Re: Stus-List Oil Extractor Pump recommendations for Yanmar 2GM20F?

[dreuge]

Hi,

I have been very pleased for several years now using the LiquiVac Oil 
extractor.  It works much better than more expensive extractors I've tried.  
For under $30, it is hard to beat. 

Here is a link to the unit sold at Lowes.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_141690-60928-2005_4294857393+5003701_4294937087?productId=1016407

--
Paul Eugenio
S/V Johanna Rose
1979 C&C 29
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List halyards again( 10 aloft = 1 on the rail )

[dreuge]

I guess don't follow the adage of 10 aloft equals a man on the rail.  

While the mast to rail distance is a factor of 10, there is a sin(heel) factor 
for the aloft weight whereas it is a cos(heel) for the rail.  That is, at zero 
heel any weight aloft is equal to zero on the rail.  At 20 degrees heel, 10 lbs 
aloft is approximately 36 lbs on the rail.  The heel would need to be 63 
degrees before the 10 lbs aloft is equivalent to 200 lbs on the rail.  Also, 
since all of the weight aloft is not at the head of the mast, it would seem 
that it is even less of an effect.

Am I missing something?

--
Paul Eugenio
1979 C&C 29 mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

-•—
Subject: Re: Stus-List halyards again
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Hi David,

...

The weight aloft does make a differenceI
don't remember the numbers but 10 lbs aloft equals one man on the
rail.or something like that !!
Now, bear in mind that I am a recovering racer and have carbon main
and headsails.
Makes a difference and, after all, isn't your boat as special to you as
any AC vessel.

Niall Buckley.
CC41 Ardea 

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Re: Stus-List Stiff throttle

[dreuge]

Hi,

I had a cable once that was also painfully stiff to a point that I broke the 
handle trying to move it.   It turned out that cable housing was split at a 
point near the middle of the cable which allowed the inner cable to corrode at 
that location.   A new cable and self-manufactured handle fixed it.  You 
may want to check along the cable bends for split cable housings and replace.   
 

On another boat, I once saw a stiff cable caused by an over tight clamp near 
the injector.  It was fixed just by loosening the clamp a bit. 



-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Dec 3, 2013, at 9:07 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 22:03:28 -0800
> From: kevindrisc...@gmail.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Stiff throttle and belt recommendations for Yamar 2GM20
> on cnc 30 mkII
> 
> 
> (4) - The throttle is painfully stiff to the point I almost need two hands to 
> move it. Is there an easy  lubrication point to get it moving again till I 
> can replace the cable?
> Thanks everybody. 
> Kevin
> 
> s/v Osprey 
> 
> C&C 30 mkII
> Pic from Thanksgiving: 
> https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwhcX19YaPJ8QWtlbGE2NzhYRzQ/edit?usp=docslist_api
> Sent from my Tablet

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Stus-List single handing a C&C 38

[dreuge]

Hi,

I am think about upgrading to a larger vessel in the near future.  I currently 
sail my C&C 29 as a weekend cruiser almost every weekend except for a few 
miserable summer weekends.  But I also like to do some gulf sailing ranging 
from the FL Panhandle to the Keys.

I am currently fancying the early 1980's vintage  C&C 38 Landfall.   From what 
I have read and have seen these are wonderful boats.   Now I enjoy sailing my 
29 single handed which is about half the time I sail.   To those who know the 
38 well, can they be sailed reasonable solo?

Thanks for any advise.

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List unstepping mast

[dreuge]

Hi,

I want second the thanks to all for the great advise on unstepping the mast.   
I have in the background enjoying 
the inputs from everyone.  I am planning on unstepping my mast soon.  I 
originally had two big concerns, one was 
regarding the roller furling system (less of a concern now), but the other is 
the spartite-like mast collar. I really hope 
there was plenty of release Vaseline used during the initial install(before 
me).   Has anyone come across any spartite mast problems?
If so, what was the best way to cut through this material?

Thanks 

-
Paul E.
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Jan 9, 2014, at 8:54 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 21:39:14 -0800
> From: David Folsom 
> To: Frank , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>   
> Subject: Re: Stus-List unstepping mast
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Thank you everyone for the great advice
> I knew thus would be the best place to ask
> 
> the video was great
> 
> Frank, I am not in a hurry and if you are coming to San Diego it would be
> great to meet you
> 
> I am working with a rigger here in San Diego and using the yacht club would
> let me pull the mast right next to where I am going to work on it, rather
> than having to move the mast half mile down a busy street
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Dave Folsom

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Stus-List insuring a 38 landfall

[dreuge]

Hi 

I currently use Progressive for insuring my C&C 29.  I called them to insure 
the 38 Landfall and I was informed that they do not insure sailboat over 35' in 
length.   They did how ever added the 38LF on to my policy for the remainder of 
the policy year (Aug) , but informed me that the policy will not be renewable.  

I have been looking for other insurance companies, and so far I have received 
only one quote as most companies are not interested.   The quote came from 
BoatUS, but I was shocked that the quote is 4 times more than what I am 
currently paying at Progressive.Does $2,600/yr seem reasonable?What 
insurance companies are others using?

Thanks for any insight.

Paul


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1/ 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List Swageless lifeline system

[dreuge]

I replaced the lifelines on my 29 back in 2009 using the Suncor Quick Attach 
fittings.   They were easy to
work with, but I still manages to drop one of the fitting jaws overboard.   I 
sent an email to Suncor asking if 
I could purchase these parts, and they sent out a few free of charge the next 
day.   I have been very 
please with them.

That said,  I like what many have done using Amsteel-blue (steel grey) Dyneema 
in replacing lifelines.  

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
1981 C&C 38 LF
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Feb 13, 2014, at 9:52 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 18:01:58 -0600
> From: Dennis Cheuvront 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Stus-List Swageless lifeline system
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Some of you may already know this but Suncor has swageless lifeline
> fittings.  Their Quick Attach fittings are reusable.  You keep the fittings
> and just replace the wire every few years at your discretion.  No special
> tools, just a few hand tools which you probably already have.
> 
> Looks easy.  Here's a site:
> 
> http://www.unicornstainless.com/products/lifelines/?gclid=CMTZrKjlx7wCFUqSfgodRy0AUg
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Atomic 4 history was Marine vs Automotive parts

[dreuge]

Hi,


This is from Wikipedia:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Atomic_4



The Atomic 4 is descended from an earlier Universal Motor Company design called 
the Utility Four, which was used extensively in World War II by the United 
States Navy and allies to power the lifeboats for the ships, barges, and 
tankers of many navies and merchant marine fleets. The Utility Four was 
replaced by the Atomic 4 in 1947.




-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On May 17, 2013, at 8:33 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 09:23:05 -0300
> From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine vs Automotive parts
> Message-ID:
>   <4cdebb6b0f16c541ba8f985b72705d5416021...@hfxexc02.impgroup.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I once heard a story that the Atomic 4 was the power plant in the WW II
> landing craft.  Anyone know if this is true?

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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[dreuge]

Hi,

My raw water cooled 2QM15 had a problem of intermitting over heating.  I check 
and replaced many things: hoses, belts, impeller, ...   I even pickled the 
engine with vinegar and turned over water pump impeller backing plate thinking 
the wear was limiting flow.   I even thought I licked the problem.  After a big 
trip (2 two-days gulf crossings), I left the boat for a few weeks and when I 
returned, the engine was seized.  It turned out the  head gasket was slightly 
blown which let raw water in the cylinder and over two weeks corroded/seized a 
piston.  

I discovered the real reason for the heating problem(and likely the reason for 
blowing a head gasket) when I fixed the engine:  severe salt scale build up!

The picture below is my block with the cylinder selves removed showing what was 
likely 33 yrs of scale build up.   

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/7782378010/in/set-72157631067396554

I happily rebuilt the engine(another story) but I strongly suggest that anyone 
with a raw water system regularly flush the engine with a good agent like 
barnacle buster (and don't cheap your self by using vinegar).   The $30-$50 for 
barnacle buster is a lot less than the $800 I spent rebuilding my yanmar. 


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

Begin forwarded message:

> Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:00:17 -0700
> From: "Don Jonsson" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
> Message-ID: <023e01ce581a$0e7118d0$2b534a70$@ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
> culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
> generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
> 
> 
> 
> So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.
> I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and
> the engine.
> 
> 
> 
> I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
> supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I
> knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put
> it on.  Started up and no water.
> 
> 
> 
> I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded
> but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and
> started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat
> out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
> everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
> 
> 
> 
> So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't
> that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't
> think although I will replace it.  
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I'm
> stumped. 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone
> had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic
> had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers
> for that engine?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to anyone that can help.
> 
> Don
> 
> 
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Stus-List WestMarine has 40% off of bulk lines

[dreuge]

Hi,

I noticed that WestMarine is having a 40% off sale on all bulk rope, but for 
today only.The website claims that this include brands like New England and 
Sampson.  

I have been planning on changing my old bloated reefing lines for some time 
now.   I have been looking online for good deals.  As you likely know, WM 
prices tend to be high, but at 44¢/ft for 3/8" Samson LS, I purchased 105" of 
it this morning(shipped to store).   The website main page has a banner 
announcement of the deal, but the online prices did not reflect the discount.   
I called WM, and they confirmed a glitch, and I ordered the line over the phone.

Thought I would pass this info along.  

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/DealsView?langId=-1&storeId=11151&catalogId=10001


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List Music in Cockpit

[dreuge]

Hi,

I had a similar installation question.   Since most stereos are set up for 4 
Ohm impedance, I assumed that Ted connected the 8 Ohm exciters in parallel to 
match the stereo.  It turns out this is so.   See the comments I found on 
sailboatowners.com:   
http://forums.beneteau.sailboatowners.com/printthread.php?t=152348


+++
Ted 05-14-2013 12:20 am
Music
 
A while back Philwsailz contributed some information to a topic on the SBO 
forum regarding music on a boat.  

  The sound exciters that I used are rated at 8 ohms and I wired two of 
them in parallel to achieve 4 ohms. The location seems ideal because the seat 
backs are angled and help direct the sound more directly to the listeners ears. 
...
+++

I would read the full message for more details.

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Jul 1, 2013, at 8:42 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 20:42:00 -0400
> From: "Bob Hickson" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Music in Cockpit
> Message-ID: <006401ce76bc$f7352eb0$e59f8c10$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Ted,
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a reason that you used an 8 ohm exciter?
> 
> My stereo is set up for 4 ohm speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
> 
> C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
> 
> Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club
> 
> Pickering, ON
> 
> (416) 919-2297
> 
>  bobhick...@rogers.com
> 
> 
> 
>  __/) 

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 90, Issue 15

[dreuge]

Hi,

My 1979 C&C 29 with Yanmar 2QM15 and 1" shaft uses 3/16" packing.  I have been 
using the GFO Gore-Tex dripless packing with great success.  


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Jul 7, 2013, at 11:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 20:00:28 -0400
> From: Brian Morrison 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Stuffing Box Packing Material
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Thanks for the feedback on the emergency tiller. Now I have a new question 
> about packing material for the stuffing box. Does anyone know the proper size 
> packing material for a 1979 C&C 34 with an atomic 4 engine?
> 
> Brian C. Morrison
> Rekofa
> 1979 C&C 34

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Re: Stus-List Music in cockpit

[dreuge]

Bob,

Have a look at the article I found online regarding "Inhibition of barnacle 
cyprid settlement using low frequency and intensity ultrasound." 

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22296259


Ted, 

Also a big thanks.  I just installed a stereo in my cabin, and while I wanted 
speakers in my cockpit, I was very reluctant to cut speakers holes.  


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Jul 4, 2013, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 22:39:53 -0400
> From: Bob Moriarty 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Music in cockpit
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Ted,
> That is really cool and interesting. Thanks for posting the youtube and the
> details.
> I wonder if there's any sort of rock'n'roll or other music that barnacles
> and slime find repulsive.
> I say that mostly in jest, remembering the "magic ultrasound barnacle
> repeller system" from years back.
> Not trying to change the subject. I'm going to give your discovery a try.
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL

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Stus-List what masthead anchor light is it?

[dreuge]

Hi,

I took a photo of the top of my mast while I was up there this weekend.  The 
photo at the link below shows the anchor light.

Does anyone recognize the light?  While it is working fine, I have no clue what 
make/model it is, how to replace the bulb, or what type bulb/LED replacement it 
takes. 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/masthead-light.jpg



Thanks for any help.


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 90, Issue 35

[dreuge]

Thanks Fred.I tried searching under google images first but failed 
miserable after 10-15 minutes.

This list is great!


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Jul 11, 2013, at 6:37 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 16:56:19 -0500
> From: Frederick G Street 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List what masthead anchor light is it?
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Paul -- that looks like an AquaSignal Series 22, part #22040.  It uses a 
> ten-watt lamp, but I don't know what base.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

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Re: Stus-List Wilcox-Crittenden (now Thetford) HeadMate head

[dreuge]

Hi,

I have battled the same problem of water not coming in through the intake.  
This tends to happen when the head has not been used for some time.  The 
problem turns out to be a stuck inlet flap valve.  This flap is just behind the 
6 screw plastic water inlet housing cover.   Most times, I can just tap the 
cover with the back of a screw driver and it will start working.If that 
does not work, one can take the inlet hose off of the cover and insert a 
screwdriver into the cover inlet to free the flap(make sure the lever is down). 
 At this point you could spray or add some type of lubricant.  Don Casey 
suggest to monthly flush the head pump with vinegar and then a dose of mineral 
oil.  I have also read silicone spray or grease works well for marine heads too.


