Thanks for the photos. Enjoyed seeing the gang again.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: broo...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 12:38:19 PM
Subject: Stus-List Photos from the Mystic Rendevous.
Slow bu
The rudder stock on my 38 was bent during a hard grounding in a thunderstorm
in 2004. Actually it was OK until TowBoat US pulled me over the shoal
instead of pulling me out the way I had come in. Insurance authorized the
yard to heat and straighten the rudder shaft (BIG Mistake!) and reglass the
to
Well, that's as close as possible to "glass mat cloth", so you're off the
hook. That mat is stitched to a biaxial cloth, so there is no binder in the
mat. I stand somewhat corrected.
On 19 October 2012 16:18, Robert Abbott wrote:
> Wally et al:
>
> You are way over my head from a technical viewp
No? How about the time I took a Jabsco toilet on a flight as checked
baggage? It is oversize, turns out... the reaction from the woman
running the x-ray machine was classic, she did not see the box when it
went in but figured out what it was from the screen. This was however
in the era when
Hi Bob,
Will you refresh us on the bottom paint details?
Manufacturer, mix name, product number, etc. And maybe speculate why
it is not available in Canada...
I don't need to know about the toilet :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
lower east side, Vancouver Island
At 04:01 PM 19/
Wally et al:
You are way over my head from a technical viewpoint on the term I used
'glass mat cloth'. The material I used to wrap my keel keel joint was
this stuff and because it said it was compatible with 'resin':...so I
soaked it in West System Resin.
http://www.tapplastics.com/product/
On 2012/10/19 6:57 PM, Graham Collins wrote:
>Bob, I hope you aren't taking my joke seriously, I'm not really
accusing you of that! You should have told us earlier, I had visitors
from the states last week and they owe me one since I once took a non
low-flow toilet across the border for th
Easier to explain the lip balm to the wife than the KY!
Joel Aronson
On Oct 19, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Chuck S wrote:
When I winterize the engine, the last thing I do is remove the raw water
impeller, and put the pump back together without an impeller. That gets
put into a zip lock bag with the ke
Gary,
My 3DL turned into a pile of strings last year at Screwpile. My shore crew
scoured Walmart and drug stores during the day to buy clear duct tape for
our daily regime of repair. We kept our #1 together, although it shed mylar
and duct tape every time we tacked. We still won the regatta.
Dennis,
My #2 is 142%. It's darn near a #1. We don't point well with it, due to
the sheeting angle. It spends most of its time in my garage. It hasn't
been flown in about 5 years.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
"Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc
Jim,
You might want to contact Greg Cutter. He raced a 30-2 on the Chesapeake.
He may still be monitoring this list. If not, I can provide his email
off-list.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
"Midnight Mistress
Hampton VA
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@c
When I winterize the engine, the last thing I do is remove the raw water
impeller, and put the pump back together without an impeller. That gets put
into a zip lock bag with the key for the engine. In the spring, I swap the
impeller with a spare and they last several years and when either looks
Bob, I hope you aren't taking my joke seriously, I'm not really accusing
you of that! You should have told us earlier, I had visitors from the
states last week and they owe me one since I once took a non low-flow
toilet across the border for them (long story).
And heck, if you can carry it in
Dwight:
I don't think that C&C made bad rudders...but most of our boats are
old and age does have an effect on them. The most common problem is having
the rudder collect water inside as the result of cracks or most likely the
top where the shaft goes in and it is not permanently sealed
Calamari. Different shape.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2012-10-19, at 18:09, RAYMOND SHIBE wrote:
The damn rubber is a bit chewy though.
On Fri, Oct 19, 2012 at 4:53 PM, Rich C&C wrote:
> Ray: Add some garlic and sautee with mushrooms. They are really good!
>
> Rich
>
> -Orig
You have to pound it, like abalone...
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Oct 19, 2012, at 4:09 PM, RAYMOND SHIBE wrote:
> The damn rubber is a bit chewy though.
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 19, 2012 at 4:53 PM, Rich C&C wrote:
>
>> Ray:
The damn rubber is a bit chewy though.
On Fri, Oct 19, 2012 at 4:53 PM, Rich C&C wrote:
Ray: Add some garlic and sautee with mushrooms. They are really good!
