Re: Stus-List storing handheld gps ..radios etc.

2014-01-18 Thread Rich Knowles
No fun any more. Thanks, MADD:)

Rich

> On Jan 18, 2014, at 3:31, Jim Watts  wrote:
> 
> That sounds like the last call at the Manhattan Ballroom, 15 miles out of 
> Saskatoon. That's where I saw Burton Cummings and the Guess Who in their 
> early days. 
> All those people, hurling in the bushes, cars in the ditch all the way back 
> to the highway. Man, I miss that. : )
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
>> On 17 January 2014 18:40, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> Gives new meaning to "One for the ditch!"
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Jan 17, 2014, at 22:11, Jim Watts  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Small ditch bag. We barely have room for the potato chips and nachos even 
>>> without the electronics. 
>>> 
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>> 
>>> 
 On 17 January 2014 17:49, Josh Muckley  wrote:
 I ran into a couple that would store their whole ditch bag in the oven.  
 VHF radio, gps...the whole works.  Said it was a great out of the way 
 place to store stuff and they could get it in a hurry.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 
> On Jan 17, 2014 1:38 PM, "Don Newman"  wrote:
> This should significantly improve the odds of survival of electronics 
> stored in the oven. 
> But it isn't impossible that a GPS sitting loose on the chart table would 
> survive while one on the oven is fried by rf generated from current 
> induced in the body of the oven. 
> 
> We experienced every combination you could imagine in computers over the 
> years. 
> 
> One good war story was the computer on the second story of a building 
> near the Welland canal the crashed occasionally from radar of a passing 
> ship. Took a long time to spot that one. 
> 
> 
> Don Newman
> C&C 44
> 
>> On Jan 16, 2014, at 19:58, Jim Watts  wrote:
>> 
>> The concept, IIRC, is that the metal oven acts as a Faraday cage when 
>> it's closed and there is no entry point for a sideflash. I'm sure 
>> someone will correct me here. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>> 
>>> On 16 January 2014 16:42, Jimmy Kelly  wrote:
>>> have not heard of oven storage before..would like to hear more...i was 
>>> hit by lightning   a number years a go  ...only electrics not totally 
>>> fried was  spare  b&g  rdf...was not trailing ground  from shrouds  as 
>>> was   & is still  a habit  thanks.
>>> 
>>> ___
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Re: Stus-List Thru hull and manifolds

2014-01-18 Thread Jake Brodersen
Joel,

 

I agree.  This might not be a good setup.   The head drain is usually
underwater.  Nobody wants to see the gray water discharge.  The bilge pump
discharge should be as high above the waterline as possible.  A second bilge
pump outlet on the port side wouldn't look bad. 

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 10:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thru hull and manifolds

 

Andrew,

Good point.  The current manifolds mix intake and discharge.  I've never
tried using the head with the Y Valve set to discharge, but it could be
ugly!

Joel

 

On Fri, Jan 17, 2014 at 9:49 AM, Andrew Burton 
wrote:

I like the idea of cutting down the number of holes in the bottom, but I
think through hull manifolds are better used for intakes. You would
certainly need a check valve in each drain line if you had them sharing a
thru-hull.

Andy

C&C 40
Peregrine

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Re: Stus-List Electronics GPS

2014-01-18 Thread Ken Heaton
As Jim said yesterday, the cage doesn't need to be grounded.  Here are a
couple of interesting videos illustrating the concept, sort of:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dqRN0Z7-_o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfnYuANLh5k

Ken H.


On 17 January 2014 11:25, dwight  wrote:

> I read your post Jim, guess some others did not…or maybe just wanted
> thought what you wrote needed to be restated and embellished.
>
>
>
> No one mentioned but I believe the Faraday cage may need to be connected
> to ground, otherwise where do the electrons go
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim
> Watts
> *Sent:* January 17, 2014 11:20 AM
> *To:* 1 CnC List
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Electronics GPS
>
>
>
> It was also courtesy of me, yesterday.
>
>
>  Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
> On 17 January 2014 06:38, Ben  wrote:
>
> One thing to bear in mind when choosing navigation instruments. If you get
> hit by lightning, every electronic gadget you have on board will be fried
> even if it is not plugged into anything. Thus you will want old fashion
> alternatives including a sextant if you are offshore. One way to save a
> hand held GPS would be to put it in a screened cage, known as a Faraday
> cage, to protect it from the electric field which results from a lightning
> strike.
> Incidentally, this info is courtesy of Andy & Liza Copeland cruisers and
> authors.
> Ben Sutton
> BC
>
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Chartplotter Question

2014-01-18 Thread David Knecht
My “new” boat came with a Lowrance HDS-5 chartplotter/gps. Reading this discussion, I was hoping that I could do some plotting of routes ahead of time and then upload info to the HDS5 when I get to the boat.  However, I find no information about any connection/upload of information in the manual.  Does anyone know if it is somehow possible to do?  Thanks- DaveOn Jan 17, 2014, at 5:44 PM, Graham Collins  wrote:
  

  
  
I tried the A75 wifi version at the
  boat show - I had downloaded the RayControl app on my tablet ahead
  of time.  I walked up, reset the wi-fi, and was connected to it
  before the rep could get over to see what I was doing.  Works a
  treat, easy to set up, and on my shopping list.  Fred - do you
  ship to Canada???  If so I'm looking for some Ray goods...  
  Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
  On 2014-01-17 12:35 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:


  
  Steve — you might consider one of the new Raymarine “a” series
  displays; cheaper than the e7, and they play well together on the
  Seatalk HS/Raynet network.  Even the smallest a65 has the network
  connection, and can share all the data and control the system.
   Advantages over the iPad solution are permanently-connected power
  and much better waterproof-ability than the iPad.
  
