Re: Stus-List Head odors
When I changed head and hoses last year, I went with the Trident #102 hose. Same as #101, but with white outside. Pierre Avalanche C&C38-3 De : "djhaug...@juno.com" À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : vendredi 25 octobre 2013 8h18 Objet : Re: Stus-List Head odors Okay, I spoke to Peggie Hall last night and she asked; "Do you have anything against black hoses?" I said, "Not really." She said "oh good! use the trident 101 hoses. I don't know of a single case where they have ever had a permeation issue." I guess I'm going to have black hoses...I guess I could paint them if the admiral has an issue with them... She also suggested a 24 gallon tank at least. She said, on average, a manual toilet uses .6 gal/flush and the average person uses the toilet at leas 5 times per day. So, at a minimum your putting 3 gal/day/person in the the tank. For 2 people you get 6 gal/day so that tank will not even last 4 days because you don't want to be filling it to capacity. So, we (she) decided the v-birth would be the best location for the new tank. I'll be heading down to the boat with the Ronco catalog in hand to figure out what the biggest tank I can fit under the v-birth. All in all, it will be a very simple system. Manual toilet (she said the Raritan PHC would have been here recommendation) to a Y valve diverting the waste either directly overboard or into the tank. A 1" vent, as far forward as I can get it. A pump out and potentially, a seperate fitting on the tank for a manual overboard tank drain with a manual pump. The project moves on. Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Neverwet
From FAQ page: Can Rust-Oleum NeverWet be used on surfaces that are continuously submerged? Rust-Oleum NeverWet relies on a layer of air to form the superhydrophobic coating on the surface of the object. For this reason the product is not recommended for surfaces continuously submerged in water or liquid. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, CAN54988 C&C38-3 WK, #076 De : Tom B À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : mardi 12 novembre 2013 4h03 Objet : Stus-List Neverwet Pretty cool stuff. I wonder how this stuff would hold up in saltwater. Propeller maybe or even as a bottom paint...who knows... http://www.neverwet.com/ Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 37+/40 Vashon WA ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Has Mexico jumped the shark?
Go for it, we are among friend... De : Wally Bryant À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : dimanche 22 décembre 2013 14h12 Objet : Re: Stus-List Has Mexico jumped the shark? Joel wrote: > I wonder if a couple crisp $100s with your papers would equal compliance. I spent two days writing what might just be my best rant ever. It might be the most perfect funniest rant I've ever written. However, I'm too scared to send it. It's a good time to keep your head down. Wal ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.
This is exactly what the PO did on my C&C 38-3. I will look if I have picture of the installation. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, #54988 C&C 38-3, WK De : Dave Godwin À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : lundi 6 janvier 2014 15h02 Objet : Stus-List Under deck windlass installation. So, it’s winter and I’m getting back to refitting (restoration is probably a better word now after letting her go so long) Ronin and am working on shed/inside type jobs. I bought a Lewmar Pro-Series 1000 horizontal windlass. Right now I’ve taken a bunch of measurements and I am doing some rough drawings for mounting it inside the anchor locker, on a shelf bonded to the bulkhead and just under the anchor locker cover. Right off the bat it seems doable. Chain angle from the bow-roller is within tolerances; the chain/rode runs true when the windlass is offset to starboard and there is just enough chain-fall (~21”) to meet the manufacturer’s requirements. So, has anyone with a same or similar sized C&C done something like this? Thoughts, pictures, links or just general “Be afraid!” comments? Cheers, Dave 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation.
Could not find any picture of it. My install looks like Jim's one. I also has a vertical Lofrans 1000 (very low profile). The shelf is tab to the hull sides, and two legs goes down to the locker bottom. Everything is at least an inch thick covered and welded to the hull and bulkhead with fiberglass & epoxy. I cannot see the core, but almost sure it is marine plywood. Must have been a pita to do the fiberglass work. It looks almost as an original factory job. Cannot comment on the performance of it, because we did not anchored yet (shame on me) in the 2 years we have her. Only took the chain out to clean the locker last summer. Lots of mooring balls and reciprocal club around here. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, hull #76 C&C 38-3, WK De : Jim Watts À : 1 CnC List Envoyé le : lundi 6 janvier 2014 23h49 Objet : Re: Stus-List Under deck windlass installation. Here's mine...a couple of changes ago. Knees glassed into hull just above balsa line, windlass shelf bolted onto knees. I later added a Starboard clatter pad in front of the anchor locker. http://members.shaw.ca/parmesanshift/images/IMG_0953.jpg___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for C&C 38
Hi, As they say. I have a set of E-Z G3 on my C&C38-3. All I had to tell Guido is that I had Merriman 1,25 inch track. The fit and operation is perfect. I just meet him at the Toronto boat show. Very knowledgeable guy. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, #54988 C&C38-3, WK, hull #76 De : Petar Horvatic À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : lundi 20 janvier 2014 12h20 Objet : Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for C&C 38 Re: Stus-List Thru hull and manifolds Hi, has anyone looked into getting an adjustable(re-tractable) geona car system for an old style C&C genoa tracks? By adjustable I mean something like this, but components would have to be compatible with the C&C style genoa track.. http://www.southernseasmarine.com.au/image/cache/data/EZ%20Glide-500x500.jpg Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C&C 38MkII Newport, RI ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for C&C 38
Yes those are the one. I also have a pair of swivel jammers for $50. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Petar Horvatic À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : lundi 20 janvier 2014 15h06 Objet : Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for C&C 38 Rick, thanks for the details, and thanks everyone. I am definitely going to talk to Guido. Rick are you referring to E-Z Glide on Garhauer website. Car 2 being $302.50 E-Z G-UB, and Car 3 being $363.00 E-Z G-3? Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C&C 38MkII Newport, RI From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 2:49 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for C&C 38 You don’t install the tracks. Use the existing tracks and use the new cars on the old tracks. (my tracks are 1977 - I assume - and they still don't leak!) sam :-) From: dwight Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 12:42 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com So do most people get away with installing these tracks and never have leaks. With all the associated holes through the deck it would be very fortunate to never experience leaking and with the liners in C&C boats that leaking can be well hidden. From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: January 20, 2014 3:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for C&C 38 I have the setup that is photo #2 on my 38. Guido at Garhauer will machine the cars so they fit on the Merriman H track you have already. No need to convert to more modern T track, with all the hassles of changing. Among other things, T track has greater spacing between the mounting screws than H track had, so if you remove the H track, you need to over drill and fill all of the holes with epoxy to seal the deck, and then over drill, fill, and drill holes for the new track plus make new aluminum backing plates or modify the existing plate to fit. New track is a real PITA, and the Garhauer ball bearing cars work really well on the H track. Plus Guido did the modified cars for my installation at no extra cost. I would imagine he will do the same for you. I chose car #2 vs. car #3 because it offers a greater range of flexibility when the car is forward and you are broad reaching. Car style #3 is a bigger sheave and it makes it possible to put two sheets through the sheave, thus making sail changes easier. I have roller furling, so change the sheets almost never (at least the ones on the headsail). At $300 per side, these are a real value and a pleasure to use in comparison to the old pin stop cars. If you want to take a poll on the list about the quality, service, and value of the Garhauer hardware in comparison to Harken or other brands, I don’t think you will find anyone who has Garhauer stuff to make a bad comment. It is a little heavier than Harken, but costs half as much and is just a functional. And of what consequence is a couple of ounces on a boat that weighs in at close to 15,000 pounds anyway? Rick Brass Imzadi-1976 C&C 38 mk1 la Belle Aurore-1975 C&C 25 mk1 Washington, NC From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar Horvatic Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 12:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car system for C&C 38 Hi, has anyone looked into getting an adjustable(re-tractable) geona car system for an old style C&C genoa tracks? By adjustable I mean something like this, but components would have to be compatible with the C&C style genoa track.. http://www.southernseasmarine.com.au/image/cache/data/EZ%20Glide-500x500.jpg Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C&C 38MkII Newport, RI ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car
The sheet tension pull the car aft. On my setup, I use bungee only to "park the car" (prevent movement) when not sailing. It require a bit of crew intervention to bring the genoa car completely aft. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : JOHN D IRVIN À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : mardi 21 janvier 2014 13h21 Objet : Re: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car Not in the Garhauer set up. I find under load adjustment requires a bit of crew assistance, though. Maybe I'll try heavier shock cord. From: Tom B To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 1:14:18 PM Subject: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car Adjustable cars seem like a great deal. Some installs show a bungie attached to the aft shackle on the car to pull it aft and counteract the sheet pull. Does this result in losing the use of some of the aft track section? Tom Buscaglia A/ V Alera C&C 37+/40 Vashon WA > -- > > Message: 8 > Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2014 09:28:38 -0500 > From: Stephen Thorne > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" > Subject: Stus-List Adjustable genoa car > Message-ID: <98d8ec19-e3f1-4401-9e55-02dc7f06b...@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > I also recently ordered the Garhauer lead cars this past fall. Haven't yet > installed but looking forward to incorporating into headsail trimming for the > spring season. > > Steve > C&C 34+ > Deja Vu > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Otter Problem