Rich
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
RAYMOND SHIBE
Sent: October 19, 2
I don't believe that flexibility has much to do with impeller performance. Once
it's inside the pump it HAS to conform to the internal volume of the casing or
break apart and the pump works solely on volume change for performance.
Assuming clearances are in spec.
When impellers fail, their blade
Late in 2009, my 3DL genoa decided to unravel. It was built in 2001, so we got
plenty of service out of it. But, when it went, it was GONE! It disintegrated
into a pile of strings My sailmaker sewed it together (kind of) for the
time it took to make a new one. I chose an advanced dacron clot
Ray: Add some garlic and sautee with mushrooms. They are really good!
Rich
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RAYMOND SHIBE
Sent: October 19, 2012 17:44
To: CnC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Miscellaneous -impeller
David,
My impellers live in a
Steve,
My 26 is more tender than your 34 - It's real windy (technical term) on Ghost
Lake.
When I renewed my sails about 4 seasons ago I moved from a 155 to a 135.
I've never regretted it!
I hardly ever need to furl it down and regularly exceed theoretical hull speed.
Sure on the few occasions th
David,
My impellers live in a used mayonnaise jar with a half cup or so of
olive oil. I remove the impellers from the pump
so they are not scrunched up over the winter. FYI, I find it easier to
remove the impeller
after the pump is off the engine. After which I put the impeller into
the olive o
Challenge has 4 types of Dacron sailcloth: Performance Cruise; High Modulus;
High Aspect and Marblehead - in that order of quality. So High Aspect is 2nd
best behind Marblehead. After that you get into laminates.
http://www.macksails.com/sailclth.htm
A bit more info!
sam :-)
C&C 26 Liquorice
G
I don't get it...did C&C make bad rudders or what??? Seems it costs a lot to
get a new one made...I haven't had such a problem yet on any C&C I have
owned and I hope it stays that way...but the rudder on my 1974 C&C 35 is
nearly ready to apply for the pension...no obvious problems yet as far as I
c
Alex,
Had replace a rudder in 2010 for "Stinky Dog" a 1984 C&C 41. South Shore
Yachts
built one from sratch. No complaints.
It was the better part of $7000.00 including brokerage fees
and shipping to New Jersey. Shipping would probably be less to Toronto
and no brokerage costs.
Ray Shibe
Has
Bev
I guess you know that the pros at Haarstick have a very good rep for making
fast sails for C&C boats.but I understand your point because when I got my
new main and 135 I also knew that but I went with Doyle Sails who had a
local loft and I knew the guy who would be building my sail from pan
Well, I like the term "performance cruiser". we don't do any racing but still
want our sails to look nice or should I say perform well. Just as important I
don't want to be constantly changing the headsail. That is too much work for
our goals. Any other suggestions on which sailmakers to co
Hi Alex,
Not yet, but will have to in few years. Check fastcomposites.ca. They are in
Ottawa. They have rebuilt lots of C&C rudders.
Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche
C&C 38-3 #076
Sail 54988
Envoyé par Yahoo! Mail (sur Android)
From: Ron Casciato ;
To: ;
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/repla
I have to chime in here in response... I have a 155% and a Lake Michigan
PHRF certificate, and I was rated at "base". LMPHRF assumes a 155%, see
document at link:
http://www.lmphrf.org/Rules_Regulations/Regulations_and_Rule.pdf
I also have a "two sail" setup with a #1 of 155% and a #3 of 95%;
HI Alex:
I recently had an earlier post on this topic...contact me off line
for details. Depending on what you actually need, you may want to have
someone skilled in foils do this. You definitely affect the performance of
your boat with such a project.
Good luck.
Ron Casciato
Imprompt
Has anyone on the list replaced or re-built their rudder?
ALEX GIANNELIA
CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Some folks at our club have used a similar setup but they do it without any
hose disconnection. They have a bucket with a hose at the bottom to catch
the exhaust and route it back externally to the raw water intake with a
length of hose with a valve attached to a short section of piping with a
toil
I also carry a furling 135 on the Chesapeake. When the wind drops below 5
knots I turn on the engine. My first move is to reef the main at around
17-18 apparent if close-hauled. Next is to do a partial furl. It rarely
blows over 20, so it works for me.
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annnapolis
On Fri,
The 135% furling genoa is a compromise at best for those of us who want to
carry only one headsail and who no longer want to do sail changes. We are
the performance cruisers.