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Jul 16, 2013, at 2:07 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 12:06:19 -0400
> From: "Gary Nylander" 
> To: "Dennis C." ,  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wilcox-Crittenden (now Thetford) HeadMate head
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> West Marine's catalog shows the parts as well. Page 505 of the catalog. 
> Packing Nut for 4.99. Kit for 79.99. 
> But. one lister said that using some Head Lube (p 507) solved his washer 
> leaking problem. This was posted in the last couple of weeks. 
> 
> I have similar problems. My Head mate won't bring water up from the thru hull 
> and I'm just leaving to get some Head Lube to see if that fixes the problem 
> (and the leaky washer). If not, there are some suppliers of kits that are 
> even less expensive than West, but if you add in the shipping costs, it comes 
> out to the same. So I may be in the market for a kit as well.
> 
> Gary Nylander
> 30-1

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 91, Issue 4

[dreuge]

Hi,

I would try the thickened G/Flex epoxy from West Systems. It bonds plastic 
very well.  See the G/flex epoxy kayak challenge on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a5RlcP-4JE


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Aug 2, 2013, at 8:28 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 13:26:00 -0300
> From: Knowles Rich 
> To: "kenhea...@gmail.com" ,
>   "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Depending on exactly where it is broken, a plastic supplier can supply an 
> acrylic bonding cement that might well repair it easily. 
> 
> RIch
> 
> 
> On 2013-08-01, at 12:51, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
>> The opening port on my 1979 C&C 36 has a broken hatch at the point that is 
>> hinged to the fixed part of the port. The port is plastic with the 
>> deminsions of 4 7/8" X 15", there are two hinge points that are connected to 
>> the fixed part of the port and the outside measurement of them is 9 1/4". 
>> Anyone with a thought of repair or replacement, please advise. 
>> I do not believe that it was produced by Atkins Hoyle.
> 

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Re: Stus-List Opening port Now: fix with G/Flex

[dreuge]

Hi,

I would try the thickened G/Flex epoxy from West Systems. It bonds plastic 
very well.  See the G/flex epoxy kayak challenge on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a5RlcP-4JE


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL



> 
> On Aug 2, 2013, at 8:28 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 13:26:00 -0300
>> From: Knowles Rich 
>> To: "kenhea...@gmail.com" ,
>>  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
>> 
>> Depending on exactly where it is broken, a plastic supplier can supply an 
>> acrylic bonding cement that might well repair it easily. 
>> 
>> RIch
>> 
>> 
>> On 2013-08-01, at 12:51, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>> 
>>> The opening port on my 1979 C&C 36 has a broken hatch at the point that is 
>>> hinged to the fixed part of the port. The port is plastic with the 
>>> deminsions of 4 7/8" X 15", there are two hinge points that are connected 
>>> to the fixed part of the port and the outside measurement of them is 9 
>>> 1/4". 
>>> Anyone with a thought of repair or replacement, please advise. 
>>> I do not believe that it was produced by Atkins Hoyle.
>> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Portlights

[dreuge]

Hi,

I am looking to replace the Beckson 5x12 port in my pilot's birth (access to 
cockpit).I am thinking of going with a Vetus PZ72 which also has an  
Aluminum frame.   Does anyone have experience with Vetus ports or other 
recommendations?


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Aug 15, 2013, at 9:34 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 20:39:25 -0400
> From: Alex Giannelia 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Portlights
> Message-ID:
>   <1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bedaae...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I replaced the Beckson plastic with a cast aluminum from Atkins and Hoyle, 
> the original C&C supplier.  Looks, good, opens easily and fit in the head 
> like a glove.
> 
> ALEX GIANNELIA
> 
> Phone (416) 203-9858
> Fax   (416) 203-9843
> Cell   (416) 529-0070
> 
> email: a...@airsensing.com
> WEB: www.airsensing.com

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Re: Stus-List Tachometer for a 3QM30H Yanmar

[dreuge]

Hi,

A previous owner replaced the tach gauge on for my 2QM15 with a fuel gauge.   
Rather than replacing the fuel gauge, I installed a diesel Tiny-Tach which in 
addition to the tachometer, is also  log keeper of run-time hours.  The 
tiny-tach was worked fine for many years now.See:   
http://tinytach.com/diesel.php

If you do go with a Tiny-Tach, you would need the 6mm transducer option to 
connect onto one of the Yanmar high pressure injector lines. 


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Aug 16, 2013, at 7:36 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 17:48:35 -0400
> From: TOM VINCENT 
> To: C&C Forum 
> Subject: Stus-List Tachometer for a 3QM30H Yanmar
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> My 1979 36' C&C does not have a tachometer and I was wondering if anyone 
> feels that it is/is not necessary.
> 
> Also, is there a tachometer that would be recommended?
> 
> Tom Vincent
> Frolic II 
> Chesapeake City, MD

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Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs

[dreuge]

Hi,

I have replaced several slugs already, and they are very easy to do.Watch 
the video on Sailrite for installing an outhaul slug it will show you the 
proper proceedure which is the same for any sail slug.

Go to the link below, and then select the "Video" tab on the bottom.

http://www.sailrite.com/Slug-Coated-Outhaul-15-32



-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:50 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: "Knowles Rich"  
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 9:55:24 AM 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Main Sail Slugs 
> 
> Nylon tie wraps work well. 
> 
> Rich Knowles 
> Indigo. LF38 
> Halifax 
> 
> On 2013-08-20, at 10:44, OldSteveH  wrote: 
> 
> On our recent sailing trip two of the plastic/nylon slugs broke and need to 
> be replaced. 
> I would appreciate comments from others on the possibility of doing this 
> ones self. 
> 
> The slugs are wrapped through their slots with a piece of webbing material 
> which is stitched to the sail and is also melted or 'welded' to itself to 
> attach slug to sail luff. 
> 
> The sail is older but still has good shape (kevlar). I am reluctant to keep 
> spending money on an old sail but it is worth repairing if there is a good 
> DIY solution for a non-sailmaker. I have watched some Youtube video on this 
> but would appreciate comments from the list group. 
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> 
> Steve Hood 
> S/V Diamond Girl 
> C&C 34 
> Lions Head ON 

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Stus-List : Re: Fwd: Replacing Lifelines

[dreuge]

Hi,

If you go with wire, you can save a ton of money by buying from a cable and 
chain vendor.  I replaced my lifelines 4 years ago.  I purchased suncor quick 
attach hardware from Defender and wire from Quality Chain & Cable.  I paid 
$.95/ft for 3/16 -5/16 7x7 Type 316 PVC Coated Lifeline (Defender price is 
$2.09/ft for same wire) and $.80/ft for 3/16 1x19 Type 316  Standing Rigging.



http://www.qualitychainandcable.com/

70 Commercial Way
East Providence, Rhode Island 02914

Paul Eugenio


Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 12:03:28 -0400
From: Bill Bina 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Lifelines
Message-ID: <521f70d0.5000...@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

I re-did my lifelines a few years ago with a kit from
http://www.csjohnson.com/

I may have ordered it through Defender, but you can also buy direct from 
them now.

I also have one of their mooring "Grab & Go devices, and LOVE it. The 
Admiral is also a big fan. :-)

Bill Bina

On 8/29/2013 11:38 AM, Al Serrato wrote:
> Thanks for the suggestions. The kits look easy enough but I was 
> concerned about whether a hand tool can give me a strong enough swage 
> connection. I thought a big compression machine was needed to get it 
> to bond correctly.
> 



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Stus-List replacing steaming old light

[dreuge]

Hi,

I am looking to replace the old steaming light on my mast.  I don't know if it 
is the original but what I have now is a basic clear dome similar in size to 
the running lights(link to image below).   My plan is to replace the light with 
a Hella 8505 combination masthead/deck and run new Ancor 16/3 wire using the 
old wire as a messenger. 

My questions: 

Has anyone removed the cast metal light base from the side of the mast before? 
How difficult is it to remove this metal base from the side of the mast?  When 
I last replaced the bulb, I did not see mounting screws for the metal cast 
base.  It looked pretty firmly attached on the mast.   I am guessing that it is 
either glued,  pressed in place, or possibly welded(I hope not).  


Here below is a link to am image of the type of light I presently have: 
http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/maP16keZ5hiGpD8K79RfqmA.jpg

Thanks for any insight.

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light

[dreuge]

Dennis,

Thanks for the info.  Another question:Are you happy 
with the Aquasignal?I was deciding between the Forespar ML-2, Hella 8505, 
and the AquaSignal Series 25.   I  decided on the Hella based on some bad 
reviews I found online for the other two.   The Forespar had reports of top 
lens falling out while tacking and the AquaSignal was stated as not having any 
spray protection for the deck light bulb and so bulbs corroded and died 
prematurely.   


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Sep 5, 2013, at 10:49 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 07:49:51 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light
> Message-ID:
>   <1378392591.1503.yahoomail...@web121903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Paul,
> 
> If it is like the one on Touche's mast, I abandoned it.? It was that same 
> Perko all around light mounted on a metal "donut" welded to the mast.? I 
> installed an Aquasignal Series 25 combo steaming/foredeck light a bit above 
> the old fixture and dropped new wires.? 
> 
> I'm guessing the Aquasignal would fit over and hide the existing donut once 
> you remove the Perko light if you wanted to mount it in the same spot.? You 
> could use the existing wires to pull the new wires.
> 
> On a side note, Touche's pole topping lift exited another of those "donut" 
> things above the steaming light.? I have also abandoned that and installed an 
> exit box with sheave for the topping lift.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 29 Hull

[dreuge]

The mk1 hull is solid.   The wording on the first brochure is vague in saying 
super strong hull and deck with ... balsa coring...

If you look at the last brochure (c) on the site, you will see that it clearly 
states a solid fiberglass hull construction and a balsa cored deck.



--
Paul Eugenio
S/V Johanna Rose
C&C 29 mk1
Carrabelle, FL

--
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 3:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 29 Hull



The Mk1 brochure on the "Photoalbum" says it had a cored hull.

I don't have any first hand knowledge, just quoting from the original C&C 
brochure.



sam :-)






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Stus-List Standard Horizon GX2150 VHF/AIS + GPS

[dreuge]

Hi,

I am enjoying a conference in Rome this week, and I want to add to the AIS chat 
before I get back and the discussion becomes too stale.   

For some time I have been eyeballing the GX2150 VHF/AIS with the hope that 
Standard Horizon would come out with an update which included a built in GPS(I 
even call SH and asked about it, but there are no indications of SH doing so).  
Standard Horizon is having a Fall rebate of $50 on the GX2150, and I found a 
great price of $299 for a GX2150 at GPScity.com.  At total cost of $250, I 
could not pass this up and so I purchased a unit.  It arrived two days before 
my flight out to Italy, and rather than preparing my conference talk, I was 
wiring and test the GX2150 ( hey, my talk is not until Wednesday).

To provide the NMEA GPS I was planning on running a line from my gps enabled 
sounder, but then I looked into connecting one of those GPS pucks to the vhf 
instead.   I ordered a $30 GlobalSat BR-355 PS/2 GPS(which arrived a day before 
the GX2150), cut off the PS/2 connector, wired the unit to provide 5V using a 
simple 5V regulator chip, and connected grounds and vhf NMEA input to the GPS 
NMEA output.   Instant success.  If anyone is interested, I can provide more 
details and photos when I get back.

See the workbench photo showing the GPS info screen:
   
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2yqv14140eh0kl7/Photo%20Sep%2024%2C%208%2047%2049%20PM.jpg


Very happy with the GX2150, I just ordered a RAM3 remote mic which has a matrix 
dot screen so I will have AIS info and a VHF in the cockpit.I have also 
been in communications with the folks at SailTimer (I have one of their wind 
vanes) and vYachts  to get a bios compatible wireless NMEA multiplexer(~$130).  
This way, I will be able to use iNavX and display both wind and AIS information 
in the same app.   Digital Yacht makes a unit which will work (WLN 10) but it 
costs over 2.5 times the vYacht unit.

All in all, it is a nice do it yourself project at a very reasonable cost.

--
Paul Eugenio
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL 

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Stus-List swim ladder for 38 landfall

[dreuge]

Hi,

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement swim ladder for 38 landfall?  I 
would also greatly appreciate if anyone on a 38LF could send me the ladder 
measurements (width, length, tube, rungs, ).   This will be helpful in finding 
a suitable replacement. 

 I understand that White Water Marine  (Port huron, MI) made the ladder for my 
29, so I am hoping that they may have or can make one for the 38LF.   

Thanks for any help.

yours very truly,

Paul


-
Paul Eugenio
C&C 29-1/ C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Stus-List Navigation Software, Pads, and more

[dreuge]

A few years ago I was using my laptop running GPSNavX down below and my Garmin 
eTrex GPS in hand.  Then I purchased an Ipad, and soon I stopped running the 
laptop and eventually stopped even bringing the laptop onboard.  A couple years 
ago I got my iphone with lifeproof case (i.e weather proof) and while I still 
have the iPad onboard, I rarely use it.  

The iPad/iPhone navigation has worked out well for my many day sails and more, 
including a few 160NM FL Gulf crossings, but after adding a wireless windvane 
and  VHF with AIS have been wanting more.

Now that I am refitting a 38 Landfall, the cost of a chart plotter seems so 
affordable (the Rodney Dangerfield effect: "If you want to look thin, you hang 
out with fat people",  same with spending money).

I am preparing to replace all thru-hulls with plans to upgrade electronics too. 
 So far I am think on a B&G Triton Depth/Speed/Wind package  with a Zeus T7
chart plotter.  As stated in an earlier post, there are good prices and rebates 
going on now.I like the WiFi option on the Zeus which allows one to run a 
B&G iPad app to remotely view and control the Zeus.Also, as shown in the 
Zeus manual, it can be used to bridge instrument data out to applications like 
iNavX.   But with some less features, Standard Horizon has some good cost 
effective options too. A SH CP390i chart plotter with Depth/Speed/Temp can be 
found for about $1k. 

I am leaning towards the sexy B&G option, but I am interested in what others my 
think.   




