Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

I am not up to speed on all of the high tech lines that are now available, but 
is it not possible to buy lines that are already pre-stretched?
The story you tell could be an argument for sticking with my tried and true 
wire and polyester halyards, but I did buy an ATN Top Climber, and I want to 
purchase the right rope. 

Steve 
  - Original Message - 
  From: coltrek via CnC-List 
  To: Joel Aronson ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Josh Muckley 
  Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 11:45 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?


  I had a lot of trouble with regular stay- set, then I took the line out to 
the shop, tied one end to a bollard,  the other to a fork lift and stretched it 
so tight I could walk on it for an afternoon.  Worked great after that. 




  Bill


   Original message 
  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
  Date:10/16/2014 10:19 PM (GMT-05:00) 
  To: Josh Muckley , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers? 


  Fwiw ATN was not at the Annapolis boat show this year. Always had a booth in 
the past. 
  I've seen the climber used. The rope must be tight for it to work well. I let 
others do the climbing. 


  Joel

  On Thursday, October 16, 2014, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Yeah Jack, ATN didn't do themselves any favors when then used the stretchy 
rope.  Too difficult to pull the rope tight enough.  If you get a chance to 
find some ascenders it would be easy to reuse everything you already have to 
make a "top climber"

A 4:1 block and tackle means that you have to use your arms to pull down 
40-50lbs, 75 to 100 times.  Not particularly hard but slow and tiring.  Using 
any ascender system relies on using you legs to simply squat your body weight 
30 to 40 times.  Easier than climbing 4 flights of stairs.  I estimated 1-2 
feet per pull or squat and a 50' mast.

Josh

On Oct 16, 2014 9:18 PM, "Jack Brennan via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  It’s worth wandering around the marina and testing a couple of systems 
before buying one.

  Everyone seems to have a different preference, depending on your fear of 
heights, taste for adventure, physical condition, etc.

  I inherited a Mast Mate and didn’t like the spongy feel of the ladder. I 
tried an ATN Mast Climber and didn’t like it much, either, probably because I 
wasn’t using a really taut, low-stretch line. Currently, I have a four-part 
system (two double blocks) with 200 feet of line that allows me to lift myself 
up if needed.

  Of course, the best system is the one I use most often – a wife who 
thinks it’s kind of fun to get lifted up the mast.

  Jack Brennan


--


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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List]

I have reason to believe this is a population control intentional spread of “A” 
virus like they did when they created “AIDS”

Correct me if I am wrong.

 

Yanni  Boatk\less in Ontario

Not for long…

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: October 16, 2014 8:54 PM
To: Josh Muckley; CNC boat owners, cnc-list; Josh Muckley; CNC boat owners, 
cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

Hi Josh,

 

Agree.  But why did they separate the two infected nurses, the ones that care 
for the ebola patient who died,  and send them to different hospitals for care? 
 That doubles the number of people exposed.  Maybe it's for training the 
hospital staff?

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: w...@wbryant.com  , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:50:00 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

Over the last 4 weeks I believe we are up to 6 total infected people 2 cured, 1 
dead.  By comparison 6 people per DAY die from electrocution.  We need to keep 
it in control but it is hardly a pandemic.  Oddly they are now choosing to 
transport an infected patient from Texas to Bethesda, MD.  Seems like maybe a 
questionable decision.

Josh
Solomons, MD

On Oct 16, 2014 7:36 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in the 
US and Canada.

Wal

-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com  


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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List]

I use 99% alcohol that I buy in five gallon pales for work to clean
everything and remove everything. I used it for butyl too and uncured epoxy
that I use for the base insulators, it is a little expensive but works
without harming anything.

 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario

Not for long.

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: Robert Abbott [mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca] 
Sent: October 16, 2014 8:45 PM
To: Letsgo Sailing; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Butyl

 

But the question was "what would remove butyl where it was not wanted".
Agreed varsol and paint thinner leave an 'oily film'.why wouldn't they,
they are petroleum based. 

But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm your deck
paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we apply to our deck paint,
annually!

So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the butyl is
removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can tolerate acetone. 

What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted butyl ?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote:

My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that
prevents proper sealing.  

--- Original Message ---

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List"  

Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
To: "Hoyt, Mike"   ,
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

Mike:
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from
where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using
butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly
impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of
that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List]

I hope you remember SARS few years back, the same thing over again. If it was 
that serious they N95 mask would have been sold out again.

 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario

Not for long…

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: October 16, 2014 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

I don't think we're immune to having a really serious problem. I'm hopeful it 
doesn't come to that but I think there is some potential. 

 

To set the mood:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sYSyuuLk5g 

 

There are a lot of people flying into Toronto from all over the world, every 
day. 8.8 million international passengers flew into Pearson so far this year 
(that number does not include the more than 7 million Americans). From the WHO 
website: "The incubation period, that is, the time interval from infection with 
the virus to onset of symptoms is 2 to 21 days. Humans are not infectious until 
they develop symptoms."

 

Symptoms are flu like. It's flu season. Someone could get off a plane and 'get 
the flu' 2 weeks later and start showing symptoms at their workplace, the 
subway, you name it. The nurses that got sick, they were taking every 
precaution they could .. what chance does a person have on a crowded subway? 
http://mathbench.umd.edu/modules/popn-dynamics_exponential-growth/page15.htm

 

I don't think that's going to happen, I just think it's not out of the realm of 
possibility, so it should be taken seriously.

 

I think Brent got it right though, "C&C forever!"

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:15 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

You guys can't figure out how to clean up Butyl - there's no way your going to 
get your heads around the Ebola crisis!

 

sam :-)



On 2014-10-16, at 6:53 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Josh,

 

Agree.  But why did they separate the two infected nurses, the ones that care 
for the ebola patient who died,  and send them to different hospitals for care? 
 That doubles the number of people exposed.  Maybe it's for training the 
hospital staff?

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 


  _  


From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: w...@wbryant.com  , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:50:00 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

Over the last 4 weeks I believe we are up to 6 total infected people 2 cured, 1 
dead.  By comparison 6 people per DAY die from electrocution.  We need to keep 
it in control but it is hardly a pandemic.  Oddly they are now choosing to 
transport an infected patient from Texas to Bethesda, MD.  Seems like maybe a 
questionable decision.

Josh
Solomons, MD

On Oct 16, 2014 7:36 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in the 
US and Canada.

Wal

-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com  


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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List]

Kevin you are right, I am just following the conversation. I promise not to…

 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario

Not for long…

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: October 16, 2014 11:50 PM
To: Stevan Plavsa; Burt Stratton via CnC-List; Stevan Plavsa; Burt Stratton via 
CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/ebola-outbreak/

 

Boatless Yanni.

 

Take a look at this brief documentary from Frontline. A government conspiracy? 
But I guess everything is... 

 

Let's stick to butyl and C&C fin keel conspiracies, which is perhaps, 
comprehendible for everybody on the list as Sam suggested. 

 

KD




 

Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493

 

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 8:34 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I don't think we're immune to having a really serious problem. I'm hopeful it 
doesn't come to that but I think there is some potential. 

 

To set the mood:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sYSyuuLk5g 

 

There are a lot of people flying into Toronto from all over the world, every 
day. 8.8 million international passengers flew into Pearson so far this year 
(that number does not include the more than 7 million Americans). From the WHO 
website: "The incubation period, that is, the time interval from infection with 
the virus to onset of symptoms is 2 to 21 days. Humans are not infectious until 
they develop symptoms."

 

Symptoms are flu like. It's flu season. Someone could get off a plane and 'get 
the flu' 2 weeks later and start showing symptoms at their workplace, the 
subway, you name it. The nurses that got sick, they were taking every 
precaution they could .. what chance does a person have on a crowded subway? 
http://mathbench.umd.edu/modules/popn-dynamics_exponential-growth/page15.htm

 

I don't think that's going to happen, I just think it's not out of the realm of 
possibility, so it should be taken seriously.

 

I think Brent got it right though, "C&C forever!"

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:15 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

You guys can't figure out how to clean up Butyl - there's no way your going to 
get your heads around the Ebola crisis!

 

sam :-)



On 2014-10-16, at 6:53 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Josh,

 

Agree.  But why did they separate the two infected nurses, the ones that care 
for the ebola patient who died,  and send them to different hospitals for care? 
 That doubles the number of people exposed.  Maybe it's for training the 
hospital staff?

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 


  _  


From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: w...@wbryant.com  , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:50:00 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

Over the last 4 weeks I believe we are up to 6 total infected people 2 cured, 1 
dead.  By comparison 6 people per DAY die from electrocution.  We need to keep 
it in control but it is hardly a pandemic.  Oddly they are now choosing to 
transport an infected patient from Texas to Bethesda, MD.  Seems like maybe a 
questionable decision.

Josh
Solomons, MD

On Oct 16, 2014 7:36 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in the 
US and Canada.

Wal

-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com  


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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

True. These are all preventable / voluntary conditions that are not
contagious. Ebola is scary. Ask anyone who lives near West Africa. The wee
ones and us old guys are most vulnerable. I am concerned. Not because of the
one or two cases but because of the inevitable spread of this incurable and
aggressive disease through this very mobile society.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Letsgo
Sailing via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 8:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

>From what I've read there are 30 people die from obesity every year,
8 from smoking, 15000 from alcohol, and I don'r know how many from
hunger and other reasons. I think it is another way to divert our minds from
politics and what has been done wrong and it is being done wrong everyday,
and stir some I don't know what. 

 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario

Not for long

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: October 16, 2014 7:50 PM
To: w...@wbryant.com; C&C List; w...@wbryant.com; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

Over the last 4 weeks I believe we are up to 6 total infected people 2
cured, 1 dead.  By comparison 6 people per DAY die from electrocution.  We
need to keep it in control but it is hardly a pandemic.  Oddly they are now
choosing to transport an infected patient from Texas to Bethesda, MD.  Seems
like maybe a questionable decision.

Josh
Solomons, MD

On Oct 16, 2014 7:36 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in
the US and Canada.

Wal

-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I think your tinfoil hat might be too tight.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Letsgo 
Sailing via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 5:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

I have reason to believe this is a population control intentional spread of “A” 
virus like they did when they created “AIDS”

Correct me if I am wrong.

 

Yanni  Boatk\less in Ontario

Not for long…

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: October 16, 2014 8:54 PM
To: Josh Muckley; CNC boat owners, cnc-list; Josh Muckley; CNC boat owners, 
cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

Hi Josh,

 

Agree.  But why did they separate the two infected nurses, the ones that care 
for the ebola patient who died,  and send them to different hospitals for care? 
 That doubles the number of people exposed.  Maybe it's for training the 
hospital staff?

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: w...@wbryant.com, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:50:00 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

Over the last 4 weeks I believe we are up to 6 total infected people 2 cured, 1 
dead.  By comparison 6 people per DAY die from electrocution.  We need to keep 
it in control but it is hardly a pandemic.  Oddly they are now choosing to 
transport an infected patient from Texas to Bethesda, MD.  Seems like maybe a 
questionable decision.

Josh
Solomons, MD

On Oct 16, 2014 7:36 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in the 
US and Canada.

Wal

-- 
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers

[Kim Brown via CnC-List]

Edd
I have the ATN version of the mast climber and find it works fine. A taut
line to climb on is important.  I find coming down is actually harder than
going up- you are tempted to take too big a step. Had the MastMate web
ladder on the last boat and it works but I found the steps uncomfortably far
apart (I have short legs-though they do reach the ground.) and the
webbing tended cut into my ankles.  Found that both get you high enough to
work on the masthead as needed. Like others I do prefer to just grind the
wife/daughter up in a chair. They both think it is neat but both are tool
challenged so once at the top they are only good for pretty pictures.


