The only problem with a check valve is that it reduces the flow rate.
If you plan to use a check valve - as many of us, including me, do -
just adjust your pump size accordingly.
Same goes for how big a column of water you're pushing (ie: hose diameter)
Same goes for how high you're pushing that
I must be messing up cause I have a check valve. Without it, all the water
that is pushed into the hose above the pump drains right back into the sump
once the pump turns off. With an auto sensing pump it would pump all the
time.
I did up size the discharge hose and check valve so that they woul
FYI, an auto mechanics trick to find these problems?
Use a car jumper cable and alligator clip between negative battery and engine
ground, or between positive source and starter solinoid, same as what you find.
If you improve starting, clean connections or replace cable. Whatever it takes.
Ch
Key word here is "powerboater". Rhymes with pooterhead, dipwad, turdball,
a$$hole, and s&%thead.
Wanna know how I really feel about them?
Dennis C.
>
> From: Wally Bryant
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 8:55 PM
>Subject: Stus-L
Talk to you Wednesday. Thanks.
: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
Derek Leck : : Account Manager
METZGERS : : www.metzgers.com
419.861.8611 x4824 : : fax: 419.861.3299
Get Involved!
http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
On Aug 12, 2013, at 7:43 PM, "Colin Kilg
UmmThe last time I was paying attention, three short blasts on the horn
means 'I'm Backing Up' which is probably not what the big powerboater
meant to say as he motored away...
--
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www.wbryant.com
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Thanks all, I'm going to go with 2/3rds back to start. In flat water at least,
I think I need more weather helm.
Tim
On Aug 12, 2013, at 8:00 PM, "Jake Brodersen" wrote:
> Tim,
>
> I have two ¾” blocks behind my mast and I think one forward of it. The last
> time I checked, I had 12” of m
Maybe you could pull the hose up to the deck where it comes through the hull
and make a loop. This might break the siphon. My discharges are just below
shear.
Wild Bill
C&C 39
Original message
From: Steven Winks
Date: 08/12/2013 9:15 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.
Steven,
On my 37+, the discharge points are a few inches above the waterline, but the
hoses leading to them loop up well above the waterline to make sure no water
can come back in when the back of the boat is heavy.
Check your hoses and make sure they go upwards.
Also, I have, in the past, u
Hi. I have a 34+ and had an unusual thing happen this morning while at anchor.
I woke to the sound of my electric bilge pump cycling on and off. The bilge was
full of water. I turned the pump on to drain the bilge and it filled up again
once the switch was selected to off. I had the same result
Took me a while but that's funny stuff.
: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
Derek Leck : : Account Manager
METZGERS : : www.metzgers.com
419.861.8611 x4824 : : fax: 419.861.3299
Get Involved!
http://www.metzgers.com/social-media
On Aug 12, 2013, at 7:40 PM, "C
Tim,
I have two ¾ blocks behind my mast and I think one forward of it. The last
time I checked, I had 12 of mast rake. I have been very happy with this
setup. I havent moved the butt of the mast in many years. It seems to
work for me. Less mast rake will give you less weather helm, if t
Keith,
That is a very interesting way to approach this task. I find that a quick
look into the locker is quicker. Getting down below past the main trimmer
and removing the steps can sometimes take a bit of time. I don't think I
can see the shaft from the front of the engine. I have a zinc on m
Happy to chat.
Let's talk rather than type. Maybe Wednesday? (I'm tied up today and tomorrow)
My number is 416-315-4884 and a better email for me is c...@sailbojangles.ca.
Cheers
Colin
On 8/12/13, Derek Leck wrote:
> Greetings Colin,
>
> Doing a bit of research on my C & C 33’ Mark II keel s
Imagine the headache this must cause the poor IT admins at Hormel!
Cheers
Colin
On 8/12/13, Stu wrote:
>
> Please, please when replying to an email and the subject line contains the
> word [SPAM] delete the word. Some member's email programs will reject the
> email just because of the word [SP
Thanks Martin
Cable deflection is good for me and I'll use 1/4 to 3/8. that is what I
was after. Last time I looked at the chain drive under the compass things
looked fine so I just dopped some new lube oil on the sprocket...engine oil
10W 30 seems to have worked fine there but I will check defl
I am happy with my Flex-o-fold geared two blade folder. Gave up a Martec non
geared because I was tired of having to center the shaft every time. If you
have plenty of money, I would go with a three blade feathering prop, as I think
it has less drag than the folder, plus you would get more speed
Thanks - that's what I thought I had last year, but this year I have a
(very new-looking) single large block ahead of the mast...
Tim
On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 4:39 PM, Graham Collins
wrote:
> Same. Small block ahead and small block behind.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>
>
Listers,
Sorry it's been taking me too long to reply -- work's been kicking my
butt the last few days, and I'm only now catching up on emails.