No otter, but we also have mink at our club. They come on the dock only to catch fish, not to poop. Also have a blue heron fishing on the dock (Henry as we call him, or her, or whatever). We like him better on the dock than the masthead. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Robert Abbott À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : dimanche 26 janvier 2014 9h16 Objet : Stus-List Otter Problem A few years back, we had a family of 'mink' at our clubthey were no problem (that I know of) until they started coming aboard boats. 'Final solution' was to eradicate them...I believe they were trapped. I saw a another mink at the club just a few weeks ago. Guess it wasn't the 'final solution.' Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/01/26 10:02 AM, Chuck S wrote: >Chasing Otters sounds like an endless battle, like chasing squirrels from my >back yard. >Suggest somebody provide the Otters a place to do their business away from people? >Maybe anchor a small 6 x 10 floating dock away from the yachtclub docks? > >Anybody at the Yacht Club have a dog to police the docks? >A friend has a Labrdor who loves to poop in the water. He actually jumps into the bay behind his house to poop, or he'll squat in ocean waves and take a dump. Friendly, loveable dog otherwise. > >What is attracting the Otters to the docks? >Where is their natural habitat place to crap? >Request population control of some kind? Open Otter day? > > >Chuck >Resolute >1990 C&C 34R >Atlantic City, NJ > > > >From: "Tom B" mailto:t...@sv-alera.com >To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 12:26:12 PM >Subject: Stus-List Otter Problem > >Yesterday we relocated Alera to our a Yacht Club's brand new docks. We have been on the wait list there for years and this is closer and cheaper. We were assigned a slip on the inside of the hammerhead at the end of the dock. When we tied up I noticed a large amount of poop on the dock. It looked bigger that any raccoon poop, like we had at our prior dock. > >As I was walking up I saw an otter on the dock. Apparently it is very bold and seemed to be nearly domesticated by the way some of the guys were shooing it away with little effect. > >My research revealed that otters develop habitual latrine areas and will go back to the same spot, out of the water where they live, to crap. Apparently, our finger pier is that spot. > >Any suggestions or crappy remarks are appreciated! > >Tom Buscaglia >S/V Alera >Vashon WA >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > >___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators
When I bought Avalanche, the PO gave me the 4 wires sensors for freshwater and holding tank that he never took time to install. I installed them last summer. Freshwater works fine, but the one for the holding tank always show me a full tank, even after pumpout. Looks like "stuff" is sticking to it. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Josh Muckley À : C&C List Envoyé le : vendredi 7 février 2014 18h34 Objet : Stus-List Tank level indicators Anybody have any thoughts on holding tank and freshwater tank level indicators? I'd like to see about possibly getting the original control panel and indicators working. It looks like 4 wires. Maybe 1 wire for V+ and the other 3 for level referance (1/4, 1/2, 3/4). They seem to just make continuity through the water. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Depth sounders and Knot meters
For B&G canadian sources, you can try Marine Outfitter (Pride) in Kingston, and maybe RadioWorld can do a special order, as they have other Navico product. Or if the tax system works the same in both direction between Ontario and Quebec, look at BLYacht.com (Boulet Lemelin in Quebec City, and No affiliation at all). Their pricing is almost the same as in US so you can save on the exchange rate and maybe only add 5% GST and shipping. I also took the B&G route last year. I evaluated price and feature of all the big brand, and when Navico announced the Zeus Touch, I was in love (and still in love). Ok maybe it's Valentine's day, let say I like them very much. I already had B&G Hornet 4, so I only added a Tinley Hornet-to-NMEA box to provide wind/speed data to the ZeusT and Triton. Last year, CAN and US $ where at par, so I went with Defender during their Spring sale and paid way less than any Canadian supplier. This year, I went with RadioWorld.ca for my AC12-RC42-RF300-N2K pack. Regards, Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Bob Hickson À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : jeudi 13 février 2014 17h38 Objet : Stus-List Depth sounders and Knot meters I checked all the instruments at the Toronto Boat Show as I am looking to replace instruments on my boat this year. The new Raymarine instruments look cheap and I was not at all impressed. Garmin instruments looked OK but not great quality either IMHO I was most impressed by the new B&G Triton instruments. This is a new, affordable line of instruments from B&G.. Seemed to be very good quality and nice displays. Prices for the B&G Triton line are roughly equivalent to Raymarine Pretty much made up my mind to buy them if I can find them in Canada. They seem to be readily available in the US Best regards, Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA C&C 29-2 Flying Colours Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club Pickering, ON (416) 919-2297 bobhick...@rogers.com __/) ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Navigation Software
First summer we sailed Avalanche, did not had chartplotter. We cruised all summer with Marine Navigator & raster charts on my Galaxy Nexus phone. Of course, always had the paper charts nearby. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, #54988 C&C38-3 WK, #76 De : Nonpareil Racing À : Plavsa Steve ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : mercredi 19 février 2014 8h43 Objet : Stus-List Navigation Software Steve et al, Have you considered using an ipad with Navionics or another brand of software? Tom Anderson C&C 32 Nonpareil Marblehead MA 81 days to launch 9 days to BVI cruise ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Navigation Software
Free Expedition? De : Joel Aronson À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : mercredi 19 février 2014 11h07 Objet : Re: Stus-List Navigation Software Steve, The new Ray software allows you to use free charts, at least in the US. They have an Ipad app so you can control the plotter from the IPad and use the IPad as a second display anywhere on the boat. I have both Garmin and Navionics on the IPad as a back up. Offshore I'll have a laptop with Open CPN and Expedition - both free. To me it was worth the money to have something dedicated, fixed and waterproof, but there is no "right" answer. Joel 35/3 Annapolis___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Avalanche is back afloat
Avalanche is back on top of Neptune's domain. Launch on Friday at 0800, and mast was back on with everything in place by 1600. Only one little fear during the process, the engine did not fire up on the first try. I had a fuel leak at the fuel filter last autumn, and during winter, air got into the injection system. Had to bleed all 4 injectors. Original paint was not even broken on the injector lines nuts. Saturday and Sunday was a nice 10 hours cruise up the St-Lawrence to Avalanche summer heaven. Motored all the way up, except for 1 hour of wind when we pulled out the genoa. Good sailing to everyone. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, #54988 C&C 38-3 WK___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Air Oil Separator
I did the same thing to my M35 this year. No more smell even after 5 hours motoring. I used the same JEG air-oïl separator, and replaced my air filter with a K&N #RU-2450. http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=ru-2450 Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3 WK De : Len Mitchell À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mardi 11 juin 2013 19h49 Objet : Stus-List Air Oil Separator I solved an engine compartment oil issue! Oil spray (Universal M35 diesel) from the crankcase vent always ended up in the engine compartment. It’s dirty and I could smell it but there is less than 1 ounce a season, I just hate cleaning black oil from under the engine. I added an Air Oil Separator and vented the cleaned air towards the air filter. You can buy them anywhere or make your own design. Screws to the engine compartment, drains out the bottom! It works great! See the link below for the one I used. Cheers, Len Mitchell CRAZY LEGS C&C 37+ Midland On. http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Air-Oil-Separator/763433/10002/-1 -- This E-mail message (including attachments, if any) is intended for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged, proprietary, confidential and exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender and erase this E-mail message immediately. - ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fw: Best C&C's of all time
Me too. I think i'm the only one here with a 38-3 (best C&C ever :) ), so I wont get many vote. Avalanche C&C 38-3 WK Envoyé depuis Galaxy Nexus ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sailing Sunglasses Recommendations
I have a set of Oakley Radar with polarized glass. Love them. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, #54988 C&C38-3 WK De : Stevan Plavsa À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : lundi 22 juillet 2013 14h28 Objet : Re: Stus-List Sailing Sunglasses Recommendations I rock a pair of classic ray ban wayfarers. If those aren't sailing sunglasses I don't know what are. Not quite 23rd century though, sorry. They do come in polarized versions. My polarized pair is somewhere on the bottom of the anchorage. Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 22, 2013 at 2:24 PM, Frederick G Street wrote: Maybe you can find someone to make you polarized versions of LaForge visors… :^) > > >Fred Street -- Minneapolis >S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > > >On Jul 22, 2013, at 1:21 PM, Edd Schillay wrote: > >And if it's something that looks like it belongs in the 23rd Century, then all >the better :-) > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List two helms?
Also, you have engine control on only one of the helm. And it will almost always be on the oposite side when you are docking. Envoyé depuis Galaxy Nexus ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android
I'm using Marine Navigator on my Galaxy Nexus as a backup to my plotter. Last summer, I had no plotter, only the lite version of Marine navigator (plus the paper charts). I use BSB charts with it. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3 WK De : Terry À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 4 Septembre 2013 13h25 Objet : Stus-List Best Navigation app for android Hello, I am looking for the best full-featured navigation app for an Samsung-S4 smartphone with the Android operating system. Any suggestions from users? Thanks... Terry Johnson S/V Ozymandias E-mail: tj...@comcast.net Website: www.tj622.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android
Hi Terry, I don't know, I'm on the great lakes (Ontario). De : Terry À : Pierre Tremblay ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 4 Septembre 2013 13h40 Objet : Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android Pierre, can you get a chart set for Mexico? From: Pierre Tremblay Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 10:35 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Best Navigation app for android I'm using Marine Navigator on my Galaxy Nexus as a backup to my plotter. Last summer, I had no plotter, only the lite version of Marine navigator (plus the paper charts). I use BSB charts with it. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3 WK De : Terry À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 4 Septembre 2013 13h25 Objet : Stus-List Best Navigation app for android Hello, I am looking for the best full-featured navigation app for an Samsung-S4 smartphone with the Android operating system. Any suggestions from users? Thanks... Terry Johnson S/V Ozymandias E-mail: tj...@comcast.net Website: www.tj622.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com Terry Johnson S/V Ozymandias E-mail: tj...@comcast.net Website: www.tj622.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Now on to STUFFING BOXES
The newer packing material is GFO Gore-Tex dripless packing. Did not experiment it yet, but I might next spring. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C 38-3 De : Martin DeYoung À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : mercredi 16 octobre 2013 14h46 Objet : Re: Stus-List Now on to STUFFING BOXES I have used the PYI Shaft Seal on three different boats over 20 years. I do follow PYI’s recommendations for maintenance and bellows replacement (every 5 years?). If you go with a traditional stuffing box, I have read very good things about the newer, lower drip and friction packing materials. Martin Calypso 1971 C&C 43 Seattle From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2013 10:01 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Now on to STUFFING BOXES Hello all again! Now that my new props shaft and prop are ready for the electric motor install, I noticed my stuffing box packing nut is out of round on the inside, so my friendly chandlery guy says this means the stuffing box itself has “ovulated” and I need to replace the whole shooting match so, what says the list? Then, if this was indeed so, traditional vs. dripless? What are the recommendations this time around? I recall years ago a long thread on this, so if no one wants to re-hash it, point me to the source for reading myself. Alex Giannelia CC 35-II 1974 to be renamed after re-launch TORONTO, Ontario ag@@airsensing.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Marine systems
