Perhaps I should have mentioned that I have a Universal M4-30 engine and the
raw water pump is right in front of me when I open the engine compartment
while the thru hull is a much longer reach and harder to work at.  Also my
engine is always cooled by an internal antifreeze mix so when I do the
winterizing I am effectively flushing the raw water pump and the heat
exchanger and the muffler and exhaust piping.  I always check and replace if
necessary the pencil zinc anode in the heat exchanger as part of my
winterization.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: October 19, 2012 12:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F

 

I believe it is a good idea to flush the engine with fresh water until it
comes to normal operating temperature before adding the antifreeze mix…I use
Prestone concentrate diluted 50/50 and one 4 L container of Prestone does 2
years and I have enough to pour some into my electric marine toilet and that
keeps it happy all winter.  I find it easier to disconnect the inlet hose at
the pump and attach another hose which I had made up and carry specifically
for winterizing and that hose goes into a bucket supplied with fresh water,
sometimes that’s how I empty my potable water tanks and I keep it supplied
while the engine is running.  After flushing stop the engine, put your
antfreeze mix in the bucket, go to the consol, start the engine and watch
for the coloured stuff to come out the exhaust.  Give it 5 or 10 seconds and
stop. I leave the hose attached all winter and held with the open end high
and some antifreeze mix in that part of the hose.  I’ll be needing the hose
again in spring to start up and flush with fresh water while I am doing my
prelaunch checks so it might as well stay connected.  No need to waste
antifreeze by pumping it for a long time through the system and out…it’s
toxic stuff so try to contain it, probably some yards require that.   

 

One other thing to attend to is your batteries.  This is what I do and I
leave my batteries on board all winter long here in Nova Scotia where we can
have some long cold spells, below -10C for example and some winters to -20C
so don’t plan to move here.

 

Check the fluid level in each cell, make sure it is above the plates and if
not top up with distilled water, do not tap use water.  Fully charge the
batteries with a small automotive charger…a 2 amp charge for 24 hours should
be adequate.

Disconnect the positive cable and wait until spring.  If your batteries
don’t survive the winter holding charge you probably needed to replace it
anyway because it would not have been a reliable battery.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pat
Nevitt
Sent: October 19, 2012 12:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F

 

Sebastien,

I have the same engine, and here are the steps I was taught:

*         Purchase 1 gallons of “pink” (general with no corrosion
inhibitors) and one gallon of “blue or purple” anti freeze with corrosion
inhibitors.  
*         Find the “winterizing hose” and have it ready.
*         Close the raw water thru hull in the engine compartment, and
loosen the clamps on the hose at the thru hull.
*         Remove the hose from the thru hull barb.  Attach the “winterizing
hose“, on the barb and place the other end in a 2 gallon bucket.
*         Pour 1 gallon of pink antifreeze into the bucket.  Have ready the
blue or purple.
*         Start the engine, and monitor the antifreeze level in the bucket.

*         Right when it is about to get to the bottom, add the entire gallon
of blue or purple into the bucket.
*         Allow the engine to digest all of it to the bottom of the bucket,
and right before sucking air, shut down the engine. 
*         Replace the hoses and re-tighten the hose clamps.

I have someone else run the engine while I do the hose/bucket part. It takes
about a minute to run the stuff out of the bucket.  It isn't very fast.

 

Pat

 

On Fri, Oct 19, 2012 at 10:53 AM, Sébastien Lemieux <s.lemi...@umontreal.ca>
wrote:

I'll be winterizing my 2GM20F for the first time tomorrow (saturday) and
would like some advices on the practical way to fill up the raw water
circuit with antifreeze.  I plan on detaching the intake tube of the raw
water circuit from the seacock and putting it in a bucket filled with
antifreeze (I'm aiming for 2 gallons, is that enough?).  Then, I assume I
need to start up the engine and wait until antifreeze comes out from the
exhaust thruhull.

 

Should I just crank up the engine (with decompression lever open)?  If I
need to start the engine, how long should I expect to it?  Do you leave the
tube in the bucket unattended while you stand near the control panel to stop
the engine?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain

 


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