Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

[Bill Bina]

  
  
AGM batteries are available as deep
  cycle batteries, as capable, or more capable than any flooded or
  gel cell deep cycle battery. The reason all AGM batteries are okay
  as starting batteries is because AGM batteries have inherently low
  internal resistance, which allows them to deliver higher amperage
  for short periods when it is needed. A flooded Deep Cycle battery
  has higher internal resistance and cannot deliver the higher
  amperage (cold cranking amps) needed for use as a starting
  battery.  
  
  AGM's deep cycle as well, and as long or longer, than any flooded
  deep cell battery. Just like a flooded deep cycle battery, they
  should not be cycled lower than 50%. Some advertising copy for
  deep cycle AGM batteries is a little misleading, and claims that
  the battery is "specially designed to also be used as a starting
  battery". This is bunk as far as the name brand AGM's. Their
  ability to be used as a starting battery is due to the fact that
  AGM's all have this ability due to talent they are born with. Just
  the same, an AGM that is going to be used as a starting battery
  should be upsized to the next size if there is room, because for a
  given size they do not deliver quite as many cold cranking amps as
  a "real" starting battery that has thinner plates. Some retailers,
  such as Walmart DO sell some batteries that they claim are dual
  purpose starting/deep cycle batteries. These are not true deep
  cycle batteries, and if used for deep cycle applications, will not
  last very long.  Stick to Lifeline, Trojan, or similar brands and
  you will get a true deep cycle AGM when you ask for one. 
  
  Any battery that has been run flat should be considered a
  candidate for replacement, regardless of being AGM, Gel or
  Flooded. It's useful life has been shortened, even if it otherwise
  seems "okay". If it is in a non-critical application, you can try
  to get another year or two out of it, but I wouldn't go across an
  ocean with it, even if I had to pay full price to replace it.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 8/27/2013 10:59 PM, Rick Brass wrote:


  
  
  
  
  
Chuck;
 
Whether
he is on a mooring is sort of immaterial. David already
indicated that the engine alternator had no effect on the
dead battery during extended period (3 or 4 hours IIRC) of
running. Below he says he used a common trick to show enough
battery voltage for his smart charger to turn on and has
managed to get the dead battery charged up to 10 volts after
several hours on charge.
 
I
agree with your suggestion to get the battery charged up and
let it rest to see if it will actually hold a charge. Others
have suggested that the battery be load tested after
charging, which is also a very good idea – and something
just about any auto parts store will do at no cost.
 
I
personally think the battery is a good candidate for
warranty replacement, unless David is very lucky. AGM
batteries are designed to be automotive starting batteries –
designed to be at 85-90% state of charge or higher at all
times. They don’t last long in deep cycle use. If you run
one of them dead, it is really hard to get them to ever come
back.
 
 
Rick
Brass
Washington,
NC
  


  


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Stus-List Edson pedestal - taking off the compass

[Marek Dziedzic]

Hi,

I bet that this topic has been discussed, but I would appreciate some hints.

I have a problem with the transmission lever/cable - the transmission barely 
engages (and sometimes does not), when I switch to forward - the lever hits the 
binnacle. The easy option would be to make adjustments at the transmission end; 
however, I am at the end of the adjustments. 

I looked, briefly, at removing the compass, but I could not find any bolts or 
other fasteners that hold it to the pedestal.

I would appreciate any hints on how to remove the compass, so that I could get 
into the belly of the pedestal and adjust the transmission cable.

thanks

Marek Dziedzic
in Ottawa___
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Re: Stus-List Edson pedestal - taking off the compass

[Indigo]

Marek
You don't specify the C&C model, but if you have anything like mine. You have 
to remove two small bolts that hold the compass light, then lift off the 
stainless compass housing. That will give you access to the long bolts that 
hold the top pieces of the binnacle together


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Aug 28, 2013, at 8:19, "Marek Dziedzic"  wrote:

> Hi,
>  
> I bet that this topic has been discussed, but I would appreciate some hints.
>  
> I have a problem with the transmission lever/cable - the transmission barely 
> engages (and sometimes does not), when I switch to forward - the lever hits 
> the binnacle. The easy option would be to make adjustments at the 
> transmission end; however, I am at the end of the adjustments.
>  
> I looked, briefly, at removing the compass, but I could not find any bolts or 
> other fasteners that hold it to the pedestal.
>  
> I would appreciate any hints on how to remove the compass, so that I could 
> get into the belly of the pedestal and adjust the transmission cable.
>  
> thanks
>  
> Marek Dziedzic
> in Ottawa
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Re: Stus-List Edson pedestal - taking off the compass

[Andrew Burton]

I think that's how it is on my 40, too.
Andy

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

+401 965 5260


On Aug 28, 2013, at 8:45, Indigo  wrote:

> Marek
> You don't specify the C&C model, but if you have anything like mine. You have 
> to remove two small bolts that hold the compass light, then lift off the 
> stainless compass housing. That will give you access to the long bolts that 
> hold the top pieces of the binnacle together
> 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> On Aug 28, 2013, at 8:19, "Marek Dziedzic"  wrote:
> 
>> Hi,
>>  
>> I bet that this topic has been discussed, but I would appreciate some hints.
>>  
>> I have a problem with the transmission lever/cable - the transmission barely 
>> engages (and sometimes does not), when I switch to forward - the lever hits 
>> the binnacle. The easy option would be to make adjustments at the 
>> transmission end; however, I am at the end of the adjustments.
>>  
>> I looked, briefly, at removing the compass, but I could not find any bolts 
>> or other fasteners that hold it to the pedestal.
>>  
>> I would appreciate any hints on how to remove the compass, so that I could 
>> get into the belly of the pedestal and adjust the transmission cable.
>>  
>> thanks
>>  
>> Marek Dziedzic
>> in Ottawa
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Re: Stus-List Removing Compass & Internal Pedestal Access

[Briard6]

It's the same on my Landfall 39. Just remove 2  screws holding the compass 
light in place and then slide the stainless surround  up and off.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
Landfall 39___
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Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

[Michael Clow]

We had a similar problem with our 2GM15 and we removed the cable and 
lubricated.  Another major aspect was that the bracket holding the cable near 
the transmission shift lever was not properly aligned.  Once we did these two 
things is was very smooth.

 

Michael Clow

  Desire, C&C 32, Lake St. Clair

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

 

Sounds to that your cable, good as it feels when unloaded, may be quite worn 
internally and is binding as soon as you load it up. I suggest replacing it. 

Rich Knowles

Indigo - C&C LF38

Halifax - Nova Scotia

 


On 2013-08-27, at 21:46, Curtis  wrote:

2gm20F sorry.. With the to lever push pull cable. Wheel steering. Right side 
throttle, Left side Trans shifter

 

 

On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 8:38 PM, Curtis  wrote:




I have just installed a new tome engine in my 30MK1 The shift cable is good 
condition. Disconnected from the shift lever, I get smooth action all the way 
threw the stroke. The shift lever on the tranny smooth as well, But when I hook 
them up it takes a lot of pressure to move? The old engine I just took out was 
a bit hard to shift as well? Any help on this would be great. Has anybody had 
this problem? I need help. I have spent 4 evenings working on it moving it 
around trying to re-adjust it. I'm at my end??

Help...

Thanks, lt

-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat


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-- 
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really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

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Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

[Derek Leck]

Ditto that and additionally I found the bracket which holds the cable was 
bolted on too tight which also restricted operation.  Same was true with my 
throttle cable.

Derek
33 Mark II - Melan




: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :

Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299
[http://www.metzgers.com/misc/EmailSig.jpg]
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Clow
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

We had a similar problem with our 2GM15 and we removed the cable and 
lubricated.  Another major aspect was that the bracket holding the cable near 
the transmission shift lever was not properly aligned.  Once we did these two 
things is was very smooth.

Michael Clow
Desire, C&C 32, Lake St. Clair



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

Sounds to that your cable, good as it feels when unloaded, may be quite worn 
internally and is binding as soon as you load it up. I suggest replacing it.