Raymarine, Navico and some other plotter OS are Linux based, as Android. UI is design with Qt Project. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3 De : Stevan Plavsa À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : mercredi 19 février 2014 21h06 Objet : Stus-List Marine systems Do you guys know what OS Raymarine, Garmin et al use? I'm sure they're different but I'm guessing they are all proprietary to their brand. Is that correct? If it is, that would mean that they have a whole team of people developing their OS, right? Why? A thought: why don't they simply license Android, fire their software department (or re-orient them to create amazing Raymarine/Garmin, whatever apps for Android) and make more money? We the consumer get a platform that's much more flexible than what those devices are currently running plus access to all these wonderful apps, which would only get better and better if there was a hardware environment for them more suitable to the marine environment than tablets. The fact that Raymarine now has apps for those devices is telling, people are clearly using tablets on their boats. I think they have it backwards. Don't bring raymarine to the android device. Bring Android to the raymarine device. The marine tech companies are in the hardware business first, software is secondary. They should stick to their core competency and let the big guys do the software part. More frequent updates and bug fixes, a standard user experience regardless of manufacturer. The freedom and ability to run all kinds of apps on your boat computer (because that's what a chart plotter is). Etc. There's already a software environment which means there is demand in the market (navionics, mx mariner, opencpn, etc). My feeling is that the software companies are going to be able to provide much better apps for us than what raymarine and garmin are currently giving us. Imagine a raymarine computer at your helm, just like their top of the line plotter but you can install whatever you want on it and do whatever you can currently do with your android device (because it runs android). If they wanted to, they could port their chart software to android and sell it as an app or provide coupon codes to download it free with the purchase of their hardware. Why is Raymarine developing music playing apps and weather apps for their proprietary platform? That costs money! and this stuff already exists. Think blackberry. They got it all wrong. Along came Samsung and took the entire market (Apple too, but Samsung is #1). If blackberry licensed Android before the whole end game thing happened I think they'd still be around, and profitable. People liked their platform, sure, but what they really liked was their hardware. I've played around with the chart plotters at the boat show and the chandleries. I wasn't really impressed with any of the interfaces. They should continue to build amazing marine grade HARDWARE and let the people that know software handle that part. Someone is going to come along and do this. Personally, I would buy a "Marine Tough" android device for the helm before I purchased any purpose built plotter. It would do everything that a plotter does plus so much more (for those times when you're alongside a dock and want to watch a movie in the cockpit or some other frivolous thing like facebook or the C&C mailing list ;) ). Hell, install a display down below. "Computer. Play movie. Terminator 2." And so on. Science fiction had it all figured out with Hal. One central computer. One computer to rule them all and in the dorkness bind them. I wish I was capable of starting a business like this, I'de do it myself. Most people have MULTIPLE computers on board. The VHF these days is a computer, the laptop at the nav station, the chart plotter, the instrument displays .. why?!!! Just give me one CPU running a commonly used platform and let the software companies duke it out. Plug in a bunch of dumb displays or interactive displays, whatever your budget allows. Hook up all your transducers and sensors and you're off to the races. Focus on making amazing marine hardware and continue to charge marine prices for it. Stop spending money on coders to maintain your proprietary system and MAKE MORE MONEY. Or like I said before, turn them into an App department and port what they've already got as apps .. FOR SALE! Rambling thoughts on a wednesday night. Someone's going to owe me a beer if this happens. Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List E7 Question
Steve, From e-Series manual, Appendix C, power are the biggest pins, Batt+ is pin 2 (left when look from behind) Batt- is pin 7 (right when look from behind). This link: http://raymarine.ning.com/forum/topics/pinout-a-c-e-gs-series-power-nmea-0183-video-input-cable show you the cable, witch is a mirror of the back of the e7. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3 De : OldSteveH À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : jeudi 20 février 2014 13h06 Objet : Stus-List E7 Question Hello all, I have my E7 at home and want to send it for replacement under their recall. I need to power it up to archive my routes and waypoints however the wiring harness is at the boat (2.5 hours away). The + and - power pins on the connector are obvious, but does anyone know which is which, I am afraid of reversing polarity and damaging the unit. I checked the manual and searched online but came up with nothing. Also checked resistance between pins and casing to ID the negative pin. However probably due to capacitance on the board, there are funky resistance readings and its hard to tell which pin is ground. Cheers Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl C&C 34 Lions Head ON ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List E7 Question
The picture in the link is the cable. And yes, to help, it is shown sideways. The "tail" of the cable sould go down. The e7 unit connector is a mirror of the cable. If right pin is + on the cable, then + pin is at the left on e7 unit. De : OldSteveH À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : jeudi 20 février 2014 14h42 Objet : Re: Stus-List E7 Question Pierre thanks for sending that link, that's what I was looking for :D But to make sure we're looking at it the same way can you look at the pin orientation again? When I look at the diagram and the overall pin pattern I am seeing +ve = Pin 2 as the right pin and Negative = Pin 7 as the left pin, again looking at the back of the unit. (however it's possible the connector on your unit has a different orientation) Cheers Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl C&C 34 Lions Head ON -- Message: 9 Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 10:50:11 -0800 (PST) From: Pierre Tremblay To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Subject: Re: Stus-List E7 Question Message-ID: <1392922211.26989.yahoomail...@web125202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Steve, From e-Series manual, Appendix C, power are the biggest pins, Batt+ is pin 2 (left when look from behind) Batt- is pin 7 (right when look from behind). This link: http://raymarine.ning.com/forum/topics/pinout-a-c-e-gs-series-power-nmea-018 3-video-input-cable?show you the cable, witch is a mirror of the back of the e7. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3 De?: OldSteveH ??: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoy? le : jeudi 20 f?vrier 2014 13h06 Objet?: Stus-List E7 Question Hello all, I have my E7 at home and want to send it for replacement under their recall. I need to power it up to archive my routes and waypoints however the wiring harness is at the boat (2.5 hours away). The + and - power pins on the connector are obvious, but does anyone know which is which, I am afraid of reversing polarity and damaging the unit. I checked the manual and searched online but came up with nothing. Also checked resistance between pins and casing to ID the negative pin. However probably due to capacitance on the board, there are funky resistance readings and its hard to tell which pin is ground. Cheers Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl C&C 34 Lions Head ON ___ ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Marine Systems
Bill, I don't think you would need to replace wind/depth/speed sensor. Seatalk can be easily bridge to NMEA2000. After all, those are simple N2K message, not quite like autopilot. It can be done with an ITC-5 or through the existing ST-whatever display. I feel like a little devil on your left shoulder. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Bill Coleman À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : jeudi 20 février 2014 16h59 Objet : Re: Stus-List Marine Systems Well, Damn you, Jean, or Francois, You just cost me a couple hours and no doubt more later, as I sit here slack-jawed watching YouTube videos of what this is capable of! This looks like watching the Americas Cup on this little screen! I can’t believe the changing laylines. I downloaded the manual, this is mind boggling. I really don’t want to Replace my Raymarine CRC80 . . .this would also probably require new Wind/Speed/Depth and Replacing the Raymarine autopilot because of that annoying sea-talk. Knees getting weak . . . Bill Coleman C&C 39 From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Marine Systems Don't mean to beat a dead horse.. but. Here's why I spent $900.00 on a B&G Zeus Touch. Rugged / Clear Screen in the sun / Waterproof / No-Nonsense functionality / integration. It’s so much more than just a GPS nav.. No-Nonsense functionality: Has both touch and real buttons that you can use intuitively in the heat of the battle / wearing gloves Sailing functionality. (Sail Magazine 2013 #1 innovation award winner: Sail Steer) ETA / Waypoints / Tack Laylines automatically optimized via knowledge of currents / tides / windshifts / GPS position / SOG / COG / VMG . .Etc. All the normal sailing gauges / Drive your Autopilot optimized via the aforementioned (Sail Steer) Cool Integration, single interface to view and control from the helm or anywhere on the boat via an Ipad / Android device on Wifi of the following: - Full Audio control --> Control Ipod / Android music lists, Pendora, Independent volume for speaker zones (Cockpit / Salon / Sub ) (Fusion makes an NMEA 2000 Compliant Ipod / iphone interface / speaker package (260.00 bucks or so) and a full featured Bluetooth / DVD / CD / AM-FM / USB NMEA compliant Head unit (About 500.00) - Radar - Engine / Fluid levels monitoring - Sonar - AIS - All Sailing gauges VMG / Combined actual / apparent wind / close-hauled / etc. etc. - Chartplotter / GPS mapping Network Integration: - NMEA 0183 output built-in to integrate with my Autupilot / VHF - All my new transducers / windvanes / sensors are NMEA 2000 compliant and on the backbone + There's a standard ethernet network output for cheap wifi capabilities. - No proprietary networking to fool with or adapter interfaces needed. Any NMEA 2000 compliant module / display / Ipad / Android app that get hook on the Wifi / ethenet can benefit from SOG / windspeed / wind direction / COG / GPS coordinates, etc etc Software is upgradable via standard sim card / works with upgraded Navionics chats All of this is plug and play on a rugged / waterproof device. In the big scheme of things and all the money we spend on these boats 900.00 for this much integration and easy to use functionality is money well spent. -Francois Rivard 1990 C&C 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Marine Systems
