Re: Stus-List Stereo constant 12V

[Bill Bina]

I have an external rocker switch that disconnects the cockpit speakers.

Bill Bina

On 5/8/2013 9:15 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:

Steve,
I wired it to the main panel on the input side of the main DC 
breaker.  It only is shut off when I turn the big ON/OFF switch 
(A/B/All for some folks.)   That seemed like a good compromise to me.  
Depending on how fancy your stereo is, it can be a PITA to go through 
the setup constantly.  For me, I use the fader to control volume in 
the main cabin vs. cockpit.  That's important.  A few times I have 
forgotten about that, and after doing something electrical have been 
inside rockin' out to music or watching a movie without realizing that 
my cockpit speakers are sharing my experience with anyone nearby.  
That's rude, and embarrassing. For that reason I deliberately change 
the default display color to 'red' so that if I see the default 'blue' 
color I know to check the setup.


Wal


you wrote:
How many of you keep the yellow (constant 12V) hooked up to the 
battery at

all times?






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Re: Stus-List WindowA Again

[John and Maryann Read]

We did it over 5 years ago with Sikaflex 295UV.  No issues no leaks

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 8:35 PM
To: Thomas Mikos; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List WindowA Again

 

I went with Dow 795 following Select Plastics recommendation. It's only been 
one year, but very happy with the results. 

--

Jonathan

Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On May 8, 2013, at 20:30, Thomas Mikos  wrote:

Just an inquiry to the group to determine if there is any new adhesives being 
used for window adherence for my CC33-2. I have reattached with Plexus or 
Methacrylate in the past and it appears that I am up for another try. Anything 
new or is it still plexus adhesives .

 

Thanks Tom 

Hammond Indiana

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Re: Stus-List Calypso's epic race - results

[Hoyt, Mike]

Martin 

Sport boats have presented that problem all over North America.  The
hjargon seems to be "Sport Boats" vs "Lead Mines".

The ideal solution is to race the sport boats in a separate class by
themselves esp in a distance race since they sail so much faster on some
angles than other - particularly reaching off the wind.  Unfortunately
this does not always work.

We have raced in a same class with a Viper 640 a few times.  It is very
odd to be in a class of 36 - 40 foot boats and have a dingy sailing in
your midst.  Often we tend to forget that he is in our class.

Mike
C&C 115 Koonalibra crew

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Martin DeYoung
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 7:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Calypso's epic race weekend

Tom,

At the risk of sharing too much below are the times out and back for R2S
Class 7 and the other C&C's in the race.  The combo of PHRF rating and
race times may give some indication of performance but remember that
there is great variation in current and conditions experienced by
different sized boats when racing in Admiralty Inlet.

One thing that stands out is the STYC put Melges 24s in the same class
as 24,000 lb. 43 year old racer/cruisers.  Difficult to rate such
diverse design and build types.

I did envy the J105's small headsails after 5+ hours of tacking a heavy
#1 in 10 to 20 TWS.  There was a time or two where we extended out into
adverse current as too much short tacking the shore was wearing out the
crew.

Race to the Straits, 2013, class 7 (double-handed, flying sails)
abridged results:

Bacon Syndicate
Melges 24 PHRF 99
Saturday - 5:38:12, Sunday - 3:05:41, Series - 8:43:53
1st in Class

12 Happy Thoughts
Melges 24 PHRF 99
5:47:37 - 3:14:14 - 9:01:51
2nd

Wildflower
J 35c PHRF 105
5:23:59 - 3:44:42 - 9:08:41
3rd

Last Tango
J/105 PHRF 93
5:35:13 - 3:38:43 - 9:13:56
4th

Lunch Box
Olson 30 PHRF 99
5:46:37 - 3:28:54 - 9:15:31
5th

Dulcinea
J105 PHRF 93
5:32:38 - 3:45:59 - 9:18:37
6th

Pegasus 
Soverel 33 PHRF 93
5:43:57 - 3:35:01 - 9:18:58
7th

Calypso
4850 PHRF 90
DeYoung/DeHaan
C&C 43
Saturday - 5:54:40, Sunday - 3:39:43, Series - 9:34:23
8th in class

Carmanah
10372 PHRF 93
John & Donna
C&C 43 Custom
Saturday - 5:45:02, Sunday - 3:54:48, Series - 9:39:50
9th in class

Cyrano
J105 PHRF 93
6:05:03 - 4:22:50 - 10:27:53
10th

Wholesome 30
Olson 30 PHRF 99
6:48:39 - 3:52:54 - 10:41:33
11th

Other C&C's that raced:

C&C 34, PHRF 150, single-handed, flying sails - Sat time: 5:56:18, Sun
time: 4:18:02
C&C 41, PHRF 90, double-handed, non-flying sails - Sat time: 6:20:07,
Sun time: 5:06:41
C&C 38L, PHRF 165, double-handed, non-flying sails - Sat time: 7:16:58,
Sun Time: 4:34:28
C&C 29 MK2, PHRF 231, double-handed, non-flying sails - Sat time:
6:49:48, Sun Time: 4:35:34
C&C 37/40 XL PHRF 81, double-handed, flying sails - Sat time: 6:00:37,
Sun time: 3:54:08

Course length each day +-30 miles

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom B
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 8:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Calypso's epic race weekend

Martin

Thanks so much for sharing.  Last weekend was truly amazing around here
with temps in the 80's and solid 15-20 Knt winds, I can see why you had
the best race ever!  What were your times out and back?

We got a little time put on Sunday and had a blast!

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
Alera, C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
> 
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 22:07:59 +
> From: Martin DeYoung 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Calypso's epic race weekend
> Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d7a2...@dmi3.dmi.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> http://www.pressure-drop.us/forums/content.php?3482-Epic-Shorthanded-R
> acing
> 
> The link goes to Pressure Drop's write up of last weekend's STYC Race
to the Straits.  In more than 10 years of racing Calypso including this
race 4 or 5 times in the past, last weekend's race rates as the best
ever.  One of the things that makes this event special is all boats are
single or double-handed.  Competitors give extra allowance on crossings
and mark rounding's in consideration of the extra time it may take to
maneuver.  Old school sportsmanship was in evidence both days.
> 
> The C&C connection is Calypso (43 hull #1) raced Carmanah (43 hull
#2).  Carmanah won the first day, Calypso the second and the series by a
few minutes.  Carmanah gets bonus points as they race as a "Jack & Jill"
team and gave nothing away in sail handling or boat speed.
> 
> After 43 years these old boats showed well upwind in 15 to 20 against
many of the light weight sporty boats that require weight on the rail.
We also did well against the other newer C&C's from the 80's and 90's
but a direct comparison is difficult as some classes were "no flying
sails" and some "flying sails" C&Cs used a cruising spinnaker.  Th

Stus-List Regarding Batteries

[Robert Abbott]

One club member has had his two lead acid wet cell batteries for 12 
years and another for 10 years.they both are launching again this 
year with the same, old batteries.  My GNB group 27's are now heading 
into their 6th year and I have abused them (let the electrolyte get low 
to expose the lead plates).  They still hold their charge under a load test.


My point is that if you don't need AGM's, a good quality lead acid 
battery has proven that it can last a long time if properly used.


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2013/05/09 1:38 AM, Jim Watts wrote:
If you're going to run aground so much, you might want to consider 
cheaper batteries and a set of training wheels. ; )



On 8 May 2013 19:10, Chuck S > wrote:


I would buy wet cell batteries if money was tight and I didn't
mind changing them every 2 to 4 years.
The reason to buy expensive AGMs?  No off gassing, no adding
water, supposed to work laying on their side or when submerged.
Ours are located under the aft berth, so I didn't want hydrogen
gasses building up there.
The batteries started the engine several times when we were heeled
over 45 degrees stranded on a sand bar, and we got off.  No acid
in the bilge.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

*From: *"Bob Moriarty" mailto:bobmo...@gmail.com>>
*To: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Sent: *Wednesday, May 8, 2013 8:20:06 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Regarding Batteries


I've formed the opinion (everyone has one), probably from this
list, that a good way to compare lead-acid batteries is by $/pound.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 11:50 AM, Bob Dryer mailto:bob07...@gmail.com>> wrote:

I suspect that all batteries with the same label and/or
warranty are not the same. Because of shipping costs, it is
likely that different brands come off the same assembly line
and are just branded differently. I also suspect that
warranties are mostly a marketing gimmick and have little to
do with battery longevity. The cost of honoring longer
warranties is just a selling expense,  not an indicator of
quality.
bob07052



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Re: Stus-List WindowA Again

[Thomas Mikos]

Thanks John & Maryann ,

Is the Sikaflex 295UV quick setting or did you have to build forms for an 
extended trying time? Will be trying to keep myself and crew try for the 
Chicago Mac race.

Tom Mikos 

Escape C&C 33-2
Hammond Indiana 




 From: John and Maryann Read 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 6:35 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List WindowA Again
 


We did it over 5 years ago with Sikaflex 295UV.  No issues no leaks
 
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
 
From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 8:35 PM
To: Thomas Mikos; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List WindowA Again
 
I went with Dow 795 following Select Plastics recommendation. It's only been 
one year, but very happy with the results. 
--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On May 8, 2013, at 20:30, Thomas Mikos  wrote:
Just an inquiry to the group to determine if there is any new adhesives being 
used for window adherence for my CC33-2. I have reattached with Plexus or 
Methacrylate in the past and it appears that I am up for another try. Anything 
new or is it still plexus adhesives .
> 
>Thanks Tom 
>Hammond Indiana
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Re: Stus-List Stereo constant 12V

[Stevan Plavsa]

heh

I have the opposite problem. After a hard reset my deck turns my cockpit
speakers OFF :)
But only when streaming bluetooth audio, which is all I really do. It's
like 5 layers into the menu and a PITA to set up each time.
15 amp fuse is what I have been reading people use on this wire, would that
be correct? I'll be hooking it up directly to the battery.
I can't recall now whether it's 14ga or 16ga wire.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 6:07 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:

> I have an external rocker switch that disconnects the cockpit speakers.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
> On 5/8/2013 9:15 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>> I wired it to the main panel on the input side of the main DC breaker.
>>  It only is shut off when I turn the big ON/OFF switch (A/B/All for some
>> folks.)   That seemed like a good compromise to me.  Depending on how fancy
>> your stereo is, it can be a PITA to go through the setup constantly.  For
>> me, I use the fader to control volume in the main cabin vs. cockpit.
>>  That's important.  A few times I have forgotten about that, and after
>> doing something electrical have been inside rockin' out to music or
>> watching a movie without realizing that my cockpit speakers are sharing my
>> experience with anyone nearby.  That's rude, and embarrassing. For that
>> reason I deliberately change the default display color to 'red' so that if
>> I see the default 'blue' color I know to check the setup.
>>
>> Wal
>>
>>
>> you wrote:
>>
>>> How many of you keep the yellow (constant 12V) hooked up to the battery
>>> at
>>> all times?
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> __**_
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>
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Re: Stus-List Stereo constant 12V

[Knowles Rich]

16 gauge will work fine and a 5-15 A fuse is just there for fire prevention, 
not to protect the equipment. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-09, at 10:16, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

heh

I have the opposite problem. After a hard reset my deck turns my cockpit 
speakers OFF :)
But only when streaming bluetooth audio, which is all I really do. It's like 5 
layers into the menu and a PITA to set up each time.
15 amp fuse is what I have been reading people use on this wire, would that be 
correct? I'll be hooking it up directly to the battery. 
I can't recall now whether it's 14ga or 16ga wire.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 6:07 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
> I have an external rocker switch that disconnects the cockpit speakers.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
> On 5/8/2013 9:15 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:
>> Steve,
>> I wired it to the main panel on the input side of the main DC breaker.  It 
>> only is shut off when I turn the big ON/OFF switch (A/B/All for some folks.) 
>>   That seemed like a good compromise to me.  Depending on how fancy your 
>> stereo is, it can be a PITA to go through the setup constantly.  For me, I 
>> use the fader to control volume in the main cabin vs. cockpit.  That's 
>> important.  A few times I have forgotten about that, and after doing 
>> something electrical have been inside rockin' out to music or watching a 
>> movie without realizing that my cockpit speakers are sharing my experience 
>> with anyone nearby.  That's rude, and embarrassing. For that reason I 
>> deliberately change the default display color to 'red' so that if I see the 
>> default 'blue' color I know to check the setup.
>> 
>> Wal
>> 
>> 
>> you wrote:
>>> How many of you keep the yellow (constant 12V) hooked up to the battery at
>>> all times?
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
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Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Hello Again, Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old 
wire/double braid halyards? If so, where did you have them done and would know 
about the splice? I'm going through this exercise for two reasons;  It seems 
like a really good idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves 
to accommodate a larger diameter line. I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and 
we're kicking around ideas of how to accomplish the end to end splice. 
DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA___
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Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

[Joel Aronson]

Danny,

Used VPC with the old sheaves.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:28 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:

> Hello Again,
>
> Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old wire/double
> braid halyards?
>
> If so, where did you have them done and would know about the splice?
>
> I'm going through this exercise for two reasons;  It seems like a really
> good idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves
> to accommodate a larger diameter line.
>
> I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of how to
> accomplish the end to end splice.
>
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

[Dennis C.]