Rich Knowles
Indigo - C&C LF38
Halifax - Nova Scotia


On 2013-08-27, at 21:46, Curtis mailto:cpt.b...@gmail.com>> 
wrote:
2gm20F sorry.. With the to lever push pull cable. Wheel steering. Right side 
throttle, Left side Trans shifter


On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 8:38 PM, Curtis 
mailto:cpt.b...@gmail.com>> wrote:

I have just installed a new tome engine in my 30MK1 The shift cable is good 
condition. Disconnected from the shift lever, I get smooth action all the way 
threw the stroke. The shift lever on the tranny smooth as well, But when I hook 
them up it takes a lot of pressure to move? The old engine I just took out was 
a bit hard to shift as well? Any help on this would be great. Has anybody had 
this problem? I need help. I have spent 4 evenings working on it moving it 
around trying to re-adjust it. I'm at my end??
Help...
Thanks, lt
--
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

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really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Stus-List C&C 35-2 for sale in STL

[Ronald B. Frerker]

A friend here in STL put his boat up for sale on Craig's list for 10k$ or best 
offer.
He's moving to a landlocked area so he's motivated to sell.  It has an A-4 and 
has been on fresh water for the last 30yrs that I know of.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30




 From: OldSteveH 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails
 

Brent I am considering re-bedding my toe rails, but keep putting it off
because it's a daunting task.
Is there anything you did or would do again which made the job easier?
What solvent did you use to remove the old butyl rubber?
What complications did you encounter (eg screws seized or stripped)
What manpower did you have - eg one inside, one outside or is there a way to
do it solo?

Thanks

Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON




--

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 17:38:24 -0500
From: Brent Driedger 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Caulking is an ok and very temporary repair but only if you want to do the
job every 5 months. I removed Wild Rover's toe rails and re-bed with 1/8
butyl tape 5 years ago and have had no problems. I would use 1/16 if I did
it again but at least I know I can do it again as I did not use and marine
adhesive. 
The black toe rail expands and contracts a lot and at a different ratio than
the fibreglass so I figured the highly flexible butyl would be the best
choice.  I'm glad I did it. As the years go on I know I'll need to torque
the bolts a bit and eventually re-do but that's boat ownership. Maintenance
never stops. 

Brent D
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg
C&C 27-5

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-08-26, at 2:25 PM, Ed Dooley  wrote:

> I?m not an expert in this at all, but when I first thought of doing it on
my 24?, and using
> something out of a tube, I was told by many to use marine grade butyl
tape, nothing else.
> Ed
> 
> 
> 
> From: 
> 
> I need to recaulk the toerails on my 32' C&C.  My thought is to remove the
bolts, clean out all the old material between the underside of the deck and
the rubrail and between the bottom of the toerail and the top of the deck.
I would use Skiaflex to reseal these areas and Buytul tape for the bolt
holes.  Any thoughts, experiences?
> Jesse A. Rieber
> Witch of the Westmoreland
> 32' C&C, Cotuit, Cape Cod, MA
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Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

[Curtis]

"I found the bracket which holds the cable was bolted on too tight
which also restricted operation" Now this might make sense... I will
try to losen it up a bit and see if it helps. It's so Frustrating It
is very touchey

On 8/28/13, Derek Leck  wrote:
> Ditto that and additionally I found the bracket which holds the cable was
> bolted on too tight which also restricted operation.  Same was true with my
> throttle cable.
>
> Derek
> 33 Mark II - Melan
>
>
>
>
> : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
>
> Derek Leck  : :  Account Manager
> METZGERS  : :  www.metzgers.com
> 419.861.8611 x4824  : :  fax: 419.861.3299
> [http://www.metzgers.com/misc/EmailSig.jpg]
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Clow
> Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 9:03 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F
>
> We had a similar problem with our 2GM15 and we removed the cable and
> lubricated.  Another major aspect was that the bracket holding the cable
> near the transmission shift lever was not properly aligned.  Once we did
> these two things is was very smooth.
>
> Michael Clow
> Desire, C&C 32, Lake St. Clair
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
> Knowles
> Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:25 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F
>
> Sounds to that your cable, good as it feels when unloaded, may be quite worn
> internally and is binding as soon as you load it up. I suggest replacing
> it.
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo - C&C LF38
> Halifax - Nova Scotia
>
>
> On 2013-08-27, at 21:46, Curtis
> mailto:cpt.b...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> 2gm20F sorry.. With the to lever push pull cable. Wheel steering. Right side
> throttle, Left side Trans shifter
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 8:38 PM, Curtis
> mailto:cpt.b...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> I have just installed a new tome engine in my 30MK1 The shift cable is good
> condition. Disconnected from the shift lever, I get smooth action all the
> way threw the stroke. The shift lever on the tranny smooth as well, But when
> I hook them up it takes a lot of pressure to move? The old engine I just
> took out was a bit hard to shift as well? Any help on this would be great.
> Has anybody had this problem? I need help. I have spent 4 evenings working
> on it moving it around trying to re-adjust it. I'm at my end??
> Help...
> Thanks, lt
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> ___
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>


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Re: Stus-List Edson pedestal - taking off the compass

[Sébastien Lemieux]

Hello Marek,

  The original compass on mine appeared to have been modified by the previous 
owner.  It was held in place by screws on the upper part of the chrome collar 
holding the compass.  There was screw covers need the bottom part of the collar 
that were not covering anything in my case, they could look a bit like rivet 
but are easy to pop out using a thin blade, you might find your screws there.

  This spring, I installed a new compass and the attachment is now as Jonathan 
described (under the light cover of the compass).

  There is not much adjustment to be made that the pedestal end of the 
transmission cable on my boat.  Below is a link of what I found when I first 
opened up the pedestal.  In mine, I have two position to attach the 
transmission cable and it was already attached the the position with the most 
travel.  My lever also hits the SS guard in forward position but I the 
transmission is solidly engaged at that point.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/60uqvkuvcc3yvir/DSC_0019.jpg

Hope this helps,

Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Lake Champlain


On 2013-08-28, at 8:19 , Marek Dziedzic  wrote:

> Hi,
>  
> I bet that this topic has been discussed, but I would appreciate some hints.
>  
> I have a problem with the transmission lever/cable - the transmission barely 
> engages (and sometimes does not), when I switch to forward - the lever hits 
> the binnacle. The easy option would be to make adjustments at the 
> transmission end; however, I am at the end of the adjustments.
>  
> I looked, briefly, at removing the compass, but I could not find any bolts or 
> other fasteners that hold it to the pedestal.
>  
> I would appreciate any hints on how to remove the compass, so that I could 
> get into the belly of the pedestal and adjust the  transmission cable.
>  
> thanks
>  
> Marek Dziedzic
> in Ottawa
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Re: Stus-List Edson pedestal - taking off the compass

[Edd Schillay]

Mark,

On mine, there are two plastic grey "panels" that are snapped in place 
that cover the screws. Remove those and you'll be able to get the cover off and 
then you'll have access to get the whole compass off. 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website

On Aug 28, 2013, at 8:19 AM, "Marek Dziedzic"  wrote:

> Hi,
>  
> I bet that this topic has been discussed, but I would appreciate some hints.
>  
> I have a problem with the transmission lever/cable - the transmission barely 
> engages (and sometimes does not), when I switch to forward - the lever hits 
> the binnacle. The easy option would be to make adjustments at the 
> transmission end; however, I am at the end of the adjustments.
>  
> I looked, briefly, at removing the compass, but I could not find any bolts or 
> other fasteners that hold it to the pedestal.
>  
> I would appreciate any hints on how to remove the compass, so that I could 
> get into the belly of the pedestal and adjust the transmission cable.
>  
> thanks
>  
> Marek Dziedzic
> in Ottawa
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Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

[David Knecht]

As usual, thank you all for your thoughts.  The battery is up to 11.3 volts 
after 1.5 days on the smart charger.  I will definitely have it load tested 
when it is done charging.  As to warranty replacement- the discharge was my 
fault.  Would they still replace it under warranty under those circumstances?  
When I call Mid-state should I already have done the load testing?  Do I need 
it at steady state on the recharge before I load test it?  