Bill, I have a Zeus Touch 8 and one Triton since last summer. Love it. My wind and speed data comes from a 1988 B&G Hornet 4 (even older that Network). I had to install a Hornet-to-NMEA module from Tinley to get the data in NMEA0183 format, than a AT10 for N2K. The data is only updated once per second, but is of good quality. I kept the Zeus 0183 port for my SH GX2150 AIS data. B&G Network 0183 can go direct in the Zeus 0183 port, or with only a 0183 V1.5 to V3 converter. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Bill Coleman À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : jeudi 20 février 2014 19h13 Objet : Re: Stus-List Marine Systems My wind/speed/depth are old network B&G, 0183, not seatalk. The otto is seatalk. But I would also have to have that StructureScan transducer so I could see perfect images of the bottom. This video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlO6naQL0m0 seems to explain a little of what I was wondering about this morning. It looks like Lowrance owns this technology? , at least that is all that comes up when I search for it. The Lowrance display in the video is like a TiVo, you can bring back the images that you just went over and mark them. Amazing. I’ll bet you could find your winch handles with this technology. BTW, who has the Zeus, Pierre, Jean, or Francois? Bill Coleman C&C 39 From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pierre Tremblay Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 6:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine Systems Bill, I don't think you would need to replace wind/depth/speed sensor. Seatalk can be easily bridge to NMEA2000. After all, those are simple N2K message, not quite like autopilot. It can be done with an ITC-5 or through the existing ST-whatever display. I feel like a little devil on your left shoulder. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De :Bill Coleman À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : jeudi 20 février 2014 16h59 Objet : Re: Stus-List Marine Systems Well, Damn you, Jean, or Francois, You just cost me a couple hours and no doubt more later, as I sit here slack-jawed watching YouTube videos of what this is capable of! This looks like watching the Americas Cup on this little screen! I can’t believe the changing laylines. I downloaded the manual, this is mind boggling. I really don’t want to Replace my Raymarine CRC80 . . .this would also probably require new Wind/Speed/Depth and Replacing the Raymarine autopilot because of that annoying sea-talk. Knees getting weak . . . Bill Coleman C&C 39 From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Marine Systems Don't mean to beat a dead horse.. but. Here's why I spent $900.00 on a B&G Zeus Touch. Rugged / Clear Screen in the sun / Waterproof / No-Nonsense functionality / integration. It’s so much more than just a GPS nav.. No-Nonsense functionality: Has both touch and real buttons that you can use intuitively in the heat of the battle / wearing gloves Sailing functionality. (Sail Magazine 2013 #1 innovation award winner: Sail Steer) ETA / Waypoints / Tack Laylines automatically optimized via knowledge of currents / tides / windshifts / GPS position / SOG / COG / VMG . .Etc. All the normal sailing gauges / Drive your Autopilot optimized via the aforementioned (Sail Steer) Cool Integration, single interface to view and control from the helm or anywhere on the boat via an Ipad / Android device on Wifi of the following: - Full Audio control --> Control Ipod / Android music lists, Pendora, Independent volume for speaker zones (Cockpit / Salon / Sub ) (Fusion makes an NMEA 2000 Compliant Ipod / iphone interface / speaker package (260.00 bucks or so) and a full featured Bluetooth / DVD / CD / AM-FM / USB NMEA compliant Head unit (About 500.00) - Radar - Engine / Fluid levels monitoring - Sonar - AIS - All Sailing gauges VMG / Combined actual / apparent wind / close-hauled / etc. etc. - Chartplotter / GPS mapping Network Integration: - NMEA 0183 output built-in to integrate with my Autupilot / VHF - All my new transducers / windvanes / sensors are NMEA 2000 compliant and on the backbone + There's a standard ethernet network output for cheap wifi capabilities. - No proprietary networking to fool with or adapter interfaces needed. Any NMEA 2000 compliant module / display / Ipad / Android app that get hook on the Wifi / ethenet can benefit from SOG / windspeed / wind direction / COG / GPS coordinates, etc etc Software is upgradable via standard sim card / works with upgraded Navionics chats All of this is plug and play on a rugged / waterproof device. In the big scheme of things and all the money w
Re: Stus-List Now Boat Names
I remember when I was a kid, there was a small sailboat at our yacht club named "Preparation H". Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Owners database
Hi Stu, Will we be able to edit? Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Dave Godwin À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : dimanche 9 mars 2014 10h46 Objet : Re: Stus-List Owners database Stu, looks good however I “technically” would have a problem filling out the owner part. My wife actually owns the boat and I’m the “mate.” And we have different last names. She’s pretty smart though. I do all the maintenance and upgrades and she just gets to step onboard and has someone run the boat. Just like fellow Baltimoron Elizabeth Meyer... Anyway, I’m just fooling’ around here. Don’t change it. Cheers, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit On Mar 8, 2014, at 5:56 PM, Stu wrote: Some of the preliminary work has been done on the NEW owners database. The registration is complete and waits for your comments and suggestions. > >http://cncphotoalbum.com/owners_db/register.php > >Don’t bother filling it in and pressing the SUBMIT button – it needs part2. > >Let me know what you think. > >Stu > ___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker
Hi, My cruising spinnaker is also a 0.75 oz symetrical with a sock. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C 38-3, #076 De : "Della Barba, Joe" À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : lundi 25 février 2013 9h39 Objet : Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker >Yes - I was sailing to a rendezvous single-handed one day and didn't want to >do the 5 or 6 gybes I would need to follow the twisting river with the pole. I >rigged it up as an asym and it worked so well I have been doing that ever >since. Really the only time I use the pole now is DDW in light air. > >Joe Della Barba > > >-Original Message- >From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles >Sent: Monday, February 25, 2013 9:33 AM >To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker > >Joe, am I reading your note correctly? It says to me that you are flying your >symmetrical tacked down as an asymmetrical with no pole. ?? > >Rich Knowles >Indigo. LF38 >Halifax > >On 2013-02-25, at 10:18, "Della Barba, Joe" wrote: > >Since you put "cruising" in the title, think about an asym. I fly my chute as >an asym way more often then I use the pole. With just me, the wife, and kid >aboard it is less work and WAY easier to gybe. > >Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I > > >-Original Message- >From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Wagner >Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 10:39 PM >To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Subject: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker > >Thinking of getting a 35' x 18' Symmetrical spinnaker for a C&C 29 Mk 1 > >Thoughts...Comments?? > >Paul N. Wagner >s/v Rum-Line >1977 C&C 29 Mk1 > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Head replacement on C&C 32
Hi John, I did it last September. Replaced the 1988 Wilcox with a Jabsco household bowl. On my 38-3, there is no bolt under the toilet floor. It is solid wood under the fiberglass, and those fasteners are wood screw studs with a round head nuts. I had to switch the pump mechanism to the left because the hole where the hose come from the bilge was to close to the head output and I could not properly shape the hoses. I was able to reuse two of the four screw holes. Hope it helps, Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3, Sail 54988 > > De : John Russo >À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Envoyé le : samedi 16 mars 2013 15h52 >Objet : Stus-List Head replacement on C&C 32 > > >I am planning on replacing the original toilet on my 1984 C&C32 with a Jabsco >compact model # 29030-3000. The original toilet is a Wilcox Crittenden and I >have rebuilt the pump once without very good success. Overall Dimensions of >the two toilets are nearly identical but mounting holes appear different. I >have contacted Jabsco re mounting dimensions of the existing toilet for info >without success and looked on line without results. Has anyone done this >replacement? If I need new mounting holes how do I get a bolt under the boats >toilet fiberglass platform and hold it to tighten a nut on the toilet base for >mounting ? Any experience or suggestions? > >John >Arpeggio >1984 C&C 32 >Norwalk CT > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List St - Defender's Warehouse Sale Online Now
Just exchanged some email with Defender. They even applied the reduced price to an order I placed before the sale, as shipping was delayed (back order item). Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3 Sail 54988 > > De : "djhaug...@juno.com" >À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Envoyé le : jeudi 21 mars 2013 8h14 >Objet : Re: Stus-List St - Defender's Warehouse Sale Online Now > > >It's that time of year again! > >http://www.defender.com/warehouse-sale.htm > >Danny >Lolita >1973 Viking 33 >Westport Point, MA >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List message
http://www.sellerie-ronzon.com/nfge/imsa.pqcs?bkypi 4/1/2013 2:38:45 PM 4/1/2013 2:38:45 PM ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector
Just back from Canadian Tire with a Mastercraft pinless moisture meter. In soft wood mode, top of my desk (presswood modular furniture type) say 15%, and it can see my hand (jump to 18%) under the desk top (1 inch thick). On my hand, it goes off the scale exactly as the CT33 of my surveyor was doing. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, #54988 C&C38-3 WK > >On 2013-04-09, at 9:47, Stevan Plavsa wrote: > > >I never had any trouble using mine, what people deem so difficult about using >them I'm not sure. The mastercraft one is a quarter of the cost, go ahead and >try it and report back. I'de be curious to see how it measures up against the >CT33. > > > > > >On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Hoyt, Mike wrote: > > >>Don >> >>I asked on the Canadian Tire website a similar question about that product a few months ago. They finally answered and say it is similar to CT33 because it ises a similar inductance method. At half price at $45 I think it is worth a try anyway. >> >>You should also be aware that these meters are not all that easy to use. I borrowed Graham's Electrophysics meter (CT100 I believe) and within 10 minutes realized I had no clue how to use it properly. >> >>Mike >> >> >> >> >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Harben >>Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:31 PM >>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 - Pinless Moisture Detector >> >> >> >> Hi folks, >> >>This has been a very useful discussion for me but especially for my friend currently looking at boats. >> >> >>Does anybody have comments or experience on this Pinless Moisture Detector? >> >>http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/MeasuringTools/SpecialtyMeasuring/PRD~0574572P/Mastercraft+Pinless+Moisture+Detector.jsp?locale=en >> >> >> >> >> >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sail numbering
Hi Paul, I had this answer from sculpin on sailinganarchy when I was searching to change ownership of my sail number. Quote: "Sail number was assigned to the boat when it was sold, the first two are location identifiers. Totally separate from the HIN (hull identification number), which you will find on the transom, upper stbd. If you are racing you will want to register with the local sailing association, they will want your sail number (since it is hard to see the 5mm high VIN from the finish line!). From an old post on there, here is an explanation of sail number assignment: First, go to: http://offshore.ussa...ail_Numbers.htm Next, break your sail number into two parts, the first digit and the last four. In Tim's case 8 4033. In the table on the site above, scroll down the first column to the row with 8. Now scroll across in that row to the column with the header block that contains the last four digits. 4033 falls in the 4000-4250 block. At the intersection is CYA. Sail number 84033 was issued by Canadian Yachting Association." End of quote. My sail number is 54988, which was issued by CYA Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, #54988 C&C38-3 WK > > De : Paul Taylor >À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" >Envoyé le : mercredi 10 avril 2013 11h05 >Objet : Stus-List Sail numbering > >I have a 1977 29 mk1, are the sail numbers the same as part of the hull number >or were the arbitrarily assigned. > >Sent from my iPhone >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting
Just ordered warm white and red in SMD5050 Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK > > De : Stevan Plavsa >À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Envoyé le : jeudi 11 avril 2013 9h59 >Objet : Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting > > > >The chinese made ebay 5m strips are cuttable at 3" intervals. I'm waiting for >mine too. > > >Steve >C&C 32 >Toronto > > > >On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 9:54 AM, Joel Aronson wrote: > >Edd, >> >> >>I'll let you know in a couple weeks. I am hoping they can be cut and spliced >>like Josh's. >> >> >>Joel >>35/3 >>Annapolis >> >> >> >>On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 9:41 AM, Edd Schillay wrote: >> >>Joel, >>> >>> >>>Can these be cut down? And if so, how do you wire them up? Do you need >>>special connections? >>> >>> >>>The price is great and I do want to replace my fluorescent bulbs. >>> >>> >>>All the best, >>> >>> >>>Edd >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>Edd M. Schillay >>>Starship Enterprise >>>C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B >>>City Island, NY >>>Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website >>> >>> >>>On Apr 11, 2013, at 4:02 AM, Joel Aronson wrote: >>> >>>I bought white and red strips off EBay. >>>>http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11401.m1842.l3160/7?euid=049cfa25528a48dab196fe09c311ec7e&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D190810137664%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A3160&exe=10013&ext=100026&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>$14 each. Worth the gamble. >>>>Joel >>>>35/3 >>>>Annapolis. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>>___ >>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >>-- >>Joel >>301 541 8551 >>___ >>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >>CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > >___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Defender delivery
Amongst other things I received from Defender last week was a B&G Triton T41 display. It only had a nylon strap around the box that you could slip aside to open the box. No seal. All the little bags inside where sealed and everything look new. > > De : Knowles Rich >À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" >Envoyé le : jeudi 11 avril 2013 13h13 >Objet : Re: Stus-List Defender delivery > > > >I did a bit of research today and nipped in to the Binnacle to have a peek at >the various instruments in their boxes and see how the packaging looks. None >of the Raymarine, and most other manufacturers', boxes arrive from the >manufacturer/ distributor sealed. The rationale is that most customers want to >fondle what they are thinking of purchasing so the boxes often may have been >opened by several prospective customers before they are sold. Makes sense when >you consider the cost of having one of everything on display so you don't have >to open a box. > > >It does not account for any cosmetic or other damage. > > >Rich Knowles >Indigo. LF38 >Halifax > > > >On 2013-04-09, at 10:41 PM, "djhaug...@juno.com" wrote: > > >Well, >> >>They sent me out another unit it is exactly the same... Except, now >>everything says TackTick instead of Raymarine... If it wasn't for that, I'd >>have bet it was the same box of stuff... >> >>I don't what to say... Why would they open the boxes...it does not make any >>sense to me... >> >>Is the fact that it now says TackTick mean anything... It's just weird... >>guess I'll stick with this and see if it works... >> >>Danny >> >> >>-- Original Message -- >>From: "Hoyt, Mike" >>To: >>Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery >>Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:28:30 -0300 >> >> >>Danny >> >>Do you suspect this was maybe a display unit at some point? Are they >>offering an "open box" discount like many big box retailers do? >> >>Mike >> >> >> >>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of >>djhaug...@juno.com >>Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 7:43 PM >>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery >> >> >>Okay, >>So the Tack tick/raymarine instruments just showed up Thursday night. I >>opened the shipping box and pulled out the Tack Tick box and the first thing >>I notice is the factory seal is broken. I go no further and write them the >>next morning and tell them about the seal. Thay then say, >>"Mr. Haughey, Thank you for your email. There are times when our sales >>department will need to open the boxes on some instruments to double check something such as if all the parts are present. I would say go ahead and inspect the item to ensure all pieces are in the box and nothing looks amiss. There should be instructions in the box which will tell you what should be included. If anything looks questionable, please send us a photo and we can check on our end to see if that is how the unit should be or not. I do not think what you received is anything used, though, we likely just had to get into an unit box to check on a part. Sincerely,..." >> >>I really don't like this answer. Why would they open a box the check if all >>the parts are there??? I call BS! >> >>Anyway, I open the box this morning and there are scratches, the lens >>protectors are all bubbles underneath. They just called me as I'm writing >>this... >> >>He is telling me that they aren't packages well from the factory, they have >>never taken a return...blah blah blah...but, I'll get another one right out >>to you... >> >>He have a much better argument if the factory seal wasn't broken... The >>stuff is all rattling around in the box! This is how ray marine packages a >>$2000 system? >> >>I guess Ill find out when I get the next one... >> >>Here a few photos. >> >>http://sdrv.ms/10FhaTl >> >>http://sdrv.ms/10Fhh17 >> >>http://sdrv.ms/10FhpO8 >> >>http://sdrv.ms/10FhD7S >> >>http://sdrv.ms/10FhGk6 >> >>It just all seems quite strange to me... >> >>Danny >>Lolita >>1973 Viking 33 >>Westport Point, MA >> >> >>-- Original Message -- >>From: "djhaug...@juno.com" >>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>Subject: Re: Stus-List Defender delivery >>Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 06:23:33 -0400 >> >>I got my stuff yesterday too! I did not get a chance to open the boxes yet but, should do that this evening. >> >>I had walled out of there without ordering a new hatch. My bowmar hatch has a broken hinge and there are no replacement parts available. So I ended up calling then like thursday, after the sale and they honored the sale price on a lewmar low profile model. >> >>I pulled the old hatch over the weekend and all the bolts were suck and some snapped. I guess that the nw hatch was definitely in order. I've now blown my budget for this year. >> >>Danny >>Lolita >>1973 viking 33 >>Westport point, ma >> >>T-Mobile. Amer
Re: Stus-List C&C 38 mkIII
Hi John, I know what you mean. I just fell in love with mine. I don't have much experience with her (bought it June 2012), and cant compare as it is my first keel boat. In light air, I usual match the TWS up to 6.5 knots at 30 degree AWA. She point well, even with a wing keel. I can go up to 20 degree AWA and still have a margin before stalling. Mine is a 1988 and it is in pristine shape. It was a ready to sail boat (fresh water boat). Hope it help. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3 WK > > De : "j...@svpaws.net" >À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" >Envoyé le : mercredi 17 avril 2013 20h33 >Objet : Stus-List C&C 38 mkIII > > >Any thoughts on the late 80's vintage 38? I'm thinking about one for a full >restoration and ultimately to be used for coastal cruising (long island >sound), casual phrf racing and limited offshore runs (Bermuda, BVI, etc). > >A little background. I currently sail a Sabre 386 but am uninspired by the >performance. Build quality is great. I've owned 2 Rob Ball C &C's in the >past, each for about 7 years - a 34+ and a 51xl. > >The deep draft doesn't scare me (I took the 7'+ 51 through the Bahamas >happily) and I understand the balsa core issues. Any other particular issues >with the 38 to be concerned about? > >Motivation is that to my eye it's one of the prettiest boats I've seen. You >can't overstate the importance of a drop dead gorgeous boat that makes you >stop in your tracks. > >Any insight as to performance vs a Sabre 386 or a more modern design such as >the 115? Any thoughts on performance in light air (say 10 knots true) as well >as moderate (say 15-18 knots true). Does the boat point as well as it looks >like it should? > >Any and all comments welcome > >John > > > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > >___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 38 mkIII
My polar stops at 25 AWA, witch is my VMG. At 20 AWA, there is not much speed left. I did it once to pass a buoy without tacking. I'm not sure I could have hold it for long. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C38-3 WK > > De : dwight veinot >À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Envoyé le : jeudi 18 avril 2013 5h24 >Objet : Re: Stus-List C&C 38 mkIII > > > > >Yes 20 degrees to apparent is really very good, any boat that can sail at 20 degrees to apparent wind is exceptional for sure, a real racer. If I take my 35 MKII up to 20 degrees apparent I am almost certain she would practically stop…maybe check the polar diagrams on that 38 WK because 20 seems to good. The polar diagrams for my 35 MKII don’t even show expected performance upwind in any wind strength, including light wind when sailing below 30 degrees apparent > >Dwight Veinot >C&C 35 MKII, Alianna >Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > > > > >From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net >Sent: April 17, 2013 10:50 PM >To: Pierre Tremblay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 38 mkIII > >Thanks - very helpful. The AWA numbers you mention are very, very impressive. > >How do you find boat performance in a chop? > >John > > >Sent from my iPad > >On Apr 17, 2013, at 9:42 PM, Pierre Tremblay wrote: > >Hi John, >> >>I know what you mean. I just fell in love with mine. >> >>I don't have much experience with her (bought it June 2012), and cant compare as it is my first keel boat. >> >>In light air, I usual match the TWS up to 6.5 knots at 30 degree AWA. She point well, even with a wing keel. I can go up to 20 degree AWA and still have a margin before stalling. >> >>Mine is a 1988 and it is in pristine shape. It was a ready to sail boat (fresh water boat). >> >>Hope it help. >> >>Pierre Tremblay >>Avalanche >>C&C38-3 WK >> >>>De :"j...@svpaws.net" >>>À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" >>>Envoyé le : mercredi 17 avril 2013 20h33 >>>Objet : Stus-List C&C 38 mkIII >>> >>>Any thoughts on the late 80's vintage 38? I'm thinking about one for a full restoration and ultimately to be used for coastal cruising (long island sound), casual phrf racing and limited offshore runs ( Bermuda , BVI, etc). >>> >>>A little background. I currently sail a Sabre 386 but am uninspired by the performance. Build quality is great. I've owned 2 Rob Ball C &C's in the past, each for about 7 years - a 34+ and a 51xl. >>> >>>The deep draft doesn't scare me (I took the 7'+ 51 through the Bahamas happily) and I understand the balsa core issues. Any other particular issues with the 38 to be concerned about? >>> >>>Motivation is that to my eye it's one of the prettiest boats I've seen. You can't overstate the importance of a drop dead gorgeous boat that makes you stop in your tracks. >>> >>>Any insight as to performance vs a Sabre 386 or a more modern design such as the 115? Any thoughts on performance in light air (say 10 knots true) as well as moderate (say 15-18 knots true). Does the boat point as well as it looks like it should? >>> >>>Any and all comments welcome >>> >>>John >>> >>> >>> >>>___ >>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >>>CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >>> >___ >>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >>CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > >No virus found in this message. >Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com/ >Version: 2012.0.2241 / Virus Database: 3162/5750 - Release Date: 04/17/13 >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > >___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List diesel leak on VC17
Hi listers, Last autumn, I slightly overfill my fuel tank, and some of it went out the vent, and onto the VC17 bottom. So now, for prepping the bottom, how can I clean the diesel from the VC17 before repainting? Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, #54988 C&C38-3 WK___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Engine compartment ventilation
