Stus-List New Lister - Need Help Identifying Water System Fitting Type - C&C 36 1981

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Newbie here. Bought my first keelboat in June of this year, a 1981 C&C 36'
with a centerboard. These boats are highly regarded in this area and
personally, I absolutely love mine. Been racing other-people's-boats and
bareboat cruising  in Tampa Bay and the Caribbean for decades. I am a
member of the Davis Island Yacht Club. I am an electrical engineer with
specialty in automation and controls and I work with a Florida electric
cooperative utility. Joined the database and this list just a few weeks ago.

Looking for a source of a replacement parts for the pressurized water
system tubing & fittings. One of compression nuts is cracked. The elbow
fitting on the vent line shown in the photo is the type in question
although the broken nut is elsewhere. I also wonder if the ferrule and
back-up ring can be removed and replaced, or if it must be cut off and
replaced with a new one.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5A2zIupq2XBbHhyLWRRcGhXSXRpeG9oVlVlY0FTRjhndEdj

The line size is 1/2" O.D. X 3/8" I.D. and the tubing is made of an unknown
type of hard gray plastic. It doesn't appear to have any markings.

Any help is appreciated.

 --
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C&C 36' - #244
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Cell/text 813-748-4888
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Re: Stus-List New Lister - Need Help Identifying Water System Fitting Type - C&C 36 1981

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

A few simple words, Qest/Zurn/Flair-It, and now I'm off in the right
direction! Thanks for sharing your experiences and recommendations.

 --
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36' - #244
Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Cell/text 813-748-4888 <(813)%20748-4888>

On Mon, Dec 11, 2017 at 4:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Qest was made by Zurn out of polybutylene plastic.  The fittings have some
> great advantages including the ability to assemble/disassemble without
> tools and freeze resistance.  The problem is that chlorine has the effect
> of degrading the plastic and making it brittle.  You'll probably notice
> that the areas in contact with the water are white.  The plastic wasn't
> made that way is was bleached.  There was a class action law suit against
> Zurn.  Zurn is now the current maker of PEX which IIRC is made from HDPE
> and is not compatible with Qest in any way.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 11, 2017, 3:59 PM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Newbie here. Bought my first keelboat in June of this year, a 1981 C&C
>> 36' with a centerboard. These boats are highly regarded in this area and
>> personally, I absolutely love mine. Been racing other-people's-boats and
>> bareboat cruising  in Tampa Bay and the Caribbean for decades. I am a
>> member of the Davis Island Yacht Club. I am an electrical engineer with
>> specialty in automation and controls and I work with a Florida electric
>> cooperative utility. Joined the database and this list just a few weeks ago.
>>
>> Looking for a source of a replacement parts for the pressurized water
>> system tubing & fittings. One of compression nuts is cracked. The elbow
>> fitting on the vent line shown in the photo is the type in question
>> although the broken nut is elsewhere. I also wonder if the ferrule and
>> back-up ring can be removed and replaced, or if it must be cut off and
>> replaced with a new one.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5A2zIupq2XBbHhyLWRRcGhXSXRpe
>> G9oVlVlY0FTRjhndEdj
>>
>> The line size is 1/2" O.D. X 3/8" I.D. and the tubing is made of an
>> unknown type of hard gray plastic. It doesn't appear to have any markings.
>>
>> Any help is appreciated.
>>
>>  --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> Chamamé
>> C&C 36' - #244
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>> Cell/text 813-748-4888 <(813)%20748-4888>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List Networking Some Old Instruments & AIS Receiver

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

I would like to get AIS info from my Raymarine AIS350 receiver and my
SeaTalk Wind, Depth, and Log into my Garmin GMAP541. It seems simple enough
with a SeaTalk to SeaTalkNG converter.

Here's a drawing of how I think it might work:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=18Ak4iJhpxNoIvma0lOSFtoot5pj-Pb82

Power for the ST-STNG converter comes from the SPX-5 Course Computer.

What are the chances this could work?

 --
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C&C 36' - #244
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Cell/text 813-748-4888 <(813)%20748-4888>
___

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Re: Stus-List Networking Some Old Instruments & AIS Receiver

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Fred,

Thanks for your thoughtful response! I appreciate real-world experience
over reading between the lines of technical literature any day.

The Raymarine literature reads "
*Power must be supplied by either the SeaTalk network OR the SeaTalkng bus;
it must not be powered from both sides. If present, the preferred power
supply method is via a connected autopilot*."

To me this means the source of DC power can be the autopilot, but now I
understand it must be fed through a standard power tee or a converter port.
Please let me know if that's not right.

In any case, I'll plan to extend the SeaTalkNG buss using standard NMEA
2000 hardware for future non-proprietary compatibility and will use either
a power tee or a port on the converter to power the buss.

Your input is appreciated, I will be in touch for a quote once the details
of the BOM are finalized.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 <(813)%20748-4888> cel/text

On Sat, Dec 16, 2017 at 2:46 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim — you can’t power a SeaTalkNG bus through the SeaTalk1 connection on
> the converter; you’ll need to add a short SeaTalkNG backbone cable to a
> “T”, then use the power (red) cable that comes with the converter kit to
> get 12 volts onto the SeaTalkNG bus.  Then you should get data from the
> instruments added to the bus with the AIS data.  It looks from the GPSMAP
> 400/500 Installation Instructions like the MF will accept PGNs (data
> sentences) for water speed and depth, and wind.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Dec 15, 2017, at 6:26 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I would like to get AIS info from my Raymarine AIS350 receiver and my
> SeaTalk Wind, Depth, and Log into my Garmin GMAP541. It seems simple enough
> with a SeaTalk to SeaTalkNG converter.
>
> Here's a drawing of how I think it might work:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=18Ak4iJhpxNoIvma0lOSFtoot5pj-Pb82
>
> Power for the ST-STNG converter comes from the SPX-5 Course Computer.
>
> What are the chances this could work?
>
>  --
> Tim Rutherford
> Chamamé
> C&C 36' - #244
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> Cell/text 813-748-4888 <(813)%20748-4888>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Both 19 gallon tanks, port and starboard, are leaking in multiple
locations. They are vee-bottom four sided tanks with recesses in the top
where stiffeners under the cover plate fit. I tried plastic welding but the
results were questionable in terms of reliability.

The manufacturer, Kracor, says new ones can be made to order in 3-4 weeks
if I contact a local boat yard to place the order. This sounds expensive
and cumbersome.

What are my other options? Is it easy to contact a local tank company and
have a tank copied at a competitive cost and reasonable lead-time?

--
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C&C 36' - #244
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text
___

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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

I've asked my local boat yard for a quote and will let you know when I hear
back from them. The tank on my boat is a Kracor model 1-5087, 19 gallons,
as indicated on the label on one of the tanks. Both appear to be identical.
The label on the second tank is unreadable.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 11:48 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Same problem on my 36. Many leaking cracks. No reason to believe that
> welding them would not just result in new ones. Probably will try it
> anyway, but no confidence long term. Low molecular weight polyethylene.
> Space is narrow, long, and triangular.
> Not found a bladder tank that would be a good fit. Seems to me that an
> over large tank folded into the space would be a recipe for failure due to
> abrasion.
> Did Kracor give any guidance on their price?
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36
> Merritt Island, Fl
>
>  Tim Rutherford via CnC-List  wrote:
> Both 19 gallon tanks, port and starboard, are leaking in multiple
> locations. They are vee-bottom four sided tanks with recesses in the top
> where stiffeners under the cover plate fit. I tried plastic welding but the
> results were questionable in terms of reliability.
>
> The manufacturer, Kracor, says new ones can be made to order in 3-4 weeks
> if I contact a local boat yard to place the order. This sounds expensive
> and cumbersome.
>
> What are my other options? Is it easy to contact a local tank company and
> have a tank copied at a competitive cost and reasonable lead-time?
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> Chamamé
> C&C 36' - #244
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Just to report back on this thread, what follows is my twisted 11-week path
to resolution of a crack in one of my water tanks plus hairline cracks
around the inspection ports, and difficulty getting a good seal on the
Quest fittings on both tanks:

Kracor initially said that they could quote replacement roto-molded tanks,
but when it came down to it, they have been acquired by Yamaha and will now
only quote large quantity orders.

South Shore Yachts was able to quote new tanks from a third party but at
over $1000 each, plus shipping to Florida, seemed cost prohibitive.

Ultimately, I used a Florida tank manufacturer & repair facility, Seelye
Inc., in Ocoee, FL to repair the crack in the tank. The cost to weld an
8-inch crack was $65. They tested it to be leak free but there is no
warranty.

On reassembly, I had trouble getting a seal around the suction fittings,
which are Qest elbows, but found that if I first connected the tubing to
the fitting and then screwed it in, I could get another couple of turns on
the fitting. Both tanks are essentially leak-free except for a little
weeping around the inspection ports if overfilled. I plan to avoid
overfilling.

While at it I also replaced the 4" o-rings on the tank ports (AS568-240),
and on the old-style Jabsco suction strainers (AS568-131) and installed a
Teflon back-up ring (AS568-007) under the strainer cover screw heads.

Now on to the next adventure...

--
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C&C 36' - #244

On Sat, Jan 13, 2018 at 8:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think using G-Flex would be a much better bet than using 105/205. That's
> what WEST recommends.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 11 January 2018 at 13:40, Mike Casey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> *Re: fixing water tanks:*
>>
>> You do not need the TAP stuff, just use West System epoxy. You have to
>> pre-heat with the torch as he says. I used some glass cloth and it has
>> worked fine. You have nothing to lose.
>>
>> Mike Casey
>> Halifax, Nova Scotia
>> C&C 30 1980
>>
>>
>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>>  Virus-free.
>> www.avg.com
>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>> <#m_1706993037204421317_m_-4351607325992606576_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>>
>> <#m_1706993037204421317_m_-4351607325992606576_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> <#m_1706993037204421317_m_-4351607325992606576_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>> <#m_1706993037204421317_m_-4351607325992606576_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>> On Thu, Jan 11, 2018 at 2:18 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> <#m_1706993037204421317_m_-4351607325992606576_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>>
>>> Just stumbled on this saved video on repairing polyethylene, not sure
>>> this was the string talking about it or not . ..
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *   https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=h-9yhanz5DE
>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=h-9yhanz5DE>
>>> Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie, PA[image: animated_favicon1]   From: CnC-List
>>> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On
>>> Behalf Of Tim Rutherford via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2018
>>> 9:04 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Cc: Tim
>>> Rutherford Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank
>>> Replacement   Hi Steve,   I've asked my local boat yard for a quote and
>>> will let you know when I hear back from them. The tank on my boat is a
>>> Kracor model 1-5087, 19 gallons, as indicated on the label on one of the
>>> tanks. Both appear to be identical. The label on the second tank is
>>> unreadable. -- Tim Rutherford tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>>  813 748 4888 <(813)%20748-4888> cel/text
>>> On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 11:48 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List
>>> > wrote: Same problem on my
>>> 36. Many leaking cracks. No reason to believe that welding them would not
>>> just result in new ones. Probably will try it anyway, but no confidence
&g

Stus-List Nav Panel Refurb - C&C 36-1

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Has anybody rebuilt a nav panel on a C&C 36 or similar? Mine is rotted at
the bottom and the breakers are all corroded. The leak is fixed and I
picked up a very nice used breaker panel from a lister here (thanks Neil).