-
Paul E.
C&C 29-1/ C&C 38 landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Feb 19, 2014, at 6:37 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:00:00 -0800
> From: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Shopping for Electronics
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I just ordered my Triton wind / depth / speed  / wind vane / hull
> transducer package and found out I can get an additional Triton T41 display
> for free !  (A 450.00 value)
> 
> It's called  B&G Winter Rebate.  They have rebates on the Zeus chart
> plotters as well.  A note here is that the version 2 of the Zeus touch
> charplotters are out already but they are pricey.  The version II  7 inch
> is about 1,500 bucks whereas you can get the prior version for 800-900
> (Even less with this rebate).  From what I can tell the functionality is
> the same but the version 2 has a 10 hz GPS instead of a 5 Hz GPS.  It
> probably has slightly faster processing as well.  Since we're on sailboats
> going 5-8 knots I'm not sure of the faster GPS makes much of a difference.
> 
> Here's the skinny
> 
> 
> Buy a Wind / Depth / Speed package with the windvane and hull transducer,
> get a free Triton T41 display  (450.00 )
> 500.00 rebate on Zeus 12 Multifunction Display
> 300.00 rebate on Zeus 8 Multifunction Display
> 200.00 rebate on Zeus 12 Touch Multifunction Display
> 150.00 rebate on Zeus Touch 8 and 7 Multifunction Display
> 
> I bought from / found this at StarMarineDepot.com  (They had the best deal
> on both the Triton and Zeus)
> 
> Your product receipt or invoice must show that you purchased the eligible
> product between 2/13/14 and 4/06/14. Hand written
> invoices or sales receipts will not be accepted. The envelope containing
> your materials must be postmarked no later than
> 04/21/14 and must be received by the B&G rebate processing center no later
> than 05/9/14.
> 
> -Francois
> 1990 C&C 34+ Take Five
> Lake Lanier, Georgia

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Re: Stus-List Bow Roller and possibly Windlass for the 1977 29

[dreuge]

Hi,

I have a homemade bow roller on a 29 which has worked out well for the past 6 
years.  I keep a 22lb delta on it.  I can send you more details if you are 
interested, but it is basically an Al plate with some standard rollers bolted 
on.   See  photos of it at:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/6857657943/in/set-72157629273706637/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/6857707249/in/set-72157629273706637/




-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29-1
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

Begin forwarded message:

> Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 15:03:13 -0500
> From: Paul Kunicki 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Bow Roller and possibly Windlass for the 1977 29
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I am presently preparing for a haul-out during which I would like to have an 
> anchor roller installed. I found a photo of a 1977 29 MKI named Anonymous 
> here: 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/bowroller/bowroller.htm
> 
> Unfortunately, the link no longer works.
> 
> Form the photo, it appears that there is both a danforth and plow style 
> anchors hanging from the bow and it is not obvious whether or not a Windlass 
> is installed? I? would love to know if this was a custom built or if it was a 
> product available off the shelf. 
> 
> Any info on what roller/bracket and mounting method is best for hanging a 
> 22lb delta or similar plow type anchor on a smaller C&C like this would be 
> very helpful.
> 
> Thanks for your time and patience,
> 
> Paul Kunicki
> Systems Manager
> Owner 1977 C&C 29 MKI
> Boca Raton, FL  
> 

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Re: Stus-List Fw: LF38 Propane locker and stern ladder

[dreuge]

Thanks Dan!



-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29-1
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Feb 26, 2014, at 3:37 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 12:36:35 -0800 (PST)
> From: Daniel Sheer 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Fw: LF38 Propane locker and stern ladder
>   measurements
> Message-ID:
>   <1393446995.26315.yahoomail...@web126204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sunday, February 23, 2014 4:36 PM, Daniel Sheer  wrote:
> 
> For those who asked.
> 
> Stern ladder
> 1" ss tube
> 14" wide
> 43" long
> Rung spacing 14" - lowest rung and sides one piece. Top and middle rung 
> welded in perpendicular
> 
> 1st rung standoff? 7.25 to inside of tube. One piece bent tube standoff
> 
> Top standoff 4" + .5" pad to inside of tube. 2 pieces. Top rung of ladder 
> passes through close fitting tube for hinge.
> 
> ?
> Tank locker note, locker is a slightly curved along the width, curves are 
> parallel front and back
> 
> width? 24.5" overall,? 22" interior
> length 13" overall, 10.875 interior
> depth 12" interior + 3" up in cover
> 
> Pictures are not attached - too big. Send a private message if you want 'em.
> 
> 
> Dan
> Pegathy LF38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List Cheaper Tether

[dreuge]

Hi,

While I favor  Stearns SOSP tethers,  marine part depot has cheap tethers for 
$27. I have seen these in hand, and they seem fairly robust.  Maybe someone 
has some experience with these?


http://www.marinepartdepot.com/tewihoandfie.html


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL






On Mar 24, 2014, at 9:03 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> On 3/23/2014 9:29 PM, bobmor99 . wrote:
>> I'll be crewing in a few weeks on my first multi-night offshore 
>> passage. Among the items I need to procure are a harness and tether.
>> Marine tethers seem very overpriced so I've been looking into mountain 
>> climbing gear substitutes.
>> Any concerns mating these carabiners:
>> 
>> 
> http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Neutrino-Carabin
> er_10003048_10208_1001_-1_
>> 
>> with these runners (thinking of a 120 cm coupled with a 240 cm (total 
>> of 3 carabiners)):
>> 
>> 
> http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-10mm-Dynex-Runne
> rs_10031236_10208_1001_-1_
>> 
>> to make a tether?
>> 
>> Bob M
>> Ox 33-1
>> Jax, FL
> 

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Stus-List 38 Landfall asymmetrical spinnaker

[dreuge]

Hi,

I am looking into getting an asymmetrical  spinnaker for my 38 LF.   I have 
received a few quotes from different vendors each suggesting a slightly 
different size chutes.National Sails has the better price which includes a 
dousing sock, but it is a smaller chute.

So my question is what size asymmetrical spinnakers are other 38 LF using?  Has 
anyone tried a National Sail spinnaker with their dousing sock?   



National Sail:
asymmetrical spinnakers in 1.5oz, luff 47.9', leech 43.79', foot 24', 
pre-installed in dousing socks and discount priced at $1,798

FX Sails:
asymmetrical spinnakers in 1.5oz, Sail Area: 1185 sq ft, (includes turtle bag)  
$2,418

Precision Sails:
asymmetrical spinnakers in 1.5oz, luff 51.5', leech 47', foot 27.5', Sail Area: 
 1200 sq ft,  (no turtle or sock)  $2,328


Many thanks in advance.




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List newly documented vessel

[dreuge]

Yes in Florida you need to obtain a vessel registration, but you do not need to 
display the numbers.  

Only the registration sticker needs to be displayed on the port side of the 
documented boat. It goes either on the bow where the numbers and sticker 
usually go, on a window/windshield, or common for sailboat, on the port side of 
the mast base.  

An unadvertised detail about FL vessel registration is that for vessels older 
than 30yrs, one can register as an antique vessel which costs only $5/yr rather 
than the usual $100/yr.  

--
Paul E


> On Apr 29, 2014, at 8:55 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2014 20:08:49 -0400
> From: Rick Brass 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List newly documented vessel
> Message-ID: <0c135f42-be2e-4447-8ad9-4dd2bf5fe...@earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> You'll need to ask the state. Each one seems to do it differently. In North 
> Carolina you need to get a state registration number, but do not need to 
> actually show the numbers - just the state sticker near the starboard bow. I 
> can't recall the state, but at least one requires you show the state number 
> even if documented. And Florida requires that you obtain a Florida 
> registration and display the Florida number even if documented and your home 
> state does not register documented vessels (which was the case here in NC 
> until lazy July).
> 
> There is no uniform system. Call the state.
> 
> Rick

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Re: Stus-List Stus-Trip Planning

[dreuge]

Depending on how work goes, I am planning on a mid-April trip to the Dry 
Tortugas and if time permits Key West.



-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL



>>  --
>> *From:* Richard N. Bush 
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 9, 2013 7:12 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stus-Trip Planning
>> 
>> Since its time to begin planning (or dreaming) about trips or
>> destinations for next summer I was wondering what others have in mind.  Is
>> anyone planning an extended trip or have a special place in mind?
>> Richard
>> 1987 33-II
>> 
>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>> 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40202
>> 502-584-7255
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Re: Stus-List More on GPS accuracy & Einstein

[dreuge]

Hi,

While we are chatting about how GPS works and its accuracy, I would like add a 
few interesting tidbits.   

A good part of the accuracy come from taking Einstein's Relativity into 
account.  Special Relativistic effects like properly calculating doppler shifts 
and relative motion are important, but also General Relativistic effects need 
to be applied.   For example, Special Relativity states that moving clocks run 
slower, but General Relativity states that clocks run slower in a gravitational 
field.   Satellites are moving fast compared to someone on Earth so this makes 
their clocks to run slower.  But satellites feel less of the earth's gravity so 
our Earth-bound clocks run slower.  Since a satellite speed, while fast to us 
is slow relative to the speed of light,  our Earthly clocks end up running 
slower than clocks on GPS satellites (~50 microseconds/day which amounts to 
about a 7 nautical mile spread!).  Also, light (i.e. GPS signals) do not travel 
in a straight path as one assumes in triangulating a "fix".  Rather matter 
curves space around it, so GPS signals actually bend (i.e. gravitational 
lensing).  The latter effect, which is tiny compared to the former, was 
actually proved using a sextant of sort, by measuring a star's position during 
a solar eclipse in 1919.

While these effects are ordinarily insignificant for life on Earth, they are 
important on the scale of GPS accuracy.I am sure that Einstein did not have 
GPS in mind when he wrote down the theory of Relativity, but I'll still thank 
him nonetheless.


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Jan 29, 2013, at 8:44 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 05:55:03 +
> From: "Brent Driedger" 
> To: "Leslie Paal" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List More on GPS accuracy
> Message-ID:
>   
> <499177535-1359438905-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1984730907-@b17.c8.bise6.blackberry>
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
> 
> I'm enjoying this in depth GPS education.
> I recall some scuttlebutt in Sail magazine a year or two ago warning that 
> most of the birds in the system were approaching their "best before date" of 
> over 25 years and without getting immediate replacement the system would be 
> down a few leaving some holes or temporary signal loss in some locations in 
> the coming years. Have you heard any updates to this rumor?
> 
> Brent Driedger
> s/v Wild Rover
> C&C 27-5
> Sent from my BlackBerry? smartphone on the MTS High Speed Mobility Network
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Leslie Paal 
> Sender: "CnC-List" 
> Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 12:04:01 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Reply-To: Leslie Paal , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List More on GPS accuracy
> 
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Stus-List iRegatta polars

[dreuge]

Hi,

I have just purchased iRegatta and plan to start using it.   The application 
allows one to input and export polar information.   The developers website 
contains polars for some boats of which none are C&C's.See 
http://www.letscreate.dk/letscreate/?q=node/300 

Would anyone have an iRegatta polar file for a C&C mk1?

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Stus-List port replacement on 29Mk1

[dreuge]

Dear List,


I am looking to replace the small portlight  in the aft end of the pilot birth 
on a 29mk1.  It looks to be  6x13" in size.  The current portlight has an 
protruding lip, and since the portlight external is in the cockpit, this lip 
has been stepped-on, broken, epoxied, and globbed to death.

Are there any recommendations on which brand and model portlight one should use 
for a more flush-fitting functional access.


Thanks for any advise.

Paul


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List cheap red led cabin light

[dreuge]

Hi,


I replaced the festoon bulbs in my 6 fixtures two years ago with these LEDs.  
There are still working great.  One white LEDs is more then twice as bright as 
the old festoon and draws half the power too.   The red LED draws less than 1/4 
of that of the old red incandescent.My light fixtures have one red festoon 
socket  and two sockets for the white.  In some fixtures I needed only 
installed one white  LED as two were just too bright. 

126-Lumen White LED  $5.70
http://dx.com/p/1136-1w-126-lumen-9x5050-smd-led-car-festoon-white-light-bulb-dc-12-24v-35730


Red LED  $5.54
http://dx.com/p/t10-ba9s-festoon-0-9w-12v-6-led-car-ceiling-dome-light-bulb-red-16098
 


I also replaced broken vanity and galley sink fluorescent fixtures with these:
http://dx.com/p/36-led-car-interior-light-white-light-dc-12v-45278


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Mar 7, 2013, at 3:01 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 12:37:16 -0500
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List cheap red led cabin light
> Message-ID:
>   <1073606396712942aee54d9a960e45a71860fe1...@hq-mb-07.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/290852540624?item=290852540624&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OU:US:3160&vxp=mtr
> 
> I just bought one of these and one is left. For $12 it doesn't look bad.
> 
> Joe Della Barba Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Autopilots testing fluxgate compass

[dreuge]

Hi,

I recently contacted Raymarine regarding my over shooting X-5 autopilot 
problems.   The Tech stated that it sounded like a compass problem and that I 
could test the fluxgate compass by measuring the resistance across various 
wires.  Below are the procedures for given by the Raymarine tech.  In my case, 
the compass tested fine, and after cleaning all electrical connections the 
pilot is back to working order.

==Raymarine tech procedures for testing fluxgate compass==
• Check for something interfering with the fluxgate compass
• Remove compass wires from computer and measure resistance across wires
• red/green should be between 4 - 10 Ohms
• red/yellow should be between 4 - 10 Ohms
• green/yellow should be between 8 - 10 Ohms
• shield/blue should be between 8 - 10 Ohms



-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Mar 27, 2013, at 9:16 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 05:38:15 -0300
> From: dwight veinot 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilots
> Message-ID: <9FDDAEC403E141B3BC4A9E90215B4DC0@your4dacd0ea75>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Bad connections and deviations above 3 can screw it up, that was a problem
> on mine anyway.I seem to recall 5 wires from the fluxgate compass at the
> control head and I believe the ground wire was the culprit.I also had higher
> than 3 or deviation check but I finally got that right
> 
> 
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> 
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> 
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

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Re: Stus-List - C&C construction differences / topsides

[dreuge]

I always thought that the gelcoat was sprayed into the hull mold before 
glassing.I can't imagine skipping the gelcoat and going straight to 
glassing.  

My guess is that it was stripped during later "improvements".



-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer

[dreuge]

Hi,

I have heard of folks using Dyneema for a preventer because they feel that 
stronger is better.   Dyneema is actually a poor choice and can actually beak 
in a sudden impulse before a simple nylon line would, but more importantly, 
using Dyneema would provide a greater beating on the rigging than necessary.  