On my boat when I need a 110%, I furl my 135 to 110% which I have marked
along the foot but I don't like the look of the s
Yes but use a water-based lube...KY etc...(Let the jokes start here). I could
be wrong but I fear petroleum based products may adversely affect rubber.
1981 40-2
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 cell
-Original Message-
From: Rick Bras
I tend to agree with Walt. A very successful racer friend of mine told me you
never change down to a #2, you will always go to the #3. That seems to be true
at least 80% of the time.
I run a 3 sail program but rarely use the #2. I have 155, 125, 95. However,
because wind force increases w
I think I do something different than most people... I have an Atomic 4
gas engine, but would not be afraid to try this with a small diesel; this
process ensures that all the raw water passages are flushed with antifreeze.
- Rig up a suction hose to the raw water pump. I use a short section
For a hull/keel joint, I'd use 2-3 overlapping layers of 4" bi-axial glass tape.
Dennis C.
>
> From: Jim Watts
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 9:35 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel/Hull join
>
>
>Just for clarification, there is no
If you sail and are going to race on Lake Michigan -- at least down near
Chicago, which is where we are -- you have to deal with big winds in the Spring
and Fall with the doldrums in between. We now sail a C&C 110, but used to own a
C&C 32, on which we carried a furling 150 to span the wind rang
Slow but sure I finally got the photos from the Mystic Rendevous uploaded to
Photobucket. You can paste the attached address and it should take you
directly to the "Album". I have to tell you that while I was trying to work
this out I found myself accidentally at another album with a (sort
I has a similar experience a couple of months ago. My Universal M35B was out
of the boat for replacement of a broken motor mount. When the engine was
started at launch, no water came out of the exhaust.
We started checking the usual suspects to diagnose the problem and finally
determined there
I'll mail you some:).
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2012-10-19, at 12:57, Joel Aronson wrote:
I recommend red sauce next time. If they are going to attach to your boat you
should at least get a meal out of them!
Joel
On Fri, Oct 19, 2012 at 11:55 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:
> The prayer
you wrote:
Just for clarification, there is no such thing as "glass mat cloth".
Maybe he was referring to Knytex X-Cloth. I seem to recall that the mat
that's sewn into the fabric isn't styrene bonded, but can't verify that
on-line at the moment.
Wal
_
I'm paranoid but I pull the thermostat before I run the antifreeze through (put
it on my keychain to remember it next spring, along with the old impeller and
the knotmeter paddle throughhull).
I winterize on a cradle and don't run the engine long enough to warm it up...
and worry that some inter
The prayers failed miserably this year. I had about an 18" ball of mussels on
the shaft and prop which largely duds appeared when I finally flashed up the
engine. Then they headed for your boat.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2012-10-19, at 12:36, Robert Abbott wrote:
On 2012/10/19 10
Perhaps I should have mentioned that I have a Universal M4-30 engine and the
raw water pump is right in front of me when I open the engine compartment
while the thru hull is a much longer reach and harder to work at. Also my
engine is always cooled by an internal antifreeze mix so when I do the
wi
A good friend, who has a boat repair service, has been working on the Cal 27
belonging to an acquaintance at the club. Clean the decks, buff the topsides
and apply New Glass, refinish the mast with white Imron, sand, fair, and
repaint the bottom. The boat was looking really nice and ready for relau
Just make sure it's not this guy:
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=72898#entry3897795
He is supposedly back in BC...
On 19 October 2012 07:47, Jack Brennan wrote:
> A sail loft in British Columbia called Precision Sail Loft is offering
> great online prices on new sails for
Thats the general idea. I have a bucket with a fitting and hose attached
near bottom edge. The hose fits inside the raw water hose taken off the
seacock. I set the bucket on the quarter berth, fill it up and start the
engine. Id be surprised if this took more than a minute but in any case
wait fo
Had a little lesson about impellers. When Evangeline was new to me I had no
idea how long the impeller was in place; the water flow looked iffy although
there were no cooling problems. (Yanmar 3GM30). Took the impeller out and it
seemed fine but replaced it anyway and got markedly better flow volum
I do the same as Dwight for both the engine antifreeze and the batteries.