I want to repair & replace the rotted teak and replace the whole cutout
panel with one on piano hinges, along with the breaker panel. There's a
nice project done on a Beneteau at sailbitsdotcom but some C&C specific
tribal knowledge would be great I'm sure.

Also have components to network the ST60 stuff, Garmin chartplotter, an AIS
receiver, and a Yacht Devices Wi-Fi bridge onto an NMEA2000 buss - so all
of that should probably happen at the same time.


--
Tim Rutherford
Chamame'
C&C 36-1 CB #244
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 <(813)%20748-4888> cel/text
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Re: Stus-List C&C 36 Head Port Light Replacement

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Beckson. Probably a 410. The name should be embossed on the frame and
dimensions will identify the model. http://www.beckson.com/ports.html

--
Tim Rutherford
Chamamé
C&C 36' - #244
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text


On Tue, Mar 27, 2018 at 9:43 PM, Matt Knighton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Needing to replace the port light in the head of my '79 C&C 36. Does
> anyone have experience with this/found a suitable replacement? Looking at
> Lewmar but would need to retrofit. Not sure what brand the OEM part was.
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List 36' Nav Panel Disassembly

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Looking for advice on how to take apart the nav panel on my C&C 36'.

I want to pull some wires through and take measurements for a breaker panel
upgrade and other improvements, but want to put it back together
temporarily so I can still sail in themeantime.

If I look in the breaker panel opening it looks like there are rails inside
along the perimeter but not sure about access to unscrew it. Maybe that's
the only access!?

Picture link:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12PfWgijXJFc-mZU7djzh8b03qLwNiczc

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text
___

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Re: Stus-List 36' Nav Panel Disassembly

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Actually looking to remove the entire panel that the electronics are
mounted on, not just the breaker panel. Anybody done that on a 36'?

I plan to upgrade the breaker panel and install a main panel with hinged
access. For now though I just want to get some take-off measurements so I
can fab a replacement in the shop.

I'm prepared for surprises, there was a leak for a long time so there's a
lot of corrosion and delaminated wood in there, probably more.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Cell/text 813-748-4888


On Sat, May 5, 2018, 10:35 Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looks like a slightly updated version of the fuse panel on my old 34.  I
> suspect that those screws are the only thing holding panels in.  If it’s
> like the 34, you’ll also find a deck scupper and drain hose behind the
> panel (which was unbelievable to me).
>
> *From:* Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, May 04, 2018 4:42 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tim Rutherford 
> *Subject:* Stus-List 36' Nav Panel Disassembly
>
> Looking for advice on how to take apart the nav panel on my C&C 36'.
>
> I want to pull some wires through and take measurements for a breaker
> panel upgrade and other improvements, but want to put it back together
> temporarily so I can still sail in themeantime.
>
> If I look in the breaker panel opening it looks like there are rails
> inside along the perimeter but not sure about access to unscrew it. Maybe
> that's the only access!?
>
> Picture link:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12PfWgijXJFc-mZU7djzh8b03qLwNiczc
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
> --
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Stus-List 36' C&C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Looking for documentation of the pendant dimensions so that I have a
replacement fabricated. No issues yet, but I understand they are easier to
replace *before* they fail. I have the manuals but there are no drawings
or data tables with mention of the details on the centerboard model.

Previous owner supplied contact info for a shop that made the previous
Technora replacement but he couldn't locate any records of the transaction.

Any help is appreciated.

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36' Chamame'
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text
___

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Re: Stus-List 36' C&C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie,

Thanks for the quick reply and the info although we might not be talking
apples and apples here.

The previous owner said it's *easier* to change before it fails rather than
describing the dire situation you encountered. A diver in our club has done
it many times here on C&C's of various lengths, probably older models.

He also described having to use the winches to run a line under the keel
once to raise it when it failed, so he could get back in the slip and
didn't mention a concern for damage. Maybe just lucky. I think if it let
loose and that 800 pound steel blade fell through it's full arc to the stop
I would have a real concern for damage to the trunk.

Hopefully someone has some info. It seems the centerboard versions weren't
well documented.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 10:34 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1995 36XL with a centerboard so YMMV. My 1st pennant (wire)
> failed after about 15 years and destroyed the board when it let go. Since
> then, I replace it about every 5 years and I have stayed with wire on the
> yard's recommendation although I have considered using high tech line.
>
> On my boat, the pennant pretty much has to be replaced with the boat on
> the hard so a new one is made and sized properly with the boat out of the
> water. Carrying a spare is not useful since if it lets go, replacing it is
> basically impossible in the water. Plus if it lets go in the up position
> (where else!), replacing the pennant will be a minor problem compared to
> getting the board (or what's left of it!) back up so you can get into a
> shallow water slip.
>
> FWIW
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Tim Rutherford 
> Sent: Tue, Jun 12, 2018 5:01 pm
> Subject: Stus-List 36' C&C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant
> Dimensions
>
> Looking for documentation of the pendant dimensions so that I have a
> replacement fabricated. No issues yet, but I understand they are easier to
> replace *before* they fail. I have the manuals but there are no drawings
> or data tables with mention of the details on the centerboard model.
>
> Previous owner supplied contact info for a shop that made the previous
> Technora replacement but he couldn't locate any records of the transaction.
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> C&C 36' Chamame'
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Brad,

Here are photos from my shunt installed on the forward bulkhead as you
mentioned as well as the general arrangement in the compartment.

Question: Does your setup have three batteries and if so what are their
sizes and locations? I would like to add a third battery and I'm not sure
where to put it.

​
 20171001_141328.jpg

​​
 20171001_141144.jpg

​​
 20171001_141139.jpg

​​
 20171001_141613.jpg

​

--
Tim Rutherford
'81 C&C 36' KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 4:26 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Slightly off-topic but battery monitor related, after sailing off Croatia
> last summer I decided to buy one of these
> 
> No support in the U.S. but I’m always up for something new.  I replaced my
> Link 20 with this unit. It has a 24-hour barograph, tank monitor, ambient
> temperature in addition to monitoring 2 battery banks. It has bluetooth so
> I can monitor with it’s app on my iPhone.
>
> Looks trick if nothing else. ;-)
>
> And FWIW, the shunt is placed behind the distribution panel.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Jun 11, 2018, at 2:00 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> On my 34, a couple years ago I rewired my batteries, starter, alternator,
> installed a Victron BMV-702s, blue sea switch and ACR, plus some bars and
> breakers.
>
> I wanted a location that was near to the batteries, engine room, and fuse
> panel.  The batteries were under the quarter birth so I installed the
> shunt, ACR, buses, breakers all on the plywood board that separated the
> battery compartment from other storage under the quarter berth.  I took
> that board home and worked on it there, naming it my "shunt board."  It
> had things mounted on both sides of it and has worked out really well.
>
> No problems since installing it. I got the Bluetooth dongle for the
> Victron and can check the battery stats from the cockpit easily.
> Eventually, I surface mounted the Victron display just under the VHF beside
> the fuse panel above the nav table.
>
> This page is very useful and I utilized its previous version (on pbase)
> for my install:
>
> https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-battery-monitor/
>
> Cheers,
>   Jeremy
>   '78 C&C 34, #41
>   Vancouver Island, BC
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Brad Crawford 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2018 15:27:27 -0700
> Subject: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location
> I recently purchased a Victron battery monitor and am wondering where
> others, particularly 36' owners, have mounted their battery monitor shunts,
> if they have one?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Brad Crawford
> "Dora Pearl"
> C&C 36
> Seattle
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 36' C&C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Thanks for thinking of that Ken.

I remember Edd's post and read it with interest but my setup is completely
different. My centerboard blade (from memory) is only about 9 inches wide
and extends about 3 feet down from the trunk. There's a picture of it in
this cut sheet.
​
 36b3p03 (cropped).jpg
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/11mde7_G5F2A35piMtjzEzQSM_JFmG6m8/view?usp=drive_web>
​
I'm starting to think I'll maybe ask a rigger to make a thimble onto a long
piece of Dyneema that I can then pull in, cut to length, and then make a
second thimble on topside for connection to the blocks. It would be great
if I know the length though...

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36' Chamame'
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 11:03 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> Edd Schillay sent this out to the list some time ago.  It is for the C&C
> 37/40 but may be similar: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html
> (scroll down some)
>
> or pdf here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKR0lrdU9WUHREVGs/
> view
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 at 11:09, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Charlie,
>>
>> Thanks for the quick reply and the info although we might not be talking
>> apples and apples here.
>>
>> The previous owner said it's *easier* to change before it fails rather
>> than describing the dire situation you encountered. A diver in our club has
>> done it many times here on C&C's of various lengths, probably older models.
>>
>> He also described having to use the winches to run a line under the keel
>> once to raise it when it failed, so he could get back in the slip and
>> didn't mention a concern for damage. Maybe just lucky. I think if it let
>> loose and that 800 pound steel blade fell through it's full arc to the stop
>> I would have a real concern for damage to the trunk.
>>
>> Hopefully someone has some info. It seems the centerboard versions
>> weren't well documented.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 10:34 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a 1995 36XL with a centerboard so YMMV. My 1st pennant (wire)
>>> failed after about 15 years and destroyed the board when it let go. Since
>>> then, I replace it about every 5 years and I have stayed with wire on the
>>> yard's recommendation although I have considered using high tech line.
>>>
>>> On my boat, the pennant pretty much has to be replaced with the boat on
>>> the hard so a new one is made and sized properly with the boat out of the
>>> water. Carrying a spare is not useful since if it lets go, replacing it is
>>> basically impossible in the water. Plus if it lets go in the up position
>>> (where else!), replacing the pennant will be a minor problem compared to
>>> getting the board (or what's left of it!) back up so you can get into a
>>> shallow water slip.
>>>
>>> FWIW
>>>
>>> Charlie Nelson
>>> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>> Water Phantom
>>>
>>> cenel...@aol.com
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
>>> To: cnc-list 
>>> Cc: Tim Rutherford 
>>> Sent: Tue, Jun 12, 2018 5:01 pm
>>> Subject: Stus-List 36' C&C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant
>>> Dimensions
>>>
>>> Looking for documentation of the pendant dimensions so that I have a
>>> replacement fabricated. No issues yet, but I understand they are easier to
>>> replace *before* they fail. I have the manuals but there are no drawings
>>> or data tables with mention of the details on the centerboard model.
>>>
>>> Previous owner supplied contact info for a shop that made the previous
>>> Technora replacement but he couldn't locate any records of the transaction.
>>>
>>> Any help is appreciated.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Rutherford
>>> C&C 36' Chamame'
>>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
>>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>> 

Re: Stus-List 36' C&C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

Good idea - hadn't though about doing take-off measurements on the drawing.
I'll round up and add 20% and it should be plenty. I already talked with
the diver and he remembers it being easy.

