Update. Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's carbon stator and hard against the forward end of the cutless bearing.This all makes sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and is reflected in the shaft wear patterns.
Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut. Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way back. Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the log too high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination of the packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that area. I ordered a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit) too. The face was also scored and it was worn off-center. Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan is to assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then shim the shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft weight. Then raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes contact first and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next step. Then Ill prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut with a release agent (or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base makes contact in the area where that one (1) screw is located and support it there with only slightly more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill the three (3) remaining screw holes with epoxy and let it all set up. After the epoxy has cured, I'll re-drill the remaining screw holes then re-bed the whole shebang with sealant. Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but that's a different thread! Any shared experience is always welcomed! -- Tim Rutherford <tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé Tampa, FL tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford < tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com> wrote: > Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really appreciated! > > -- > Tim Rutherford > <tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com> > C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé > Tampa, FL > tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com > > > > On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it. It was a >> straightforward job. I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the >> nuts. >> >> Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4 >> fastener holes on the underside. This lets the sealant form an o-ring >> around the fastener. I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant. I recall I >> used new fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts. >> >> The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair, >> sanded and painted. >> >> The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed >> without any further ado. The lack of vibration after completion indicates >> that the job was successful. If there had been any vibration, I would have >> done an alignment. >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1#83 >> Mandevile, LA >> >> On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and >> externally the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base >> although it doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on >> the hard for bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your >> thoughts on how best to proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks >> in the fairing. >> >> From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and >> bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with >> a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is >> required is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and >> replace, seal, and re-fair. >> >> My questions are: >> 1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is >> necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft >> slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log >> and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I >> can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more >> time than money, so DIY work is preferred. >> >> 2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan >> final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands >> cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an >> independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment. >> >> 2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the >> method of application? >> >> The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of >> clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at >> Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar >> mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound >> like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop >> speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I >> purchased the boat in June '17, and after about a hundred hours of >> motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is getting a new maintenance kit, >> and of course, the strut a new cutlass bearing. >> >> Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something >> similar. All help is appreciated. >> -- >> Tim Rutherford >> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé >> Tampa, FL >> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com >> 813 748 4888 cel/text >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. 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