It is the same principle as why one would not use Dyneema for anchor rodes.  
Because of the stretch, nylon feels a much smaller force.  Since the energy 
absorbed by the line is the product of force times stretch, the Dyneema, with 
little stretch, will feel a much greater force for the same sudden impulse.   
There is a great demonstration comparing Dyneema and nylon in dynamic loads at 
http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/. 


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On May 10, 2013, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
> Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 11:32:55 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer
> 
> One thing I've seen on boats that run a lot or have high, long booms, is a 
> permanently rigged piece of Dynema attached at the end of the boom and run 
> forward to the a snap-shackle at the gooseneck. That way it's easy to rig a 
> preventer to the bow when the sheets are already eased; just release the line 
> from the end of the boom and snap it to the preventer from the bow. If 
> running to the bow, I will usually just run the preventer through the mooring 
> line fairlead...with appropriate chafe protection if it's going to be rigged 
> for more than a few hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40 
> Peregrine

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Re: Stus-List Transmission Fluid leak (Yanmar 2qm15)

[dreuge]

Hi Nate,

I am in the middle of rebuilding my 2QM15 which came with my C&C 29 mk1.   I 
disagree that the engine needs to be pulled to get out the transmission.  You 
can pull the transmission without pulling the engine.  You will be surprised, 
but the 2QM15 transmission weighs only about 20lbs.  But since the rear motor 
mounts bolt to the transmission, you will have to support the rear of the 
engine.   This can be done by either  stacking boards under the oil pan (use 
wide boards) and/or using a block and tackle to lift from your boom.   Connect 
the tackle to the middle of the boom with some good rope, then bring other end 
of the tackle into the cabin/engine compartment connecting it to the rear 
engine lift ring which is on the rear of the cylinder head.  It easier than it 
sounds, and it should be a simple job.  I would leave the engine mounts 
connected to the transmission unbolting them from the stringers.  That way you 
do not change the mount adjustments keeping your engine aligned when returned.

I pulled my engine out single-handedly using my boom, main sheet, and vang 
block and tackle.  I first pulled the engine onto plywood into the cabin. I 
then removed the transmission thinking it would reduce weight, but was 
surprised by how light it was.  Using both blocks systems, I lifted the engine 
up, out, and swung it over and down onto the dock next to my boat.  Using a 2X4 
looped to the engine lift rings, another person and I walked the engine off the 
docks.   The 2QM15 total weight is about 320lbs.


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL



On Aug 1, 2012, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 14:37:20 +
> From: Nate Flesness 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission Fluid leak (Yanmar 2qm15)
> Message-ID:
>   
> <3d3ec17e62a20f4c8771d26b7c51385311453...@bl2prd0510mb385.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> After a couple of years of small drips, my 32 year old Yanmar started leaking 
> transmission fluid at an ounce an hour while motoring last weekend.
> Probably from the forward seal ? where it meets the engine. It?s the big 
> flange ? I?ve tried to get in there to tighten bolts but not been able to 
> move them with the little wrenches I could get into the small spaces. 
> Dockside advice is I?ll have to have the engine pulled. Meanwhile I?m 
> stopping, checking and filling every 2-4 hours if motoring to keep the tranny 
> fluid at normal levels, and catching the leak in a dishpan under the engine.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> If I?m paying for engine in and out, what ELSE would people recommend?
> I?m thinking possibly motor mounts?? and I?ve always had a small oil leak too 
> (I know, they say Yanmars never leak?.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nate Flesness
> ?Sarah Jean?
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior

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Re: Stus-List Transmission Fluid leak (Yanmar 2qm15)

[dreuge]

Hi Nate,

I am in the middle of rebuilding my 2QM15 which came with my C&C 29 mk1.   I 
disagree that the engine needs to be pulled to get out the transmission.  You 
can pull the transmission without pulling the engine.  You will be surprised, 
but the 2QM15 transmission weighs only about 20lbs.  But since the rear motor 
mounts bolt to the transmission, you will have to support the rear of the 
engine.   This can be done by either  stacking boards under the oil pan (use 
wide boards) and/or using a block and tackle to lift from your boom.   Connect 
the tackle to the middle of the boom with some good rope, then bring other end 
of the tackle into the cabin/engine compartment connecting it to the rear 
engine lift ring which is on the rear of the cylinder head.  It easier than it 
sounds, and it should be a simple job.  I would leave the engine mounts 
connected to the transmission unbolting them from the stringers.  That way you 
do not change the mount adjustments keeping your engine aligned when returned.

I pulled my engine out single-handedly using my boom, main sheet, and vang 
block and tackle.  I first pulled the engine onto plywood into the cabin. I 
then removed the transmission thinking it would reduce weight, but was 
surprised by how light it was.  Using both blocks systems, I lifted the engine 
up, out, and swung it over and down onto the dock next to my boat.  Using a 2X4 
looped to the engine lift rings, another person and I walked the engine off the 
docks.   The 2QM15 total weight is about 320lbs.


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL



On Aug 1, 2012, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 14:37:20 +
> From: Nate Flesness 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission Fluid leak (Yanmar 2qm15)
> Message-ID:
>   
> <3d3ec17e62a20f4c8771d26b7c51385311453...@bl2prd0510mb385.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> After a couple of years of small drips, my 32 year old Yanmar started leaking 
> transmission fluid at an ounce an hour while motoring last weekend.
> Probably from the forward seal ? where it meets the engine. It?s the big 
> flange ? I?ve tried to get in there to tighten bolts but not been able to 
> move them with the little wrenches I could get into the small spaces. 
> Dockside advice is I?ll have to have the engine pulled. Meanwhile I?m 
> stopping, checking and filling every 2-4 hours if motoring to keep the tranny 
> fluid at normal levels, and catching the leak in a dishpan under the engine.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> If I?m paying for engine in and out, what ELSE would people recommend?
> I?m thinking possibly motor mounts?? and I?ve always had a small oil leak too 
> (I know, they say Yanmars never leak?.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nate Flesness
> ?Sarah Jean?
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior

Paul Eugenio



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Stus-List a $40 life sling? Follow up, it's not!

[dreuge]

Hi,

You may recall the discussion on the list back in February regarding the new 
Revere RescueMax.  I was initially pleased with the device, but discover a 
major manufacturing DEFECT with it this weekend.   I purchased the RescueMax in 
February, but did not install it on my stern rail until the end of March.   I 
have discover that after about 4 months of daily sun exposure, the mounting and 
secure strap webbings are disintegrating to dust.So when the rescueMax is 
deployed, its rope is secured to a ring inside the bag with the mounting and 
secure webbing holding the bag to the boat.  

This is a potential life treating DEFECT! If anyone has a RescueSling, 
check your mounting webbing.


I called Revere this morning, and they told me that they no longer sell the new 
RescueMax.   I then asked if it was recalled, and they told me that they don't 
do that on discontinued items.  I then kindly told them how silly that 
statement was, and I was then told that if I wanted to return it, I should 
contact the place where I purchased it.   I am not that worried about my lost 
investment, but I am extremely concerned for someone who may rely on this item 
for a rescue and by the lack of concern at Revere.  



-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


> {Stus-List} a $40 life sling?
> 
> Colin Kilgour charliekilo552 at gmail.com 
> Wed Feb 1 19:54:24 EST 2012
> 
> Previous message: {Stus-List} a $40 life sling?
> Next message: {Stus-List} Flexofold NA
> Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]
> Never heard of it, but Revere is a reputable name in PFD's so I would
> think it's probably fine.
> 
> Shoot, how wrong can you go for $40?  Buy one, look at it when it
> arrives.  If it looks ok, put it on the rail. (And let us all know).
> If not send it back to Defender.
> 
> Also, at that price, who cares if it's discontinued?  The replacement
> cover for a lifesling is the same price - but doesn't include the
> lifesling!
> 
> (Or if you're feeling flush, get yourself a MOM8 for about 20x the price)
> 
> Cheers
> Colin
> 
> 
> On 2/1/12, Paul Eugenio  wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > Has anyone seen or tested RevereRescueMax Inflatable ManOverBoard Rescue
> > System?
> >
> > I just came across a link (http://www.defender.com/activecaptain.jsp) where
> > you can get this item for $40.  It claims to list for $130, but at $40 I am
> > concerned that sale is too good to be true (i.e., the item is discontinued
> > and/or has problems).
> >
> >
> >
> > -
> > Paul E.
> > s/v Johanna Rose
> > Carrabelle, FL
> >
> >

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Re: Stus-List more on transmission leak/redo seals?

[dreuge]

Hi Nate,

You can get the seals from a Yanmar dealer.   Even though I am not in the 
region serviced by Torresen Marine, I use their online parts catalog for the 
2QM15 as a great reference.  Below is the link to the Yanmar 2QM15 listings.   
See the section under "Gear Housing".

   
www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog.php?owner=mdd&manufacturer=Yanmar&model=2QM15&catalog=Y00R0918


Also, I don't recall which list I read this, but I have read a brilliant 
account of someone using a deflated/inflated basket ball as an air lift jack.   
You can drive over a basket ball with a truck without rupturing it, so I'm sure 
it could withstand the total engine weight easily.This seems like a much 
better choice over a scissor jack, and if you don't have one, you can buy one 
at Walmart for about $8.  While your at Walmart, make the job even easier by 
getting one of the cigarette lighter powered tire inflators for another $10.   

As a final remark, you can lift the rear of the engine using the rear engine 
lift ring and a block and tackle attached to either your boom or interior 
mast(just use a good round hitch to keep from sliding).


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Aug 7, 2012, at 9:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 17:22:41 +
> From: Nate Flesness 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List more on transmission leak/redo seals?
> Message-ID:
>   
> <3d3ec17e62a20f4c8771d26b7c51385311458...@bl2prd0510mb385.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 
> I posted earlier about a 1 one ounce per running hour leak of transmission 
> fluid by my kanazaki-hurth KBW-10 transmission (on a Yanmar 2QM15).  Looks 
> like the ONE area diesel &tranny mechanic (Haukie) is booked solid until 
> Christmaslots of 1980's boats in our area on Lake Superior, all getting 
> older...
> 
> So, encouraged by dockside advisors, I'm reluctantly considering removing it 
> and replacing at least the three seals myself. Access is fairly good from the 
> big lazarettes, I have advice to remove WITH the rear engine mounts attached 
> (will weigh less than 30 lbs), use an inflatable something to support the 
> little 140 lb yanmar aft end, and one of my dockside advisors will help with 
> final alignment of the shaft on reassembly.
> 
> Anyone know where to buy seals and/or other parts?
> 
> Anyone done it with advice to offer?
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior

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Stus-List rebuilding a 2QM15

[dreuge]

Hi,

In early July, I came to my boat after being away for three week and found the 
engine seized.   It was locked up solidly in that it would not budge even a 
little bit even after soaking the cylinders with Marvel Mystery oil for several 
days.  It turned out I  blew head gasket which let salt water into a cylinder.  
   I hauled the engine out with the boom and rebuilt it  for  a cost of only 
parts and machine shop work.  The engine is back in and is working great.  I 
have posted photos online if anyone is interested.   

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/sets/72157631067396554/


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
C&C 29 Mk1
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 water pump

[dreuge]

Hi,

It sound like your belt was on too tight.   

I was informed by a marine mechanic that for this pump, one should be careful 
not to tighten the belt too much, and that it is better to have it a bit loose. 
  The reason is that the water pump on the 2QM15(and some other smaller 
yanmars) have small shaft bearings close together whereas others have larger 
bearings which are spaced a bit more.   A small/close bearing design acts like 
one bearing and cannot handle the constant high torque caused by a tight belt 
like a pump with two spaced bearings can.   I was told of water pumps failures 
just as you have described.   Of course you don't want the belt to slip, but I 
keep mine belt on the loose side of the specs.  You should be able to deflect 
the belt by a good 1/2" when tight.  The manual states the defection should be 
between 0.4 to 0.6 inch defection.




> 
> Graham:
> 
> The pulley was on tight with no apparent misalignment. All seals, spacers, 
> and bearings were new and in the proper order. The bearings and shaft 
> reassembled into he pump housing without problem. Everything looked and felt 
> correct. That is why I am puzzled. 
> 
> Ed


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Stus-List Isaac: Lightning on the hard

[dreuge]

Hi,

On Saturday, the weather predictions had Isaac a cat 2 hurricane heading right 
for us.   The travel lift at my marina was working over time, and by afternoon 
the boat yard ran out of stands and were only hauling out those who had their 
own stands.   My boat remained at the slip, and I prepared for the storm.
Fortunately for us, the path went more to the west, and we experienced tropical 
storm winds and a 5-6 foot surge.  

The only damage occurred to a sailboat which was hauled out.   It was struct by 
lightning which blew out two transducers in the hull and burned a line along 
the hull from the keel forward to a chain which cross-connected the forward 
metal stands( due to the full keel, the chain actually touched the bottom of 
the hull).   The keel was stepped on wooden blocks so it appears that the 
easiest electrical ground path was through the stands.

In short time, this incidence inspired many to ground their boats.  One guy, 
actually has battery cables connecting his shrouds to a piece of rebar pounded 
into the ground.  I never though much about grounding (or bonding) a boat on 
the hard before, but I am not yet convinced that it is a good thing.  Yes, if 
my boat is hit by lightning, I would want it well grounded, but grounding it 
also makes it attract lightning.   As there are now many grounded boats,  It's 
now likely that the safe boats are the ones not grounded.   



-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List Isaac: Lightning on the hard

[dreuge]

Please note that I am talking about lightning on the hard.  I have a keel 
stepped mast which is grounded via a big hunky wire to a keel bolt.   When the 
boat is in the water, it is effectively grounded to the ocean, and that's what 
I want.Out of the water with the keel on  wooden blocks, it is not 
grounded.   

 I am just pointing out that most people don't realize that a boat grounded for 
lightning in the water is not similarly grounded on the hard.   I am also 
noting that in a boat yard with many other sailboats, it may not be necessary 
to make the ground especially if other boats are grounded.That is to say, 
many "cones of protection" provide a canopy.   But that said,  if my boat is on 
the hard and it is the only or one of a few in the yard, it'll likely be 
grounded via grounding rod.  I am not an expert like an electrical engineer, 
just a nuclear physicist.