Hi everyone, Since June 22th, I'm the proud and happy owner of a C&C 38-3, 1988 WK & TM (C&C41 mast). As all diesel engine C&C, there is no engine compartment ventilation. I would like to add forced ventilation while motoring and after coming to the dock to evacuate heat and odors from the engine compartment. To help with the odor, I will do the "crank case ventilation to intake" modification with a Jegs air/oil separator before spring launch, . Was there any 38-3 with gas engine, so I can copy the original installation? If not, what type of vent are used on gas engine C&C, and where are they located (transom, deck, ...). I have a MOB pole tube in my transom that could integrate a stealth vent. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche 1988 C&C 38 mk3, sail # 54988___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Engine compartment ventilation
I dont notice smell or heat, unless I open the engine compartment inside the cabin after motoring for a long time. I dont have any cowl vents or vent hoses inside the compartment. There is no voluntary ventilation of the engine compartment on Avalanche. The only air makeup is from cracks in between compartment, access hatch and covers. Without voluntary ventilation, after the eit takes a while to cool off the engine compartment. > > De : Rich C&C >À : 'Pierre Tremblay' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >Envoyé le : vendredi 28 Septembre 2012 10h24 >Objet : RE: Stus-List Engine compartment ventilation > > >Salut Pierre! > >Many C&C’s with diesel engines have engine compartment ventilation. The design >of these vent systems is essentially the same as those on the gas powered >boats with a pair of cowl vents on the stern connected to plastic vent hoses >inside the compartment. One hose generally terminated at the bottom of the >compartment and the other higher up. There is generally a 12V in-line >extraction fan in one of the hoses. This arrangement serves well, but usually >see little regular use on the diesel powered boats. > >You don’t say what your problem is that causes you to consider putting in a >vent system. The engine will consume a few hundred cubic feet of combustion >air per minute and sucks that air from the engine compartment which needs to >be vented somewhere to provide makeup air. Much of the engine heat will be >reduced along with the ingested combustion air. A well-running diesel will not >give off much in the way of smells or fumes and neither should be very >noticeable. If you are experiencing enough of either to make you take notice, >I suggest you look for the source of the problem before applying a band-aid >such as a blower. The boat has been operating for 24 years without a blower >system and should be able to continue that way. I am not saying ventilation is >not a good thing from both a heat and fume dissipation point of view, but it >should not be needed if all is working ok. > >To see what C&C boats have and to get some ideas of what you could do, I >suggest looking at pictures of various C&C’s on http://www.yachtworld.com/. >Based on a quick look at your boat, if I was to install a vent system, I think >I would look at mounting a stainless low profile scoop vent facing backwards >on the outside of each winch coaming as far back as practicable towards the >stern. See >http://ca.binnacle.com/Ventilation-Misc-vents/c199_213/p1530/PERKO-1312-COWL-VENT-3-INCH/product_info.html > >Hope this is usefulJ > >Rich Knowles >INDIGO - LF38 (with vents!) >Halifax, NS > > > > > >From:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On >Behalf Of Pierre Tremblay >Sent: September 28, 2012 10:22 >To: C&C Mailing List >Subject: Stus-List Engine compartment ventilation > >Hi everyone, > >Since June 22th, I'm the proud and happy owner of a C&C 38-3, 1988 WK & >TM (C&C41 mast). > >As all diesel engine C&C, there is no engine compartment ventilation. I would >like to add forced ventilation while motoring and after coming to the dock to >evacuate heat and odors from the engine compartment. To help with the odor, I >will do the "crank case ventilation to intake" modification with a Jegs >air/oil separator before spring launch, . > >Was there any 38-3 with gas engine, so I can copy the original installation? >If not, what type of vent are used on gas engine C&C, and where are they >located (transom, deck, ...). I have a MOB pole tube in my transom that could >integrate a stealth vent. > >Pierre Tremblay >Avalanche >1988 C&C 38 mk3, sail # 54988 > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hurth transmission maint. and use
My manual say "neutral or reverse" when sailing. 1988 Hurth HBW-100. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche, C&C38-3 > > De : Rich Knowles >À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" >Envoyé le : mercredi 3 octobre 2012 5h46 >Objet : Stus-List Hurth transmission maint. and use > > >FYI: You may recall a discussion a while back about what to do with your >transmission when sailing. This link discusses Hurth transmissions maintenance >and use. > > >http://l-36.com/manuals/Hurth-Transmission-operating.pdf > > >Rich Knowles >Indigo. LF38 >Halifax > > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ >CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement
Hi Alex, Not yet, but will have to in few years. Check fastcomposites.ca. They are in Ottawa. They have rebuilt lots of C&C rudders. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C 38-3 #076 Sail 54988 Envoyé par Yahoo! Mail (sur Android) From: Ron Casciato ; To: ; Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement Sent: Fri, Oct 19, 2012 6:06:57 PM HI Alex: I recently had an earlier post on this topic...contact me off line for details. Depending on what you actually need, you may want to have someone skilled in foils do this. You definitely affect the performance of your boat with such a project. Good luck. Ron Casciato Impromptu C&C 38MKIIC '77 -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 1:56 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement Has anyone on the list replaced or re-built their rudder? ALEX GIANNELIA CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006 Toronto Ontario ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F
Sam, What about the exhaust hose between the water muffler and the exhaust through hull? Dont you have water trapped in there? After my muffler, the exhaust hose goes up, then down and up again before the exhaust through hull, so there is always water in there. I also circulate antifreeze mainly because I cant get water out of my exhaust hose. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C 38-3, #076 > > De : Sam Salter >À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" >Envoyé le : samedi 20 octobre 2012 11h11 >Objet : Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F > > >The 2GM20F is a freshwater cooled engine with a heat exchanger taking heat out >of the antifreeze that permanently surrounds the cylinder block and head. So >there is no need to get concerned about the thermostat as that is part of the >circuit that contains antifreeze and you are not going to,drain that. >The circuit that contains the raw water is: >Through hull suction, strainer, raw water pump, heat exchanger, exhaust elbow, >water muffler, exhaust through hull. >I don't put any antifreeze through that circuit; just drain it by opening the >tap at the back of the heat exchanger; opening the drain on the strainer; >taking off the raw water pump and removing the impeller; opening the drain on >the water muffler. That completely drains the raw water circuit - done. >Reverse order in the spring! >My boat is on a lake and I pull it in the fall, so it's currently on the hard. >If I was in salt water I'd probably flush freshwater through it before I >drained it. > > >sam :-) >C&C 26 Liquorice >Ghost Lake Alberta > > >On 2012-10-20, at 5:37 AM, "D.Drake" wrote: > > >Well I never actually timed the process ,but I have never had to rush around >during it either ! It is a little SB 8 so how much water does it really need >(haha) >> >>On 20/10/2012 7:12 AM, dwight veinot wrote: >> >> >>>3-4 minutes…your pump is very slow…mine puts at least 4 L through per >>>minute…I am surprised that you don’t have a cooling problem >>> >>>Dwight Veinot >>>C&C 35 MKII, Alianna >>>Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >>> >>> >>> >>>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of D.Drake >>>Sent: October 20, 2012 8:04 AM >>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F >>> >>>Sebastion >>>That's pretty much how I go about it with the exception that I have crew monitor the bucket of antifreeze to ensure that it never goes dry . >>>It takes my SB 8 Yanmar about 3-4 minutes to start spewing antifreeze out of the exhaust . at which point I stop the engine . The next step is to open the cooling circuit drain on the right (Portside) side of the engine to ensure that antifreeze is past the thermostat .The important thing is to get as much water out of the internal engine circuits as possible and fill it with antifreeze >>> >>> >>> >>>On 19/10/2012 10:53 AM, Sébastien Lemieux wrote: >>>I'll be winterizing my 2GM20F for the first time tomorrow (saturday) and >>>would like some advices on the practical way to fill up the raw water >>>circuit with antifreeze. I plan on detaching the intake tube of the raw >>>water circuit from the seacock and putting it in a bucket filled with >>>antifreeze (I'm aiming for 2 gallons, is that enough?). Then, I assume I >>>need to start up the engine and wait until antifreeze comes out from the >>>exhaust thruhull. >>>> >>>>Should I just crank up the engine (with decompression lever open)? If I >>>>need to start the engine, how long should I expect to it? Do you leave the >>>>tube in the bucket unattended while you stand near the control panel to >>>>stop the engine? >>>> >>>>Thanks in advance! >>>> >>>>Sébastien Lemieux >>>>Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987 >>>>MooneyBay - Lake Champlain >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>___ >>>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album &
Re: Stus-List Folding Prop
I also have a 2 blade folding Martec on my 38-3. I dont remember the size of it, I'll have to dig that from my pictures. It is original (26 years old) and has been rebuilt only once by the PO. I have some vibration only at specific RPM. It take a bit more RPM to bite in reverse, but I'm getting used to it. I never tried full forward RPM yet, but it push the boat at 6.7 kts at 2400 RPM. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 38mkIII
Hi Jerry, I own a 38-3 wing keel (5'6" draft) and my VMG is around 26-27 AWA. Most poeple at the club think I have a deep draft because I can point so close to wind. My PHRF (Lake Ontario) is 108 vs 102 for the deep draft. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Jerome Tauber via CnC-List À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : jeudi 19 juin 2014 11h51 Objet : Stus-List C&C 38mkIII I've owned a C&C 24 and 29mkII and now own a 27mkV. A friend and I are considering partnering on a 38mkIII. The 7.5 foot draft may be good in the Mariana Trench but not in my harbor. (3 mile Harbor ). Has anyone had any experience with the shoal keel version which I think gives the boat a. 6'4" draft ( still problematic). How does it point. How many points does it gain in PHRF. Any other comments appreciated. Jerry Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List B&G Instruments