On Aug 27, 2013, at 8:17 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

> Not sure I like this?  You never answered if you or on a mooring?
Mooring
> What are you charging with? 
Alternator on boat.  Now at home using smart charger.  Considering adding a 
solar panel since the boat sits a week at a time often with no power at the 
mooring just to be topped up without having to run the engine.  I run the 
engine quite minimally because I can sail off and on the mooring, so this would 
seem a good idea.
> The engine alternator or shorepower?  Is the battery completely isolated?
Isolated from what?  
> I think you should remove every wire from the batteries and charge 
> individually with a good charger connected to shorepower. 
That is what I am doing at home.  NO way to do it on the boat.  
> Then let sit overnight to be sure it holds the charge on it's own.  
Before I return it to the boat, I will do that and load test it.  BTW, if this 
is delayed, any reason I can't use one of my older wet cell batteries in its 
place, or is mixing AGM and wet cell a bad idea.
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "David Knecht" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:22:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery
> 
>  I used a pair of jumper cables and hooked up the dead battery in parallel 
> with an old but servicable battery I had at home and hooked up the charger to 
> it.  After an hour I had about 7 volts.  Now the charger would recognize the 
> dead AGM and is charging it.  It was up to 10V overnight, so I am hoping it 
> will finish the job.  If so, then I am back to figuring out what drained it 
> or if there is an alternator problem.   I presume if I measure the voltage at 
> each battery while the engine is running it will be  the charging voltage?  
> If I get 14.4 volts or so at both batteries, then presumably my alternator is 
> OK?   Then I would be back to the propane alarm issue as the most likely 
> culprit.  Does that plan sound reasonable?  Thanks- Dave
>   
> On Aug 26, 2013, at 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody  wrote:
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> 1. - yes, a new battery can fail and a two month old battery is still on 
> warranty. Give it back for a load test / replacement.
> 
> 2. - The AGM will charge from an alternator if discharged but may not charge 
> from a smart regulator as the have a dumb battery validation check. If you 
> want to use a smart charge on a really flat battery then you need to jump 
> start the process with a dumb charger or another battery.
>  - you should see life in the battery after a half hour on the alternator but 
> a few hours for a good bulk charge
> 
> You may have a fried diode in the alternator which can deplete a battery when 
> the engine is not running (and not isolated from the battery) and give 
> insufficient charge voltage.
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> 
> At 07:04 AM 26/08/2013, you wrote:
> I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat.  First the 
> good news:  based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue 
> seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started 
> smoothly every time.  The only strange thing is that all the directions I 
> have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while 
> pushing the start button.  However, on mine, the engine will not turn over 
> unless I release the glow plug button.  Also, the GPS restarts each time I 
> start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but 
> neither is a serious problem at this point.  
> Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and 
> prop as best I could.  The shaft and prop were completely crusted with 
> barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job.  I may try 
> Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer.
> 
> So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely 
> dead.  This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and 
> propane fume alarm (that is all I know of).  The batteries are 2 month old 
> Power-tech AGM group 27's.  I could not get much of any charge after a day of 
> running the engine for a few hours totals.
> Questions: 
> 1.  do new batteries fail at some rate?
> 2.  Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged?  If so, 
> roughly how long would it take?  I brought it home and tried to use my smart 
> charger and that is not charging it at all (the charging light does not

Re: Stus-List Edson pedestal - taking off the compass

[Joel Aronson]

The cable is also held in place by a clamp with an acorn nut on the aft
side of the pedestal about knee high.  I'm told it is a PIA to get the new
cable in the clamp.


On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 10:00 AM, Sébastien Lemieux
wrote:

> Hello Marek,
>
>   The original compass on mine appeared to have been modified by the
> previous owner.  It was held in place by screws on the upper part of the
> chrome collar holding the compass.  There was screw covers need the bottom
> part of the collar that were not covering anything in my case, they could
> look a bit like rivet but are easy to pop out using a thin blade, you might
> find your screws there.
>
>   This spring, I installed a new compass and the attachment is now as
> Jonathan described (under the light cover of the compass).
>
>   There is not much adjustment to be made that the pedestal end of the
> transmission cable on my boat.  Below is a link of what I found when I
> first opened up the pedestal.  In mine, I have two position to attach the
> transmission cable and it was already attached the the position with the
> most travel.  My lever also hits the SS guard in forward position but I the
> transmission is solidly engaged at that point.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/60uqvkuvcc3yvir/DSC_0019.jpg
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Sébastien Lemieux
> Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
> Lake Champlain
>
>
> On 2013-08-28, at 8:19 , Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
>
>  Hi,
>
> I bet that this topic has been discussed, but I would appreciate some
> hints.
>
> I have a problem with the transmission lever/cable - the transmission
> barely engages (and sometimes does not), when I switch to forward - the
> lever hits the binnacle. The easy option would be to make adjustments at
> the transmission end; however, I am at the end of the adjustments.
>
> I looked, briefly, at removing the compass, but I could not find any bolts
> or other fasteners that hold it to the pedestal.
>
> I would appreciate any hints on how to remove the compass, so that I could
> get into the belly of the pedestal and adjust the transmission cable.
>
> thanks
>
> Marek Dziedzic
> in Ottawa
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

[Marek Dziedzic]

Apparently, alignment of the transmission cable (at the transmission end) is 
important. Edson installation manual says that it should not be flexed more 
than 10 degrees (up or down). This means that the cable should point about half 
way into the shift lever (when it is in its neutral position).

Marek___
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Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Ron Kaye]

We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have finally
got her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and
base coat etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights
and a new head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy
her company very muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in
the Rhode R. to St. Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one
notable exception and even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in
moderate wind.  On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used
this for years) decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard
circles to starboard.  We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the
Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods,
turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything
short of "percussive maintenance" - which might actually have been a good
idea.  I cant find anything in the user manual that covers this issue
unless some internal mode got somehow switched.

I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there
might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current
standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive
hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was)
but even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by
Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a
new controller can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any
inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really should just be
completely replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid
that.
Thanks for any help with this.

-- 
Ron & Lisa
To be Renamed
1986
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Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Petar Horvatic]

Locate your fluxgate compass, nothing magnetic near it at all angles of
heel.  I had a case where a cordless drill would slide down one end of the
drawer under my navstation and come in closer proximity to the fluxgate
(located under the chart table), all of sudden I was doing circles.  Also on
my boat, navstation has a large storage area in the table, and I tend to
throw electronic gadgets in there.  When the boat heels all that slides
around and would cause the same problem.

Magnetic would be, laptops, cellphones, cordless drill, cool sailing gadgets
they giveaway at boat shows are often the culprit if they have magnets.  You
can do a test and bring an item close to your pedestal compass and see if it
causes a deflection.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 11:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

 

We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have finally
got her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and base
coat etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights and a
new head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy her
company very muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in the Rhode
R. to St. Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one notable
exception and even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in moderate wind.
On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used this for years)
decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard circles to
starboard.  We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the Standby and
Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods, turned the unit
off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything short of "percussive
maintenance" - which might actually have been a good idea.  I cant find
anything in the user manual that covers this issue unless some internal mode
got somehow switched. 

 

I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there
might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current
standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive
hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was)
but even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by
Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a
new controller can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any
inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really should just be completely
replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid that.


Thanks for any help with this.  


-- 
Ron & Lisa 

To be Renamed

1986 

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Re: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

[Frederick G Street]

Jim does great work -- but just be aware that's he's very busy, and it may take 
quite a while to get onto his schedule, and then a while for him to get to your 
job.  And I'd suggest calling on the phone until you actually get to talk with 
him; sometimes emails might not get returned in a timely fashion.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 27, 2013, at 7:15 PM, Lee Youngblood  wrote:

> Hi Raymond,
> 
> I'd recommend Jim Welinski  at Ship Shape Canvas - he's a good guy in Duluth.
> They do Boat Covers and more.  This might be old but will give you an idea of 
> the range:  30'=$2200, 40"=$3k Jim Welinski 
>  218-624-5677
> 
> Cheers, Lee

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Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Jack Brennan]

Here’s a link to the ST4000 service manual with many tips on how to 
troubleshoot.

http://www.ganssle.com/jack/st4000.pdf

Mine started swinging wildly during a trip last December after a choppy ride. 
Turns out the tension on the wheel drive had gone out of whack. There is an 
adjustment gizmo operated with an allen wrench on the bottom back side of the 
wheel drive on many st4000s. The manual tells you how to adjust it.