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Aug 29, 2012, at 5:25 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 20:40:15 +
> From: Martin DeYoung 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Isaac: Lightning on the hard
> Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d6af...@dmi3.dmi.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
>>> ...but grounding it also makes it attract lightning.   As there are now 
>>> many grounded boats,  It's now likely that the safe boats are the ones not 
>>> grounded.   <<
> 
> This statement differs from my understanding, granted I am no expert but I 
> have read much on the topic and have sailed (mid-Pacific, Lake Ontario, and 
> Puget Sound) with lightning striking the water within sight.
> 
> The theory I put the most stock in refers to the difference in potential 
> between the boat and the static charge (lightning's energy).
> 
> For example; if the ocean around your boat all has a plus 2 charge (++) and 
> your mast has a plus 4 charge () then the mast looks better than the near 
> by water.  When underway and faced with a lightning storm I would drag jumper 
> cables, chain, large gauge wire etc over the side with the other end attached 
> to Calypso's rod rigging.
> 
> My expectation is connecting or bonding the sea to the mast would equalize 
> the potential between them reducing the attractiveness of the mast to the 
> lighting energy.
> 
> I am most interested in any experiences that support or refute this strategy 
> in advance of my next lighting storm sail.
> 
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle

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Re: Stus-List How can I tell where a boat was made?

[dreuge]

Hi,


If the hull number starts with "CCY" then it was built in the USA.  Canadian  
built C&C hull numbers have a different manufacturer ID like "CAA" or something 
like that. 


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Aug 31, 2012, at 8:04 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 18:09:58 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Gary Johnson 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List How can I tell where a boat was made?
> Message-ID:
>   <1346375398.21905.yahoomail...@web121406.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I'm very close to purchasing a 38 Landfall and am wondering if it was 
> constructed in Ontario or Rhode Island.? It is a 1983 vintage and have been 
> told that you can tell by looking at?the Hull #.? What am I looking for in 
> the hull #?? Also, can anyone tell me if there is a significant difference in 
> the quality of build between the boats built in RI and those built in 
> Ontario?? Any other advice?? I have sailed many different C&C's (33R, 38 
> Mark?II, 37R, 40, 115) and like them all.? Just want to be an informed buyer.

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Re: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers

[dreuge]

Hi Bob,

If it is ablative as stated, then you should be able to easily sand it off in 
short time.I did my own bottom jab last Fall, and one of my best 
investments was a good quality orbital sander.   I purchased a Dewalt D26453K 
on Amazon for $69.  Using 60 grit disks, I was able to sand down to the barrier 
coat on my 29 mk1 in about an afternoon.A good quality sander will have a 
means of collecting the dust.   The Dewalt comes with a dust bag and you can 
also connect it to a shop vac, but still at least  use a decent respirator 
mask.   


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Sep 5, 2012, at 9:10 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 18:58:22 -0400
> From: "Bob Hickson" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Antifouling removal - chemical strippers
> Message-ID: <001001cd8af0$c92e20c0$5b8a6240$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Facing the nasty task of stripping the bottom paint off the C&C 29 mark 2
> that I bought this spring.
> It has 1 to 2 mm of blue ablative antifouling buildup that looks like the
> face of the moon (lots of craters)
> I was thinking of trying one of the chemical paint strippers.
> 
> Practical Sailor rated the following strippers in order of their preference
>> Franmar - Soy Strip (Best Choice)
>> Back to Nature - Ready Strip (Budget buy)
>> Back to Nature - Aqua Strip (Recoomended)
>> Petite - Bio Blast (Recommended)
> 
> Has anyone tried these products?
> Any comments / words of wisdom?
> How do these products compare to soda / lime / wet sand blasting?
> 
> Once stripped, I am planning to do Interprotect Barrier Epoxy Coat and
> VC17M.
> Planning strip this fall, let it dry over the winter and do the epoxy in the
> spring
> 
> Best regards,
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA
> C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
> (416) 919-2297
> bobhick...@rogers.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List Martec Folding Prop Operation / Yanmar reverse sailing

[dreuge]

For years the official Yanmar recommendation was to put the gear in reverse or 
neutral but never forward.  Only recently (2008) did they change their policy.  
These earlier engines had a Hurth transmission.  Once Yanmar changed 
transmissions to Kanzaki and other non-Hurth gear boxes, they now recommend 
neutral only.  So the current statement is applicable to older and newer 
engines, even though the older ones can still be placed in reverse to lock the 
shaft while sailing.  

I have read that many Kanzaki's do not like to come out of reverse after being 
locked. Yanmar used to advise just starting the engine in reverse then shifting 
to neutral.  While Yanmar used to say reverse or freewheeling, now due to the 
reverse locking and damage to the Kanzaki's cones they now make a statement 
which is safe for all(and great for the folding prop manufactures).   



-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List Reverse Flow on Transom Bilge Outflow

[dreuge]

Hi,

A loop is a good idea, a vented loop even better, but a cost effective solution 
would be to install a simple check valve.  If it is installed down near an 
automatic pump, then you have the added benefit of the valve keeping the hose 
water from filling back into the bilge after the pump shuts off.

I have also seen boats which use only one hose for both electric bilge pumps 
and deck mounted hand bilge pumps (like the Whale Gusher 10).   That is, the 
electric bilge pump hose is routed to the hand pump and then out .  This set up 
is nice as the hand pump acts like a check valve allowing water to flow only 
out, and it uses only one through hole.  


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Sep 12, 2012, at 8:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

>> WE had a race years ago, where we sucked water into the manual bilge pump
>> going 10+ kts downwind under the kite.  Had to run the electric and hand
>> pump to get the water to go back out again, made me think that you might
>> need one of those vacuum breaks in the bilge pump outflow.  Any lister
>> tried those?
>> 
>> ALEX GIANNELIA

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Re: Stus-List - A Favor? ATN Mast Climber

[dreuge]

Hi,

I had a similar problem at first.  In my case, I was trying to go too far down 
in large steps.   I reduced the step down size, and while I now have more step 
downs to take, they are easier and much more comfortable.   


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Sep 13, 2012, at 11:50 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
> Behalf Of Chuck S
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 10:36 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List - A Favor? ATN Mast Climber
> 
> 
> 
> ATN Mastclimber:
> Embarrassing:
> I bought one, tried going up 20 ft no problem, but had trouble getting down.  
> My son, 20 year old, had trouble getting down too.  We opted to use the old 
> bosun chair using two halyards. No problems.  I know we are doing something 
> wrong with the ATN, but couldn't figure it out.  Any tips?
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> 

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Re: Stus-List Inline fuel Pump

[dreuge]

Hi,

Even if your arms were long enough, you still could not bleed the injectors.   
You also will not be able to bleed the injectors with an electric pump.  The 
bulb, lift, or electric pump is good for bleeding lines to the injector pump.  
To bleed injectors, one needs to turn the engine crank so that the injector 
pump provide high pressure fuel to the injectors.  


-
Paul E.
s/v Johanna Rose
C&C 29 mk1
Carrabelle, FL

On Oct 1, 2012, at 2:30 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 14:58:18 -0300
> From: Rich Knowles 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Inline fuel Pump
> Message-ID: <0f8de81c-0960-4563-a25d-4eb48866d...@sailpower.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thanks, Fred. That works with only two small problems: It's still manual 
> labour, and I'd never be able to squeeze it and bleed the injectors at the 
> same time. Arms are too short. 
> 
> I found a Facet 40104 pump for $35 + shipping in Canada. A miracle indeed!
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax

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Re: Stus-List Tacktick instruments

[dreuge]

Hi Fred,

I looked into Tacktick for some time and recently purchased their entry level 
wind system T033.   The T033 wind system went for $619.  The standard wind 
system T101 went for about $1,100.   Both systems use the same T120 mast wind 
transmitter.  The entry level system uses the T030 display which requires a 12V 
supply whereas the standard system uses the T112 which is solar powered.
Other than the power supply, the two displays are similar.   An extra $400+ is 
a lot the convenience of solar.

Raymarine now owns Tacktick, and I have heard that they are retiring the entry 
level systems because sales of the T101 has dropped like a rock(no real 
surprise).   There are still some T033 systems available but they are rapidly 
disappearing.

-
Paul E.
S/V Johanna Rose
C&C 29 mk1
Carrabelle, FL

On Oct 2, 2012, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 08:07:58 -0700
> From: "Fred Hazzard" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Tacktick instruments
> Message-ID: <000601cda0af$b5a45860$20ed0920$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Do any of you have some thoughts or opinions about the Tacktick wireless
> instrument systems?
> 
> 
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> 
> S/V Fury
> 
> C&C 44

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Stus-List Dyneema baby stay

[dreuge]

Hi,

I am looking for a solution to help make my baby stay more easily removable.  I 
presently have a standard 1x19 SS cable turn buckle set up, and I plan to 
install a pelican-like hook attachment.   I have a colleague who is replacing 
his SS lifelines with Dyneema line.  This got me to think about using Dyneema 
for the baby stay.Does anyone have any experience in using a Dyneema 
solution for any rigging arrangements?


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


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Re: Stus-List Muffler

[dreuge]

Hi,

My stainless lift muffler from 1979 lasted until last year.   I looked into 
re-welding a new 316 SS bottom plate, but it turned out to be better and 
cheaper to replace with a new Vernalift muffler.   I had a problem finding a 
vender with the right muffler size in stock, so I called the factory.   They 
sent me one direct and charged me much less than list price to boot...   

See http://www.centekindustries.com/vernalift.html

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Oct 23, 2012, at 11:38 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Abbott
> Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 11:27 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Muffler
> 
> Just curious, does anyone know the 'life expectancy' of the metal water
> muffler(s) on our boats (realizing that a fresh water vs a salt water
> environment may be a factor)?
> 
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.

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Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow COSTS

[dreuge]

Hi,

I just wanted to point out that many of the Yanmar exhaust parts are available 
at much more reasonable price.   For example, the common mixing elbow 
(124070-13520 Mixing Elbow) which  Bob pointed out lists for $270, can be 
purchased much cheaper from several vendors.   I purchased one recently for 
$69.95 from MMI Seattle.



See:

http://www.mmiseattle.com/e/manifolds_e_hge_yanmar.htm
   and here for more details
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/YAN-D-EXH/Exhaust+Parts+for+Yanmar+Diesel+Inboards




-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Nov 16, 2012, at 5:23 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2012 13:56:30 -0400
> From: Robert Abbott 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow pluggage question/survey
> Message-ID: <50a67e4e.60...@eastlink.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Rich et al:
> 
> When I quoted $533 for the whole assembly I meant 4 pieces not just 
> one...those being, 128370-13610 Elbow = $208.62; 104214-13580 Joint = 
> $46.06; 128370-13201 Gasket = $7.87; 124070-13520 Mixing Elbow = $270.93;
> 
> I would be interested however in getting your quote info on the mixing 
> elbow with the water inlet that connects the 2" hose to the muffler
> Regards
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow COSTS

[dreuge]

Hi Rich,


I thought I would mention one more point which may be obvious to some but was a 
real forehead slapper when it was mentioned to me.

During reinstallation, use Nickel anti-seize or a marine-grade anti-seize.  The 
standard anti-seize (or Never-Seize) contains zinc which in this application is 
not what you want in a saltwater environment.

Paul

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Nov 20, 2012, at 9:46 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 23:39:02 -0400
> From: Robert Abbott 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow COSTS
> Message-ID: <50aafb56.2070...@eastlink.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Rich:
> 
> Thank you for the comments on this and for the info on where to obtain 
> one here in Halifax.  While mine is not causing me problems at the 
> moment, (that I know of) I think I will replace it now and not wait for 
> it to failit is 28 years old.
> I witnessed the failure of one on a Beneteau 31...everything you 
> described, filling of the boat interior with soot, fumes and dirty 
> water.yep, not prettynay, down right ugly!
> Regards
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 3 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.

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Stus-List Re: Hurricane prep.

[Dreuge]

Sally was a surprise.  The day before, Sally was heading to New Orleans, then 
it stopped moving, and when the wobbling was over, it was heading right for 
Flora-Bama with the worst of the storm east of the eye.  The Fort Walton Beach 
area took a beating.  The forecast went from 30ish knt tropical storm winds to 
hurricane force winds with record breaking flooding. Yes, our club is also good 
at requiring all vessels to vacate when a hurricane warning is issued, and if 
one does not leave, then the club would anchor the vessel out, charge the owner 
for the service, and, as per FL law, not be liable for any resulting damages.   
But it all happened so quick that it was just too late.   We had to weather it 
out at the docks.  The flooding was several feet higher than anything I seen 
there before, but surprisingly not too much damage except for shredded canvas 
as many dodgers and biminis were left out fully opened.  We benefited greatly 
from the wind direction coming from the south-east with the clubhouse and a 
small strip of land providing some protection.But we also feel that because 
the water level was several feet over the docks, that the wooden docks took 
less of a  pounding compared to some recent tropical storms.   I am sure that 
for the next gulf storm our commodore will order an evacuation much earlier 
even if the storm ends up in Brownville, TX.  Life is full of lessons.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 16, 2020, at 7:06 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 22:17:28 + (UTC)
> From: cenel...@aol.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Hurricane prep.
> To: capt...@gmail.com , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> 
> Message-ID: <2127038029.3198586.1600294648...@mail.yahoo.com 
> >
> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>   boundary="=_Part_3198585_162278239.1600294648846"
> 
> --=_Part_3198585_162278239.1600294648846
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> Hopefully the damage to your boat and dock=C2=A0won=E2=80=99t be too extens=
> ive.
> Our club requires boats over about 24 ft to vacate their slip when a hurric=
> ane warning is issued for the county. Most anchor in a nearby fairly wide a=
> nd deep (in NC deep is 7 ft or more!)=C2=A0creek that our marina abuts. Som=
> e get hauled out at local boatyards. Either way, the dock has a better chan=
> ce of surviving without the boats.
> Of course, anchoring is also=C2=A0a crap shoot since other=E2=80=99s boats =
> can drag and take another ashore or aground.
> I anchored=C2=A0Water Phantom before Iasias came thru. Since=C2=A0I was tra=
> veling for the next several weeks (during=C2=A0the peak hurricane season) I=
> left her=C2=A0there (saw her yesterday!)=C2=A0with 2 anchors (~60 lb and 3=
> 0 lb danforths). My plan is to leave her there until early October. Current=
> ly she shares the=C2=A0creek with only 1 other boat.
> =C2=A0I=C2=A0took the=C2=A0headsail down and wrapped, secured mainsail and =
> boom (good) and=C2=A0turned everything but=C2=A0the ACR off (bad) since it =
> was =E2=80=98new=E2=80=99 to me and as I left the boat didn=E2=80=99t reali=
> ze that it drew some amps(about 15 mA)=E2=80=94hopefully after 10 weeks I w=
> ill still have some battery power left!
> Good luck to all in any hurricane=E2=80=99s path=E2=80=94no matter how well=
> you prepare your boat, ultimately it comes down to luck and your insurance=
> .=C2=A0=C2=A0Unfortunately, neither=C2=A0life nor anchoring is risk free.
> Charlie NelsonWater Phantom

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Stus-List HTML/XML code in messages

[Dreuge]

Hi,

Has anyone found a solution to eliminate the html/xml code that is now coming 
in on some digest messages?   I am finding most of these messages are 
unreadable.