Last Fall, the boat next to me in the yard did it a slightly different
way but needed two people.one guy stayed in the cockpit to
/start/stop the engine while the other guy crawled into the locker and
poured the 50/5
Hi James, I too am on the hunt for some new sails and cannot advise but can
only tell you the tack I am taking:
Where I sail on the great lakes (Georgian Bay) we generally have good
prevailing winds, occasionally turning up into unpleasant and even difficult
due to short wave periods on the GL.
I
On 2012/10/19 10:31 AM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:
Bob
The growth on the prop was likely because yoru boat never leaves the
mooring :)
Mike:
Perhaps you are correct.I need to use my boat more oftenI had it
off the mooring exactly 120 times this season plus the times my brother
used it.
I
I believe it is a good idea to flush the engine with fresh water until it
comes to normal operating temperature before adding the antifreeze mix
I use
Prestone concentrate diluted 50/50 and one 4 L container of Prestone does 2
years and I have enough to pour some into my electric marine toilet and
Best to use low tox propylene glycol based engine antifreeze. The alcohol in
"plumbing" antifreeze is hard on rubber parts, and
provides no lubrication.
Same goes for the head. The Wilcox Crittenden literature specifically advises
against using alcohol based antifreeze in their
heads.
Steve Thom
That does sound more like the cruising cloth with tighter weave.Quite frankly,
for casual racers, I still think it would do well. Seems to me, for many
racing folks, there's more time to be saved by practicing tacks, jibes and
roundings than by fancy sail cloth.That said, the cloth does indeed
I helped a friend of mine bring a new to him Cal 25 from Munro Michigan to Port
Stanley last year.
He had a borrowed Mercury outboard which he freshened up with spark plugs, raw
water impeller, and I don't remember what else.
He also tested it out both in a barrel and on the boat when we got over
Sebastien,
I have the same engine, and here are the steps I was taught:
-Purchase 1 gallons of "pink" (general with no corrosion inhibitors)
and one gallon of "blue or purple" anti freeze with corrosion inhibitors.
-Find the "winterizing hose" and have it ready.
-Close th
I'll be winterizing my 2GM20F for the first time tomorrow (saturday) and would
like some advices on the practical way to fill up the raw water circuit with
antifreeze. I plan on detaching the intake tube of the raw water circuit from
the seacock and putting it in a bucket filled with antifreeze
A good friend of mine lost his year-old impeller on the way out of the harbor
this summer, which generated a lot of discussion on the boat I race on. Of the
three boat owners on the crew, two change impellers every spring and one
changes them every 3-5 years. We all moor in the Chicago harbor sy
A sail loft in British Columbia called Precision Sail Loft is offering great
online prices on new sails for many brands of boats, including C&Cs, using
Challenge sailcloth and Bainbridge hardware.
Any listers have opinions of the quality of their sails? I can't find
comments positive or negati
Thanks for your comment Ron, I've investigated a bit more the proposed dacron.
Here's what I got.
The cloth quoted by Haarstick as VF dacron is High Aspect Fiber 104 from
Challenge Sailcloth. Challenge website indicates: "They use the highest count
of the finest yarns. Such fine weaves have m
This is an interesting topic as there are many variables that may affect the
condition of the impeller. My Yanmar 3QM30 engine typically accumulates a
maximum of 100 hours of operation in a sailing season. On most daily
outings, the engine runs approximately 15 minutes at each end of the
excursion.
Bob
The growth on the prop was likely because yoru boat never leaves the
mooring :)
Will be interesting to see bottom of Nut Case next week. We have used
VC Offshore prev two Fall seasons in Halifax and Micron CSC this year -
judging from rudder the micron seems better suited for NW Arm
Last ra
Spend a few bucks and change the impeller with each annual service, the few
dollars that it cost will save you grief & money in the end. A senior
Yanmar factory tech told me that after a year of two the rubber blades on the
impeller will "set" and will decrease in efficiency due to fatigue i
I don't have the experience of Rich but I would also lean in that direction.
I've changed mine for the first time this summer after 3 years. The impeller
looked in perfect condition (no cracks and blades were as flexible as a new
one). I kept the old one as a spare and now feel confident that
Leslie, yes, please send me pictures off list. I suspected that is what it
was but there is no attachment point overhead or up on deck.
Steve
C&C 32
Toronto
On Thu, Oct 18, 2012 at 3:52 PM, Leslie Paal wrote:
> That is the attachment point for the rod extension of the babystay,
> inside. There
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