Search "B&G H1000 universal interface box". It will convert the H1000 bus to NMEA0183. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" À : Frederick G Street ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mardi 15 juillet 2014 12h47 Objet : Re: Stus-List B&G Instruments Fred So then back to the original question. Could these B&G H1000 era transducers be effectively connected to newer Raymarine displays? All of the data seems good on the B&G. The wiring and the boxes in behind the bulkheads look almost new. The transducers are obviously working. The displays however are difficult to read from angles and on one there are some lines missing on the bottom of the screen. I can however effectively use all three but would prefer something much clearer. The former ST50 and ST60 series were very readable and the new ones obviously more so. Also – would not wish to have noticeable lag when watching speed etc. Am considering replacing with the ST50/ST60 tripack and removing and selling the B&G H1000 transducers and wiring and everything as one package. Also have added a Raymarine A65 for nav station chartplotter so it would work with the ST50/60 set and as a result have a working Furuno G31 GPS and antenna to sell as well. New stuff is so much prettier. Call me a crow. Mike From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 1:12 PM To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List B&G Instruments Jean-Francois — just to expand on this, pretty much any older transducer (and many of the new ones) do NOT directly output NMEA0183 or NMEA2000 data; most of the depth, speed and wind transducers need to be connected to a display head which will then convert the signals into NMEA0183, NMEA2000 or SeaTalk data. The exceptions are the “smart” transducers from Airmar (and others; but Airmar makes most of the transducers for most of the manufacturers); these are capable of being directly connected to NMEA0183 or NMEA2000 networks. You can also get boxes from some manufacturers that will convert the older transducer outputs into usable network data. An example would be the ITC-5 from Raymarine which takes the analog outputs of speed, wind, depth, temperature, fluxgate compass and rudder position transducers and converts it all into a SeaTalkNG data stream that can be also used in most cases on an NMEA2000 network. It’s a nice (and pretty inexpensive) way to move into the newer data network topologies. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Jul 15, 2014, at 10:23 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote: Hi Mike, The easiest thing would be to find out the nature of the signal is out of the computers / transducers. If it's NMEA 0183 compatible then you just get a NMEA 0183 to NMEA 2000 converter (A Google search will easily get that) If not find out if there is a way to get the signal converted to NMEA 0183 then you take that and convert it further to NMEA 2000. Once you get to NMEA 2000 than pretty much all MFD's / chartplotters can use it. Of course you'll have some latency / refresh rate annoyances as the conversion will introduce some lag in the process. Honestly though. It's probably worth a haul-out to pop then ancient stuff out and pop-in fresh transducers. I had that done this spring. It was a surprisingly simple process, the new masthead was pretty simple to install and speed / temp / depth transducer takes just one through hull an is very accurate. The underwater transducer is the same standard size as the old one (Both made by Airmar), it was basically and pop-off / pop-in job. I installed a pair of new B&G Triton MFD's and a Zeus chartplotter. The displays are amazingly clear / easy to use / and full of neat features. All the above works on a standard NMEA 2000 backbone so adding other sensors / displays in the future should simply be a plug and play into the backbone affair regardless of the brand. Good Luck, -Francois Rivard 1990 C&C 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, Georgia Anybody on this list use B&G H1000 series instruments? I have these on my Frers 33 and the displays are sometimes difficult to read (esp at night and on angles) and are starting to lose some of what I call raster lines (for lack of proper term). Does anyone know if there is a newer Multifunction display that is compatable with the behind the scenes computers and transducers? Thanks Mike Persistence 1987 Frers 33 (I know - not a C&C) ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, i
Re: Stus-List Mast on c&c 33 MKII
My mast is from Offshore Spar (as my boom, spin pole and vang). I think all C&C mast of those years were from them. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Paul Fountain via CnC-List À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc : Paul Fountain Envoyé le : mercredi 13 mai 2015 7h56 Objet : Re: Stus-List Mast on c&c 33 MKII Brad, ours was made by C&C. Contact Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts for parts. His email: sa...@southshoreyachts.com Website: http://southshoreyachts.com/ Paul Fountain Managing Director SeaSource Inc. Bookkeeping & IT Services. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 6:57 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bradley Lumgair Subject: Stus-List Mast on c&c 33 MKII I've tried a search and am unable to find the manufacturer of the mast on my 1985 cnc 33 MKII, need to order new guides for the spin pole car as one is broken, any ideas? Thanx Brad C & C 33 "Pulse" Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, from my iPad! ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Mirage in Newport
I saw Harry's Mirage in Newport during the VOR weekend. Nicest boat on the water. Will post pictures somewhere and email the link to the list. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mirage in Newport
Here some pictures of Miragehttps://www.flickr.com/gp/77363625@N06/jN790G Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Harry Hallgring À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc : Pierre Tremblay Envoyé le : mardi 19 mai 2015 9h09 Objet : Re: Stus-List Mirage in Newport Thanks for the kind words Pierre! Here are a few shots from Sunday's VOR leg start. We were on Alvimedica's chase boat...great day! https://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157652015578858 HarrySent from my iPhone On May 18, 2015, at 09:55, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List wrote: I saw Harry's Mirage in Newport during the VOR weekend. Nicest boat on the water. Will post pictures somewhere and email the link to the list. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mirage in Newport
Jean-François, the Mirage you are refering to on YachtWorld is from the manufacturer Mirage. Harry's Mirage is a C&C Northeast 39. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc : Jean-Francois J Rivard Envoyé le : mercredi 20 mai 2015 15h27 Objet : Stus-List Mirage in Newport Hi Harry, That's correct I don't know which modelyou have, in any case it's really pretty and I loved your Newport VOR videos. Here's the Mirage I looked at on Yachtworld: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1989/Mirage-Yachts-39-Sloop-2431533/Kingston/Canada#.VVzdEE1FAkI Here's a 34 plus like mine: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/C%26C-34-Plus-2698751/Buffalo/NY/United-States#.VVzdXU1FAkI Many similarities in the design. Bothlook great (I'm biased) Have a great day. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, Georgia Message: 3 Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 13:14:03 -0400 From: Harry Hallgring To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Subject: Re: Stus-List Mirage in Newport Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Francois, Maybe a different model you are seeing.Mine doesn't have a wing or scoop?? Harry Sent from my iPhone > On May 20, 2015, at 10:55, Jean-FrancoisJ Rivard via CnC-List > wrote: > > Francois ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Re : Re: List down?
Was thinking the same that everypne was out sailng. Here, nice sail yesterday. Today went out on the kids new to them 29er. Good I am old. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche C&C 38-3 De:"Joel Aronson via CnC-List" Date:dim., 19, juil., 2015 « à » 14:36 Objet:Re: Stus-List List down? Heat index over 100. Doing an evening sail. Joel On Sunday, July 19, 2015, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote: I think everyone (but you and I…) are out on their boats… :^( Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Jul 19, 2015, at 12:37 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote: Nothing since Friday...is the list down or is everyone out sailing? Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Up-sizing boats
There is a C&C 36XL in Toronto http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1996/C%26C-36XL-2527557/toronto/Canada#.U_NvE010zmE Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Danny Haughey via CnC-List À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mardi 19 août 2014 11h01 Objet : Stus-List Up-sizing boats Hi all, I'm currently in a Viking 33. I am 6'-0" tall and I cannot stand up in most of the boat and I'm tired of hitting my head. The wife and I are starting to cruise more and find that after 3 days on board we NEED to get off. I love how this boat sails! she handles beautifully and has a very slippery hull, deep keel and points like nobody's business! However we really want some creature comforts. Like, at least a swim platform, I think this can be added to the right boat, A stand-up shower and a usable galley. A large cockpit is also on the want list for entertaining. We don't race but we like to go fast. My thoughts are to either buy a suitable older boat and have her modified to what we want or go for a new boat. We like the Jeanneau 349 but my fear is the quality of the new boats and the composites they use. I love the solid hull on my viking. The wife really loves the light open feeling of the newer boats and I'm only even considering them for her sake. I'd like to start a conversation on this and hopefully come to a conclusion. I feel that a new boat will depreciate quickly and a refurb of an older boat will offer a better quality built boat overall and the value will remain largely the same. I have, until now, rehabbed 2 boats from the brink of the crusher. Although I enjoyed the process and have a strong sense of accomplishment, I don't want to do it again. I want to find a boat, have the work contracted out by a reputable yard and end up in a turn key situation. I'm getting a bit older and just want a boat, in great shape, that I can simply maintain and sail more than work on. I'm considering looking on the great lakes for a nice freshwater boat. I think and older freshwater boat will potentially be in better shape than a newer saltwater vessel. I think the added cost of the shipping or extended cruising vacation could really be worth it!! I'm looking forward to all the tips, suggestions and insights!! I guess someone is going to get a really nice V33 in Lolita! Danny ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 86 C&C MKIII 38-ft owner's manual
Hi Larry, Welcome to The list. Yeah, another 38-3 owner on the list. It make's three that I am aware of. :) I also have my manual in its original orange plasticized binder. Is she a fin, or wing keel? Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Douglas via CnC-List À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : lundi 13 octobre 2014 14h01 Objet : Stus-List 86 C&C MKIII 38-ft owner's manual Good-day all I recently purchased a C&C We were the market a Sail Boat and fell in love with this vessel. Pretty darn good shape. Pretty much like new inside and excellent shape outside. Very little use. Just a couple times a year and the owner paid to have it maintained. To the point. I got in touch with one of the fellows that was with C&C in the 80's He sent me a copy of the original owner's manual. I would be willing to post it on the site or send it to someone in a pdf file. I am going to copy it and attempt to make it into a word doc. That process is not always successful. For now if someone needs a copy or could tell me how to post it on the site. Thanks. Larry -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 9:00 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 28 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Volvo ocean race game? (OldSteveH) 2. Re: Redline 41 (Jerome Tauber) 3. Re: thread reply and rod rigging (Rick Brass) 4. Re: thread reply and rod rigging (Dennis C.) -- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 12:09:35 -0400 From: OldSteveH To: Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo ocean race game? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" There's another online nav game with which some may be familiar: Virtual-loup-de-mer.org French website but most interface is available in English. It's not as graphically fancy as Volvo but seems to be more for 'serious' nav players. I have been on and off it over last 10 years and some of the same dudes are still there . . . Free and ad-free always works for me. A bigger race like VOR or Vendee will get over 1000 entrants. The interface is good and it's accurate, ie good charts, but if you want a nicer looking GUI there are some apps such as Frogtools which work with the website. With that and Ugrib you're all set. Cheers Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl C&C 34 Lions Head ON -- Message: 4 Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 22:34:07 -0300 From: Graham Collins To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Volvo ocean race game? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; format=flowed Anyone doing the volvo ocean race game? (Virtual regatta at http://www.virtualregatta.com/) -- Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 -- -- Message: 2 Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 18:39:18 -0400 From: Jerome Tauber To: Bruno Lachance , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Subject: Re: Stus-List Redline 41 Message-ID: <7f1c19d8-7cc1-45b8-9bce-e72621f68...@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" For around 50-75K you can get a late 80s C&C 41 with PHRF around 70. I assume the Redline 41 will come in somewhere around PHRF 25. Jerry. C&C. 27 V J&J. Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 12, 2014, at 10:15 AM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote: > > i did not see the new Redline 41, But i hope that it is more than "slithtly" higher quality than a Bene or a Hanse. i charter a brand new (1month) Hanse in the BVI last year. nice boat, but the quality of the inside is fairly cheap and the deck hardware is minimal... this is just not the same buyer in my opinion. The comp?tition is more like Jboats, Xboats and other european speedsters. > > i just hope they do well and add more boats to the new C&C lineup. but its a very tough market out there. > > you luck you could step on it! > > Bruno > c&c 33 mkII > Becassine > > Envoy? de mon iPad > >> Le 2014-10-11 ? 12:32, Roger Ware via CnC-List a ?crit : >> >> Joel, You forgot to mention the bad- the 41 is a very expensive boat $400K. Hard to see how it will compete well with the slightly low