Initially, I thought the new AC was going to be a smash -- high speed…
danger… like NASCAR for sailors. But, after watching quite a bit
Racing and sailing. Not so much motoring.I need less drag and more knots :-)
Same. Small block ahead and small block behind.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-08-12 5:32 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
Centered.
Joel Aronson
On Aug 12, 2013, at 4:28 PM, Tim Goodyear wrote:
Particularly to all you 35-3 owners out there, where do you have your mast base
i
Centered.
Joel Aronson
On Aug 12, 2013, at 4:28 PM, Tim Goodyear wrote:
> Particularly to all you 35-3 owners out there, where do you have your mast
> base in your step plate? Mine has a block ahead of the mast (so the mast is
> in the rearmost position possible). I can't remember where it
Particularly to all you 35-3 owners out there, where do you have your mast
base in your step plate? Mine has a block ahead of the mast (so the mast
is in the rearmost position possible). I can't remember where it was last
year and the yard removed and re-stepped it, so I didn't place any
reminder
Suggest a geared 2-blade so that the blades move together whether so that when
folded, they both fold.
I changed to a folder 2 years ago and ended up with a Gori racing prop since
its resistance to flow when sailing
was basically indistinguishable from the resistance of the hull alone. They
ha
Sam,
How do you plan to use the prop? Racing, cruising, or a mix, do you expect to
motor a significant amount of time, and do you expect to motor into strong
headwinds and seas?
Budget?
Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
sam.c
My 26 currently has a 12" x 8" RH, 3 blade, fixed prop. 7/8" shaft. (2GM20F - 13 1/2 hp)It's getting to the stage where I should start looking for a folding or feathering prop.What do I need!I've got room for up to about 14".I'm on a mooring, so reverseing is not a big issue. sam :-) 403-617-6280
Please, please when replying to an email and the subject line contains the
word [SPAM] delete the word. Some member's email programs will reject the
email just because of the word [SPAM] being there.
Stu
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Jake,
Rather than crawling in to the sail locker, another option is to remove
the steps/engine cover.
I have a shaft zinc on the inside of the hull, presumably so the shaft
cannot get ejected out the bottom.
But the side benefit is that a large sharpie mark on that zinc is
visible from the *fro
Greetings Colin,
Doing a bit of research on my C & C 33’ Mark II keel sump and it sounds like
you are the man to talk to.
Any info you have on the subject would be appreciated.
Thanks
Derek
419-350-3006
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Derek Leck :
For anyone wanting to search the email archives for a certain subject – go to
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Search the Email Discussion List Archives
Enter your search word in the box and hit “GO”
If you want to search the Photo Album for a certain thing (
IMHO the ¾ ton special does not gain much performance for all the creature
comforts it gives up. Kind of a specialized boat. For $5K though – one hell of
a deal if the boat is in good shape.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
I think you will find that tightening one cable will tighten both. The only
downside--provided you have enough bite for the nuts on the other side--is
that the alignment of center on the wheel will change, slightly; not a huge
problem.
I tighten the cables so there is very little play, but as Marti
Dwight,
I do not know what Edison prefers or recommends but what I concentrated on is:
Enough tension to be sure the cables will not go slack under any conditions or
rudder position.
Not too much tension to place excess strain/wear on the other steering
components.
If there is excess play and
Martin
I would be interested to know how you decided that you had tensioned the
steering cables enough. I have wiggled myself back to work on adjusting
tension on my cables twice in the past month because after the first
adjustment followed by a day sail I decided that I still had more play at
th
Dennis,
Good advice!
Also, if you have a rod headstay, the CDI will not work.
I recently had a guest aboard who thought he could "hike" by holding on to
the shroud and leaning out. I informed him otherwise!
Joel
On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 1:01 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
> While we're talking about
Add Calypso's cast bronze Edison quadrant to the numbers up list. I removed
the rudder for some repair this July and had the quadrant out to clean and
inspect. After 43 years it looked good as new. I use the flat underside to
match up with the top of Calypso's autopilot tiller arm. The two a
While we're talking about furlers, listers should check their forestay whether
equipped with a furler or not, for freedom in two axes. That is, BOTH ends of
the forestay should have two pins perpendicular to each other. This is usually
accomplished with a toggle.
The forestay is particularly
Jake,
I don't have any (useful) pictures of inside the bilge sump, but have some
of the external work. I've included a link below - please let me know if
you have any issues accessing it.
Derek,
My crack was much smaller than yours (I convinced myself it was paint-only
for a couple of years), and
Yep, I've worked on several Yanmars. Same thing. Two owners had yard replace
starter. Problem persisted. I fixed it for an hour's time.