Also, don’t be afraid to fool around with the settings on the autopilot, first 
writing down your initial settings so you can go back to them if needed. The 
factory settings are generic and rarely apply to a particular boat.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




From: Ron Kaye 
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 11:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have finally got 
her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and base coat 
etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights and a new head 
etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy her company very 
muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in the Rhode R. to St. 
Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one notable exception and 
even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in moderate wind.  On the return 
trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used this for years) decided to freak out 
and wanted to turn the boat in hard circles to starboard.  We couldn't get it 
to snap out of it - pushed the Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them 
in for longer periods, turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - 
essentially everything short of "percussive maintenance" - which might actually 
have been a good idea.  I cant find anything in the user manual that covers 
this issue unless some internal mode got somehow switched. 

I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there 
might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current 
standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive 
hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was) but 
even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by Raymarine.  
Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a new controller 
can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any inexpensive way out 
of this?  If the system really should just be completely replaced we'll do that 
but hopefully we can avoid that.

Thanks for any help with this.  

-- 
Ron & Lisa 
To be Renamed
1986 



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Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Eric Frank]

Ron,
I had the same unit in Cat's Paw and a similar thing happened.  In my case, the 
drive motor turning the wheel would only turn one way, so of course the boat 
ended up in a tight circle.  Reversing the leads to the motor showed that the 
motor would turn in both directions, but the drive circuitry in the control 
would only get activated for one direction.

Raymarine said they did not repair these older units, and in the end I bought a 
new controller.  For these "newer" units, it is also necessary to buy a 
Raymarine "computer" to which the controller and the motor (and the fluxgate 
compass) are connected.  All told, it was about a $1000 purchase.

Check to see if the motor only turns one way, like mine did.  If so, then you 
will probably need to buy a new system, even though I am sure the drive 
circuitry could have been repaired by someone who knew how to do it.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


> Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 11:14:16 -0400
> From: Ron Kaye 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot
> 
> On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used
> this for years) decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard
> circles to starboard.  We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the
> Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods,
> turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything
> short of "percussive maintenance" - which might actually have been a good
> idea.  I cant find anything in the user manual that covers this issue
> unless some internal mode got somehow switched.
> 
> I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there
> might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current
> standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive
> hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was)
> but even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by
> Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a
> new controller can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any
> inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really should just be
> completely replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid
> that.
> Thanks for any help with this.
> 
> -- 
> Ron & Lisa
> To be Renamed
> 1986



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Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Mike Brannon]

Ron,  when I was cleaning out some stuff a couple of weeks ago I found the 
original AUTOHELM 4000 and drive unit that came with my boat. It still worked 
when I removed it from the boat.  I wanted to upgrade.   If you are interested 
let me know off line (mbranno...@cox.net). 

Mike
Virginia Lee
C&C 36 CB 
VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
mbranno...@cox.net

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 28, 2013, at 11:14, Ron Kaye  wrote:

> We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have finally got 
> her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and base coat 
> etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights and a new 
> head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy her company 
> very muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in the Rhode R. to St. 
> Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one notable exception and 
> even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in moderate wind.  On the return 
> trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used this for years) decided to freak 
> out and wanted to turn the boat in hard circles to starboard.  We couldn't 
> get it to snap out of it - pushed the Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, 
> held them in for longer periods, turned the unit off and back on, unplugged 
> it - essentially everything short of "percussive maintenance" - which might 
> actually have been a good idea.  I cant find anything in the user manual that 
> co
 vers this issue unless some internal mode got somehow switched. 
>  
> I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there 
> might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current 
> standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive 
> hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was) 
> but even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by 
> Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a new 
> controller can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any 
> inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really should just be completely 
> replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid that.
> Thanks for any help with this. 
> 
> -- 
> Ron & Lisa
> To be Renamed
> 1986
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Edson pedestal - taking off the compass

[Marek Dziedzic]

Bonjour Sébastien,

There should be some adjustment available on the brass "things" attached to the 
levers. A picture I have from the installation manual shows that the other end 
is a threaded rod that threads into the attachment at the end of the 
transmission cable. I was hoping that I can make the adjustment there.

Your picture reveals one more thing, though - that even if there is some 
adjustment room on that rod, there is no way to do it without first dismantling 
pretty much everything around (short of a very small dwarf repelling into the 
pedestal).

I have a couple of somethings that might look like a screw cover. I will try 
popping them out and see.

Btw. my current approach is that if I cannot reasonably easily adjust the cable 
on the pedestal side, I will try to extend the thread on the transmission end 
(by using a die and cutting the thread a few mm longer). This should last till 
the end of the season when I can try a frontal attack, potentially including 
replacing the cable.

thanks

Marek 

Original message below:

Hello Marek,

  The original compass on mine appeared to have been modified by the previous 
owner.  It was held in place by screws on the upper part of the chrome collar 
holding the compass.  There was screw covers need the bottom part of the collar 
that were not covering anything in my case, they could look a bit like rivet 
but are easy to pop out using a thin blade, you might find your screws there.

  This spring, I installed a new compass and the attachment is now as Jonathan 
described (under the light cover of the compass).

  There is not much adjustment to be made that the pedestal end of the 
transmission cable on my boat.  Below is a link of what I found when I first 
opened up the pedestal.  In mine, I have two position to attach the 
transmission cable and it was already attached the the position with the most 
travel.  My lever also hits the SS guard in forward position but I the 
transmission is solidly engaged at that point.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/60uqvkuvcc3yvir/DSC_0019.jpg

Hope this helps,

S?bastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Lake Champlain

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Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Stevan Plavsa]

My ST4000 clutch mechanism failed just two hours from my destination after
several days of sailing on a two week cruise. The lever has a little
off-center lobe (not sure of terminology) and the pins that hold it in
place (hold it off center) are miniscule. When one of those snaps the
clutch will no longer engage because the lobe is then free to turn. I
dropped anchor (for the first time ever) and proceeded to take the whole
thing apart and I finally figured it out, it was a good day for fixing (you
know, first day of restful vacation). I jammed a drill bit into it and
broke it off. I think the drill bit is stronger than the little pins that
were in there.
OT but sort of not in the event that this happens to someone else, it's
fixable but a little hard to get at. I was smart enough to fix it but not
smart enough to put it back together properly. Now you have to pull the
lever UP to engage the clutch, still works fine just took a little getting
used to but it worked all the way home thankfully, our last day was a 17
hour run.
I really love my auto-helm.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 1:05 PM, Mike Brannon  wrote:

> Ron,  when I was cleaning out some stuff a couple of weeks ago I found the
> original AUTOHELM 4000 and drive unit that came with my boat. It still
> worked when I removed it from the boat.  I wanted to upgrade.   If you are
> interested let me know off line (mbranno...@cox.net).
>
> Mike
> Virginia Lee
> C&C 36 CB
> VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
> mbranno...@cox.net
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 28, 2013, at 11:14, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>
> > We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have
> finally got her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting
> and base coat etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running
> lights and a new head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to
> enjoy her company very muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in
> the Rhode R. to St. Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one
> notable exception and even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in
> moderate wind.  On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used
> this for years) decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard
> circles to starboard.  We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the
> Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods,
> turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything
> short of "percussive maintenance" - which might actually have been a good
> idea.  I cant find anything in the user manual that covers this issue
> unless some internal mode got somehow switched.
> >
> > I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping
> there might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by
> current standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the
> same drive hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I
> think it was) but even that system is now older and the kit has been
> discontinued by Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes
> to that where a new controller can interface with the existing drive motor?
> Is there any inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really should just
> be completely replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid that.
> > Thanks for any help with this.
> >
> > --
> > Ron & Lisa
> > To be Renamed
> > 1986
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
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Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Della Barba, Joe]

I am interested also!
Thanks
Joe Della Barba
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike Brannon
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 1:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

Ron,  when I was cleaning out some stuff a couple of weeks ago I found the 
original AUTOHELM 4000 and drive unit that came with my boat. It still worked 
when I removed it from the boat.  I wanted to upgrade.   If you are interested 
let me know off line (mbranno...@cox.net). 