I appreciate all the help in avoiding a headache (the woes you mentioned).
I'm sure there are others are on the horizon, I'll avoid this one if I can.



--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 11:46 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim,
>
> Yes — Your board setup is very different than the 34+ or 37+ series. A
> competant diver should have no problem rigging a new one for you. And
> YES(!!!), do it before it breaks so you can use the existing cable to snake
> the new one through the system. A break, especially inside the cabin or
> under the floor, will be a bitch to replace.
>
> As for length, since you have the plan image you shared and since you know
> the LOA of the boat, it should be pretty easy with a ruler to extrapolate
> the length of the cabling.
>
> … Glad to see my centerboard woes of a few years ago is the stuff of
> legend . . .
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 13, 2018, at 11:35 AM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks for thinking of that Ken.
>
> I remember Edd's post and read it with interest but my setup is completely
> different. My centerboard blade (from memory) is only about 9 inches wide
> and extends about 3 feet down from the trunk. There's a picture of it in
> this cut sheet.
> ​
>  36b3p03 (cropped).jpg
> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/11mde7_G5F2A35piMtjzEzQSM_JFmG6m8/view?usp=drive_web>
> ​
> I'm starting to think I'll maybe ask a rigger to make a thimble onto a
> long piece of Dyneema that I can then pull in, cut to length, and then make
> a second thimble on topside for connection to the blocks. It would be great
> if I know the length though...
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> C&C 36' Chamame'
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
> On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 11:03 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>
>> Edd Schillay sent this out to the list some time ago.  It is for the C&C
>> 37/40 but may be similar: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html
>> (scroll down some)
>>
>> or pdf here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKR0lrdU9WU
>> HREVGs/view
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>> On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 at 11:09, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Charlie,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the quick reply and the info although we might not be talking
>>> apples and apples here.
>>>
>>> The previous owner said it's *easier* to change before it fails rather
>>> than describing the dire situation you encountered. A diver in our club has
>>> done it many times here on C&C's of various lengths, probably older models.
>>>
>>> He also described having to use the winches to run a line under the keel
>>> once to raise it when it failed, so he could get back in the slip and
>>> didn't mention a concern for damage. Maybe just lucky. I think if it let
>>> loose and that 800 pound steel blade fell through it's full arc to the stop
>>> I would have a real concern for damage to the trunk.
>>>
>>> Hopefully someone has some info. It seems the centerboard versions
>>> weren't well documented.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Rutherford
>>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 10:34 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have a 1995 36XL with a centerboard so YMMV. My 1st pennant (wire)
>>>> failed after about 15 years and destroyed the board when it let go. Since
>>>> then, I replace it about every 5 years and I have stayed with wire on the
>>>> yard's recommendation although I have considered using high tech line.
>>>>
>>>> On my boat, the pennant pretty much has to be replaced with the boat on
>>>> the hard so a new one is made and sized properly with the boat out of the
>>>> water. Carrying a spare is not useful since if it lets go, replacing it is
>>>> basically impossibl

Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

You're spot-on with your recommendations on the electrical work. Really
appreciate the links to bona-fide vendors and equipment. That Blue-Sea fuse
holder is really nice!

Sadly, the stuff at the top of my current list falls into the category of
impending failure. Ha! Just finished a complete pedestal rebuild and engine
service. I'm keeping an eye on the electrical stuff for now, for signs of
the aforementioned impending doom, until it floats to the top of the list.
Also sad - the PO and I are both electrical engineers. I think there's a
saying about the plumber's pipes leaking or something...

When the time comes for the 12VDC power work it will be much more robust.
Comments appreciated.

--
Tim Rutherford
'81 C&C 36' KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 1:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Tim,
>
> You may have already identified these observations.  If so disregard.  If
> not, here are a few things to add to what I'm sure is the ever growing list
> of repairs which all boats and owners have.
>
> - The typical post style battery cables which you have appear to be
> automotive grade.  The insulation that is pulling back around the cast lead
> terminal is allowing the un-tinned copper strands to be exposed and
> corrode.  You could replace them with exactly the same thing and simply add
> adhesive lined heat shrink to the junction.  Better would be to get proper
> marine wire with tinned copper strands.  Crimp on a tinned ring terminal
> and then heat shrink the junction.  A "proper" crimper is exorbitantly
> expensive so if you plan ahead you can get the cables made by an online
> store for a very good priceyou'll probably still have to add the heat
> shrink.  I've used the company in the link below.  My only complaint is
> that they don't provide any means for fractional lengths less than a foot.
> Other than that they have a very high quality product at a great price.
> http://www.bestboatwire.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly
>
> - Having threaded stud terminals is great.  You can tighten them
> appropriately and the lead won't corrode away.  I suggest that you move all
> of the connections to the studs not the posts.
>
> - IIRC to be in accordance with ABYC you'll need a fuse within 7" of the
> battery connection.  You may have it and it is just out of frame.  One
> thing that messes people up is that the starter circuit technically doesn't
> need a fuse.  But there's really not a good reason to not have one.  I
> really like the blue sea block fuses for this.  They make a double fuse bus
> which allows you to have a high amp (100 to 200 amp) circuit - for
> starting, and a lower amp (~50) circuit - for everything else.  I base the
> low amp off of my 60amp charger and use a 75 amp fuse.  If you have an
> inverter you may need to scale it up appropriately.  You can also use these
> blocks to fuse individual busses throughout the boat.
> https://baymarinesupply.com/blue-sea-2151-dual-mrbf-fuse-block.html
>
> - The terminals and their crimps on the shunt connections could use an
> upgrade.  The crimp is really not appropriate.  It appears to have been
> made by a hammer crimper and specifically the dent can break individual
> conductor strands.  A proper crimper will compress the barrel of the
> terminal circumferentially and equally.  I can't justify the cost of a
> proper crimper but if you need a DYI solution that is a better alternative
> check the link below.  It is still a hammer crimper but it creates no dent
> and the anvil is slightly wedge shaped so you get more even and
> circumferential crimp.  You'll still want to use boat wire with tinned
> copper strands and then apply adhesive lined heat shrink.
> http://a.co/bwaM9nL
>
> - You can educate yourself on "proper terminations" here.
> https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/
>
> I'll certainly recognize the author's highest level of quality and
> standards.  I also accept a certain amount of responsibility and "risk" by
> not following his prescriptions exactly.  At least I'm knowledgeable of my
> downfalls.  Most notable is my use of the anvil crimper and flared starter
> lugs instead of the heavy walled power lugs.
>
> Maybe some of these observations will give you things to consider while
> modifying your existing system.
>
> All the best,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 13, 2018, 10:42 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Brad,
>>
>

Re: Stus-List C&C 36KCB centreboard pendant

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Len,

Good info, very much appreciated. Not sure the value of the build file
though, if there isn't any dimensional data.

I have reached out to Rob at South Shore and so some more info may be
forthcoming.

Thanks for your help.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 12:49 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim, I still have the manuals and build file for our 1981 36KCB, hull #
> 216 (Incision). I had a look and the pendant part # was 074616 but there
> are no dimensions or drawings other than winch location. Maybe call
> Southshore Yachts, they should know where to find it. Or Mars keels as a
> plan B. If you need the parts list for the centreboard keel, I have it in
> the old build file. Ours was in fresh water and never replaced.
>
> Len Mitchell
> *Crazy Legs*
> 1989 37+
> Midland On
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 36KCB centreboard pendant

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

That's a huge help. Thanks for the info. Sounds like you did a jam-up job
and she should give many years of trouble free service. Especially like the
UHMWP bearing idea.

I'll let you know if the 7-footer will work, and I appreciate the offer.

Regards,

--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36' #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 8:30 AM, Michael Brannon via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim,   I replaced my pendant along with the centerboard pin about 5 years
> ago.   The original fitting used on deck is no longer available from any
> source that I could find.   I used a 3/16”  aircraft eye with a 3/8” pin as
> a replacement a marine eye would work just as well.   You cannot feed the
> wire through the tube going to the centerboard if it has an eye pre-made.
> Once attached at the top and the correct length marked with a sharpie,  I
> fed the wire through the tube and made up the eye once it was out of the
> bottom and then cut off the excess.  You can either micro press it or use
> SS rope clamps.The pendant is made from 8” of  3/16” 7X7 SS wire.   Any
> rigger should be able to make this.
>
> If you replace the bow shackle that attaches the wire to the board make
> sure you use a shackle made of good stainless such as Wichard.  A cheap
> shackle will corrode within a few years, I’m speaking from experience.
>
> I have a spare wire made up but it is only 7’ in length.  If after you
> remove yours you find this would be long enough I would be happy to send it
> to you for the cost of shipping.
>
> When I had my centerboard off I took it home and suspended it from the
> forks on my tractor.   I sandblasted, treated the metal with OSPHO(SIC),
> and encapsulated it in epoxy, and then faired it.  I over drilled the hole
> for the pin and inserted a piece of UHMWP as a bearing  It works much
> better now.
>
> Regards and good luck,
>
> Mike
>
>
> Mikel Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> C&C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
>
> On Jun 13, 2018, at 9:12 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Len,
>
> Good info, very much appreciated. Not sure the value of the build file
> though, if there isn't any dimensional data.
>
> I have reached out to Rob at South Shore and so some more info may be
> forthcoming.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
> On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 12:49 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Tim, I still have the manuals and build file for our 1981 36KCB, hull #
>> 216 (Incision). I had a look and the pendant part # was 074616 but there
>> are no dimensions or drawings other than winch location. Maybe call
>> Southshore Yachts, they should know where to find it. Or Mars keels as a
>> plan B. If you need the parts list for the centreboard keel, I have it in
>> the old build file. Ours was in fresh water and never replaced.
>>
>> Len Mitchell
>> *Crazy Legs*
>> 1989 37+
>> Midland On
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 36KCB centreboard pendant