Pull apart the harness and Tefgel all the pins, clean and TefGel all the engine
wires and battery cables. Definitely clean both ends of the wire from star
I have used both the CDI (on a Macgregory 26S and a Catalina 25) and the Harken
on our C&C25. The CDI unit will work but Harken is far easier to use especially
in high winds.
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This is the infamous Yanmar click.
It happens because Yanmar used cheap wiring on an otherwise good engine. If you
poke around on the Internet, you can find lots of pages with people addressing
it.
On my 2GM20F, it was primarily a crappy fuse box that was positioned near the
air filter. Eventu
Anything but a Facnor.
My choice would be a Harken but I'm biased. My buddy and I install Harkens.
If you want inexpensive, look on eBay. There may be used ones available. I
routinely sell old furlers on eBay. I have an old, old CDI I haven't gotten
around to reconditioning and listing yet.
Saw that one too and, as i just bought out my ex wife for her share of my 33,
it made me a bit ill to see. On the other hand, it's a 3/4 ton version which
means that it has a minimallist interior and odd ball things like double fore
hatch and tiller steering.
On Aug 9, 2013, at 7:09 PM, "djhau
I had this problem recently with my Universal M4-30 and simply removing the ground cables from the engine, cleaning terminals and reconnecting them solved the problem. Dave
David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT
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Directions say to inspect for holes and then pour water in up to the brim.
If the water stays them you know it works. The screen is covered with a
hydrophobic coating which causes the surface tension of water to prevent it
from passing through the screen. Don't get smart and try pressurizing it,
I had the same problem for a couple of seasons. Would always crank eventually, but those first 2 or 3 presses of the button with just a click were not reassuring. I
That makes sense - assuming the filter works as designed. Mine came from the PO
so is at least 10 years old. Hopefully the filters don't have expiry dates!
--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
On Aug 12, 2013, at 9:39, Josh Muckley wrote:
> The directions that came with mine suggest pouri
Have a look at the Alado furlers too, good price, seem pretty well made
and simple to install without taking the mast down. I was going to get
one for my 24' but ended up getting a bigger boat.
Cheers,
Paul.
Orange Crush, C&C27MkII
On 13-08-12 07:47 AM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:
?Allen,
I had a similar problem where I had to punch the start button 6-8 times to get
the starter to crank. Had already replaced the starter button. Finally would
just click and then go dead; not even the buzzer.
Ended up being corrosion inside the sheathing in the battery cables. Cut back
a few inc
I really enjoyed the quality of the engineering when I installed a Selden
Furlex 200 on my MacGregor 26C myself. ~$1250 for the furler and ~$1250
for a new headsail. I do sometimes wonder if a CDI would have been a
better (cheaper) option.
Josh
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Allen, I have a 26.My boat has a ProFurl furler, installed by the previous owner. It good quality. I priced a replacement last year - would have been $1,250 cdn.However, Harken and Furlex have good reputations too.If you do install a furler, remember that your genoa will need a new luff tape (to f
Allen,
For a 26-footer, I'd go with a continuous line furler. No drum and no
loss of performance by having less headsail closer to the deck.
Pricing is much better too.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C77896%7C942632&id=1554666
http://www.defender.com/product
Allen,
A CDI would work fine and they are inexpensive. They are not as robust as
the Harkens, but they are much cheaper.
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis
On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 10:20 AM, Allen White wrote:
> I have a 26 and would like to add a furling head sail. I would love to
> hear
> any s
I have a 26 and would like to add a furling head sail. I would love to hear
any suggestions for a small boat ?
Allen White
'77 C & C 26
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The directions that came with mine suggest pouring 1-2 cups of water in the
bottom of the funnel. This lifts the fuel off the bottom so that it can
get through the filter. If you measure the before and after water, the
difference is the amount that came out of the fuel. There are oil
absorbing b
In the photo you can see the through hull's for depth and knot meter. Bilge
opening is about 3 - 4" below these through hulls and about 1' aft. Water
trickles into the bilge about 8" below the opening which by my estimation is
pretty close to the crack. Marina repaired it once my grinding out
The boom on the 37 has SS lugs that protrude through the bottom of the boom.
6 hrs into an 80 hour race last week the aft most lug sheared. I'm
wondering if others on the list have had a similar problem and what you did
to repair/replace the lug? Another 37 in the area had the boom crack in
the
I have what I think is a Baja filter. I like the idea of filtering the fuel,
but because of its design (maybe mine is old and the design improved) I always
have perhaps a quarter cup of fuel / water / junk left in the filter after
using it. What do you do with these remnants?
--
Jonathan
Indig
I agree with Josh. Filter it and use it. The filter funnel he is referring
to is called the Baja Filter. It is used by Baja racers to filter the
notoriously nasty fuel found down in Mexico. Wal probably has one on the
boat.
The micro screen in the filter prevents liquid water from passing t
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