  
  Let me know if you’d like pricing.

  
  
  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
  WI   :^(




  On Jan 17, 2014, at 10:26 AM, Joel Aronson 
wrote:
  
  
Steve,
  
  
  My E7 is at the helm.  The problem is that you can
only see it when you are behind the wheel.  I have not
tried the Ray app on the IPad, but for the Bermuda race
I intend to use a RamMount and a waterproof case so I
can mirror the E7 and swivel the IPad from side to side.
 I installed a power outlet in the NavPod to keep the
Ipad charged.  I also have both the Garmin and Navionics
apps on the IPad as a backup.
  
  
  The new OS for the E7 should be out by spring. 
  
  
  Joel
  35/3
  Annapolis




David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List storing handheld gps ..radios etc.

2014-01-18 Thread Russ & Melody


Yup, they've taken all the fun out of an impaired drive :)

DAMM never got traction.

Cheers, Russ

At 04:03 AM 18/01/2014, you wrote:

No fun any more. Thanks, MADD:)

Rich

On Jan 18, 2014, at 3:31, Jim Watts 
<paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote:


That sounds like the last call at the Manhattan Ballroom, 15 miles 
out of Saskatoon. That's where I saw Burton Cummings and the Guess 
Who in their early days.
All those people, hurling in the bushes, cars in the ditch all the 
way back to the highway. Man, I miss that. : )


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 17 January 2014 18:40, Rich Knowles 
<r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:

Gives new meaning to "One for the ditch!"

Rich

On Jan 17, 2014, at 22:11, Jim Watts 
<paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote:


Small ditch bag. We barely have room for the potato chips and 
nachos even without the electronics.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 17 January 2014 17:49, Josh Muckley 
<muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:


I ran into a couple that would store their whole ditch bag in the 
oven.  VHF radio, gps...the whole works.  Said it was a great out 
of the way place to store stuff and they could get it in a hurry.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 17, 2014 1:38 PM, "Don Newman" 
<donrnew...@gmail.com> wrote:
This should significantly improve the odds of survival of 
electronics stored in the oven.
But it isn't impossible that a GPS sitting loose on the chart 
table would survive while one on the oven is fried by rf generated 
from current induced in the body of the oven.


We experienced every combination you could imagine in computers 
over the years.


One good war story was the computer on the second story of a 
building near the Welland canal the crashed occasionally from 
radar of a passing ship. Took a long time to spot that one.



Don Newman
C&C 44

On Jan 16, 2014, at 19:58, Jim Watts 
<paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote:


The concept, IIRC, is that the metal oven acts as a Faraday cage 
when it's closed and there is no entry point for a sideflash. I'm 
sure someone will correct me here.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 16 January 2014 16:42, Jimmy Kelly 
<kellyjimmy...@gmail.com> wrote:
have not heard of oven storage before..would like to hear 
more...i was hit by lightning   a number years a go  ...only 
electrics not totally fried was  spare  b&g  rdf...was not 
trailing ground  from shrouds  as was   & is still  a habit  thanks.


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Re: Stus-List Chartplotter Question

2014-01-18 Thread Josh Muckley
What electronic device do you want to plot with a head of time?  I use my
laptop at the nav station and it sends the next waypoint and course to
steer to the NMEA 0183 multiplexer.  There really isn't any uploading, more
of an integration.  I also have a card reader/writer for the GPS but it is
too big of a pain to use.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 18, 2014 11:09 AM, "David Knecht"  wrote:

> My “new” boat came with a Lowrance HDS-5 chartplotter/gps. Reading this
> discussion, I was hoping that I could do some plotting of routes ahead of
> time and then upload info to the HDS5 when I get to the boat.  However, I
> find no information about any connection/upload of information in the
> manual.  Does anyone know if it is somehow possible to do?  Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> On Jan 17, 2014, at 5:44 PM, Graham Collins 
> wrote:
>
> I tried the A75 wifi version at the boat show - I had downloaded the
> RayControl app on my tablet ahead of time.  I walked up, reset the wi-fi,
> and was connected to it before the rep could get over to see what I was
> doing.  Works a treat, easy to set up, and on my shopping list.  Fred - do
> you ship to Canada???  If so I'm looking for some Ray goods...
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2014-01-17 12:35 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:
>
> Steve — you might consider one of the new Raymarine “a” series displays;
> cheaper than the e7, and they play well together on the Seatalk HS/Raynet
> network.  Even the smallest a65 has the network connection, and can share
> all the data and control the system.  Advantages over the iPad solution are
> permanently-connected power and much better waterproof-ability than the
> iPad.
>
>  Let me know if you’d like pricing.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>  On Jan 17, 2014, at 10:26 AM, Joel Aronson 
> wrote:
>
>  Steve,
>
>  My E7 is at the helm.  The problem is that you can only see it when you
> are behind the wheel.  I have not tried the Ray app on the IPad, but for
> the Bermuda race I intend to use a RamMount and a waterproof case so I can
> mirror the E7 and swivel the IPad from side to side.  I installed a power
> outlet in the NavPod to keep the Ipad charged.  I also have both the Garmin
> and Navionics apps on the IPad as a backup.
>
>  The new OS for the E7 should be out by spring.
>
>  Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Chartplotter Question