Mike
Virginia Lee
C&C 36 CB
VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
mbranno...@cox.net

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 28, 2013, at 11:14, Ron Kaye  wrote:

> We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have finally got 
> her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and base coat 
> etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights and a new 
> head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy her company 
> very muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in the Rhode R. to St. 
> Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one notable exception and 
> even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in moderate wind.  On the return 
> trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used this for years) decided to freak 
> out and wanted to turn the boat in hard circles to starboard.  We couldn't 
> get it to snap out of it - pushed the Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, 
> held them in for longer periods, turned the unit off and back on, unplugged 
> it - essentially everything short of "percussive maintenance" - which might 
> actually have been a good idea.  I cant find anything in the user manua!
 l that covers this issue unless some internal mode got somehow switched. 
>  
> I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there 
> might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current 
> standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive 
> hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was) 
> but even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by 
> Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a new 
> controller can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any 
> inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really should just be completely 
> replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid that.
> Thanks for any help with this. 
> 
> --
> Ron & Lisa
> To be Renamed
> 1986
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Ron Kaye]

Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it might
be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have stowed a
head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope that's it.
We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.

As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real
deal.   I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's
are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.

At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on spinnaker if
the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a hurry since it
will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there are others they
won't know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising spinnaker I believe
is what we need.   I'd like to get a used one and will check Bacon in
Annapolis.

If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker
for a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz, and seems to
be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I
admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a Doyle
sail.  We are near Annapolis.

As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa
and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that
I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it
to rise up a bit to see under.  Is that about right?

>From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately for
make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list as
well.
Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.

-- 
Ron & Lisa
'86 35/3
To be Renamed
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Tim Goodyear]

Ron, just some background, the fluxgate compass on my 35-3 is in the
hanging locker opposite the head.  Nothing too much to worry about there
for interference - but now that I think about it, I shall be careful of
using the autopilot while charging the handheld VHF on the shelf above...

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT


On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 11:14 AM, Ron Kaye  wrote:

> We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have finally
> got her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and
> base coat etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights
> and a new head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy
> her company very muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in
> the Rhode R. to St. Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one
> notable exception and even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in
> moderate wind.  On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used
> this for years) decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard
> circles to starboard.  We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the
> Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods,
> turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything
> short of "percussive maintenance" - which might actually have been a good
> idea.  I cant find anything in the user manual that covers this issue
> unless some internal mode got somehow switched.
>
> I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping
> there might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by
> current standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the
> same drive hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I
> think it was) but even that system is now older and the kit has been
> discontinued by Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes
> to that where a new controller can interface with the existing drive
> motor? Is there any inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really
> should just be completely replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid
> that.
> Thanks for any help with this.
>
> --
> Ron & Lisa
> To be Renamed
> 1986
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Dennis C.]

Ron,

You're not a pest.  Questions are why this list exists and flourishes.  In 
addition to Stu's diligence.

However, I suspect your spinnaker is not a 3 oz chute.  3/4 oz perhaps?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: Ron Kaye 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 1:36 PM
>Subject: Stus-List A question regarding a sail
> 
>
>
>Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it might be 
>a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have stowed a 
>head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope that's it.   We 
>shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.   
> 
>As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real deal.   
>I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's are not. The 
>PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.  
> 
>At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on spinnaker if 
>the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a hurry since it will 
>usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there are others they won't 
>know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising spinnaker I believe is what we 
>need.   I'd like to get a used one and will check Bacon in Annapolis.
> 
>If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker for 
>a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz, and seems to be 
>well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I admit we 
>haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a Doyle sail.  We are near 
>Annapolis.   
> 
>As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa and 
>a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that I could 
>drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it to rise up 
>a bit to see under.  Is that about right?      
> 
>From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately for 
>make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list as 
>well.   
>
>Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.   
>
>-- 
>Ron & Lisa 
>'86 35/3
>To be Renamed
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Joel Aronson]

Ron, Lisa,

Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat!  I have her twin on South River,
and there is another in Selby as well.

Double check the weight of the chute.  They are usually .5 or .75 ounce.
 My heavy chute is 1.5.

There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there.  Asyms are harder to
find.  Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder.  It will check inventory
of all the major sail suppliers.  I found mine on Craigslist.

Hope to see you on the Bay!

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:

> Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it might
> be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have stowed a
> head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope that's it.
> We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.
>
> As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real
> deal.   I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's
> are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.
>
> At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on
> spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a
> hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there
> are others they won't know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising
> spinnaker I believe is what we need.   I'd like to get a used one and will
> check Bacon in Annapolis.
>
> If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker
> for a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz, and seems to
> be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I
> admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a Doyle
> sail.  We are near Annapolis.
>
> As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa
> and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that
> I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it
> to rise up a bit to see under.  Is that about right?
>
> From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately
> for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list
> as well.
> Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.
>
> --
> Ron & Lisa
> '86 35/3
> To be Renamed
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Ron Kaye]

Ah good to know!  I don't know what the fluxgate compass even looks like
but it will be found and scrutinized Friday night.  We have one of those
deep-cycle utility batteries with jumper cables, AC and cigaretty lighter
type outlets on it.  We keep that down at the bottom of the hanging
locker. That might be the culprit.

On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:54 PM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:

> Ron, just some background, the fluxgate compass on my 35-3 is in the
> hanging locker opposite the head.  Nothing too much to worry about there
> for interference - but now that I think about it, I shall be careful of
> using the autopilot while charging the handheld VHF on the shelf above...
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>
>
>  On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 11:14 AM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>
>> We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have finally
>> got her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and
>> base coat etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights
>> and a new head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy
>> her company very muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in
>> the Rhode R. to St. Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one
>> notable exception and even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in
>> moderate wind.  On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used
>> this for years) decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard
>> circles to starboard.  We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the
>> Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods,
>> turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything
>> short of "percussive maintenance" - which might actually have been a good
>> idea.  I cant find anything in the user manual that covers this issue
>> unless some internal mode got somehow switched.
>>
>> I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping
>> there might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by
>> current standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the
>> same drive hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I
>> think it was) but even that system is now older and the kit has been
>> discontinued by Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes
>> to that where a new controller can interface with the existing drive
>> motor? Is there any inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really
>> should just be completely replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid
>> that.
>> Thanks for any help with this.
>>
>> --
>> Ron & Lisa
>> To be Renamed
>> 1986
>>
>>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Ron
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Ron Kaye]

I'm sure 3/4 oz. is right.  I misremembered that detail.

On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:57 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

>  Ron,
>
> You're not a pest.  Questions are why this list exists and flourishes.  In
> addition to Stu's diligence.
>
> However, I suspect your spinnaker is not a 3 oz chute.  3/4 oz perhaps?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>   --
> *From:* Ron Kaye 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 28, 2013 1:36 PM
> *Subject:* Stus-List A question regarding a sail
>
>  Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it
> might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have
> stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope
> that's it.   We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.
>
> As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real
> deal.   I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's
> are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.
>
> At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on
> spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a
> hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there
> are others they won't know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising
> spinnaker I believe is what we need.   I'd like to get a used one and will
> check Bacon in Annapolis.
>
> If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker
> for a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz, and seems to
> be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I
> admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a Doyle
> sail.  We are near Annapolis.
>
> As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa
> and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that
> I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it
> to rise up a bit to see under.  Is that about right?
>
> From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately
> for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list
> as well.
> Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.
>
> --
> Ron & Lisa
> '86 35/3
> To be Renamed
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Ron
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Ron Kaye]

Joel,
I hate to ask such a personal question, but what size is yours?

