Hello all,
I think I know the answer to this question, but I just want to confirm. On a
Yanmar 3JH2E, are there any sacrificial anodes in the heat exchanger or
anywhere else to replace?
I've checked the repair manual for the engine, but found nothing.
Just wanting to be sure... Bruce Whitmore199
NASYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iOPuzb6CAMJER
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Jun 27, 2017 8:52 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"
wrote:
Hello all,
I think I know the answer to this question, but I just want to confirm. On a
Yanmar 3JH2E, are there any sacrificial anode
Hi Brett,
Forgive me if I am being too basic in my explanation, but I don't know your
prior level of expertise. First, there are three parts of the stuffing box.
See the picture here: Buck Algonquin 00PB75 Packing Boxes - Complete Assembly.
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Buck Algonquin 00PB75 Packing Boxes -
OK, seems like a dumb question. We spread out the cruising spinnaker on our
lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C&C 37/40+/. It is
in a spinnaker sock. The sheets were in the bag, but not attached to the sail.
It is made by UK. Along one edge is a bright green strip.
the front faces forward and numbers can be read.
Often sail makers will put red stripes on the port side and a yellow stripe on
the foot. This also help when packing the sail in a traditional bag. Since
you have a sock it is less needed.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On J
Hello,
We took over ownership of a 1994 C&C 37/40+ about 4 months ago. At that time,
we knew we had a battery issue. As it turns out, after we replaced the
batteries, we found that one of the battery banks was still not showing enough
voltage getting to the panel. I immediately suspected a b
Hello all,
I saw the comment about wheel vs. under-deck autopilots, and have a rather
funny story. It turns out our new boat neighbors had taken their 42 ft.
Catalina out for a relatively long sail (a couple hundred miles). As they were
coming back, the steering failed. They attached their em
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+. The starboard water tank is leaking through a crack
in an upper corner of the tank. The P.O. tried to seal the crack with a
combination of silicone sealer reinforced with a piece of fiberglass cloth.
Obviously, that repair didn't hold. Thankfully, the ta
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ with an Adler/Barbour A/C unit. The drain pan is the
issue. When we bought the boat, the surveyor noticed the rusty pan, and
suggested cleaning out the rust. In addition, the drain for the pan for some
reason is in the side of the unit rather than in the bo
Agreed as to the warning on the wiring, and as of 1994, no, they did not wire
the boats with tinned wire. I am finding a LOT of the wire in my boat to be
blackend with corrosion. While it is still largely functional, in the back of
my mind I'm weighing the long-term need for properly rewiring
Hello all,
First, I want to thank everyone here for their help - it really gave me a jump
start on fixing my water tank.
Here's what I found:
- The tank is definitely made of LDPE (low density polyethelene). HDPE does
NOT stick to it, so don't even begin to think that all polyethelene
Hello all,
After fixing our cracked water tank, I put the caps back on the inspection
ports, and filled up all the tanks, checking for leaks. One in particular
leaks rather badly, and it turns out the lip on the cap is cracked, causing the
o-ring to not make a very good seal. These do not appe
Absolutely well done, Ken!
We've only had our C&C 37/40+ for about 6 months now, and hope that in another
year or so ours will start to look almost as good as yours!
Thanks for sharing! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
To:
Hello all,
I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 loops.
We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless abandon,
and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside a
First to Richard, who started this thread:
First, identify the light. On our 1994 C&C 37/40+, ours lights are Aqua Signal
41 series lights. 1 screw at the bottom will remove the lens. As for the
bulb, in these, they are specifically Aqua Signal brand labled, and are 25 watt
incandescent bu
You Canadians don't have the benefit of Amazon Prime? That would suck... OK,
that could change my previous post.