Kim Brown
Trust Me!!! 35-3


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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the 
Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr. 
Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I picked 
up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring launch and 
other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I just finished 
the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't put it down.  
Since I know little of the northern waters described in the book, I kept my 
laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they went, which made it 
even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was that suggested the book, 
I am now a Mowat fan!  
 

Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
To: Dennis C. ; 1 CnC List 
Sent: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 12:11 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl


Interlux Special Thinner 216 dissolves butyl beautifully and leaves no 
noticeable residue. I use it to prep many surfaces for painting or caulking. 



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



On 16 October 2014 20:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:



Goo Gone or similar.  Final clean with denatured alcohol.


BTW, denatured alcohol removes uncured, repeat uncured, 5200 well.



Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA




On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
 wrote:



  

But the question was "what would remove  butyl where it was not wanted".  
Agreed varsol and paint thinner  leave an 'oily film'.why wouldn't 
they, they are petroleum  based. 
  
  But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm  
your deck paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we  apply to our 
deck paint, annually!
  
  So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the  
butyl is removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can  tolerate 
acetone. 
  
  What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted  
butyl ?
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  
  
  
  On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote:


  
My experiance with varsol and paint thinneris that they leave residue 
that prevents proper sealing. 

--- Original Message ---

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
To: "Hoyt, Mike" ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

  
  

Mike:
  Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!
  
  
  
  
  On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:




The one thing I have always hated aboutButyl was trying to 
remove it from where it was notwanted.  Old fittings being 
rebidded that had been usingbutyl would always result in butyl 
stuck everywhere onnon skid and nearly impossible to remove.  
Is there somesort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia onPersistence

 
  
  

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

Never cry wolf !!

Tim

 Toronto

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 9:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks

Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the 
Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr. 
Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I picked 
up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring launch and 
other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I just finished 
the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't put it down.  
Since I know little of the northern waters described in the book, I kept my 
laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they went, which made it 
even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was that suggested the book, 
I am now a Mowat fan!

Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>; 1 CnC List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 12:11 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl
Interlux Special Thinner 216 dissolves butyl beautifully and leaves no 
noticeable residue. I use it to prep many surfaces for painting or caulking.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 16 October 2014 20:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Goo Gone or similar.  Final clean with denatured alcohol.
BTW, denatured alcohol removes uncured, repeat uncured, 5200 well.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
But the question was "what would remove butyl where it was not wanted".  Agreed 
varsol and paint thinner leave an 'oily film'.why wouldn't they, they are 
petroleum based.

But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm your deck 
paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we apply to our deck paint, 
annually!

So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the butyl is 
removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can tolerate acetone.

What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted butyl ?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote:
My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that 
prevents proper sealing.

--- Original Message ---

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 

Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
To: "Hoyt, Mike" , 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl
Mike:
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from 
where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using butyl 
would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly impossible 
to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of that?

Mike
Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence




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This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
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Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et r?ception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalit?s ?nonc?es dans l'avis publi? ? 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 

_

Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

The grey seas under, by Mowat. Can't recommend it highly enough

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Oct 17, 2014, at 09:36, Tim Sippel via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Never cry wolf !!
>  
> Tim
>  
>  Toronto
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
> Bush via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 9:32 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
>  
> Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the 
> Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr. 
> Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I 
> picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring 
> launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I 
> just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't 
> put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters described in the 
> book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they went, 
> which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was that 
> suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!  
>  
> Richard
> 1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> To: Dennis C. ; 1 CnC List 
> Sent: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 12:11 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl
> 
> Interlux Special Thinner 216 dissolves butyl beautifully and leaves no 
> noticeable residue. I use it to prep many surfaces for painting or caulking.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>  
> On 16 October 2014 20:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Goo Gone or similar.  Final clean with denatured alcohol.
> 
> BTW, denatured alcohol removes uncured, repeat uncured, 5200 well.
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> But the question was "what would remove butyl where it was not wanted".  
> Agreed varsol and paint thinner leave an 'oily film'.why wouldn't they, 
> they are petroleum based. 
> 
> But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm your deck 
> paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we apply to our deck paint, 
> annually!
> 
> So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the butyl is 
> removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can tolerate acetone. 
> 
> What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted butyl ?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote:
> My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that 
> prevents proper sealing.  
> 
> --- Original Message ---
> 
> From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
> Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
> To: "Hoyt, Mike" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Butyl
> 
> Mike:
> Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
> The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from 
> where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using 
> butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly 
> impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of 
> that?
>  
> Mike
> Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence
>  
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> at:
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> 
> 
>  
> 
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>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the 
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
> 
> 
> 
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
> fait strictement suivant les modalités énon

Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

And *A Whale for the Killing. *

The Boat that Wouldn't Float is one of my favourites.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 9:42 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The grey seas under, by Mowat. Can't recommend it highly enough
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Oct 17, 2014, at 09:36, Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>  Never cry wolf !!
>
>
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>  Toronto 
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Richard N. Bush via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, October 17, 2014 9:32 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
>
>
>
> Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading
> the Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of
> Mr. Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
> picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
> launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
> just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I
> couldn't put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters
> described in the book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of
> the places they went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to
> whomever it was that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!
>
>
>
> Richard
>
> 1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> To: Dennis C. ; 1 CnC List 
> Sent: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 12:11 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl
>
> Interlux Special Thinner 216 dissolves butyl beautifully and leaves no
> noticeable residue. I use it to prep many surfaces for painting or
> caulking.
>
>
>  Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
> On 16 October 2014 20:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Goo Gone or similar.  Final clean with denatured alcohol.
>
> BTW, denatured alcohol removes uncured, repeat uncured, 5200 well.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>   But the question was "what would remove butyl where it was not
> wanted".  Agreed varsol and paint thinner leave an 'oily film'.why
> wouldn't they, they are petroleum based.
>
> But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm your deck
> paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we apply to our deck
> paint, annually!
>
> So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the butyl is
> removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can tolerate acetone.
>
> What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted butyl ?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote:
>
>  My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue
> that prevents proper sealing.
>
> --- Original Message ---
>
> From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
> 
> Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
> To: "Hoyt, Mike"  ,
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Butyl
>
> Mike:
> Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!
>
>
>
>
> On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>
>  The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it
> from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been
> using butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and
> nearly impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that
> rids us of that?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers

[Joseph Sisson via CnC-List]

Edd,

I have rigged a mast self climber using rock climbing gear that I had on hand.
I used my rock climbing harness, three carabiners, two cords (about half the 
diameter of your spinnaker halyard) and the spinnaker halyard.
All the gear is rated for climbing so I was confident that my safety was not in 
jeopardy.
As a back up, I had a friend "belay" me by keeping tension on the main halyard 
that I rigged into the system.

You will have to experiment with the length of the two cords so that one will 
be attached to your harness (which you will sit down in to take the weight off 
your feet),
and one cord will extend down to your feet (which you will stand on to take the 
weight off your harness).
The cords are attached around both strands of your spinnaker halyard using a 
carabiner (one carabiner for each cord) and a bachmann hitch and one of the 
cords is attached to your harness and the other is rigged with loops for your 
feet to fit into.

The third carabiner is attached to the main halyard and clipped through the 
harness climbing loops (NOT THROUGH THE BELAY LOOP).

I start by sitting in the harness (now the bachmann hitch grabs tight to the 
spinnaker halyard and my weight is transferred to the spin hal).
I then bend my knees and lift up my feet  as close to my but as I can get them.
This will put slack in the cord with the foot loops and you then move the 
bachmann hitch up the spin hal as far as you can reach.
Now straighten your legs and stand on the foot loops and your weight will be 
supported by the bachmann hitch and cord to your feet.
This will put slack in the other cord to your harness so you move that bachmann 
hitch up the spin hal as far as you can reach.
Now sit into your harness and raise your feet to start the cycle over again.  
Repeat until you are as far up the mast as you want to go.

To come down reverse the process.

The advantage of this system is that it cost me nothing (I already had all the 
gear) and I did not have to purchase ascenders as the bachmann hitch worked 
just fine.
The other advantage is that the lack of ascenders used results in no damage to 
the spinnaker halyard  and no need to purchase an extra rope to climb the mast.

If you visit your local indoor climbing gym I am sure they will be able to 
advise you on the gear that you will need for this simple system.

In a pinch (emergency) you can use this system to climb the mast yourself, but 
always have someone belay you with the main halyard if possible.

Cheers,
Joseph Sisson
S/V Silent Runner
1975 C&C 35 MKII






On 2014-10-16, at 7:18 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I'm starting my list of
> projects -- One of which is some mast work. 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so,
> what did you use. 

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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I followed a similar thread on this list a number of years ago. I built a 
climbing harness from rock climbing equipment. It worked pretty good going up, 
but was a bit of a pain coming down. If someone wants it, it is available for 
the shipping - it  is two carabineers and some strapping. I have decided to let 
the boat yard with its crane and the little car the mechanic rides in do my 
mast top work from now on - I just don't need to work that hard (and the boat 
partner - ex admiral pays her half).

Gary (Maryland)
gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
  To: Josh Muckley ; CnC CnC discussion list 
  Cc: Travis 
  Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 8:54 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?


  Mack Sails has one I am thinking of getting.  It is shown in the installation 
video for their Mackpack (which I am getting). They don’t advertise them, but I 
was told they do make them up and sell them for people.   You can see it in use 
about 4.5 minutes in to the video.  I am sure it would take me a lot longer to 
go up, but it looks easy to use.  Still don’t know the cost (are you listening, 
Travis?) Dave


  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3RT3iajT-E&list=FLzBlwDs4NZ1W1NImTfRSC-w


  On Oct 16, 2014, at 8:39 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Here's a couple of links to spring off of for ascender climbing.  The foot 
ascenders look promissing.

A waste strap/line can also be passed around the mast and both ends 
attached to the harness (one end on a carabiner for fast passing of 
obstructions).  This is added safety to prevent accidentally twisting upside 
down and you slipping out of the harness or chair.  This is one reason I prefer 
a harness.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ascender+climbing&oq=ascender

http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ascender_(climbing)

http://youtube.com/watch?v=2LK20hvHQyA

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/ascender-safety-101


Josh


On Oct 16, 2014 7:58 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  Listers,


  Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of 
projects -- One of which is some mast work. 


  Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if 
so, what did you use. 


  There’s an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so 
it’s on my mind.


  And no, the transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the mast. 




  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log



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  Aries
  1990 C&C 34+
  New London, CT

   




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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Sorry, I used the wrong terminology - 'ascenders'  - and I got mine from REI.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 11:40 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?


  I just made such an arrangement similar to what Josh described.  Bought a 
left and right hand ascender, and put a toe loop on each.  Used one halyard to 
pull up a line with a knot in the middle to the top of the mast, and tied off 
the lower end of each part, tightly, at the deck.  Then put one ascender/toe 
loop on each part of the line.  Took a second halyard to a bosun's chair, with 
a short loop to a climbing harness as a safety.  Was then easy to use both 
hands and feet to pull up on the ascenders/foot loops, while my wife took the 
slack up on the chair halyard using a winch.  Then I could sit back on the 
chair while I slid the ascenders/toe loops higher on the two parts, and repeat. 
 The nice part was that coming down, I took the ascenders off and she just 
payed out the chair on the winch, and the really nice part was that I could get 
my head above the top of mast by standing on the toe loops.