On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Ron, Lisa,
>
> Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat!  I have her twin on South River,
> and there is another in Selby as well.
>
> Double check the weight of the chute.  They are usually .5 or .75 ounce.
>  My heavy chute is 1.5.
>
> There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there.  Asyms are harder to
> find.  Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder.  It will check inventory
> of all the major sail suppliers.  I found mine on Craigslist.
>
> Hope to see you on the Bay!
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis
>
>
>  On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>
>>  Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it
>> might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have
>> stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope
>> that's it.   We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.
>>
>> As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real
>> deal.   I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's
>> are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.
>>
>> At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on
>> spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a
>> hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there
>> are others they won't know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising
>> spinnaker I believe is what we need.   I'd like to get a used one and will
>> check Bacon in Annapolis.
>>
>> If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker
>> for a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz, and seems to
>> be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I
>> admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a Doyle
>> sail.  We are near Annapolis.
>>
>> As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa
>> and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that
>> I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it
>> to rise up a bit to see under.  Is that about right?
>>
>> From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately
>> for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list
>> as well.
>> Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.
>>
>> --
>> Ron & Lisa
>> '86 35/3
>> To be Renamed
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Ron
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Joel Aronson]

The newer one look like this:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_30356_-1?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=30356&cid=sc_googlepla&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CMvNp_jqoLkCFY2e4AodiQwAaw#.Uh5KLxsiWSo

It has to be mounted vertically.


On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:04 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:

> Ah good to know!  I don't know what the fluxgate compass even looks like
> but it will be found and scrutinized Friday night.  We have one of those
> deep-cycle utility batteries with jumper cables, AC and cigaretty lighter
> type outlets on it.  We keep that down at the bottom of the hanging
> locker. That might be the culprit.
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:54 PM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>
>> Ron, just some background, the fluxgate compass on my 35-3 is in the
>> hanging locker opposite the head.  Nothing too much to worry about there
>> for interference - but now that I think about it, I shall be careful of
>> using the autopilot while charging the handheld VHF on the shelf above...
>>
>> Tim
>> Mojito
>> C&C 35-3
>> Branford, CT
>>
>>
>>  On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 11:14 AM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>>
>>> We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have
>>> finally got her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting
>>> and base coat etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running
>>> lights and a new head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to
>>> enjoy her company very muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in
>>> the Rhode R. to St. Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one
>>> notable exception and even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in
>>> moderate wind.  On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used
>>> this for years) decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard
>>> circles to starboard.  We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the
>>> Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods,
>>> turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything
>>> short of "percussive maintenance" - which might actually have been a good
>>> idea.  I cant find anything in the user manual that covers this issue
>>> unless some internal mode got somehow switched.
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping
>>> there might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by
>>> current standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the
>>> same drive hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I
>>> think it was) but even that system is now older and the kit has been
>>> discontinued by Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes
>>> to that where a new controller can interface with the existing drive
>>> motor? Is there any inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really
>>> should just be completely replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid
>>> that.
>>>  Thanks for any help with this.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Ron & Lisa
>>> To be Renamed
>>> 1986
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Ron
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Steve Thomas]

Take a look at the ATN web site for their "Tacker" and sock. There are videos 
of both in action. You may not choose to use either
of them but you should at least be aware of these options. There are several 
companies that also make socks. An asymmetric is
still a large sail and you have to get it down some how. The Tacker will give 
you better control over the tack of the sail than
you would have with just a block tied to the anchor roller.

I use both, ATN Tacker and sock, and a symmetrical spinnaker that I fly as an 
asymmetric. The setup has a more restricted range of
sailing angle to the wind, but it works quite well in most conditions where you 
would want such a sail while cruising. The main
advantage of a true asymmetric over my setup is in sailing closer to the wind 
in light air.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Ron Kaye
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 2:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A question regarding a sail


Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it might be a 
magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I
might have stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I 
hope that's it.   We shall see this weekend when we
get back for another trip.

As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real deal.   I 
think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO
and the CO's are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.

At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on spinnaker if the 
wind pipes up and we have to get it under control
in a hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there 
are others they won't know anything about sailing.
So... a crusising spinnaker I believe is what we need.   I'd like to get a used 
one and will check Bacon in Annapolis.

If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker for a 
asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.
3 oz, and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen 
of it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing
out of the bag.  Its a Doyle sail.  We are near Annapolis.

As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa and a 
custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece
of stainless that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of 
line to allow it to rise up a bit to see under.  Is
that about right?

>From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately for 
>make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any
opinions from the list as well.

Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.

--
Ron & Lisa
'86 35/3
To be Renamed
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Joel Aronson]

Ron,

I hate to brag ...  Luff is 44, leach is 39, foot is 28’2”.  It came off a
Tartan 34.  Its cool flying it wing and wing in light air!  If you have any
other racing sails you don't need, let me know!

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:

> Joel,
> I hate to ask such a personal question, but what size is yours?
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>
>> Ron, Lisa,
>>
>> Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat!  I have her twin on South River,
>> and there is another in Selby as well.
>>
>> Double check the weight of the chute.  They are usually .5 or .75 ounce.
>>  My heavy chute is 1.5.
>>
>> There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there.  Asyms are harder to
>> find.  Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder.  It will check inventory
>> of all the major sail suppliers.  I found mine on Craigslist.
>>
>> Hope to see you on the Bay!
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> The Office
>> Annapolis
>>
>>
>>  On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>>
>>>  Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it
>>> might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have
>>> stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope
>>> that's it.   We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.
>>>
>>> As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real
>>> deal.   I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's
>>> are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.
>>>
>>> At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on
>>> spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a
>>> hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there
>>> are others they won't know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising
>>> spinnaker I believe is what we need.   I'd like to get a used one and will
>>> check Bacon in Annapolis.
>>>
>>> If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial
>>> spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz,
>>> and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of
>>> it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a
>>> Doyle sail.  We are near Annapolis.
>>>
>>> As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the
>>> genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless
>>> that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to
>>> allow it to rise up a bit to see under.  Is that about right?
>>>
>>> From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately
>>> for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list
>>> as well.
>>> Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Ron & Lisa
>>> '86 35/3
>>> To be Renamed
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Ron
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Bill Coleman]

Good suggestions so far, also look for  a motor nearby, like your domestic
water pump or bilge kicking on, these can also generate a magnetic field.
The random kicking on is what can be perplexing when you don't know what is
going on.

I got a neat app for my Android called smart tools, that among other things
has a magnetic sensor!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 11:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

 

We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3.  We have finally
got her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and base
coat etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights and a
new head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy her
company very muchl.  Last weekend we sailed from our home port in the Rhode
R. to St. Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one notable
exception and even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in moderate wind.
On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used this for years)
decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard circles to
starboard.  We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the Standby and
Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods, turned the unit
off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything short of "percussive
maintenance" - which might actually have been a good idea.  I cant find
anything in the user manual that covers this issue unless some internal mode
got somehow switched. 

 

I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there
might be a "Doh!" fix.  We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current
standards.  There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive
hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was)
but even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by
Raymarine.  Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a
new controller can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any
inexpensive way out of this?  If the system really should just be completely
replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid that.


Thanks for any help with this.  


-- 
Ron & Lisa 

To be Renamed

1986 

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Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Joel Aronson]

Ron,

I drilled a hole in the bow stem and attached a large shackle to it.  The
downhaul has a snapshackle that attaches to the shackle (or doubles as the
downhaul for the spin pole.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:12 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Ron,
>
> I hate to brag ...  Luff is 44, leach is 39, foot is 28’2”.  It came off
> a Tartan 34.  Its cool flying it wing and wing in light air!  If you have
> any other racing sails you don't need, let me know!
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>> I hate to ask such a personal question, but what size is yours?
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>>
>>> Ron, Lisa,
>>>
>>> Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat!  I have her twin on South River,
>>> and there is another in Selby as well.
>>>
>>> Double check the weight of the chute.  They are usually .5 or .75 ounce.
>>>  My heavy chute is 1.5.
>>>
>>> There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there.  Asyms are harder
>>> to find.  Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder.  It will check
>>> inventory of all the major sail suppliers.  I found mine on Craigslist.
>>>
>>> Hope to see you on the Bay!
>>>
>>> Joel
>>> 35/3
>>> The Office
>>> Annapolis
>>>
>>>
>>>  On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>>>
  Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it
 might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have
 stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope
 that's it.   We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.

