Thanks for the leads on this repair. Still going down the rabbit hole... Buck Algonquin, who is now Hydrasearch Recreational, can't match it up or quote custom fabrication at this time. Quote requests are still out to Miller's Island (foundry) and Algonac Marine Castings. May have better success with a casting number and so have sent a request to 36 owners for help. I know there's a lot of boats on the hard up north so maybe it wouldn't be too much trouble for someone to grab a casting number. Still scouring the internet for salvers who may have a used one on the shelf.
Short of that it looks like, I'll be forced to have the existing strut cut and welded by the local prop shop, it's about 3/4" too long. Not sure of the reliability of a welded strut. Any thoughts or ideas on a solution ( or issues with cut/weld solution) are appreciated. I'll share the results when I get them. -- Tim Rutherford C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé Tampa, FL On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 11:09 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I think Buck Algonquin made most of those shafts, and probably still do. > > > > Bill Coleman > > C&C 39 Erie, PA > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim > Rutherford via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, January 17, 2019 12:23 AM > *To:* cnc-list > *Cc:* Tim Rutherford > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and > Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB > > > > Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I > think the strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and > offset and of course, a vendor lead would help too. > > > > It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too > long, among other things. > > > > The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the > angle seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than > an eighth of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an > angle, thinner forward. And it still didn't fit! The center-line of the > strut bearing is still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log. > When I bolt it all up the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm > thinking it's time to start with a spec strut, or something close, and > build the bed to fit. Or just run it; I'm not sure. > > > Tim Rutherford > > C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé > > Tampa, FL > > tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com > > > > > > On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne <stephenltho...@gmail.com> > wrote: > > I suggest wax paper vs cellophane > > > > On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Update. > > > > Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's carbon > stator and hard against the forward end of the cutless bearing.This all > makes sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and is > reflected in the shaft wear patterns. > > > > Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new > replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut. > > > > Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way > back. > > > > Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the > log too high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination > of the packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that > area. I ordered a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit) too. The > face was also scored and it was worn off-center. > > > > Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan is > to assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then shim > the shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft > weight. Then raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes > contact first and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next > step. Then Ill prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut > with a release agent (or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base > makes contact in the area where that one (1) screw is located and support > it there with only slightly more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill > the three (3) remaining screw holes with epoxy and let it all set up. > After the epoxy has cured, I'll re-drill the remaining screw holes then > re-bed the whole shebang with sealant. > > > > Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the > bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but > that's a different thread! > > > > Any shared experience is always welcomed! > > > > -- > Tim Rutherford > > C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé > > Tampa, FL > > tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com > > > > > > On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford < > tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really appreciated! > > > > -- > Tim Rutherford > > C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé > > Tampa, FL > > tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com > > > > > > On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it. It was a > straightforward job. I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the > nuts. > > > > Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4 > fastener holes on the underside. This lets the sealant form an o-ring > around the fastener. I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant. I recall I > used new fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts. > > > > The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair, > sanded and painted. > > > > The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed > without any further ado. The lack of vibration after completion indicates > that the job was successful. If there had been any vibration, I would have > done an alignment. > > > > Dennis C. > > Touche' 35-1#83 > > Mandevile, LA > > > > On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally > the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it > doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for > bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your thoughts on > how best to proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks in the > fairing. > > > > From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and > bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with > a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is > required is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and > replace, seal, and re-fair. > > > > My questions are: > > 1) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is > necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft > slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log > and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I > can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more > time than money, so DIY work is preferred. > > > > 2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan > final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands > cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an > independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment. > > > > 2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the method > of application? > > > > The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of > clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at > Martec for refurb The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar > mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound > like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop > speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I > purchased the boat in June '17, and after about a hundred hours of > motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is getting a new maintenance kit, > and of course, the strut a new cutlass bearing. > > > > Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something > similar. All help is appreciated > > -- > Tim Rutherford > > C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé > > Tampa, FL > > tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com > 813 748 4888 cel/text > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