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Sent: Sunday, August 13,
I have been in the process of replacing all the interior light bulbs with LEDs,
and am now moving on to the navigation lights. For my bow navigation lights,
I'm probably going to go with Marinebeam, as I could not find high-intensity
green 1157 LEDs. There are plenty of red ones out there (thi
Hello,
I am just replacing them on my 1994 C&C 37/40+ now. If they are small chrome
caps with cutouts to let the light out the bottom, then they should be the same
as what I have. Mine were stamped 90 on the metal base, which is equivalent to
the same base as a 1142 bulb, but you're right that
Hello all,
Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has a section of deck core, limited solely to the area
under the sliding companionway hood that has become rotted and needs to be
replaced. This was caused by the sliding hatch stop being slammed too many
times by the DPO and the stop being solely held into the de
I am also thinking about putting solar panels on our bimini. As to the Blue
Seas ACR, I used something different on our old C&C 27, a Yandina Battery
Combiner which is essentially the same thing, but the Yandina is very small, I
think it is much easier to install (no extra wires to run dependi
I had an interesting issue which we only sorta knew about when we bought
Astralis, our 1994 C&C 37/40+. Battery 1 (starting battery) showed strong, but
the #2 battery was showing 11.9 - 12.1 volts with no loads on them. After
replacing the batteries with known good units, the battery voltage
Hello all,
The last thing I want to do is to start "The Great Dinghy War".
That said, our '94 came with two outboards, one 6.5 hp Honda 4 stroke mounted
the the stern railing and an old Torqeedo. Haven't even gotten around to
testing either one yet - too many other things on my list! Thre was
...@sbcglobal.net
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin
Which is why I re-wired my entire boat. :) $(
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 11:59 AM, Bruce Whitmor
Hello all,
I thought I'd let you know what I found out The bulbs mentioned below fit very
will and put out a good amount of red light through the courtesy lights, which
made it easy to see down below when it is dark but won't disrupt you night
vision. The small bulb size worked quite well in
tle motors have little carb jets, most anything in the gas
can cause trouble. I now fill the internal tank with a filter paper in the
funnel to remove very fine crud.
Nate
1980 C&C 30-1Tartan 31
On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 12:24 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
wrote:
Hello all,
The last thing I wa
I agree with Rick's comments. We were out on a friend's Catalina 42 last
weekend, and while it was clearly voluminous down below, the lack of handholds
was very noticeable. His is probably a late-80s, early 90's boat.
That said, I wasn't going to say anything... :)
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 4
If your wheel is stiff and you've lubed everything, then I would strongly
suspect a bent rudder shaft, and since it has been stiff since you bought the
boat, you're unfortunately in a position where you don't know all the past
history.
I had a friend who's wife was motoring and didn't realize
This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy
them? Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still
good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
Fr
FYI, I also found a loose idler pulley mounting nut, and also found the idler
axles are stainless pins.
In the end, a very easy fix.
Thanks for insights everyone!
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc
In response to the prior post about fixing a leaking water tank, see my post
below.
One final update. An additional source I found around for LDPE was water
softener bags. I think it might be a little thin to effectively weld with, but
if you run short, it's nice to know that the bag you threw
I have to agree with Matt - There's the question of the missing key, potential
damage to the stuffing box material, etc. I would be quite concerned about
doing any motoring whatsoever until such time as the key is replaced.
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
Hello all,
I thought I would share our story about Irma:
As we prepared for Irma late last week, we went from “It looks like it’s going
to miss us, but let’s prepare anyway”, to “this could be really bad, but we’ll
be OK at home”, to evacuation in anticipation of a catastrophic hit. In that
pr
Hi David,
The lighted switch under the sink turns on/off the solenoid. So, you need
power to it from your panel switch, and you need the switch on to allow the
solenoid to turn on the whole system. Interesting that it keeps clicking off
sounds like a short.
You might want to turn off the sw
Hello all,
I think I would reiterate what a few have said here, but the diagnostics are as
follows:
1). If the engine is making no noise whatsoever when the pushbutton switch is
depressed, check the switch first. You should be able to do this by jumping
the contacts momentarily. I had a switc
Hi Josh,
I was really curious when I read about the proper position of the shifter, and
found multiple references of the following advisory purportedly from Yanmar as
follows"
And for Yanmar/Kanzaki:
Advisory Number: MSA08-003:
DATE February 8, 2008 Dealers and OEMs
TO: All Marine Distributors
Good point, Michael. There is a significant difference that I failed to
mention between the in/out ignition switch and the push button, and in
retrospect it may have been the push/pull that I replaced - It's been a lot of
years, and I just replaced a different type of silver pushbutton switch o
Good point Michael, and it is a very easy job, as the mechanical pumps also
fill a cup that is designed to retain a strainer. So, immediately after the
engine dies, one can go down and ease off the thumb screw and check for fuel in
the bowl. If there is an electric pump, one could remove the m
Hi Josh,
Quick question which I've wrestled with in my mind - Why torque the keel bolts
on the hard? Since the keel will spend most of its time hanging from the
bottom of the boat in the water, isn't it better to torque the bolts in the
specific situation where the stresses will be applied?