I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason but I 
will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.

To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the sheave 
and sheave box.  Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the opening in 
the mast to accommodate a wider sheave box.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 8:28 AM
>Subject: Stus-List  Spectra/double braid halyards
> 
>
>
>Hello Again,
> 
>Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old wire/double 
>braid halyards?
> 
>If so, where did you have them done and would know about the splice?
> 
>I'm going through this exercise for two reasons;  It seems like a really good 
>idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves to accommodate a 
>larger diameter line.
> 
>I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of how to 
>accomplish the end to end splice.
> 
>Danny
>Lolita
>1973 Viking 33
>Westport Point, MA
>___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

[Joel Aronson]

L-36.com has instructions on how to do that sort of splice.


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:36 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason
> but I will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.
>
> To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the
> sheave and sheave box.  Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the
> opening in the mast to accommodate a wider sheave box.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>   --
>  *From:* "djhaug...@juno.com" 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2013 8:28 AM
> *Subject:* Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
>
> Hello Again,
>
> Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old wire/double
> braid halyards?
>
> If so, where did you have them done and would know about the splice?
>
> I'm going through this exercise for two reasons;  It seems like a really
> good idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves
> to accommodate a larger diameter line.
>
> I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of how to
> accomplish the end to end splice.
>
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Regarding Batteries

[Della Barba, Joe]

The reason I used gels and now AGMs is nothing to do with lasting a long time 
and everything to do with having acid in bilge during a hurricane :(
I could buy high quality wet cells like golf carts ($) or Rolls ($$) and 
get a long life out of them or just swap out cheap batteries every few years. 
In my former business I dealt with a large yacht that had 4 cracked 8Ds and 
acid everywhere besides for my own acid spill adventure. IMHO there is a 
significant safety advantage to AGM/Gel batteries. I also had a 24 volt 
airplane battery spit acid all over my face. My dog would be coming to work 
with me every day if I hadn't still had my sunglasses on.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Regarding Batteries

One club member has had his two lead acid wet cell batteries for 12 years and 
another for 10 years.they both are launching again this year with the same, 
old batteries.  My GNB group 27's are now heading into their 6th year and I 
have abused them (let the electrolyte get low to expose the lead plates).  They 
still hold their charge under a load test.

My point is that if you don't need AGM's, a good quality lead acid battery has 
proven that it can last a long time if properly used.

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2013/05/09 1:38 AM, Jim Watts wrote:
If you're going to run aground so much, you might want to consider cheaper 
batteries and a set of training wheels. ; )

On 8 May 2013 19:10, Chuck S 
mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>> wrote:
I would buy wet cell batteries if money was tight and I didn't mind changing 
them every 2 to 4 years.
The reason to buy expensive AGMs?  No off gassing, no adding water, supposed to 
work laying on their side or when submerged.
Ours are located under the aft berth, so I didn't want hydrogen gasses building 
up there.
The batteries started the engine several times when we were heeled over 45 
degrees stranded on a sand bar, and we got off.  No acid in the bilge.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

From: "Bob Moriarty" mailto:bobmo...@gmail.com>>
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, May 8, 2013 8:20:06 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Regarding Batteries

I've formed the opinion (everyone has one), probably from this list, that a 
good way to compare lead-acid batteries is by $/pound.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 11:50 AM, Bob Dryer 
mailto:bob07...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I suspect that all batteries with the same label and/or warranty are not the 
same. Because of shipping costs, it is likely that different brands come off 
the same assembly line and are just branded differently. I also suspect that 
warranties are mostly a marketing gimmick and have little to do with battery 
longevity. The cost of honoring longer warranties is just a selling expense,  
not an indicator of quality.
bob07052

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Re: Stus-List Stereo constant 12V

[Della Barba, Joe]

The thinnest marine wire would work fine as would a 3 amp fuse. There is almost 
no current on that wire.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stereo constant 12V

16 gauge will work fine and a 5-15 A fuse is just there for fire prevention, 
not to protect the equipment.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-09, at 10:16, Stevan Plavsa 
mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>> wrote:
heh

I have the opposite problem. After a hard reset my deck turns my cockpit 
speakers OFF :)
But only when streaming bluetooth audio, which is all I really do. It's like 5 
layers into the menu and a PITA to set up each time.
15 amp fuse is what I have been reading people use on this wire, would that be 
correct? I'll be hooking it up directly to the battery.
I can't recall now whether it's 14ga or 16ga wire.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 6:07 AM, Bill Bina 
mailto:billb...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
I have an external rocker switch that disconnects the cockpit speakers.

Bill Bina


On 5/8/2013 9:15 PM, Wally Bryant wrote:
Steve,
I wired it to the main panel on the input side of the main DC breaker.  It only 
is shut off when I turn the big ON/OFF switch (A/B/All for some folks.)   That 
seemed like a good compromise to me.  Depending on how fancy your stereo is, it 
can be a PITA to go through the setup constantly.  For me, I use the fader to 
control volume in the main cabin vs. cockpit.  That's important.  A few times I 
have forgotten about that, and after doing something electrical have been 
inside rockin' out to music or watching a movie without realizing that my 
cockpit speakers are sharing my experience with anyone nearby.  That's rude, 
and embarrassing. For that reason I deliberately change the default display 
color to 'red' so that if I see the default 'blue' color I know to check the 
setup.

Wal


you wrote:
How many of you keep the yellow (constant 12V) hooked up to the battery at
all times?


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Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Voila!!Nice Joel, Thanks!! I'm going to send this over to cajun. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "Dennis C." , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:40:33 -0400


L-36.com has instructions on how to do that sort of splice.

On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:36 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:
I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason but I 
will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.
 
To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the sheave 
and sheave box.� Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the 
opening in the mast to accommodate a wider sheave box.

Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
 
 From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 8:28 AM
 Subject: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
 
Hello Again,�Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace 
old wire/double braid halyards?�If so, where did you have them done and 
would know about the splice?�I'm 
going�through�this�exercise�for two reasons; 
�It seems like a really good idea for strength and I would not have to 
replace my sheeves to�accommodate�a larger diameter 
line.�I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of 
how to accomplish the end to end splice.�DannyLolita1973 Viking 
33Westport Point, MA___
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 -- 
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Stus-List WindowA Again

[Robert Abbott]

Tom:

I also used Sikaflex 295UV as the adhesive for my windows about 4 years 
ago.  Depending on the temperature and humidity, you should allow the 
Sika to cure for at least 24 hours.  I left mine for 48 hours.


To keep the windows in place during the curing, I placed pieces of 2" X 
4" jammed from the toerail onto the window.3 pieces of wood for each 
window and placed bricks and rocks on top of the 2' X 4" to ensure a 
tight seal.


No issues since.

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2013/05/09 10:05 AM, Thomas Mikos wrote:

Thanks John & Maryann ,

Is the Sikaflex 295UV quick setting or did you have to build forms for 
an extended trying time? Will be trying to keep myself and crew try 
for the Chicago Mac race.


Tom Mikos
Escape C&C 33-2
Hammond Indiana


*From:* John and Maryann Read 
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2013 6:35 AM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List WindowA Again

We did it over 5 years ago with Sikaflex 295UV.  No issues no leaks
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Indigo

*Sent:* Wednesday, May 08, 2013 8:35 PM
*To:* Thomas Mikos; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List WindowA Again
I went with Dow 795 following Select Plastics recommendation. It's 
only been one year, but very happy with the results.

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On May 8, 2013, at 20:30, Thomas Mikos > wrote:


Just an inquiry to the group to determine if there is any new
adhesives being used for window adherence for my CC33-2. I have
reattached with Plexus or Methacrylate in the past and it appears
that I am up for another try. Anything new or is it still plexus
adhesives .
Thanks Tom
Hammond Indiana

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Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

[Alan Bergen]

Danny: 

If you still have your original sheaves, you might want to replace them anyway. 
I had my mast down in March, and when inspecting the sheaves, I found them to 
be well past the time when they should have been replaced. I replaced the jib 
and main halyard sheaves with delrin sheaves from Zephyrwerks 
(www.zephyrwerks.com). 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

This is done very often in the racing world for weight reduction.

Basically, you strip the cover off of a high-tech line like EnduraBraid
or Warpspeed or your favorite Vectran cored line.

I did it myself for all my halyards, but I'm funny like that.

For one of my halyards, its Endurabraid with the cover stripped off the
"end".

For another of my halyards, it's an Amsteel "end" spliced to a standard
polyester double braid so that I didn't have to pay for the expensive
stuff to lay in my cockpit when the sail was up.

Regardless, most shops can do this easily. For Example: APSLTD.com is
excellent and I've used their services in the past. LAYLINE.com was
excellent in the past, but I haven't had the opportunity to use them
since they changed management a few years ago. 

-Keith


-Original Message-
From: djhaug...@juno.com [mailto:djhaug...@juno.com] 
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:28
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

Hello Again,
 
Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old
wire/double braid halyards?
 
If so, where did you have them done and would know about the splice?
 
I'm going through this exercise for two reasons;  It seems like a really
good idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves to
accommodate a larger diameter line.
 
I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of how
to accomplish the end to end splice.
 
Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

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Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Stevan Plavsa]

I installed an ST40 thru-hull in my bow where the old knot-meter thru-hull
used to be. Same size hole and all. Backing block was completely dry and
rot free so I left it alone and didn't replace it. I used 4200 to seal the
thing in there. Now, the hole is located at the 'vee' of the hull and the
instructions say "hand tighten only". Well, I hand tightened alright, but
like .. hand TIGHTENED. Apparently I'm a lot stronger than whoever wrote
the instructions ... I'll get to that later.

As soon as the boat was floating I went in and had a look at all of the
thru-hulls .. all but one, of course, the new knot meter! I had also
replaced a thru-hull for the galley drain located just behind the
companionway steps this winter and last year I replaced three others. No
problems with any of those.

I'm blaming a stressful launch for my failure to check on that thru-hull.
Anyway, it was leaking. We only discovered while underway half way back to
the club. I didn't want to go back because I swore I'de never go back there
after my experience with haul-out and launch this year, it's a terrible
place. I figured if I have to haul the boat I'll do it somewhere else and
there are other places. The leak wasn't sinking the boat or anything but I
noticed something odd .. a previous owner had glassed over the limber hole
from the bow section to the bilge. So, the bilge pump wasn't going and the
bilge water wasn't rising so that's another reason I didn't notice. I'm on
a mooring so I took the boat to the shared dock to survey the situation.
The leak was pretty bad. The bow had about a foot of water in it after 45
minutes in the water, not good.

I bailed all the water out to observe the leak and it was surely coming
from the housing, NOT from between the hull and thru-hull fitting ..
rather, from between the thru-hull fitting (housing) and transducer. Ok I
thought, it's either the housing or the ducer .. I put in the blank, same
leak. Ok, so it's the housing, WTF.

I messed with it until I got the leak slowed down to a trickle and left it
alone. Yes both o-rings were present on both the transducer and blank plug,
I had also lubed them with the provided silicon lubricant. This housing
keep in mind, is the newer design with the flapper valve, whole thing is
plastic. I drove back to check on it again later that evening and the water
ingress wasn't too bad. I bailed the half bucket of water out and called it
a night.

The next morning I took the day off work and started making calls to local
marinas pricing out a haul out and calling the chandleries to find a
replacement thru-hull. No one had what I needed in stock and everyone was
busy with launch, they could make time for me, but it was going to be
expensive! I weighed my options and decided to try the cheapest, lowest
risk option first .. bigger o-rings. This was recommended to me by an
employee at one of the chandleries and he pretty much saved the day. I
happened to have the EXACT o-ring on board! One of them anyway, the larger
upper one .. I had purchased a pack of replacement o-rings for the fuel
fill, there were three o-rings in the package so I had two left, just
enough for both the plug and ducer!

This slowed the ingress down to a trickle, barely noticable. After 45
minutes there was maybe two tablespoons of water in the bow. Ok, now we're
making progress. I went to home depot and bought a pack of assorted o-rings
but none of them were the right diameter or thickness ... I also purchased
yellow plumbers tape. I put a few wraps around the ducer UNDER where the
lower o-ring is located and slipped the o-ring over the layers of plumbers
tape. LEAK STOPPED. Just about anyway, if I 'jiggle' the transducer I can
get it to leak but if i leave it alone the area remains dry.

My theory is that I overtightened the thru-hull fitting causing it to
deform due to it's location on the curved part of the hull. The hole is
flat mind you and the flange fits in just fine but I don't know .. that's
my theory. I know that these plastic thru-hulls are prone to cracking when
over-tightened... I don't think mine is cracked because the larger o-rings
have stopped the leak.

So finally my questions:

1. is my thinking ok? Is it possible that the housing IS in fact cracked? I
can't see any cracks.
2. how critical is a boat haul? If the housing isn't cracked what are the
chances that it COULD crack while in some chop or something? I imagine the
hull is pretty rigid up there at the vee of the bow, it's thick and not a
large unsupported area.

My gut tells me to haul the boat and replace the thru-hull with raymarine's
bronze version but thats' going to be a very expensive exercise. The
original knot meter fitting was plastic as well and that lasted 32 years.

Thanks all.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[Lee Youngblood]

Hi Alan,

I appreciate the heads-up and will cheer for Frank.  I fondly 
remember out trip together.


Thanks, Lee



Tomorrow, May 9, 2013, is the start of the Oregon Offshore 
International Yacht Race.  The race starts at the mouth of the 
Columbia River at Astoria, Oregon, and finishes inside the harbor at 
Victoria, BC.  Two C&C's are entered:  Cool Change, a C&C Landfall 
38, hull number 1, skippered by Frank Noragon, and Katzenjammer, C&C 
34, skippered by Jim Calnon.  You can watch their progress by going 
to Oregonoffshore.org, and clicking on Race Tracker.


Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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--
Lee Youngblood  (425) 444-9109

Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Joel Aronson]

Steve,

Try Blue Heron Marine for the housing.  It is an Airmar transducer with a
Ray label.
I'd go with your gut.  If I remember correctly, you are on a mooring
without a charger.  If the leak gets worse, you are literally sunk!

Sorry!
Joel
35/3
Annapolis


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:09 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:

> I installed an ST40 thru-hull in my bow where the old knot-meter thru-hull
> used to be. Same size hole and all. Backing block was completely dry and
> rot free so I left it alone and didn't replace it. I used 4200 to seal the
> thing in there. Now, the hole is located at the 'vee' of the hull and the
> instructions say "hand tighten only". Well, I hand tightened alright, but
> like .. hand TIGHTENED. Apparently I'm a lot stronger than whoever wrote
> the instructions ... I'll get to that later.
>
> As soon as the boat was floating I went in and had a look at all of the
> thru-hulls .. all but one, of course, the new knot meter! I had also
> replaced a thru-hull for the galley drain located just behind the
> companionway steps this winter and last year I replaced three others. No
> problems with any of those.
>
> I'm blaming a stressful launch for my failure to check on that thru-hull.
> Anyway, it was leaking. We only discovered while underway half way back to
> the club. I didn't want to go back because I swore I'de never go back there
> after my experience with haul-out and launch this year, it's a terrible
> place. I figured if I have to haul the boat I'll do it somewhere else and
> there are other places. The leak wasn't sinking the boat or anything but I
> noticed something odd .. a previous owner had glassed over the limber hole
> from the bow section to the bilge. So, the bilge pump wasn't going and the
> bilge water wasn't rising so that's another reason I didn't notice. I'm on
> a mooring so I took the boat to the shared dock to survey the situation.
> The leak was pretty bad. The bow had about a foot of water in it after 45
> minutes in the water, not good.
>
> I bailed all the water out to observe the leak and it was surely coming
> from the housing, NOT from between the hull and thru-hull fitting ..
> rather, from between the thru-hull fitting (housing) and transducer. Ok I
> thought, it's either the housing or the ducer .. I put in the blank, same
> leak. Ok, so it's the housing, WTF.
>
> I messed with it until I got the leak slowed down to a trickle and left it
> alone. Yes both o-rings were present on both the transducer and blank plug,
> I had also lubed them with the provided silicon lubricant. This housing
> keep in mind, is the newer design with the flapper valve, whole thing is
> plastic. I drove back to check on it again later that evening and the water
> ingress wasn't too bad. I bailed the half bucket of water out and called it
> a night.
>
> The next morning I took the day off work and started making calls to local
> marinas pricing out a haul out and calling the chandleries to find a
> replacement thru-hull. No one had what I needed in stock and everyone was
> busy with launch, they could make time for me, but it was going to be
> expensive! I weighed my options and decided to try the cheapest, lowest
> risk option first .. bigger o-rings. This was recommended to me by an
> employee at one of the chandleries and he pretty much saved the day. I
> happened to have the EXACT o-ring on board! One of them anyway, the larger
> upper one .. I had purchased a pack of replacement o-rings for the fuel
> fill, there were three o-rings in the package so I had two left, just
> enough for both the plug and ducer!
>
> This slowed the ingress down to a trickle, barely noticable. After 45
> minutes there was maybe two tablespoons of water in the bow. Ok, now we're
> making progress. I went to home depot and bought a pack of assorted o-rings
> but none of them were the right diameter or thickness ... I also purchased
> yellow plumbers tape. I put a few wraps around the ducer UNDER where the
> lower o-ring is located and slipped the o-ring over the layers of plumbers
> tape. LEAK STOPPED. Just about anyway, if I 'jiggle' the transducer I can
> get it to leak but if i leave it alone the area remains dry.
>
> My theory is that I overtightened the thru-hull fitting causing it to
> deform due to it's location on the curved part of the hull. The hole is
> flat mind you and the flange fits in just fine but I don't know .. that's
> my theory. I know that these plastic thru-hulls are prone to cracking when
> over-tightened... I don't think mine is cracked because the larger o-rings
> have stopped the leak.
>
> So finally my questions:
>
> 1. is my thinking ok? Is it possible that the housing IS in fact cracked?
> I can't see any cracks.
> 2. how critical is a boat haul? If the housing isn't cracked what are the
> chances that it COULD crack while in some chop or something? I imagine the
> hull is pretty rigid up there at the vee of the bow, it's thick and not a
> large unsupported area.
>
> My gu

Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[Bill Coleman]

Better start cheering then, he's almost bringing up the rear!

And this little excerpt from the Electric Fever Poem,

<< I must go down to the sea again, and not leave friends behind
And so they never get seasick we'll use the web online
And all I ask is an Internet with satellites over me
And beaming all the data up, my friends sail virtually.>>

Go Frank!

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee
Youngblood
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 2:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

Hi Alan,

I appreciate the heads-up and will cheer for Frank.  I fondly 
remember out trip together.

Thanks, Lee



>Tomorrow, May 9, 2013, is the start of the Oregon Offshore 
>International Yacht Race.  The race starts at the mouth of the 
>Columbia River at Astoria, Oregon, and finishes inside the harbor at 
>Victoria, BC.  Two C&C's are entered:  Cool Change, a C&C Landfall 
>38, hull number 1, skippered by Frank Noragon, and Katzenjammer, C&C 
>34, skippered by Jim Calnon.  You can watch their progress by going 
>to Oregonoffshore.org, and clicking on Race Tracker.
>
>Alan Bergen
>C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
>Rose City YC
>Portland, OR
>
>
>
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>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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-- 
Lee Youngblood  (425) 444-9109

Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Alan Bergen]

Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place. 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Stevan Plavsa]

I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the
threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much
force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the
thru-hull now I'm in trouble.

Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*

I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing this
... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system.
Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they weren't
kidding!
It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I
also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C
related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in
the winter and spring :D

I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably what's
going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus shipping
etc.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen wrote:

> Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place.
>
> Alan Bergen
> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Rick Taillieu]

Steve,

 

You could try backing off the housing nut a very small amount to get rid of
any slight deformation and see if the leak stops.

A silly question but you said that you said that you could "jiggle" the
transducer and make it leak.

I don't think the transducer should be able to wiggle in the housing, are
you tightening the "cap nut" to lock the transducer into the housing?

You mention tightening the nut for the housing but not the transducer cap
nut.

I sent the ST-40 Instrument Service manual to you direct, have a look at the
cutaway for a better indication of how it seals.

 

Cheers

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: May-09-13 12:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

 

I installed an ST40 thru-hull in my bow where the old knot-meter thru-hull
used to be. Same size hole and all. Backing block was completely dry and rot
free so I left it alone and didn't replace it. I used 4200 to seal the thing
in there. Now, the hole is located at the 'vee' of the hull and the
instructions say "hand tighten only". Well, I hand tightened alright, but
like .. hand TIGHTENED. Apparently I'm a lot stronger than whoever wrote the
instructions ... I'll get to that later.

 

As soon as the boat was floating I went in and had a look at all of the
thru-hulls .. all but one, of course, the new knot meter! I had also
replaced a thru-hull for the galley drain located just behind the
companionway steps this winter and last year I replaced three others. No
problems with any of those. 

 

I'm blaming a stressful launch for my failure to check on that thru-hull.
Anyway, it was leaking. We only discovered while underway half way back to
the club. I didn't want to go back because I swore I'de never go back there
after my experience with haul-out and launch this year, it's a terrible
place. I figured if I have to haul the boat I'll do it somewhere else and
there are other places. The leak wasn't sinking the boat or anything but I
noticed something odd .. a previous owner had glassed over the limber hole
from the bow section to the bilge. So, the bilge pump wasn't going and the
bilge water wasn't rising so that's another reason I didn't notice. I'm on a
mooring so I took the boat to the shared dock to survey the situation. The
leak was pretty bad. The bow had about a foot of water in it after 45
minutes in the water, not good. 

 

I bailed all the water out to observe the leak and it was surely coming from
the housing, NOT from between the hull and thru-hull fitting .. rather, from
between the thru-hull fitting (housing) and transducer. Ok I thought, it's
either the housing or the ducer .. I put in the blank, same leak. Ok, so
it's the housing, WTF. 

 

I messed with it until I got the leak slowed down to a trickle and left it
alone. Yes both o-rings were present on both the transducer and blank plug,
I had also lubed them with the provided silicon lubricant. This housing keep
in mind, is the newer design with the flapper valve, whole thing is plastic.
I drove back to check on it again later that evening and the water ingress
wasn't too bad. I bailed the half bucket of water out and called it a night.

 

The next morning I took the day off work and started making calls to local
marinas pricing out a haul out and calling the chandleries to find a
replacement thru-hull. No one had what I needed in stock and everyone was
busy with launch, they could make time for me, but it was going to be
expensive! I weighed my options and decided to try the cheapest, lowest risk
option first .. bigger o-rings. This was recommended to me by an employee at
one of the chandleries and he pretty much saved the day. I happened to have
the EXACT o-ring on board! One of them anyway, the larger upper one .. I had
purchased a pack of replacement o-rings for the fuel fill, there were three
o-rings in the package so I had two left, just enough for both the plug and
ducer!

 

This slowed the ingress down to a trickle, barely noticable. After 45
minutes there was maybe two tablespoons of water in the bow. Ok, now we're
making progress. I went to home depot and bought a pack of assorted o-rings
but none of them were the right diameter or thickness ... I also purchased
yellow plumbers tape. I put a few wraps around the ducer UNDER where the
lower o-ring is located and slipped the o-ring over the layers of plumbers
tape. LEAK STOPPED. Just about anyway, if I 'jiggle' the transducer I can
get it to leak but if i leave it alone the area remains dry.

 

My theory is that I overtightened the thru-hull fitting causing it to deform
due to it's location on the curved part of the hull. The hole is flat mind
you and the flange fits in just fine but I don't know .. that's my theory. I
know that these plastic thru-hulls are prone to cracking when
over-tightened... I don'

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Steve Thomas]

Your distortion theory gets my vote, unless there was a manufacturing defect 
and the transducer somehow doesn't fit the housing. I
would not rule out the possibility of a manufacturing defect, especially since 
your cost of just trying another one would be
pretty high. Sometimes things get assembled with the wrong parts, and sometimes 
parts are out of spec or just barely within. It
might be worth trying to get a hold of someone at Airmar. My experience with 
engineers is that they are more that willing to help
with technical issues, but establishing contact is not always possible.

If the leak was due to a crack, I don't see how a larger O ring would fix it.

One thing you could do before going to further big expense is obtain a dial 
caliper, like a machinist would use, and check the
hole as best you can for distortion. If the inside diameter (and outside 
diameter for that matter) does not measure the same all
the way around then that would be an indication that distortion may be the 
problem.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 11:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak


I installed an ST40 thru-hull in my bow where the old knot-meter thru-hull used 
to be. Same size hole and all. Backing block was
completely dry and rot free so I left it alone and didn't replace it. I used 
4200 to seal the thing in there. Now, the hole is
located at the 'vee' of the hull and the instructions say "hand tighten only". 
Well, I hand tightened alright, but like .. hand
TIGHTENED. Apparently I'm a lot stronger than whoever wrote the instructions 
... I'll get to that later.


As soon as the boat was floating I went in and had a look at all of the 
thru-hulls .. all but one, of course, the new knot meter!
I had also replaced a thru-hull for the galley drain located just behind the 
companionway steps this winter and last year I
replaced three others. No problems with any of those.


I'm blaming a stressful launch for my failure to check on that thru-hull. 
Anyway, it was leaking. We only discovered while
underway half way back to the club. I didn't want to go back because I swore 
I'de never go back there after my experience with
haul-out and launch this year, it's a terrible place. I figured if I have to 
haul the boat I'll do it somewhere else and there are
other places. The leak wasn't sinking the boat or anything but I noticed 
something odd .. a previous owner had glassed over the
limber hole from the bow section to the bilge. So, the bilge pump wasn't going 
and the bilge water wasn't rising so that's another
reason I didn't notice. I'm on a mooring so I took the boat to the shared dock 
to survey the situation. The leak was pretty bad.
The bow had about a foot of water in it after 45 minutes in the water, not good.


I bailed all the water out to observe the leak and it was surely coming from 
the housing, NOT from between the hull and thru-hull
fitting .. rather, from between the thru-hull fitting (housing) and transducer. 
Ok I thought, it's either the housing or the ducer
.. I put in the blank, same leak. Ok, so it's the housing, WTF.


I messed with it until I got the leak slowed down to a trickle and left it 
alone. Yes both o-rings were present on both the
transducer and blank plug, I had also lubed them with the provided silicon 
lubricant. This housing keep in mind, is the newer
design with the flapper valve, whole thing is plastic. I drove back to check on 
it again later that evening and the water ingress
wasn't too bad. I bailed the half bucket of water out and called it a night.


The next morning I took the day off work and started making calls to local 
marinas pricing out a haul out and calling the
chandleries to find a replacement thru-hull. No one had what I needed in stock 
and everyone was busy with launch, they could make
time for me, but it was going to be expensive! I weighed my options and decided 
to try the cheapest, lowest risk option first ..
bigger o-rings. This was recommended to me by an employee at one of the 
chandleries and he pretty much saved the day. I happened
to have the EXACT o-ring on board! One of them anyway, the larger upper one .. 
I had purchased a pack of replacement o-rings for
the fuel fill, there were three o-rings in the package so I had two left, just 
enough for both the plug and ducer!


This slowed the ingress down to a trickle, barely noticable. After 45 minutes 
there was maybe two tablespoons of water in the bow.
Ok, now we're making progress. I went to home depot and bought a pack of 
assorted o-rings but none of them were the right diameter
or thickness ... I also purchased yellow plumbers tape. I put a few wraps 
around the ducer UNDER where the lower o-ring is located
and slipped the o-ring over the layers of plumbers tape. LEAK STOPPED. Just 
about anyway, if 

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Chris Price]

Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and, if 
necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done. 

Chris Price 
Pradel 
35 Mk I 

- Original Message -
From: "Stevan Plavsa"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak 


I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the 
threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much force to 
that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the thru-hull now I'm in 
trouble. 


Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll* 


I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing this ... 
it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system. 
Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they weren't 
kidding! 
It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I also 
bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C related 
because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in the winter 
and spring :D 


I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably what's 
going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus shipping etc. 


Steve 
Suhana, C&C 32 
Toronto 





On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen < alan-at-h...@comcast.net > 
wrote: 




Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place. 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 


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Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[Alan Bergen]

Race starting time is 10:00 am Pacific Time. 


Alan Bergen 
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Stevan Plavsa]

Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the
transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will
vary the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle"
but I can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves
a millimetre or two when pushed down. Not really anymore now that the
larger o-ring and plumbers tape is in there. Again, the cap nut is locked
down. I didn't look at the attachment because I had the instructions in
front of me the whole time I installed the thing .. I can see the cutaway
drawing in my head I looked at it so much  :)

Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take tools
to do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much torque to the
thing it being in this compromised state already. If it cracks I'm in big
trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they can't
let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but then I'm
paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one place... "or
more depending on time".
I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the
sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at
worst .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks
again for some reason when it goes back in.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price  wrote:

> Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and, if
> necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
>
> Chris Price
> Pradel
> 35 Mk I
>
> --
> *From: *"Stevan Plavsa" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>
>
> I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the
> threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much
> force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the
> thru-hull now I'm in trouble.
>
> Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
>
> I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing
> this ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system.
> Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they
> weren't kidding!
> It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I
> also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C
> related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in
> the winter and spring :D
>
> I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably what's
> going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus shipping
> etc.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen wrote:
>
>> Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Stus-List Cajun Spectra core line

[MICHAEL CULLEN]

I had Cajun make me up a couple of 7/16 spectra core halyards with an eye 
splice on each of them; one for the genoa halyard and one for the main halyard. 
 I went with 7/16 only for the sake of the original Easylock rope clutches, not 
because that size was needed for the loads.  I have an '86 33-2 with the 
"standard rig" and this stainless wire fitting at the masthead with two small 
"gates" for the two wing halyards and one really small gate for the centre 
forward halyard.  I ended up sending both halyards back to Cajun to have them 
strip the cover off 1/2 the length, to get the diameter down to what would pass 
through the gates and even at that, I ultimately had to buy a wire/rope 
prespliced halyard from West Marine for the centre genoa halyard. So now I have 
a spare spectra core halyarrd for the main.  They said that the urethane 
coating on the spectra core would by ok for UV.  I don't know what fitting is 
at your masthead but if you are replacing wire, you might want to check the 
available space up there.  Gary at Cajun told me that the mast head sheave for 
wire would probably be alright, but the main halyard I replaced was some kind 
of double braid in any event and didn't show any indications of an issue in 
that regard.  I believe the OE main halyard would have been wire/rope as well.  
One of the guys at the club with a 33-2 and the old rope clutches went to 
warpspeed in a smaller size and then ended up putting a larger cover on the 
portion of the halyard that is engaged by the rope clutch. 

- Original Message -
From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 8:27:02 AM
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 88, Issue 22

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Spectra/double braid halyards (Dennis C.)
   2. Re:  Spectra/double braid halyards (Joel Aronson)
   3. Re:  Regarding Batteries (Della Barba, Joe)
   4. Re:  Stereo constant 12V (Della Barba, Joe)
   5. Re:  Spectra/double braid halyards (djhaug...@juno.com)
   6.  WindowA Again (Robert Abbott)
   7. Re:  Spectra/double braid halyards (Alan Bergen)
   8. Re:  Spectra/double braid halyards
  (Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR)
   9.  Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak (Stevan Plavsa)
  10. Re:  Oregon Offshore Race (Lee Youngblood)
  11. Re:  Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak (Joel Aronson)


--

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 06:36:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Dennis C." 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Message-ID:
<1368106597.25789.yahoomail...@web121902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason but I 
will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.

To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the sheave 
and sheave box.? Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the opening in 
the mast to accommodate a wider sheave box.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 8:28 AM
>Subject: Stus-List  Spectra/double braid halyards
> 
>
>
>Hello Again,
>?
>Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old wire/double 
>braid halyards?
>?
>If so, where did you have them done and would know about the splice?
>?
>I'm going?through?this?exercise?for two reasons; ?It seems like a really good 
>idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves to?accommodate?a 
>larger diameter line.
>?
>I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of how to 
>accomplish the end to end splice.
>?
>Danny
>Lolita
>1973 Viking 33
>Westport Point, MA
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>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:40:33 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: &q

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Stevan Plavsa]

Rick, thanks for the separate email with the attachment, that is one
thorough manual! The one I got wasn't that thorough. But the instructions
are the same in any case I'm just impressed that the one you sent had PCB
schematics!
Anyway .. my transducer looks different, so does the plug. The lower o-ring
is further down than the one shown in the drawing.

I purchased both the ST40 speed and the ST40 depth at the boat show .. I'm
being reminded now of another conversation had on this list about open box
raymarine products ... the boxes had clearly been opened, they were old
stock and I got them both for $300. $150 per instrument is pretty good.
But now I guess there's a chance that maybe parts got mixed up? I don't
know, I actually doubt that, I'm pretty sure the drawing in my manual shows
the transducer that I have, I would have noticed the difference right away
like I did with the manuals I was just sent.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:

> Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the
> transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will
> vary the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle"
> but I can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves
> a millimetre or two when pushed down. Not really anymore now that the
> larger o-ring and plumbers tape is in there. Again, the cap nut is locked
> down. I didn't look at the attachment because I had the instructions in
> front of me the whole time I installed the thing .. I can see the cutaway
> drawing in my head I looked at it so much  :)
>
> Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take tools
> to do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much torque to the
> thing it being in this compromised state already. If it cracks I'm in big
> trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
>  RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they
> can't let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but
> then I'm paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one
> place... "or more depending on time".
> I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the
> sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at
> worst .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks
> again for some reason when it goes back in.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price wrote:
>
>> Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and, if
>> necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
>>
>> Chris Price
>> Pradel
>> 35 Mk I
>>
>> --
>> *From: *"Stevan Plavsa" 
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Sent: *Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>>
>>
>> I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the
>> threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much
>> force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the
>> thru-hull now I'm in trouble.
>>
>> Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
>>
>> I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing
>> this ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system.
>> Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they
>> weren't kidding!
>> It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I
>> also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C
>> related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in
>> the winter and spring :D
>>
>> I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably
>> what's going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus
>> shipping etc.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen wrote:
>>
>>> Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place.
>>>
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Frederick G Street]

Steve -- I'm pretty sure I have one of the bronze retractable speed/temp 
transducers at home, still new in the box.  If so, I could ship it to you; that 
might help you get it quicker.  Just replace it when you've got another one in, 
or send me the $$$ and I can replace it.  I hope this helps. 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 9, 2013, at 10:09 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> I installed an ST40 thru-hull in my bow where the old knot-meter thru-hull 
> used to be. Same size hole and all. Backing block was completely dry and rot 
> free so I left it alone and didn't replace it. I used 4200 to seal the thing 
> in there. Now, the hole is located at the 'vee' of the hull and the 
> instructions say "hand tighten only". Well, I hand tightened alright, but 
> like .. hand TIGHTENED. Apparently I'm a lot stronger than whoever wrote the 
> instructions ... I'll get to that later.
> 
> As soon as the boat was floating I went in and had a look at all of the 
> thru-hulls .. all but one, of course, the new knot meter! I had also replaced 
> a thru-hull for the galley drain located just behind the companionway steps 
> this winter and last year I replaced three others. No problems with any of 
> those. 
> 
> I'm blaming a stressful launch for my failure to check on that thru-hull. 
> Anyway, it was leaking. We only discovered while underway half way back to 
> the club. I didn't want to go back because I swore I'de never go back there 
> after my experience with haul-out and launch this year, it's a terrible 
> place. I figured if I have to haul the boat I'll do it somewhere else and 
> there are other places. The leak wasn't sinking the boat or anything but I 
> noticed something odd .. a previous owner had glassed over the limber hole 
> from the bow section to the bilge. So, the bilge pump wasn't going and the 
> bilge water wasn't rising so that's another reason I didn't notice. I'm on a 
> mooring so I took the boat to the shared dock to survey the situation. The 
> leak was pretty bad. The bow had about a foot of water in it after 45 minutes 
> in the water, not good. 
> 
> I bailed all the water out to observe the leak and it was surely coming from 
> the housing, NOT from between the hull and thru-hull fitting .. rather, from 
> between the thru-hull fitting (housing) and transducer. Ok I thought, it's 
> either the housing or the ducer .. I put in the blank, same leak. Ok, so it's 
> the housing, WTF. 
> 
> I messed with it until I got the leak slowed down to a trickle and left it 
> alone. Yes both o-rings were present on both the transducer and blank plug, I 
> had also lubed them with the provided silicon lubricant. This housing keep in 
> mind, is the newer design with the flapper valve, whole thing is plastic. I 
> drove back to check on it again later that evening and the water ingress 
> wasn't too bad. I bailed the half bucket of water out and called it a night.
> 
> The next morning I took the day off work and started making calls to local 
> marinas pricing out a haul out and calling the chandleries to find a 
> replacement thru-hull. No one had what I needed in stock and everyone was 
> busy with launch, they could make time for me, but it was going to be 
> expensive! I weighed my options and decided to try the cheapest, lowest risk 
> option first .. bigger o-rings. This was recommended to me by an employee at 
> one of the chandleries and he pretty much saved the day. I happened to have 
> the EXACT o-ring on board! One of them anyway, the larger upper one .. I had 
> purchased a pack of replacement o-rings for the fuel fill, there were three 
> o-rings in the package so I had two left, just enough for both the plug and 
> ducer!
> 
> This slowed the ingress down to a trickle, barely noticable. After 45 minutes 
> there was maybe two tablespoons of water in the bow. Ok, now we're making 
> progress. I went to home depot and bought a pack of assorted o-rings but none 
> of them were the right diameter or thickness ... I also purchased yellow 
> plumbers tape. I put a few wraps around the ducer UNDER where the lower 
> o-ring is located and slipped the o-ring over the layers of plumbers tape. 
> LEAK STOPPED. Just about anyway, if I 'jiggle' the transducer I can get it to 
> leak but if i leave it alone the area remains dry.
> 
> My theory is that I overtightened the thru-hull fitting causing it to deform 
> due to it's location on the curved part of the hull. The hole is flat mind 
> you and the flange fits in just fine but I don't know .. that's my theory. I 
> know that these plastic thru-hulls are prone to cracking when 
> over-tightened... I don't think mine is cracked because the larger o-rings 
> have stopped the leak.
> 
> So finally my questions:
> 
> 1. is my thinking ok? Is it possible that the housing IS in fact cracked? I 
> can't see any cracks.
> 2. how critical is a boat haul? If the housing isn't cracked w

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Hoyt, Mike]

is it cross threaded?



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 1:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak


Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the
transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will
vary the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly
"jiggle" but I can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves a
millimetre or two when pushed down. Not really anymore now that the
larger o-ring and plumbers tape is in there. Again, the cap nut is
locked down. I didn't look at the attachment because I had the
instructions in front of me the whole time I installed the thing .. I
can see the cutaway drawing in my head I looked at it so much  :) 

Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take
tools to do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much
torque to the thing it being in this compromised state already. If it
cracks I'm in big trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
  
RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they
can't let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but
then I'm paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one
place... "or more depending on time". 
I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the
sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at
worst .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks
again for some reason when it goes back in. 

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price 
wrote:


Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it
out, and, if necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.

Chris Price
Pradel
35 Mk I




From: "Stevan Plavsa" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak



I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got
into the threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about
applying much force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I
crack the thru-hull now I'm in trouble. 

Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*

I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm
weighing this ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar
charging system. 
Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission
they weren't kidding!
It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and
everything else. I also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some
$love$. It's C&C related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to
and from my boat in the winter and spring :D

I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's
probably what's going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is
155 plus shipping etc.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen
 wrote:


Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place.



Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Stevan Plavsa]

Thanks Fred, that's very helpful but if I go ahead I'll simply order it
from defender or binnacle. At this point it's not leaking anymore so it's
not a panic situation anymore.

The lock nut is not cross threaded, neither the cap nut.

One thing that sucks about this is that we renamed the boat. My girlfriend
is now anxious that the boat has a curse on it. We did the proper de-naming
ceremony on the hard. We were going to do the naming ceremony as soon as
the boat splashed down but we both agreed that the place we were in had
terrible karma and that we were better off doing the naming at our own
mooring. We did the ceremony right before bringing the boat to the dock.
Smashing a champagne bottle is very satisfying.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:09 PM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

> **
> is it cross threaded?
>
>  --
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
> Plavsa
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 09, 2013 1:58 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>
>  Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the
> transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will
> vary the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle"
> but I can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves
> a millimetre or two when pushed down. Not really anymore now that the
> larger o-ring and plumbers tape is in there. Again, the cap nut is locked
> down. I didn't look at the attachment because I had the instructions in
> front of me the whole time I installed the thing .. I can see the cutaway
> drawing in my head I looked at it so much  :)
>
> Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take tools
> to do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much torque to the
> thing it being in this compromised state already. If it cracks I'm in big
> trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
>   RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they
> can't let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but
> then I'm paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one
> place... "or more depending on time".
> I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the
> sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at
> worst .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks
> again for some reason when it goes back in.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price wrote:
>
>>  Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and,
>> if necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
>>
>> Chris Price
>> Pradel
>> 35 Mk I
>>
>> --
>> *From: *"Stevan Plavsa" 
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Sent: *Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>>
>>
>> I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the
>> threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much
>> force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the
>> thru-hull now I'm in trouble.
>>
>> Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
>>
>> I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing
>> this ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system.
>> Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they
>> weren't kidding!
>> It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I
>> also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C
>> related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in
>> the winter and spring :D
>>
>> I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably
>> what's going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus
>> shipping etc.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen wrote:
>>
>>>  Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place.
>>>
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Frederick G Street]

It wouldn't be a boat unless it gave you great stories to tell.  Remind me to 
tell you sometime about the first year I got my previous boat, a C&C30mkI -- I 
renamed her properly, then she just about sank in the slip on the Fourth of 
July…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 9, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> Thanks Fred, that's very helpful but if I go ahead I'll simply order it from 
> defender or binnacle. At this point it's not leaking anymore so it's not a 
> panic situation anymore. 
> 
> The lock nut is not cross threaded, neither the cap nut.
> 
> One thing that sucks about this is that we renamed the boat. My girlfriend is 
> now anxious that the boat has a curse on it. We did the proper de-naming 
> ceremony on the hard. We were going to do the naming ceremony as soon as the 
> boat splashed down but we both agreed that the place we were in had terrible 
> karma and that we were better off doing the naming at our own mooring. We did 
> the ceremony right before bringing the boat to the dock. Smashing a champagne 
> bottle is very satisfying.

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Stevan Plavsa]

Yeah a guy at the club sank at his mooring last season .. Tanzer 26 .. he
had renamed that one too.

Great stories are one thing .. this story sucks so far! I bore myself
telling it!
Thank you all for the input and advice.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:31 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> It wouldn't be a boat unless it gave you great stories to tell.  Remind me
> to tell you sometime about the first year I got my previous boat, a
> C&C30mkI -- I renamed her properly, then she just about sank in the slip on
> the Fourth of July…   :^)
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On May 9, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>
> Thanks Fred, that's very helpful but if I go ahead I'll simply order it
> from defender or binnacle. At this point it's not leaking anymore so it's
> not a panic situation anymore.
>
> The lock nut is not cross threaded, neither the cap nut.
>
> One thing that sucks about this is that we renamed the boat. My girlfriend
> is now anxious that the boat has a curse on it. We did the proper de-naming
> ceremony on the hard. We were going to do the naming ceremony as soon as
> the boat splashed down but we both agreed that the place we were in had
> terrible karma and that we were better off doing the naming at our own
> mooring. We did the ceremony right before bringing the boat to the dock.
> Smashing a champagne bottle is very satisfying.
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Dennis C.]

Did you install the depth transducer?  Are they the same?  Can you swap the 2 
transducers?  If the leak moves, it's the transducer. If not, it's the thru 
hull. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 9, 2013, at 12:08 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> Rick, thanks for the separate email with the attachment, that is one thorough 
> manual! The one I got wasn't that thorough. But the instructions are the same 
> in any case I'm just impressed that the one you sent had PCB schematics!
> Anyway .. my transducer looks different, so does the plug. The lower o-ring 
> is further down than the one shown in the drawing. 
> 
> I purchased both the ST40 speed and the ST40 depth at the boat show .. I'm 
> being reminded now of another conversation had on this list about open box 
> raymarine products ... the boxes had clearly been opened, they were old stock 
> and I got them both for $300. $150 per instrument is pretty good. 
> But now I guess there's a chance that maybe parts got mixed up? I don't know, 
> I actually doubt that, I'm pretty sure the drawing in my manual shows the 
> transducer that I have, I would have noticed the difference right away like I 
> did with the manuals I was just sent.
> 
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>> Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the 
>> transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will vary 
>> the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle" but I 
>> can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves a millimetre or two 
>> when pushed down. Not really anymore now that the larger o-ring and plumbers 
>> tape is in there. Again, the cap nut is locked down. I didn't look at the 
>> attachment because I had the instructions in front of me the whole time I 
>> installed the thing .. I can see the cutaway drawing in my head I looked at 
>> it so much  :)
>> 
>> Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take tools 
>> to do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much torque to the 
>> thing it being in this compromised state already. If it cracks I'm in big 
>> trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
>> 
>> RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they can't 
>> let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but then I'm 
>> paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one place... "or 
>> more depending on time". 
>> I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the 
>> sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at worst 
>> .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks again for 
>> some reason when it goes back in. 
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price  wrote:
>>> Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and, if 
>>> necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
>>> 
>>> Chris Price
>>> Pradel
>>> 35 Mk I
>>> 
>>> From: "Stevan Plavsa" 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the 
>>> threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much 
>>> force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the 
>>> thru-hull now I'm in trouble.
>>> 
>>> Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
>>> 
>>> I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing this 
>>> ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system. 
>>> Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they weren't 
>>> kidding!
>>> It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I 
>>> also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C 
>>> related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in 
>>> the winter and spring :D
>>> 
>>> I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably what's 
>>> going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus shipping 
>>> etc.
>>> 
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen  
>>> wrote:
 Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place.  
 
 Alan Bergen
 C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
 Rose City YC
 Portland, OR
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> htt

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Knowles Rich]

Steve:  those through hull casings are extremely tough. Those who have had to 
remove them will attest to that. I suggest you pull the transducer, grease it 
well and reinsert it. Put the cap on snugly and your problem leak may well 
vanish. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-09, at 14:27, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

Thanks Fred, that's very helpful but if I go ahead I'll simply order it from 
defender or binnacle. At this point it's not leaking anymore so it's not a 
panic situation anymore. 

The lock nut is not cross threaded, neither the cap nut.

One thing that sucks about this is that we renamed the boat. My girlfriend is 
now anxious that the boat has a curse on it. We did the proper de-naming 
ceremony on the hard. We were going to do the naming ceremony as soon as the 
boat splashed down but we both agreed that the place we were in had terrible 
karma and that we were better off doing the naming at our own mooring. We did 
the ceremony right before bringing the boat to the dock. Smashing a champagne 
bottle is very satisfying.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:09 PM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
> is it cross threaded?
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
> Plavsa
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 1:58 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
> 
> Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the transducer 
> a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will vary the amount 
> of water  getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle" but I can push 
> down on it,  which seems weird to me, it moves a millimetre or two when 
> pushed down. Not really anymore now that the larger o-ring and plumbers tape 
> is in there. Again, the cap nut is locked down. I didn't look at the 
> attachment because I had the instructions in front of me the whole time I 
> installed the thing .. I can see the cutaway drawing in my head I looked at 
> it so much  :)
> 
> Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take tools to 
> do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much torque to the 
> thing it being in this  compromised state already. If it cracks I'm in big 
> trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
> 
> RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they can't  
> let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but then I'm 
> paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one place... "or 
> more depending on time". 
> I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the 
> sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at worst 
> .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks again for 
> some reason when it goes back in. 
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price  wrote:
>> Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and, if 
>> necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
>> 
>> Chris Price
>> Pradel
>> 35 Mk I
>> 
>> From: "Stevan Plavsa" 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>> 
>> 
>> I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the 
>> threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much force 
>> to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the thru-hull now 
>> I'm in trouble.
>> 
>> Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
>> 
>> I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing this 
>> ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system. 
>> Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they weren't 
>> kidding!
>> It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I 
>> also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C 
>> related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in 
>> the winter and spring :D
>> 
>> I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably what's 
>> going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus shipping 
>> etc.
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen  
>> wrote:
>>> Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place.  
>>> 
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Stevan Plavsa]

Rich I've had that transducer and plug in and out so many times that
opening a hole in the bottom of my boat has become a relaxed activity.
Larger o-rings stopped the leak. I'm just concerned that the integrity of
the thru-hull has been compromised.

Dennis, it's definitely the housing. I've replaced the transducer with the
blank plug and same same.
I haven't gotten to the depth instrument yet because I have an airmar
through-the-hull one installed and I'm hoping it works with that one.
Haven't yet tested it however. The instruments aren't yet mounted I just
did the thru-hull because it was a pre-launch requirement.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:47 PM, Knowles Rich  wrote:

> Steve:  those through hull casings are extremely tough. Those who have had
> to remove them will attest to that. I suggest you pull the transducer,
> grease it well and reinsert it. Put the cap on snugly and your problem leak
> may well vanish.
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-05-09, at 14:27, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>
> Thanks Fred, that's very helpful but if I go ahead I'll simply order it
> from defender or binnacle. At this point it's not leaking anymore so it's
> not a panic situation anymore.
>
> The lock nut is not cross threaded, neither the cap nut.
>
> One thing that sucks about this is that we renamed the boat. My girlfriend
> is now anxious that the boat has a curse on it. We did the proper de-naming
> ceremony on the hard. We were going to do the naming ceremony as soon as
> the boat splashed down but we both agreed that the place we were in had
> terrible karma and that we were better off doing the naming at our own
> mooring. We did the ceremony right before bringing the boat to the dock.
> Smashing a champagne bottle is very satisfying.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:09 PM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
>
>> **
>> is it cross threaded?
>>
>>  --
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
>> Plavsa
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 09, 2013 1:58 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>>
>>  Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the
>> transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will
>> vary the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle"
>> but I can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves
>> a millimetre or two when pushed down. Not really anymore now that the
>> larger o-ring and plumbers tape is in there. Again, the cap nut is locked
>> down. I didn't look at the attachment because I had the instructions in
>> front of me the whole time I installed the thing .. I can see the cutaway
>> drawing in my head I looked at it so much  :)
>>
>> Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take
>> tools to do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much torque
>> to the thing it being in this compromised state already. If it cracks I'm
>> in big trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
>>   RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they
>> can't let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but
>> then I'm paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one
>> place... "or more depending on time".
>> I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the
>> sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at
>> worst .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks
>> again for some reason when it goes back in.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price wrote:
>>
>>>  Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and,
>>> if necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
>>>
>>> Chris Price
>>> Pradel
>>> 35 Mk I
>>>
>>> --
>>> *From: *"Stevan Plavsa" 
>>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Sent: *Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
>>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>>>
>>>
>>> I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the
>>> threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much
>>> force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the
>>> thru-hull now I'm in trouble.
>>>
>>> Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
>>>
>>> I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing
>>> this ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system.
>>> Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they
>>> weren't kidding!
>>> It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else.
>>> I also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C
>>> related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in
>>> the winter and spring :D
>

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[dwight veinot]

Man you have to stop that leak.if you can't do it yourself then get help

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: May 9, 2013 12:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

 

I installed an ST40 thru-hull in my bow where the old knot-meter thru-hull
used to be. Same size hole and all. Backing block was completely dry and rot
free so I left it alone and didn't replace it. I used 4200 to seal the thing
in there. Now, the hole is located at the 'vee' of the hull and the
instructions say "hand tighten only". Well, I hand tightened alright, but
like .. hand TIGHTENED. Apparently I'm a lot stronger than whoever wrote the
instructions ... I'll get to that later.

 

As soon as the boat was floating I went in and had a look at all of the
thru-hulls .. all but one, of course, the new knot meter! I had also
replaced a thru-hull for the galley drain located just behind the
companionway steps this winter and last year I replaced three others. No
problems with any of those. 

 

I'm blaming a stressful launch for my failure to check on that thru-hull.
Anyway, it was leaking. We only discovered while underway half way back to
the club. I didn't want to go back because I swore I'de never go back there
after my experience with haul-out and launch this year, it's a terrible
place. I figured if I have to haul the boat I'll do it somewhere else and
there are other places. The leak wasn't sinking the boat or anything but I
noticed something odd .. a previous owner had glassed over the limber hole
from the bow section to the bilge. So, the bilge pump wasn't going and the
bilge water wasn't rising so that's another reason I didn't notice. I'm on a
mooring so I took the boat to the shared dock to survey the situation. The
leak was pretty bad. The bow had about a foot of water in it after 45
minutes in the water, not good. 

 

I bailed all the water out to observe the leak and it was surely coming from
the housing, NOT from between the hull and thru-hull fitting .. rather, from
between the thru-hull fitting (housing) and transducer. Ok I thought, it's
either the housing or the ducer .. I put in the blank, same leak. Ok, so
it's the housing, WTF. 

 

I messed with it until I got the leak slowed down to a trickle and left it
alone. Yes both o-rings were present on both the transducer and blank plug,
I had also lubed them with the provided silicon lubricant. This housing keep
in mind, is the newer design with the flapper valve, whole thing is plastic.
I drove back to check on it again later that evening and the water ingress
wasn't too bad. I bailed the half bucket of water out and called it a night.

 

The next morning I took the day off work and started making calls to local
marinas pricing out a haul out and calling the chandleries to find a
replacement thru-hull. No one had what I needed in stock and everyone was
busy with launch, they could make time for me, but it was going to be
expensive! I weighed my options and decided to try the cheapest, lowest risk
option first .. bigger o-rings. This was recommended to me by an employee at
one of the chandleries and he pretty much saved the day. I happened to have
the EXACT o-ring on board! One of them anyway, the larger upper one .. I had
purchased a pack of replacement o-rings for the fuel fill, there were three
o-rings in the package so I had two left, just enough for both the plug and
ducer!

 

This slowed the ingress down to a trickle, barely noticable. After 45
minutes there was maybe two tablespoons of water in the bow. Ok, now we're
making progress. I went to home depot and bought a pack of assorted o-rings
but none of them were the right diameter or thickness ... I also purchased
yellow plumbers tape. I put a few wraps around the ducer UNDER where the
lower o-ring is located and slipped the o-ring over the layers of plumbers
tape. LEAK STOPPED. Just about anyway, if I 'jiggle' the transducer I can
get it to leak but if i leave it alone the area remains dry.

 

My theory is that I overtightened the thru-hull fitting causing it to deform
due to it's location on the curved part of the hull. The hole is flat mind
you and the flange fits in just fine but I don't know .. that's my theory. I
know that these plastic thru-hulls are prone to cracking when
over-tightened... I don't think mine is cracked because the larger o-rings
have stopped the leak.

 

So finally my questions:

 

1. is my thinking ok? Is it possible that the housing IS in fact cracked? I
can't see any cracks.

2. how critical is a boat haul? If the housing isn't cracked what are the
chances that it COULD crack while in some chop or something? I imagine the
hull is pretty rigid up there at the vee of the bow, it's thick and not a
large unsupported area. 

 

My gut tells me to haul the boat and replace the thru-hull with raymarine'

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Knowles Rich]

Older transducers will not fit the newer cases properly. You may well have a 
mixed set. Your girlfriend might be right! :)

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-09, at 14:08, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

Rick, thanks for the separate email with the attachment, that is one thorough 
manual! The one I got wasn't that thorough. But the instructions are the same 
in any case I'm just impressed that the one you sent had PCB schematics!
Anyway .. my transducer looks different, so does the plug. The lower o-ring is 
further down than the one shown in the drawing. 

I purchased both the ST40 speed and the ST40 depth at the boat show .. I'm 
being reminded now of another conversation had on this list about open box 
raymarine products ... the boxes had clearly been opened, they were old stock 
and I got them both for $300. $150 per instrument is pretty good. 
But now I guess there's a chance that maybe parts got mixed up? I don't know, I 
actually doubt that, I'm pretty sure the drawing in my manual shows the 
transducer that I have, I would have noticed the difference right away like I 
did with the manuals I was just sent.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
> Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the transducer 
> a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will vary the amount 
> of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle" but I can push down 
> on it, which seems weird to me, it moves a millimetre or two when pushed 
> down. Not really anymore now that the larger o-ring and plumbers tape is in 
> there. Again, the cap nut is locked down. I didn't look at the attachment 
> because I had the instructions in front of me the whole time I installed the 
> thing .. I can see the cutaway drawing in my head I looked at it so much  :)
> 
> Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take tools to 
> do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much torque to the 
> thing it being in this compromised state already. If it cracks I'm in big 
> trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
> 
> RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they can't 
> let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but then I'm 
> paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one place... "or 
> more depending on time". 
> I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the 
> sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at worst 
> .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks again for 
> some reason when it goes back in. 
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price  wrote:
>> Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and, if 
>> necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
>> 
>> Chris Price
>> Pradel
>> 35 Mk I
>> 
>> From: "Stevan Plavsa" 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>> 
>> 
>> I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the 
>> threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much force 
>> to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the thru-hull now 
>> I'm in trouble.
>> 
>> Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
>> 
>> I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing this 
>> ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system. 
>> Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they weren't 
>> kidding!
>> It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I 
>> also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C 
>> related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in 
>> the winter and spring :D
>> 
>> I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably what's 
>> going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus shipping 
>> etc.
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen  
>> wrote:
>>> Try backing off the nut that holds the housing in place.  
>>> 
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Hoyt, Mike]

take pictures.  post here and ask raymarine support or dealers.  if as
simple as a different transducer for the housing a very simple fix.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Knowles Rich
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 2:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak


Older transducers will not fit the newer cases properly. You may well
have a mixed set. Your girlfriend might be right! :)


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-09, at 14:08, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:


Rick, thanks for the separate email with the attachment, that is one
thorough manual! The one I got wasn't that thorough. But the
instructions are the same in any case I'm just impressed that the one
you sent had PCB schematics! 
Anyway .. my transducer looks different, so does the plug. The lower
o-ring is further down than the one shown in the drawing. 

I purchased both the ST40 speed and the ST40 depth at the boat show ..
I'm being reminded now of another conversation had on this list about
open box raymarine products ... the boxes had clearly been opened, they
were old stock and I got them both for $300. $150 per instrument is
pretty good. 
But now I guess there's a chance that maybe parts got mixed up? I don't
know, I actually doubt that, I'm pretty sure the drawing in my manual
shows the transducer that I have, I would have noticed the difference
right away like I did with the manuals I was just sent.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
wrote:


Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate
the transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that
will vary the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly
"jiggle" but I can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves a
millimetre or two when pushed down. Not really anymore now that the
larger o-ring and plumbers tape is in there. Again, the cap nut is
locked down. I didn't look at the attachment because I had the
instructions in front of me the whole time I installed the thing .. I
can see the cutaway drawing in my head I looked at it so much  :) 

Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will
take tools to do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much
torque to the thing it being in this compromised state already. If it
cracks I'm in big trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
  
RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats
they can't let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands
but then I'm paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at
one place... "or more depending on time". 
I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and
let the sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12
hours, at worst .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that
it leaks again for some reason when it goes back in. 

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price
 wrote:


Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you
change it out, and, if necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no
harm done.

Chris Price
Pradel
35 Mk I




From: "Stevan Plavsa" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls -
had a leak 


I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some
sealant got into the threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned
about applying much force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water.
If I crack the thru-hull now I'm in trouble. 

Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*

I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's
why I'm weighing this ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a
solar charging system. 
Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of
admission they weren't kidding!
It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and
everything else. I also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some
$love$. It's C&C related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to
and from my boat in the winter and spring :D

I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so
that's probably what's going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze
thru-hull is 155 plus shipping etc.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen
 wrote:


Try backing off the nut that holds the housing
in

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Stevan Plavsa]

The leak is stopped!
What I'm concerned about is the integrity of the housing. If it's indeed
deformed due to over tightening then how prone is it to .. breaking?

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

> **
> take pictures.  post here and ask raymarine support or dealers.  if as
> simple as a different transducer for the housing a very simple fix.
>
>  --
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Knowles
> Rich
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 09, 2013 2:53 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>
>  Older transducers will not fit the newer cases properly. You may well
> have a mixed set. Your girlfriend might be right! :)
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-05-09, at 14:08, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>
>  Rick, thanks for the separate email with the attachment, that is one
> thorough manual! The one I got wasn't that thorough. But the instructions
> are the same in any case I'm just impressed that the one you sent had PCB
> schematics!
> Anyway .. my transducer looks different, so does the plug. The lower
> o-ring is further down than the one shown in the drawing.
>
> I purchased both the ST40 speed and the ST40 depth at the boat show .. I'm
> being reminded now of another conversation had on this list about open box
> raymarine products ... the boxes had clearly been opened, they were old
> stock and I got them both for $300. $150 per instrument is pretty good.
> But now I guess there's a chance that maybe parts got mixed up? I don't
> know, I actually doubt that, I'm pretty sure the drawing in my manual shows
> the transducer that I have, I would have noticed the difference right away
> like I did with the manuals I was just sent.
>
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
>
>>  Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the
>> transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will
>> vary the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle"
>> but I can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves
>> a millimetre or two when pushed down. Not really anymore now that the
>> larger o-ring and plumbers tape is in there. Again, the cap nut is locked
>> down. I didn't look at the attachment because I had the instructions in
>> front of me the whole time I installed the thing .. I can see the cutaway
>> drawing in my head I looked at it so much  :)
>>
>> Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take
>> tools to do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying that much torque
>> to the thing it being in this compromised state already. If it cracks I'm
>> in big trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
>>   RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they
>> can't let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but
>> then I'm paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one
>> place... "or more depending on time".
>> I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the
>> sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at
>> worst .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks
>> again for some reason when it goes back in.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price wrote:
>>
>>>  Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and,
>>> if necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
>>>
>>> Chris Price
>>> Pradel
>>> 35 Mk I
>>>
>>> --
>>> *From: *"Stevan Plavsa" 
>>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Sent: *Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
>>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>>>
>>>
>>> I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the
>>> threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much
>>> force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the
>>> thru-hull now I'm in trouble.
>>>
>>> Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
>>>
>>> I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing
>>> this ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system.
>>> Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they
>>> weren't kidding!
>>> It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else.
>>> I also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C
>>> related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in
>>> the winter and spring :D
>>>
>>> I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably
>>> what's going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus
>>> shipping etc.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 11:48 AM, Alan Bergen 
>>

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Steve Thomas]

Measure it.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak


The leak is stopped!
What I'm concerned about is the integrity of the housing. If it's indeed 
deformed due to over tightening then how prone is it to
.. breaking?


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

  take pictures.  post here and ask raymarine support or dealers.  if as simple 
as a different transducer for the housing a very
simple fix.



--
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles 
Rich
  Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 2:53 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak



  Older transducers will not fit the newer cases properly. You may well have a 
mixed set. Your girlfriend might be right! :)


  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax

  On 2013-05-09, at 14:08, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:


  Rick, thanks for the separate email with the attachment, that is one thorough 
manual! The one I got wasn't that thorough. But
the instructions are the same in any case I'm just impressed that the one you 
sent had PCB schematics!
  Anyway .. my transducer looks different, so does the plug. The lower o-ring 
is further down than the one shown in the drawing.


  I purchased both the ST40 speed and the ST40 depth at the boat show .. I'm 
being reminded now of another conversation had on
this list about open box raymarine products ... the boxes had clearly been 
opened, they were old stock and I got them both for
$300. $150 per instrument is pretty good.
  But now I guess there's a chance that maybe parts got mixed up? I don't know, 
I actually doubt that, I'm pretty sure the drawing
in my manual shows the transducer that I have, I would have noticed the 
difference right away like I did with the manuals I was
just sent.




  Steve
  Suhana, C&C 32
  Toronto



  On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the 
transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway
allows, that will vary the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't 
exactly "jiggle" but I can push down on it, which seems
weird to me, it moves a millimetre or two when pushed down. Not really anymore 
now that the larger o-ring and plumbers tape is in
there. Again, the cap nut is locked down. I didn't look at the attachment 
because I had the instructions in front of me the whole
time I installed the thing .. I can see the cutaway drawing in my head I looked 
at it so much  :)


Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take tools 
to do it. It is stuck on good! I'm wary of applying
that much torque to the thing it being in this compromised state already. If it 
cracks I'm in big trouble the boat being in the
water and everything.

RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they can't 
let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on
jack stands but then I'm paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 
at one place... "or more depending on time".
I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the 
sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at
best 12 hours, at worst .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that 
it leaks again for some reason when it goes back
in.


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price  wrote:

  Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and, if 
necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm
done.

  Chris Price
  Pradel
  35 Mk I


--
  From: "Stevan Plavsa" 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak



  I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the 
threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned
about applying much force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I 
crack the thru-hull now I'm in trouble.


  Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*


  I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing 
this ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a
solar charging system.
  Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they 
weren't kidding!
  It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I 
also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires
some $love$. It's C&C related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to 
and from my boat in the winter and spring :D


  I've been leaning towards a haul t

Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak

[Knowles Rich]

It will not break. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-09, at 15:12, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

The leak is stopped!
What I'm concerned about is the integrity of the housing. If it's indeed 
deformed due to over tightening then how prone is it to .. breaking?

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 1:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
> take pictures.  post here and ask raymarine support or dealers.  if as simple 
> as a different transducer for the housing a very simple fix.
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles 
> Rich
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 2:53 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
> 
> Older transducers will not fit the newer cases properly. You may well have a 
> mixed set. Your girlfriend might be right! :)
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On 2013-05-09, at 14:08, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
> 
> Rick, thanks for the separate email with the attachment, that is one thorough 
> manual! The one I got wasn't that thorough. But the instructions are the same 
> in any case I'm just impressed that the one you sent had PCB schematics!
> Anyway .. my transducer looks different, so does the plug. The lower o-ring  
> is further down than the one shown in the drawing. 
> 
> I purchased both the ST40 speed and the ST40 depth at the boat show .. I'm 
> being reminded now of another conversation had on this list about open box 
> raymarine products ... the boxes had clearly been opened, they were old stock 
> and I got them both for $300. $150 per instrument is pretty good. 
> But now I guess there's a chance that maybe parts got mixed up? I don't know, 
> I actually doubt that, I'm pretty sure the drawing in my manual shows the 
> transducer that I have, I would have noticed the difference right away like I 
> did with the manuals I was just sent.
> 
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>> Hi, yup the cap nut is tightened down snug. I can still rotate the 
>> transducer a wee bit, just as much as the key-cutaway allows, that will vary 
>> the amount of water getting in by a bit. It doesn't exactly "jiggle" but I 
>> can push down on it, which seems weird to me, it moves a millimetre or two 
>> when pushed down. Not really anymore now that the larger o-ring and plumbers 
>> tape is in there. Again, the cap nut is locked down. I didn't look at the 
>> attachment because I had the instructions in front of me the whole time I 
>> installed the thing .. I can see the cutaway drawing in my head I looked at 
>> it so much  :)  
>> 
>> Loosening the lock nut is a no go at this point because it will take tools 
>> to do it. It is stuckon good! I'm wary of applying that much torque to 
>> the thing it being in this compromised state already. If it cracks I'm in 
>> big trouble the boat being in the water and everything.
>> 
>> RE: slings. With all the travellifts being busy launching boats they can't 
>> let me sit in the slings. They can put me down on jack stands but then I'm 
>> paying for haul, launch and storage. I was quoted $450 at one place... "or   
>>  more depending on time". 
>> I have to pull out the old thru-hull and install a new one and let the 
>> sealant cure so the boat will be out of the water at best 12 hours, at worst 
>> .. I don't even know. Then there's the possibility that it leaks again for 
>> some reason when it goes back in. 
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Chris Price  wrote:
>>> Would the yard let you sit in the slings while you change it out, and, if 
>>> necessary, haul you out? If not necessary, no harm done.
>>> 
>>> Chris Price
>>> Pradel
>>> 35 Mk I
>>> 
>>> From: "Stevan Plavsa" 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 11:59:16 AM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine plastic thru hulls - had a leak
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I tried backing off the nut but it's stuck .. some sealant got into the 
>>> threads. Now, I could loosen it, but I'm concerned about applying much 
>>> force to that thru-hull with the boat in the water. If I crack the 
>>> thru-hull now I'm in trouble.
>>> 
>>> Plastic. * exaggerated eye roll*
>>> 
>>> I am indeed on a mooring without a charger and that's why I'm weighing this 
>>> ... it's either a haul and new thru-hull or a solar charging system. 
>>> Jeez when someone said the boat was only the cost of admission they weren't 
>>> kidding!
>>> It's been an expensive spring what with a new sail and everything else. I 
>>> also bought an old mercedes wagon that requires some $love$. It's C&C 
>>> related because I bought the thing to haul cushions to and from my boat in 
>>> the winter and spring :D
>>> 
>>> I've been leaning towards a haul this whole time so that's probably what's 
>>> going to have to happen. Dammit. The bronze thru-hull is 155 plus shipping 
>>> etc.
>>> 
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C

Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Curtis]

Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is
done and I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill
on the mast front to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not
mount because on the raised area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas
with photos? or a place to purchase it.

-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

___
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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Don Wagner]

As I recall, the steaming light or sometimes called the bow light was a 
Perko stern light, and instead of being mounted horizontally on the stern 
rail, It was mounted vertically on a boss, welded to the mast.

I still have an old 30 mast, but the light has been removed.

I owned C&C 30, hull # 100, "Red Baron"
Bought her new in Nov 1972. Sold her in 1986 When  I bought my present C&C 
41 CB, Der Baron.


Don Wagner
- Original Message - 
From: "Curtis" 

To: 
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 3:09 PM
Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?


Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is
done and I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill
on the mast front to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not
mount because on the raised area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas
with photos? or a place to purchase it.

--
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.”

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 



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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Della Barba, Joe]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-Carver-25-Boat-W-260-OMC-GM-5-7-350-Perko-Stern-Anchor-Light-/281098170583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4172c1b0d7#ht_347wt_1164

Joe Della Barba

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 3:10 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is done and 
I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill on the mast front 
to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not mount because on the raised 
area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas with photos? or a place to purchase it.

--
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the 
realist adjusts the sails."

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Dennis C.]

Is it the round all around light mounted on a metal doughnut looking thing 
welded onto the front of the mast?  Touche' had that.  If so, it's a Perko 945 
stern light.  Easily found.

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/PKO-945DPSTS/?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google&gclid=CL_VhtePircCFQqi4AodKkUArQ

I chunked the old fixture and mounted a nice bow/foredeck light a foot or two 
higher.  Had to drop wires but that wasn't a huge deal.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: Curtis 
>To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 2:09 PM
>Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?
> 
>
>Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is
>done and I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill
>on the mast front to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not
>mount because on the raised area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas
>with photos? or a place to purchase it.
>
>-- 
>“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
>change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>___
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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Rich Knowles]

I suggest this might be an opportunity for improvement. I've installed deck 
light/masthead combinations on those masts with good success. Those old Perko 
lights were prone to clouding if they were plastic. Also, from the Colregs, 

"Masthead light" (Steaming Light rk) means a white light on the centreline of 
the vessel showing from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either 
side of the vessel.
And:
"Sternlight" means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern 
showing 67.5 degrees from right aft on each side of the vessel.

Using a stern light as a steaming light means that a portion of the illuminated 
sector to port and starboard will be missing abeam of the vessel.

Check out: http://ca.binnacle.com/Lights/c23/index.html for some ideas.

Rich Knowles
Indigo - C&C LF38
Halifax - Nova Scotia


On 2013-05-09, at 19:02, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-Carver-25-Boat-W-260-OMC-GM-5-7-350-Perko-Stern-Anchor-Light-/281098170583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4172c1b0d7#ht_347wt_1164
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 3:10 PM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?
> 
> Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is done 
> and I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill on the mast 
> front to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not mount because on the 
> raised area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas with photos? or a place to 
> purchase it.
> 
> --
> "The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; 
> the realist adjusts the sails."
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Della Barba, Joe]

The one I linked to is not a stern light – more like an anchor light.

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 7:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

I suggest this might be an opportunity for improvement. I've installed deck 
light/masthead combinations on those masts with good success. Those old Perko 
lights were prone to clouding if they were plastic. Also, from the Colregs,

"Masthead light" (Steaming Light rk) means a white light on the centreline of 
the vessel showing from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either 
side of the vessel.
And:
"Sternlight" means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern 
showing 67.5 degrees from right aft on each side of the vessel.

Using a stern light as a steaming light means that a portion of the illuminated 
sector to port and starboard will be missing abeam of the vessel.

Check out: http://ca.binnacle.com/Lights/c23/index.html for some ideas.

Rich Knowles
Indigo - C&C LF38
Halifax - Nova Scotia


On 2013-05-09, at 19:02, "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>> wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-Carver-25-Boat-W-260-OMC-GM-5-7-350-Perko-Stern-Anchor-Light-/281098170583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4172c1b0d7#ht_347wt_1164

Joe Della Barba

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 3:10 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is done and 
I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill on the mast front 
to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not mount because on the raised 
area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas with photos? or a place to purchase it.

--
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the 
realist adjusts the sails."

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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Re: Stus-List WindowA Again

[John and Maryann Read]

It was not quick setting.  One of the essential keys is the spacers between
the new glass and the hull frame so there is sufficient thickness of
sealant.  We drilled small holes in each corner and used screws to
temporarily hold the glass in place while it cured.  It is very sensitive to
shelf life, temperature and humidity.  As I recall it also recommended the
boat be on the hard so there was no movement while curing and something like
a week to fully cure

 

Sikaflex has an excellent web site with very detailed instructions - highly
recommended reading

 

John & Maryann

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Thomas
Mikos
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List WindowA Again

 

Thanks John & Maryann ,

 

Is the Sikaflex 295UV quick setting or did you have to build forms for an
extended trying time? Will be trying to keep myself and crew try for the
Chicago Mac race.

 

Tom Mikos 

Escape C&C 33-2

Hammond Indiana 

 

  _  

From: John and Maryann Read 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 6:35 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List WindowA Again

 

We did it over 5 years ago with Sikaflex 295UV.  No issues no leaks

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 8:35 PM
To: Thomas Mikos; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List WindowA Again

 

I went with Dow 795 following Select Plastics recommendation. It's only been
one year, but very happy with the results. 

--

Jonathan

Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On May 8, 2013, at 20:30, Thomas Mikos  wrote:

Just an inquiry to the group to determine if there is any new adhesives
being used for window adherence for my CC33-2. I have reattached with Plexus
or Methacrylate in the past and it appears that I am up for another try.
Anything new or is it still plexus adhesives .

 

Thanks Tom 

Hammond Indiana

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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Sam Salter]

It is a Perko.
I put a new one on my mast when I had it down last year.
Fitted perfectly.
Sam :-)

On 2013-05-09, at 6:32 PM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> The one I linked to is not a stern light – more like an anchor light.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
> Knowles
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 7:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?
>  
> I suggest this might be an opportunity for improvement. I've installed deck 
> light/masthead combinations on those masts with good success. Those old Perko 
> lights were prone to clouding if they were plastic. Also, from the Colregs, 
>  
> "Masthead light" (Steaming Light rk) means a white light on the centreline of 
> the vessel showing from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either 
> side of the vessel.
> And:
> "Sternlight" means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern 
> showing 67.5 degrees from right aft on each side of the vessel.
>  
> Using a stern light as a steaming light means that a portion of the 
> illuminated sector to port and starboard will be missing abeam of the vessel.
>  
> Check out: http://ca.binnacle.com/Lights/c23/index.html for some ideas.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo - C&C LF38
> Halifax - Nova Scotia
>  
> 
> On 2013-05-09, at 19:02, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-Carver-25-Boat-W-260-OMC-GM-5-7-350-Perko-Stern-Anchor-Light-/281098170583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4172c1b0d7#ht_347wt_1164
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 3:10 PM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?
> 
> Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is done 
> and I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill on the mast 
> front to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not mount because on the 
> raised area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas with photos? or a place to 
> purchase it.
> 
> --
> "The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; 
> the realist adjusts the sails."
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Knowles Rich]

Yeah. Same problem though. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-09, at 21:32, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

The one I linked to is not a stern light – more like an anchor light.
 
Joe Della Barba
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 7:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?
 
I suggest this might be an opportunity for improvement. I've installed deck 
light/masthead combinations on those masts with good success. Those old Perko 
lights were prone to clouding if they were plastic. Also, from the Colregs, 
 
"Masthead light" (Steaming Light rk) means a white light on the centreline of 
the vessel showing from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either 
side of the vessel.
And:
"Sternlight" means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern 
showing 67.5 degrees from right aft on each side of the vessel.
 
Using a stern light as a steaming light means that a portion of the illuminated 
sector to port and starboard will be missing abeam of the vessel.
 
Check out: http://ca.binnacle.com/Lights/c23/index.html for some ideas.

Rich Knowles
Indigo - C&C LF38
Halifax - Nova Scotia
 

On 2013-05-09, at 19:02, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-Carver-25-Boat-W-260-OMC-GM-5-7-350-Perko-Stern-Anchor-Light-/281098170583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4172c1b0d7#ht_347wt_1164

Joe Della Barba

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 3:10 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is done and 
I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill on the mast front 
to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not mount because on the raised 
area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas with photos? or a place to purchase it.

--
"The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the 
realist adjusts the sails."

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Curtis]

This is correct.


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 6:58 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Is it the round all around light mounted on a metal doughnut looking thing
> welded onto the front of the mast?  Touche' had that.  If so, it's a Perko
> 945 stern light.  Easily found.
>
>
> http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/PKO-945DPSTS/?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google&gclid=CL_VhtePircCFQqi4AodKkUArQ
>
> I chunked the old fixture and mounted a nice bow/foredeck light a foot or
> two higher.  Had to drop wires but that wasn't a huge deal.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>   --
>  *From:* Curtis 
> *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2013 2:09 PM
>
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?
>
> Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is
> done and I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill
> on the mast front to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not
> mount because on the raised area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas
> with photos? or a place to purchase it.
>
> --
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
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the realist adjusts the sails.”
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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Curtis]

I dropped my wires as well? How hard is it to drop new wires? there is 2
holes at the base of the mast that run under the front seat to a bus. How
hard s it to find new wires dangling down


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 6:58 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Is it the round all around light mounted on a metal doughnut looking thing
> welded onto the front of the mast?  Touche' had that.  If so, it's a Perko
> 945 stern light.  Easily found.
>
>
> http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/PKO-945DPSTS/?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google&gclid=CL_VhtePircCFQqi4AodKkUArQ
>
> I chunked the old fixture and mounted a nice bow/foredeck light a foot or
> two higher.  Had to drop wires but that wasn't a huge deal.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>   --
>  *From:* Curtis 
> *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 9, 2013 2:09 PM
>
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?
>
> Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is
> done and I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill
> on the mast front to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not
> mount because on the raised area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas
> with photos? or a place to purchase it.
>
> --
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails.”
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Re: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?

[Knowles Rich]

Flashlight and a piece of coat hanger wire with a hook bent on one end. If 
needed, drill the holes out to 1/2 " or so. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-09, at 22:11, Curtis  wrote:

I dropped my wires as well? How hard is it to drop new wires? there is 2 holes 
at the base of the mast that run under the front seat to a bus. How hard s it 
to find new wires dangling down


On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 6:58 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> Is it the round all around light mounted on a metal doughnut looking thing 
> welded onto the front of the mast?  Touche' had that.  If so, it's a Perko 
> 945 stern light.  Easily found.
> 
> http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/PKO-945DPSTS/?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google&gclid=CL_VhtePircCFQqi4AodKkUArQ
> 
> I chunked the old fixture and mounted a nice bow/foredeck light a foot or two 
> higher.  Had to drop wires but that wasn't a huge deal.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> From: Curtis 
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 2:09 PM
> 
> Subject: Stus-List C&C30 MK1 Steamer light?
> 
> Where might one find an original fixture for a steamer light?? Mine is
> done and I need to replace it. The ptoblem in there in a raised hill
> on the mast front to hold a round fixture. All the new ones will not
> mount because on the raised area? How to fix this problem? Any ideas
> with photos? or a place to purchase it.
> 
> -- 
> “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.”
> 
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 



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realist adjusts the sails.”
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Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

[Rick Brass]

Dennis, please explain the comment about changing out the sheaves and sheave
boxes.

 

Both my 25 and 38 – which are about the same vintage as Touche’ – had wire
to rope halyards. The sheaves were the type with a curved shape for the rope
and a small curved groove for the wire. Not the type with a v-shaped grove
you see in some sheaves. I converted to all rope (3/8” in the 25 and 7/16”
on the 38 – StaSet in both cases) halyards and have seen no deformation or
chafe in the halyards in 10 years of use on the 38, and more like 15 on the
25. Plus the StaSet is just about as strong as the wire part of the wire to
rope halyards I replaced.

 

If you have the “round groove” type of sheaves, I wonder if you would need
to change them.

 

In the last few months I’ve bought two sets of spin sheets made of Dyneema
or Dyneema/MFP blend. Both the 3/8 Salsa sheets and the 5/6 light air
Flight-Line sheets are far stronger than I really need, but they float –
which will avoid reoccurrence of an expensive prop shaft and engine repair
that resulted from my last set of non-floating sheets. I’ve been thinking
that my next halyard purchase will also be Dyneema.

 

I don’t know what diameter the wire in your current halyard is, but here is
a comparison of strength of Samson AmSteel Blue with 1x19 304 stainless wire
for running rigging:

 

Diameter Amsteel   304 Wire

5/32   3600   2500

3/16   4900   3700

¼ 7700   6400

 

Of course 304 wire is stronger than 316 wire of the same diameter.

Amsteel Blue can be routed around sheaves with a diameter 8 times the line
diameter, so 2” sheaves will do.

Amsteel Blue has elongation of 0.96% at 30% of break strength, while the
wire varies from 2.3% for 5/32 to 2.4% for ¼”.

 

There is a line supplier in Pennsylvania from whom I have bought a
considerable amount of running rigging over the years (I used to live in the
next town over from his warehouse). He’s reliable and Samson dealer. He has
¼” 12-plait Dyneema SK75 halyard line on EBay right now for $0.90 per foot.
I don’t think it is Samson, but it appears to be functionally identical.

 

So I paid $1.60 something a foot for StaSet with a break strength of 7000
pounds. The stuff has elongation over 2% at 20% load. Or I can buy Dyneema
that is 10% stronger and about a third the weight ( plus being lighter, 20%
stronger,  and less than half as stretchy as the wire in the original
halyards) for about half the cost of StaSet. And splicing 12-plait Dyneema
is child’s play, a lot like splicing a poly ski rope, so I did it myself on
the sheets I made from Salsa line and saved that cost.

 

I know I can’t run the ¼ inch line through my cabin top rope clutches. But
given the strength and low stretch, I don’t see it as a problem to use the
winch and the companion horn cleat mounted on the mast to raise and secure
the halyard.

 

It seems like Dyneema halyards are a pretty good option. At least as long as
there is not something that would require a change to the mast sheaves.
Hence my question at the top of this long and rambling message.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards

 

I've been considering a Dyneema/StaSet main halyard for the same reason but
I will talk with APSLtd instead of Cajun.

To switch to an all rope, one size halyard, I'd have to change out the
sheave and sheave box.  Not sure I want to spend an hour cutting out the
opening in the mast to accommodate a wider sheave box.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Stereo constant 12V

[Rick Brass]

The Sony marine radio I installed last year has an 18ga wire and calls for a
1a or 2a fuse for the wiring to the memory. As someone already pointed out,
the current draw is a few milliamps.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:17 AM
To: billb...@sbcglobal.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stereo constant 12V

 

heh

 

I have the opposite problem. After a hard reset my deck turns my cockpit
speakers OFF :)

But only when streaming bluetooth audio, which is all I really do. It's like
5 layers into the menu and a PITA to set up each time.

15 amp fuse is what I have been reading people use on this wire, would that
be correct? I'll be hooking it up directly to the battery. 

I can't recall now whether it's 14ga or 16ga wire.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

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