2014-01-18 Thread Jim Watts
David, check out page 22-23 in the manual. There is a file transfer thingie
buried in the Utilities menu. You have to use Lowrance software to do your
pre-planning, copy that to a data card, stick that in the slot on the
plotter, etc.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 18 January 2014 08:08, David Knecht  wrote:

> My “new” boat came with a Lowrance HDS-5 chartplotter/gps. Reading this
> discussion, I was hoping that I could do some plotting of routes ahead of
> time and then upload info to the HDS5 when I get to the boat.  However, I
> find no information about any connection/upload of information in the
> manual.  Does anyone know if it is somehow possible to do?  Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> On Jan 17, 2014, at 5:44 PM, Graham Collins 
> wrote:
>
> I tried the A75 wifi version at the boat show - I had downloaded the
> RayControl app on my tablet ahead of time.  I walked up, reset the wi-fi,
> and was connected to it before the rep could get over to see what I was
> doing.  Works a treat, easy to set up, and on my shopping list.  Fred - do
> you ship to Canada???  If so I'm looking for some Ray goods...
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2014-01-17 12:35 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:
>
> Steve — you might consider one of the new Raymarine “a” series displays;
> cheaper than the e7, and they play well together on the Seatalk HS/Raynet
> network.  Even the smallest a65 has the network connection, and can share
> all the data and control the system.  Advantages over the iPad solution are
> permanently-connected power and much better waterproof-ability than the
> iPad.
>
>  Let me know if you’d like pricing.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>  On Jan 17, 2014, at 10:26 AM, Joel Aronson 
> wrote:
>
>  Steve,
>
>  My E7 is at the helm.  The problem is that you can only see it when you
> are behind the wheel.  I have not tried the Ray app on the IPad, but for
> the Bermuda race I intend to use a RamMount and a waterproof case so I can
> mirror the E7 and swivel the IPad from side to side.  I installed a power
> outlet in the NavPod to keep the Ipad charged.  I also have both the Garmin
> and Navionics apps on the IPad as a backup.
>
>  The new OS for the E7 should be out by spring.
>
>  Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Stus-List Voltage conversion transformer

2014-01-18 Thread Rich Knowles
Has anyone any experience with a Philmore ST3000 Step up/down transformer?  A 
friend is taking his boat to Europe. I can't determine from the web if it's a 
true isolating type or an auto transformer. A Mastervolt isolation transformer 
is way more expensive. 

Rich Knowles
INDIGO - LF38
Halifax NS


> On Jan 18, 2014, at 13:40, Jim Watts  wrote:
> 
> David, check out page 22-23 in the manual. There is a file transfer thingie 
> buried in the Utilities menu. You have to use Lowrance software to do your 
> pre-planning, copy that to a data card, stick that in the slot on the 
> plotter, etc. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
>> On 18 January 2014 08:08, David Knecht  wrote:
>> My “new” boat came with a Lowrance HDS-5 chartplotter/gps. Reading this 
>> discussion, I was hoping that I could do some plotting of routes ahead of 
>> time and then upload info to the HDS5 when I get to the boat.  However, I 
>> find no information about any connection/upload of information in the 
>> manual.  Does anyone know if it is somehow possible to do?  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> 
>>> 
 On Jan 17, 2014, at 5:44 PM, Graham Collins  
 wrote:
 
 I tried the A75 wifi version at the boat show - I had downloaded the 
 RayControl app on my tablet ahead of time.  I walked up, reset the wi-fi, 
 and was connected to it before the rep could get over to see what I was 
 doing.  Works a treat, easy to set up, and on my shopping list.  Fred - do 
 you ship to Canada???  If so I'm looking for some Ray goods...  
 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 C&C 35-III #11
 On 2014-01-17 12:35 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:
> Steve — you might consider one of the new Raymarine “a” series displays; 
> cheaper than the e7, and they play well together on the Seatalk HS/Raynet 
> network.  Even the smallest a65 has the network connection, and can share 
> all the data and control the system.  Advantages over the iPad solution 
> are permanently-connected power and much better waterproof-ability than 
> the iPad.
> 
> Let me know if you’d like pricing.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Jan 17, 2014, at 10:26 AM, Joel Aronson  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Steve,
>> 
>> My E7 is at the helm.  The problem is that you can only see it when you 
>> are behind the wheel.  I have not tried the Ray app on the IPad, but for 
>> the Bermuda race I intend to use a RamMount and a waterproof case so I 
>> can mirror the E7 and swivel the IPad from side to side.  I installed a 
>> power outlet in the NavPod to keep the Ipad charged.  I also have both 
>> the Garmin and Navionics apps on the IPad as a backup.
>> 
>> The new OS for the E7 should be out by spring. 
>> 
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> David Knecht
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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> 
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Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Peter Fell
Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 Unit 0 
furling unit that I could borrow and copy.

Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the uppermost 
foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly foil 
connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like might 
have been a couple versions of this unit.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Andrew Burton
Is that the one with the plastic foil? If so, I think you,re SOL. I had to 
completely replace mine on the J/80 with a whole new unit. I'll check my J/80 
stuff tomorrow.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Jan 18, 2014, at 16:25, "Peter Fell"  wrote:

> Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 Unit 
> 0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.
>  
> Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
> uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly 
> foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like 
> might have been a couple versions of this unit.
>  
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> C&C 27 MkIII
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Re: Stus-List Voltage conversion transformer

2014-01-18 Thread Frederick G Street
Rich — no direct experience with the Philmore, but at that price point, I 
really doubt that it’s isolating.  I couldn’t find any data sheet from their 
website beyond just a catalog page.

How about a Charles ISO transformer like the model 93-IXFMR 3/8I-A:  
http://www.marinedeal.com/product_p/s93-ixfmr3-8i-a.htm

It’s a true marine-grade iso transformer, with taps for 120 and 240.  Probably 
a lot safer than something not designed for the marine environment; and it’ll 
take enough load for the entire vessel’s 30A service, which the Philmore will 
not do.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 18, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Rich Knowles  wrote:

> Has anyone any experience with a Philmore ST3000 Step up/down transformer?  A 
> friend is taking his boat to Europe. I can't determine from the web if it's a 
> true isolating type or an auto transformer. A Mastervolt isolation 
> transformer is way more expensive. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO - LF38
> Halifax NS

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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Peter Fell


From: Andrew Burton 
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 2:35 PM
To: Peter Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

Is that the one with the plastic foil? If so, I think you,re SOL. I had to 
completely replace mine on the J/80 with a whole new unit. I'll check my J/80 
stuff tomorrow.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton 
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
+401 965-5260

On Jan 18, 2014, at 16:25, "Peter Fell"  wrote:


  Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 Unit 
0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.

  Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly 
foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like 
might have been a couple versions of this unit.

  Peter Fell
  Sidney, BC
  C&C 27 MkIII
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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Peter Fell
No, aluminum foil. The Mark 1 was the one with the dreaded rollpins for the 
foils but only on the Unit 1 and above - the Unit 0 had screws.

Thanks for taking a look Andy!


From: Andrew Burton 
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 2:35 PM
To: Peter Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

Is that the one with the plastic foil? If so, I think you,re SOL. I had to 
completely replace mine on the J/80 with a whole new unit. I'll check my J/80 
stuff tomorrow.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton 
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
+401 965-5260

On Jan 18, 2014, at 16:25, "Peter Fell"  wrote:


  Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 Unit 
0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.

  Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly 
foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like 
might have been a couple versions of this unit.

  Peter Fell
  Sidney, BC
  C&C 27 MkIII
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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Bill Connon

Peter Fell wrote:
Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 
1 Unit 0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.
Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, 
possibly foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts 
list – looks like might have been a couple versions of this unit.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII


Peter,
Try the URL
http://www.harken.com/article.aspx?id=18799

There are a bunch of PDF files that you can download - manuals and parts 
lists


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Jim Watts
Mark 1 Unit 0 info here:
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=61882
Post 8.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 18 January 2014 14:45, Peter Fell  wrote:

>   No, aluminum foil. The Mark 1 was the one with the dreaded rollpins for
> the foils but only on the Unit 1 and above - the Unit 0 had screws.
>
> Thanks for taking a look Andy!
>
>
>  *From:* Andrew Burton 
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 18, 2014 2:35 PM
> *To:* Peter Fell  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0
>
>  Is that the one with the plastic foil? If so, I think you,re SOL. I had
> to completely replace mine on the J/80 with a whole new unit. I'll check my
> J/80 stuff tomorrow.
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Jan 18, 2014, at 16:25, "Peter Fell"  wrote:
>
>   Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1
> Unit 0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.
>
> Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the
> uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap,
> possibly foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list –
> looks like might have been a couple versions of this unit.
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
>  ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread John McKay
Peter
I would think you could get the manual on the Harken site.

but if you can't and no one offers, let me know and I can get mine from the 
boat the next time I go and check her

John on Oxygen



On Saturday, January 18, 2014 6:05:19 PM, Jim Watts  
wrote:
  
Mark 1 Unit 0 info here: 
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=61882
Post 8.



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
 


On 18 January 2014 14:45, Peter Fell  wrote:

No, aluminum foil. The Mark 1 was the one with the dreaded rollpins for the 
foils but only on the Unit 1 and above - the Unit 0 had screws. 
>
>Thanks for taking a look Andy!
>  
>
>From: Andrew Burton  
>Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 2:35 PM 
>To: Peter 
Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0 
> 
>Is that the one with the plastic foil? If so, I think you,re SOL. I had to 
completely replace mine on the J/80 with a whole new unit. I'll check my J/80 
stuff tomorrow. 
>
>Andy 
>C&C 40 
>Peregrine
>
>Andrew Burton 
>61 W Narragansett 
>Newport, RI  
>USA    02840 
>http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
>+401 965-5260 
>
>On Jan 18, 2014, at 16:25, "Peter Fell"  wrote:
>
> 
>Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1  Unit 
>0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy. 
>>
>>Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the  
>>uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly  
>>foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like  
>>might have been a couple versions of this unit. 
>>
>>Peter  Fell
>>Sidney, BC
>>C&C 27 MkIII 
>___
>>This  List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
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>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>


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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Peter Fell
Thanks John and Jim

Harken doesn’t have the Mark 1 stuff on the website. I’ve emailed them but no 
response on that question.  They did confirm that there are NO parts for these 
units available anymore.



