment was at intolerable risk. Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton Sent: May 10, 2013 12:33 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer One thing I've seen on boats that run a lot or have high, long booms, is a permanently rigged piece of Dynema attached at the end of the boom and run forward to the a snap-shackle at the gooseneck. That way it's easy to rig a preventer to the bow when the sheets are already eased; just release the line from the end of the boom and snap it to the preventer from the bow. If running to the bow, I will usually just run the preventer through the mooring line fairlead...with appropriate chafe protection if it's going to be rigged for more than a few hours. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine On Fri, May 10, 2013 at 11:16 AM, David Risch <davidrisc...@msn.com> wrote: Ditto what Andy said... And when in ocean I run two preventers - port and starboard to the bow and back to cockpit winches. All lines, blocks are of stout sizing. Loads can be enormous. That way in sloppy conditions you have a "controlled " jibe. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 10:16:35 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer Personally, I like to have one as close to the end of the boom as possible--all the way from the end to the bow, if I'm running. Think about the forces on the boom when the preventer stops an accidental gybe; they are not straight down, which is how the boom is strongest. The forces are more from the side (because the preventer is led forward to hold the boom in one place), which is the weakest part of the boom. Another thing to consider is that if at all possible, you should lead your preventer inside your lifelines so you don't wipe out or bend a couple of stanchions if you gybe. All that being said, it's kind of difficult to find a place near the end of the boom if you don't have a loose-footed main so the preventer will probably be attached at the mainsheet bail. I use a preventer pretty much all he time my sheets are eased, even in light stuff, a powerboat wake can cause the boom to swing into the back of a head. I wouldn't go with anything too stretchy; Dacron is fine. I usually use a single line from the boom to a block on the rail and back to a winch, so it's easy to adjust when I trim the sails. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine On Fri, May 10, 2013 at 8:56 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote: The doctor who spoke at the Safety at Sea seminar said the #1 thing you can do to prevent injury is to rig a gybe preventer. My mainsheet sheets mid-boom. I know you need a rope with stretch to absorb shock. I was thinking of making a preventer as follows: Dyneema loop around the boom just aft of the mainsheet blocks. 3 strand nylon with snap shackles to attach to the loop and toe rail. Is that too simple? Should it run through a block to a cleat or clutch? -- Joel 35/3 Annapolis 301 541 8551 _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this message. 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