-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Stus-List Isotemp SPA water heater in a LF38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

Does anyone have any bad experiences with Isotemp SPA water heaters?  I can’t 
find any reviews regarding the SPA line of heaters online.  I am planning on 
installing either the SPA 25 (6.5 gal) or the SPA 30 (8 gal) on a LF38.For 
some reason, the price only differs by $9, but my main consideration will be 
space restrictions.  

 I plan to locate the water heater either in the usual location, starboard of 
the engine, or low in the old starboard berth, which is now halfway converted 
into a nav station. 


As always any comments are truly welcomed.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 117, Issue 59

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Good luck to anyone trying to get parts from Mass Marine.I tried several 
years ago to purchase the 1977 C&C 29 table.  After many emails and phone 
calls, I was told that they can’t find it, and that the website is not up to 
date.   They still have the table listed...


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 16, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2015 14:57:32 GMT
> From: "Danny Haughey" mailto:djhaug...@juno.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List  - Dodger for a C&C 29
> Message-ID: <20151016.105732.1821...@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Hi, I was doing a search and came across this at mass marine parts if anyone 
> might be interested. http://www.massmarineparts.com/dodger.aspx 
>  Looks good in the pics.  Not 
> sure if it would fit other models than the 29. I have absolutely no 
> affiliation with Mass Marine parts other than having bought a couple of 
> things there Danny
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
>   
> >

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Re: Stus-List Engine Overheat Question

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Al,

This sounds like a similar problem I experienced with my old C&C 29 which had a 
raw water cooled 2QM15.The alarm only came on only after the engine was 
shutdown for a short period of time and then restarted.   I would even let the 
engine cool at idle speed for a good few minutes before shutting down.  I tried 
many things, and listened to may good suggestions (air lock, pump wear, …), but 
in the end the problem turned out to be a bad thermostat sender.

Maybe that’s your issue too.  Do you have a separate sender for the alarm and 
for the gauge? If so, then it is unlikely that both would be bad.  But if not, 
I would start there.

Paul


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 19, 2015, at 9:03 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2015 16:08:19 -0700
> From: Al Serrato mailto:aserrat...@yahoo.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Engine Overheat Question
> Message-ID: <411a5ff3-f777-4f52-9bf4-0d90cac65...@yahoo.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> I'm looking for advice on a situation that arose yesterday. I have a 34 with 
> a 3GMD diesel with raw water cooling. I motored for about 45 minutes at 2000 
> rpm and then shut the engine down. Everything was running smoothly. The temp 
> gauge showed the normal 100 degrees and I could hear water from the exhaust. 
> I sailed for about half hour but then lost the wind and turned the motor on. 
> The high temp alarm stayed on and the gauge showed 140 degrees.  I shut it 
> down and checked the water filter, which looked fine. I tried starting it a 
> couple more times with the same result, so I sailed back to my harbor. When I 
> went to start it, everything worked fine again, and I ran the motor for a 
> good 30 minutes with no issues. The gauge stayed at 100 the whole time and no 
> alarm.
> 
> I initially thought it might have been the impeller (which is about 1.5 years 
> old right now), but when the problem arose I didn't check for the sound of 
> exhaust water. Since it was working back at the harbor, I don't think the 
> impeller was bad. I'm starting to think that the sending unit malfunctioned 
> and then reset itself somehow but that's never happened before. 
> 
> I'm not sure what temp triggers the high temp alarm and whether the same 
> sending unit goes to both the alarm and the gauge.
> 
> Am I missing something obvious? 
> Were there other steps I should have taken to diagnose it? I was of course 
> concerned to run the engine for long if it was overheating.
> What next steps should I take, since everything seems fine right now.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> Al Serrato
> C & C 34
> Fidelity
> San Francisco Bay

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Gary,

I am surprised that you have 1/4” acrylic.  To have the strength acrylic should 
be more like 3/8”.  

Are you sure you don’t have 1/4” polycarbonate?

I recently replaced all of the fixed ports on my LF38 using 1/4” Makrolon 
(abrasion & UV resistance polycarbonate), 3M VHB tape, and Dow 795.  

I have pictures and a discussion of the process at: 
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts

Paul

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 21, 2015, at 8:08 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2015 21:16:09 -0400
> From: Gary Russell mailto:captnga...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I am starting the process of replacing the side windows on High Maintenance
> (1990 C&C 37 Plus).  The windows have been replaced before (not original)
> and are currently 1/4" acrylic.  Is that the right thickness?  I've seen in
> some places references to 3/8" windows.  So were the original windows 1/4"
> or 3/8"?
> 
> Thanks,
> Gary
> s/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA

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Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

This may make sense for a quick haul out jobs of days, but stripping in the 
Fall and repainting in the Spring would be the ideal for barrier coating.   


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 21, 2015, at 7:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: Fred Hazzard mailto:fshazz...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint stripping
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I spoke the yard today about barrier coating.  Their experience was it
> trapped moisture which causes the barrier coat to fail.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
> On Oct 21, 2015 1:26 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"  >
> wrote:
> 
>> I am planning to strip all the old bottom paint off this fall and repaint
>> in the spring

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Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Robert,

The barnacle remains are called basal plates. If you are concerned about 
over sanding
than take a look at Barnacle Buster.  You spray it on, let it devolve the basal 
plates, and wash it off.
This stuff is great, but you need to keep it wet.

Here are two links providing info.   The first one is a write up in Practical 
Sailor on using Barnacle Buster in a "Barnacle Remover Test “.  The second info 
link, is a brochure. 

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/33_5/chandlery/5439-1.html

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Trac_Ecological/TDS_Barnacle_Buster_2011.pdf
 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 6:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:11:01 -0300
> From: robert mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
> Message-ID: <562934c5.7040...@eastlink.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
> 
> For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3 
> seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no 
> slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.
> 
> This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot 
> a few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, 
> which removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but 
> there are still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will 
> sand them out completely or simply paint over them next Spring.
> 
> Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?

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Re: Stus-List C&C smile with a G/flex lipstick

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

The quote seem a tad high.  I hope it includes a lot of other work too.


I repaired the smile myself on a C&C 29 back in 2011.   I sold her back in 2014 
smile free.   

I tightened the keel bolts and used G/flex pretty much as described in the 
message below.  There are also several good discussions from others regarding 
C&C smile repairs (just follow the thread).

http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-September/040461.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 27, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2015 09:38:47 -0400
> From: Harald Braun  >
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List C&C smile
> Message-ID: <562f7e67.3070...@davenportcatering.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed
> 
> Hi, i have the C & C smile on my 1985 Mk 3 and want to know if anybody 
> has repaired it or had it done. I got a quote for 4 400.00 can. the 
> crack is not very deep.
> 
> cheers
> Harald
> from Spirit

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

This is in line with what I head about cotter rings(in addition to snagging on 
sheets): 

“Banish the “key ring” shaped cotter rings from your sailboat 
rigging for good. They have a 
nasty reputation of backing out of a fitting from vibration or 
stress" 

(http://www.skippertips.com/public/2102.cfm)




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 10:17 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2015 07:11:22 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
> Message-ID: <25792789-1764-430b-827b-bd34f6edb...@gmail.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Had rings in the shroud turnbuckles on my previous boat. Was awakened one 
> night by a gentle whacking coming from a galley cabinet. A search discovered 
> nothing. 
> 
> They next morning just before getting underway I noticed a lower shroud 
> bouncing against the cabin side.  On the deck were the Clevis pin and its 
> cotter ring.
> 
> I use cotter keys now. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 27, 2015, at 9:11 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I saw a boat recently which had large cotter rings through the turnbuckles 
>> instead of cotter pins.  This looked like a great idea to me as I sometimes 
>> find it difficult to get bent cotter pins back out of the turnbuckles. Any 
>> down side of using rings instead of pins?  Dave

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Stus-List snow?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Fred,

We suffer all summer.   So now that it is over, it is time to enjoy some nice 
sailing weather.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 5:06 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> 
> p.s. ? I just looked out the window, and there?s some weird white flaky stuff 
> falling from the sky?   :^(   Dennis, got your boards ready?

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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface -> 12V WiFi

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

The Linksys WRT54GL is 12V.This is what I use with the Ubiquiti Bullet M2.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 5:06 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2015 20:48:17 +
> From: Kevin Driscoll  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Signal K interface
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Most wifi routers are 12v. Just cut off the 110v power brick. Did this on
> our router/boat. Works the same.
> 
> On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 1:39 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
>> You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179.  :-)
>> Now I need a 12v WiFi router.
>> 
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11

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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Marek,

Thanks for the added info in the LinkSys wrt54gl. It just happened that I 
had one of these 
units not being used at home, and I noticed that the AC/DC power supply allowed 
for direct 
12V DC powering.  I cut off the brick and used the remaining cord to provide 
the DC power. It 
has been working fine for many months.  

I just search on the open firmware feature you mention, and wow, I am impressed 
at what 
is available.  

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 29, 2015, at 8:45 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2015 23:02:34 -0400
> From: Marek Dziedzic mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Signal K interface
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Some older ones might be better. You don't need much range or bandwidth on
> the boat, so you might find 11g to be more energy efficient. Unless the AP
> is using sophisticated power management and gears down to maintain the
> lowest required level of signal (some of the better 11ac). Regardless, you
> want one where the transmit power can be adjusted to conserve the energy.
> That wrt54gl can be loaded with an open firmware, which offers plenty of
> options. It uses about 5-6 W (~0.5 A); an interesting feature is that it can
> easily run on from 5 V to (supposedly) 40 V DC. This means that it can
> easily run off the batteries, even if the voltage fluctuates.
> 
> 
> 
> Marek
> 
> 

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Stus-List race to cuba: Deja Vu

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I just checked to see how the race was going for Deja Vu.   At 9:00AM, Steve 
Thorne is just shy of the finish by 1.7NM.  Given delays in reporting data, he 
has likely finished.  Congratulations!

Reading the news updates from the race website is interesting.  "Several of the 
boats that have finished— and many still on the course— have used their engines 
for propulsion. Calculating the adjusted corrected times of all the boats will 
be complex.” 


Recall last year Steve gave us an update on Deja Vu’s experiences in the Regata 
Al Sol, the race from Pensacola to Isla Mujeras.   In short, he shared his 
experience with the steering failure due to not easily seen idler plate 
corrosion.   

After reading about Steve’s report, I went and thoroughly checked my steering 
idler.  Mine was steering failure in waiting…  I wrote about it on the Johanna 
Rose blog: 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/11/replacing-steering-cross-wire-idlers.html


Thanks to everyone for these after reports.  



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List converting TOD results to TOT

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Here is another example:

Corrected time = Elapsed time * 650/(550 + PHRF). 


I lifted this from the “The Racer’s Guide to Time on Time Scoring" by Russ 
Cardoza


See:  
http://www.biyc.bc.ca/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/racersguide.pdf 




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 6, 2015, at 9:58 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 6 Nov 2015 09:47:50 -0500
> From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List converting TOD results to TOT
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Pete,
> 
> What is your TOT formula (it?s different in different places)? 
> 
> We use C = E * (600 / (480 + P)) 
> 
> Not everyone uses the 600 and 480 numbers. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  >
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I used epoxy filled 50-50 with colloidal silica & 3M glass bubbles. Without 
the 3M bubbles, sanding the thickened silica epoxy mix is like sanding a rock.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> On Nov 9, 2015, at 6:48 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2015 18:53:53 -0900
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I'm not convinced that repairing the gel-coat is critical unless the damage
> extends beyond that which is hidden by the window and glazing.  I'd just
> use silica filled epoxy.  Scrub it well to remove the amine blush and then
> maybe give it a little tooth by sanding it dull.  The typical 80 grit might
> be a little much but just remove the shine.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 8, 2015 9:48 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  >

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I just looked up my McMaster-Carr order, and I used 5952 series 3M VHB tape. I 
updated the “new portlights” on the Johanna Rose blog to reflect this along 
with the  McMaster-Carr part numbers.

The 5952 series is black and is 3/16” think.  In my case, with the 1/4” 
polycarbonate, this thickness was perfect. It provided enough of a gap for the 
Dow 795 with the portlight ending up slightly proud of cabin surface.  I would 
not try to double up the thickness.  I think it is more important to put a good 
bevel on the inner edge to help the sealant flow underneath and around the edge 
to form a good beaded adhesive seal.

I looked into using Sika with the VHB tape, but after researching, I found that 
there were many good reports of long-term success using the Dow 795.  To add to 
this track record, Dow 795 is much easier to work with and costs about $8 per 
10.3oz cartridge (both big pluses for the DIY-er).