From: John McKay 
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

Peter
I would think you could get the manual on the Harken site.


but if you can't and no one offers, let me know and I can get mine from the 
boat the next time I go and check her


John on Oxygen



On Saturday, January 18, 2014 6:05:19 PM, Jim Watts  
wrote:

Mark 1 Unit 0 info here: 
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=61882

Post 8.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC




On 18 January 2014 14:45, Peter Fell  wrote:

  No, aluminum foil. The Mark 1 was the one with the dreaded rollpins for the 
foils but only on the Unit 1 and above - the Unit 0 had screws.

  Thanks for taking a look Andy!


  From: Andrew Burton 
  Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 2:35 PM
  To: Peter Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

  Is that the one with the plastic foil? If so, I think you,re SOL. I had to 
completely replace mine on the J/80 with a whole new unit. I'll check my J/80 
stuff tomorrow.

  Andy
  C&C 40
  Peregrine

  Andrew Burton 
  61 W Narragansett
  Newport, RI 
  USA02840

  http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
  +401 965-5260

  On Jan 18, 2014, at 16:25, "Peter Fell"  wrote:


Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 
Unit 0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.

Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly 
foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like 
might have been a couple versions of this unit.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII
___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Peter Fell
Thanks John and Jim

Harken doesn’t have the Mark 1 stuff on the their website. 

Jin, that parts list is the one I refer to in my original post  it doesn’t 
appear to be complete.

I’ve emailed Harken but no response on the documentation question.  They did 
confirm that there are NO parts for these units available anymore.



From: John McKay 
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

Peter
I would think you could get the manual on the Harken site.


but if you can't and no one offers, let me know and I can get mine from the 
boat the next time I go and check her


John on Oxygen



On Saturday, January 18, 2014 6:05:19 PM, Jim Watts  
wrote:

Mark 1 Unit 0 info here: 
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=61882

Post 8.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC




On 18 January 2014 14:45, Peter Fell  wrote:

  No, aluminum foil. The Mark 1 was the one with the dreaded rollpins for the 
foils but only on the Unit 1 and above - the Unit 0 had screws.

  Thanks for taking a look Andy!


  From: Andrew Burton 
  Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 2:35 PM
  To: Peter Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

  Is that the one with the plastic foil? If so, I think you,re SOL. I had to 
completely replace mine on the J/80 with a whole new unit. I'll check my J/80 
stuff tomorrow.

  Andy
  C&C 40
  Peregrine

  Andrew Burton 
  61 W Narragansett
  Newport, RI 
  USA02840

  http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
  +401 965-5260

  On Jan 18, 2014, at 16:25, "Peter Fell"  wrote:


Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 
Unit 0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.

Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly 
foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like 
might have been a couple versions of this unit.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII
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Re: Stus-List Voltage conversion transformer

2014-01-18 Thread Rich Knowles
Thanks, Fred. You're echoing my thoughts exactly. Ya only gets what ya pays fer!

Rich

> On Jan 18, 2014, at 18:37, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Rich — no direct experience with the Philmore, but at that price point, I 
> really doubt that it’s isolating.  I couldn’t find any data sheet from their 
> website beyond just a catalog page.
> 
> How about a Charles ISO transformer like the model 93-IXFMR 3/8I-A:  
> http://www.marinedeal.com/product_p/s93-ixfmr3-8i-a.htm
> 
> It’s a true marine-grade iso transformer, with taps for 120 and 240.  
> Probably a lot safer than something not designed for the marine environment; 
> and it’ll take enough load for the entire vessel’s 30A service, which the 
> Philmore will not do.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Jan 18, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>> 
>> Has anyone any experience with a Philmore ST3000 Step up/down transformer?  
>> A friend is taking his boat to Europe. I can't determine from the web if 
>> it's a true isolating type or an auto transformer. A Mastervolt isolation 
>> transformer is way more expensive. 
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> INDIGO - LF38
>> Halifax NS
> 
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Re: Stus-List Voltage conversion transformer

2014-01-18 Thread Josh Muckley
Conversion and isolation transformers take a large amount of space and
weigh a ton.  Did you consider a marine charger/inverter or separate
charger and inverter.  The chargers are often compatible with a wide range
of voltages and frequencies.  The inverter will put out whatever you want
based on your purchase location.  Most of your A/C needs are going to be
limited to laptop chargers and small electronics.  At most a 700-1000 watt
microwave.  These would probably be within the capacity of the charger and
inverter.  Of course you could have an air conditioner which would likely
be in excess of the inverter.