Tha
Hello all,
I just wanted to check in with you folks. For those of you who are in
saltwater, on a dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you expect
to see your shaft zinc last? I get a regular report from our diver, who, after
about 6 months, indicated that the zinc is down to abou
I can't say I've ever seen, nor heard of butyl rubber in a tube.
Just FYI,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Tom Jacobs via CnC-List
To: Dave Godwin
Cc: Tom Jacobs ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 8:07 PM
Subject: Re:
Hello all,
I am thinking about a number of similar attachments where I'd really like a
machine screw attachment instead of a wood screw type (which in my opinion
tears up fiberglass and/or whatever you're screwing it into). This way one can
remove the screw multiple times.
So, I came across
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary
anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust. The chain is also about
20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional wisdom I
think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highl
I did the same thing as Tom, and I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSJ58UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Overall I'm happy, they were rated for somewhat more lumens, and I used 2 in
each of the fixtures. In a perfect world, I might have even added a 3rd per
fixt
Just makes me think of Spaceballs where Mega Made is switched from Suck to
Blow
Mega maid suck to blow
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Mega maid suck to blow
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Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Josh Muckley vi
ROFLMAO!
That's a classic...
Thanks for sharing!
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um
Hello all,
We got to the boat over the weekend and found one of the small square
instrument covers for our Raymarine instruments (ST60+, etc.) had evidently got
blown off. One was gone, another was loose.
These things are $20+ shipping. Pretty stupidly priced for a piece of plastic
IMHO.
Hello all,
I was wondering if some of you may have some insights regarding mast boot tape.
We have had a slight leak around the base of the mast since we bought the boat
in February. I pulled off a mass of old tape which was peeling anyway, and
applied Rubbaweld Mast Boot Tape with somewhat ma
list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape Under “other solutions,” I use a Spartite
plug at the partners which, in addition to holding the mast in place, also
keeps water out. From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 13,
2017 2:25 PMTo: C&C
I have to agree with Neil. The rigging is responsible for your primary mode of
propulsion, and the forces are signficant. At least down here in Florida
(Tampa area), riggers are pretty inexpensive, and the investment is well worth
it for peace of mind.
Just my $.02 worth,
Bruce Whitmore
1994
Hello all,
I am going to replace the plexiglass on my companionway. The sliding part is
easy. However, for the fixed portion forward of slider, it is stuck down to
fiberglass. I am guessing that it was originally installed with Plexus like
the fixed ports on the side were done.
Can anyone con
On the slider, there is a piece of teak that is used to push open & pull closed
the hatch from the outside.
I'd like to replace that with something more maintenance free, and I'm thinking
either something like a bar of starboard or PVC.
What would you recommend?
Thanks! Bruce Whitmore
1994
It is a 1994 C&C 37/40+.
I have one stanchion base that is cracked that I'd like to replace.
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
eve
Hello all,
We have a relatively new to us C&C 37/40+ with a swing keel. There is a keel
stop on the deck which amounts to a stainless steel tube mounted to a plate,
welded over (mostly) at one end, with 8 bolts going through the plate and a
thick plastic block. I noticed the bolts were a littl
Hello all,
I was wondering if you folks might be able to give me some guidance. I ordered
adjustable Genoa track cars from Garhauer, and even sent them a photo of the
track. When they got here, the cars won't fit - they will not even slide over
the track. I sent new photos to Garhauer, and Gu
Clist
Cc: Dennis C.
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2017 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+
I have Lewmar Size 1's. They're OK but I'm not overly happy with them.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Dec 19, 2017 at 2:34 PM, Bru
Great idea Ken!
Thank you very much. I had totally forgotten about "The Third Wave". I have
reached out to Eric.
This list is worth every bit of my donation - and more! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken
Darn. Already sold. Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2017 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37
. Sinai, NY
On 19 December 2017 at 16:34, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello all,
I was wondering if you folks might be able to give me some guidance. I
ordered adjustable Genoa track cars from Garhauer, and even sent them a
photo of the track. When they
ee that you need new cars. The adjustable cars on my boat look
identical to yours--all I did was add more purchase with blocks at the end of
the track. Charlie Nelson1995 C&C 36XL/kcbWater Phantom cenel...@aol.com
-----Original Message-
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc
Hi Josh,
I have no experience with this whatsoever, but please be so kind as to keep me
abreast of your work, as I have the same boat.