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Some kind of really good plastic. Like Delrin was in the '80s! LOL

Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene - Wikipedia
<https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwifuuKqo9bbAhVC3FMKHam1ChMQFggpMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FUltra-high-molecular-weight_polyethylene&usg=AOvVaw1Qp8W1hkjQisHO8ZSIsCuI>


--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 12:25 PM,  wrote:

> What is "UHMWP"? and where can I get one? Thanks
>
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane
> <https://maps.google.com/?q=2950+Breckenridge+Lane&entry=gmail&source=g>,
> Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Tim Rutherford 
> Sent: Fri, Jun 15, 2018 9:04 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 36KCB centreboard pendant
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> That's a huge help. Thanks for the info. Sounds like you did a jam-up job
> and she should give many years of trouble free service. Especially like the
> UHMWP bearing idea.
>
> I'll let you know if the 7-footer will work, and I appreciate the offer.
>
> Regards,
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> 1981 C&C 36' #244 Chamamé
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 8:30 AM, Michael Brannon via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Tim,   I replaced my pendant along with the centerboard pin about 5 years
> ago.   The original fitting used on deck is no longer available from any
> source that I could find.   I used a 3/16”  aircraft eye with a 3/8” pin as
> a replacement a marine eye would work just as well.   You cannot feed the
> wire through the tube going to the centerboard if it has an eye pre-made.
> Once attached at the top and the correct length marked with a sharpie,  I
> fed the wire through the tube and made up the eye once it was out of the
> bottom and then cut off the excess.  You can either micro press it or use
> SS rope clamps.The pendant is made from 8” of  3/16” 7X7 SS wire.   Any
> rigger should be able to make this.
>
> If you replace the bow shackle that attaches the wire to the board make
> sure you use a shackle made of good stainless such as Wichard.  A cheap
> shackle will corrode within a few years, I’m speaking from experience.
>
> I have a spare wire made up but it is only 7’ in length.  If after you
> remove yours you find this would be long enough I would be happy to send it
> to you for the cost of shipping.
>
> When I had my centerboard off I took it home and suspended it from the
> forks on my tractor.   I sandblasted, treated the metal with OSPHO(SIC),
> and encapsulated it in epoxy, and then faired it.  I over drilled the hole
> for the pin and inserted a piece of UHMWP as a bearing  It works much
> better now.
>
> Regards and good luck,
>
> Mike
>
>
> Mikel Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> C&C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
>
> On Jun 13, 2018, at 9:12 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Len,
>
> Good info, very much appreciated. Not sure the value of the build file
> though, if there isn't any dimensional data.
>
> I have reached out to Rob at South Shore and so some more info may be
> forthcoming.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
> On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 12:49 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Tim, I still have the manuals and build file for our 1981 36KCB, hull #
> 216 (Incision). I had a look and the pendant part # was 074616 but there
> are no dimensions or drawings other than winch location. Maybe call
> Southshore Yachts, they should know where to find it. Or Mars keels as a
> plan B. If you need the parts list for the centreboard keel, I have it in
> the old build file. Ours was in fresh water and never replaced.
>
> Len Mitchell
> *Crazy Legs*
> 1989 37+
> Midland On
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and e

Re: Stus-List El Faro

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Riveting. It certainly is a reminder of the absolute power of nature and
our vulnerability.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 9:40 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> kept me glued to my screen for 30 minutes when I should have been reading
> work emails lol - Captivating and sad. Numbs the senses..
>
> Dan
>
> On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 9:41 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Incredible story. Thanks for posting.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On May 27, 2018, at 5:50 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Not C&C related, but certainly maritime related - dramatic story about
>> the El Faro, a 1970s container ship that was lost at sea on October 1st,
>> 2015 in Hurricane Joaquin:
>> https://www.vanityfair.com/news/2018/04/inside-el-faro-the-
>> worst-us-maritime-disaster-in-decades
>>
>> Hope all you C&C'ers are well.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List ST4000+ Mechanical Problem

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

I had mine apart late last year and was successful in replacing the clutch
lever and clutch eccentric, getting it back together, and operational.
Symptoms were "catching" sound in the until and no positive "feel" for
whether it was engaged or disengaged. The wheel didn't hang up but a couple
dozen little black balls fell out and rolled across the deck, prompting
some thoroughly inappropriate comments from the crew. "You paid what for
that??!!"

The problem with mine centered around the clutch lever slipping on it's
shaft, thus it was impossible to reliably engage/disengage. New clutch
lever and eccentric cost about $50. Parts are stupid expensive , clearly
driven by what the market will bear and not related to manufacturing cost
or value IMO. The clutch adjustment is explained in the manual. Seems mine
is tight too even on the minimum setting. Perhaps the belts *shrink* over
time? In hindsight I probably should have changed the belt too. It seems to
drag on the drum even when disengaged.

The thing seems lightly built for the intended purpose and I don't relish
the thought of having to depend on it for any extended period of time
nonetheless, it came with her.

Biggest trouble I had was finding the contact info to order Raymarine parts
which is orderd...@raymarine.com; 603.324.7600. The repair manual is pretty
good, and is at the link below. Let me know if you need more info.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text
​
 4000-service_manual.pdf

​

On Mon, Jul 2, 2018 at 7:55 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone on the list taken the Wheel Pilot Actuator apart? On the way to
> the starting line last week, the steering was catching on something inside
> the Wheel Pilot Actuator,  I opted to not race for fear that the steering
> would lock up during the race.  Previous to this happening, the clutch
> lever would pop out occasionally.  Is there a clutch adjustment, that might
> solve both problems? According to the Raymarine Forum, this unit is no
> longer serviced by Raymarine.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

On my boat, Chamamé, she just received a complete overhaul of the Edson
#334 pedestal, #727 engine controls, #776 idler plate with cable
replacement in May. Like Bruce, I am sailing locally but plan venture into
the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean.

Bruce, your steps appear in order and the job is not difficult except for
limited access. Mine was out in about two hours but the shop work seemed to
take forever and reassembly took all of an afternoon. I seem to have to put
things together about three times before I get it exactly right for the
final assembly. Please don't hesitate to call me and talk it through.

My idler plate appeared in much better condition than Bruce's but upon
removal and closer inspection I found that a stainless grommet, that makes
the pivot point and attaches the wheel assembly to the plate, had cracked
about halfway around it's circumference. Left unchecked this likely would
have resulted in a ugly failure before the next inspection. Edson balked at
repairing the assembly, saying that they have never seen one returned in
serviceable condition. I sent a photo that showed that it was
otherwise fine condition and they said OK to return it for assessment.

I attribute it's life to an excellent sealing job at the deck, preventing
salt water from leaking onto the plate from above.

The assembly was returned to Edson for repair and they replaced the grommet
for a reasonable price. Although IMO the plate is an inferior design due to
it's vulnerability to corrosion, I felt that if properly installed and
sealed it would provide reliable service if inspected occasionally. I
coated it with a Corroseal, a product similar to Ospho, and used copious
amounts of plumber's putty to seal the pedestal at the deck joint. This
approach probably saved about $350 over the cost of replacing it with the
redesigned assembly.

The wire rope assemblies were fabricated locally in St. Petersburg, FL by
SSMR, Inc. who I can recommend without hesitation. The replacements were
exact duplicates of what was removed and the price was under $100.

Due to aforementioned references to loss of steering I also chose to
reroute all cables through the pedestal guard tubes to eliminate the
possibility of fouling the sprocket and chain. Two boats in our club
recently collided after steering failure, ending the season early for them
both, ​​so I was especially sensitive to that.

Hope this helps. Comments welcomed.

--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36 #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

​
 20180204_181613.jpg

​​
 20180204_181555.jpg

​​
 20180204_181619.jpg

​

On Thu, Jul 5, 2018 at 9:18 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do
> believe all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ron Ricci 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate
>
> Bruce,
>
> I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system
> several years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and
> the steering cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to
> last plate Edson had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.
>
> Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new
> ones as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think
> that it like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement.
>
> This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.
> Regards,
> *Ron*
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Whitmore via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
> *Subject:* Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to
> stern to make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable
> that we've addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will
> want to do some Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.
>
>
> One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and
> rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple
> fine meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very
> near future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about t

Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Am I the only one who sits up late on week nights sailing vicariously
through others' YouTube  videos? (while usually knocking back a few cold
ones)

My favorites are:

   - S/V Delos - explores cultures of the world aboard a 53' Amel Super
   Miramu 2000 with 6 aboard
   - Abandon Comfort - young couple casting off in pursuit of minimalism
   - Another Adventure - Key West minimalist sailor, series is in it's
   infancy
   - Sailing LaVagabond - couple sailing the world aboard 45' new Otremer
   catamaran donated by the manufacturer
   - Sailing Zingaro - minimalist couple DIY fix-it
   - More daily...


Of course we sail every Thursday and at least every other weekend, so
there's that. More cruising soon.

Anyone else?

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36 KCB Chamamé
DIYC Tampa, FL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Wow what a bunch of couch surfers! (just kidding) Love seeing C&Cs on the
water and in action!

Forgot to mention  - Sailing Doodles - a C&C 37 from Texas to the Florida
keys and Exhumas. A commercial pilot was grounded for medical reasons so he
bought a boat and went sailing. Apparently quite successfully, although
recently sailing a newer boat for his Pacific crossing.

Wondering if these videos have provided a push for wanna-be skippers to
cast off for long term cruising? Anybody know if there has there been a
spike in activity since YouTube became a thing?