  One worthwhile addition was to put a small carabiner in each toe loop around 
the side lines, keeps the toe loops under the ascenders.

  I'm going to try this weekend to climb without the chair, it would mean 
alternately lifting one side at a time, and will still want the second line a a 
safety/belay to the harness.

  The price was about $70 each for the ascenders (new at REI), $60 for the 
harness and about $30 for the toe loops.

  Neil Gallagher
  Weatherly, 35-1
  Glen Cove, NY



  On 10/16/2014 8:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

The ATN top climmer has worked pretty well for me but I would not buy one.  
The TC is simply two Gibbs ascenders attached custom bosun's chair and 60' or 
70' of 1/2" rope.

They arrangement of the ascenders is such that the chair is attached to the 
top on and a foot strap is attached to the bottom one.  Standing up on the foot 
straps allows you to raise the upper ascender which brings the chair tight to 
your butt.  Sit down in the chair and now you can bend your knees to raise the 
lower ascender.  You inchworm your way up the rope.  The rope that was tied to 
the mast collar on deck and winched taught to the top of the mast.  One could 
safely use a halyard pull the rope tight.  Tight is key.  No stretch rope is 
also key.

I would look to MAKE a similar system but using rock climbing ascenders 
(gibbs or otherwise).  I would also use a rock climbing harness as a primary 
and maybe take a comfortable bosun's chair of choice to the top IF I was going 
to be there for more than 10 min.  The ascenders cost $30-50.  Rope $50-70.  
Harness $50-100.  Gear can be found at EMS.com or instore.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 16, 2014 7:58 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  Listers, 


  Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I'm starting my list of 
projects -- One of which is some mast work. 


  Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if 
so, what did you use. 


  There's an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so 
it's on my mind.


  And no, the transporter can't materialize me at the top of the mast. 




  All the best,


  Edd




  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log



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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I built one of these but using starboard instead of marine ply.  I also had
a bigger eye at the bottom to guide the line easier.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo167/knuterikt/mastClimber-2.jpg

 

I ascended once to the top this year, and few times to the 1st spreader.  My
girlfriend was there to belay the safety halyard for the way up and down.
But I was able to pull my weight without a problem.  It takes a bit getting
used to and always have a safety line.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

 

Listers,

 

Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I'm starting my
list of projects -- One of which is some mast work. 

 

Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber,
and, if so, what did you use. 

 

There's an article about it in the latest issue of Practical
Sailor, so it's on my mind.

 

And no, the transporter can't materialize me at the top of the
mast. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 

 

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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the 
Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr. 
Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I picked 
up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring launch and 
other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I just finished 
the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't put it down.  
Since I know little of the northern waters described in the book, I kept my 
laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they went, which made it 
even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was that suggested the book, 
I am now a Mowat fan!

Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>; 1 CnC List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 12:11 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl

Interlux Special Thinner 216 dissolves butyl beautifully and leaves no 
noticeable residue. I use it to prep many surfaces for painting or caulking.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 16 October 2014 20:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Goo Gone or similar.  Final clean with denatured alcohol.

BTW, denatured alcohol removes uncured, repeat uncured, 5200 well.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
But the question was "what would remove butyl where it was not wanted".  Agreed 
varsol and paint thinner leave an 'oily film'.why wouldn't they, they are 
petroleum based.

But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm your deck 
paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we apply to our deck paint, 
annually!

So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the butyl is 
removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can tolerate acetone.

What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted butyl ?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote:
My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that 
prevents proper sealing.

--- Original Message ---

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 

Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
To: "Hoyt, Mike" , 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

Mike:
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from 
where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using butyl 
would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly impossible 
to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of that?

Mike
Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence




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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks

[Robert Mazza via CnC-List]

One of his best books was "And No Birds Sang", the story of his experience
fighting with the Hasty Ps of the Canadian Army in Italy in WWII. He landed
in Sicily and fought all the way up to Ortona, where he finally succumbed
to battle fatigue. It took him a long time to decide to write that book. It
was published in 1979. His father's boat, and the boat that he grew up with
in Hastings and Patricia Counties in the Bay of Quinte is part of the
collection of the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston, and has
been recently restored.

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 10:26 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>   Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading
> the Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of
> Mr. Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
> picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
> launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
> just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I
> couldn't put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters
> described in the book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of
> the places they went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to
> whomever it was that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!
>
>  Richard
> 1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
>  Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> To: Dennis C. ; 1 CnC List 
> Sent: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 12:11 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl
>
>  Interlux Special Thinner 216 dissolves butyl beautifully and leaves no
> noticeable residue. I use it to prep many surfaces for painting or
> caulking.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 16 October 2014 20:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>>   Goo Gone or similar.  Final clean with denatured alcohol.
>>
>>  BTW, denatured alcohol removes uncured, repeat uncured, 5200 well.
>>
>>  Dennis C.
>>  Touche' 35-1 #83
>>  Mandeville, LA
>>
>>  On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>   But the question was "what would remove butyl where it was not
>>> wanted".  Agreed varsol and paint thinner leave an 'oily film'.why
>>> wouldn't they, they are petroleum based.
>>>
>>> But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm your
>>> deck paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we apply to our deck
>>> paint, annually!
>>>
>>> So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the butyl
>>> is removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can tolerate acetone.
>>>
>>> What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted butyl ?
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue
>>> that prevents proper sealing.
>>>
>>> --- Original Message ---
>>>
>>> From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
>>> 
>>> Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
>>> To: "Hoyt, Mike"  ,
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Butyl
>>>
>>>  Mike:
>>> Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>> Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>>  The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it
>>> from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been
>>> using butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and
>>> nearly impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that
>>> rids us of that?
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>
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>>> page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Please post pictures of the blooper.

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 4:49 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We will be racing on Sunday in Branford, CT.  The "Around the Bouys"
> Wednesday night series transitions to Sundays between Labor Day and end of
> October .  The course is normally set around a few nearby government marks,
> but this week is slightly different with a course out around Faulkner's
> Island (about 10nm) away and back.  The forecast is for ~50 degrees, no
> rain, 20kn - downwind on the way out. I'm planning to break the blooper out
> for the first time since I've owned Mojito as we have a few experienced
> people on board and a long leg to play with it.
>
> It's a very casual race so any other C&C's around Branford would be very
> welcome if they just turn up and announce themselves on Ch 68.  Warning
> signal is 11:00am at Cow & Calf just outside the harbor.
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>
> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  Anyone headed out? It looks like we’ll have frontal passage here
>> Saturday night, so the plan is to go to Baltimore and then sail home with
>> 15 knots on the stern Sunday. We were going to go to Saint Michaels, but
>> the forecast is uphill both ways and I don’t trust Kent Narrows with a
>> strong northerly.
>>
>>
>>
>> *Joe Della Barba*
>>
>> *Coquina*
>>
>> *C&C 35*
>>
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>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

I have a similar system except I use a prussic loop rather than the bachman, 
and then two climbing tapes to go from loop to harness or feet, I think they 
are more secure and they work in both directions should you find yourself 
upside down for some reason.

- Original Message -
From: "Joseph Sisson via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:02:35 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers


Edd, 


I have rigged a mast self climber using rock climbing gear that I had on hand. 
I used my rock climbing harness, three carabiners, two cords (about half the 
diameter of your spinnaker halyard) and the spinnaker halyard. 
All the gear is rated for climbing so I was confident that my safety was not in 
jeopardy. 
As a back up, I had a friend "belay" me by keeping tension on the main halyard 
that I rigged into the system. 


You will have to experiment with the length of the two cords so that one will 
be attached to your harness (which you will sit down in to take the weight off 
your feet), 
and one cord will extend down to your feet (which you will stand on to take the 
weight off your harness). 
The cords are attached around both strands of your spinnaker halyard using a 
carabiner (one carabiner for each cord) and a bachmann hitch and one of the 
cords is attached to your harness and the other is rigged with loops for your 
feet to fit into. 


The third carabiner is attached to the main halyard and clipped through the 
harness climbing loops (NOT THROUGH THE BELAY LOOP). 


I start by sitting in the harness (now the bachmann hitch grabs tight to the 
spinnaker halyard and my weight is transferred to the spin hal). 
I then bend my knees and lift up my feet  as close to my but as I can get them. 
This will put slack in the cord with the foot loops and you then move the 
bachmann hitch up the spin hal as far as you can reach. 
Now straighten your legs and stand on the foot loops and your weight will be 
supported by the bachmann hitch and cord to your feet. 
This will put slack in the other cord to your harness so you move that bachmann 
hitch up the spin hal as far as you can reach. 
Now sit into your harness and raise your feet to start the cycle over again.  
Repeat until you are as far up the mast as you want to go. 


To come down reverse the process. 


The advantage of this system is that it cost me nothing (I already had all the 
gear) and I did not have to purchase ascenders as the bachmann hitch worked 
just fine. 
The other advantage is that the lack of ascenders used results in no damage to 
the spinnaker halyard  and no need to purchase an extra rope to climb the mast. 


If you visit your local indoor climbing gym I am sure they will be able to 
advise you on the gear that you will need for this simple system. 


In a pinch (emergency) you can use this system to climb the mast yourself, but 
always have someone belay you with the main halyard if possible. 


Cheers, 
Joseph Sisson 
S/V Silent Runner 
1975 C&C 35 MKII 













On 2014-10-16, at 7:18 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: 


Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I'm starting my list of 
projects -- One of which is some mast work.   



Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so, 
what did you use.   


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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[dwight via CnC-List]

Interlux Special Thinner 216 smells just like xylene, availble from most
paint stores for 1/3 the price.xylene works  

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
via CnC-List
Sent: October 17, 2014 1:11 AM
To: Dennis C.; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl

 

Interlux Special Thinner 216 dissolves butyl beautifully and leaves no
noticeable residue. I use it to prep many surfaces for painting or caulking.





Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 16 October 2014 20:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

Goo Gone or similar.  Final clean with denatured alcohol.

BTW, denatured alcohol removes uncured, repeat uncured, 5200 well.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List
 wrote:

But the question was "what would remove butyl where it was not wanted".
Agreed varsol and paint thinner leave an 'oily film'.why wouldn't they,
they are petroleum based. 

But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm your deck
paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we apply to our deck paint,
annually!

So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the butyl is
removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can tolerate acetone. 

What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted butyl ?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote:

My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that
prevents proper sealing.  

--- Original Message ---

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List"  

Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
To: "Hoyt, Mike"   ,
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl

Mike:
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from
where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using
butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly
impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of
that?

 

Mike

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence

 

 

 

 

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  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4040/8356 - Release Date: 10/09/14
Internal Virus Database is out of date.

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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Yanni,

looking at cartoons is not really reading :)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10678811_947676645253347_5299347798631232381_n.jpg?oh=c0673d63d85a52310d1f0f68c7bcaf82&oe=54BAFD3B&__gda__=1420776167_2dbbff97e2098d371df4cc407ed007e8


To keep this sailing related, this guy looks like one of AG's cockpit crew.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Wet Coast, Colony of V.I., kinda damp right now



At 05:02 PM 16/10/2014, you wrote:

From what I've read there are 30 people die from obesity every 
year, 8 from smoking, 15000 from alcohol, and I don'r know how 
many from hunger and other reasons. I think it is another way to 
divert our minds from politics and what has been done wrong and it 
is being done wrong everyday, and stir some I don't know what.


Yanni Boatless in Ontario
Not for long

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Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Fall series racing out of Schooner Cove this Sunday.

I hope the gale warning forecast will ease up a 
bit for Sunday morning. The little boats don't 
like to go out if it's blowing over 20 knots at 
the start. It will be a bit damp so I better dig out the woolies.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:07 AM 16/10/2014, you wrote:

Rain rain rain rain rain rain rain.