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/new-fixed-ports.html 




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 11:27 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The attached PDF had pretty good guidance.  I would choose the thickest
> tape which can still fit under the windows.  Maybe even double layers.  I
> have a friend who used the 4941 series.  After looking at the PDF it looks
> like the 5952 series has better adhesive qualities and possibly higher
> adhesion for the fiberglass and polycarbonate that we're using.  The 5958FR
> has the highest PSI to thickness ratio.  I suggest thicker to allow the
> tape to press into any irregularities.  Thicker also allows for more
> differential expansion of the glass and frame.
> 
> As much as I like the VHB tape I still can't help but think to the auto
> industry.  They use a urethane made by Sika for windshields.  It has to be
> primed and heated.  It cures in about an hour.  I wonder if a combination
> of VHB tape and sika-flex might be smart.  VHB to get a nice interior
> finish and sika for a permanent weatherproof bond and glazing.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Besides being bulletproof,  a good reason for using polycarbonate is that it is 
much more flexible than acrylic.  You do not have to force it, it will almost 
noodle its way to fit on the curved surface.   The drawback of using 
polycarbonate: cost, UV degradation, and surface scratching, are less of an 
issue these days.  Bayer makes an extended abrasion and UV resistance 
polycarbonate called  Makrolon 15.  A piece of 1/4" x 10" x 43" transparent 
grey goes for $35 at EStreetPlastics.com .



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 11:27 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> I am not sure, but it seems to me that for bonding windows to the cabin top, 
> this might be an issue if the windows are curved. Curved windows would try to 
> detach themselves from the fibreglass to which they are attached. So unless 
> you have some other way of keeping them curved, the tape might not be the 
> best option.
> 
> just a thought.
> 
> Marek

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Bruno,

I solved this problem by aligning the windows before removing the protecting 
film from the VHB tape and hanging the windows in place with two strips of wide 
masking tape from the top side(like two big hinges). You can take the time to 
align the space just as you want(i.e. readjust the masking tape), then lift the 
window up from the bottom while it is still hanging from the masking tape, 
remove the VHB film, and gently swing the window into place.   This is how did 
it with ports up to 50” long on the LF38. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 11:27 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> It can be a one person job, but it is not that easy to hold the window and 
> stick it leveled with an even gap around. Remember these are no small ports, 
> and mine are not even that big being sprit in the middle.  And i had to learn 
> it the hard way...Yes i screwed it the first time. It slipped of my fingers 
> and... too late, it was stuck on the tape! Shit!! I had to very quickly 
> remove the acrilyc that was partly installed and begin all over again. Not 
> easy to remove the tape but doable. I tried the match stick method to space 
> the window but ended up feel the gap with my fingers and with luck it was a 
> success! 

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Re: Stus-List Please trim your messages

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Untrimmed messages are not just an announce (especially to digest readers), but 
it is a waste of online storage which costs $$!

I know this may seem obvious to some, but JUST HIGHLIGHT the part of the 
message you are responding to and THEN click reply.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Maybe you did not have a clean surface for the VHB tape to properly bond.   

I broke off the passenger rearview mirror from my car when my spinnaker pole 
rolled off of the car roof(it was one of those moments).  The mirror was only 
hanging by the adjustment cable.  At first, like anyone, I used some duct tape 
to hold it back on, but after that failed I used some left over VHB tape.  I 
cleaned the surfaces with MEK, and stuck the mirror back on with VHB tape.  I 
have almost forgotten that it is broken.   That was last spring, and so far the 
VHB tape has survived the FL summer heat without any issues.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2015 11:44:35 -0500
> From: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> Message-ID: <2a6b8538-8a2e-4596-8be8-edda6d91f...@icloud.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> While this may not apply to windows, I used VHB tape to bond my one solar 
> panel to a corrugated plastic sheet used to keep the solar panel cool on my 
> hard dodger.  After a year and a half I had to replace the VHB tape because 
> it got gummy from the heat and allowed the solar panel to slide aft by about 
> an inch.  I changed the design since so I didn't have to rely on the VHB 
> tape.  The funny part is that the VHB tape was not under any significant 
> load.  I would really have my doubts about the longevity of VHB tape on 
> windows without some other sealant or adhesive.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

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Re: Stus-List Changing weight distribution in Landfall 38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I was thinking the exact same thing regarding a windlass and the need for 
starting if you split up the home bank leaving one bank(or just one battery) 
aft for emergency starting.   

As suggested, you should protect the wires at the battery, but rather than 
adding breakers, I suggest using a battery switch close to and MRBF terminal 
fuse blocks right on the battery.  Here is a great link :  
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/743190-post1.html

Waytek  has great prices.  Same product as Blue Sea but less than half the 
cost.   (http://www.waytekwire.com/products?pSearch=mrbf)




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 19, 2015, at 4:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2015 15:59:34 -0500
> From: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Changing weight distribution in Landfall 38
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> When you add the windlass you'll have the battery!
> 
> On Thu, Nov 19, 2015 at 3:51 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
>> Thats a good idea for the rare, if ever, occasion arises.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
>> 
>>> On Nov 19, 2015, at 3:27 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>>> 
>>> If it will be very rare to ever need a v-berth house battery for engine
>> starting, how about, if the need were to arise, disconnect one of the
>> v-berth batteries, take it aft, and use some jumper cables to get the
>> engine started.
>>> Bob M
>>> Ox 33-1
>>> Jax. FL
>>> 
>>> 

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Re: Stus-List small start battery for yanmar 3hmf

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

My first impression is to be skeptical of using a motorcycle battery to start a 
much higher compression diesel engine.  

So these batteries claim 270 CCA of power and 18Ah of energy.  So is this good 
enough?   I think it is reasonable to assume that a starter will consume less 
than 270A of current during a start.  At least I know that my Yanmar 3QM30 uses 
less than 300A since I have 300A MRBF fuse at the battery(And I am sure that 
250A fuse would work fine too).  To be generous, let’s assume that one cranks 
the starter for 10 seconds.  This amounts to 270A * 10s / 3600 h/s which is 
0.75Ah.  Good for many starts without charging.  This also implies that an 18Ah 
battery should turn the starter for about 18Ah*3600s/h/270A = 240 seconds or 
about 4 minutes (of course nobody should crank this long).

Another concern are battery fires, but as I just read  Lithium-Iron batteries 
are not  Lithium-Ion batteries.   Li-Fe are supposed to be safer.   Wikipedia 
has a nice article on Lithium-Iron batteries:   
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery.   

But still, just google “Lithium-Iron Powersports battery fire” and one of the 
first links is a YouTube video titled “Shorai battery fire”.Amazon has many 
good review, but one bad one titled “Do NOT order this battery”  describes the 
battery catching fire and shows an image of a burnt up battery.

Another Amazon review points out the misleading Ah ratings.   Here is a quote 
from the review,” The stated Ah rating of 18Ah is only an "amp-hour pb 
equivalent" used to compare it to lead-acid batteries in terms of starting 
power. The actual rating is only 6Ah - which is on a little sticker on the 
bottom of the battery when it arrived, but stated nowhere online that I could 
find.”   

The manufacture claim that the Li-Fe battery should be charged with voltages 
between 13.1V and 15V with a maximum charging current of 10Amps.   This seems 
like a nice match for a motorcycle but not for for a multi-bank battery system 
unless one rigs up a trickle charge system for the Li-Fe (maybe a Xantrex’s 
echo charge). 

So the bottomline is that it has 6Ah of energy rather than 18Ah (80 seconds of 
max start time), and while they claim to charge fast, manufacture specify that 
max charge voltage be no great than 15V and max charging current be no more 
than 10A.   The later, may be an issue with typical +80Amp marine alternators.

With only 6Ah for the price , I still remain skeptical, but see some future 
promise.  It is rather bogus that manufactures are using “EqAh” ratings to fool 
people into thinking that the stored energy is greater than actual. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 1, 2015, at 10:22 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> This was recommended for a 2gmf yanmar:
> 
> 
> 
> "Shorai makes a nice, lightweight, Lithium-Iron motorcycle battery: 
> http://shoraipower.com/lfx18a1-bs12-p86 
> 
> It starts my Harley easily and weighs about 2 pounds.  It?s also smaller than 
> most motorcycle batteries.  That's a lot of power in a small package."
> 
> My question: would this same battery work for a 3HMF, and would the charger 
> recommendation be the same?  I like this idea a lot...!
> 
> 
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

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Re: Stus-List small start battery for yanmar 3hmf

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Josh,

I looked into this a bit more, and while I still think it is wrong to use 
“EqAh”, the concept is not as misleading as I originally thought.

The claim is the depth of discharge for Li-Fe batteries is 95% whereas for 
lead-acid batteries this is 50%.  In other words, a 110Ah lead-acid battery has 
only 55Ah of usable deep cycle capacity whereas a 110Ah Li-Fe battery would 
have 105Ah of usable deep cycle capacity.  This would give a 6 Ah Li-Fe battery 
12 EqAh_deep_cycle.  [at this time the largest capacity is only 12 Ah (36 EqAh) 
~$300]

For engine starting, the capacity drain at higher loads is non-linear for lead 
acid batteries due to high internal battery resistance.   That is 1A draw for 
110hr would completely drain a 110Ah lead-acid battery, but at 150A the battery 
would drain out in 1/4 hr (or even much less, not 3/4 hr as 110Ah capacity 
suggests). The claim is that the Li-Fe batteries have much less internal 
resistance which why they use the “EqAh” (or AH PBEq).

It is sort of like using Watts to measure lightbulb intensity. 

Below is an interesting exercise demonstrating why we likely have not 
heard much about Li-Fe battery for marine deep cycle use. 


*** Two energy-wise equivalent deep cycle battery banks ***

Duracell EGC2   6V golf cart batteries  [Batteries Plus $109.99   64 lbs]
12V 230Ah  (115 Ah usable) battery bank  (2  batteries)
total cost: $220   
total weight:  128 lbs

LFX36A3-BS12 Shorai 12v 36 AH PBEq LiFePO4 Power Sports Battery 
[BatteryStuff.com $295.95  5 lbs]
12V 120Ah (114 Ah usable) battery bank(10  batteries)
total weight: 50 lbs
total cost: $2959.50


On the other hand, someone may be willing to spend $300 for a 540CCA battery 
that weighs in at only 4.96 pounds,
 has a foot print of Length 6.5" x  Width 3.4" x Height 6.1”, and can be 
mounted in any orientation(even upside down).




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 1, 2015, at 2:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2015 13:35:47 -0600
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List small start battery for yanmar 3hmf
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Paul,
> 
> When this discussion came up in the past someone quoted the yanmar owners
> manual as stating that the minimum CCA of a starting battery should be 200.
> 
> I really appreciate the added research into the eqAh rating.   That is some
> misleading bullshit.
> 
> As for charging at the rated amperage of 10amps the IIRC the echo-charge
> will charge at up to 15 amps.  Maybe close enough to not cause any problems.
> 
> It probably wouldn't be ABYC compliant but the li-po jump starters come
> with a cigarette lighter re-charge cable.  It would be possible to hardwire
> power to the charger from the house batteries AND hard wire the alligator
> clamps to the starter.  This would ensure that only the li-po started the
> engine and that it only got charged by the appropriate charger.
> 
> Josh

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Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I need to replace the lens on the little hatches in the galley and head.  I 
believe these are Atkins & Hoyle model 550 single frame hatches (discontinued). 
 

Does anyone know of a reasonable source for new lenses?   I contacted A&H and 
they want $325 for a single lens.   Or has anyone made their own replacement 
lenses?  For the most part they look like 1/2” grey acrylic 15-1/4” x 8”  with 
a routered gasket groove on the inside.  Making the groove would seem tricky.


 
Here is a photo: 
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cQwWT5f4T5s/VlxR-3M0xvI/IR0/31kUx-Mliz0/s1600/%2B-%2BVersion%2B2.jpg
 



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,

As I mentioned on the list before, there is a simple solution for the tricky 
part.  

Before removing the protective film on the VHB tape, align the window exactly 
where you want it and run two wide strips of masking tape down from the cabin 
top
onto the window spaced out like hinges. Then gently swing up the window, 
remove the VHB protective film, gently swing back down, and press firmly.  Easy 
and 
accurate for one person to do even for ports over 50".

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 2, 2015, at 8:58 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> #7.  Now cones the tricky part.  You only get one shot with the VHB tape,
> because once it is down, it is not coming up.  I tried adhering two small
> pieces of acrylic to each other with about two square inches of VHB tape,
> and I can assure you, you won?t pull them apart.  VHB is amazing stuff.  As
> a guide, I mounted two small wooden blocks to the masking take below the
> window with a small piece of VHB tape.  By attaching it to the masking
> tape, I was sure I could get it back off.  Actually, VHB doesn?t stick very
> well to masking tape anyway.  I also stuck a small wooden block to the
> masking tape at one end of the window as well.  This allowed me to set the
> window on the two bottom block and then slide it over to the end block
> before pushing the window into place.  By all means, make several trial
> runs with the film still on the VHB tape before removing the film.  Once
> the film is off you are committed.  I pushed the window in place and it
> looked perfect.  Then it is simply a matter of squirting the Dow Corning
> stuff into the gap and smoothing it out with a finger.  As soon as the
> silicon is smoothed out, you can remove the masking tape and pour yourself
> a stiff one, while you admire the fine job you have done.

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Stus-List Here's why it is better to sail the gulf-side of FL

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

It is a potential “All is Lost “ * 25

COAST GUARD CONTINUES TO INVESTIGATE CAUSE OF CONTAINERS LOST FROM BARGE OFF 
FLA. COAST

http://www.uscgnews.com/go/doc/4007/2748438/






-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Stus-List replacing a wheel autopilot motor

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I just posted some information about replacing the DC motor in a wheel 
autopilot.  The motor in my SPX-5 recently died.  I purchased the same motor 
which Raymarine uses for $6.95, installed it, and it’s working.


If anyone is interested, here is the link:  
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/12/replacing-burnt-out-wheel-autopilot.html



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 119, Issue 61

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Patrick,

My  mainsheet block is  attached to the mast collar.  I have a block lead like 
the one you mention, it is used for the rigid vang control, in my case a Selden 
Rodkicker 20.


