Hi Lloyd,
Sounds like you have a good mechanic.
Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off &
re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry
& clean or lubricated?
We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would
check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight
on first go, but stop at movement.
But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs.
I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use
an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that
torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension).
KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote:
Hello Listers,
While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and
understand 250 lbs is needed. Boat mechanic says it is very
difficult to get the proper leverage deep in the bilge. Anyone ever
used a small jack and maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side
pressure against the bilge walls to move the torque wrench.
Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then
re-tightening. That does not sound good to me. Any thought on his suggestion.
I thank any responses in advance.... always appreciate the help.
Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
LF39
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