That's our forecast for the next 7 days. We 
might get a bit of a break today so this may be 
the day I go out and take all the summer cruising gear off.
While a little depressing, the good side of this 
is that the boat sails much better without all that crap on it.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 16 October 2014 07:48, Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Possible day sail Saturday, then frostbiting out of West River Sunday.Â

Enjoy Charm City!

Joel

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Anyone headed out? It looks like we’ll have 
frontal passage here Saturday night, so the plan 
is to go to Baltimore and then sail home with 15 
knots on the stern Sunday. We were going to go 
to Saint Michaels, but the forecast is uphill 
both ways and I don’t trust Kent Narrows with a strong northerly.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35
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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The best ascenders are made for speleologists (cave climbers). Buy those at any 
place that sells climbing gear (e.g. MEC.ca). Petzl initially was dealing in 
that kind of gear (now they have just about anything climbing related). I would 
look at Petzl or Grivel (around $70).

I trust the climbing gear much more than anything else as climbers use that 
gear all the time (sailors only occasionally and with great reluctance).

If you want some extra ease in climbing up or want to have something to stand 
up on, try a string of these: 
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/big-wall-climbing/alpine-aiders-BD390050ALL1.html
 (Black Diamond Climbing Aider). It is not that much different than climbing 
the mast steps.

If you prefer to live to tell the story, always use a second line for safety 
(one to hang on, one spare). If you don’t, make sure that you have a video 
camera filming the story and have someone to post it to Darwin Awards.

Marek
s/v “Legato” (mast unstepped, waiting for haulout)
in Ottawa

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

Listers, 

Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of projects 
-- One of which is some mast work. 

Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so, 
what did you use. 

There’s an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so it’s on 
my mind.

And no, the transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the mast. 




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




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Stus-List drive strut

[Douglas via CnC-List]

I had my 38 hauled out to have some glass work done on the knife edge of the
transom, because some moron bumped it (300-ft space between docks).
While it was up on sticks I figured I get some work done, like zincs, grease
the maxi prop, etc.
I notice something with my strut.
I have moisture around the base of the strut, in the form of a square. 
Strut seems to be tight, to the untrained eye.
I understand after they are installed (bolted up) they are glazed in, using
epoxy or fairing or a combination, possibly even glassed in (rare).
The cause can be vibration from misalignment, worn cutlass bearing or loose
bolts or again any combination.
Anyone ever have this issue and have some suggestions.
I believe the filler to smooth it out is cracked.
Thanks
Larry

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 9:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 48

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Mast Self-Climbers? (Petar Horvatic)
   2. Re:  Farley Mowat and thanks (Paul Fountain)
   3. Re:  Farley Mowat and thanks (Robert Mazza)
   4. Re:  sailing this weekend (Eric Baumes)
   5. Re:  Mast Self-Climbers (Paul Baker)
   6. Re:  Butyl (dwight)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 10:19:12 -0400
From: "Petar Horvatic" 
To: "'Edd Schillay'" ,   
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
Message-ID: <01d301cfea15$5463c070$fd2b4150$@com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I built one of these but using starboard instead of marine ply.  I also had
a bigger eye at the bottom to guide the line easier.

http://i372.photobucket.com/albums/oo167/knuterikt/mastClimber-2.jpg

 

I ascended once to the top this year, and few times to the 1st spreader.  My
girlfriend was there to belay the safety halyard for the way up and down.
But I was able to pull my weight without a problem.  It takes a bit getting
used to and always have a safety line.

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

 

Listers,

 

Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I'm starting my
list of projects -- One of which is some mast work. 

 

Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber,
and, if so, what did you use. 

 

There's an article about it in the latest issue of Practical
Sailor, so it's on my mind.

 

And no, the transporter can't materialize me at the top of the
mast. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
<http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> 

 

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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 14:26:21 +
From: Paul Fountain 
To: "Richard N. Bush" , ""

Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the
Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr.
Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't
put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters described in the
book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they
went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it

Re: Stus-List drive strut

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Larry - after this much time it could be anything.  I've replaced my 
filler twice.  It could be simple marine putty, fairing compound, etc.  
You can pick at it and see. The strut is bolted into a recess and 
puttied fair.  The last time I did it, I used fiber reinforced 
vinylester putty from Everlast, and that seems to be holding up really 
well.


As to why it's failing, it could just be age.  Or it could be vibration 
from a loose cutlass bearing, or you might have wrapped something around 
the prop without noticing.  Unless there's water coming inside the boat 
it's just superficial.


Wal

you wrote:

I understand after they are installed (bolted up) they are glazed in, using
epoxy or fairing or a combination, possibly even glassed in (rare).



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Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the Dripless PYI 
shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop shaft so the bellows 
could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have never done this, and with the 
recent discussion about the set screws holding the rotor in place on the prop 
shaft, I wonder if it is worth it.  Would be interested in what other PYI users 
do.  I did replace the entire unit last winter; at full engine RPM I had 
noticed water spraying out between the rotor and the carbon flange, perhaps 
because the thrust of the prop pushed the shaft forward until the rotor did not 
make good contact with the flange.  When I unclamped the rotor and slid it 
forward to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and there were some small pits 
in the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI recommended replacing the entire 
unit, which I did, and it has worked fine this summer.  But it had worked 
flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat, and looked like it had been
  installed well before that, without doing anything to winterize it - just 
checking to make sure it was not leaking at the beginning of each season.  So 
what's the feeling about following PS's suggestion? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Sounds like a lot of work just to get access to it.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 2:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the
Dripless PYI shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop
shaft so the bellows could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have
never done this, and with the recent discussion about the set screws
holding the rotor in place on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth
it.  Would be interested in what other PYI users do.  I did replace the
entire unit last winter; at full engine RPM I had noticed water spraying
out between the rotor and the carbon flange, perhaps because the thrust
of the prop pushed the shaft forward until the rotor did not make good
contact with the flange.  When I unclamped the rotor and slid it forward
to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and there were some small pits in
the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI recommended replacing the entire
unit, which I did, and it has worked fine this summer.  But it had
worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat, and looked like it
had been installed well before that, without doing anything to winterize
it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at the beginning of
each season.  So what's the feeling about following PS's suggestion? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I'd call or email Fred at PYI.  He also has a lot of YouTube videos.

Joel

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 1:24 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds like a lot of work just to get access to it.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
> Frank via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 2:22 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal
>
> Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the
> Dripless PYI shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop
> shaft so the bellows could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have
> never done this, and with the recent discussion about the set screws
> holding the rotor in place on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth
> it.  Would be interested in what other PYI users do.  I did replace the
> entire unit last winter; at full engine RPM I had noticed water spraying
> out between the rotor and the carbon flange, perhaps because the thrust
> of the prop pushed the shaft forward until the rotor did not make good
> contact with the flange.  When I unclamped the rotor and slid it forward
> to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and there were some small pits in
> the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI recommended replacing the entire
> unit, which I did, and it has worked fine this summer.  But it had
> worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat, and looked like it
> had been installed well before that, without doing anything to winterize
> it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at the beginning of
> each season.  So what's the feeling about following PS's suggestion?
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
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>
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Bermuda Hurricane Gonzalo

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

For now, there is live video of the Naval dock:

http://portbermudawebcam.com/

I wish them well!

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List drive strut

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Been there, done that several haulouts.  The fairing compound in the gap
between the strut base and the strut recess is subject to cracking due to
vibration of the drive train. If your shaft is aligned and your prop is in
balance, then I tend to believe it is purely cosmetic IF your strut
fasteners are tight.  Grind out the compound a bit and put it some new
compound, fair it, paint it and splash.

Chances are you may see it again next haulout.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 11:30 AM, Douglas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had my 38 hauled out to have some glass work done on the knife edge of
> the
> transom, because some moron bumped it (300-ft space between docks).
> While it was up on sticks I figured I get some work done, like zincs,
> grease
> the maxi prop, etc.
> I notice something with my strut.
> I have moisture around the base of the strut, in the form of a square.
> Strut seems to be tight, to the untrained eye.
> I understand after they are installed (bolted up) they are glazed in, using
> epoxy or fairing or a combination, possibly even glassed in (rare).
> The cause can be vibration from misalignment, worn cutlass bearing or loose
> bolts or again any combination.
> Anyone ever have this issue and have some suggestions.
> I believe the filler to smooth it out is cracked.
> Thanks
> Larry
>
>
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Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[LKL Architects via CnC-List]

LkL
 

Hello Listers,



While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand 250 
lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the proper 
leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and maybe also with 
a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge walls to move the 
torque wrench.



Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then 
re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his suggestion.



I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.



Lloyd Lippe

Finesse

LF39

 

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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I wonder if your pits were from not using it and then oxidation or
electrolysis cause carbon material to deteriorate.  The more you use it the
better the seal is as the carbon polishes itself out.  I had leakage when my
prop coupling was badly miss-aligned but once I fixed that, leakage went
away.  Don't forget to replace set screws every time you loosen them. I
installed mine new in 2004.  Had it out on 4-5 occasions at which time I
would soak everything in a tupperware container with WD40 for few days then
wipe it clean.  

Then I read this article.  
http://www.passagemaker.com/articles/technical/running-gear/dripless-shaft-s
eals/
  
And I realized that I was probably lucky that I never had a problem.  I am
due for whatever overhaul kit comes for it.  They don't specify the size and
thread on the set screw.  I have ordered a 25 pack from mcmaster 5/16"-18 in
316SS, with a point set.  I am yet to see how they fit.  


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the Dripless
PYI shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop shaft so the
bellows could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have never done this, and
with the recent discussion about the set screws holding the rotor in place
on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth it.  Would be interested in what
other PYI users do.  I did replace the entire unit last winter; at full
engine RPM I had noticed water spraying out between the rotor and the carbon
flange, perhaps because the thrust of the prop pushed the shaft forward
until the rotor did not make good contact with the flange.  When I unclamped
the rotor and slid it forward to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and
there were some small pits in the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI
recommended replacing the entire unit, which I did, and it has worked fine
this summer.  But it had worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat,
and looked like it had been installed well before that, without doing
anything to winterize it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at
the beginning of each season.  So what's the feeling about following PS's
suggestion? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

looks like 16 to 18 knt winds with 24 knt gust and 7' seas tomorrow up here.  
I'm holding off for colder and calmer seas of 4' on Sunday...  LOL Coming out 
of and getting back into the westport river can be pretty exciting in those 
kind of seas! Anyone want some crew in in Narragansett bay??  LOL Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
To: Jim Watts ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 09:06:38 -0700


 Fall series racing out of Schooner Cove this Sunday. 

 I hope the gale warning forecast will ease up a bit for Sunday morning. The 
little boats don't like to go out if it's blowing over 20 knots at the start. 
It will be a bit damp so I better dig out the woolies.

 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1

 At 09:07 AM 16/10/2014, you wrote:
Rain rain rain rain rain rain rain.

 That's our forecast for the next 7 days. We might get a bit of a break today 
so this may be the day I go out and take all the summer cruising gear off. 
 While a little depressing, the good side of this is that the boat sails much 
better without all that crap on it. 

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 C&C 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

 On 16 October 2014 07:48, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:
Possible day sail Saturday, then frostbiting out of West River Sunday.� 

Enjoy Charm City!