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36 KCB Chamamé
DIYC Tampa, FL

On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 1:44 PM, John Christopher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I do watch your channel as well.
>
>
> /John
>
> On Jul 26, 2018, at 9:39 AM, Daniel Cormier  wrote:
>
> You forgot your very own Sailing Balachandra (my channel) lol
> But we’re one of the few channels sailing on a C&C!
> We don’t have the following those other channels have but we also didn’t
> start back in 2012 when it was new and they built their core audiences...
> AND we’re not cruising around the South China Sea naked! (Yet)
>
> http://www.youtube.com/sailingbalachandra
>
> Dan
> Balachandra
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 26, 2018, at 9:54 AM, coltrek--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Where do you find all those energetic Young Bucks? And great
> cinematographers too, by the way! Nice job.! That would be a great race to
> do - on someone else's boat!
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
>
>
> --
> On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> You may be entertained these YouTube videos one of my crewmembers made of
> the Bermuda Race with me on Masquerade, the boat that replaced my treasured
> C&C 40.
> https://youtu.be/_hFRocpOT6I
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Jul 25, 2018, at 16:05, James Bibb via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Im with you!
>
> Janes Bibb
> C&C 34-36r Darwin’s Folly
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 25, 2018, at 12:03 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Am I the only one who sits up late on week nights sailing vicariously
> through others' YouTube  videos? (while usually knocking back a few cold
> ones)
>
> My favorites are:
>
>- S/V Delos - explores cultures of the world aboard a 53' Amel Super
>Miramu 2000 with 6 aboard
>- Abandon Comfort - young couple casting off in pursuit of minimalism
>- Another Adventure - Key West minimalist sailor, series is in it's
>infancy
>- Sailing LaVagabond - couple sailing the world aboard 45' new Otremer
>catamaran donated by the manufacturer
>- Sailing Zingaro - minimalist couple DIY fix-it
>- More daily...
>
>
> Of course we sail every Thursday and at least every other weekend, so
> there's that. More cruising soon.
>
> Anyone else?
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> C&C 36 KCB Chamamé
> DIYC Tampa, FL
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 36-1 centerboard pendant

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Rod,

My setup is a little different, but may be more easily serviced.

I've done this a couple of times last year and had to follow up to get the
dimensions exactly right. We did it in the water - diver worked below. We
sent down a light gauge messenger line and used it to pull in the new
pendant. Easy. Mine is made with dyneema with an eye splice at each end.
Lower shackle is 5/16 and upper is smaller (3/16" I think). Can't remember
the price but it was under $100. Maybe $70. Lasts a coupe of years.

Centerboard pendant
Dyneema12'6"x5/16" LOA (not incl D shackle)
Ocean 3000XG 5/16" 9900 lbs.; std D shackle 5/16", L:29mm, W:17mm (Island
Nautical) Jul 3, 2018

Hope this helps. Call if you need more info.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 #244 Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text


On Tue, Oct 1, 2019 at 3:22 PM Michael Brannon via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rod,  the arrangement on my boat is a thimble to a shackle at the
> centerboard.   You will have to cut the wire the remove it as the thimble
> will not fit through the tube.   My pendant has an aircraft fork on deck.
> The only thimble is at the board.
>
> I hope this helps,
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> C&C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
>
> On Oct 1, 2019, at 1:07 PM, Rod Fisk via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have to replace the wire pendant on my 1981 36-1. There are some broken
> wires where the cable wraps around the thimble at the deck end. Does anyone
> have any detailed specs or drawings? I work at an industrial rigging shop
> so I can have a new one made. I also want to know what to expect when I
> lift the boat this month so I have the right tools to take off the old one.
>
> Thanks
> Rod Fisk
> 36-1 Corsair Lake Winnebago, WI
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 36-1 centerboard pendant

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

post
> about fraying)?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 2, 2019, 1:47:57 PM EDT, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> FWIW, I like amsteel where I can see it. I spliced my lifelines in
> amsteel. And I replaced a SS cable in my vang with dyneema. I use soft
> schackles. But I think I'd prefer a centerboard pendant to be SS where it
> can stand up to unseen abrasion & barnacles and will last 20 + years. Am I
> overthinking this?
>
> Chuck S, Resolute, 1990 C&C 34R Maryland
>
> On October 2, 2019 at 12:06 PM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Rod,
>
> My setup is a little different, but may be more easily serviced.
>
> I've done this a couple of times last year and had to follow up to get the
> dimensions exactly right. We did it in the water - diver worked below. We
> sent down a light gauge messenger line and used it to pull in the new
> pendant. Easy. Mine is made with dyneema with an eye splice at each end.
> Lower shackle is 5/16 and upper is smaller (3/16" I think). Can't remember
> the price but it was under $100. Maybe $70. Lasts a coupe of years.
>
> Centerboard pendant
> Dyneema12'6"x5/16" LOA (not incl D shackle)
> Ocean 3000XG 5/16" 9900 lbs.; std D shackle 5/16", L:29mm, W:17mm (Island
> Nautical) Jul 3, 2018
>
> Hope this helps. Call if you need more info.
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> 1981 C&C 36-1 #244 Chamamé
> Tampa, FL
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 1, 2019 at 3:22 PM Michael Brannon via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Rod,  the arrangement on my boat is a thimble to a shackle at the
> centerboard.   You will have to cut the wire the remove it as the thimble
> will not fit through the tube.   My pendant has an aircraft fork on deck.
> The only thimble is at the board.
>
> I hope this helps,
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> C&C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
>
> On Oct 1, 2019, at 1:07 PM, Rod Fisk via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have to replace the wire pendant on my 1981 36-1. There are some broken
> wires where the cable wraps around the thimble at the deck end. Does anyone
> have any detailed specs or drawings? I work at an industrial rigging shop
> so I can have a new one made. I also want to know what to expect when I
> lift the boat this month so I have the right tools to take off the old one.
>
> Thanks
> Rod Fisk
> 36-1 Corsair Lake Winnebago, WI
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 36-1 centerboard pendant

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Thanks Richard - I just joined the museum and sent an email request to the
curator. It appears the museum is operational by their web presence and
active phone number (that went to voicemail). I'll reply and let the group
know what I encounter. Contact info was in the cnc-list archives.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text


On Thu, Oct 3, 2019 at 6:28 AM Richard Bush  wrote:

> Tim, if they're still operational the Museum of he Great Lakes has the
> specs; I obtained the drawings for my 37 and it included a very specific
> diagram of the centerboard arrangement; I would bet that the 36 specs do
> alsolet me know if you need the links
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -----Original Message-
> From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Tim Rutherford 
> Sent: Thu, Oct 3, 2019 12:44 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 36-1 centerboard pendant
>
> This is really good discussion and the drawings are a terrific resource
> for the 36XL and 37/40+ owners.
>
> The design of the centerboard on the C&C 36-1 KCB of the 1980's vintage is
> different. The "board" is really more of a blade, not nearly as elegant,
> but it is also quite heavy and takes a similar amount of resolve to raise
> it up. I haven't heard if pendant failure causes similar destruction. Mine
> failed once at the dock with apparently no issues.
>
> I would love to see drawings for the 36-1 KCB. I'm planning to call that
> library up north that has C&C build files, but it keeps slipping down the
> list. Soon, I believe I will need to replace the metal pendant tube that
> goes from the cabin top to the centerboard well. It appears to be worn
> through at the lower radius, which is below the waterline.
>
> Fabrication drawings for the pendant tube on a 1980's vintage 36-1 KCB
> would be really helpful. Has anyone seen those?
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rendezvous in Florida

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

I'm in Tampa and keep Chamamé at Davis Island near downtown. There are 6 or
7 other C&Cs in our club too. Four including Chamamé are very active and
there's also a very nice C&C 40' for sale.

It would be fun to meet y'all. I'll follow your plans and try to attend. If
a date materializes I'll let the others know about it.

--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text


On Wed, Nov 6, 2019 at 2:42 PM Glenn Henderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have WeGo, '86 C&C 41 in Treasure Island, FL. I would be able to meet in
> Venice/Sarasota/Tampa Ba area.
>
> Glenn Henderson
>
> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 3:13 PM  wrote:
>
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>1. Re:  C&C Rendezvous -- Florida (February 2020?) (Richard Bush)
>>2. Re:  C&C Rendezvous -- Florida (February 2020?) (Edd Schillay)
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Richard Bush 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 20:07:31 + (UTC)
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Rendezvous -- Florida (February 2020?)
>> Okay, for those of us in the hinterlands, what is Talos IV...?
>>
>> Richard
>> s/v Bushmark4P: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>> 502-584-7255
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>> Cc: Edd Schillay 
>> Sent: Tue, Nov 5, 2019 3:03 pm
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Rendezvous -- Florida (February 2020?)
>>
>> Jon,
>>
>> My January schedule is a little tight, but it’s possible. Nevertheless,
>> let me know when you’re around and let’s meet up.
>>
>> And Matt, you know Talos IV is off limits. :-)
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>>
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:59 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> I’ll be down in Cape Haize (just south of Venice in January without
>> benefit of boat. . Try to do then.
>> Please.
>> Jon
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:49 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> There appears to be some interest in a winter rendezvous in sunny Florida
>> — here are a few thoughts:
>>
>> 1. As you know, Florida has two coasts, east and west, with the
>> Enterprise and Water Phantom on the west coast (35 miles apart) and some
>> others on the east coast. I think the idea of having an actual boat
>> rendezvous in a place that is reachable for people to sail to is pretty
>> slim. I also know of three other C&Cs in the gulf coast and Tampa Bay
>> areas.
>>
>> 2. Because we all boat here year-round (suck it, northerners!) marina
>> space for more than a handful of boats seems to be a stretch. Then again,
>> see #1 above.
>>
>> 3. That being said, I could organize a C&C Owners’ Rendezvous in Sarasota
>> (even at my club in Venice), Tampa, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, or other such
>> place that could be an easy drive or flight.
>>
>>
>> I welcome everyone’s (even David Risch’s) thoughts and then I’ll put out
>> a survey. Should we have a owners’ rendezvous, what kinds of things would
>> you like the group to do (You know, besides eat and drink) — seminar, guest
>> speaker, etc.?
>>
>> If we were to do something in the Venice - Sarasota - Tampa - Clearwater
>> area, I’m sure we could get the Enterprise and Water Phantom, and perhaps
>> one or two more, to a location. I am confident that I can organize hotel
>> (or hotel options) and a place for us to meet as I do marketing and event
>> planning for a living.
>>
>> Warning though -- I understand in February it can be a little chilly
>> here, with highs in the mid 70s. Br. (Insert evil laugh here.)
>>
>> Chime in, folks. Please.
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>>
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the li

Re: Stus-List Rendezvous in Florida

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

That's a good idea - I'll mention it to 'em.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text


On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 1:38 PM detroito91  wrote:

> Make sure the others are signed up for this listing. They can get the info
> first hand.
> Jim Schwartz
> SEA YA !
> 38 landfall
> Washington nc
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
> ---- Original message 
> From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
> Date: 11/12/19 10:26 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Tim Rutherford 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rendezvous in Florida
>
> I'm in Tampa and keep Chamamé at Davis Island near downtown. There are 6
> or 7 other C&Cs in our club too. Four including Chamamé are very active and
> there's also a very nice C&C 40' for sale.
>
> It would be fun to meet y'all. I'll follow your plans and try to attend.
> If a date materializes I'll let the others know about it.
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> 1981 C&C 36-1 #244 Chamamé
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 6, 2019 at 2:42 PM Glenn Henderson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have WeGo, '86 C&C 41 in Treasure Island, FL. I would be able to meet
>> in Venice/Sarasota/Tampa Ba area.
>>
>> Glenn Henderson
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 3:13 PM  wrote:
>>
>>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>>> Today's Topics:
>>>
>>>1. Re:  C&C Rendezvous -- Florida (February 2020?) (Richard Bush)
>>>2. Re:  C&C Rendezvous -- Florida (February 2020?) (Edd Schillay)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Richard Bush 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc:
>>> Bcc:
>>> Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 20:07:31 + (UTC)
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Rendezvous -- Florida (February 2020?)
>>> Okay, for those of us in the hinterlands, what is Talos IV...?
>>>
>>> Richard
>>> s/v Bushmark4P: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>>> 502-584-7255
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>> Cc: Edd Schillay 
>>> Sent: Tue, Nov 5, 2019 3:03 pm
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Rendezvous -- Florida (February 2020?)
>>>
>>> Jon,
>>>
>>> My January schedule is a little tight, but it’s possible. Nevertheless,
>>> let me know when you’re around and let’s meet up.
>>>
>>> And Matt, you know Talos IV is off limits. :-)
>>>
>>> All the best,
>>>
>>> Edd
>>>
>>>
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>>>
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:59 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I’ll be down in Cape Haize (just south of Venice in January without
>>> benefit of boat. . Try to do then.
>>> Please.
>>> Jon
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:49 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Listers,
>>>
>>> There appears to be some interest in a winter rendezvous in sunny
>>> Florida — here are a few thoughts:
>>>
>>> 1. As you know, Florida has two coasts, east and west, with the
>>> Enterprise and Water Phantom on the west coast (35 miles apart) and some
>>

Stus-List Masthead Sheave Lubrication

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Please share drawings or experience with halyard screeching and/or
lubricating masthead sheaves on C&C 36-1 or similar.

Main halyard sheave at the masthead makes a heck of noise when hoisting, I
mean really, it broadcasts a horrific screech to the entire basin as we
raised the main.

Sounds like a giant dull and unlubricated drill bit drilling into stainless
steel. Slowly. In fits and starts. You probably know the sound, almost
every marina has one, I just wish it wasn't us.

Recently went up there to retrieve a spin halyard and it seems that the
sheave spins freely. It looks to be about 1/2" X 3". Anyway, while there
used the edge of a popsicle stick to press in a fair amount of Superlube(R)
synthetic grease and then when it appeared that didn't work followed up
with a liberal amount of spray through a straw, all directed at the center
shaft. Waited a few weeks in hopes that it would work it's way in and cure
the squeak but it hasn't happened so far. Still raising heII when raising.
I already purchased all the 36-1 drawings that Doug could find from the
Marine Museum in Kingston ON, but none of a masthead detail. Similar might
be helpful.

Any help is appreciated.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Chamamé & Crew at Hospice Cup '19

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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheave

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Len - thanks for the quick reply! I left a voicemail at Klacko, their
website says reduced hours and appropriate precautions are in place for the
times. I'll update when I get more info.

I looked at the mast and it has a manufacturer's logo affixed but it is
unreadable. Can you tell if it's the Klacko logo? See link to photo
.

Many thanks!
--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com



On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 2:38 PM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim, I had a 1981 C&C 36KCB a decade ago and I believe Klacko Marine in
> Ontario originally provided that spar. If Dan is still working he will
> likely be able to answer any question about it. If not his son is very
> knowledgeable too. I believe there is Klacko marine and Klacko spars. Try
> calling the spars company first. Klackospars.com. Good luck.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheave

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Follow up on this thread for future readers:
I successfully reached out Klacko and Dan returned my call and left
voicemail to say that several manufacturers supplied masts for that vintage
vessel but that mine was one of the best. He didn't specifically say
whether it was Klacko but added that the sheaves are solid aluminum with an
oilite bearing pressed into the center, and that likely the oilite is worn
out. He said they're reasonably inexpensive and probably locally available
from a rigger.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com



On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 2:38 PM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim, I had a 1981 C&C 36KCB a decade ago and I believe Klacko Marine in
> Ontario originally provided that spar. If Dan is still working he will
> likely be able to answer any question about it. If not his son is very
> knowledgeable too. I believe there is Klacko marine and Klacko spars. Try
> calling the spars company first. Klackospars.com. Good luck.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Bow Chainplate Access & Inspection - 1981 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

When inspecting chainplates prior to re-rigging (standing rigging), what
should I know about disassembling the bow chainplate and stemhead casting?
As that area reasonably serviceable? Stainless galling and oxide seizing
notwithstanding.

One chainplate has already been done and looked pristine. Please share
experiences, and tips.

Vessel was retrofitted with wire rope by a previous owner.

Many thanks in advance.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List water pump seal

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

I had challenges in disassembly. Look at a drawing of the components first,
there are circlips on the shaft in an unusual location. The shaft won't
come out if they're in place.

On Wed, May 27, 2020, 15:36 Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Any one have experience pressing in a new seal
> in the 3gm raw water pump.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gerry
> Fianna 1985 35 MK3
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bow Chainplate Access & Inspection - 1981 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Complete standing rigging replacement pending inspection of chainplates.
Shroud and backstay inspections are complete.

Question: for the stemhead & forestay chainplate inspection, please share
experience with disassembly, inspection, and reassembly of the forestay
chainplate..

 Re-posting again with photos.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lJGkeLhbSBcnUv3PbuDoTgp2C6Ui1Yt0/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o1HSsTtrRpCb0i3L30I-qKppILF4XK6U/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jta-_MxQNIZkbMZz2ZMX0RYB1Lo8vE8u/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cc64ayXSg69t6N9Fa1lVsLDpQy9VTnVH/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/13GUwfUuWtYO_TPtDHFtnMKC21hKXbTLs/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CJr_5-T0HkISE610Nqr4-7Uzhkqf9o1C/view?usp=sharing


This is why I think it needs to be inspected:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12fnI9gUnAJygoHm_LVrbgG9NTP11wuBC/view?usp=sharing

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text



On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 1:59 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When inspecting chainplates prior to re-rigging (standing rigging), what
> should I know about disassembling the bow chainplate and stemhead casting?
> As that area reasonably serviceable? Stainless galling and oxide seizing
> notwithstanding.
>
> One chainplate has already been done and looked pristine. Please share
> experiences, and tips.
>
> Vessel was retrofitted with wire rope by a previous owner.
>
> Many thanks in advance.
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> 1981 C&C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Stus-List Cabinetry Parts - Fiddle Castings

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Well, here's a situation where I should have asked the question first.

Took the fiddle castings, shown in a picture, to a local powder coating
shop. Today I received a call that the castings are apparently aluminum and
were melted in the process. The shop offers to replace or credit for
damage.

Do we have a source of fiddle castings?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JjZzOnMrnAmHXdP5bMxcjVZc5KY12nQT/view?usp=sharing

Many thanks in advance.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
___

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Re: Stus-List Cabinetry Parts - Fiddle Castings

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Yep, that's the one. Thanks Ken.

To clarify about the material, I said aluminum but it is likely something
else. Vendor said maybe magnesium would have a lower melting point.

Much appreciation!
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com


On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 5:27 PM Ken Heaton  wrote:

> This one?
>
> https://southshoreyachts.com/shop/round-corner-grab/
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 at 17:57, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Well, here's a situation where I should have asked the question first.
>>
>> Took the fiddle castings, shown in a picture, to a local powder coating
>> shop. Today I received a call that the castings are apparently aluminum and
>> were melted in the process. The shop offers to replace or credit for
>> damage.
>>
>> Do we have a source of fiddle castings?
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JjZzOnMrnAmHXdP5bMxcjVZc5KY12nQT/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Many thanks in advance.
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> 1981 C&C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Re fiddle castings.

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Yeah, the coating shop felt terrible. Yours to powder, mine into puddles...
Vendor promises to make it right though.

Wonder what the material is...?

On Tue, Jun 9, 2020, 08:53 Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Interesting . . . .
>
>
>
> I didn’t think there were stainless ones there  . . . . but I got the
> painted ones from Rob at South Shore . . . (after I tried powder-coating
> the old ones – which turned into powder) . . .
>
>
>
> While working here at Edson, we did a stainless version for Barry Carroll
> to use on his boats, but sadly we stopped casting them – too expensive  . .
> . . I have one on my desk for decoration . . .
>
>
>
> Rob Ball,  C&C 34
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Supplier for Chainplate Cover Plate

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Please reply if there is a source for these chaniplate deck plates off the
shelf or if I must have them fabricated. Existing aluminum plates are
corroded beyond serviceable.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RCqpRJxqUCqm8JhYlzMBX4HcBAZDyNQ3/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/13aQ5fYq4RlNmBqZCMr2jKh_2dTjp_UuM/view?usp=sharing

Thanks,
-- 
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Tampa, FL
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Johnson Pumps integrated pump and electronic sensor 32-47260-003 1000 GPH
Ultima Bilge Pump, 12V, works good for me now.

The bilge on my centerboard boat is quite shallow and there is no room for
a switch at the same level as the pump resulting in more than necessary
residual water level  if controled with a typical float switch. This pump
requires careful placement to ensure proper start-stop operation. First
unit ran dry and failed but was replaced under warranty. Works with a
typical 3-wire bilge control panel.

Pump runs dry sometimes when sailing heeled over so occassionally have to
switch to manual.

This freed up the existing rule-matic switch to be used as a high water
sensor wired to a water witch BP500 alarm mounted topside in the cockpit.

Wish I had a diaphragm pump for a really dry bilge but with the A/C running
almost nonstop here in Florida, and draining condensate into the bilge,
it's not a likely solution.

--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Tampa, Florida


On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 4:02 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers:
>
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
> suggestions.
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Yanmar 3HM, 2.14:1 ratio, Eliptec 17x10 2-blade folding

Tracked 12 hours of runtime one weekend last year coming part way back to
Tampa from Fort Myers.

She made 6.36 knots at about 2500 RPM and uses about 0.91 gallons/hour in
calm seas. Throttle seems to be about 2/3. Throttle up till she smokes then
back down a fair amount to set rate.

--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Tampa, Florida

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 12:53 Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi
> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally
the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it
doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for
bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your thoughts on
how best to proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks in the
fairing.

>From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and
bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with
a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is
required is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and
replace, seal, and re-fair.

