Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing

[dwight veinot]

Sounds like you are doing pretty good with your C&C 24 and that she is well
equipped for racing.  I owned and raced a 1976 C&C 24 back in the early '80
but mine may not have been as well equipped as yours is.  It did have an
inboard Volvo penta engine but I installed a folding prop so I got no
adjustment for that engine. We did poorly at first but we got better with
experience, and I think you will get better with experience too, but after
only five times you are probably quite pleased and rightfully so.  Does your
boat have a mainsheet traveler?  I found the boat to be quite tender and the
mainsail was relatively small and the boom was quite high on the mast.  We
had best results in light air upwind but she would scream under spinnaker in
fresh air downwind.  She was also very good off the wind and I can remember
one very exciting leg in a race where we carried both the No.1 and triradial
spinnaker on a broad to beam reach.lots of power there on that day.  Our
most pleasing result ever was an opening day win in a mixed fleet that
included 2 world soling champions sailing their etchells 22's: all boats had
fair winds for that race including us but on evening races we often did
poorly on the final leg as the wind would die out on us just after the
faster boats finished.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ok
Sent: April 9, 2013 3:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing

 

Just wondering if there is anyone on the list who is doing or has done any
club racing in a C&C 24.  I just started racing mine this season in a very
mixed fleet on Mobile Bay.  It is the Niagara model with what I believe was
the race package or all the race rigging items were added later.  It has a
fresh bottom and a new sails.  

 

So far I have done fairly well in our pursuit style races.  Unlike some of
the comments I found online, I've been able to point fairly well, even in
some cases leaving faster boats behind close hauled.  In our mixed fleet I
am right in the middle of the pack or better.  I've only sailed it five
times. Close hauled or a close reach things seem fine.  Downwind is good.
On a beam or broad reach not so great.  I'm pretty sure it could be faster.
I set up a barber hauler and that has helped with sail shape.  I've not been
able to find the C&C 24 polars.  I figure there is a lot to learn about
course strategy and sail trim with this particular boat.  I'm pretty much
looking for any kind of pointers to help improve race results with my C&C
24.  

 

Thanks!

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5732 - Release Date: 04/08/13

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Stus-List Orange 30 footers

[Michael Brown]

Dave Heron of PCYC was reported to own an orange hulled C&C 30
called Sunburn. That boat won the 1979 Susan Hood race. Later
Dave purchased a white hulled C&C 30 he named Windburn.


Mike Brown
C&C 30
Windburn








I only recall one orange sailboat. A late 70's Peterson 43 known as "La 
Pantera" that I crewed on when it was named "Sunset" here in the Seattle area.

In the PNW there have been many white, red, and blue C&C's but I don't recall 
any other colors.

I think it was Herreshoff that said (aprox) "There are only two colors for 
boats, white and black, and only a damned fool would have a black one".

Why the interest in an orange Mk I?

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Paul Baker 
[pauljba...@shaw.ca]
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 7:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Orange 30 footers

Just out of interest, has anyone seen (or own) an orange 30' Mk1? If
only I could find one for sale...

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Hoyt, Mike]

Don
 
I asked on the Canadian Tire website a similar question about that
product a few months ago.  They finally answered and say it is similar
to CT33 because it ises a similar inductance method.  At half price at
$45 I think it is worth a try anyway.
 
You should also be aware that these meters are not all that easy to use.
I borrowed Graham's Electrophysics meter (CT100 I believe) and within 10
minutes realized I had no clue how to use it properly.
 
Mike
 
 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don
Harben
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector


  Hi folks,

This has been a very useful discussion for me but especially for my
friend currently looking at boats.  

Does anybody have comments or experience on this Pinless Moisture
Detector?
 
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/MeasuringTools/SpecialtyMe
asuring/PRD~0574572P/Mastercraft+Pinless+Moisture+Detector.jsp?locale=en

  Don





From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, April 8, 2013 2:02:56 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - cont - how to make an offer


RE: Moisture Meter 

The one I have is the CT33:
http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/no_pins.htm


It does not eliminate the need for a survey. It just eliminates
wet boats saving you from hiring a surveyor to tell you that.



On Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 11:01 AM, dwight veinot
 wrote:



My experience has always been that the buyer hires the
surveyor that he wants to do the job and therefore the buyer pays the
survey charges.  That survey is only done after the buyer and the seller
have agreed on price.  If the survey discovers issues that affect
integrity or safety the buyer can request that the seller bring those
issues to standards acceptable to his surveyor and then pay the agreed
upon price or negotiate a lower price and take on doing the work after
purchase.  If the boat passes survey the survey report will be needed to
get insurance.  If the boat fails survey and no compromise can be
reached and the buyer walks, then the buyer is still stuck with the
survey charges because the surveyor did his job.  Is it possible to get
that money back from the seller if you walk away?  I always considered
getting a survey done on a boat a fair investment on that boat before I
even own it so I did very thorough inspections myself before getting a
surveyor, besides I wanted to see with my own I eyes what I was
buying...those trips and surveys increase total cost to buy. 
 
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: April 7, 2013 10:12 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - cont - how to make an
offer

 
Lots of good advice.  

Insurance now requires a full survey that is expensive.
If you decide not to buy this boat, the full survey cost is on you and
you will pay the fee again on the next boat.  Instead I would advise you
make your offer, get a signed contract, but do a personal assessment of
the boat yourself or with more knowledgable friend.  
Step 1: Sea Trial, You can determine many physical
problems yourself.  How does the engine and transmission operate, sails,
halyards, deck layout.  Lifelines and stanchions OK?  Don't fall in
love.  Pick it apart.  If nothing looks obvious, proceed to: 
Step 2: Haul out.  You can check many things yourself;
the bottom paint condition, check keel bottom for scrapes, grounding,
check the keel root for signs of cracked glass where it meets the hull,
feel the rudder bearing play, and prop wear, cutless bearing wear.  If
still good, proceed to:
Step 3: Professional survey.  Guarantee he will find
problems, so expect a list.

Once you get your list you can research what yards will
charge to make repairs and deduct that from your offer or renegotiate.

If you decide to walk away, offer to sell the complete
survey to the owner.  I've heard some owners have paid for it, some only
paid half.  It's worthless to you at this point, but will be valuable to
a future buyer, so don't give it away.

Good luck  
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ



From

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Stevan Plavsa]

I never had any trouble using mine, what people deem so difficult about
using them I'm not sure. The mastercraft one is a quarter of the cost, go
ahead and try it and report back. I'de be curious to see how it measures up
against the CT33.



On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

> **
> Don
>
> I asked on the Canadian Tire website a similar question about that product
> a few months ago.  They finally answered and say it is similar to CT33
> because it ises a similar inductance method.  At half price at $45 I think
> it is worth a try anyway.
>
> You should also be aware that these meters are not all that easy to use.
> I borrowed Graham's Electrophysics meter (CT100 I believe) and within 10
> minutes realized I had no clue how to use it properly.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>  --
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Don
> Harben
> *Sent:* Monday, April 08, 2013 9:31 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector
>
>Hi folks,
> This has been a very useful discussion for me but especially for my friend
> currently looking at boats.
>
> Does anybody have comments or experience on this Pinless Moisture Detector?
>
>
> http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/MeasuringTools/SpecialtyMeasuring/PRD~0574572P/Mastercraft+Pinless+Moisture+Detector.jsp?locale=en
>
> *  Don*
>
>   --
> *From:* Stevan Plavsa 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Monday, April 8, 2013 2:02:56 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - cont - how to make an offer
>
>  RE: Moisture Meter
>
> The one I have is the CT33:
> http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/no_pins.htm
>
> It does not eliminate the need for a survey. It just eliminates wet boats
> saving you from hiring a surveyor to tell you that.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 11:01 AM, dwight veinot <
> dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> wrote:
>
> 
>  My experience has always been that the buyer hires the surveyor that he
> wants to do the job and therefore the buyer pays the survey charges.  That
> survey is only done after the buyer and the seller have agreed on price.
> If the survey discovers issues that affect integrity or safety the buyer
> can request that the seller bring those issues to standards acceptable to
> his surveyor and then pay the agreed upon price or negotiate a lower price
> and take on doing the work after purchase.  If the boat passes survey the
> survey report will be needed to get insurance.  If the boat fails survey
> and no compromise can be reached and the buyer walks, then the buyer is
> still stuck with the survey charges because the surveyor did his job.  Is
> it possible to get that money back from the seller if you walk away?  I
> always considered getting a survey done on a boat a fair investment on that
> boat before I even own it so I did very thorough inspections myself before
> getting a surveyor, besides I wanted to see with my own I eyes what I was
> buying…those trips and surveys increase total cost to buy. 
>  
>  Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> 
>  --
>  *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck
> S
> *Sent:* April 7, 2013 10:12 PM
>
> *To:* **cnc-list@cnc-list.com**
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - cont - how to make an offer
> 
>  
>  Lots of good advice.
>
> Insurance now requires a full survey that is expensive.  If you decide not
> to buy this boat, the full survey cost is on you and you will pay the fee
> again on the next boat.  Instead I would advise you make your offer, get a
> signed contract, but do a personal assessment of the boat yourself or with
> more knowledgable friend.
> Step 1: Sea Trial, You can determine many physical problems yourself.  How
> does the engine and transmission operate, sails, halyards, deck layout.
> Lifelines and stanchions OK?  Don't fall in love.  Pick it apart.  If
> nothing looks obvious, proceed to:
> Step 2: Haul out.  You can check many things yourself;  the bottom paint
> condition, check keel bottom for scrapes, grounding, check the keel root
> for signs of cracked glass where it meets the hull, feel the rudder bearing
> play, and prop wear, cutless bearing wear.  If still good, proceed to:
> Step 3: Professional survey.  Guarantee he will find problems, so expect a
> list.
>
> Once you get your list you can research what yards will charge to make
> repairs and deduct that from your offer or renegotiate.
>
> If you decide to walk away, offer to sell the complete survey to the
> owner.  I've heard some owners have paid for it, some only paid half.  It's
> worthless to you at this point, but will be valuable to a future buyer, so
> don't give it away.
>
> Good luck  
>  Chuck
> *Resolute*
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City**, **NJ
>  --
>  *From: *"kirk sneddon" 
> *To

Re: Stus-List Orange 30 footers

[Colin Kilgour]

I think quite a few of the Megas were/are orange.

Cheers
Colin


On 4/9/13, Michael Brown  wrote:
> Dave Heron of PCYC was reported to own an orange hulled C&C 30
> called Sunburn. That boat won the 1979 Susan Hood race. Later
> Dave purchased a white hulled C&C 30 he named Windburn.
>
>
> Mike Brown
> C&C 30
> Windburn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I only recall one orange sailboat. A late 70's Peterson 43 known as "La
> Pantera" that I crewed on when it was named "Sunset" here in the Seattle
> area.
>
> In the PNW there have been many white, red, and blue C&C's but I don't
> recall any other colors.
>
> I think it was Herreshoff that said (aprox) "There are only two colors for
> boats, white and black, and only a damned fool would have a black one".
>
> Why the interest in an orange Mk I?
>
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1970 C&C 43
> Seattle
>
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Paul Baker
> [pauljba...@shaw.ca]
> Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 7:22 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Orange 30 footers
>
> Just out of interest, has anyone seen (or own) an orange 30' Mk1? If
> only I could find one for sale...
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

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Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

[Bill Coleman]

Fred, 

Do you have a link to the LED's you used?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Hazzard
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

 

I put LED strips in place of fluorescents that were on the ceiling behind
defusers.  I control them with wireless controllers that dim and turn them
on and off.   The LED's are very bright and being able to dim them improves
the cabin ambiance a lot. 

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Collins
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 5:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

 

Switches.  I was going to add a dimmer, but have changed my mind.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-04-05 10:00 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:

Are people adding in-line switches to the LED strips or just switching them
at the breaker? 

 

Joel

35/3

The Office 

Annapolis

 

On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Michael Brown  wrote:

The white 3528 strips work well, good light output and low power.
I have them glued and tie wrapped to a strip of high density foam
board ( about 1/2" wide and 1/4" thick ) that is then screwed in
place. The plastic cover on the strip proved a bit difficult to glue.

Most of the strips have a power rating per meter, the ones I have
are < 4.8 Watts / meter. They are also rated for 12V, but your boat
may have 13.2 to 14.2 volts depending on you charging system. The
LED are fairly sensitive to voltage and could be over driven.

Add a constant current driver, a LED dimmer (also available on eBay)
or a resistor in series. If you expect the highest voltage you will
have on the boat will be 14.5v, then the resistor will need to drop
2.5v at rated current.

The strips I used where a bit under 2/3 of a meter, used about 3.2W
at 12v so required 0.250 amps of current.

To drop 2.5v at 0.250 amps you need a 10 ohm resistor
 ( Resistance in ohms = Volts / Amps ).
The resistor will need to be rated for 0.625 watts so I used a
1 watt resistor ( about $0.20 from Sayal ).
 ( Power in Watts  = Amps squared * Resistance )

Adding the resistor will dim the LEDs slightly at 12V.

For longer strips where the power to the resistor > 1 watt or
were you want the best lighting power a constant current source
is much better. Simple ones are only four components and cost
less than $10 in parts. The dimmers from China are only $8!

http://madscientisthut.com/wordpress/tag/led-current-control/


Mike
C&C 30
Windburn




> Hi All.
>
> I just volunteered my boat for a test case using these LED strip lights
that are available on ebay cheap out of china. I haven't seen them used on
boats before. They are marketed as being waterproof. There are a few
variations on the LED types with the two most common being "SMD 5050" and
"SMD 3528". The 5050 have triple LEDs so they can be made into any colour,
they are also brighter because of the triple LED and consume more. The 3528,
which I ordered, are smaller, single cell LEDs and consume less (why I chose
them). Both varieties come in 5 meter lengths for about $20. The 3528 strip
that I ordered has 600 LEDs on it! They can be cut to size. I purchased
these to provide accent lighting in the cabin. They should be bright enough
to be used as a primary light source for hanging out but not for reading
(not the way I'm installing them, anyway).
>
> For the accent lighting I'll be installing them behind the teak trim on
both sides of the boat just under the cabinets on either side. They should
be hidden from view in there and I will likely aim them UP into that void
rather than down, I'm a big fan of diffused lighting. I ordered the "natural
white 4500k" LEDs. What I'm hoping to accomplish is a nice subdued ambient
light in the cabin. I might even try a dimmer.
>
> If anyone is interested in this I can update once received and installed.
> Check them out:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
 &item=310638125425&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160
>
> For $20 I figure it's worth the gamble. They are 12V DC so should be a
snap to install.
> I've got other ideas too. I'll see how this first strip works out and I'm
curious to see what the real world power consumption is.
>
> Steve
> C&C 32
> Toronto

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 





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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Knowles Rich]

I don't think they are physically hard to use, however, meaningful 
interpretation of the readings may be another matter. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-09, at 9:47, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

I never had any trouble using mine, what people deem so difficult about using 
them I'm not sure. The mastercraft one is a quarter of the cost, go ahead and 
try it and report back. I'de be curious to see how it measures up against the 
CT33.



On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
> Don
>  
> I asked on the Canadian Tire website a similar question about that product a 
> few months ago.  They finally answered and say it is similar to CT33 because 
> it ises a similar inductance method.  At half price at $45 I think it is 
> worth a try anyway.
>  
> You should also be aware that these meters are not all that easy to use.  I 
> borrowed Graham's Electrophysics meter (CT100 I believe) and within 10 
> minutes realized I had no clue how to use it properly.
>  
> Mike
>  
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Harben
> Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:31 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector
> 
>   Hi folks,
> This has been a very useful discussion for me but especially for my friend 
> currently looking at boats.  
> 
> Does anybody have comments or experience on this Pinless Moisture Detector?
>  
> http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/MeasuringTools/SpecialtyMeasuring/PRD~0574572P/Mastercraft+Pinless+Moisture+Detector.jsp?locale=en
> 
>   Don
> 
> From: Stevan Plavsa 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Monday, April 8, 2013 2:02:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - cont - how to make an offer
> 
> RE: Moisture Meter
> 
> The one I have is the CT33:
> http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/no_pins.htm
> 
> It does not eliminate the need for a survey. It just eliminates wet boats 
> saving you from hiring a surveyor to tell you that.
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 11:01 AM, dwight veinot  
> wrote:
> My experience has always been that the buyer hires the surveyor that he wants 
> to do the job  and therefore the buyer pays the survey charges.  That 
> survey is only  done after the buyer and the seller have agreed on price. 
>  If the survey discovers issues that affect integrity or safety the buyer can 
> request that the seller bring those issues to standards acceptable to his 
> surveyor and then pay the agreed upon price or negotiate a lower price and 
> take on doing the work after purchase.  If the boat passes survey the survey 
> report will be needed to get insurance.  If the boat fails survey and no 
> compromise can be reached and the buyer walks, then the buyer is still stuck 
> with the survey charges because the surveyor did his job.  Is it possible to 
> get that money back from the seller if you walk away?  I always considered 
> getting a survey done on a boat a fair investment on that boat before I even 
> own it so I did very thorough inspections myself before getting a surveyor, 
> besides I wanted to see with  my own I eyes what I was buying…those trips 
> and surveys increase total cost to buy.
>  
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
> Sent: April 7, 2013 10:12 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - cont - how to make an offer
>  
> Lots of good advice.  
> 
> Insurance now requires a full survey that is expensive.  If you  decide 
> not to buy this boat, the full survey cost is on you and you will pay the fee 
> again on the next boat.  Instead I would advise you make your offer, get a 
> signed contract, but do a personal assessment of the boat yourself or with 
> more knowledgable friend.  
> Step 1: Sea Trial, You can determine many physical problems yourself.  How 
> does the engine and transmission operate, sails, halyards, deck layout.  
> Lifelines and stanchions OK?  Don't fall in love.  Pick it apart.  If nothing 
> looks obvious, proceed to: 
> Step 2: Haul out.  You can check many things yourself;  the bottom paint 
> condition, check keel bottom for scrapes, grounding, check the keel root for 
> signs of cracked glass where it meets the hull, feel the rudder bearing play, 
> and prop wear, cutless  bearing wear.  If still good, proceed to:
> Step 3: Professional survey.  Guarantee he will find problems, so expect a 
> list.
> 
> Once you get your list you can research what yards will charge to make 
> repairs and deduct that from your offer or renegotiate.
> 
> If you decide to walk away, offer to sell the complete survey to the owner.  
> I've heard some owners have paid for it, some only paid half.  It's worthless 
> to you at this point, but will be valuable to a future buyer, so don't give 
> it away.
> 
> Good luck 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> From: "kirk 

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Joel Aronson]

My surveyor used a Skipper moisture meter.  It had an analog gauge.  If it
jumped, it indicated a potential problem.

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 9:34 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:

> I don't think they are physically hard to use, however, meaningful
> interpretation of the readings may be another matter.
>
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-04-09, at 9:47, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>
> I never had any trouble using mine, what people deem so difficult about
> using them I'm not sure. The mastercraft one is a quarter of the cost, go
> ahead and try it and report back. I'de be curious to see how it measures up
> against the CT33.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
>
>> **
>> Don
>>
>> I asked on the Canadian Tire website a similar question about that
>> product a few months ago.  They finally answered and say it is similar to
>> CT33 because it ises a similar inductance method.  At half price at $45 I
>> think it is worth a try anyway.
>>
>> You should also be aware that these meters are not all that easy to use.
>> I borrowed Graham's Electrophysics meter (CT100 I believe) and within 10
>> minutes realized I had no clue how to use it properly.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>  --
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Don
>> Harben
>> *Sent:* Monday, April 08, 2013 9:31 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector
>>
>>Hi folks,
>> This has been a very useful discussion for me but especially for my
>> friend currently looking at boats.
>>
>> Does anybody have comments or experience on this Pinless Moisture
>> Detector?
>>
>>
>> http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/MeasuringTools/SpecialtyMeasuring/PRD~0574572P/Mastercraft+Pinless+Moisture+Detector.jsp?locale=en
>>
>> *  Don*
>>
>>   --
>> *From:* Stevan Plavsa 
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Sent:* Monday, April 8, 2013 2:02:56 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - cont - how to make an offer
>>
>>  RE: Moisture Meter
>>
>> The one I have is the CT33:
>> http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/no_pins.htm
>>
>> It does not eliminate the need for a survey. It just eliminates wet boats
>> saving you from hiring a surveyor to tell you that.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 11:01 AM, dwight veinot <
>> dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>  My experience has always been that the buyer hires the surveyor that he
>> wants to do the job and therefore the buyer pays the survey charges.  That
>> survey is only done after the buyer and the seller have agreed on price.
>> If the survey discovers issues that affect integrity or safety the buyer
>> can request that the seller bring those issues to standards acceptable to
>> his surveyor and then pay the agreed upon price or negotiate a lower price
>> and take on doing the work after purchase.  If the boat passes survey the
>> survey report will be needed to get insurance.  If the boat fails survey
>> and no compromise can be reached and the buyer walks, then the buyer is
>> still stuck with the survey charges because the surveyor did his job.  Is
>> it possible to get that money back from the seller if you walk away?  I
>> always considered getting a survey done on a boat a fair investment on that
>> boat before I even own it so I did very thorough inspections myself before
>> getting a surveyor, besides I wanted to see with my own I eyes what I was
>> buying…those trips and surveys increase total cost to buy. 
>>  
>>  Dwight Veinot
>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>> 
>>  --
>>  *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck
>> S
>> *Sent:* April 7, 2013 10:12 PM
>>
>> *To:* **cnc-list@cnc-list.com**
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - cont - how to make an offer
>> 
>>  
>>  Lots of good advice.
>>
>> Insurance now requires a full survey that is expensive.  If you decide
>> not to buy this boat, the full survey cost is on you and you will pay the
>> fee again on the next boat.  Instead I would advise you make your offer,
>> get a signed contract, but do a personal assessment of the boat yourself or
>> with more knowledgable friend.
>> Step 1: Sea Trial, You can determine many physical problems yourself.
>> How does the engine and transmission operate, sails, halyards, deck
>> layout.  Lifelines and stanchions OK?  Don't fall in love.  Pick it apart.
>> If nothing looks obvious, proceed to:
>> Step 2: Haul out.  You can check many things yourself;  the bottom paint
>> condition, check keel bottom for scrapes, grounding, check the keel root
>> for signs of cracked glass where it meets the hull, feel the rudder bearing
>> play, and prop wear, cutless bearing wear.  If still good, proceed to:
>> Step 3: Professional survey.  Guarantee he will find problems, so expect
>> a list.

Re: Stus-List MIRAGE

[Frederick G Street]

The admiral, upon seeing the photos, says,

"He's going to put that in saltwater?  What a shame for the new paint…"   :^)

She looks great, Harry -- a very classy boat for a classy homeport.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

[btw, we're under a winter storm warning, and forecast for six to eight inches 
of snow over the next couple of days…happy spring!]

On Apr 8, 2013, at 8:22 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

> Damn!  You better buy a new suit of clothes for when you go sailing.  You 
> gotta look good to just be near it.  
> Nice job.  Jealous.  Keep pics coming.

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Knowles Rich]

To my point. Did the jump mean excessive/any water under the surface or simply 
an irregularity in the thickness or nature of the fiberglass or the presence of 
plywood etc. beneath the surface???

I guess what I'm trying to note is that I believe there is plenty of 
opportunity to make erroneous judgements of what is going on under the 
fibreglass sukin. I know that there are a couple of "hollow" sounding spots on 
my boat's deck which have been there for the 16 years I have owned her with no 
evident cause for alarm. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-09, at 10:45, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> My surveyor used a Skipper moisture meter.  It had an analog gauge.  If it 
> jumped, it indicated a potential problem.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis

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Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

[Stevan Plavsa]

Hi All.

My girlfriend and I sewed on a leather wheel cover from a kit a few weeks
ago ... well, she did most of the work. The wheel is nice and it's been
sitting in the house waiting for spring. Before mounting the wheel on the
boat I wanted to know if there was anything we should do to treat the
leather before putting it out in the elements? Some kind of leather
treatment?

Thanks,
Steve
C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Joel Aronson]

Rich,
The jump in reading indicated it was an area of concern.  He tapped the
entire boat.  If the tapping and the meter correlated, he felt it was an
issue.  Fortunately, they were few and small.  In the case of a high
reading at the babystay, the issue was caused by a missing bolt.

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:12 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:

> To my point. Did the jump mean excessive/any water under the surface or
> simply an irregularity in the thickness or nature of the fiberglass or the
> presence of plywood etc. beneath the surface???
>
> I guess what I'm trying to note is that I believe there is plenty of
> opportunity to make erroneous judgements of what is going on under the
> fibreglass sukin. I know that there are a couple of "hollow" sounding spots
> on my boat's deck which have been there for the 16 years I have owned her
> with no evident cause for alarm.
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-04-09, at 10:45, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
> > My surveyor used a Skipper moisture meter.  It had an analog gauge.  If
> it jumped, it indicated a potential problem.
> >
> > Joel
> > 35/3
> > The Office
> > Annapolis
>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE

[Joel Aronson]

Fred,

You live there because ?

Joel


On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:11 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> The admiral, upon seeing the photos, says,
>
> "He's going to put that in *saltwater*?  What a shame for the new paint…"
>   :^)
>
> She looks great, Harry -- a very classy boat for a classy homeport.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> [btw, we're under a winter storm warning, and forecast for six to eight
> inches of snow over the next couple of days…happy spring!]
>
> On Apr 8, 2013, at 8:22 PM, Chuck S  wrote:
>
> Damn!  You better buy a new suit of clothes for when you go sailing.  You
> gotta look good to just be near it.
> Nice job.  Jealous.  Keep pics coming.
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)

[ok]

Mine is 1978 Niagara model with outboard motor, jiffy reefing, inboard 
headsail fairlead tracks, Cunningham, split adjustable backstay, midboom 
sheeting with traveler, boom vang, 4:1 outhaul, spinnaker stuff, everything 
lead back to the cockpit and barber haulers.  It's all kind of awkward for 
me because everything is in a different place compared to my previous boat. 
Our Thursday night races do not allow spinnakers.


Dwight I'm glad to know yours did well off the wind.  I an pretty sure if I 
can improve my sheeting angles off wind I will do better.


Thanks!
Orren



- Original Message - 
From: 

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 7:47 AM
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 87, Issue 35



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Today's Topics:

  1.  C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)
  2. Re:  C&C 24 Club Racing (dwight veinot)
  3.  Orange 30 footers (Michael Brown)
  4. Re:  C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector (Hoyt, Mike)
  5. Re:  C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector (Stevan Plavsa)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 01:43:28 -0500
From: "ok" 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Just wondering if there is anyone on the list who is doing or has done any 
club racing in a C&C 24.  I just started racing mine this season in a very 
mixed fleet on Mobile Bay.  It is the Niagara model with what I believe 
was the race package or all the race rigging items were added later.  It 
has a fresh bottom and a new sails.


So far I have done fairly well in our pursuit style races.  Unlike some of 
the comments I found online, I've been able to point fairly well, even in 
some cases leaving faster boats behind close hauled.  In our mixed fleet I 
am right in the middle of the pack or better.  I've only sailed it five 
times. Close hauled or a close reach things seem fine.  Downwind is good. 
On a beam or broad reach not so great.  I'm pretty sure it could be 
faster.  I set up a barber hauler and that has helped with sail shape. 
I've not been able to find the C&C 24 polars.  I figure there is a lot to 
learn about course strategy and sail trim with this particular boat.  I'm 
pretty much looking for any kind of pointers to help improve race results 
with my C&C 24.


Thanks!
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2013 07:17:44 -0300
From: dwight veinot 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sounds like you are doing pretty good with your C&C 24 and that she is 
well
equipped for racing.  I owned and raced a 1976 C&C 24 back in the early 
'80

but mine may not have been as well equipped as yours is.  It did have an
inboard Volvo penta engine but I installed a folding prop so I got no
adjustment for that engine. We did poorly at first but we got better with
experience, and I think you will get better with experience too, but after
only five times you are probably quite pleased and rightfully so.  Does 
your
boat have a mainsheet traveler?  I found the boat to be quite tender and 
the

mainsail was relatively small and the boom was quite high on the mast.  We
had best results in light air upwind but she would scream under spinnaker 
in
fresh air downwind.  She was also very good off the wind and I can 
remember
one very exciting leg in a race where we carried both the No.1 and 
triradial

spinnaker on a broad to beam reach.lots of power there on that day.  Our
most pleasing result ever was an opening day win in a mixed fleet that
included 2 world soling champions sailing their etchells 22's: all boats 
had

fair winds for that race including us but on evening races we often did
poorly on the final leg as the wind would die out on us just after the
faster boats finished.



Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



 _

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ok
Sent: April 9, 2013 3:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing



Just wondering if there is anyone on the list who is doing or has done any
club racing in a C&C 24.  

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Knowles Rich]

That sounds reasonable. Just hard to say whether any individual spot is water 
or simply a void. Not trying to be difficult; I simply think we should be 
cautious about measurements of the unseen. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-09, at 11:18, Joel Aronson  wrote:

Rich,
The jump in reading indicated it was an area of concern.  He tapped the entire 
boat.  If the tapping and the meter correlated, he felt it was an issue.  
Fortunately, they were few and small.  In the case of a high reading at the 
babystay, the issue was caused by a missing bolt.

Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:12 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
> To my point. Did the jump mean excessive/any water under the surface or 
> simply an irregularity in the thickness or nature of the fiberglass or the 
> presence of plywood etc. beneath the surface???
> 
> I guess what I'm trying to note is that I believe there is plenty of 
> opportunity to make erroneous judgements of what is going on under the 
> fibreglass sukin. I know that there are a couple of "hollow" sounding spots 
> on my boat's deck which have been there for the 16 years I have owned her 
> with no evident cause for alarm.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
> 
> On 2013-04-09, at 10:45, Joel Aronson  wrote:
> 
> > My surveyor used a Skipper moisture meter.  It had an analog gauge.  If it 
> > jumped, it indicated a potential problem.
> >
> > Joel
> > 35/3
> > The Office
> > Annapolis
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com



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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

[Bill Coleman]

I found what works best is having a little cover made for it all. Takes care
of wear and tear on the leather, chartplotter, mic, etc.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

 

Hi All.

 

My girlfriend and I sewed on a leather wheel cover from a kit a few weeks
ago ... well, she did most of the work. The wheel is nice and it's been
sitting in the house waiting for spring. Before mounting the wheel on the
boat I wanted to know if there was anything we should do to treat the
leather before putting it out in the elements? Some kind of leather
treatment? 

 

Thanks,

Steve

C&C 32

Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

[Tim Sippel]

I have covered a bunch of wheels  from a doeskin hide I bought (not a
kit , cut and punched by hand) the wheel is left out all summer and
still looks good after (yikes 7 years) . You might want to wet the wheel
and see if the dye runs so you don't get a stain in the cockpit.

Of course a binnacle/wheel cover is always a good option. 

 

Tim 

 

 

 

 

 

: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

 

I found what works best is having a little cover made for it all. Takes
care of wear and tear on the leather, chartplotter, mic, etc.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

 

Hi All.

 

My girlfriend and I sewed on a leather wheel cover from a kit a few
weeks ago ... well, she did most of the work. The wheel is nice and it's
been sitting in the house waiting for spring. Before mounting the wheel
on the boat I wanted to know if there was anything we should do to treat
the leather before putting it out in the elements? Some kind of leather
treatment? 

 

Thanks,

Steve

C&C 32

Toronto


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Re: Stus-List Living up north [was MIRAGE]

[Frederick G Street]

The two months of summer is fantastic…   :^)

Actually, quality of life here in Minnesota is quite good; good schools, clean 
air and water, good recreational and cultural activities, good pro football 
(okay, maybe not…); and the fresh water of Lake Superior means our boats last 
quite a long time.

We pay for it all in the winter…


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 9, 2013, at 9:19 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Fred,
> 
> You live there because ?

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Re: Stus-List Living up north [was MIRAGE]

[Bill Coleman]

I think he must be Scandinavian, and can't help himself.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Living up north [was MIRAGE]

 

The two months of summer is fantastic.   :^)

 

Actually, quality of life here in Minnesota is quite good; good schools,
clean air and water, good recreational and cultural activities, good pro
football (okay, maybe not.); and the fresh water of Lake Superior means our
boats last quite a long time.

 

We pay for it all in the winter.

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Apr 9, 2013, at 9:19 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:





Fred,

 

You live there because ?

 

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Re: Stus-List Living up north [was MIRAGE]

[Chuck Saur]

Yes, Fred.  We are still paying for it this spring...reportedly 3 feet of
ice in some locations on Lake Charlevoix, Michigan, as of last Wednesday!

Chuck Saur
C$C 35-3
Morning Sky

On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:49 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> The two months of summer is fantastic…   :^)
>
> Actually, quality of life here in Minnesota is quite good; good schools,
> clean air and water, good recreational and cultural activities, good pro
> football (okay, maybe not…); and the fresh water of Lake Superior means our
> boats last quite a long time.
>
> We pay for it all in the winter…
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>  On Apr 9, 2013, at 9:19 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> You live there because ?
>
>
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)

[Ed Dooley]

Mine is a 1983, but no racing, except when a bunch of us cruisers get
together over across Lake Champlain on the New York side at
Split Rock we sometimes try to prove our cruiser is faster getting there or
back.
Hanked on foresails, no spinnaker, adjustable split backstay (which seems
overkill for such a small mainsail), boom vang, shin ripping traveler in the
cockpit.
Ed

On 4/9/13 10:38 AM, "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com"
 wrote:

> Mine is 1978 Niagara model with outboard motor, jiffy reefing, inboard
> headsail fairlead tracks, Cunningham, split adjustable backstay, midboom
> sheeting with traveler, boom vang, 4:1 outhaul, spinnaker stuff, everything
> lead back to the cockpit and barber haulers.  It's all kind of awkward for
> me because everything is in a different place compared to my previous boat.
> Our Thursday night races do not allow spinnakers.
> 
> Dwight I'm glad to know yours did well off the wind.  I an pretty sure if I
> can improve my sheeting angles off wind I will do better.
> 
> Thanks!
> Orren

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Re: Stus-List Living up north [was MIRAGE]

[Frederick G Street]

Half-Italian, and both my parents moved here from California.  I blame them…   
:^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 9, 2013, at 10:05 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

> I think he must be Scandinavian, and can’t help himself.

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Re: Stus-List Living up north [was MIRAGE]

[Steve Thomas]

And in the winter we don't have to deal with insects.

Steve Thomas
sv Mystique
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Living up north [was MIRAGE]


The two months of summer is fantastic…   :^)


Actually, quality of life here in Minnesota is quite good; good schools, clean 
air and water, good recreational and cultural
activities, good pro football (okay, maybe not…); and the fresh water of Lake 
Superior means our boats last quite a long time.


We pay for it all in the winter…



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Apr 9, 2013, at 9:19 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:


  Fred,


  You live there because ?

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

[Rick Brass]

I did a lot of research about refrigeration, and weighed a lot of
alternatives before I selected and installed mine. One of my considerations
was low power consumption for use while cruising full time.

There are a lot of alternatives out there. Most use the same model of
Danfoss compressor, and the power consumption seems to be in about the same
range for the majority of systems. A water cooled system seems to have a
slight advantage over the air cooled systems when the ambient temperature
gets up in the summer. But at the cost of increased plumbing, complexity,
and maintenance. Of the water cooled systems, I was drawn to the option of a
"keel cooler" - a bronze plate on the outside of the hull that serves as a
heat exchanger so you are not pumping raw water for cooling - and one setup
that puts a heat exchanger into your sink drain hose just above the through
hull fitting.

One really neat system I was sold on installing, but did not use, was called
a TropiCool 40. It used carbon dioxide for a refrigerant, and had to be
installed such that the condensed coolant was gravity fed from the
compressor to the evaporator inside the ice box. And a part of the power for
the compressor was provide by a sort of Sterling exothermic engine that used
the heat from the gas leaving the evaporator to generate power for the
compressor. Neat system with very low power consumption. Complex technology,
but packaged to be a plug and play installation once you set up the proper
geometry between the evaporator and compressor. 

The key to a good installation, as Wally pointed out, is to insulate your
existing icebox. That can be a pain, but is the only real way to get the
power consumption to be reasonable and the beer cold. I have between 1 and 4
inches of foam around my ice box, depending on the available space. More on
the open side of the box nearest the engine, and canned foam filling the
void between the icebox and hull. I've thought about adding something like a
space blanket to the surface facing the engine space to add to the
insulation value.

I ended up getting a Norcold icebox conversion kit. Norcold is most familiar
for making small refrigerators for RVs and dorm rooms. They make a kit for
installation in boat iceboxes that has an air cooled and automatically
converts from 12v to 120v when you plug into shore power. The
compressor/condenser is about 10x14x20, and is installed in the starboard
lazarette just aft of my icebox. My installation uses the cowl vents left
over from the days when my boat had an A4 to provide additional cooling air
to the condenser coils. The Norcold has no freezer capability, but will keep
the ice box at about 40 degrees below outside air temp. And BTW, one of the
prime reasons for getting the Norcold system - in addition to a
recommendation from a cruiser I knew - was that the cost of the kit was
under $500 at the time I bought it.

Hope this helps.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-

On Apr 8, 2013, at 2:05 PM, Raymond Macklin  wrote:

> I bought a C&C 33 1985 last year and the boat did not come with the 
> refrigeration equipment.  I would like to get it going to avoid 
> another summer of carrying the cooler around.  I have the icebox but 
> nothing else.  Any help on what I should be getting and where to get 
> it from.  Thanks Ray - Libertyville,IL 



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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Stevan Plavsa]

I'll give an example of how I use the meter and why.

When looking over a CS 27 I was interested in I got high readings around
the port side chainplates. I figured it was either water in the core or the
meter was reading the metal from the chainplates themselves or maybe the
bulkhead. I checked the other side and it was ... dry. No reading.
So, there are ways using some reasoning to get a fairly accurate idea of
how wet a deck is. The thing is, that while false positives are possible,
false negatives aren't really a concern. There is either a low reading, or
a high reading. You don't get low readings if there is water (or metal)
under what you have the meter on. You're not likely to reach the conclusion
that a deck is dry when it is in fact soaked.

At the end of the day I recommend using a moisture meter to save yourself
the cost of hiring a surveyor to tell you that the core is wet. I would
walk away from any boat with a deck that needed re-coring, that's not a job
I'm interested in and there are dry boats to be had on the market. The
moisture meter isn't there to replace a surveyor, it's just there to save
you the expense of paying some guy $500 to tell you what you could have
figured out yourself with a $200 investment. Again, that $200 investment
can be used to rule out or short list other boats PRIOR to paying for a
survey. I would hate to hire a surveyor to have him come and take my $500
and then tell me "yup, the core is saturated". I'de walk away from that
boat and the $500. Seems that $200 is good insurance for that scenario. Why
guess?

The surveyor I mentioned earlier that did my boat is one of only two SAMs
accredited surveyors in this area (or so I was told by a third party) and
he seemed VERY thorough. However, overall I'm not entirely sold on the
whole experience and I'll add that my experience with the house surveyor
that I hired when purchasing my house was the same. Underwhelming.

Steve C&C 32
Toronto




On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:24 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:

> That sounds reasonable. Just hard to say whether any individual spot is
> water or simply a void. Not trying to be difficult; I simply think we
> should be cautious about measurements of the unseen.
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-04-09, at 11:18, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
> Rich,
> The jump in reading indicated it was an area of concern.  He tapped the
> entire boat.  If the tapping and the meter correlated, he felt it was an
> issue.  Fortunately, they were few and small.  In the case of a high
> reading at the babystay, the issue was caused by a missing bolt.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:12 AM, Knowles Rich  wrote:
>
>> To my point. Did the jump mean excessive/any water under the surface or
>> simply an irregularity in the thickness or nature of the fiberglass or the
>> presence of plywood etc. beneath the surface???
>>
>> I guess what I'm trying to note is that I believe there is plenty of
>> opportunity to make erroneous judgements of what is going on under the
>> fibreglass sukin. I know that there are a couple of "hollow" sounding spots
>> on my boat's deck which have been there for the 16 years I have owned her
>> with no evident cause for alarm.
>>
>> Rich Knowles
>> Indigo. LF38
>> Halifax
>>
>> On 2013-04-09, at 10:45, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>>
>> > My surveyor used a Skipper moisture meter.  It had an analog gauge.  If
>> it jumped, it indicated a potential problem.
>> >
>> > Joel
>> > 35/3
>> > The Office
>> > Annapolis
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
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>
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Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

[Stevan Plavsa]

At my club we have a tremendous problem with spiders. I'm on a mooring and
the boat is COVERED in them. I looked at the binnacle cover kit from
sailrite and while it looks like a good solution to keeping the wheel in
nice shape it will most certainly become a favourite refuge for the
spiders. As it is the wheel and pedestal is covered in cobwebs every time I
visit the boat, I'm not thrilled about the idea of having to rustle them
out of the cover before putting it in the cabin for a sail every time.
It'll be covered in cobwebs and spider shit in no time.
Now, a wheel cover might work better than an entire binnacle cover but even
then, I just figured that some kind of UV treatment or something (?) would
be simplest.

Anyone else have a spider problem? I'm talking hundreds of them, every time
I visit the boat. You can squish them because they leave big black stains
that are near impossible to clean. You can't leave them alone because they
will make a mess of your deck by pooping everywhere. If you don't have a
spider problem you don't know what the black shit of forever is, so
consider yourself lucky.

Steve C&C 32
Toronto



On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:38 AM, Tim Sippel wrote:

> I have covered a bunch of wheels  from a doeskin hide I bought (not a kit
> , cut and punched by hand) the wheel is left out all summer and still looks
> good after (yikes 7 years) . You might want to wet the wheel and see if the
> dye runs so you don’t get a stain in the cockpit.
>
> Of course a binnacle/wheel cover is always a good option. 
>
> ** **
>
> Tim 
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Coleman
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:29 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?
>
> ** **
>
> I found what works best is having a little cover made for it all. Takes
> care of wear and tear on the leather, chartplotter, mic, etc.
>
> ** **
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 [image: animated_favicon1]
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
> Plavsa
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:18 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?
>
> ** **
>
> Hi All.
>
> ** **
>
> My girlfriend and I sewed on a leather wheel cover from a kit a few weeks
> ago ... well, she did most of the work. The wheel is nice and it's been
> sitting in the house waiting for spring. Before mounting the wheel on the
> boat I wanted to know if there was anything we should do to treat the
> leather before putting it out in the elements? Some kind of leather
> treatment? 
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
> C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be
> subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived.
> If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review,
> dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content
> is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored
> as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect
> our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted
> any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please
> notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any
> computer or any storage medium without printing a copy.
>
> Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et
> peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit
> connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son
> représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel
> en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous
> les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements
> applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les
> courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les
> risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce
> moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser
> immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

[Edd Schillay]

No spider problem at my club. Perhaps you should consider charging them dues?



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website




On Apr 9, 2013, at 11:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> At my club we have a tremendous problem with spiders. I'm on a mooring and 
> the boat is COVERED in them. I looked at the binnacle cover kit from sailrite 
> and while it looks like a good solution to keeping the wheel in nice shape it 
> will most certainly become a favourite refuge for the spiders. As it is the 
> wheel and pedestal is covered in cobwebs every time I visit the boat, I'm not 
> thrilled about the idea of having to rustle them out of the cover before 
> putting it in the cabin for a sail every time. It'll be covered in cobwebs 
> and spider shit in no time. 
> Now, a wheel cover might work better than an entire binnacle cover but even 
> then, I just figured that some kind of UV treatment or something (?) would be 
> simplest. 
> 
> Anyone else have a spider problem? I'm talking hundreds of them, every time I 
> visit the boat. You can squish them because they leave big black stains that 
> are near impossible to clean. You can't leave them alone because they will 
> make a mess of your deck by pooping everywhere. If you don't have a spider 
> problem you don't know what the black shit of forever is, so consider 
> yourself lucky.
> 
> Steve C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:38 AM, Tim Sippel  wrote:
> I have covered a bunch of wheels  from a doeskin hide I bought (not a kit , 
> cut and punched by hand) the wheel is left out all summer and still looks 
> good after (yikes 7 years) . You might want to wet the wheel and see if the 
> dye runs so you don’t get a stain in the cockpit.
> 
> Of course a binnacle/wheel cover is always a good option.
> 
>  
> 
> Tim
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> : CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman
> Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:29 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?
> 
>  
> 
> I found what works best is having a little cover made for it all. Takes care 
> of wear and tear on the leather, chartplotter, mic, etc.
> 
>  
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> C&C 39 
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
> Plavsa
> Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:18 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?
> 
>  
> 
> Hi All.
> 
>  
> 
> My girlfriend and I sewed on a leather wheel cover from a kit a few weeks ago 
> ... well, she did most of the work. The wheel is nice and it's been sitting 
> in the house waiting for spring. Before mounting the wheel on the boat I 
> wanted to know if there was anything we should do to treat the leather before 
> putting it out in the elements? Some kind of leather treatment? 
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve
> 
> C&C 32
> 
> Toronto
> 
> 
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject 
> to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are 
> not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, 
> distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly 
> prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by 
> applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. 
> E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you 
> communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us 
> immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or 
> any storage medium without printing a copy.
> 
> Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et 
> peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit 
> connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son 
> représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en 
> tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous les 
> messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements applicables et 
> les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les courriels ne sont pas 
> sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les risques qui y sont liés 
> si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu 
> ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser immédiatement et supprimer ce 
> courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces jointes) de tout ordinateur ou support 
> de données sans en imprimer une copie.
> 
> 
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
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Stus-List Boats for sail - Craigslist

[Joel Aronson]

40' C&C Crusader Sloop
Sailboat
 $15000 (Irvington, VA) pic map  boats
- by owner 


38' C&C Sailboat  1977
$3 (South River) pic boats - by owner


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

[Bill Coleman]

I don't recall any major spiders under the Binnacle cover or  having to
clean spiderwebs there, I think they like to make them where the bugs fly,
and they don't under there.  Spraying the dock and rails with spider spray
does help, but I don't usually think of it.  My neighbor does.

But, Binnacle and Sail cover, I shake vigorously over the side to shake off
as many as I can.  I don't know what is worse, those or the Purple martins
that poop all over.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

 

At my club we have a tremendous problem with spiders. I'm on a mooring and
the boat is COVERED in them. I looked at the binnacle cover kit from
sailrite and while it looks like a good solution to keeping the wheel in
nice shape it will most certainly become a favourite refuge for the spiders.
As it is the wheel and pedestal is covered in cobwebs every time I visit the
boat, I'm not thrilled about the idea of having to rustle them out of the
cover before putting it in the cabin for a sail every time. It'll be covered
in cobwebs and spider shit in no time. 

Now, a wheel cover might work better than an entire binnacle cover but even
then, I just figured that some kind of UV treatment or something (?) would
be simplest. 

 

Anyone else have a spider problem? I'm talking hundreds of them, every time
I visit the boat. You can squish them because they leave big black stains
that are near impossible to clean. You can't leave them alone because they
will make a mess of your deck by pooping everywhere. If you don't have a
spider problem you don't know what the black shit of forever is, so consider
yourself lucky.

 

Steve C&C 32

Toronto

 

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Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

[Tim Sippel]

I have seen a few that are big enough to hold a pen and write a check


 

Tim Sippel 
GSM -  TADIG Group 
Rogers  Wireless (CANRW) 
Microcell (CANMC) 
( (647) 747-7381 
+ Email:   
 Toronto   

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

 

No spider problem at my club. Perhaps you should consider charging them
dues?



  

  All the best,

 

  Edd

 

 

  Edd M. Schillay

  Starship Enterprise

  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

  City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
 

 

 

 

 

On Apr 9, 2013, at 11:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa 
wrote:





At my club we have a tremendous problem with spiders. I'm on a mooring
and the boat is COVERED in them. I looked at the binnacle cover kit from
sailrite and while it looks like a good solution to keeping the wheel in
nice shape it will most certainly become a favourite refuge for the
spiders. As it is the wheel and pedestal is covered in cobwebs every
time I visit the boat, I'm not thrilled about the idea of having to
rustle them out of the cover before putting it in the cabin for a sail
every time. It'll be covered in cobwebs and spider shit in no time. 

Now, a wheel cover might work better than an entire binnacle cover but
even then, I just figured that some kind of UV treatment or something
(?) would be simplest. 

 

Anyone else have a spider problem? I'm talking hundreds of them, every
time I visit the boat. You can squish them because they leave big black
stains that are near impossible to clean. You can't leave them alone
because they will make a mess of your deck by pooping everywhere. If you
don't have a spider problem you don't know what the black shit of
forever is, so consider yourself lucky.

 

Steve C&C 32

Toronto


This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to 
copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not 
the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or 
copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be 
unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by applicable law and 
regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure 
and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you communicate with us by 
e-mail. If received in error, please notify us immediately and delete the 
e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or any storage medium without 
printing a copy.

Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et peut 
faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit connexe 
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étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en tout ou en partie, 
est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous les messages peuvent être 
surveillés, selon les lois et règlements applicables et les politiques de 
protection de notre entreprise. Les courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous 
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de communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, 
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Re: Stus-List Boats for sail - Craigslist

[Frederick G Street]

That 40 with the centerboard would make a great Bahamas boat...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 9, 2013, at 10:46 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> 40' C&C Crusader Sloop Sailboat $15000 (Irvington, VA) pic map boats - by 
> owner 
> 
> 
> 38' C&C Sailboat 1977 $3 (South River) pic boats - by owner 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Boats for sail - Craigslist

[Stevan Plavsa]

Yes it would. How much does dockage etc cost in the Bahamas?


On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 11:51 AM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> That 40 with the centerboard would make a great Bahamas boat...
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 9, 2013, at 10:46 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
> 40' C&C Crusader Sloop 
> Sailboat
>  $15000 (Irvington, VA) pic map  boats
> - by owner 
>
>
> 38' C&C Sailboat 
>  1977 $3 (South River) pic boats - by 
> owner
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Boats for sail - Craigslist

[Frederick G Street]

I've spent more time anchored out there than at a dock, except in Bimini.  It 
was fairly expensive there; about $75/night at the Big Game Club for a Tartan 
37 as I recall (but it's been a few years).

Ideally, you could stage at someplace like Marsh Harbour and keep the boat in 
the water on a ball for the non-hurricane season; then dry store there for the 
summer.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 9, 2013, at 10:53 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> Yes it would. How much does dockage etc cost in the Bahamas?
> 
> 
> On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 11:51 AM, Frederick G Street  
> wrote:
> That 40 with the centerboard would make a great Bahamas boat...

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

[Prime Interest]

I occasionally read through the forums ( archives ) of the attached 

http://www.kollmann-marine.com/

http://www.kollmann-marine.com/Refrigeration/

generally informative and interesting reading the submitters questions and
problem solving by the authors extensive technical knowledge. He has
particular biases to certain setups but seems to be well thought out.



Ed

Prime Interest
1982 C&C 38 Landfall
Toronto, Canada



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

I did a lot of research about refrigeration, and weighed a lot of
alternatives before I selected and installed mine. One of my considerations
was low power consumption for use while cruising full time.

There are a lot of alternatives out there. Most use the same model of
Danfoss compressor, and the power consumption seems to be in about the same
range for the majority of systems. A water cooled system seems to have a
slight advantage over the air cooled systems when the ambient temperature
gets up in the summer. But at the cost of increased plumbing, complexity,
and maintenance. Of the water cooled systems, I was drawn to the option of a
"keel cooler" - a bronze plate on the outside of the hull that serves as a
heat exchanger so you are not pumping raw water for cooling - and one setup
that puts a heat exchanger into your sink drain hose just above the through
hull fitting.

One really neat system I was sold on installing, but did not use, was called
a TropiCool 40. It used carbon dioxide for a refrigerant, and had to be
installed such that the condensed coolant was gravity fed from the
compressor to the evaporator inside the ice box. And a part of the power for
the compressor was provide by a sort of Sterling exothermic engine that used
the heat from the gas leaving the evaporator to generate power for the
compressor. Neat system with very low power consumption. Complex technology,
but packaged to be a plug and play installation once you set up the proper
geometry between the evaporator and compressor. 

The key to a good installation, as Wally pointed out, is to insulate your
existing icebox. That can be a pain, but is the only real way to get the
power consumption to be reasonable and the beer cold. I have between 1 and 4
inches of foam around my ice box, depending on the available space. More on
the open side of the box nearest the engine, and canned foam filling the
void between the icebox and hull. I've thought about adding something like a
space blanket to the surface facing the engine space to add to the
insulation value.

I ended up getting a Norcold icebox conversion kit. Norcold is most familiar
for making small refrigerators for RVs and dorm rooms. They make a kit for
installation in boat iceboxes that has an air cooled and automatically
converts from 12v to 120v when you plug into shore power. The
compressor/condenser is about 10x14x20, and is installed in the starboard
lazarette just aft of my icebox. My installation uses the cowl vents left
over from the days when my boat had an A4 to provide additional cooling air
to the condenser coils. The Norcold has no freezer capability, but will keep
the ice box at about 40 degrees below outside air temp. And BTW, one of the
prime reasons for getting the Norcold system - in addition to a
recommendation from a cruiser I knew - was that the cost of the kit was
under $500 at the time I bought it.

Hope this helps.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-

On Apr 8, 2013, at 2:05 PM, Raymond Macklin  wrote:

> I bought a C&C 33 1985 last year and the boat did not come with the 
> refrigeration equipment.  I would like to get it going to avoid 
> another summer of carrying the cooler around.  I have the icebox but 
> nothing else.  Any help on what I should be getting and where to get 
> it from.  Thanks Ray - Libertyville,IL



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Re: Stus-List MIRAGE

[Harry Hallgring]

Fred,
I concur with the Admiral...but nothing but ponds and creeks around here other 
than the ocean!!

Harry

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 9, 2013, at 10:11 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

> The admiral, upon seeing the photos, says,
> 
> "He's going to put that in saltwater?  What a shame for the new paint…"   :^)
> 
> She looks great, Harry -- a very classy boat for a classy homeport.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> [btw, we're under a winter storm warning, and forecast for six to eight 
> inches of snow over the next couple of days…happy spring!]
> 
> On Apr 8, 2013, at 8:22 PM, Chuck S  wrote:
> 
>> Damn!  You better buy a new suit of clothes for when you go sailing.  You 
>> gotta look good to just be near it.  
>> Nice job.  Jealous.  Keep pics coming.
> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)

[Paul Baker]

Mine is a '79.
Hanked on sails, vang, shin-smasher traveller, long genoa tracks, cunningham, 
outhaul.  Not got round to a backstay adjuster (yet), and no flying sails 
(yet).  Don't race her on account of the cost of racing sails, except of course 
when anyone happens to be sailing in the same direction as me, in which case 
somehow I always seem to end up racing them, even if they don't know it.
Paul.

- Original Message -
From: "Ed Dooley" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 8:09:10 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)


Mine is a 1983, but no racing, except when a bunch of us cruisers get together 
over across Lake Champlain on the New York side at 
Split Rock we sometimes try to prove our cruiser is faster getting there or 
back. 
Hanked on foresails, no spinnaker, adjustable split backstay (which seems 
overkill for such a small mainsail), boom vang, shin ripping traveler in the 
cockpit. 
Ed 

On 4/9/13 10:38 AM, "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
 wrote: 



Mine is 1978 Niagara model with outboard motor, jiffy reefing, inboard 
headsail fairlead tracks, Cunningham, split adjustable backstay, midboom 
sheeting with traveler, boom vang, 4:1 outhaul, spinnaker stuff, everything 
lead back to the cockpit and barber haulers.  It's all kind of awkward for 
me because everything is in a different place compared to my previous boat. 
Our Thursday night races do not allow spinnakers. 

Dwight I'm glad to know yours did well off the wind.  I an pretty sure if I 
can improve my sheeting angles off wind I will do better. 

Thanks! 
Orren 

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Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

[Fred Hazzard]

Bill,

 

I installed them over a year ago.  I bought them from local supplier, who I
believe gets them from a Canadian producer.  I'll try to find out more and
let you know.

 

Fred Hazzard 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 6:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

 

Fred, 

Do you have a link to the LED's you used?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Hazzard
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

 

I put LED strips in place of fluorescents that were on the ceiling behind
defusers.  I control them with wireless controllers that dim and turn them
on and off.   The LED's are very bright and being able to dim them improves
the cabin ambiance a lot. 

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Collins
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 5:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

 

Switches.  I was going to add a dimmer, but have changed my mind.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-04-05 10:00 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:

Are people adding in-line switches to the LED strips or just switching them
at the breaker? 

 

Joel

35/3

The Office 

Annapolis

 

On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Michael Brown  wrote:

The white 3528 strips work well, good light output and low power.
I have them glued and tie wrapped to a strip of high density foam
board ( about 1/2" wide and 1/4" thick ) that is then screwed in
place. The plastic cover on the strip proved a bit difficult to glue.

Most of the strips have a power rating per meter, the ones I have
are < 4.8 Watts / meter. They are also rated for 12V, but your boat
may have 13.2 to 14.2 volts depending on you charging system. The
LED are fairly sensitive to voltage and could be over driven.

Add a constant current driver, a LED dimmer (also available on eBay)
or a resistor in series. If you expect the highest voltage you will
have on the boat will be 14.5v, then the resistor will need to drop
2.5v at rated current.

The strips I used where a bit under 2/3 of a meter, used about 3.2W
at 12v so required 0.250 amps of current.

To drop 2.5v at 0.250 amps you need a 10 ohm resistor
 ( Resistance in ohms = Volts / Amps ).
The resistor will need to be rated for 0.625 watts so I used a
1 watt resistor ( about $0.20 from Sayal ).
 ( Power in Watts  = Amps squared * Resistance )

Adding the resistor will dim the LEDs slightly at 12V.

For longer strips where the power to the resistor > 1 watt or
were you want the best lighting power a constant current source
is much better. Simple ones are only four components and cost
less than $10 in parts. The dimmers from China are only $8!

http://madscientisthut.com/wordpress/tag/led-current-control/


Mike
C&C 30
Windburn




> Hi All.
>
> I just volunteered my boat for a test case using these LED strip lights
that are available on ebay cheap out of china. I haven't seen them used on
boats before. They are marketed as being waterproof. There are a few
variations on the LED types with the two most common being "SMD 5050" and
"SMD 3528". The 5050 have triple LEDs so they can be made into any colour,
they are also brighter because of the triple LED and consume more. The 3528,
which I ordered, are smaller, single cell LEDs and consume less (why I chose
them). Both varieties come in 5 meter lengths for about $20. The 3528 strip
that I ordered has 600 LEDs on it! They can be cut to size. I purchased
these to provide accent lighting in the cabin. They should be bright enough
to be used as a primary light source for hanging out but not for reading
(not the way I'm installing them, anyway).
>
> For the accent lighting I'll be installing them behind the teak trim on
both sides of the boat just under the cabinets on either side. They should
be hidden from view in there and I will likely aim them UP into that void
rather than down, I'm a big fan of diffused lighting. I ordered the "natural
white 4500k" LEDs. What I'm hoping to accomplish is a nice subdued ambient
light in the cabin. I might even try a dimmer.
>
> If anyone is interested in this I can update once received and installed.
> Check them out:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
 &item=310638125425&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160
>
> For $20 I figure it's worth the gamble. They are 12V DC so should be a
snap to install.
> I've got other ideas too. I'll see how this first strip works out and I'm
curious to see what the real world power consumption is.
>
> Steve
> C&C 32
> Toronto

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Pierre Tremblay]

Just back from Canadian Tire with a Mastercraft pinless moisture meter.
 
In soft wood mode, top of my desk (presswood modular furniture type) say 15%, 
and it can see my hand (jump to 18%) under the desk top (1 inch thick). On my 
hand, it goes off the scale exactly as the CT33 of my surveyor was doing.
 
Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche, #54988
C&C38-3 WK
 

>
>On 2013-04-09, at 9:47, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>
>
>I never had any trouble using mine, what people deem so difficult about using 
>them I'm not sure. The mastercraft one is a quarter of the cost, go ahead and 
>try it and report back. I'de be curious to see how it measures up against the 
>CT33.
>
>
>
>
>
>On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
>
> 
>>Don 
>>  
>>I asked on the Canadian Tire website a similar question about 
that product a few months ago.  They finally answered and say it is similar 
to CT33 because it ises a similar inductance method.  At half price at $45 
I think it is worth a try anyway. 
>>  
>>You should also be aware that these meters are not all that 
easy to use.  I borrowed Graham's Electrophysics meter (CT100 I believe) 
and within 10 minutes realized I had no clue how to use it 
properly. 
>>  
>>Mike 
>>  
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don 
Harben
>>Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:31 PM
>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless 
Moisture Detector
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Hi folks,
>> 
>>This has been a very useful discussion 
for me but especially for my friend currently looking at boats. 
  
>>
>> 
>>Does anybody have comments or 
experience on this Pinless Moisture Detector?  
>>
>>http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/MeasuringTools/SpecialtyMeasuring/PRD~0574572P/Mastercraft+Pinless+Moisture+Detector.jsp?locale=en
>> 
>>
>> 
>>   
>> 
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

[Knowles Rich]

Sounds like you have a rotten core...

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-09, at 14:35, Pierre Tremblay  wrote:

Just back from Canadian Tire with a Mastercraft pinless moisture meter.
 
In soft wood mode, top of my desk (presswood modular furniture type) say 15%, 
and it can see my hand (jump to 18%) under the desk top (1 inch thick). On my 
hand, it goes off the scale exactly as the CT33 of my surveyor was doing.
 
Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche, #54988
C&C38-3 WK
 
On 2013-04-09, at 9:47, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

I never had any trouble using mine, what people deem so difficult about using 
them I'm not sure. The mastercraft one is a quarter of the cost, go ahead and 
try it and report back. I'de be curious to see how it measures up against the 
CT33.



On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
Don
 
I asked on the Canadian Tire website a similar question about that product a 
few months ago.  They finally answered and say it is similar to CT33 because it 
ises a similar inductance method.  At half price at $45 I think it is worth a 
try anyway.
 
You should also be aware that these meters are not all that easy to use.  I 
borrowed Graham's Electrophysics meter (CT100 I believe) and within 10 minutes 
realized I had no clue how to use it properly.
 
Mike
 
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Harben
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

  Hi folks,
This has been a very useful discussion for me but especially for my friend 
currently looking at boats.  

Does anybody have comments or experience on this Pinless Moisture Detector?
 
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/MeasuringTools/SpecialtyMeasuring/PRD~0574572P/Mastercraft+Pinless+Moisture+Detector.jsp?locale=en

   
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Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

[Jeffrey Nelson]

Pretty sure Graham used these:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,70322&p=70323


On 04/09/13, Bill Coleman   wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
>  
> 
> 
>  
>  
> Fred, 
>  
> Do you have a link to the LED’s you used?
>  
>  
>   
> Bill Coleman
>  
> C&C 39 
>  
>  
>  
>
> From: CnC-List
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:46 AM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> I put LED strips in place of fluorescents that were on the
> ceiling behind defusers. I control them with wireless controllers that
> dim and turn them on and off. The LED’s are very bright and
> being able to dim them improves the cabin ambiance a lot. 
>  
>  
>  
> Fred Hazzard
>  
> S/V Fury
>  
> C&C 44
>  
> Portland, Or
>  
>  
>
> From: CnC-List
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Collins
> 
> Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 5:03 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting
>  
>  
>  
>  
>   
> Switches. I was going to
> add a dimmer, but have changed my mind.
>  
> Graham Collins
> 
> Secret Plans
> 
> C&C 35-III #11
>  
> On 2013-04-05 10:00 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>  
>  
> >   
> > Are people adding in-line switches to the LED strips or just
> > switching them at the breaker? 
> >   
> >  
> >  
> >   
> > Joel
> >  
> >   
> > 35/3
> >  
> >   
> > The Office 
> >  
> >   
> > Annapolis
> >  
> >  
> >   
> >  
> >   
> > On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Michael Brown  wrote:
> >  
> > The white 3528 strips work well, good light output and low
> > power.
> > 
> > I have them glued and tie wrapped to a strip of high density foam
> > 
> > board ( about 1/2" wide and 1/4" thick ) that is then screwed in
> > 
> > place. The plastic cover on the strip proved a bit difficult to glue.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Most of the strips have a power rating per meter, the ones I have
> > 
> > are < 4.8 Watts / meter. They are also rated for 12V, but your boat
> > 
> > may have 13.2 to 14.2 volts depending on you charging system. The
> > 
> > LED are fairly sensitive to voltage and could be over driven.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Add a constant current driver, a LED dimmer (also available on eBay)
> > 
> > or a resistor in series. If you expect the highest voltage you will
> > 
> > have on the boat will be 14.5v, then the resistor will need to drop
> > 
> > 2.5v at rated current.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > The strips I used where a bit under 2/3 of a meter, used about 3.2W
> > 
> > at 12v so required 0.250 amps of current.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To drop 2.5v at 0.250 amps you need a 10 ohm resistor
> >  ( Resistance in ohms = Volts / Amps ).
> > 
> > The resistor will need to be rated for 0.625 watts so I used a
> > 
> > 1 watt resistor ( about $0.20 from Sayal ).
> >  ( Power in Watts = Amps squared * Resistance )
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Adding the resistor will dim the LEDs slightly at 12V.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > For longer strips where the power to the resistor > 1 watt or
> > 
> > were you want the best lighting power a constant current source
> > 
> > is much better. Simple ones are only four components and cost
> > 
> > less than $10 in parts. The dimmers from China are only $8!
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > http://madscientisthut.com/wordpress/tag/led-current-control/
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > C&C 30
> > 
> > Windburn
> >   
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > Hi All.
> > 
> > >
> > 
> > > I just volunteered my boat for a test case using these LED strip lights
> > that are available on ebay cheap out of china. I haven't seen them used on
> > boats before. They are marketed as being waterproof. There are a few 
> > variations
> > on the LED types with the two most common being "SMD 5050" and
> > "SMD 3528". The 5050 have triple LEDs so they can be made into any
> > colour, they are also brighter because of the triple LED and consume more. 
> > The
> > 3528, which I ordered, are smaller, single cell LEDs and consume less (why I
> > chose them). Both varieties come in 5 meter lengths for about $20. The 3528
> > strip that I ordered has 600 LEDs on it! They can be cut to size. I 
> > purchased
> > these to provide accent lighting in the cabin. They should be bright enough 
> > to
> > be used as a primary light source for hanging out but not for reading (not 
> > the
> > way I'm installing them, anyway).
> > 
> > >
> > 
> > > For the accent lighting I'll be installing them behind the teak trim on
> > both sides of the boat just under the cabinets on either side. They should 
> > be
> > hidden from view in there and I will likely aim them UP into that void 
> > rather
> > than down, I'm a big fan of diffused lighting. I ordered the "natural
> > white 4500k" LEDs. What I'm hoping to accomplish is a nice subdued ambient
> > light in the cabin. I might even try a dimmer.
> > 
> > >
> > 
> > > If anyone is interested in this I can update once received and insta

Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

[Fred Hazzard]

Bill,  

 

Try this site. ledwholesalers.com

 

I bought 300 lights for about $15.  They are a nice warm light, but not a
bright as the earlier ones I used in for the overhead lights in the cabin.  

Fred Hazzard

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 6:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

 

Fred, 

Do you have a link to the LED's you used?

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Hazzard
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

 

I put LED strips in place of fluorescents that were on the ceiling behind
defusers.  I control them with wireless controllers that dim and turn them
on and off.   The LED's are very bright and being able to dim them improves
the cabin ambiance a lot. 

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Collins
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 5:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

 

Switches.  I was going to add a dimmer, but have changed my mind.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-04-05 10:00 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:

Are people adding in-line switches to the LED strips or just switching them
at the breaker? 

 

Joel

35/3

The Office 

Annapolis

 

On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Michael Brown  wrote:

The white 3528 strips work well, good light output and low power.
I have them glued and tie wrapped to a strip of high density foam
board ( about 1/2" wide and 1/4" thick ) that is then screwed in
place. The plastic cover on the strip proved a bit difficult to glue.

Most of the strips have a power rating per meter, the ones I have
are < 4.8 Watts / meter. They are also rated for 12V, but your boat
may have 13.2 to 14.2 volts depending on you charging system. The
LED are fairly sensitive to voltage and could be over driven.

Add a constant current driver, a LED dimmer (also available on eBay)
or a resistor in series. If you expect the highest voltage you will
have on the boat will be 14.5v, then the resistor will need to drop
2.5v at rated current.

The strips I used where a bit under 2/3 of a meter, used about 3.2W
at 12v so required 0.250 amps of current.

To drop 2.5v at 0.250 amps you need a 10 ohm resistor
 ( Resistance in ohms = Volts / Amps ).
The resistor will need to be rated for 0.625 watts so I used a
1 watt resistor ( about $0.20 from Sayal ).
 ( Power in Watts  = Amps squared * Resistance )

Adding the resistor will dim the LEDs slightly at 12V.

For longer strips where the power to the resistor > 1 watt or
were you want the best lighting power a constant current source
is much better. Simple ones are only four components and cost
less than $10 in parts. The dimmers from China are only $8!

http://madscientisthut.com/wordpress/tag/led-current-control/


Mike
C&C 30
Windburn




> Hi All.
>
> I just volunteered my boat for a test case using these LED strip lights
that are available on ebay cheap out of china. I haven't seen them used on
boats before. They are marketed as being waterproof. There are a few
variations on the LED types with the two most common being "SMD 5050" and
"SMD 3528". The 5050 have triple LEDs so they can be made into any colour,
they are also brighter because of the triple LED and consume more. The 3528,
which I ordered, are smaller, single cell LEDs and consume less (why I chose
them). Both varieties come in 5 meter lengths for about $20. The 3528 strip
that I ordered has 600 LEDs on it! They can be cut to size. I purchased
these to provide accent lighting in the cabin. They should be bright enough
to be used as a primary light source for hanging out but not for reading
(not the way I'm installing them, anyway).
>
> For the accent lighting I'll be installing them behind the teak trim on
both sides of the boat just under the cabinets on either side. They should
be hidden from view in there and I will likely aim them UP into that void
rather than down, I'm a big fan of diffused lighting. I ordered the "natural
white 4500k" LEDs. What I'm hoping to accomplish is a nice subdued ambient
light in the cabin. I might even try a dimmer.
>
> If anyone is interested in this I can update once received and installed.
> Check them out:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
 &item=310638125425&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160
>
> For $20 I figure it's worth the gamble. They are 12V DC so should be a
snap to install.
> I've got other ideas too. I'll see how this first strip works out and I'm
curious to see what the real world power consumption is.
>
> Steve
> C&C 32
> Toronto

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector - wet balsa

[Martin DeYoung]

Regarding percentage of moisture: Baltek Corp (sellers of balsa and other core 
materials) detailed the performance issues of "wet" core in their "Proper Core 
Installation" (2009) document.

In short, balsa starts out with around 10 to 12% moisture content.  The "Fiber 
Saturation Point" where the structure of the wood cannot retain any more water 
vapor is around 28%.

Baltek goes on to state that moisture levels 20% or below is not enough to 
condemn (or even justify stripping the skin and replacing the core) a boat 
owing to a reduction on shear or compression strength.

After spending the last winter repairing balsa core that had completely failed 
(rotted, black, stinky, delaminated from the skin) and in the process testing 
the bond strength if damp balsa (tan/brown colored, not stinky, "had to pry the 
glass skin off") to the 43 year old fiberglass (polyester resin) I agree with 
Baltek's claim.

The combo of a moisture meter and a light tapping around suspect areas should 
be used.  On Calypso the totally failed areas sounded so different than the 
still well bonded areas that I could easily find them, even with ear plugs in.

If one is not interested or capable in performing repairs in the usual C&C wet 
core areas, by all means use the highest standards regarding wet deck core.  If 
you are willing to DIY small repairs jobs it is messy but not difficult.  
Having a boat yard perform the repairs, especially if major, likely exceeds the 
value of the boat unless it hold special value to a determined owner.

This winter's projects on Calypso's deck cost the co-owner and I around $2,500 
in materials and the boat cover.  The cost in hours was fortunately not well 
documented but I estimate it around a combined 25 to 30 hours a week for 12 
weeks.  If we had our local boat yard perform the work I estimate it would have 
been $40,000 in materials, labor, and yard fees.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pierre 
Tremblay
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector

Just back from Canadian Tire with a Mastercraft pinless moisture meter.

In soft wood mode, top of my desk (presswood modular furniture type) say 15%, 
and it can see my hand (jump to 18%) under the desk top (1 inch thick). On my 
hand, it goes off the scale exactly as the CT33 of my surveyor was doing.

Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche, #54988
C&C38-3 WK

On 2013-04-09, at 9:47, Stevan Plavsa 
mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I never had any trouble using mine, what people deem so difficult about using 
them I'm not sure. The mastercraft one is a quarter of the cost, go ahead and 
try it and report back. I'de be curious to see how it measures up against the 
CT33.


On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Hoyt, Mike 
mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>> wrote:
Don

I asked on the Canadian Tire website a similar question about that product a 
few months ago.  They finally answered and say it is similar to CT33 because it 
ises a similar inductance method.  At half price at $45 I think it is worth a 
try anyway.

You should also be aware that these meters are not all that easy to use.  I 
borrowed Graham's Electrophysics meter (CT100 I believe) and within 10 minutes 
realized I had no clue how to use it properly.

Mike



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Don Harben
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector
  Hi folks,
This has been a very useful discussion for me but especially for my friend 
currently looking at boats.

Does anybody have comments or experience on this Pinless Moisture Detector?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/MeasuringTools/SpecialtyMeasuring/PRD~0574572P/Mastercraft+Pinless+Moisture+Detector.jsp?locale=en


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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)

[dwight veinot]

I know what you mean Paul, happens to me evry time there is a mat in sight

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Baker
Sent: April 9, 2013 1:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)

Mine is a '79.
Hanked on sails, vang, shin-smasher traveller, long genoa tracks,
cunningham, outhaul.  Not got round to a backstay adjuster (yet), and no
flying sails (yet).  Don't race her on account of the cost of racing sails,
except of course when anyone happens to be sailing in the same direction as
me, in which case somehow I always seem to end up racing them, even if they
don't know it.
Paul.

- Original Message -
From: "Ed Dooley" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 8:09:10 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)


Mine is a 1983, but no racing, except when a bunch of us cruisers get
together over across Lake Champlain on the New York side at 
Split Rock we sometimes try to prove our cruiser is faster getting there or
back. 
Hanked on foresails, no spinnaker, adjustable split backstay (which seems
overkill for such a small mainsail), boom vang, shin ripping traveler in the
cockpit. 
Ed 

On 4/9/13 10:38 AM, "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com"
 wrote: 



Mine is 1978 Niagara model with outboard motor, jiffy reefing, inboard 
headsail fairlead tracks, Cunningham, split adjustable backstay, midboom 
sheeting with traveler, boom vang, 4:1 outhaul, spinnaker stuff, everything 
lead back to the cockpit and barber haulers.  It's all kind of awkward for 
me because everything is in a different place compared to my previous boat. 
Our Thursday night races do not allow spinnakers. 

Dwight I'm glad to know yours did well off the wind.  I an pretty sure if I 
can improve my sheeting angles off wind I will do better. 

Thanks! 
Orren 

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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5734 - Release Date: 04/09/13


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Re: Stus-List Spider issues (was: Leather Wheel cover treatment?)

[Marek Dziedzic]

I think that spiders are worse, because the purple martins leave around the end 
of August and spider problems continues at least till mid-October.

If anyone has a reasonable solution for the spider problem, I would like to 
hear it.

On the other hand, I find that the best option is to sail the boat regularly. 
The spiders don't like to travel (apparently).

Marek (in Ottawa).___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)

[OldSteveH]

I logged many hours and miles over an 8 year span on my buddies C&C24, doing
PHRF round the marks, day races (40 to 60 miles) and long distance short
handed (for a little 24) racing (100+ miles) on Georgian Bay.

It had hanked sails, split backstay with adjuster, triangular mainsheet
system, a single radial reaching chute, 2 main reefs, a reefable #3, a 9.9
outboard

The best things about the boat - great light air performance, good pointing,
easy to get good trim and boat speed on all points of sail. There was a
comment about it being tough to handle on reaches, I don't recall that at
all. We were able to make the boat perform well on reaches. The reaching
chute was amazing - you could carry it right up to a close reach if you had
to. On a broad reach, approaching a leeward mark you could put up your
headsail, fly the chute almost around the mark, pop the guy pin as you round
and head to windward, never slowing down at all. We could gain so much on
competitors at leeward marks with that sail (but maybe just making up what
we lost by not flying a tri-radial sail . . . ) I think the 225 rating was
fair, we had to earn what we won . . .

The triangular mainsheet system was poor though. Oh to have had a decent
traveller system on that boat.

The boat did not perform as well in heavier air and seas. We had several
nemesis type competitors who could bear down and blow us away in heavier air
-  esp a Kirby 1/4 ton and a Thunderbird because of their fractional rigs.
There was also a C&C25 we could never seem to keep up with when it started
blowing. We usually did well against a Sirius 22, an Abbott 22, a Shark, a
Pearson 26, a Catalina 25. Probably the Kirby and the C&C25 were the ones
who were harder to beat.

Because we were bigger folks ourselves (plus crew - our wives were not tiny
either) weight distribution was always something to manage on that boat. I
did foredeck and was perhaps not the lightest person to be on the foredeck
but we made it work.

Thanks for the trip down memory lane!

Cheers,


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON




--

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2013 11:09:10 -0400
From: Ed Dooley 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 Club Racing (ok)
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Mine is a 1983, but no racing, except when a bunch of us cruisers get
together over across Lake Champlain on the New York side at Split Rock we
sometimes try to prove our cruiser is faster getting there or back.
Hanked on foresails, no spinnaker, adjustable split backstay (which seems
overkill for such a small mainsail), boom vang, shin ripping traveler in the
cockpit.
Ed

On 4/9/13 10:38 AM, "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com"
 wrote:

> Mine is 1978 Niagara model with outboard motor, jiffy reefing, inboard 
> headsail fairlead tracks, Cunningham, split adjustable backstay, 
> midboom sheeting with traveler, boom vang, 4:1 outhaul, spinnaker 
> stuff, everything lead back to the cockpit and barber haulers.  It's 
> all kind of awkward for me because everything is in a different place
compared to my previous boat.
> Our Thursday night races do not allow spinnakers.
> 
> Dwight I'm glad to know yours did well off the wind.  I an pretty sure 
> if I can improve my sheeting angles off wind I will do better.
> 
> Thanks!
> Orren

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Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

[Chuck S]

I had a small infestation of spiders.  Smaller than yours but anoying just the same.  Used a bug spray to kill em and vacuumed (wet/dry vac) up all their egg sacks and washed down the boat w soap and water.  Took a few treatments, but all gone, didn't come back.  I think each egg sack contains hundreds of tiny babies.  Got to get the eggs, maybe?  Gotta get the other owners to treat their boats too.ChuckResolute1990 C&C 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "Stevan Plavsa" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 11:38:37 AMSubject: Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?At my club we have a tremendous problem with spiders. I'm on a mooring and the boat is COVERED in them. I looked at the binnacle cover kit from sailrite and while it looks like a good solution to keeping the wheel in nice shape it will most certainly become a favourite refuge for the spiders. As it is the wheel and pedestal is covered in cobwebs every time I visit the boat, I'm not thrilled about the idea of having to rustle them out of the cover before putting it in the cabin for a sail every time. It'll be covered in cobwebs and spider shit in no time. 
Now, a wheel cover might work better than an entire binnacle cover but even then, I just figured that some kind of UV treatment or something (?) would be simplest. Anyone else have a spider problem? I'm talking hundreds of them, every time I visit the boat. You can squish them because they leave big black stains that are near impossible to clean. You can't leave them alone because they will make a mess of your deck by pooping everywhere. If you don't have a spider problem you don't know what the black shit of forever is, so consider yourself lucky.
Steve C&C 32TorontoOn Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 10:38 AM, Tim Sippel  wrote:
I have covered a bunch of wheels  from a doeskin hide I bought (not a kit , cut and punched by hand) the wheel is left out all summer and still looks good after (yikes 7 years) . You might want to wet the wheel and see if the dye runs so you don’t get a stain in the cockpit.
Of course a binnacle/wheel cover is always a good option. 
 
Tim  
  
  
: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:29 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?
 I found what works best is having a little cover made for it all. Takes care of wear and tear on the leather, chartplotter, mic, etc.
 Bill Coleman
C&C 39 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:18 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?
 Hi All. My girlfriend and I sewed on a leather wheel cover from a kit a few weeks ago ... well, she did most of the work. The wheel is nice and it's been sitting in the house waiting for spring. Before mounting the wheel on the boat I wanted to know if there was anything we should do to treat the leather before putting it out in the elements? Some kind of leather treatment? 
 Thanks,SteveC&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Well, They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same...  Except, now 
everything says TackTick instead of Raymarine...  If it wasn't for that, I'd 
have bet it was the same box of stuff... I don't what to say...  Why would they 
open the boxes...it does not make any sense to me... Is the fact that it now 
says TackTick mean anything...  It's just weird...  guess I'll stick with this 
and see if it works... Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:28:30 -0300


Danny Do you suspect this was maybe a display unit at some point?  Are they 
offering an "open box" discount like many big box retailers do? MikeFrom: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
 Okay,So the Tack tick/raymarine instruments just showed up Thursday night.  I 
opened the shipping box and pulled out the Tack Tick box and the first thing I 
notice is the factory seal is broken.  I go no further and write them the next 
morning and tell them about the seal.  Thay then say, "Mr. Haughey,Thank you 
for your email. There are times when our sales department willneed to open the 
boxes on some instruments to double check something such asif all the parts are 
present. I would say go ahead and inspect the item toensure all pieces are in 
the box and nothing looks amiss. There should beinstructions in the box which 
will tell you what should be included. Ifanything looks questionable, please 
send us a photo and we can check on ourend to see if that is how the unit 
should be or not. I do not think what youreceived is anything used, though, we 
likely just had to get into an unitbox to check on a part.Sincerely,..."

I really don't like this answer.  Why would they open a box the check if all 
the parts are there???  I call BS!

Anyway, I open the box this morning and there are scratches, the lens 
protectors are all bubbles underneath.  They just called me as I'm writing 
this...

He is telling me that they aren't packages well from the factory, they have 
never taken a return...blah blah blah...but, I'll get another one right out to 
you...

He have a much better argument if the factory seal wasn't broken...  The stuff 
is all rattling around in the box!  This is how ray marine packages a $2000 
system?

I guess Ill find out when I get the next one...

Here a few photos.

http://sdrv.ms/10FhaTl

http://sdrv.ms/10Fhh17

http://sdrv.ms/10FhpO8

http://sdrv.ms/10FhD7S

http://sdrv.ms/10FhGk6

It just all seems quite strange to me...

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 06:23:33 -0400

I got my stuff yesterday too!  I did not get a chance to open the boxes yet 
but, should do that this evening.

I had walled out of there without ordering a new hatch.  My bowmar hatch has a 
broken hinge and there are no replacement parts available.  So I ended up 
calling then like thursday, after the sale and they honored the sale price on a 
lewmar low profile model.  

I pulled the old hatch over the weekend and all the bolts were suck and some 
snapped.  I guess that the nw hatch was definitely in order.  I've now blown my 
budget for this year.

Danny
Lolita
1973 viking 33
Westport point, ma

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

 
- Reply message -
From: "Chuck S" 
To: "cnc-list CNC boat owners" , "cc-3436" 

Subject: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 9:07 pm

 
My bottom paint and accessories arrived today from Defender.  All good, all 
together.  Very cool

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ___
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Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

[Chuck S]

Danny, 
That's weird . Stick to your guns. Ask them to send you an unopened box. 
Tell em you've heard so many nice things about their customer service being 
second to none and you paid money for brand new instruments, not a display 
item. If that doesn't get you satisfaction, ask to speak to a supervisor. Can't 
hurt. I spent $900 this year and several thousand over the years, and I'll 
complain too, if it might help. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: djhaughey @ juno .com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 6:41:24 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery 


Well, 

They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same... Except, now everything 
says TackTick instead of Raymarine ... If it wasn't for that, I'd have bet it 
was the same box of stuff... 

I don't what to say... Why would they open the boxes...it does not make any 
sense to me... 

Is the fact that it now says TackTick mean anything... It's just weird... guess 
I'll stick with this and see if it works... 

Danny 


-- Original Message -- 
From: "Hoyt, Mike"  
To:  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery 
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:28:30 -0300 




Danny 

Do you suspect this was maybe a display unit at some point? Are they offering 
an "open box" discount like many big box retailers do? 

Mike 


From: CnC-List [ mailto :cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaughey 
@ juno .com 
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:43 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery 


Okay, 
So the Tack tick/ raymarine instruments just showed up Thursday night. I opened 
the shipping box and pulled out the Tack Tick box and the first thing I notice 
is the factory seal is broken. I go no further and write them the next morning 
and tell them about the seal. Thay then say, "Mr. Haughey ,

Thank you for your email. There are times when our sales department will
need to open the boxes on some instruments to double check something such as
if all the parts are present. I would say go ahead and inspect the item to
ensure all pieces are in the box and nothing looks amiss. There should be
instructions in the box which will tell you what should be included. If
anything looks questionable, please send us a photo and we can check on our
end to see if that is how the unit should be or not. I do not think what you
received is anything used, though, we likely just had to get into an unit
box to check on a part.

Sincerely,..." 

I really don't like this answer.  Why would they open a box the check if all 
the parts are there???  I call BS! 

Anyway, I open the box this morning and there are scratches, the lens 
protectors are all bubbles underneath.  They just called me as I'm writing 
this... 

He is telling me that they aren't packages well from the factory, they have 
never taken a return...blah blah blah...but, I'll get another one right out to 
you... 

He have a much better argument if the factory seal wasn't broken...  The stuff 
is all rattling around in the box!  This is how ray marine packages a $2000 
system? 

I guess Ill find out when I get the next one... 

Here a few photos. 

http :// sdrv .ms/10FhaTl 

http :// sdrv .ms/10Fhh17 

http :// sdrv .ms/10FhpO8 

http :// sdrv .ms/10FhD7S 

http :// sdrv .ms/10FhGk6 

I t just all seems quite strange to me... 

Danny 
Lolita 
1973 Viking 33 
Westport Point, MA 


-- Original Message -- 
From: " djhaughey @ juno .com" < djhaughey @ juno .com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery 
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 06:23:33 -0400 

I got my stuff yesterday too! I did not get a chance to open the boxes yet but, 
should do that this evening. 

I had walled out of there without ordering a new hatch. My bowmar hatch has a 
broken hinge and there are no replacement parts available. So I ended up 
calling then like thursday , after the sale and they honored the sale price on 
a lewmar low profile model. 

I pulled the old hatch over the weekend and all the bolts were suck and some 
snapped. I guess that the nw hatch was definitely in order. I've now blown my 
budget for this year. 

Danny 
Lolita 
1973 viking 33 
Westport point, ma 

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network 




- Reply message - 
From: "Chuck S" < cscheaffer @comcast.net> 
To: "cnc-list CNC boat owners" , "cc-3436"  
Subject: Stus-List Defender delivery 
Date: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 9:07 pm 




My bottom paint and accessories arrived today from Defender. All good, all 
together. Very cool 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
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Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

[djhaug...@juno.com]

I've spent loads there myself over the years! Hell I spent way too much over 
their spring sale, I don;t even want to think about it...LOL   I did speak a 
manager.  They keep insisting that the raymarine products don't come in sealed 
boxes so they can open them...I actually got  a voice-mail from the guy again 
to see what I thought of the new package they sent...I haven't called back, 
yet... Now I'm perplexed about the whole branding thing... DannyLolita1973 
Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Chuck S 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 23:00:08 + (UTC)


Danny,
That's weird.  Stick to your guns.  Ask them to send you an unopened box.  
Tell em you've heard so many nice things about their customer service being 
second to none and you paid money for brand new instruments, not a display 
item.  If that doesn't get you satisfaction, ask to speak to a supervisor.  
Can't hurt.  I spent $900 this year and several thousand over the years, and 
I'll complain too, if it might help.  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJFrom: djhaug...@juno.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 6:41:24 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

Well, They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same...  Except, now 
everything says TackTick instead of Raymarine...  If it wasn't for that, I'd 
have bet it was the same box of stuff... I don't what to say...  Why would they 
open the boxes...it does not make any sense to me... Is the fact that it now 
says TackTick mean anything...  It's just weird...  guess I'll stick with this 
and see if it works... Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:28:30 -0300

 
Danny Do you suspect this was maybe a display unit at some point?  Are they 
offering an "open box" discount like many big box retailers do? MikeFrom: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
 Okay,So the Tack tick/raymarine instruments just showed up Thursday night.  I 
opened the shipping box and pulled out the Tack Tick box and the first thing I 
notice is the factory seal is broken.  I go no further and write them the next 
morning and tell them about the seal.  Thay then say, "Mr. Haughey,Thank you 
for your email. There are times when our sales department willneed to open the 
boxes on some instruments to double check something such asif all the parts are 
present. I would say go ahead and inspect the item toensure all pieces are in 
the box and nothing looks amiss. There should beinstructions in the box which 
will tell you what should be included. Ifanything looks questionable, please 
send us a photo and we can check on ourend to see if that is how the unit 
should be or not. I do not think what youreceived is anything used, though, we 
likely just had to get into an unitbox to check on a part.Sincerely,..."

I really don't like this answer.  Why would they open a box the check if all 
the parts are there???  I call BS!

Anyway, I open the box this morning and there are scratches, the lens 
protectors are all bubbles underneath.  They just called me as I'm writing 
this...

He is telling me that they aren't packages well from the factory, they have 
never taken a return...blah blah blah...but, I'll get another one right out to 
you...

He have a much better argument if the factory seal wasn't broken...  The stuff 
is all rattling around in the box!  This is how ray marine packages a $2000 
system?

I guess Ill find out when I get the next one...

Here a few photos.

http://sdrv.ms/10FhaTl

http://sdrv.ms/10Fhh17

http://sdrv.ms/10FhpO8

http://sdrv.ms/10FhD7S

http://sdrv.ms/10FhGk6

It just all seems quite strange to me...

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 06:23:33 -0400

I got my stuff yesterday too!  I did not get a chance to open the boxes yet 
but, should do that this evening.

I had walled out of there without ordering a new hatch.  My bowmar hatch has a 
broken hinge and there are no replacement parts available.  So I ended up 
calling then like thursday, after the sale and they honored the sale price on a 
lewmar low profile model.  

I pulled the old hatch over the weekend and all the bolts were suck and some 
snapped.  I guess that the nw hatch was definitely in order.  I've now blown my 
budget for this year.

Danny
Lolita
1973 viking 33
Westport point, ma

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

 
- Reply message -
From: "Chuck S" 
To: "cnc-list CNC boat owners" , "cc-3436" 

Subject: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 9:07 pm

 
My bott

Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

[Knowles Rich]

I'm going to have a look at a couple if boxes myself tomorrow. I'm wondering if 
they are selling remanufactured units, which I've bought for years with no 
problems. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-09, at 20:00, Chuck S  wrote:

Danny,
That's weird.  Stick to your guns.  Ask them to send you an unopened box.  
Tell em you've heard so many nice things about their customer service being 
second to none and you paid money for brand new instruments, not a display 
item.  If that doesn't get you satisfaction, ask to speak to a supervisor.  
Can't hurt.  I spent $900 this year and several thousand over the years, and 
I'll complain too, if it might help.  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
From: djhaug...@juno.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 6:41:24 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

Well,
 
They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same...  Except, now everything 
says TackTick instead of Raymarine...  If it wasn't for that, I'd have bet it 
was the same box of stuff...
 
I don't what to say...  Why would they open the boxes...it does not make any 
sense to me...
 
Is the fact that it now says TackTick mean anything...  It's just weird...  
guess I'll stick with this and see if it works...
 
Danny


-- Original Message --
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:28:30 -0300

Danny
 
Do you suspect this was maybe a display unit at some point?  Are they offering 
an "open box" discount like many big box retailers do?
 
Mike
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
 
Okay,
So the Tack tick/raymarine instruments just showed up Thursday night.  I opened 
the shipping box and pulled out the Tack Tick box and the first thing I notice 
is the factory seal is broken.  I go no further and write them the next morning 
and tell them about the seal.  Thay then say, 
"Mr. Haughey,

Thank you for your email. There are times when our sales department will
need to open the boxes on some instruments to double check something such as
if all the parts are present. I would say go ahead and inspect the item to
ensure all pieces are in the box and nothing looks amiss. There should be
instructions in the box which will tell you what should be included. If
anything looks questionable, please send us a photo and we can check on our
end to see if that is how the unit should be or not. I do not think what you
received is anything used, though, we likely just had to get into an unit
box to check on a part.

Sincerely,..."

I really don't like this answer.  Why would they open a box the check if all 
the parts are there???  I call BS!

Anyway, I open the box this morning and there are scratches, the lens 
protectors are all bubbles underneath.  They just called me as I'm writing 
this...

He is telling me that they aren't packages well from the factory, they have 
never taken a return...blah blah blah...but, I'll get another one right out to 
you...

He have a much better argument if the factory seal wasn't broken...  The stuff 
is all rattling around in the box!  This is how ray marine packages a $2000 
system?

I guess Ill find out when I get the next one...

Here a few photos.

http://sdrv.ms/10FhaTl

http://sdrv.ms/10Fhh17

http://sdrv.ms/10FhpO8

http://sdrv.ms/10FhD7S

http://sdrv.ms/10FhGk6

It just all seems quite strange to me...

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA


-- Original Message --
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 06:23:33 -0400

I got my stuff yesterday too!  I did not get a chance to open the boxes yet 
but, should do that this evening.

I had walled out of there without ordering a new hatch.  My bowmar hatch has a 
broken hinge and there are no replacement parts available.  So I ended up 
calling then like thursday, after the sale and they honored the sale price on a 
lewmar low profile model.  

I pulled the old hatch over the weekend and all the bolts were suck and some 
snapped.  I guess that the nw hatch was definitely in order.  I've now blown my 
budget for this year.

Danny
Lolita
1973 viking 33
Westport point, ma

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

 

- Reply message -
From: "Chuck S" 
To: "cnc-list CNC boat owners" , "cc-3436" 

Subject: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 9:07 pm

 

My bottom paint and accessories arrived today from Defender.  All good, all 
together.  Very cool

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

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Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

[djhaug...@juno.com]

yea thats fine if they are advertised that way.  i purchased what is supposed 
to be brand new... 

-- Original Message --
From: Knowles Rich 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 20:52:55 -0300


I'm going to have a look at a couple if boxes myself tomorrow. I'm wondering if 
they are selling remanufactured units, which I've bought for years with no 
problems. 
Rich KnowlesIndigo. LF38Halifax
On 2013-04-09, at 20:00, Chuck S  wrote:

Danny,
That's weird.  Stick to your guns.  Ask them to send you an unopened box.  
Tell em you've heard so many nice things about their customer service being 
second to none and you paid money for brand new instruments, not a display 
item.  If that doesn't get you satisfaction, ask to speak to a supervisor.  
Can't hurt.  I spent $900 this year and several thousand over the years, and 
I'll complain too, if it might help.  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJFrom: djhaug...@juno.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 6:41:24 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

Well, They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same...  Except, now 
everything says TackTick instead of Raymarine...  If it wasn't for that, I'd 
have bet it was the same box of stuff... I don't what to say...  Why would they 
open the boxes...it does not make any sense to me... Is the fact that it now 
says TackTick mean anything...  It's just weird...  guess I'll stick with this 
and see if it works... Danny

-- Original Message --
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:28:30 -0300

 
Danny Do you suspect this was maybe a display unit at some point?  Are they 
offering an "open box" discount like many big box retailers do? MikeFrom: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
 Okay,So the Tack tick/raymarine instruments just showed up Thursday night.  I 
opened the shipping box and pulled out the Tack Tick box and the first thing I 
notice is the factory seal is broken.  I go no further and write them the next 
morning and tell them about the seal.  Thay then say, "Mr. Haughey,Thank you 
for your email. There are times when our sales department willneed to open the 
boxes on some instruments to double check something such asif all the parts are 
present. I would say go ahead and inspect the item toensure all pieces are in 
the box and nothing looks amiss. There should beinstructions in the box which 
will tell you what should be included. Ifanything looks questionable, please 
send us a photo and we can check on ourend to see if that is how the unit 
should be or not. I do not think what youreceived is anything used, though, we 
likely just had to get into an unitbox to check on a part.Sincerely,..."

I really don't like this answer.  Why would they open a box the check if all 
the parts are there???  I call BS!

Anyway, I open the box this morning and there are scratches, the lens 
protectors are all bubbles underneath.  They just called me as I'm writing 
this...

He is telling me that they aren't packages well from the factory, they have 
never taken a return...blah blah blah...but, I'll get another one right out to 
you...

He have a much better argument if the factory seal wasn't broken...  The stuff 
is all rattling around in the box!  This is how ray marine packages a $2000 
system?

I guess Ill find out when I get the next one...

Here a few photos.

http://sdrv.ms/10FhaTl

http://sdrv.ms/10Fhh17

http://sdrv.ms/10FhpO8

http://sdrv.ms/10FhD7S

http://sdrv.ms/10FhGk6

It just all seems quite strange to me...

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 06:23:33 -0400

I got my stuff yesterday too!  I did not get a chance to open the boxes yet 
but, should do that this evening.

I had walled out of there without ordering a new hatch.  My bowmar hatch has a 
broken hinge and there are no replacement parts available.  So I ended up 
calling then like thursday, after the sale and they honored the sale price on a 
lewmar low profile model.  

I pulled the old hatch over the weekend and all the bolts were suck and some 
snapped.  I guess that the nw hatch was definitely in order.  I've now blown my 
budget for this year.

Danny
Lolita
1973 viking 33
Westport point, ma

T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network

 
- Reply message -
From: "Chuck S" 
To: "cnc-list CNC boat owners" , "cc-3436" 

Subject: Stus-List Defender delivery
Date: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 9:07 pm

 
My bottom paint and accessories arrived today from Defender.  All good, all 
together.  Very cool

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
___

Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

[Rick Brass]

Steve,

 

Somewhere around the winter of 2004-2005 I installed an Edson wheel cover kit 
onto the wheel on Imzadi, after I got a bargain on E-Bay. The cover is made out 
of fairly thick Elk hide, tan colored, with a suede texture to the cover. I 
kept a length of the material for use in other projects, and I’d guess it is 
about 3/16ths thick. The wheel was exposed to the elements 24/7/365 until I 
finally covered the binnacle to protect the compass, chart plotter, and newly 
varnished teak stuff on the reconditioned pedestal in February 2011,  

 

No evidence of any staining, fading, or degradation of the elk hide cover after 
all this time. It’s pretty tough stuff. 

 

Now if you have a cover made from thinner material o something that is tanned 
for a hard surface or a color, YMMV. 

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa
Se

nt: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

 

Hi All.

 

My girlfriend and I sewed on a leather wheel cover from a kit a few weeks ago 
... well, she did most of the work. The wheel is nice and it's been sitting in 
the house waiting for spring. Before mounting the wheel on the boat I wanted to 
know if there was anything we should do to treat the leather before putting it 
out in the elements? Some kind of leather treatment? 

 

Thanks,

Steve

C&C 32

Toronto

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

[Jake Brodersen]

I mounted my compressor in the port side lazarette.  It has one small vent
at the aft end.  Performance has been good, but I'm not tracking the
amperage it uses.  It runs much less than 50% of the time, depending on the
outside temperature.  The lazarette was a better option than inside the
cabin, where there is very little airflow, except for a solar vent.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles
Rich
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 4:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

Just an observation:  if the unit us not well fed with cool air, it will
work harder and will use more electricity. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-04-08, at 17:08, Alan Bergen  wrote:

> They suggest not putting the compressor in an enclosed space without
ventilation, but I installed mine under the dinette area, with no ill
effect.

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Re: Stus-List Defender delivery

[Brent Driedger]

I have purchased 3 separate  Raymarine products for my boat in the last 2 years 
from 3 different suppliers including Defender. Each time the product arrived I 
am surprised by the very un-Apple like way they do their packaging. The only 
reassurance I have that the product was last touched by foreign factory workers 
is that the instructions and supporting bits are sealed in baggies. 

Brent
27-5
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-04-09, at 10:41 PM, "djhaug...@juno.com"  wrote:

> Well,
>  
> They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same...  Except, now 
> everything says TackTick instead of Raymarine...  If it wasn't for that, I'd 
> have bet it was the same box of stuff...
>  
> I don't what to say...  Why would they open the boxes...it does not make any 
> sense to me...
>  
> Is the fact that it now says TackTick mean anything...  It's just weird...  
> guess I'll stick with this and see if it works...
>  
> Danny
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
> Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:28:30 -0300
> 
> Danny
>  
> Do you suspect this was maybe a display unit at some point?  Are they 
> offering an "open box" discount like many big box retailers do?
>  
> Mike
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> djhaug...@juno.com
> Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:43 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
>  
> Okay,
> So the Tack tick/raymarine instruments just showed up Thursday night.  I 
> opened the shipping box and pulled out the Tack Tick box and the first thing 
> I notice is the factory seal is broken.  I go no further and write them the 
> next morning and tell them about the seal.  Thay then say, 
> "Mr. Haughey,
> 
> Thank you for your email. There are times when our sales department will
> need to open the boxes on some instruments to double check something such as
> if all the parts are present. I would say go ahead and inspect the item to
> ensure all pieces are in the box and nothing looks amiss. There should be
> instructions in the box which will tell you what should be included. If
> anything looks questionable, please send us a photo and we can check on our
> end to see if that is how the unit should be or not. I do not think what you
> received is anything used, though, we likely just had to get into an unit
> box to check on a part.
> 
> Sincerely,..."
> 
> I really don't like this answer.  Why would they open a box the check if all 
> the parts are there???  I call BS!
> 
> Anyway, I open the box this morning and there are scratches, the lens 
> protectors are all bubbles underneath.  They just called me as I'm writing 
> this...
> 
> He is telling me that they aren't packages well from the factory, they have 
> never taken a return...blah blah blah...but, I'll get another one right out 
> to you...
> 
> He have a much better argument if the factory seal wasn't broken...  The 
> stuff is all rattling around in the box!  This is how ray marine packages a 
> $2000 system?
> 
> I guess Ill find out when I get the next one...
> 
> Here a few photos.
> 
> http://sdrv.ms/10FhaTl
> 
> http://sdrv.ms/10Fhh17
> 
> http://sdrv.ms/10FhpO8
> 
> http://sdrv.ms/10FhD7S
> 
> http://sdrv.ms/10FhGk6
> 
> It just all seems quite strange to me...
> 
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
> Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 06:23:33 -0400
> 
> I got my stuff yesterday too!  I did not get a chance to open the boxes yet 
> but, should do that this evening.
> 
> I had walled out of there without ordering a new hatch.  My bowmar hatch has 
> a broken hinge and there are no replacement parts available.  So I ended up 
> calling then like thursday, after the sale and they honored the sale price on 
> a lewmar low profile model.  
> 
> I pulled the old hatch over the weekend and all the bolts were suck and some 
> snapped.  I guess that the nw hatch was definitely in order.  I've now blown 
> my budget for this year.
> 
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 viking 33
> Westport point, ma
> 
> T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network
> 
>  
> 
> - Reply message -
> From: "Chuck S" 
> To: "cnc-list CNC boat owners" , "cc-3436" 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Defender delivery
> Date: Mon, Apr 1, 2013 9:07 pm
> 
>  
> 
> My bottom paint and accessories arrived today from Defender.  All good, all 
> together.  Very cool
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
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> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

[Jake Brodersen]

Fred,

 

Where did you source your LEDs from?  I'm interested in replacing my
fluorescent fixtures.  

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Hazzard
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

 

I put LED strips in place of fluorescents that were on the ceiling behind
defusers.  I control them with wireless controllers that dim and turn them
on and off.   The LED's are very bright and being able to dim them improves
the cabin ambiance a lot. 

 

Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

[Jake Brodersen]

Rick,

No ice!!!  What do you put in your Dark and Stormies???  My system has three
vertical loading ice cube trays, with room for three more, if needed.  No
shortage of ice or cold beer on my boat.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

I did a lot of research about refrigeration, and weighed a lot of
alternatives before I selected and installed mine. One of my considerations
was low power consumption for use while cruising full time.

There are a lot of alternatives out there. Most use the same model of
Danfoss compressor, and the power consumption seems to be in about the same
range for the majority of systems. A water cooled system seems to have a
slight advantage over the air cooled systems when the ambient temperature
gets up in the summer. But at the cost of increased plumbing, complexity,
and maintenance. Of the water cooled systems, I was drawn to the option of a
"keel cooler" - a bronze plate on the outside of the hull that serves as a
heat exchanger so you are not pumping raw water for cooling - and one setup
that puts a heat exchanger into your sink drain hose just above the through
hull fitting.

One really neat system I was sold on installing, but did not use, was called
a TropiCool 40. It used carbon dioxide for a refrigerant, and had to be
installed such that the condensed coolant was gravity fed from the
compressor to the evaporator inside the ice box. And a part of the power for
the compressor was provide by a sort of Sterling exothermic engine that used
the heat from the gas leaving the evaporator to generate power for the
compressor. Neat system with very low power consumption. Complex technology,
but packaged to be a plug and play installation once you set up the proper
geometry between the evaporator and compressor. 

The key to a good installation, as Wally pointed out, is to insulate your
existing icebox. That can be a pain, but is the only real way to get the
power consumption to be reasonable and the beer cold. I have between 1 and 4
inches of foam around my ice box, depending on the available space. More on
the open side of the box nearest the engine, and canned foam filling the
void between the icebox and hull. I've thought about adding something like a
space blanket to the surface facing the engine space to add to the
insulation value.

I ended up getting a Norcold icebox conversion kit. Norcold is most familiar
for making small refrigerators for RVs and dorm rooms. They make a kit for
installation in boat iceboxes that has an air cooled and automatically
converts from 12v to 120v when you plug into shore power. The
compressor/condenser is about 10x14x20, and is installed in the starboard
lazarette just aft of my icebox. My installation uses the cowl vents left
over from the days when my boat had an A4 to provide additional cooling air
to the condenser coils. The Norcold has no freezer capability, but will keep
the ice box at about 40 degrees below outside air temp. And BTW, one of the
prime reasons for getting the Norcold system - in addition to a
recommendation from a cruiser I knew - was that the cost of the kit was
under $500 at the time I bought it.

Hope this helps.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



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Stus-List Montague Harbour

[sam . c . salter]

 This place is up for sale.  $1.6MSailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously. Anyone on the west coast know anything about it? Anything of concern?Is it popular?Is the island sinking into the sea? I've sailed the Gulf Islands and the San Juans a lot, but never been to Montague. Sam Salter C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta 

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Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Sam,

It is a lovely, relatively large harbour. Shallow on the south-east 
end and very protected. A good hurricane hole... except we don't get 
hurricane here.


Ferry service to Vancouver and to other locations if that's important

I expect 1.6 mil will only by a piece of it and not the park area.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet, 35 mk-1

At 06:37 PM 09/04/2013, you wrote:

This place is up for sale.  $1.6M
Sailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously.
Anyone on the west coast know anything about it?
Anything of concern?
Is it popular?
Is the island sinking into the sea?

I've sailed the Gulf Islands and the San Juans a lot, but never been 
to Montague.


Sam Salter
C&C 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta


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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

[Tim Goodyear]

I don't think anyone mentioned the cold plate option instead of a thin-wall
evaporator?  I went with that for lower power consumption, along with a
variable speed compressor that can make the most out of charging voltages
(alternator or shore power).

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:25 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:

> Rick,
>
> No ice!!!  What do you put in your Dark and Stormies???  My system has
> three
> vertical loading ice cube trays, with room for three more, if needed.  No
> shortage of ice or cold beer on my boat.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Midnight Mistress
> Hampton VA
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Brass
> Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:24 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help
>
>  I did a lot of research about refrigeration, and weighed a lot of
> alternatives before I selected and installed mine. One of my considerations
> was low power consumption for use while cruising full time.
>
> There are a lot of alternatives out there. Most use the same model of
> Danfoss compressor, and the power consumption seems to be in about the same
> range for the majority of systems. A water cooled system seems to have a
> slight advantage over the air cooled systems when the ambient temperature
> gets up in the summer. But at the cost of increased plumbing, complexity,
> and maintenance. Of the water cooled systems, I was drawn to the option of
> a
> "keel cooler" - a bronze plate on the outside of the hull that serves as a
> heat exchanger so you are not pumping raw water for cooling - and one setup
> that puts a heat exchanger into your sink drain hose just above the through
> hull fitting.
>
> One really neat system I was sold on installing, but did not use, was
> called
> a TropiCool 40. It used carbon dioxide for a refrigerant, and had to be
> installed such that the condensed coolant was gravity fed from the
> compressor to the evaporator inside the ice box. And a part of the power
> for
> the compressor was provide by a sort of Sterling exothermic engine that
> used
> the heat from the gas leaving the evaporator to generate power for the
> compressor. Neat system with very low power consumption. Complex
> technology,
> but packaged to be a plug and play installation once you set up the proper
> geometry between the evaporator and compressor.
>
> The key to a good installation, as Wally pointed out, is to insulate your
> existing icebox. That can be a pain, but is the only real way to get the
> power consumption to be reasonable and the beer cold. I have between 1 and
> 4
> inches of foam around my ice box, depending on the available space. More on
> the open side of the box nearest the engine, and canned foam filling the
> void between the icebox and hull. I've thought about adding something like
> a
> space blanket to the surface facing the engine space to add to the
> insulation value.
>
> I ended up getting a Norcold icebox conversion kit. Norcold is most
> familiar
> for making small refrigerators for RVs and dorm rooms. They make a kit for
> installation in boat iceboxes that has an air cooled and automatically
> converts from 12v to 120v when you plug into shore power. The
> compressor/condenser is about 10x14x20, and is installed in the starboard
> lazarette just aft of my icebox. My installation uses the cowl vents left
> over from the days when my boat had an A4 to provide additional cooling air
> to the condenser coils. The Norcold has no freezer capability, but will
> keep
> the ice box at about 40 degrees below outside air temp. And BTW, one of the
> prime reasons for getting the Norcold system - in addition to a
> recommendation from a cruiser I knew - was that the cost of the kit was
> under $500 at the time I bought it.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint stripper

[Chuck S]

Soda blasting estimate for my 35 footer was $1640 , they do the work and clean 
up afterward. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Jim Watts"  
To: "1 CnC List"  
Sent: Monday, April 8, 2013 10:46:02 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint stripper 


We just started carrying a product called "DeFoul"; It is sprayed on, left 
overnight, then the whole mess is removed the next day. It doesn't break down 
the paint, just the bond onto the hull. Looks like a fabulous product, the 
downside it it would cost >$1500 to do your boat. 




On 12 March 2013 18:00, Rich Knowles < r...@sailpower.ca > wrote: 


Has anyone tried any new chemistry for removing bottom paint? 

Rich Knowles 
Indigo. LF38 
Halifax 


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-- 
Jim Watts 
Paradigm Shift 
C&C 35 Mk III 
Victoria, BC 

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Stus-List C&C 40 half-hull

[Paul Baker]

Not mine, but thought this might be of interest to someone on here:
http://victoria.en.craigslist.ca/boa/3733830862.html


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Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

[Graham Collins]

Jeff is correct, I did use those.  I used the 3 ft of the 120 LED/m to 
replace 1 fluorescent in the ceiling.  I think it is very bright, but I 
may be biased...  Scott saw it in action though, what say you Scott - 
bright enough for the main cabin?


I'm sure that other suppliers would be cheaper, I was more looking for a 
quick trial so bought local.  E-bay is good...


I also stuck the LED strips on a hunk of stainless for heatsinking.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-04-09 3:12 PM, Jeffrey Nelson wrote:

Pretty sure Graham used these:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,70322&p=70323


On 04/09/13, *Bill Coleman *  wrote:


Fred,

Do you have a link to the LED's you used?

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Fred Hazzard

*Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:46 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

I put LED strips in place of fluorescents that were on the ceiling 
behind defusers.  I control them with wireless controllers that dim 
and turn them on and off.   The LED's are very bright and being able 
to dim them improves the cabin ambiance a lot.


Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C&C 44

Portland, Or

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Graham Collins

*Sent:* Monday, April 08, 2013 5:03 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting

Switches.  I was going to add a dimmer, but have changed my mind.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-04-05 10:00 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:

Are people adding in-line switches to the LED strips or just
switching them at the breaker?

Joel

35/3

The Office

Annapolis

On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Michael Brown mailto:m...@tkg.ca>> wrote:

The white 3528 strips work well, good light output and low power.
I have them glued and tie wrapped to a strip of high density foam
board ( about 1/2" wide and 1/4" thick ) that is then screwed in
place. The plastic cover on the strip proved a bit difficult to glue.

Most of the strips have a power rating per meter, the ones I have
are < 4.8 Watts / meter. They are also rated for 12V, but your boat
may have 13.2 to 14.2 volts depending on you charging system. The
LED are fairly sensitive to voltage and could be over driven.

Add a constant current driver, a LED dimmer (also available on eBay)
or a resistor in series. If you expect the highest voltage you will
have on the boat will be 14.5v, then the resistor will need to drop
2.5v at rated current.

The strips I used where a bit under 2/3 of a meter, used about 3.2W
at 12v so required 0.250 amps of current.

To drop 2.5v at 0.250 amps you need a 10 ohm resistor
 ( Resistance in ohms = Volts / Amps ).
The resistor will need to be rated for 0.625 watts so I used a
1 watt resistor ( about $0.20 from Sayal ).
 ( Power in Watts  = Amps squared * Resistance )

Adding the resistor will dim the LEDs slightly at 12V.

For longer strips where the power to the resistor > 1 watt or
were you want the best lighting power a constant current source
is much better. Simple ones are only four components and cost
less than $10 in parts. The dimmers from China are only $8!

http://madscientisthut.com/wordpress/tag/led-current-control/


Mike
C&C 30
Windburn




> Hi All.
>
> I just volunteered my boat for a test case using these LED
strip lights that are available on ebay cheap out of china. I
haven't seen them used on boats before. They are marketed as
being waterproof. There are a few variations on the LED types
with the two most common being "SMD 5050" and "SMD 3528". The
5050 have triple LEDs so they can be made into any colour, they
are also brighter because of the triple LED and consume more. The
3528, which I ordered, are smaller, single cell LEDs and consume
less (why I chose them). Both varieties come in 5 meter lengths
for about $20. The 3528 strip that I ordered has 600 LEDs on it!
They can be cut to size. I purchased these to provide accent
lighting in the cabin. They should be bright enough to be used as
a primary light source for hanging out but not for reading (not
the way I'm installing them, anyway).
>
> For the accent lighting I'll be installing them behind the teak
trim on both sides of the boat just under the cabinets on either
side. They should be hidden from view in there and I will likely
aim them UP into that void rather than down, I'm a big fan of
diffused lighting. I ordered the "natural white 4500k" LEDs. What
I'm hoping to accomplish is a nice subdued ambient light in the
cabin. I might even try a dimmer.
>
> If anyone is interested in this I can update once received and
installed.
> Check them out:
  

Re: Stus-List Spiders - was Leather Wheel cover

[Rick Brass]

I used to have a spider problem, as do many of the folks on my dock at the
club where I keep the boat. I have spent considerable time on moorings or at
anchor, and can't really say I have ever had a problem - though the little
buggers do seem to be able to "fly" out to the boat on the wind and a thread
of silk and I still had the occasional spider even when away from the dock.

 

Now I say "used" to have a problem. Several of us have done two things to
eliminate it.

 

First, the spiders are there so they can eat the other bugs. Hence all the
webs in the morning. (As someone already commented, you probably won't get
any spiders under your pedestal cover because there is no food there.) The
clue for us was that the webs on the docks and the boats were densest every
morning in the vicinity of the dock lighting. Light draws bugs. Bugs draw
spiders. (and spiders draw birds that sit on the lifelines and boom, and
poop all over the deck)

 

Several of us replaced the bulbs in the dock lighting with low wattage
yellow bug lights. Something like 10 watt night light bulbs. The number of
spiders and webs greatly reduced - or maybe just moved to be adjacent to
OPBs.

 

Secondly, to take care of the remaining spiders several of us use a bugspray
called "BugOff" that we purchase at Lowes. It comes in a gallon (or maybe 2
gallon) bottle with a pump and spray nozzle, and boy does it work well. We
spray the dock, docklines, and pilings, and the area of the boat where the
spiders build webs. A couple of applications and no spiders for 2 or 3
months. Repeat as required.

 

Hope this helps with your problem.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Leather Wheel cover treatment?

 

At my club we have a tremendous problem with spiders. I'm on a mooring and
the boat is COVERED in them. I looked at the binnacle cover kit from
sailrite and while it looks like a good solution to keeping the wheel in
nice shape it will most certainly become a favourite refuge for the spiders.


 

Anyone else have a spider problem? I'm talking hundreds of them, every time
I visit the boat. 

 

Steve C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

[Jim Watts]

That marina seems like it has been for sale forever. The new buyers wait
maybe a year before putting out the for sale sign again. I suspect it's got
"a lot of potential". It's a potential sinkhole.




On 9 April 2013 18:37,  wrote:

> This place is up for sale.  $1.6M
> Sailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously.
> Anyone on the west coast know anything about it?
> Anything of concern?
> Is it popular?
> Is the island sinking into the sea?
>
> I've sailed the Gulf Islands and the San Juans a lot, but never been to
> Montague.
>
> Sam Salter
> C&C 26 Liquorice
> Ghost Lake Alberta
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Montague Harbour

[Jim Watts]

Here's the listing...

http://www.bcoceanfront.com/oceanfront-galiano-islandmontague-harbour-marina?id=273




On 9 April 2013 21:22, Jim Watts  wrote:

> That marina seems like it has been for sale forever. The new buyers wait
> maybe a year before putting out the for sale sign again. I suspect it's got
> "a lot of potential". It's a potential sinkhole.
>
>
>
>
> On 9 April 2013 18:37,  wrote:
>
>> This place is up for sale.  $1.6M
>> Sailing friend of mine is looking at it seriously.
>> Anyone on the west coast know anything about it?
>> Anything of concern?
>> Is it popular?
>> Is the island sinking into the sea?
>>
>> I've sailed the Gulf Islands and the San Juans a lot, but never been to
>> Montague.
>>
>> Sam Salter
>> C&C 26 Liquorice
>> Ghost Lake Alberta
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>



-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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