 As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real
 deal.   I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's
 are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.

 At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on
 spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a
 hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there
 are others they won't know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising
 spinnaker I believe is what we need.   I'd like to get a used one and will
 check Bacon in Annapolis.

 If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial
 spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz,
 and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of
 it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a
 Doyle sail.  We are near Annapolis.

 As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the
 genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless
 that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to
 allow it to rise up a bit to see under.  Is that about right?

 From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately
 for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list
 as well.
 Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.

 --
 Ron & Lisa
 '86 35/3
 To be Renamed

 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel
>>> 301 541 8551
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Ron
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Ron Kaye]

That's an impressive piece of equipment Joel.  Thanks for letting me know.
(That's what she said har).

Thanks.  The symmetrical spin is the only "extra" sail we have.
On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:12 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Ron,
>
> I hate to brag ...  Luff is 44, leach is 39, foot is 28’2”.  It came off
> a Tartan 34.  Its cool flying it wing and wing in light air!  If you have
> any other racing sails you don't need, let me know!
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>> I hate to ask such a personal question, but what size is yours?
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>>
>>> Ron, Lisa,
>>>
>>> Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat!  I have her twin on South River,
>>> and there is another in Selby as well.
>>>
>>> Double check the weight of the chute.  They are usually .5 or .75 ounce.
>>>  My heavy chute is 1.5.
>>>
>>> There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there.  Asyms are harder
>>> to find.  Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder.  It will check
>>> inventory of all the major sail suppliers.  I found mine on Craigslist.
>>>
>>> Hope to see you on the Bay!
>>>
>>> Joel
>>> 35/3
>>> The Office
>>> Annapolis
>>>
>>>
>>>  On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>>>
  Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it
 might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have
 stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope
 that's it.   We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.

 As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real
 deal.   I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's
 are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.

 At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on
 spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a
 hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there
 are others they won't know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising
 spinnaker I believe is what we need.   I'd like to get a used one and will
 check Bacon in Annapolis.

 If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial
 spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz,
 and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of
 it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a
 Doyle sail.  We are near Annapolis.

 As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the
 genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless
 that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to
 allow it to rise up a bit to see under.  Is that about right?

 From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately
 for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list
 as well.
 Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.

 --
 Ron & Lisa
 '86 35/3
 To be Renamed

 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel
>>> 301 541 8551
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Ron
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Ron
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[dwight veinot]

The CS 30 has a higher speed potential than the C&C 30, check the local
ratings.  They are very good boats, well built and fast...it would be a
good choice IMHO


On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 12:42 PM, Steve Thomas wrote:

> **
>A friend of mine has a CS30, and I sail on it quite a lot. They have an
> excellent interior layout, and the best use of interior space that I have
> seen on a 30 foot sailboat. They were often characterised as "marina
> beaters" because of their good cruising accommodations and relatively short
> overall length. The older design CS33 is very similar, and you gain little
> by paying a marina for the extra 3 feet.
>The boat sails well enough. My only real complaint as compared to my
> C&C27 MKIII is that you don't get at lot of warning when the rudder is
> reaching its limit, and it has an annoying tendency to round up when
> overpowered in a gust. Rudder could have been bigger in my opinion. My
> friend's boat has a tall rig with double spreaders and I think that some
> were built shorter. There were shoal draft versions available as well. All
> that I have seen come with factory self tailers, lines led aft to clutches,
> and an Isomat boom. If you are looking for a well built pocket cruiser,
> these boats are hard to beat. Price has been a bit high for me, they were
> 40 - 50k for a long time around here, or I would probably own one now.
> Don't forget that the Great Lakes boats are usually in better condition
> than the ones down south in salt water.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> -Original Message-
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Dr.
> Mark Bodnar
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:22 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?
>
>
> This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
> I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS boats.
> The 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
> The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space and the
> double rear berth.
>
> Anyone want to check that one out for me???
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
> 
> *Click on image to enlarge *
> 30'  CS 30
>
>- Year: 1988
>- *Current Price: US$ 22,500*
>- Located In Hingham, MA
>- Hull Material: Fiberglass
>- Engine/Fuel Type: Single diesel
>- YW# 3144-2638685
>
>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/CS-30-2638685/Hingham/MA/United-States#.UhyjrBusiSo
>
> --
>
> -
>   Dr. Mark Bodnar
> B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
> Bedford Chiropracticwww.bedfordchiro.ca
> -
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
<>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Andrew Burton]

I second the use of an ATN sock for hoisting and dousing the sail. With a
very little practice they work very well. I wouldn't worry too much about
your kite being symmetric. the thing that throws people is the hassle of
dealing with a pole. You don't really need it. You aren't trying to get
maximum efficiency out of your sail, you just want it to work. And you can
fly a symmetric kite exactly the same way you'd fly an asymmetric one. I
would be careful about tacking it to the anchor roller assembly. It wasn't
designed for upward loads. Satisfy yourself that it's going to be strong
enough before you use it. I set my kite from just inside the headstay and
it works fine.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:15 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:

> That's an impressive piece of equipment Joel.  Thanks for letting me
> know.  (That's what she said har).
>
> Thanks.  The symmetrical spin is the only "extra" sail we have.
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:12 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>
>> Ron,
>>
>> I hate to brag ...  Luff is 44, leach is 39, foot is 28’2”.  It came off
>> a Tartan 34.  Its cool flying it wing and wing in light air!  If you have
>> any other racing sails you don't need, let me know!
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> The Office
>> Annapolis
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>>
>>> Joel,
>>> I hate to ask such a personal question, but what size is yours?
>>>
>>> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>>>
 Ron, Lisa,

 Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat!  I have her twin on South
 River, and there is another in Selby as well.

 Double check the weight of the chute.  They are usually .5 or .75
 ounce.  My heavy chute is 1.5.

 There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there.  Asyms are harder
 to find.  Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder.  It will check
 inventory of all the major sail suppliers.  I found mine on Craigslist.

 Hope to see you on the Bay!

 Joel
 35/3
 The Office
 Annapolis


  On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye wrote:

>  Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking it
> might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have
> stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope
> that's it.   We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.
>
> As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real
> deal.   I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's
> are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.
>
> At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on
> spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a
> hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there
> are others they won't know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising
> spinnaker I believe is what we need.   I'd like to get a used one and will
> check Bacon in Annapolis.
>
> If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial
> spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz,
> and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen 
> of
> it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a
> Doyle sail.  We are near Annapolis.
>
> As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the
> genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of 
> stainless
> that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to
> allow it to rise up a bit to see under.  Is that about right?
>
> From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail
> appropriately for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions
> from the list as well.
> Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.
>
> --
> Ron & Lisa
> '86 35/3
> To be Renamed
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Ron
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Ron
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphot

Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Alan Bergen]

My fluxgate compass is mounted next to the port settee, close to the galley and 
near the boat's centerline. If you have any iron/steel items near it, it will 
mess up your autopilot activity. I also found that my vhf interferes with the 
autopilot. Try turning off your VHF when troubleshooting it. 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Ron Kaye]

It seems we are in the market for an ATN sock and a tacker in the near term
and perhaps a lighter weight assym chute next season. Thanks all.

