A. Take a mortgage on your house and call your yard.
B. Look in the Lewmar catalogue and find hatches that match yours. Pry
yours off the deck, fill the old holes and drill new ones, install new
hatches with suitable sealant.
C. Pray for a miracle.
Pick any one. Pick two if you're feeling lucky.
Time to haul the boat before racing season starts.
Has anyone found a substitute for the special grease used to lubricate a
Vari Prop?
Thanks,
Frank Noragon
C&C 38 LF, S/N 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon
___
This List is provided by
Well, with the Digital Yacht's vhf splitter, you can in fact have 1
antenna and utilize the vhf and AIS. The splitter has
some smarts to manage it all. I agree you can't just simply wire the
two to one antenna. Our installation worked
just fine, we were able to talk to the cargo ship which was
A transponder (emitter and receiver) requires it's own antenna, which mean you
cannot use the same as the VHF. This mean a choice to make because two antenna
emitting on VHF channels should be separated by at least 3 feet, and no, the
top of the mast is not that large. For ocean traveling, I dec
We put the digital yacht (with VHF splitter) on the boat we took to
Saint Pierre last year. It was easy to install, worked
well with the Raymarine C80 chart plotter. So, I'd endorse it. When I
put one on my boat, I'll likely go with it.
I believe we got our license within a week, but skipper to
I've had mine for 13 years and love it. It is stiff, but it is really
well behaved. I run mine with a 145 as a mid point between
light air and heavier air. If I were to do it (headsail) again, which I
will be in the near future, I'll go to a 130 or 135 sail.
I have my lines running to the cockp
There are several inexpensive AIS transponders with NMEA 2000 and built in
gps antenna. The Vesper also has wireless. Ignore the first one - NMEA
183 only.
Does anyone have any experience/recommendations:
http://search.defender.com/?Action=9&Ascending=True&SH=QT1haXMgdHJhbnNwb25kZXJ_Qj1haXMgdHJ
Ditto the other comments, the 30-1 rides like its a train on rails. When
I've been dumb enough to try to get the rail in the water I can but it
takes 25-30 knots and flying everything (full main, 135 headsail), which
just makes her slower one reef and a bit of furl and she will pull the
ra
Paul,
The difference between a 24 on a 30 is striking but, on top of that, the C&C 30
is one of the stiffest boat ever constructed by C&C. I suggest that you show
this graph to your wife (taken from the C&c Photo Album) :
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technical/stability.htm
It show that the C&C
Sort of a fire sale...
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Mar 4, 2013, at 4:04 PM, Martin DeYoung wrote:
>> ...cost after 5 years of replacing the ODYSSEY AGM bank at $2600.00.. <
>
> I hear Boeing has some large Li-Ion batteri
> ...cost after 5 years of replacing the ODYSSEY AGM bank at $2600.00.. <
I hear Boeing has some large Li-Ion batteries for sale cheap.
Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle
>>>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2013 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List PROP SIZE, NOW ELECTRIC YACHTS
I wish you were closer. As mentioned before, the 30 is the stiffest boat they
ever built. It is rated at 8000 pounds (really is closer to 9) and has 3600
pounds of lead - the keel starts about 6 inches from the bottom of the hull and
is about 5 or 6 inches thick and goes down to a depth of 5 fee
Maybe I'm envisioning the job a bit differently. I suspect the the
construction of most of the older C&C's is as follows. The rub rail has a
flange on the upper edge. I envision the flange of the rub rail sandwiched
between the deck and hull flange. The toe rail sits on top of the deck. I
Not from BC area, but in a midwestern 20kt wind I had my daughter in law
(non-sailor) on board and granddaughter (4yr old). We had full main and 135 on
and still had the rail out of the water. Both were comfortable and the
grandchild was running back and forth along the rail having a ball.Beli
Just what I was thinking Dwight.from the video, the work doesn't
come from installing the new rub rail, you have to get the old one
offnot a job I would want to tackle casually on our boats.
Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2013/03/04 3:58 PM, dwight veinot wrote:
Is it
It actually goes between the Hull and deck joint, not a job to be taken on lightly. In fact I think it would be easier to change boats. Sam :-)
Is it not an integral part of the deck to hull seal on our C&C's, so a good
job would involve removing the toe rail
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: March 4, 2013
Most of us have rub rails with dings, discoloration etc. Every now and them
someone posts about rub rail replacement.
I've installed rub rail on powerboats and it isn't fun. Especially if you're
going around a small radius.