In hindsight, is there a way to determine the condition of the step without
pulling the mast?
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcgl
Hello all,
On both of my old anchor rodes, there is a small (6 oz or so) lead weight with
a line through the middle, with the line on both ends woven into the rode so
that the weight stays held up against the line in place. On one line, the
weight is about 10 feet from the end connected to the
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress
foam and fabric. I have noticed a very small leak which is coming from the
starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate the cockpit
floor. We have stopped the vast majority of the le
t the wires come through the pedestal guard tube? And exit
through the deck via the gaurd tube foot? A picture might help.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Mon, Jan 15, 2018, 5:02 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
wrote:
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+, and we are
Here's my take on the centerboard:
We generally drop the board as soon as we are in deep enough water to ensure we
won't touch bottom. Here in West Florida, touching bottom is a real and
present danger as you go in & out of harbors, and even in the intracoastal. To
have anything more than 5' o
Hello all,
OK, so with all the talk about centerboard models, and now replacement of the
cable itself, what is the process specific to a 37/40+?
The cable attachment at the keel seems a bit difficult to get to, as when we
hauled the boat for survey, the board was down, but the cable attachment di
Hello all,
OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the
wheel is centered. I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port. By the way, were talking
Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I
don't think it can slip. Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key. I've
tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on
under there, which will mean a full disassembly.
Sigh...
Bruce
there is rust. What I can't explain is why
the problem comes and goes and at such a prescribed amount. The detrimental
rust would also likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be
quite perceptible.
Josh
On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List&quo
Hi Chuck,
You're right as to the amount of wheel travel, and what that would do to
steering if I turn it that much when out sailing. I also agree as to the
keyway, and to Michael's comment, the key is in place and intact, as I removed
the radial plate for inspection. On the C&C 37/40+, the idl
I have had the pedestal partially apart, in that I replaced the brake pads and
lubed the chain. I also got it far enough apart to jump the chain links for
the purposes of realigning the wheel. I have not taken the chain off entirely.
If, in fact the bolts thread into a deck fitting rather tha
;} _filtered #yiv4571028736 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in
1.0in;}#yiv4571028736 div.yiv4571028736WordSection1 {}#yiv4571028736 Any chance
that the Turks Head is moving? .. or that someone is not moving it just for
fun? From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Bruce
Wh
(cruising) and 36 inch
(racing) wheels. If I don't put the wheel on with the correct side forward, it
is always off a spoke or so.
Could someone be messing with you?
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Jan 24, 2018 12:40 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"
wrote:
T
nk I'd be taking all apart thinking I had a major issue - How
long would I have been chasing that gremlin? :0
Now to verify the symptoms...
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
C
I recently moved from Novamar (brokerage recommended by my broker) to Boat U.S.
I have had excellent experience with Boat U.S. over the last 20 years, and
after Hurricane Irma got us concerned last year, I vowed to re-shop the
insurance this year and go with a more "known" market. Boat U.S. wa
Hello all,
I have a water tank inspection cap that is leaking when the tank is full, and
the DPO thought it a good idea to apply silicone sealer to all the o-rings on
all 5 caps> He also applied silicone sealer to nearly every exterior nut, bolt
and screw, but that's another story. Ugh...
Here
Hello All,
Given the discussion that came up the other day regarding boat documentation,
you may want to see the link below posted by Boat U.S.
Boat Documentation Requirements - BoatUS Graphics
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Boat Documentation Requirements - BoatUS Graphics
F
Hello all,
First, thanks to Eric for pointing out a CRITICAL provision in the new Boat
U.S. policies now issued by Geico.
I read my new policy (which has only been in force since February 2nd) and
found the following provision:
"We will pay the reasonable cost of repairs and replacements, in a
I agree with Joel.
The Agreed Value says that everyone's agreed as to the payment in the event of
a total loss.
I'm looking at the declarations page from Boat U.S. right now, and it says
nothing about depreciation in the case of repairs (for less than a total loss).
That is buried down in
) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Feb 9, 2018, at 1:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
wrote:
I agree with Joel.
The Agreed Value says that everyone's agreed as to the payment in the event of
a total loss.
I'm looking at the declarations page from Boat U.S. right no
Just be careful it's Spar Varnish and not Polyurethane. Spar Varnish retains
more flexibility so withstand the heat swings of being exposed outside.