On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Andrew Burton wrote:

>  I second the use of an ATN sock for hoisting and dousing the sail. With
> a very little practice they work very well. I wouldn't worry too much about
> your kite being symmetric. the thing that throws people is the hassle of
> dealing with a pole. You don't really need it. You aren't trying to get
> maximum efficiency out of your sail, you just want it to work. And you can
> fly a symmetric kite exactly the same way you'd fly an asymmetric one. I
> would be careful about tacking it to the anchor roller assembly. It wasn't
> designed for upward loads. Satisfy yourself that it's going to be strong
> enough before you use it. I set my kite from just inside the headstay and
> it works fine.
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:15 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>
>> That's an impressive piece of equipment Joel.  Thanks for letting me
>> know.  (That's what she said har).
>>
>> Thanks.  The symmetrical spin is the only "extra" sail we have.
>>  On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:12 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>>
>>> Ron,
>>>
>>> I hate to brag ...  Luff is 44, leach is 39, foot is 28’2”.  It came
>>> off a Tartan 34.  Its cool flying it wing and wing in light air!  If you
>>> have any other racing sails you don't need, let me know!
>>>
>>> Joel
>>> 35/3
>>> The Office
>>> Annapolis
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Ron Kaye  wrote:
>>>
 Joel,
 I hate to ask such a personal question, but what size is yours?

 On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson 
 wrote:

> Ron, Lisa,
>
> Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat!  I have her twin on South
> River, and there is another in Selby as well.
>
> Double check the weight of the chute.  They are usually .5 or .75
> ounce.  My heavy chute is 1.5.
>
> There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there.  Asyms are harder
> to find.  Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder.  It will check
> inventory of all the major sail suppliers.  I found mine on Craigslist.
>
> Hope to see you on the Bay!
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis
>
>
>  On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye wrote:
>
>>  Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm.  I'm thinking
>> it might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might 
>> have
>> stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table.  Maybe... I hope
>> that's it.   We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip.
>>
>> As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker.  The real
>> deal.   I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's
>> are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years.
>>
>> At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on
>> spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a
>> hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if 
>> there
>> are others they won't know anything about sailing.  So... a crusising
>> spinnaker I believe is what we need.   I'd like to get a used one and 
>> will
>> check Bacon in Annapolis.
>>
>> If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial
>> spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size.  Its solid red.  3 oz,
>> and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen 
>> of
>> it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag.  Its a
>> Doyle sail.  We are near Annapolis.
>>
>> As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the
>> genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of 
>> stainless
>> that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to
>> allow it to rise up a bit to see under.  Is that about right?
>>
>> From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail
>> appropriately for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any 
>> opinions
>> from the list as well.
>> Thanks again.  Sorry to be a pests with all these questions.
>>
>> --
>> Ron & Lisa
>> '86 35/3
>> To be Renamed
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


 --
 Ron
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphot

Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Martin DeYoung]

Add another positive vote for the ATN sock.

I have used one on Calypso's spinny for over 10 years.  We commonly double hand 
with the spinny including dip pole gypes.  The ATN sock gives a safety bail out 
for when the wind increases or something goes sideways (for example I 
accidently release the sheet during a gybe).  Also, if sailing shorthanded 
having the ATN sock allows for a quick douse in case of a MOB.

If ATN offers a carbon fiber "horse collar" it may be worth the cost to avoid 
the heavy fiberglass.  The grey or different color stripe up the sock indicates 
where the control lines are and will show a twist prior to releasing the Kraken 
(spinny).

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 12:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

Take a look at the ATN web site for their "Tacker" and sock. There are videos 
of both in action. You may not choose to use either of them but you should at 
least be aware of these options. There are several companies that also make 
socks. An asymmetric is still a large sail and you have to get it down some 
how. The Tacker will give you better control over the tack of the sail than you 
would have with just a block tied to the anchor roller.

I use both, ATN Tacker and sock, and a symmetrical spinnaker that I fly as an 
asymmetric. The setup has a more restricted range of sailing angle to the wind, 
but it works quite well in most conditions where you would want such a sail 
while cruising. The main advantage of a true asymmetric over my setup is in 
sailing closer to the wind in light air.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

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Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot

[Knowles Rich]

Another compass note:  They are often mounted on bulkheads. When installing or 
troubleshooting have a good look on the back side of the mounting place for 
wires that can easily throw off the compass when energised by any device. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-28, at 17:02, Alan Bergen  wrote:

My fluxgate compass is mounted next to the port settee, close to the galley and 
near the boat's centerline.  If you have any iron/steel items near it, it will 
mess up your autopilot activity.  I also found that my vhf interferes with the 
autopilot.  Try turning off your VHF when troubleshooting it.

Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Joel Aronson]

ATN Makes a nice sock. You can save about the third if you Buy a sock from
North Sails Direct (not the local loft).

Joel Aronson


On Aug 28, 2013, at 4:10 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:

  Add another positive vote for the ATN sock.



I have used one on Calypso’s spinny for over 10 years.  We commonly double
hand with the spinny including dip pole gypes.  The ATN sock gives a safety
bail out for when the wind increases or something goes sideways (for
example I accidently release the sheet during a gybe).  Also, if sailing
shorthanded having the ATN sock allows for a quick douse in case of a MOB.



If ATN offers a carbon fiber “horse collar” it may be worth the cost to
avoid the heavy fiberglass.  The grey or different color stripe up the sock
indicates where the control lines are and will show a twist prior to
releasing the Kraken (spinny).



Martin

Calypso

1970 C&C 43

Seattle






*From:* CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
*On Behalf Of *Steve Thomas
*Sent:* Wednesday, August 28, 2013 12:12 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail



Take a look at the ATN web site for their "Tacker" and sock. There are
videos of both in action. You may not choose to use either of them but you
should at least be aware of these options. There are several companies
that also make socks. An asymmetric is still a large sail and you have to
get it down some how. The Tacker will give you better control over the tack
of the sail than you would have with just a block tied to the anchor
roller.



I use both, ATN Tacker and sock, and a symmetrical spinnaker that I fly as
an asymmetric. The setup has a more restricted range of sailing angle to
the wind, but it works quite well in most conditions where you would want
such a sail while cruising. The main advantage of a true asymmetric over my
setup is in sailing closer to the wind in light air.



Steve Thomas

C&C27 MKIII



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Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: Drained AGM battery

[Jake Brodersen]

David,

 

If the battery is taking this long to accept a charge, it is no longer
functioning correctly.  A battery at 11.3 volts is still dead and useless
for an boat purposes.  Accept the fact that it needs replacing and take it
back for a warranty claim.  There is something, perhaps a failed cell or
excessive resistance to keep the amps from flowing in.  You don't  want to
rely on that battery for anything.  

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 10:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

 

As usual, thank you all for your thoughts.  The battery is up to 11.3 volts
after 1.5 days on the smart charger.  I will definitely have it load tested
when it is done charging.  As to warranty replacement- the discharge was my
fault.  Would they still replace it under warranty under those
circumstances?  When I call Mid-state should I already have done the load
testing?  Do I need it at steady state on the recharge before I load test
it?  

 

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Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

[Curtis]

I tried again tonight. no go... Cant get it to align up without having to
apply 7 to 8 lbs of force to move the sifter. I may have to pay someone to
get this done? I don't know if the bracket can be put on backwards?I just
dont know


On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 10:50 AM, Marek Dziedzic wrote:

> **
> Apparently, alignment of the transmission cable (at the transmission end)
> is important. Edson installation manual says that it should not be flexed
> more than 10 degrees (up or down). This means that the cable should point
> about half way into the shift lever (when it is in its neutral position).
>
> Marek
>
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>


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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

[Curtis]

"This means that the cable should point about half way into the shift lever
(when it is in its neutral position)."

I don't know what you mean? Do you have a photo or describe this in a bit
more detail?  It is lose when disconnected and the shift lever changes gear
with little applied force? I'm sure its an adjustment but I have tried
almost everything short of cable replacement.



On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 9:20 PM, Curtis  wrote:

> I tried again tonight. no go... Cant get it to align up without having to
> apply 7 to 8 lbs of force to move the sifter. I may have to pay someone to
> get this done? I don't know if the bracket can be put on backwards?I just
> dont know
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 10:50 AM, Marek Dziedzic 
> wrote:
>
>> **
>> Apparently, alignment of the transmission cable (at the transmission end)
>> is important. Edson installation manual says that it should not be flexed
>> more than 10 degrees (up or down). This means that the cable should point
>> about half way into the shift lever (when it is in its neutral position).
>>
>> Marek
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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