Just browsing my new Jamestown Distributor catalog and saw the Tessi
Sounds like John Rousmaniere.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Mar 4, 2013, at 12:15 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:
> From Sailnet:
>
> Remember, five things are very important:
>
> • Keep the water on the outside
>
>
>
>From Sailnet:
Remember, five things are very important:
• Keep the water on the outside
• Keep the people on the inside
• Keep the mast pointed up
• Keep the keel pointed down
• Keep the rudder in the boat and steering in good order
Everyt
We use one on my Shields to pull the mast forward when we're going
downwind. Seems to be fast.
On the C&C we can have a blender, not so, on the Shields.
Andy C&C 40
Peregrine
On Mon, Mar 4, 2013 at 12:30 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
> I know, but we like frapilator around here. :)
>
> Touche' has a ded
I know, but we like frapilator around here. :)
Touche' has a dedicated frapilator (fraculator). 5-6 foot piece of StaSet line
with eye on one end and snap shackle on the other.
We like our blenders also. Or is it a blenderator?
Dennis C.
>
> From: Andrew
Unless you're talking about a blender, it's called a fraculator, Dennis.
Really , I don't know what they teach kids in schools these days! :)
anybody want to discuss frapilators?
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> --
> *From:* Andrew Burton
All,
One of my crew is raising funds to go towards children's cancer
research.
Please see:
http://ncc1701a.blogspot.com/2013/03/captains-log-stardate-11317_4.html
If you can find it within your hearts (and your pockets) to help out,
it would be greatly appreciated.
I guess what we do is more what Andrew describes as an outboard sheet. It
doubles as a barber hauler.
We could use the same line as an inhauler by simply clipping the snap shackle
to the sheet and taking it to a cabintop winch.
Speaking of secondary and tertiary sail controls, anybody want t
On racing boats, when the wind is aft of about 50 degrees apparent, the
crew rigs an outboard lead for the jib sheet. Sheeting the jib to a block
on the rail opens up the leech of the jib and reduces twist, allowing the
sail to be eased farther without luffing. This in turn allows the main to
be ea
The barber hauler is used to pull the lead outboard to open up the slot at
the bottom of the main, and to reduce twist in the genoa when you are off
the wind. Just moving the lead block forward on the inboard track leaves
the genoa with too much twist, either overtrimming the bottom or luffing
the
Hmmm...we seem to have 2 different systems/philosophies here.
Hauler A - similar to a spinnaker twing. Uses a block attached to toe rail and
a block, ring, carabiner, spring clip, (or equivalent) clipped onto the
jibsheet between the jib lead and the clew. Haul line runs inside lifelines.
OK guys, thanks for all the replies.
I guess barber haulers are pretty much a standard setup. I thought someone
might have a system that I hadn't thought of, but seems this is simple stuff
and most everyone does the same thing.
I'll get the splicing wand out!
Sam :-)
C&C 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake
I¹m a slow learner, I guess, but two years ago I finally realized that if I
just store the Lifesling in the cockpit locker while I¹m not using the boat,
it cuts down on UV deterioration considerably. I have a new case from West
Marine which I expect to last a long time.
Hauler:
We have used a snat
Hello Listers,I need to replace several hatches on my 30MKII. Any suggestions,
tips, or recommendations regarding how best to go about this would be greatly
appreciated. thanks, Pete W. siren songc&c30MKII
__
I just got my new Defender catalog and couldn't find lifesling listed - they
have one which looks the same, but is Switlok. Something I don't know?
Also no Garmin? Something else I don't know?
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Dennis C.
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, Ma
On our 30, we use the spinnaker twing setup for a barber hauler. The twings are
dinghy snatch blocks at the end of a 1/4 inch line which is run through a block
attached to the toe rail, then back to a cam cleat near the lifeline gate.
Placing them back further means someone in the cockpit can co
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.htm?group=186
Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Cornucopia WI
On Sun, Mar 3, 2013 at 7:32 PM, John and Maryann Read wrote:
> The case for our Lifesling overboard rescue system has finally succumbed to
> the effects of UV and is literally disi
Dennis,
That looks like the same setup I use for the tweakers on my spinnaker,
except we have a small block on the end that rides on the spinnaker sheet,
instead of a shackle. Works great.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailt
Jim
I don't get what that does for performance, can you explain please. Looks
like you have room to do the same thing with the jib sheet alone.
I am not well informed on Barber Hauling at all but some how I thought it
was used to bring the clew inboard when the lead point was on the toe ra
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