Joel

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Anyone headed out? It looks like we’ll have frontal passage here Saturday 
night, so the plan is to go to Baltimore and then sail home with 15 knots on 
the stern Sunday. We were going to go to Saint Michaels, but the forecast is 
uphill both ways and I don’t trust Kent Narrows with a strong northerly.
 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina
 C&C 35___
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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Check your local rental stores, someone may be able to rent you a torque
multiplier.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623947_200623947



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 17 October 2014 11:01, LKL Architects via CnC-List  wrote:

>
>
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
>
>
> While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand
> 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the
> proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and
> maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge
> walls to move the torque wrench.
>
>
>
> Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then
> re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his
> suggestion.
>
>
>
> I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.
>
>
>
> Lloyd Lippe
>
> Finesse
>
> LF39
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List drive strut

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Douglas:

You already have had good advice from the C&C listers.  No new advice 
from me but here is what we did with the same situation you are 
experiencing.


When we bought our boat in 2006, the strut base had a fine hairline 
crack.  We decided to dig out all the filler, mainly to check the 
nuts/bolts and related structure holding the 'strut'. All was 
O.Kbut now we know.the hairline crack was probably caused by 
vibration from a worn cutlass bearing..no big dealwe replaced 
the cutlass bearing and refilled the strut base with I think, polyester 
resinif I can remember it took two litre cans I bought at Canadian 
Tire for $10 per litre versus $50 per litre at the Binnacle.exact 
same resin made by 3Mone in a red label for $10 and the other in a 
green labeled can for $50.  Nine seasons later, still no new hairline 
cracks.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/10/17 1:30 PM, Douglas via CnC-List wrote:

I had my 38 hauled out to have some glass work done on the knife edge of the
transom, because some moron bumped it (300-ft space between docks).
While it was up on sticks I figured I get some work done, like zincs, grease
the maxi prop, etc.
I notice something with my strut.
I have moisture around the base of the strut, in the form of a square.
Strut seems to be tight, to the untrained eye.
I understand after they are installed (bolted up) they are glazed in, using
epoxy or fairing or a combination, possibly even glassed in (rare).
The cause can be vibration from misalignment, worn cutlass bearing or loose
bolts or again any combination.
Anyone ever have this issue and have some suggestions.
I believe the filler to smooth it out is cracked.
Thanks
Larry





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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would not do it, because you would have to get new set screws and reset it 
in the spring. I am leaving mine intact.


Marek (in Ottawa)

-Original Message- 
From: Eric Frank via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 1:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the Dripless 
PYI shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop shaft so the 
bellows could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have never done this, and 
with the recent discussion about the set screws holding the rotor in place 
on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth it.  Would be interested in what 
other PYI users do.  I did replace the entire unit last winter; at full 
engine RPM I had noticed water spraying out between the rotor and the carbon 
flange, perhaps because the thrust of the prop pushed the shaft forward 
until the rotor did not make good contact with the flange.  When I unclamped 
the rotor and slid it forward to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and 
there were some small pits in the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI 
recommended replacing the entire unit, which I did, and it has worked fine 
this summer.  But it had worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat, 
and looked like it had been installed well before that, without doing 
anything to winterize it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at 
the beginning of each season.  So what's the feeling about following PS's 
suggestion?


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I second following PYI’s recommendations for maintenance and winterizing.

I replaced Calypso’s bellows and carbon rotor after 8 years.  The SS rotor was 
fine with a little cleaning.  I had the PYI instruction sheet in hand as I set 
the bellows compression and tightened the SS rotor in place.

For the past 29 years of owning boats with PYI Shaft Seals installed I have not 
de-commissioned the shaft seal over winter.  We often use the boat all year, 
but only once or twice a month between December and March. (This year we will 
run the engine in place as the deck restoration work shelter is still in place.)

After a long lay up, I would certainly inspect the bellows and rotors, burp the 
bellows and rotate by hand the seal interface (to be sure the rotors have not 
been bonded together), and check the tightness of the hose clamps.  I do rinse 
the bellows and rotor with fresh water from time to time to prevent salt build 
up.

The one major failure of a bellows that I have read about was caused by lack of 
maintenance and use.  IIRC the boat had sat idle for year(s?) and the rotors 
bonded together.  When the engine was put in gear the shaft rotation was fully 
transmitted to the bellows resulting in a tear.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 10:29 AM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

I'd call or email Fred at PYI.  He also has a lot of YouTube videos.

Joel

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 1:24 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Sounds like a lot of work just to get access to it.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Eric
Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 2:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the
Dripless PYI shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop
shaft so the bellows could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have
never done this, and with the recent discussion about the set screws
holding the rotor in place on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth
it.  Would be interested in what other PYI users do.  I did replace the
entire unit last winter; at full engine RPM I had noticed water spraying
out between the rotor and the carbon flange, perhaps because the thrust
of the prop pushed the shaft forward until the rotor did not make good
contact with the flange.  When I unclamped the rotor and slid it forward
to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and there were some small pits in
the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI recommended replacing the entire
unit, which I did, and it has worked fine this summer.  But it had
worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat, and looked like it
had been installed well before that, without doing anything to winterize
it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at the beginning of
each season.  So what's the feeling about following PS's suggestion?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

Farley Mowat also had the distinction of being banned from the U.S.
He was getting on a plane in Toronto for a book tour in the U.S. when he was
told
he wasn¹t allowed in. He was on a list of Anarchists, Communists, and other
ne¹er do wells.
Not a book, but has anyone seen the sailing disaster film, All Is Lost, with
Robert Redford?
I had high expectations, but was pretty disappointed.
Ed


From: Paul Fountain 
To: "Richard N. Bush" , ""

Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the
Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr.
Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't
put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters described in the
book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they
went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was
that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!

Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I don't touch mine.

Week/old/worn engine mounts can allow a week/old/worn/poorly adjusted
bellows to leak especially at high thrust periods (Tied to the dock,
towing, or changing from full reverse to full ahead).

You can often times finish the season or even extend a season or two by
simply snugging up on the SS collar but you are on borrowed time and the
interest rate could be very high.

During the launch you should burp the collar to ensure no air is trapped.
The carbon and stainless need a tiny bit of water to cool and lubricate.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 17, 2014 1:22 PM, "Eric Frank via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the Dripless
> PYI shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop shaft so the
> bellows could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have never done this,
> and with the recent discussion about the set screws holding the rotor in
> place on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth it.  Would be interested
> in what other PYI users do.  I did replace the entire unit last winter; at
> full engine RPM I had noticed water spraying out between the rotor and the
> carbon flange, perhaps because the thrust of the prop pushed the shaft
> forward until the rotor did not make good contact with the flange.  When I
> unclamped the rotor and slid it forward to inspect, the bellows was very
> stiff and there were some small pits in the carbon and the rotor surfaces.
> PYI recommended replacing the entire unit, which I did, and it has worked
> fine this summer.  But it had worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the
> boat, and looked like it had been installed well before that, without doing
> anything to winterize it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at
> the beginning of each season.  So what's the feeling about following PS's
> suggestion?
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Lloyd,

Sounds like you have a good mechanic.
Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off & 
re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry 
& clean or lubricated?


We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would 
check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight 
on first go, but stop at movement.


But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs.

I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use 
an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that 
torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension).


KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote:


Hello Listers,

While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and 
understand 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very 
difficult to get the proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever 
used a small jack and maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side 
pressure against the bilge walls to move the torque wrench.


Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then 
re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his suggestion.


I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.

Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
LF39

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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I just watched that movie a couple of weeks ago.I didn't want to turn it off... 
I found myself asking, "WTF is he doing now?" a lot. found out it was a Cal 39 
that he was on.  They basically bought and destroyed 3 of them for the movie. 
Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 14:36:18 -0400

Farley Mowat also had the distinction of being banned from the U.S.
 He was getting on a plane in Toronto for a book tour in the U.S. when he was 
told
 he wasn’t allowed in. He was on a list of Anarchists, Communists, and 
other ne’er do wells.
 Not a book, but has anyone seen the sailing disaster film, All Is Lost, with 
Robert Redford?
 I had high expectations, but was pretty disappointed.
 Ed
 
 
 From: Paul Fountain 
 To: "Richard N. Bush" , ""
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
 Message-ID: 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
 
 Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
 Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the
 Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr.
 Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
 picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
 launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
 just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't
 put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters described in the
 book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they
 went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was
 that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!
 
 Richard
 1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
 Richard N. Bush
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
 502-584-7255
 
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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I advocate making your own climbing system but for the record, the ATN
system uses Gibbs ascenders.  They are full capture ascenders that cannot
come off and have a good record in the climbing and fire & rescue
communities.

Some ascenders are designed to attach at a mid point of the rope these can
come off if care is not taken.  If one of these is being considered then
one should ensure that it is also the type refered to as "prusik minding".
It will have a fair lead around the rope to push a prusik up the rope in
front of the ascender.  It will also have a means of attaching the prusik
to the ascender.  It could be a hole or just simply a closed handle, a
handle carabiner combo, or a clip.

Josh
On Oct 17, 2014 12:17 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>   The best ascenders are made for speleologists (cave climbers). Buy
> those at any place that sells climbing gear (e.g. MEC.ca). Petzl initially
> was dealing in that kind of gear (now they have just about anything
> climbing related). I would look at Petzl or Grivel (around $70).
>
> I trust the climbing gear much more than anything else as climbers use
> that gear all the time (sailors only occasionally and with great
> reluctance).
>
> If you want some extra ease in climbing up or want to have something to
> stand up on, try a string of these:
> http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/big-wall-climbing/alpine-aiders-BD390050ALL1.html
> (Black Diamond Climbing Aider). It is not that much different than climbing
> the mast steps.
>
> If you prefer to live to tell the story, always use a second line for
> safety (one to hang on, one spare). If you don't, make sure that you have a
> video camera filming the story and have someone to post it to Darwin Awards.
>
> Marek
> s/v "Legato" (mast unstepped, waiting for haulout)
> in Ottawa
>
>  *From:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:58 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
>
> Listers,
>
> Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I'm starting my list of
> projects -- One of which is some mast work.
>
> Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if
> so, what did you use.
>
> There's an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so
> it's on my mind.
>
> And no, the transporter can't materialize me at the top of the mast.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> --
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Re: Stus-List Bermuda Hurricane Gonzalo

[Ebay via CnC-List]

Yikes.  This is not going to be pretty.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 17, 2014, at 1:44 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> For now, there is live video of the Naval dock:
> 
> http://portbermudawebcam.com/
> 
> I wish them well!
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

This article describes what they did to make it look as real as it did. I
think
I would have enjoyed it more on the big screen. I watched it on a 37² TV.
One of the scenes that stood out was when the boat capsized and Redford is
underwater looking up at the upside down
cockpit. He swims straight up into the cockpit just as the boat does another
180, and he¹s back in the upright cockpit
above water.
Ed

http://www.sailingworld.com/all-lost-hollywood



From: Danny Haughey 
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 18:49:26 GMT
To: , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

I just watched that movie a couple of weeks ago.
I didn't want to turn it off...
 
I found myself asking, "WTF is he doing now?" a lot.
 
found out it was a Cal 39 that he was on.  They basically bought and
destroyed 3 of them for the movie.
 
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 14:36:18 -0400

Farley Mowat also had the distinction of being banned from the U.S.
 He was getting on a plane in Toronto for a book tour in the U.S. when he
was told
 he wasn¹t allowed in. He was on a list of Anarchists, Communists, and other
ne¹er do wells.
 Not a book, but has anyone seen the sailing disaster film, All Is Lost,
with Robert Redford?
 I had high expectations, but was pretty disappointed.
 Ed
 
 
 From: Paul Fountain 
 To: "Richard N. Bush" , ""
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
 Message-ID: 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
 
 Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
 Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the
 Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr.
 Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
 picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
 launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
 just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I
couldn't
 put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters described in the
 book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they
 went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was
 that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!
 