Caution is advised though - I'm no expert! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: William Hall via CnC-List
I go in & out of John's Pass most weekends, and saw the boat laying on its side
on Saturday. Very sad.
There's a few things I've learned from the local reports, however.
1). The couple was relying on charts to identify the bouys. That doesn't
here. They move the markers in the pass some
I never had much luck with cellulose sponges. For me, the natural sponges work
much better.
Just my $.02 worth, Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Eac
The other thing we found out when we did our windows was that the Plexus that
had been used to install the original windows was so hard and tightly bonded to
the fiberglass that it made a fine substrate to adhere to using the 3M VHB
tape. Thus, the complaints others have mentioned about having
not happen in a vacuum and some other event will more than
likely befall them again if they do not take the time to gain some experience
first.
David F. Risch1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
From: CnC-List on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 8:01 AM
To: cn
What is the structure of your pedestal? Does the shift cable go through the
pedestal itself, or through stainless tubes running down the outside of the
pedestal and through the pedestal feet? It will make a huge difference.
A photo link would be helpful.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce Whitmore
1994
Not only explained simply, it's memorable.
Thanks Josh,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery power
First, I complete
Thanks Bill, that's a good insight. Just keeping gum out of the generator
would be a big win in my opinion.
We'll be adding solar to the bimini sometime in the future (probably late this
year or early next year), but down here in Florida, if we're out cruising and
not at a dock (the transient s
Hello all,
After striking out at our local RV store and online searches, I called Kracor
tanks. They told me in no uncertain terms they only work with boat
manufacturers, not individuals. They tried to tell me to call C&C. Finally I
got connected with someone back in the shop who directed me
Hello all,
I am considering replacing our sunbrella bimini with a hard top version to make
it so that we won't have to replace it again (at least not in my boat ownership
lifetime) and to provide a smooth base for mounting semi-flexible solar panels.
Have any of you done this yourself?
I found
Hi Josh,
Just curious, what batteries do you have in your bank, and where are they
mounted?
Am I right to presume that having more charge capacity would result in shorter
battery life?
Just trying to size my eventual solar panel purchase.
Thanks! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm.
I'd kind of disagree...
Technically, boat didn't depreciate very much. It inflation that's taking down
the value of today's dollars.
Depreciation is the reduction in $ value over time, and from a tax writeoff
perspective, a $20,000 asset owned by a business would be written off over a
specified
Hello all,
I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+. Does anyone know what type of varnish,
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior
woodwork? I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table,
.Peregrine was done that
way before I got her and in the five years I had her the finish still looked
terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with vinegar and water every now
and then.
AndyFormerly: C&C 40Peregrine
Now: Baltic 47Masquerade
On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore
I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing the
sacrificial anode in boat water heaters.
Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not hooked up
(though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the water tanks were bone
dry. I think it had been
Hello all,
I put on "x" shaped o-rings from McMaster Carr, and lubricated them with teflon
grease similar to the Super Lube just mentioned, which I highly recommend. In
our case, it is teflon grease sold by local pool stores for lubricating pool
equipment o-rings. I believe it is also food g
Hello,
Interestingly, we have teak decking in the cockpit on our 1994 C&C 37/40+.
When we had it refinished (including re-caulking), the guy who did it used SIS
440. More info can be found here:
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=132018488074&category=10035&pm=
Hello all,
I have historically had very good experience with PoliGlow in the Chicago area
- 16 years, as a matter of fact. That said, for some reason here in Florida,
people swear at the stuff (rather than swearing by it). They say it yellows
and is nearly impossible to remove. I don't know
I had a similar issue on my Yanmar 3JH2E, and finally realized that the gauge
had been added on (though it may have been original equipment from C&C, it was
not standard Yanmar equipment). I found that the temperature buzzer sensor
screwed directly into the engine but the gauge sensor was teed
Hello all,
I did a propane leak-down test recently, and in addition to replacing the
pigtail from a relatively new regulator to the tank, I decided to replace the
hose to the solenoid, and the solenoid itself (the old one was functioning but
was quite rusty).
After replacing the solenoid, on ene
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+. We've owned the boat for about a year. The
halyards are badly faded from the sun, and we noticed an area where the core is
showing at the eye splice around the shackles. The current halyards are
Sta-Set X.
We don't race, so super high-tech line is unneces
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