I would have to double check but I think my charger provides isolation.  If
not you could just disconnect the shore power.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 18, 2014 6:27 PM, "Rich Knowles"  wrote:

> Thanks, Fred. You're echoing my thoughts exactly. Ya only gets what ya
> pays fer!
>
> Rich
>
> On Jan 18, 2014, at 18:37, Frederick G Street  wrote:
>
> Rich — no direct experience with the Philmore, but at that price point, I
> really doubt that it’s isolating.  I couldn’t find any data sheet from
> their website beyond just a catalog page.
>
> How about a Charles ISO transformer like the model 93-IXFMR 3/8I-A:
> http://www.marinedeal.com/product_p/s93-ixfmr3-8i-a.htm
>
> It’s a true marine-grade iso transformer, with taps for 120 and 240.
>  Probably a lot safer than something not designed for the marine
> environment; and it’ll take enough load for the entire vessel’s 30A
> service, which the Philmore will not do.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Jan 18, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>
> Has anyone any experience with a Philmore ST3000 Step up/down transformer?
>  A friend is taking his boat to Europe. I can't determine from the web if
> it's a true isolating type or an auto transformer. A Mastervolt isolation
> transformer is way more expensive.
>
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO - LF38
> Halifax NS
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Voltage conversion transformer

2014-01-18 Thread Rich Knowles
All considered or under consideration, thanks. He's asked about the Philmore.

Rich

> On Jan 18, 2014, at 20:54, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> Conversion and isolation transformers take a large amount of space and weigh 
> a ton.  Did you consider a marine charger/inverter or separate charger and 
> inverter.  The chargers are often compatible with a wide range of voltages 
> and frequencies.  The inverter will put out whatever you want based on your 
> purchase location.  Most of your A/C needs are going to be limited to laptop 
> chargers and small electronics.  At most a 700-1000 watt microwave.  These 
> would probably be within the capacity of the charger and inverter.  Of course 
> you could have an air conditioner which would likely be in excess of the 
> inverter.
> 
> I would have to double check but I think my charger provides isolation.  If 
> not you could just disconnect the shore power.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 
>> On Jan 18, 2014 6:27 PM, "Rich Knowles"  wrote:
>> Thanks, Fred. You're echoing my thoughts exactly. Ya only gets what ya pays 
>> fer!
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On Jan 18, 2014, at 18:37, Frederick G Street  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Rich — no direct experience with the Philmore, but at that price point, I 
>>> really doubt that it’s isolating.  I couldn’t find any data sheet from 
>>> their website beyond just a catalog page.
>>> 
>>> How about a Charles ISO transformer like the model 93-IXFMR 3/8I-A:  
>>> http://www.marinedeal.com/product_p/s93-ixfmr3-8i-a.htm
>>> 
>>> It’s a true marine-grade iso transformer, with taps for 120 and 240.  
>>> Probably a lot safer than something not designed for the marine 
>>> environment; and it’ll take enough load for the entire vessel’s 30A 
>>> service, which the Philmore will not do.
>>> 
>>> — Fred
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>> 
 On Jan 18, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
 
 Has anyone any experience with a Philmore ST3000 Step up/down transformer? 
  A friend is taking his boat to Europe. I can't determine from the web if 
 it's a true isolating type or an auto transformer. A Mastervolt isolation 
 transformer is way more expensive. 
 
 Rich Knowles
 INDIGO - LF38
 Halifax NS
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Dennis C.
Peter,

I don't think my buddy and I have any parts for a Mark 1.  I will check with 
him tomorrow.  He may have something in his "gold pile".  We haven't worked on 
a Mark 1 in a long while.

Last Mark 1 I worked on was basically an upgrade to the newer extrusions to get 
rid of the roll pins.

As for the top cap, is the top of the extrusion riding on the barrel of the 
swage eye or on the wire?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Peter Fell 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 3:25 PM
>Subject: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0
> 
>
>
>Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 
Unit 0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.
> 
>Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly 
foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like 
might have been a couple versions of this unit.
> 
>Peter 
Fell
>Sidney, BC
>C&C 27 MkIII
>___
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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Peter Fell
Thanks Dennis

Rides on the barrel of the swage.

I wonder if I can trim this down? I didn’t think by looking at the info 
available online that it should ride on the forestay.

I’m ordering a new genoa within the next two weeks  so now’s the time to 
fix this.

Here are some pictures:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/707/1lxd.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/836/pll3.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/571/fw5u.jpg

That forestay needs to be replaced and currently there is no halyard restrainer 
either. Discussing those with a rigger right now. Of course I could just 
replace the furler as well I’ve gotten some info on new ones. I can get a 
Mark IV Unit 0 for under $1200. Toggle and restrainer and forestay would be 
additional to that. Or a Furlex for about $1600 that includes the restrainer 
and forestay.


From: Dennis C. 
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 5:22 PM
To: Peter Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

Peter,

I don't think my buddy and I have any parts for a Mark 1.  I will check with 
him tomorrow.  He may have something in his "gold pile".  We haven't worked on 
a Mark 1 in a long while.

Last Mark 1 I worked on was basically an upgrade to the newer extrusions to get 
rid of the roll pins.

As for the top cap, is the top of the extrusion riding on the barrel of the 
swage eye or on the wire?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





--
  From: Peter Fell 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 3:25 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0


  Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 Unit 
0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.

  Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly 
foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like 
might have been a couple versions of this unit.

  Peter Fell
  Sidney, BC
  C&C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Peter Fell
Thanks Dennis

Rides on the barrel of the swage.

I wonder if I can trim this down? I didn’t think by looking at the info 
available online that it should ride on the forestay.

I’m ordering a new genoa within the next two weeks  so now’s the time to 
fix this.