My questions are:
1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is
necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft
slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log
and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I
can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more
time than money, so DIY work is preferred.

2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan
final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands
cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an
independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.

2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the method
of application?

The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of
clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at
Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar
mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound
like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop
speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I
purchased the boat in June '17, and after about a hundred hours of
motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is getting a new maintenance kit,
and of course, the strut a new cutlass bearing.

Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something
similar. All help is appreciated.
--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really appreciated!

--
Tim Rutherford

C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com



On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it.  It was a
> straightforward job.  I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the
> nuts.
>
> Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4
> fastener holes on the underside.  This lets the sealant form an o-ring
> around the fastener.  I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant.  I recall I
> used new fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts.
>
> The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair,
> sanded and painted.
>
> The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed
> without any further ado.  The lack of vibration after completion indicates
> that the job was successful.  If there had been any vibration, I would have
> done an alignment.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1#83
> Mandevile, LA
>
> On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally
> the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it
> doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for
> bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your thoughts on
> how best to proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks in the
> fairing.
>
> From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and
> bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with
> a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is
> required is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and
> replace, seal, and re-fair.
>
> My questions are:
> 1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is
> necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft
> slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log
> and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I
> can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more
> time than money, so DIY work is preferred.
>
> 2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan
> final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands
> cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an
> independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.
>
> 2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the method
> of application?
>
> The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of
> clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at
> Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar
> mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound
> like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop
> speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I
> purchased the boat in June '17, and after about a hundred hours of
> motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is getting a new maintenance kit,
> and of course, the strut a new cutlass bearing.
>
> Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something
> similar. All help is appreciated.
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
> Tampa, FL
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Update.

Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's carbon
stator and hard against the  forward end of the cutless bearing.This all
makes sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and is
reflected in the shaft wear patterns.

Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new
replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut.

Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way
back.

Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the log
too high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination of
the packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that area. I
ordered a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit)  too. The face was
also scored and it was worn off-center.

Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan is
to assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then shim
the shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft
weight. Then raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes
contact first and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next
step. Then Ill prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut
with a release agent (or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base
makes contact in the area where that one (1) screw is located and support
it there with only slightly more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill
the three (3) remaining screw holes with epoxy and let it all set up.
After the epoxy has cured, I'll re-drill the remaining screw holes then
re-bed the whole shebang with sealant.

Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the
bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but
that's a different thread!

Any shared experience is always welcomed!

--
Tim Rutherford

C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com


On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford <
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really appreciated!
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> 
> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
> Tampa, FL
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it.  It was a
>> straightforward job.  I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the
>> nuts.
>>
>> Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4
>> fastener holes on the underside.  This lets the sealant form an o-ring
>> around the fastener.  I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant.  I recall I
>> used new fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts.
>>
>> The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair,
>> sanded and painted.
>>
>> The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed
>> without any further ado.  The lack of vibration after completion indicates
>> that the job was successful.  If there had been any vibration, I would have
>> done an alignment.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1#83
>> Mandevile, LA
>>
>> On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and
>> externally the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base
>> although it doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on
>> the hard for bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your
>> thoughts on how best to proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks
>> in the fairing.
>>
>> From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and
>> bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with
>> a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is
>> required is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and
>> replace, seal, and re-fair.
>>
>> My questions are:
>> 1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is
>> necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft
>> slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log
>> and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I
>> can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more
>> time than money, so DIY work is preferred.
>>
>> 2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the

Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I think
the strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and
offset and of course, a vendor lead would help too.

It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too
long, among other things.

The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the
angle seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than
an eighth of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an
angle, thinner forward. And it still didn't fit!  The center-line of the
strut bearing is still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log.
When I bolt it all up the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm
thinking it's time to start with a spec strut, or something close, and
build the bed to fit. Or just run it; I'm not sure.

Tim Rutherford

C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com


On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne 
wrote:

> I suggest wax paper vs cellophane
>
> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Update.
>>
>> Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's
>> carbon stator and hard against the  forward end of the cutless bearing.This
>> all makes sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and
>> is reflected in the shaft wear patterns.
>>
>> Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new
>> replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut.
>>
>> Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way
>> back.
>>
>> Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the
>> log too high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination
>> of the packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that
>> area. I ordered a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit)  too. The
>> face was also scored and it was worn off-center.
>>
>> Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan
>> is to assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then
>> shim the shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft
>> weight. Then raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes
>> contact first and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next
>> step. Then Ill prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut
>> with a release agent (or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base
>> makes contact in the area where that one (1) screw is located and support
>> it there with only slightly more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill
>> the three (3) remaining screw holes with epoxy and let it all set up.
>> After the epoxy has cured, I'll re-drill the remaining screw holes then
>> re-bed the whole shebang with sealant.
>>
>> Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the
>> bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but
>> that's a different thread!
>>
>> Any shared experience is always welcomed!
>>
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> 
>> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
>> Tampa, FL
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford <
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really
>>> appreciated!
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Rutherford
>>> 
>>> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
>>> Tampa, FL
>>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it.  It was a
>>>> straightforward job.  I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the
>>>> nuts.
>>>>
>>>> Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4
>>>> fastener holes on the underside.  This lets the sealant form an o-ring
>>>> around the fastener.  I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant.  I recall I
>>>> used new fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts.
>>>>
>>>> The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with
>>>> AwlFair, sanded and painted.
>>>>
>>>> The alignment was pretty true

Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Mechanic says shaft to engine alignment is achievable but the issue is
that, with the strut too long, the shaft is not parallel to the log and so
dripless packing alignment is skewed.
--

Tim Rutherford

C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé

Tampa, FL


On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 8:25 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Tim
>
>
>
> You might wish to start with having and experienced engine specialist see
> if the shaft can be aligned within tolerances with the existing in place
> strut.  You would get a pretty clear idea of what is needed at that point
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Rutherford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 17, 2019 1:23 AM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Cc:* Tim Rutherford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and
> Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB
>
>
>
> Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I
> think the strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and
> offset and of course, a vendor lead would help too.
>
>
>
> It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too
> long, among other things.
>
>
>
> The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the
> angle seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than
> an eighth of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an
> angle, thinner forward. And it still didn't fit!  The center-line of the
> strut bearing is still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log.
> When I bolt it all up the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm
> thinking it's time to start with a spec strut, or something close, and
> build the bed to fit. Or just run it; I'm not sure.
>
>
> Tim Rutherford
>
> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
>
> Tampa, FL
>
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne 
> wrote:
>
> I suggest wax paper vs cellophane
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Update.
>
>
>
> Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's carbon
> stator and hard against the  forward end of the cutless bearing.This all
> makes sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and is
> reflected in the shaft wear patterns.
>
>
>
> Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new
> replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut.
>
>
>
> Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way
> back.
>
>
>
> Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the
> log too high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination
> of the packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that
> area. I ordered a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit)  too. The
> face was also scored and it was worn off-center.
>
>
>
> Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan is
> to assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then shim
> the shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft
> weight. Then raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes
> contact first and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next
> step. Then Ill prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut
> with a release agent (or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base
> makes contact in the area where that one (1) screw is located and support
> it there with only slightly more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill
> the three (3) remaining screw holes with epoxy and let it all set up.
> After the epoxy has cured, I'll re-drill the remaining screw holes then
> re-bed the whole shebang with sealant.
>
>
>
> Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the
> bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but
> that's a different thread!
>
>
>
> Any shared experience is always welcomed!
>
>
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
>
> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
>
> Tampa, FL
>
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford <
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your co

Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Thanks for the leads on this repair. Still going down the rabbit hole...

Buck Algonquin, who is now Hydrasearch Recreational, can't match it up or
quote custom fabrication at this time. Quote requests are still out to
Miller's Island (foundry) and Algonac Marine Castings. May have better
success with a casting number and so have sent a request to 36 owners for
help. I know there's a lot of boats on the hard up north so maybe it
wouldn't be too much trouble for someone to grab a casting number. Still
scouring the internet for salvers who may have a used one on the shelf.

Short of that it looks like, I'll be forced to have the existing strut cut
and welded by the local prop shop, it's about 3/4" too long. Not sure of
the reliability of a welded strut.

Any thoughts or ideas on a solution ( or issues with cut/weld solution) are
appreciated. I'll share the results when I get them.
--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL

On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 11:09 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think Buck Algonquin made most of those shafts, and probably still do.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Rutherford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 17, 2019 12:23 AM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Cc:* Tim Rutherford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and
> Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB
>
>
>
> Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I
> think the strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and
> offset and of course, a vendor lead would help too.
>
>
>
> It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too
> long, among other things.
>
>
>
> The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the
> angle seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than
> an eighth of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an
> angle, thinner forward. And it still didn't fit!  The center-line of the
> strut bearing is still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log.
> When I bolt it all up the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm
> thinking it's time to start with a spec strut, or something close, and
> build the bed to fit. Or just run it; I'm not sure.
>
>
> Tim Rutherford
>
> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
>
> Tampa, FL
>
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne 
> wrote:
>
> I suggest wax paper vs cellophane
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Update.
>
>
>
> Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's carbon
> stator and hard against the  forward end of the cutless bearing.This all
> makes sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and is
> reflected in the shaft wear patterns.
>
>
>
> Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new
> replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut.
>
>
>
> Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way
> back.
>
>
>
> Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the
> log too high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination
> of the packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that
> area. I ordered a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit)  too. The
> face was also scored and it was worn off-center.
>
>
>
> Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan is
> to assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then shim
> the shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft
> weight. Then raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes
> contact first and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next
> step. Then Ill prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut
> with a release agent (or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base
> makes contact in the area where that one (1) screw is located and support
> it there with only slightly more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill
> the three (3) remaining screw holes with epoxy and let it all set up.
> After the epoxy has cured, I'll re-drill the remaining screw holes then
> re-bed the whole shebang with sealant.
>
>
>
> Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the
> bronze thrust plate ju

Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Many thanks for your consideration and for your comments.

I have heard from several owners C&C 36's (with my exact boat model) and
from their photos have determined that the installed strut is likely the
one supplied by C&C from the factory and after technical consultation, I
think that the alignment issue can be mitigated with careful installation
of the existing parts.