 Richard
 1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
 Richard N. Bush
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
 502-584-7255
 


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Stus-List One more All Is Lost link

[Ed Dooley via CnC-List]

I found myself annoyed by all the little, and big, mistakes made:
http://www.mirror.co.uk/tv/tv-news/wrong-robert-redfords-film-epic-2993403
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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[LKL Architects via CnC-List]

Thank you Russ and Jim,

All good suggestions and appreciate your helpI feel a lot better going 
forward.

Lloyd
Finesse
LF 39
Rockport, Texas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 1:42 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts


  Hi Lloyd,

  Sounds like you have a good mechanic. 
  Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off & re-torque but 
it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry & clean or lubricated?

  We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would check each 
at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight on first go, but 
stop at movement.

  But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs.

  I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use an 
extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that torsion as well 
(depends on the length of the extension).

  KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :)

  Cheers, Russ
  Sweet 35 mk-1

  At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote: 


Hello Listers,
 
While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand 
250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the proper 
leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and maybe also with 
a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge walls to move the 
torque wrench.
 
Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then 
re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his suggestion.
 
I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.
 
Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
LF39
 
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--


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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Lloyd,

Good advice from the others.  Here's the link to the torque specs on the
C&C site:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/indexes/techndx.htm

Back them off and then re-tighten.  Add 10% if you lubricate them.

Look to rent a torque multiplier like suggested.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 1:01 PM, LKL Architects via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
>
>
> While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand
> 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the
> proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and
> maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge
> walls to move the torque wrench.
>
>
>
> Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then
> re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his
> suggestion.
>
>
>
> I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.
>
>
>
> Lloyd Lippe
>
> Finesse
>
> LF39
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

"All Is Lost" disapointed me for 25 minutes, then I switched channels, so I may 
not be a good judge? Couldn't stand the slow pace. 

Life is too short to waste time watching someone hesitate and do everything 
wrong. 
Hole in the side of boat? Stop the water coming in. Stick a cushion from a bunk 
into a garbage bag and brace it against the hole from inside boat. Duck tape a 
bag over the hole from outside? 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: edoo...@madriver.com, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 2:49:26 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost 

I just watched that movie a couple of weeks ago. 
I didn't want to turn it off... 
I found myself asking, "WTF is he doing now?" a lot. 
found out it was a Cal 39 that he was on. They basically bought and destroyed 3 
of them for the movie. 
Danny 


-- Original Message -- 
From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost 
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 14:36:18 -0400 

Farley Mowat also had the distinction of being banned from the U.S. 
He was getting on a plane in Toronto for a book tour in the U.S. when he was 
told 
he wasn’t allowed in. He was on a list of Anarchists, Communists, and other 
ne’er do wells. 
Not a book, but has anyone seen the sailing disaster film, All Is Lost, with 
Robert Redford? 
I had high expectations, but was pretty disappointed. 
Ed 


From: Paul Fountain < p...@seasource.ca > 
To: "Richard N. Bush" < bushma...@aol.com >, "< cnc-list@cnc-list.com >" 
< cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks 
Message-ID: < b1e1531b-97e3-4b0b-96cf-026049d70...@seasource.ca > 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 

Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away. 

Sent from my iPad 

On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> wrote: 

Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the 
Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr. 
Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I 
picked up a used paperback copy on ebay. I laid it aside during spring 
launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago. I 
just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't 
put it down. Since I know little of the northern waters described in the 
book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they 
went, which made it even more enjoyable. So thank you to whomever it was 
that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan! 

Richard 
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584; 
Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 

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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

He also wrote books aimed at a younger audience, and "The Black Joke" was 
another book involving boats, - the perils of purchasing a run down piece of 
junk. 

When I was a kid, he was one of my favourite authors. 

Steve Thomas
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
  To: Richard N. Bush ;  
  Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 10:26 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks


  Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away. 

  Sent from my iPad

  On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the 
Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr. 
Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I picked 
up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring launch and 
other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I just finished 
the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't put it down.  
Since I know little of the northern waters described in the book, I kept my 
laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they went, which made it 
even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was that suggested the book, 
I am now a Mowat fan!  

Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
To: Dennis C. ; 1 CnC List 
Sent: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 12:11 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl


Interlux Special Thinner 216 dissolves butyl beautifully and leaves no 
noticeable residue. I use it to prep many surfaces for painting or caulking. 



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



On 16 October 2014 20:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

  Goo Gone or similar.  Final clean with denatured alcohol.


  BTW, denatured alcohol removes uncured, repeat uncured, 5200 well.



  Dennis C.

  Touche' 35-1 #83

  Mandeville, LA



  On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
 wrote:

But the question was "what would remove butyl where it was not wanted". 
 Agreed varsol and paint thinner leave an 'oily film'.why wouldn't they, 
they are petroleum based. 

But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm your 
deck paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we apply to our deck 
paint, annually!

So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the butyl 
is removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can tolerate acetone. 

What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted butyl ?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote:

  My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave 
residue that prevents proper sealing.  

  --- Original Message ---

  From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List" 
  Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM
  To: "Hoyt, Mike" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Butyl


  Mike:
  Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl.

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.

  Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now!




  On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove 
it from where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been 
using butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and 
nearly impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids 
us of that?

Mike
Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence







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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

You're right as usual Dwight. The ingredient listed for 216 is Xylene, same 
stuff. 


- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "Jim Watts" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 11:49:53 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl 



Interlux Special Thinner 216 smells just like xylene, availble from most paint 
stores for 1/3 the price…xylene works 




Dwight Veinot 

C&C 35MKII, Alianna 

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List 
Sent: October 17, 2014 1:11 AM 
To: Dennis C.; 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl 





Interlux Special Thinner 216 dissolves butyl beautifully and leaves no 
noticeable residue. I use it to prep many surfaces for painting or caulking. 





Jim Watts 
Paradigm Shift 
C&C 35 Mk III 
Victoria, BC 





On 16 October 2014 20:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 


Goo Gone or similar. Final clean with denatured alcohol. 


BTW, denatured alcohol removes uncured, repeat uncured, 5200 well. 





Dennis C. 


Touche' 35-1 #83 


Mandeville , LA 





On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 





But the question was "what would remove butyl where it was not wanted". Agreed 
varsol and paint thinner leave an 'oily film'.why wouldn't they, they are 
petroleum based. 

But varsol and paint thinner will remove butyl and will not harm your deck 
paint any more than the splashing of diesel fuel we apply to our deck paint, 
annually! 

So clean any space that needs proper sealing, clean it after the butyl is 
removed with TSP and/or acetone if the substrate can tolerate acetone. 

What product would you recommend Mike use to clean his unwanted butyl ? 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 




On 2014/10/15 1:50 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List wrote: 





My experiance with varsol and paint thinner is that they leave residue that 
prevents proper sealing. 

--- Original Message --- 

From: "Robert Abbott via CnC-List"  
Sent: 15 October, 2014 11:30 AM 
To: "Hoyt, Mike"  , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Butyl 


Mike: 
Varsol or any paint thinner will clean butyl. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 

Unstepped the mast yesterday.being hauled out any day now! 




On 2014/10/15 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: 





The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from 
where it was not wanted. Old fittings being rebidded that had been using butyl 
would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly impossible 
to remove. Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us of that? 



Mike 

Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence 

















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No virus found in this message. 
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4040/8356 - Release Date: 10/09/14 
Internal Virus Database is out of date. 

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Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Had a nice trip to Baltimore.  Got in about 1530 with a nice breeze.  With NW 
winds next two days tides will be extra low.  Joe. Coquina


Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2014, at 21:38, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Joe,
> I hope to sail this weekend.  Not sure yet if I can get two days, but I'd 
> like to make that trip?  Should know tomorrow.
> 
> From your comment, do you mean the strong Northerly will blow the water out 
> of the Bay and Kent Narrows depths will be too low to risk it?
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 10:20:26 AM
> Subject: Stus-List sailing this weekend
> 
> Anyone headed out? It looks like we’ll have frontal passage here Saturday 
> night, so the plan is to go to Baltimore and then sail home with 15 knots on 
> the stern Sunday. We were going to go to Saint Michaels, but the forecast is 
> uphill both ways and I don’t trust Kent Narrows with a strong northerly.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C&C 35
> 
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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Oops, I meant subtract 10%.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 2:38 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Lloyd,
>
> Good advice from the others.  Here's the link to the torque specs on the
> C&C site:
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/indexes/techndx.htm
>
> Back them off and then re-tighten.  Add 10% if you lubricate them.
>
> Look to rent a torque multiplier like suggested.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 1:01 PM, LKL Architects via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello Listers,
>>
>>
>>
>> While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and understand
>> 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very difficult to get the
>> proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever used a small jack and
>> maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side pressure against the bilge
>> walls to move the torque wrench.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then
>> re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his
>> suggestion.
>>
>>
>>
>> I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help.
>>
>>
>>
>> Lloyd Lippe
>>
>> Finesse
>>
>> LF39
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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Stus-List How Big is my Shaft

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I can't make it over to the boat today to checkdo any of our 
37+/40 listers knoe how big my shaft it?  Pretty usre it's 1 1/4 but 
want to be sure.


thx

Tom B <-- leaving himself wide open to all sorts of stuff with a 
subject like that!


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎I've had my PYI seal for 10 yrs and I've never touched it - works flawless - 
except to burp it when I splash in the spring. 

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 12:28 PM
To: Eric Frank; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

I would not do it, because you would have to get new set screws and reset it 
in the spring. I am leaving mine intact.

Marek (in Ottawa)

-Original Message- 
From: Eric Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 1:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the Dripless 
PYI shaft seal. PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop shaft so the 
bellows could expand to its uncompressed state. I have never done this, and 
with the recent discussion about the set screws holding the rotor in place 
on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth it. Would be interested in what 
other PYI users do. I did replace the entire unit last winter; at full 
engine RPM I had noticed water spraying out between the rotor and the carbon 
flange, perhaps because the thrust of the prop pushed the shaft forward 
until the rotor did not make good contact with the flange. When I unclamped 
the rotor and slid it forward to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and 
there were some small pits in the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI 
recommended replacing the entire unit, which I did, and it has worked fine 
this summer. But it had worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat, 
and looked like it had been installed well before that, without doing 
anything to winterize it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at 
the beginning of each season. So what's the feeling about following PS's 
suggestion?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List How Big is my Shaft

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Pretty sure your right.
On Oct 17, 2014 6:05 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  I can't make it over to the boat today to checkdo any of our 37+/40
> listers knoe how big my shaft it?  Pretty usre it's 1 1/4 but want to be
> sure.
>
> thx
>
> Tom B <-- leaving himself wide open to all sorts of stuff with a subject
> like that!
>
>  Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List How Big is my Shaft

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Tom,


Propellor specs are 16" x 9" x 1 1/8" according to the manual. So maybe 1 1/8 
is your number


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Oct 17, 2014, at 6:51 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Pretty sure your right.

> On Oct 17, 2014 6:05 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> I can't make it over to the boat today to checkdo any of our 37+/40 
> listers knoe how big my shaft it?  Pretty usre it's 1 1/4 but want to be sure.
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B <-- leaving himself wide open to all sorts of stuff with a subject like 
> that!
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

A simple solution for the set screw issue is to use the retention collar
(http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src). It uses very positive
compression (i.e. large) bolts to hold on to the shaft. If you install it
right behind the stainless steel bearing of the PSS, it would (almost) never
move back. I think it is insurance worth its $30 price.

