Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really appreciated!

--
Tim Rutherford
<tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com>
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com



On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it.  It was a
> straightforward job.  I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the
> nuts.
>
> Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4
> fastener holes on the underside.  This lets the sealant form an o-ring
> around the fastener.  I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant.  I recall I
> used new fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts.
>
> The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair,
> sanded and painted.
>
> The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed
> without any further ado.  The lack of vibration after completion indicates
> that the job was successful.  If there had been any vibration, I would have
> done an alignment.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1#83
> Mandevile, LA
>
> On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally
> the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it
> doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for
> bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your thoughts on
> how best to proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks in the
> fairing.
>
> From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and
> bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with
> a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is
> required is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and
> replace, seal, and re-fair.
>
> My questions are:
> 1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is
> necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft
> slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log
> and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I
> can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more
> time than money, so DIY work is preferred.
>
> 2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan
> final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands
> cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an
> independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.
>
> 2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the method
> of application?
>
> The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of
> clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at
> Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar
> mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound
> like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop
> speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I
> purchased the boat in June '17, and after about a hundred hours of
> motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is getting a new maintenance kit,
> and of course, the strut a new cutlass bearing.
>
> Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something
> similar. All help is appreciated.
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
> Tampa, FL
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
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