Here are some pictures:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/707/1lxd.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/836/pll3.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/571/fw5u.jpg

That forestay needs to be replaced and currently there is no halyard restrainer 
either. Discussing those with a rigger right now. Of course I could just 
replace the furler as well I’ve gotten some info on new ones. I can get a 
Mark IV Unit 0 for under $1200. Toggle and restrainer would be additional to 
that. Or a Furlex for about $1600 that includes toggle, restrainer and forestay.

From: Dennis C. 
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 5:22 PM
To: Peter Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

Peter,

I don't think my buddy and I have any parts for a Mark 1.  I will check with 
him tomorrow.  He may have something in his "gold pile".  We haven't worked on 
a Mark 1 in a long while.

Last Mark 1 I worked on was basically an upgrade to the newer extrusions to get 
rid of the roll pins.

As for the top cap, is the top of the extrusion riding on the barrel of the 
swage eye or on the wire?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





--
  From: Peter Fell 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 3:25 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0


  Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 Unit 
0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.

  Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly 
foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like 
might have been a couple versions of this unit.

  Peter Fell
  Sidney, BC
  C&C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Rich Knowles
Cut some PVC or pex pipe lengthwise to make a bearing and push it into the end 
of the foil. Secure with short self tapping screws through the foil. 

Rich

> On Jan 18, 2014, at 22:29, "Peter Fell"  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dennis
>  
> Rides on the barrel of the swage.
>  
> I wonder if I can trim this down? I didn’t think by looking at the info 
> available online that it should ride on the forestay.
>  
> I’m ordering a new genoa within the next two weeks  so now’s the time to 
> fix this.
>  
> Here are some pictures:
>  
> http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/707/1lxd.jpg
>  
> http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/836/pll3.jpg
>  
> http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/571/fw5u.jpg
>  
> That forestay needs to be replaced and currently there is no halyard 
> restrainer either. Discussing those with a rigger right now. Of course I 
> could just replace the furler as well I’ve gotten some info on new ones. 
> I can get a Mark IV Unit 0 for under $1200. Toggle and restrainer would be 
> additional to that. Or a Furlex for about $1600 that includes toggle, 
> restrainer and forestay.
>  
> From: Dennis C.
> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 5:22 PM
> To: Peter Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0
>  
> Peter,
> 
> I don't think my buddy and I have any parts for a Mark 1.  I will check with 
> him tomorrow.  He may have something in his "gold pile".  We haven't worked 
> on a Mark 1 in a long while.
> 
> Last Mark 1 I worked on was basically an upgrade to the newer extrusions to 
> get rid of the roll pins.
> 
> As for the top cap, is the top of the extrusion riding on the barrel of the 
> swage eye or on the wire?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>  
> From: Peter Fell 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 3:25 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0
>  
> Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 Unit 
> 0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.
>  
> Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
> uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly 
> foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like 
> might have been a couple versions of this unit.
>  
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> C&C 27 MkIII
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

2014-01-18 Thread Frank
Peter,

I replaced my furler last year and have several sections of foil (type that 
uses roll pins) laying on the dock in front of my boat.  It is yours if you can 
get it from my boat to your boat.

Frank Noragon
S/V Cool Change
C&C LF38, S/N 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon

From: Peter Fell 
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 Unit 0 
furling unit that I could borrow and copy.

Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the uppermost 
foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, possibly foil 
connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts list – looks like might 
have been a couple versions of this unit.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII



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Stus-List Speed Vr. Acceleration set up

2014-01-18 Thread Curtis
O.K what is the sail set for Acceleration Versus Speed? After I round the
windward mark no spinnaker and I want to accelerate back to hull speed? How
do I set the sails to get the max takeoff speed?

Thanks.

C&C30 MK1
Curtis.




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*At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.-  Robin Lee
Graham*
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Re: Stus-List Electronics GPS - now lightning

2014-01-18 Thread Wally Bryant
I still put a laptop, portable VHF and GPS in the oven when lightning is 
nearby, but have never been hit.  I sleep with my head two feet away 
from the mast, so if I actually get hit with lightning I probably won't 
ever know if the oven trick worked.



Joe wrote:

The oven-as-Faraday-cage urban legend has been around a long time. 



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Re: Stus-List Speed Vr. Acceleration set up

2014-01-18 Thread Josh Muckley
There is no way to trim for "take off".  There is properly trimmed and
improperly trimmed.  Period.  There are things you can do to move closer
and closer to properly trimmed, but simply trim according to the wind.
More important, enter the rounding wide and exit close to the mark.

So the question you are actually asking is, "How do I trim sails
properly."  To which the answer is quite involved.  At any point while
sailing, the general guide for trimming sails is "when in doubt let it
out".  The other guide is to trim so as to imagine cutting the wind evenly
across both sides of the sail.  I use the windex and trim till the luff
edge is parallel to the windex.  This gives a ruff trim until you have time
to get back and tweek them properly.

Once you get around the mark and the sails are coursely adjusted you and
the crew can work on fine tuning.  Use the tell-tails and boat speed to
tweak in the sails.

The helmsman should be absolutely carefull not to pinch or come up into the
wind.  It is a very delicate balance between sailing too close to the wind
and too far from the mark.

Aside from proper sail trim there are many other factors and tactics for
navigating the boat during a race.  Enough to file many volumes.