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 2:17 PM
To: 'Eric Frank'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

I wonder if your pits were from not using it and then oxidation or
electrolysis cause carbon material to deteriorate.  The more you use it the
better the seal is as the carbon polishes itself out.  I had leakage when my
prop coupling was badly miss-aligned but once I fixed that, leakage went
away.  Don't forget to replace set screws every time you loosen them. I
installed mine new in 2004.  Had it out on 4-5 occasions at which time I
would soak everything in a tupperware container with WD40 for few days then
wipe it clean.  

Then I read this article.  
http://www.passagemaker.com/articles/technical/running-gear/dripless-shaft-s
eals/[Marek Dziedzic]  
  
And I realized that I was probably lucky that I never had a problem.  I am
due for whatever overhaul kit comes for it.  They don't specify the size and
thread on the set screw.  I have ordered a 25 pack from mcmaster 5/16"-18 in
316SS, with a point set.  I am yet to see how they fit.  


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C&C 38MkII
Newport, RI



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List winterizing the PYI shaft seal

Practical Sailor recently posted a suggestion for winterizing the Dripless
PYI shaft seal.  PS said to unclamp the SS rotor from the prop shaft so the
bellows could expand to its uncompressed state.  I have never done this, and
with the recent discussion about the set screws holding the rotor in place
on the prop shaft, I wonder if it is worth it.  Would be interested in what
other PYI users do.  I did replace the entire unit last winter; at full
engine RPM I had noticed water spraying out between the rotor and the carbon
flange, perhaps because the thrust of the prop pushed the shaft forward
until the rotor did not make good contact with the flange.  When I unclamped
the rotor and slid it forward to inspect, the bellows was very stiff and
there were some small pits in the carbon and the rotor surfaces. PYI
recommended replacing the entire unit, which I did, and it has worked fine
this summer.  But it had worked flawlessly for the 8 years I owned the boat,
and looked like it had been installed well before that, without doing
anything to winterize it - just checking to make sure it was not leaking at
the beginning of each season.  So what's the feeling about following PS's
suggestion? 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Slight correction; the politicians are getting involved..

Leslie.


On Thu, 10/16/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?
 To: "Wally Bryant" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Date: Thursday, October 16, 2014, 5:33 PM
 
 Things are NOT OK.  The
 government is getting involved. 
 
 Dennis C.
 
 Sent
 from my iPhone
 
 > On Oct
 16, 2014, at 6:35 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 > 
 > Is
 everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a
 pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in the US and Canada.
 > 
 > Wal
 > 
 > -- 
 > s/v Stella Blue
 >
 www.wbryant.com
 > 
 >
 
 >
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 address:
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 unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List [Bulk] Re: Ebola?

[David Drake via CnC-List]

I almost unsubscribef from the group until I read your quip
Keep up the good work

DDrake 
73 JH 
C&C 26

> On Oct 16, 2014, at 10:15 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You guys can't figure out how to clean up Butyl - there's no way your going 
> to get your heads around the Ebola crisis!
> 
> sam :-)
> 
> 
>> On 2014-10-16, at 6:53 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Josh,
>> 
>> Agree.  But why did they separate the two infected nurses, the ones that 
>> care for the ebola patient who died,  and send them to different hospitals 
>> for care?  That doubles the number of people exposed.  Maybe it's for 
>> training the hospital staff?
>> 
>> 
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>> 
>> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> To: w...@wbryant.com, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
>> Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 7:50:00 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?
>> 
>> Over the last 4 weeks I believe we are up to 6 total infected people 2 
>> cured, 1 dead.  By comparison 6 people per DAY die from electrocution.  We 
>> need to keep it in control but it is hardly a pandemic.  Oddly they are now 
>> choosing to transport an infected patient from Texas to Bethesda, MD.  Seems 
>> like maybe a questionable decision.
>> 
>> Josh
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>>> On Oct 16, 2014 7:36 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in 
>>> the US and Canada.
>>> 
>>> Wal
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> s/v Stella Blue
>>> www.wbryant.com
>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Check the amount of bolt sticking out. You may need a deep
or extra deep socket. If the nut is 1 1/2" the bolt is 1" and
requires 350 ft/lbs of torque. To me that would be a 1" drive
and at least an 18" bar.

As a start I would recommend borrowing or renting the
appropriate socket, short extension and a 24" bar. Brace yourself
and give it a really hard pull. 175 pounds of force is a lot, not
too risky that you are going to exceed it by much.

If you get any movement of the nut then you have an issue
and should consider backing off the nuts, cleaning everything
and torquing them correctly.

If there is no movement of any of the nuts you may still
want to clean and re-torque them for piece of mind. Some
points to check is both the face of the nut and the matching
washer need to be clean and smooth. Also square.

I have a 1" drive set with deep sockets so have checked
or helped re-torque a few keels. A few have been loose,
maybe that way for years, but have not exhibited any problems.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
 
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 11:42:57 -0700 
From: Russ & Melody  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts 
Message-ID: 
      
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" 
 
Hi Lloyd, 
 
Sounds like you have a good mechanic. 
Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off &  
re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry  
& clean or lubricated? 
 
We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would  
check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight  
on first go, but stop at movement. 
 
But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs. 
 
I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use  
an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that  
torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension). 
 
KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :) 
 
         Cheers, Russ 
         Sweet 35 mk-1 
 
At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote: 
> 
>Hello Listers, 
> 
>While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and  
>understand 250 lbs is needed.  Boat mechanic says it is very  
>difficult to get the proper leverage deep in the bilge.  Anyone ever  
>used a small jack and maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side  
>pressure against the bilge walls to move the torque wrench. 
> 
>Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then  
>re-tightening.  That does not sound good to me.  Any thought on his 
>suggestion. 
> 
>I thank any responses in advance always appreciate the help. 
> 
>Lloyd Lippe 
>Finesse 
>LF39 
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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

look out for ascenders with 'teeth'; they can shred the rope on a fall, and 
break the rope (if it is bad enough, but will ruin the rope anyhow).  Gibb 
ascenders a lot better (more like a line clutch), we only used Gibbs in USART.

Leslie.


On Thu, 10/16/14, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
 To: "C&C List" , "Edd Schillay" 
 Date: Thursday, October 16, 2014, 5:39 PM
 
 Here's a
 couple of links to spring off of for ascender climbing. 
 The foot ascenders look promissing.
 A waste strap/line can also be passed around
 the mast and both ends attached to the harness (one end on a
 carabiner for fast passing of obstructions).  This is added
 safety to prevent accidentally twisting upside down and you
 slipping out of the harness or chair.  This is one reason I
 prefer a harness.
 https://www.google.com/search?q=ascender+climbing&oq=ascender
 http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ascender_(climbing)
 http://youtube.com/watch?v=2LK20hvHQyA
 http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/ascender-safety-101
 
 Josh
 
 
 On Oct 16, 2014 7:58
 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 Listers,
Now that the
 Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of
 projects -- One of which is some mast work. 
Has anyone on the list
 ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so, what
 did you use. 
There’s an article
 about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so it’s
 on my mind.
And no, the
 transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the
 mast. 
 
 
 
All the
 best,
Edd
 
Edd M.
 Schillay   Starship
 Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-B City Island,
 NY Starship
 Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
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Stus-List All is lost.. Disapointing flick

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I totally agree with Chuck.

This is not a sailing movie, it's full of holes and convenient omissions
like:

-  No EPIRB, yet had a sophisticated life raft,
-  No backup waterproof VHF radio ,main VHF not water proof,  no GPS, no
AIS.
- Leaves the companion way open in a heavy storm
- Aimlessly drifting around
- Gets hit by the container  hard enough to make a huge hole yet it was
perfectly calm, still, and his engine is not running. Was there an engine
running on the container?
- Tacks and puts the gaping hole to leeward therefore getting the hole in
the drink, with un-trimmed sails, shouldn't he had kept it to windward and
keep it dry while figuring out what to do? He was while sailing around
aimlessly anyway..
- Etc, etc, etc

I guess he gets some credit for conveying all the emotions without saying a
single word the whole movie..

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Re: Stus-List How Big is my Shaft

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Just measured my shaft.  It's 1 1/4".
On Oct 17, 2014 6:05 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  I can't make it over to the boat today to checkdo any of our 37+/40
> listers knoe how big my shaft it?  Pretty usre it's 1 1/4 but want to be
> sure.
>
> thx
>
> Tom B <-- leaving himself wide open to all sorts of stuff with a subject
> like that!
>
>  Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List]

You could be right...

 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario

Not for long.

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: October 17, 2014 12:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?

 

Yanni,

looking at cartoons is not really reading :)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10678811_947
676645253347_5299347798631232381_n.jpg?oh=c0673d63d85a52310d1f0f68c7bcaf82

&oe=54BAFD3B&__gda__=1420776167_2dbbff97e2098d371df4cc407ed007e8 


To keep this sailing related, this guy looks like one of AG's cockpit crew.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Wet Coast, Colony of V.I., kinda damp right now



At 05:02 PM 16/10/2014, you wrote:




>From what I've read there are 30 people die from obesity every year,
8 from smoking, 15000 from alcohol, and I don'r know how many from
hunger and other reasons. I think it is another way to divert our minds from
politics and what has been done wrong and it is being done wrong everyday,
and stir some I don't know what. 
 
Yanni Boatless in Ontario
Not for long
 

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Re: Stus-List All is lost.. Disapointing flick

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Movie was 1980s technology.   I thought it was excellent and conveyed the sense 
of individual courage in a period of desperation and impending doom.  The boat 
was allegorical.  The ending scene was from Michelangelo's Sistine
Chapel.  Jerry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 17, 2014, at 7:43 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I totally agree with Chuck.  
> 
> This is not a sailing movie, it's full of holes and convenient omissions 
> like: 
> 
> -  No EPIRB, yet had a sophisticated life raft,
> -  No backup waterproof VHF radio ,main VHF not water proof,  no GPS, no AIS.
> - Leaves the companion way open in a heavy storm
> - Aimlessly drifting around
> - Gets hit by the container  hard enough to make a huge hole yet it was 
> perfectly calm, still, and his engine is not running. Was there an engine 
> running on the container? 
> - Tacks and puts the gaping hole to leeward therefore getting the hole in the 
> drink, with un-trimmed sails, shouldn't he had kept it to windward and keep 
> it dry while figuring out what to do? He was while sailing around aimlessly 
> anyway..
> - Etc, etc, etc
> 
> I guess he gets some credit for conveying all the emotions without saying a 
> single word the whole movie.. 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
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Re: Stus-List How Big is my Shaft

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

They say this cat Shaft is a bad mother
SHUT YOUR MOUTH!
I'm talkin' 'bout Shaft.
THEN WE CAN DIG IT!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-10-17 8:52 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Just measured my shaft.  It's 1 1/4".

On Oct 17, 2014 6:05 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I can't make it over to the boat today to checkdo any of our
37+/40 listers knoe how big my shaft it?  Pretty usre it's 1 1/4
but want to be sure.

thx

Tom B <-- leaving himself wide open to all sorts of stuff with a
subject like that!

