I can't say I've ever seen, nor heard of butyl rubber in a tube.
Just FYI,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Tom Jacobs via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com>
Cc: Tom Jacobs <t...@yankeecreek.camp>; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
Dave
Did the same on our 37 Amazing Grace about five years ago. Used new screws, no
bolts. Invested time in digging out the minor amount of open weak wood. There
was no rot but around the screws has some gaps and would not have held the
screws with out solid filling. After filling with epoxy leveled the surface
better than original to allow a consistent fill of sealant. I think we used
butyl rubber from a tube. Still working in San Diego, no leaks.
Sent from my iPhone
972-849-4730
On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com> wrote:
So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and
experiences here.
I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am
now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch
that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch
used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14
stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting.
Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years
The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws
and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my
overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the
v-berth.
So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done?
Best,Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