I have a photo of the set up on the blog where I describe replacing the gas 
shock for the rodkicker.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/11/repairing-broken-selden-rodkicker.html



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 21, 2015, at 11:07 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2015 20:50:43 -0800
> From: Patrick Davin mailto:jda...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List How to attach a rigid boom vang on LF38
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a Garhauer rigid vang. Only problem - the dang
> mainsheet block lead is in the way. It's mounted on deck in the standard
> location a few inches behind the mast collar, then the main sheet runs
> vertically up to a boom block. If I mount the boom vang to port of the main
> sheet, it'll bind / rub on a starboard broad reach (I think). Or similarly
> for the other side.
> 
> How have other LF38 owners attached a rigid vang? I'm sure there are more
> than just one who have made the upgrade.
> 
> Wally has some good writeups on his running rigging and moving his main
> sheet padeye. But, it's not clear to me exactly how he ran the vang, and it
> seems like he was unhappy with how the main sheet padeye move worked out
> (it ended up being in the way). And I'm not sure if he ever installed the
> rigid vang he was thinking of upgrading to.
> 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/runrig/mapadeye/mpad.htm 
> 
> 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/runrig/pad2/pad2.htm 
> 
> 
> I know from the archives that Nick of "Parbleu!" installed a Garhauer vang,
> but he didn't mention anything of changing the leads.
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-January/036831.html 
> 
> 
> Maybe it doesn't matter because although the mainsheet will get bent a bit
> by the vang, the smooth metal won't be enough to chafe it or make trimming
> difficult? Or does everyone move their main sheet padeye?
> 
> Here's a pic of the current layout:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NY0ZoeVBpV244UDQ/view?usp=sharing 
> 
> 
> Main sheet is the red one, and the turning block immediately to stbd of it
> (white line with blue/black tracers) is the current non-rigid vang attached
> to the mast collar. That one binds too, but it's not too bad because the
> block+shackle gets it out far enough that usually just the blocks are
> hitting.
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List How to attach a rigid boom vang on LF38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Sorry, I forgot to change the subject heading before.
———


Patrick,

My  mainsheet block is  attached to the mast collar.  I have a block lead like 
the one you mention, it is used for the rigid vang control, in my case a Selden 
Rodkicker 20.


I have a photo of the set up on the blog where I describe replacing the gas 
shock for the rodkicker.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/11/repairing-broken-selden-rodkicker.html



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> 
>> On Dec 21, 2015, at 11:07 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2015 20:50:43 -0800
>> From: Patrick Davin mailto:jda...@gmail.com> 
>> >>
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
>> >" 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> >>
>> Subject: Stus-List How to attach a rigid boom vang on LF38
>> Message-ID:
>>  > >  
>> >>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I'm thinking of getting a Garhauer rigid vang. Only problem - the dang
>> mainsheet block lead is in the way. It's mounted on deck in the standard
>> location a few inches behind the mast collar, then the main sheet runs
>> vertically up to a boom block. If I mount the boom vang to port of the main
>> sheet, it'll bind / rub on a starboard broad reach (I think). Or similarly
>> for the other side.
>> 
>> How have other LF38 owners attached a rigid vang? I'm sure there are more
>> than just one who have made the upgrade.
>> 
>> Wally has some good writeups on his running rigging and moving his main
>> sheet padeye. But, it's not clear to me exactly how he ran the vang, and it
>> seems like he was unhappy with how the main sheet padeye move worked out
>> (it ended up being in the way). And I'm not sure if he ever installed the
>> rigid vang he was thinking of upgrading to.
>> 
>> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/runrig/mapadeye/mpad.htm 
>>  
>> > >
>> 
>> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/runrig/pad2/pad2.htm 
>>  
>> > >
>> 
>> I know from the archives that Nick of "Parbleu!" installed a Garhauer vang,
>> but he didn't mention anything of changing the leads.
>> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-January/036831.html 
>> 
>>  
>> >  
>> >
>> 
>> Maybe it doesn't matter because although the mainsheet will get bent a bit
>> by the vang, the smooth metal won't be enough to chafe it or make trimming
>> difficult? Or does everyone move their main sheet padeye?
>> 
>> Here's a pic of the current layout:
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NY0ZoeVBpV244UDQ/view?usp=sharing
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> >  
>> >
>> 
>> Main sheet is the red one, and the turning block immediately to stbd of it
>> (white line with blue/black tracers) is the current non-rigid vang attached
>> to the mast collar. That one binds too, but it's not too bad because the
>> block+shackle gets it out far enough that usually just the blocks are
>> hitting.
>> 
>> -Patrick
>> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
>> Seattle, WA
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
>   
> >

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Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Patrick,

I don’t think the piano hinges on your anchor locker are original C&C.   I have 
6” SS strap hinges which are bolted through the cover and the deck.  I replaced 
mine old broken hinges with new ones, overfilling the old holes with thickened 
epoxy and re-drilling as typically suggested.  No problems with leaks.  Here’s 
a link to the hinge: http://www.marinepartdepot.com/hedustststhi2.html

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 22, 2015, at 3:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 10:53:04 -0800
> From: Patrick Davin mailto:jda...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid
> attachment.
> 
> C&C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they
> thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid
> hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because several
> screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The surprise was it looks
> like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood coring. Screws in wood
> core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck takes the most waves,
> and when at dock it's always humid from rain)
> 
> Pictures:
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0&usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that it's
> cored, or am I on the crazy pills?
> 
> The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is
> about 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the
> toe rail. Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant
> differences, so I think the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems
> like if they had made the anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't
> have had to screw in to coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick
> enough to fit the screws. Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each
> hole, dry it out for 3-7 days (which may not be doable till the summer),
> fill with thickened epoxy and redrill.
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C&C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment Landfall 38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Maybe other LF38 owners could confirm, but all other LF38 anchor locker lid 
attachments I have seen photos of use SS strap hinges.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 22, 2015, at 9:12 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 22:11:48 -0400
> From: Graham Collins  <mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
> Message-ID:  <mailto:blu436-smtp121da5febb0e826faca7bb6d8...@phx.gbl>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
> 
> My anchor locker and cockpit lockers are piano hinged, factory original.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> 
> On 2015-12-22 9:24 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:
>> Patrick,
>> 
>> I don?t think the piano hinges on your anchor locker are original C&C. 
>>  I have 6? SS strap hinges which are bolted through the cover and the 
>> deck.  I replaced mine old broken hinges with new ones, overfilling 
>> the old holes with thickened epoxy and re-drilling as typically 
>> suggested.  No problems with leaks.  Here?s a link to the hinge: 
>> http://www.marinepartdepot.com/hedustststhi2.html 
>> <http://www.marinepartdepot.com/hedustststhi2.html>

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Re: Stus-List Lemon oil cause mildew? Use Borax

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

One of the best ways to kill mold and to stop it from coming back is to use a 
mixture of Borax and warm water (1 cup to 1 gallon).   It turns out that it is 
the alkalinity not acidity that kills mold.
 
Here is an interesting read: http://moldblogger.com/how-borax-kills-mold/



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 13, 2016, at 5:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2016 23:30:07 -0500
> From: "Rick Brass" mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Lemon oil cause mildew?
> Message-ID: <01d14dbb$152a1e80$3f7e5b80$@earthlink.net 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I started using the stuff based on a recommendation from some cruiser 
> friends. Pinesol to clean the teak. Lemon oil to prevent mildew/mold. Danish 
> teak oil for preservation and appearance.
> 
> 
> 
> I always presumed that lemon oil was something made from the seeds or the 
> peel. And that it would be somewhat acidic to stop mildew. Guess I never 
> realized it was mineral oil with added scent.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if you can actually get oil  made from lemons, and whether that is 
> what my friends had in mind with the recommendation? Guess I can rething the 
> process of oiling my teak this spring.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, improving the air circulation seems to have had a beneficial impact 
> on mildew/mold in my interior.
> 
> 
> 
> Rick Brass

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Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

As many have already pointed out that in addition to the benefits in foreign 
waters, documentation may be preferred by some insurance companies or required 
by lenders, and if you want to charter then documentation is also needed.  Up 
until recently documentation required a one time fee with free annual renewals. 
   Now documented boats must pay an annual renewal fee of $26.  I am sure that 
there will be some folks who opt out and not renew.

I just renewed my documentation, and to be honest, the main reason is that I 
like not having the state registration numbers and sticker on the hull.   

I don’t mind paying the annual documentation fee as I only pay $5/yr for the 
annual FL antique vessel registration. In fact, I pay more to register my 8’ 
Walker Bay dinghy ($13/yr) so that I can use it with a small outboard. 

A final note, when I first documented my boat I was informed that there was a 6 
months back log in the processing of recreational documentation.  I paid a 
little extra for the coastwise commercial endorsement (visions of someday 
chartering??) and received the documentation in a few weeks rather than 6 
months.  



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 13, 2016, at 9:48 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2016 16:52:12 -0800
> From: Patrick Davin mailto:jda...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I'm surprised so many people on here are USCG documented. I thought USCG
> documentation (as opposed to merely state registration) is mostly only
> beneficial to those traveling internationally. (and not everyone commenting
> travels internationally).
> 
> So if you don't travel outside of the US and Canada, what motivated you to
> go USCG documented?  There's a small fee savings sometimes (USCG fee is
> one-time while state is annual), but not much - USCG documentation doesn't
> exempt you from state excise taxes (if any). And Washington state requires
> state registration even if you're USCG documented, except for exempt
> vessels (mainly commercial vessels). So no fee savings for Washington.
> 
> -Patrick
> C&C LF38
> Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

While clearly not a perk and extremely unlikely to occur, I read that a 
documented vessel can be requisitioned in a national emergency.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 14, 2016, at 9:47 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>Patrick,?My understanding of documentation is that the vessel is now under 
> USCG protection. If it is stolen it is now a federal offence, not just a 
> state offence. What this means is the USCG will search your boat not just the 
> local cops. Not sure of any other perks from documentation.?
>Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
> 

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Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I should add that trick to speed up the documentation process only works for 
boats built in the USA.  (An advantage for C&C’s built at the Rhode Island 
plant.)




> On Jan 14, 2016, at 9:47 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2016 09:46:30 -0500
> From: Dreuge mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation
> Message-ID: <38c5b170-d47f-44ed-976a-642959638...@gmail.com 
> <mailto:38c5b170-d47f-44ed-976a-642959638...@gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi,
> 
> As many have already pointed out that in addition to the benefits in foreign 
> waters, documentation may be preferred by some insurance companies or 
> required by lenders, and if you want to charter then documentation is also 
> needed.  Up until recently documentation required a one time fee with free 
> annual renewals.Now documented boats must pay an annual renewal fee of 
> $26.  I am sure that there will be some folks who opt out and not renew.
> 
> I just renewed my documentation, and to be honest, the main reason is that I 
> like not having the state registration numbers and sticker on the hull.   
> 
> I don?t mind paying the annual documentation fee as I only pay $5/yr for the 
> annual FL antique vessel registration. In fact, I pay more to register my 8? 
> Walker Bay dinghy ($13/yr) so that I can use it with a small outboard. 
> 
> A final note, when I first documented my boat I was informed that there was a 
> 6 months back log in the processing of recreational documentation.  I paid a 
> little extra for the coastwise commercial endorsement (visions of someday 
> chartering??) and received the documentation in a few weeks rather than 6 
> months.  
> 
> 

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Stus-List 40% off all bulk rope

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

FYI, today only West Marine has 40% off of all bulk rope as part of their 
Fantastic Friday Deal. Purchase online and use the ship to local store to 
save shipping costs too.




http://www.westmarine.com/promo/bulk-rope-sale?cm_mmc=EM-_-Promo-_-160122-_-N/A 




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List transom ladder

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

John,
You should give White Water Marine a call. 
http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/ladders.html 

Like you, I did not have a transom ladder on my boat.  I was able to get 
measurements and photos from several kind members on the list.  I called 
several places and White Water Marine gave me a great price($330).  
BUT MORE IMPORTANT, during our phone conversation I explained how I obtained 
the measurements, and I was told not to worry as they would use the original 
design specs as they built the original ladders for C&C.
I could not have been more happy with the outcome.  (See bottom of 
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/TopsideWork 
 )

I don’t know if they fabricated all of the transom ladders for C&C but there is 
a very good chance they made the original for yours.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sat, 30 Jan 2016 08:36:16 -0500
> From: Bradley Lumgair mailto:lumg...@hotmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List  transom ladder
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Good morning John
> You're welcome to take measurements and pictures from Pulse if you find a 
> welder, should be someone local that can weld that up for you.
> Brad
> C&C 33MkII "Pulse"
> 
> 
> 
> I'd rather be sailing
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
>   
> >

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Re: Stus-List Qest plumbing question

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,


I would look into using Flair-it fittings.  They are easy to install, require 
no special tools, work on both pex and polybutly(Quest), and are easily found 
at your local Ace hardware store.  Sounds like a $5-$10 fix.

http://www.acehardware.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=1260873&f=PAD%2FBrands%2FFLAIR-IT&fbc=1&lmdn=Brand&fbn=Brands%7CFLAIR-IT



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 9, 2016, at 10:41 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 09:54:52 -0500
> From: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Qest plumbing question
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Now I have 2 boats with Qest plumbing!  There is a break in a line right at
> a TEE.  Can I just cut off the end, add a coupling to replace the length
> and put it all back together?
> 
> I'm not looking to re-plumb the system, just fix what's there.

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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Another resource for butyl is Grainger which can be ordered online or picked up 
locally.  

Grainger has grey butyl 3” width rolls and 2” by 2” grey butyl patches by the 
24 box.  They also have 2” width black butyl.

  
http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Butyl-Tapes-WP5534121/_/N-zk3?ssf=3&s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4PDE9_AS01?$smthumb$




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 121, Issue 36
> Date: February 10, 2016 at 12:00:03 PM EST
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 16:30:43 -0800
> From: "Peter Fell" mailto:prf...@gmail.com>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl
> Message-ID: <18c718003f3e49bf9eaed0a45c08a...@intra.camosun.bc.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> As a heads-up (only if you are not in USA, I hope)  ... unfortunately several 
> attempts to contact Compass for a shipping quote on Bed-it went unanswered. 
> YMMV of course.
> 
> From: Brian Fry via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2016 11:11 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> Cc: Brian Fry 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl
> 
> Thanks for the excellent link on butyl.

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