Josh
On Jan 18, 2014 11:25 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:

> O.K what is the sail set for Acceleration Versus Speed? After I round the
> windward mark no spinnaker and I want to accelerate back to hull speed? How
> do I set the sails to get the max takeoff speed?
>
> Thanks.
>
> C&C30 MK1
> Curtis.
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. -  Robin Lee
> Graham*
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Electronics GPS - now lightning

2014-01-18 Thread Josh Muckley
Joe,

What do you think/know about bonding strips.  Do we need them?

Josh
On Jan 17, 2014 10:31 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
wrote:

> The oven-as-Faraday-cage urban legend has been around a long time. It *
> *might** work, but having been in the repair biz and having worked on a
> ton of lightning damaged boats, I would NOT COUNT ON IT. The damage can be
> incredibly variable and random. I had lightning blow my VHF antenna off and
> not damage the radio and I have seen boats sunk by lightning. In theory a
> closed metal box will conduct all charges around the outer skin and nothing
> inside will be damaged. It does not need to be grounded. Airplanes are like
> this – I have been hit while flying and it did no permanent damage. All the
> power went offline, but we got it back on with the time honored tradition
> of resetting the switches a couple of times ;)
>
>
>
> Do make sure a heavy cable connects the base of the mast to a keelbolt.
> That helps as much as anything.
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina C&C 35 MK I*
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Speed Vr. Acceleration set up

2014-01-18 Thread Jim Watts
The quick way is to start your engine and kick it up to 3000 RPM, but you
may take a hit in PHRF for that.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 18 January 2014 21:28, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> There is no way to trim for "take off".  There is properly trimmed and
> improperly trimmed.  Period.  There are things you can do to move closer
> and closer to properly trimmed, but simply trim according to the wind.
> More important, enter the rounding wide and exit close to the mark.
>
> So the question you are actually asking is, "How do I trim sails
> properly."  To which the answer is quite involved.  At any point while
> sailing, the general guide for trimming sails is "when in doubt let it
> out".  The other guide is to trim so as to imagine cutting the wind evenly
> across both sides of the sail.  I use the windex and trim till the luff
> edge is parallel to the windex.  This gives a ruff trim until you have time
> to get back and tweek them properly.
>
> Once you get around the mark and the sails are coursely adjusted you and
> the crew can work on fine tuning.  Use the tell-tails and boat speed to
> tweak in the sails.
>
> The helmsman should be absolutely carefull not to pinch or come up into
> the wind.  It is a very delicate balance between sailing too close to the
> wind and too far from the mark.
>
> Aside from proper sail trim there are many other factors and tactics for
> navigating the boat during a race.  Enough to file many volumes.
>
> Josh
> On Jan 18, 2014 11:25 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>
>> O.K what is the sail set for Acceleration Versus Speed? After I round the
>> windward mark no spinnaker and I want to accelerate back to hull speed? How
>> do I set the sails to get the max takeoff speed?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> C&C30 MK1
>> Curtis.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. -  Robin Lee
>> Graham*
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Speed Vr. Acceleration set up

2014-01-18 Thread Curtis
Yes Your right Jim That HC of 171 will go right the window.

*"The helmsman should be absolutely carefull not to pinch or come up into
the wind.  It is a very delicate balance between sailing too close to the
wind and too far from the mark."*


So would it be better for me just starting out  racing to stay as close to
abeam as possible even if I have to tack more often  instead of trying to
sail to close?  Do my long leg first, Stay in the middle, Tack early?






On Sun, Jan 19, 2014 at 12:37 AM, Jim Watts  wrote:

> The quick way is to start your engine and kick it up to 3000 RPM, but you
> may take a hit in PHRF for that.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On 18 January 2014 21:28, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
>> There is no way to trim for "take off".  There is properly trimmed and
>> improperly trimmed.  Period.  There are things you can do to move closer
>> and closer to properly trimmed, but simply trim according to the wind.
>> More important, enter the rounding wide and exit close to the mark.
>>
>> So the question you are actually asking is, "How do I trim sails
>> properly."  To which the answer is quite involved.  At any point while
>> sailing, the general guide for trimming sails is "when in doubt let it
>> out".  The other guide is to trim so as to imagine cutting the wind evenly
>> across both sides of the sail.  I use the windex and trim till the luff
>> edge is parallel to the windex.  This gives a ruff trim until you have time
>> to get back and tweek them properly.
>>
>> Once you get around the mark and the sails are coursely adjusted you and
>> the crew can work on fine tuning.  Use the tell-tails and boat speed to
>> tweak in the sails.
>>
>> The helmsman should be absolutely carefull not to pinch or come up into
>> the wind.  It is a very delicate balance between sailing too close to the
>> wind and too far from the mark.
>>
>> Aside from proper sail trim there are many other factors and tactics for
>> navigating the boat during a race.  Enough to file many volumes.
>>
>> Josh
>> On Jan 18, 2014 11:25 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>>
>>>  O.K what is the sail set for Acceleration Versus Speed? After I round
>>> the windward mark no spinnaker and I want to accelerate back to hull speed?
>>> How do I set the sails to get the max takeoff speed?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> C&C30 MK1
>>> Curtis.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> *At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. -  Robin Lee
>>> Graham*
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>>
>>
>
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>


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*At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.-  Robin Lee
Graham*
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