Conversation with tech support at PYI about mounting tolerances of the PSS
dripless packing leads me to believe that, with what now amounts to shaft
log misalignment, suitable installation can be achieved by care in mounting
the bellows of the dripless packing. *In the end, engine/prop shaft/strut &
cutless bearing alignment have no issues,* and the angle of the shaft log
and it's effect on the shaft seal can be accommodated by tilted mounting of
the bellows, per their instructions. Their support tech even went on to say
that in more extreme cases, usually involving much higher RPMs, horsepower,
and misalignment, that PYI supplies over bored carbon blocks to accommodate
even higher mounting tolerances. Certainly the one I removed from service
was in a much worse situation and was working fine.

Perfect? No. Operationally suitable, reliable, and serviceable? Probably.

I really wanna go sailing...
--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL


On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 10:51 AM Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Might find one with right dimensions. Jerry
> Hunter OEM Parts
> [image: 275x225x1]
> Hunter prop struts and shafts
> Everything you need for your power train
>
> http://sbowners.acemlnb.com/lt.php?s=a516042b0af6450bf9b39c6d664ca43e&i=1267A1621A1A48221
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: CHAINPLATE/KNEE REPAIR 1981 C&C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the tip on the robustness of later construction. A friend has a
33-2 about four slips down, I'll have a look.
--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
SMS/voice 813 748 4888


On Wed, Oct 27, 2021 at 3:13 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> It’s interesting to see how the chainplate attachment progressed over
> time.  The post ‘84 boats seem to have solved this issue.   (I own a
> 33-2).  When I was originally boat shopping I checked the chainplates in
> each (corvettes, various 35s, and 33,34, 33-2.   Issues or prior repairs in
> the older boats were the rule, not the exception.
>
> If I were trying to fix an older model I might at least look at the 33-2,
> 35-3, and 41 (and probably later models) for ideas.
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 27, 2021, at 2:06 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I don't know if chainplate deterioration is unique to the C&C 36 but I
> know of two 36's at our club that had the chainplate pullup through the
> deck under sailFYI.
>
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32- #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> *From:* Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
> 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 27, 2021 11:24 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeffrey A. Laman  
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: CHAINPLATE/KNEE REPAIR 1981 C&C 36-1
> KCB
>
>
>
> I don't know that this chainplate knee deterioration is unique to the
> C&C36 and hope that all owners take a thorough and careful look at their
> boat.
>
>
>
> Jeff Laman
>
> 1981 C&C34 "Harmony"
>
> Ludington, MI
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Corroded Centerboard Pendant Tube 1981 36-1

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

 Looking for experience on procurement and replacement of the Centerboard
Pendant Tube (or whatever it's called) on 1981 C&C 36-1. This one shows
signs of corrosion and pinhole weeping on the aft facing part of the lower
radius. Is this common?

Going through the list of sources for drawings (Marine Museum, South Shore
Yachts) as a starting point. Likely will have a replacement fabricated
locally and schedule haul out once materials and dimensions are known.

Vessel: 1981 C&C 36-1 KCB
HIN: ZCC36244M81H (36-1 #244)
C&C Design Drawings Prefix: 76-6-NN

Thanks,
--
Tim Rutherford
S/V Chamamé (CHA-muh-may)
Davis Island Yacht Club
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com

Stus-List Broken C&C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Looking for a lead to buy salvage stern chocks for a 1981 C&C 36-1.

Both port and starboard chocks were broken when Hurricane Ian drained all
the water out of Tampa Bay and left our boats hanging by the dock lines.

I've checked the usual suspects already: Holland Marine, Klacko, South
Shore Yachts, Sailorman. Any help you can offer is most appreciated.

Piccies:
Port side broken stern chock

Starboard broken stern chock


Thanks,
--
Tim Rutherford
Davis Island Yacht Club
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken C&C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

I will try Don's but I'm not optimistic. Their focus is commercial and
recreational fishing but it's worth a shot. Thanks!

--Tim

On Wed, Jan 11, 2023, 15:02 Wyatt  wrote:

> Assuming you already tried 'Don's Marine Surplus & Salvage' in Clearwater?
> That place is the thing of legends.
>
> Wyatt
>
> On Wed, Jan 11, 2023 at 2:59 PM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Looking for a lead to buy salvage stern chocks for a 1981 C&C 36-1.
>>
>> Both port and starboard chocks were broken when Hurricane Ian drained all
>> the water out of Tampa Bay and left our boats hanging by the dock lines.
>>
>> I've checked the usual suspects already: Holland Marine, Klacko, South
>> Shore Yachts, Sailorman. Any help you can offer is most appreciated.
>>
>> Piccies:
>> Port side broken stern chock
>> <https://drive.google.com/open?id=11-3Yn1jPxa1p4-mzGdOuABU0TvxlohyD&authuser=tim.rutherford.mail%40gmail.com&usp=drive_fs>
>> Starboard broken stern chock
>> <https://drive.google.com/open?id=11-JOd2DQcynStSPS7SQKP6cKHEjVvLLL&authuser=tim.rutherford.mail%40gmail.com&usp=drive_fs>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> Davis Island Yacht Club
>> Tampa, FL
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken C&C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

As it turns out I evacuated to Naples, go figure! So dont have any pics of
my vessel specifically. Some were completely suspended however.

--Tim

On Wed, Jan 11, 2023, 15:07 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That must have been quite a sight! Was it balanced, sitting in the mud?
> Seems like that could have been a whole lot worse.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Wed, Jan 11, 2023, 15:00 Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Looking for a lead to buy salvage stern chocks for a 1981 C&C 36-1.
>>
>> Both port and starboard chocks were broken when Hurricane Ian drained all
>> the water out of Tampa Bay and left our boats hanging by the dock lines.
>>
>> I've checked the usual suspects already: Holland Marine, Klacko, South
>> Shore Yachts, Sailorman. Any help you can offer is most appreciated.
>>
>> Piccies:
>> Port side broken stern chock
>> <https://drive.google.com/open?id=11-3Yn1jPxa1p4-mzGdOuABU0TvxlohyD&authuser=tim.rutherford.mail%40gmail.com&usp=drive_fs>
>> Starboard broken stern chock
>> <https://drive.google.com/open?id=11-JOd2DQcynStSPS7SQKP6cKHEjVvLLL&authuser=tim.rutherford.mail%40gmail.com&usp=drive_fs>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> Davis Island Yacht Club
>> Tampa, FL
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken C&C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hans/John,

Thanks for the info - I'll contact them and report back if successful.

--
Tim Rutherford
S/V Chamamé (CHA-muh-may)
Davis Island Yacht Club
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com



On Thu, Jan 12, 2023 at 6:08 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim,
> Have you tried this PNW place? Near Bellingham WA and Vancouver BC
>
> http://sailboatwreckingyard.com/
>
> Hans R
> S/V Ete’
> 1982 CnC 37
> Shilshole Bay Marina
> Seattle
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 11, 2023, at 2:34 PM, John Read via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> 2 thumbs up on Mass Maritime
>
>
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* John McCrea via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2023 4:00 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' ; 'Wyatt' <
> wyattchamp...@gmail.com>
> *Cc:* johnmcc...@comcast.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Broken C&C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)
>
>
>
> This guy had a C&C 34 that he took in for parts.. Mass Marine Parts
> 
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Racing at night

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Great idea for glowsticks in the cooler!

Have had some success using fluorescent flagging tape tell-tales with UV
flashlight blacklights for nighttime sailing.

Used oversized and temporarily attached with a small piece of duct tape.
Illuminate with the battery powered handheld UV flashlight(s). Not all
flagging tape colors will fluoresce so check before buying. Sourced at Home
Depot for the tape, Amazon for the UV flashlight blacklight, or Google
"fluorescent flagging tape" and "UV flashlight blacklight".

We set a baseline for trim by illuminating the fluorescent tell-tales, and
we then use feel, heel, and wind instruments to maintain course,
occasionally re-checking the tell-tales for confirmation.
--
Tim Rutherford
S/V Chamamé (CHA-muh-may)
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB
Davis Island Yacht Club
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com



On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 2:46 PM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We solved the problem in a low tech way.  We only have 2 types of beer on
> board cold and warm.
> When you grab a can if it is cold you drink it.  If it is warm you throw
> it in the farthest part of the ice box
> and choose again.  You get 3 grabs before you drink warm beer.
>
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C&C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C.
>
> On 2023-02-28 15:43, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Not a joke – been doing that for ages now.
>
> joe
>
>
>
> *From:* Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
> 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 28, 2023 1:41 PM
> *To:* Stus-List  
> *Cc:* Glen Eddie  
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Racing at night
>
>
>
> Not sure if Stu is kidding but that is brilliant.
>
>
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
>
> *Glen Eddie*
>
> Legal services provided through J. Glen Eddie Professional Corporation
>
> Tel: *416-777-5357* <416-777-5357>
>
> Fax: *1-888-812-2557*
>
> *ged...@torkinmanes.com* 
>
> *VCard* 
>
> *Torkin Manes LLP*
>
> Barristers & Solicitors
>
> *Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer*
>
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
>
> *torkinmanes.com* 
>
> An international member of Ally Law
>
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received
> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email
> message. Thank you.
> --
>
> *From:* Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 28, 2023 11:53:16 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Racing at night
>
>
>
> I’ll repeat my night racing advice – toss a glowstick in the icebox. This
> stops people turning on the cabin lights to read the labels on the beer
> cans and blinding the on-deck crew 😊
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Disclaimer*
>
> The information contained in this communication from the sender is
> confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others
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>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution 
> at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Photo for anchor locker door for C&C 36

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Via,
Hopefully this reply isn't too late. I can have the requested photos to you
in the next day or two.
--
Capt. Tim Rutherford
S/V Chamamé (CHA-muh-may)
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB
Davis Island Yacht Club
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com


On Tue, Jan 3, 2023 at 2:31 PM Via via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have a missing anchor locker door on my 1978 C&C 36-1 and hoping someone
> can provide a picture of theirs.
>
> I am going to glass my own and want to make it as original looking as
> possible i.e., shape, hardware, etc…
>
> Thanks in advanced
>
> Via Bialkowski
>
> “Wind Dancer” ‘78 36-1
>
> Oriental, NC
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Galley/Nav Drawer Parts Source

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Looking for a source of the parts to repair a drawer from the Nav Station,
specifically the plastic corner pieces that join the front to the sides.

Photos linked below:
Photo 1 - the corner piece that is not broken, I need a piece like this on
the other side

Photo 2 - back corner

Photo 3 - drawer overview

Photo 4 - drawer construction materials


PSA - if you put too much hardware in a drawer and the boat heels in heavy
seas, it can all slide at once and break out the front of the drawer and
spill everything out onto the cabin sole. /end PSA

Cheers y'all. Any help you can offer is appreciated.
--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36-1 KCB Chamame'
DIYC - Tampa
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu