Someone said a few days ago,( can not find it again)
To use some Called ALL Clear ???or something in stead of WAX,
Can I get more info please. Well, you know it is most likely call something
else in Australia.
Phillip Matheson
mathe...@dodo.com.au
Australia
VH PKR
See our engines and kits at.
h
aut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-Original Message-
From: krnet-bounces+brian.kraut=engalt@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+brian.kraut=engalt@mylist.net]On Behalf Of
Phillip Matheson
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 10:00 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> VE resi
Oh!! and nobody has mentioned the use of tissue for the final layer of the
fuel tank construction. That's two layers if bid and one layer of tissue to
seal the weave in the BID that's what I've used and all seems well.
Gav
Air Dry is the trade name. Makes the final coat of VE dry tack free. =
Made by
resin manufacturers as an additive same as the many other additives to =
speed
or slow cure times, remove air bubbles, improve wet out characteristics =
on
certain materials. Any good marine supply house or composite sup
Styrofoam is a no-no unless it has been sealed with a thin coat of epoxy
based micro slurry. You got good cups if it took 20 minutes, I use unwaxed
paper cups or old tuna fish cans for mixing, Right size and free. Beer cans
have a refundable deposit up here, besides I was never weaned and still
dri
Scott
Just to clear up my mind
Are you saying that if you paint PVA release agent onto a layup on V/E or
P/E resin it will make it dry better??
V/E does have drying problems, it stays tacky for some time,
Does PVA help this.
Phillip Matheson
mathe...@dodo.com.au
Australia
VH PKR
See our engines
Phil if you are having trouble with V.E staying tacky you need to add wax in
styrene to it for the final coat.
The wax floats to the top of the resin while it's curing excluding the air,
which is what needs to happen for V.E to cure properly.
Gav
> V/E does have drying problems, it stays tac
Just to clear up my mind Are you saying that if you paint PVA
release agent onto a layup on V/E or P/E resin it will make it dry
better??
V/E does have drying problems, it stays tacky for some time,
Does PVA help this.
PE and VE resins exude a gum to the surface (surfac
That's not gum on the surface, it's uncured resin!!! the resin with the wax
in it does cure completely and sands very well without clogging the paper,
but you do need to sand it before you recoat it if you let it completely
cure.
The resin I am using is unwaxed and I'm adding wax in styrene to the
Phillip Matheson wrote:
> Scott
> Just to clear up my mind
> Are you saying that if you paint PVA release agent onto a layup on
> V/E or P/E resin it will make it dry better??
>
> V/E does have drying problems, it stays tacky for some time,
> Does PVA help this.
VE and PE resins are air inhibited.
Then, how do you get rid of the wax, so it won't gum up your paper. The PVA
solution sounds good, as, then you can just wash it off.
I wish I had known this 4 years ago. I might still be using VE.
See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
There is a time for building and a t
Stephen Jacobs wrote:
>
> I am also interested in the comment regarding PVA as a potential
> solution, but what are we talking about - PVA wood glue? PVA water
> soluble release agent? PVA wall paint?
The release agent stuff that washes off easily. I never, ever use wax (or
waxed resin) since it
So you approve of using foreign materials like PVA inside your fuel
tanks! "I DON'T THINK SO" I don't need that sort of contamination in my
tanks.
Gav
The release agent stuff that washes off easily. I never, ever use wax (or
> waxed resin) since it trashes any bonds to that surface in the
: Re: Réf. : Re: KR> VE resin
> Then, how do you get rid of the wax, so it won't gum up your paper. The
PVA
> solution sounds good, as, then you can just wash it off.
The waxed resin doesn't actually leave a waxy surface on the cured resin,
It's as hard as hell. It
I Have found wax in styrene isn't waxy at all It's as runny as Avgas and is
added at only a maximum of 5% by volume. It's not even waxy to feel before
it's added to the resin, more like water.
And at those low percentages there isn't even enough of it in the resin to
clog even the smallest piece of
Don't think anyone would sand inside their gas tank. Why would you need to?
See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building
has expired.
Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gath
Glasseyegav wrote:
> So you approve of using foreign materials like PVA inside your fuel
> tanks! "I DON'T THINK SO" I don't need that sort of contamination
> in my tanks.
I wouldn't use PVA in there any more than I would wax, actually. You can't
see the inside of the tanks, why would you nee
:48 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: KR> VE resin
I Have found wax in styrene isn't waxy at all It's as runny as Avgas and is
added at only a maximum of 5% by volume. It's not even waxy to feel before
it's added to the resin, more like water.
And at those low percentages there isn
The only problem is IF you need a repair on the tank, the wax resin MUST be
Sanded and roughed up before the next layer of V/E will stick to the already
cured tank, or any other surface being repaired.
Phillip Matheson
mathe...@dodo.com.au
Australia
VH PKR
See our engines and kits at.
http://www.
I get all of my Fiberglas supplies from the local boat yard, If they don't
have it they can get it.
Gavin
> Where do you get this wax in styrene?
-
>
> I wouldn't use PVA in there any more than I would wax, actually. You can't
> see the inside of the tanks, why would you need to sand them?
U you wouldn't need to sand them ! but you also don't want to
have uncured resin in there either.
Gavin
Glasseyegav wrote:
>
> U you wouldn't need to sand them ! but you also don't
> want to have uncured resin in there either.
True, but then I'm planning on aluminum tanks anyway.
--
Steve
N205FT
mystic...@swbell.net
He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
Hello Net
I have been following this discussion on VE resin. As soon as the temp
warms a bit, I plan to repair a leak in my original Rand two part gas tank.
My halves were joined with epoxy resin. My leak is at the bottom where the
threaded fitting was epoxied to the bottom. My thought was to
Should I consider resealing the bottom with VE???
Orma
Epoxy will stick, to V/E but not as well as V/E will stick to it's self..
Personally I would remove all the epoxy if possible, sand well, and repair
with V/S resin, you can add M/balloons as a filler, place normal cloth as
you would w
I was reading up on VE as that is what I'm using for my tanks and the resin
supplier was quick to point out that all composite fuel tanks should be
coated on the inside with Gelcoat, the same as the marine industry has been
doing for years. Gives a smooth surface that contaminants can't stick to
ving proof to never trust anyone who is bigger around
than tall!"
---Original Message---
From: Doug Rupert
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 02/06/05 22:08:38
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: RE: KR> VE resin fuel Tanks
I was reading up on VE as that is what I'm using for my
Gene; One coat brushed directly to inner surface. As long as the VE has =
not
had wax added or Air Dry no sanding needed. I have been watching the PVA
thread and wondered why go to all the trouble when resin/material =
suppliers
all carry Air Dry which is especially made to eliminate the tackiness
Doug Rupert wrote:
>
> I have been
> watching the PVA thread and wondered why go to all the trouble when
> resin/material suppliers all carry Air Dry which is especially made
> to eliminate the tackiness problem and is used for the final lay-up
> for a smooth slick surface that is tack free.
I jus
gleone wrote:
> Doug,
> This sounds like a great idea. Thanks for sharing it as I'm going to
> be starting on my tanks here shortly. Quick question: Are you
> roughing the surface before applying the gelcoat or applying it
> directly and how many coats?
Normally you spray or brush a coat of gel
I am going to make a set of wing root fairings for my Midget Mustang this
weekend (I know, I know, but there are a whole lot more composite experts
here than on the tin can builders list). I will basically be putting tape
on the fusalage and wing to keep from sticking to them (fairings are
removab
VE resin should work fine for that. The strength qualities are similar
to epoxy. Final sanding can be a bit more difficult, which is why I
think most KR builders would build this part with Epoxy.
On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 20:40:51 -0500 "Brian Kraut"
writes:
> I am going to make a set of wing root fai
jscott.pi...@juno.com wrote:
> VE resin should work fine for that. The strength qualities are
> similar to epoxy. Final sanding can be a bit more difficult, which
> is why I think most KR builders would build this part with Epoxy.
If VE is anything like PE, spray it with PVA after the layup is f
As best I understand it, Bubba is correct. VE resin and PE resin use the same
catalitic process and will cure hard either in a mold of when coated with PVA
to eliminate air from the surface. Once cured, the PVA scrubs off easily. I
use scotchbright and water. All of those Diehl wing skins f
And what would PVA be?
Serge Vidal
KR2 ZS-WEC
Paris, France
"Jeff Scott"
Envoyé par : krnet-boun...@mylist.net
2005-02-04 16:17
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 2005-02-04 16:20
Pour : kr...@mylist.net
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet :
PVA = Poly Vinyl Alcohol. Also known as a spray on mold release agent.
-Jeff
-- "Serge VIDAL" wrote:
And what would PVA be?
Serge Vidal
KR2 ZS-WEC
Paris, France
Thanks, Jeff. I feel a wiser man now. ;-)
"Jeff Scott"
Envoyé par : krnet-boun...@mylist.net
2005-02-04 16:54
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 2005-02-04 16:56
Pour : kr...@mylist.net
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : Re: Réf. : Re: KR
All,
Quick question. You know how you have to scuff up (or use peel ply) on epoxy
laminates to get a good bond when adding to them? Does the same apply to Vinyl
Ester Resin laminates, or is the chemistry different so as the VE would
"rebond" to itself?
Matt
http://kr1.infinigral.com
--
Greetings Matt
Its always better to scuff it gives it a better hold..
Matt wrote:
>> Quick question. You know how you have to scuff up (or use peel ply) on
epoxy laminates to get a good bond when adding to them? Does the same apply
to Vinyl Ester Resin laminates, or is the chemistry different so as the VE
would "rebond" to itself?<<
I don't claim to be an expert
VE will re-bond to itself, but not to other resins. Dan Diehl just told me
to scuff it all the way down to the glass if I was not going to use VE and
because of the small amount of resin that I was going to need, advised me
not to bother with VE if I would sand it down as he prescribed.
So, I sugg
n
Behalf Of Dan Heath
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 4:33 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Re: KR> VE Resin
VE will re-bond to itself, but not to other resins. Dan Diehl just told
me to scuff it all the way down to the glass if I was not going to use
VE and because of the small amount of resin t
Jim,
How do you sand the stuff and how do you control the cure rate when you have
the stuff for a long time? I like the bonding characteristics. If people are
going to use it, they need to know how to finish it. I have never been able
to figure that out. The ailerons that Dan made for us, just gum
Yea, I'm just making fuel tanks with it. I may use it for other things later
on because I like how it works and flows out, and I actually prefer the smell
to that of epoxy...
To your other post, there is a styrene wax additive that you can buy, that will
help cure the outer layer of resin. You
Also keep in mind. VE does not have a very long Shelf Live
Phillip Matheson
mathe...@dodo.com.au
Australia
VH PKR
See our engines and kits at.
http://www.vw-engines.com/
http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/
See my KR Construction web page at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/FlyingKRPhil/VHPKR.html
there is a styrene wax additive that you can buy, that will help cure the
outer layer of resin
Do not use the wax if you intend to redo a layer.
The wax stops the next layer from sticking after it's dry.
You then have to really sand it back and rough it up to get any more to
stic
etone before putting down the West and filler. I found West to be easy
to sand.
Jim
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On
Behalf Of Dan Heath
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 7:14 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: RE: KR> VE Resin
Jim,
Ho
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