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200 
www.sv-alera.com



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Re: Stus-List All is lost.. Disapointing flick

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

It upset me that after the storm he stepped back aboard the 3/4 sunk boat in a 
dead calm and instead of trying to pump out and save her, he stepped into the 
life raft. But to the movies credit this was not a how to movie. This was a 
story of one man and what he did, right or wrong. Nobody ever said he was an 
educated sailor nor was it implied. There are a lot of boneheads and credit 
card captains who venture offshore and haven't the slightest idea how to cope 
when things go sideways.
That being said it's not exactly on my like list of sailing cinema. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 17, 2014, at 7:02 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Movie was 1980s technology.   I thought it was excellent and conveyed the 
> sense of individual courage in a period of desperation and impending doom.  
> The boat was allegorical.  The ending scene was from Michelangelo's Sistine
> Chapel.  Jerry
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 17, 2014, at 7:43 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I totally agree with Chuck.  
>> 
>> This is not a sailing movie, it's full of holes and convenient omissions 
>> like: 
>> 
>> -  No EPIRB, yet had a sophisticated life raft,
>> -  No backup waterproof VHF radio ,main VHF not water proof,  no GPS, no AIS.
>> - Leaves the companion way open in a heavy storm
>> - Aimlessly drifting around
>> - Gets hit by the container  hard enough to make a huge hole yet it was 
>> perfectly calm, still, and his engine is not running. Was there an engine 
>> running on the container? 
>> - Tacks and puts the gaping hole to leeward therefore getting the hole in 
>> the drink, with un-trimmed sails, shouldn't he had kept it to windward and 
>> keep it dry while figuring out what to do? He was while sailing around 
>> aimlessly anyway..
>> - Etc, etc, etc
>> 
>> I guess he gets some credit for conveying all the emotions without saying a 
>> single word the whole movie.. 
>> 
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

This is how I'm setting up next year using a Grigri. It makes a great ascender 
/ descender. Check it out. 
http://youtu.be/BkErYrEWOMA

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2014, at 6:58 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
>   Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of 
> projects -- One of which is some mast work. 
> 
>   Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if 
> so, what did you use. 
> 
>   There’s an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so 
> it’s on my mind.
> 
>   And no, the transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the mast. 
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

[Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List]

Ed, I don't think I have heard of Farley Mowat and I am sorry to hear he
passed. 

I have watched that movie and it brought some old sad memories. I don't know
what you were expecting to see. 

I was in almost the same situation in a life-raft for three days after a
freighter run me over overnight between Malta and Sicilia. It was 1976 That
movie was not an adventure to watch over a bowl of popcorn, it was about
surrender.

 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario

Not for long.

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley
via CnC-List
Sent: October 17, 2014 2:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

 

Farley Mowat also had the distinction of being banned from the U.S.
He was getting on a plane in Toronto for a book tour in the U.S. when he was
told
he wasn't allowed in. He was on a list of Anarchists, Communists, and other
ne'er do wells.
Not a book, but has anyone seen the sailing disaster film, All Is Lost, with
Robert Redford?
I had high expectations, but was pretty disappointed.
Ed


From: Paul Fountain mailto:p...@seasource.ca> >
To: "Richard N. Bush" mailto:bushma...@aol.com> >,
"mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
Message-ID: mailto:b1e1531b-97e3-4b0b-96cf-026049d70...@seasource.ca> >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the
Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr.
Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't
put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters described in the
book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they
went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was
that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!

Richard
1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255

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Stus-List Torquing keel nuts

[Ted Drossos via CnC-List]

Torquing keel bolts to 250 ft. lbs. is a bit of a workout but certainly within 
the means of the average physically fit person. As long as you have an 
extension from the torque wrench to the socket that is long enough to get the 
torque wrench above the cabin sole, it shouldn't be a problem. I check mine 
every year without the help of a cheater bar or jack and I'm not a particularly 
strong person. 62 yrs. old, 5'-11" & 185 lbs.and have never seen the inside of 
a gym. If you are having a problem, a helping hand from a friend will make it 
much simpler than a jack. Loosing the nuts is not a problem. Loosen one at a 
time.


Ted Drossos
C&C 29-2
H2OT
Long Island, NY 
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Stus-List Ebola

[Paul Taylor via CnC-List]

maybe a questionable decision.
>>> 
>>> Josh
>>> Solomons, MD
>>> 
>>>> On Oct 16, 2014 7:36 PM, "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> Is everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in 
>>>> the US and Canada.
>>>> 
>>>> Wal
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> s/v Stella Blue
>>>> www.wbryant.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
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>>> 
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>>> 
>>> 
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> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20141017/1ad3df1d/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 19:25:57 -0400
> From: Michael Brown 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts
> Message-ID: <541211282-12...@mail.tkg.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Check the amount of bolt sticking out. You may need a deep
> or extra deep socket. If the nut is 1 1/2" the bolt is 1" and
> requires 350 ft/lbs of torque. To me that would be a 1" drive
> and at least an 18" bar.
> 
> As a start I would recommend borrowing or renting the
> appropriate socket, short extension and a 24" bar. Brace yourself
> and give it a really hard pull. 175 pounds of force is a lot, not
> too risky that you are going to exceed it by much.
> 
> If you get any movement of the nut then you have an issue
> and should consider backing off the nuts, cleaning everything
> and torquing them correctly.
> 
> If there is no movement of any of the nuts you may still
> want to clean and re-torque them for piece of mind. Some
> points to check is both the face of the nut and the matching
> washer need to be clean and smooth. Also square.
> 
> I have a 1" drive set with deep sockets so have checked
> or helped re-torque a few keels. A few have been loose,
> maybe that way for years, but have not exhibited any problems.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> ?
> Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 11:42:57 -0700 
> From: Russ & Melody  
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts 
> Message-ID: 
> ? ?  
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" 
> 
> Hi Lloyd, 
> 
> Sounds like you have a good mechanic. 
> Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off &  
> re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry  
> & clean or lubricated? 
> 
> We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would  
> check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight  
> on first go, but stop at movement. 
> 
> But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs. 
> 
> I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use  
> an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that  
> torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension). 
> 
> KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :) 
> 
> ? ? ? ? Cheers, Ru

Stus-List drive strut

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Rich:

And let's not forget the 'green labeled' 3M poly resin has 'MARINE' 
versus "AUTOMOTIVE' stamped on it...that must make it worth 4X$$.


Kind of like:

"Interlux Special Thinner 216 smells just like xylene, available from 
most paint stores for 1/3 the price"




Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.







On 2014/10/17 9:13 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:

Rob: Those green labels are very expensive to make and a lot classier.

Rich







On Oct 17, 2014, at 15:29, Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
wrote:

Douglas:

You already have had good advice from the C&C listers.  No new advice from me 
but here is what we did with the same situation you are experiencing.

When we bought our boat in 2006, the strut base had a fine hairline crack.  We 
decided to dig out all the filler, mainly to check the nuts/bolts and related 
structure holding the 'strut'. All was O.Kbut now we know.the 
hairline crack was probably caused by vibration from a worn cutlass 
bearing..no big dealwe replaced the cutlass bearing and refilled the 
strut base with I think, polyester resinif I can remember it took two litre 
cans I bought at Canadian Tire for $10 per litre versus $50 per litre at the 
Binnacle.exact same resin made by 3Mone in a red label for $10 and the 
other in a green labeled can for $50.  Nine seasons later, still no new 
hairline cracks.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/10/17 1:30 PM, Douglas via CnC-List wrote:

I had my 38 hauled out to have some glass work done on the knife edge of the
transom, because some moron bumped it (300-ft space between docks).
While it was up on sticks I figured I get some work done, like zincs, grease
the maxi prop, etc.
I notice something with my strut.
I have moisture around the base of the strut, in the form of a square.
Strut seems to be tight, to the untrained eye.
I understand after they are installed (bolted up) they are glazed in, using
epoxy or fairing or a combination, possibly even glassed in (rare).
The cause can be vibration from misalignment, worn cutlass bearing or loose
bolts or again any combination.
Anyone ever have this issue and have some suggestions.
I believe the filler to smooth it out is cracked.
Thanks
Larry




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Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost

[Dan Grant via CnC-List]

Yes I have to agree here 
and also when he had that hole in the hull from the container . He kept heeling 
the boat over only to see water pouring into the cabin 
It reminds me of Einsteins definition of insanity  when you repeat the same 
procedure over and over again expecting to see a different result 
Isn't that something as sailboat owners we are all guilty of ! Haha just tryin 
to be funny and of course the main character made plenty of mistakes but that's 
Hollywood 
Also Yanni please can you elaborate on this situation a bit more on how you got 
yourself in this situation of being run down etc. sounds like a real story 
unlike Hollywood maybe something we can all learn something from 
Thanks in advance
Dan 
1970 corvette 31 
Hull # 148 

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 17, 2014, at 8:47 PM, Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> Ed, I don’t think I have heard of Farley Mowat and I am sorry to hear he 
> passed.
> I have watched that movie and it brought some old sad memories. I don’t know 
> what you were expecting to see.
> I was in almost the same situation in a life-raft for three days after a 
> freighter run me over overnight between Malta and Sicilia. It was 1976 That 
> movie was not an adventure to watch over a bowl of popcorn, it was about 
> surrender.
>  
> Yanni Boatless in Ontario
> Not for long…
>  
> 92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
> 95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
> 07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
> SCRC 011059
> SRO 26-6483
>  
> TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
> Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
> Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: October 17, 2014 2:36 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks, and All Is Lost
>  
> Farley Mowat also had the distinction of being banned from the U.S.
> He was getting on a plane in Toronto for a book tour in the U.S. when he was 
> told
> he wasn’t allowed in. He was on a list of Anarchists, Communists, and other 
> ne’er do wells.
> Not a book, but has anyone seen the sailing disaster film, All Is Lost, with 
> Robert Redford?
> I had high expectations, but was pretty disappointed.
> Ed
> 
> 
> From: Paul Fountain 
> To: "Richard N. Bush" , ""
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Farley Mowat and thanks
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Sadly Farley Mowat recently passed away.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Oct 17, 2014, at 9:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Sometime last spring, someone on the list mentioned that he was reading the
> Farley Mowat book; "The Boat Who Wouldn't Float"; I had never heard of Mr.
> Mowat, but noted that the comment was that the book was enjoyable. So I
> picked up a used paperback copy on ebay.  I laid it aside during spring
> launch and other activities, and came across it a couple of weeks ago.   I
> just finished the book and I am hooked. This was a great read and I couldn't
> put it down.  Since I know little of the northern waters described in the
> book, I kept my laptop next to me and scoped out all of the places they
> went, which made it even more enjoyable.   So thank you to whomever it was
> that suggested the book, I am now a Mowat fan!
> 
> Richard
> 1985 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584;
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
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Re: Stus-List Torquing keel nuts

[LKL Architects via CnC-List]

Thanks Ted.to you and Michael and Dennis and again.Russ and JimI so 
appreciate all your helpful input.  The mechanic loaned me his 250 lb torque 
wrench,  along with extensions and yes...a deep socket,  so I think I am loaded 
up.  Dennis  thank you for clarifying the 10%sure sounds much better.

Now ready to go forward.and thanks againall.


Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
LF 39
Rockport, Tx




  - Original Message - 
  From: Ted Drossos via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:53 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Torquing keel nuts


  Torquing keel bolts to 250 ft. lbs. is a bit of a workout but certainly 
within the means of the average physically fit person. As long as you have an 
extension from the torque wrench to the socket that is long enough to get the 
torque wrench above the cabin sole, it shouldn't be a problem. I check mine 
every year without the help of a cheater bar or jack and I'm not a particularly 
strong person. 62 yrs. old, 5'-11" & 185 lbs.and have never seen the inside of 
a gym. If you are having a problem, a helping hand from a friend will make it 
much simpler than a jack. Loosing the nuts is not a problem. Loosen one at a 
time. 


  Ted Drossos
  C&C 29-2
  H2OT
  Long Island, NY 


--


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