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 29
Hi Larry, I have the wing keel. With its 5'6", it help to go almost everywhere around here (lake Ontario). Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Douglas via CnC-List À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : lundi 13 octobre 2014 17h14 Objet : Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 29 Pierre Three of us, wow She be a full fin keel. How about yours Larry___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
Turbo lift? Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Edd Schillay via CnC-List À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : jeudi 16 octobre 2014 19h58 Objet : Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers? Listers, Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of projects -- One of which is some mast work. Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so, what did you use. There’s an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so it’s on my mind. And no, the transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the mast. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 38 MK III Info
Hi Doug, Avalanche has a wing keel. Cannot compare with the full keel, but I can say that upwind performance is impressive. All the experience sailor at the club think I have the full keel because I can point so well. With the genoa sheeted tight in the shrouds, the telltales are streaming up to 27 degree AWA. At 25 AWA, the windward telltales are lifting, I can hold 20 degree AWA for few minutes without stalling, but it is slow. I found the polar diagram of a C&C 38-3 full keel (from an ORC International Certificate), and the VMG is at 42 degree TWA. Last summer, I recorded my boat data during a race, and most of my tack where 85 degree (there were no wind shift during those). It is tender that other sailboat, but not that much. With my cruising sails, I have to reef early (15 knots TWS), but I think it is more related to my old 15 years old cruising sails (read "potato bag shape"). During a race, we had the #1 genoa up, and with 15 knots TWS, never heeled more than 22 degree. With the huge sail plan, it heel faster that other boat, but it rapidly sits on its cheeks. Huge beam those 38-3. I have all sorts of comment on my boat; it looks pregnant, looks like a squirrel with a mouthful of nuts, etc... Around here (St-Lawrence 1000 Islands), the shoal draft is priceless. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Doug Allardyce via CnC-List À : CnC- List Envoyé le : samedi 8 novembre 2014 10h44 Objet : Stus-List C&C 38 MK III Info I'm looking at a 1987 C&C 38 MK III with a wing keel. Does anyone out there have any experience on how the upwind performance is with the wing keel at 5' 6" draft vs the full keel at 7' 7" draft. I understand that the full keel model will probably point better, I'm just trying to get a feel for what I might be giving up with the wing. Also curious to know how tender the boat might be. Plan to do some casual club racing. Doug _/)~~~_/) ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 33-I Spreaders?
+1Last year, Klacko had it in stock when a member at our club found a cracked on his C&C32 spreader. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Martin Kane via CnC-List À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mercredi 3 décembre 2014 21h06 Objet : Stus-List C&C 33-I Spreaders? David You may want to contact Tim Doel at Klacko Spars klackosp...@bellnet.ca (905) 825-0015 Klacko provided the original C&C masts back in the 70's and 80's. They are located on Oakville, Ontario. Martin C&C 29-2 Recalculating ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CnC 38-3 Sailing Characteristics
Mike, I don't know what wind condition you have in SD, but I would say 135. This is what I have on my furler and, if the shape is ok, should be good up to 20 kn. My #2 is very old and baggy and also give me a lot of weather helm. I have a racing Kevlar 135 that is good up to 25 kn. 150 is a pain to tack in light wind and is only good under 10 kn. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Mike Flannery via CnC-List À : "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : mercredi 3 décembre 2014 19h41 Objet : Stus-List CnC 38-3 Sailing Characteristics I recently purchased a 38-3. Now need to replace headsail. Could use some input on 110 vs 135 vs 150 use. I'm replacing a135 which rounded us up or resulted in heavy weather helm with small crew. I also singlehand a lot so I'm trying to figure out what workd best for me San Diego sailing. Appreciate any info. Mike Flannery602-849-3396 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Indigo is for sale.
Good luck Rich. I don't want to be the little devil on your shoulder, but, shipping your LF38 to the west will be cheaper than the difference between the price of an other boat in BC and the selling price of your LF. Add to that the investment on the BC boat to get her to your liking. You love her (Indigo), bring her west... Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Danny Haughey via CnC-List À : r...@sailpower.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Envoyé le : mardi 16 décembre 2014 6h56 Objet : Re: Stus-List Indigo is for sale. Good luck Rich! With the relocation and selling your boat! Danny >From my Android phone Original message From: Knowles Rich via CnC-List Date: 12/16/2014 3:50 AM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list Cnc-List Subject: Stus-List Indigo is for sale. After a few years of equivocating and procrastinating, I have finally decided to relocate. We are moving to Nanaimo BC, the other end of Canada, and intend to make our home there for the foreseeable future. We plan to hit the road on January 8, weather permitting, for a three week or so odyssey and arrive around the end of January. The sad part of this will be leaving Indigo, our LF 38 behind. It’s simply not practical to ship her to the west coast and the North West Passage is a bit too ice choked at this time of year to sail. So, she is up for sale. Details can be seen at: http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-halifax/sailboat-c-c-landfall-38-a-great-christmas-present/1039227171?src=topAdSearch I’ll still be lurking and, who knows, may wind up with another C&C. A good thing. Cheers to all. Rich Knowles INDIGO LF38 Halifax, NS. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters
I have a Zeus Touch T8 on Avalanche and I also like it a lot. I also have a
Triton display and some other devices to get my old B&G Hornet4 data to the N2K
network. Integration is easy as all devices see each others on the network.
Jim is right, the included charts are very limited, and it is for all the first
generation of Zeus Touch. I had to get C-Map Max-N for the great lakes. I
recently find a way to get BSB charts on my Zeus.
Layline and some other feature require a compass. The ZG100 ($200) will do the
job very well, but is not enough for autopilot or MARPA witch require more
precision (like the RC42). The ZG100 will also give heel, trim and faster more
precise GPS data. And for Wifi, a WIFI-1 ($220) or any other router is
required. The WIFI-1 is a lot easier to install.
I went through the manual of the new Zeus2, and from what I see, the first
generation Zeus Touch will do almost everything the new Zeus2 does. Zeus2 is
faster and has the 2 finger zoom feature, and they will add some cloud feature
to the Zeus2 this spring.
Up to now, I don't regret going with B&G. I even found a good contact at Navico
for support
Pierre Tremblay
Avalanche #54988
C&C38-3 WK, hull #76
De : Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
À : Bill Coleman ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
; Andrew Burton
Envoyé le : vendredi 30 janvier 2015 12h12
Objet : Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters
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I guess it is all what you are used to, I have a Zeus Touch T7 on Firewater
and like it very much, though part of the attraction is the full integration
with my Triton instruments, which makes it like a big instrument display in
addition to being a chartplotter. I have not really needed the manual for
regular use.
The one thing about the B&G system that is not obvious is the need for some
additional pieces. The Zeus T7 at least comes with very limited charts, the T8
may be better in that regard. I felt the need to buy charts to even get the
breakwall in our harbor on the cart. The other issue is that it really needs
an external compass transducer to properly function even as a chartplotter.
There is another optional piece, which I have, to give you iPad control as Andy
describes below, so it definitely is available. The bottom line is that the
price of the T8 alone may not be the true cost to give you the features you
want.
I think with any of these you need to evaluate it in light of the integration
opportunities with other instruments and sensors. If you have relatively
current Raymarine instruments, they might well talk to the E7. If you have
B&G, they might well talk to a Zeus unit. They aren’t just chartplotters any
more, they really are designed to be part of a system. Just my 2 cents.
Regards,
Jim ReinardyC&C 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI
Sent from Windows Mail
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Re: Stus-List Electronics deals?
Just downloaded the B&G rebate PDF from Defender, and the rebate for the Triton Speed/Depth/Wind package is $150US and an additional Triton give $50US more. Defender has a 2 Triton + Speed/Depth/Wind package at $1700. If I compare with BLYacht.com pricing for the equivalent (Triton S/D/W pack + 1 Triton), Defender is $100 less even considering exchange rate (0.78) and taxes (13% in ON), excluding shipping. Shipping and broking fee for Defender might kill the difference. Yes Garmin bundle will (usual not-my-fault-if-it-don't-work) work with B&G stuff. Calibration of Garmin sensor will be available only on the Garmin display. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : mercredi 18 février 2015 9h42 Objet : Stus-List Electronics deals? Hi All, Last year B&G had a promo/rebate on their wind/speed/depth package where they offered a free display with the purchase of the kit. That was a good deal and I would have taken advantage of it then but other priorities won out. Right now, it looks like B&G is only offering a $100 rebate on the kit, far less appealing than the promo last year. I know at least one of you guys is involved in the marine electronics business and maybe you know of other deals or promos that are available or that might be on their way for spring? What I'm after is a wind instrument first and foremost, I have speed and depth but I'll do the whole shebang if it's a good deal. The Garmin GWS 10 wind sensor/display bundle is priced very competively but I've never liked Garmin. I believe it is nmea 2k though so it should work with say, a B&G Zeus 8 or something, right? Cheers, SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Electronics update
Hi John, 1- My transducer is in front of the keel. I think this is most manufacturer recommendation. If yours is working fine, leave it there. 2- I am using marinebeam.com product for the LEDs. I have a BA9S for AquaSignal deck streaming LED light (sku BA-9S-5W), a BA9S 15 LEDs (sku BA-9S-15-CW) for Anchor light and a 44mm festoon (sku FS-44-30B-CW) for the mid mast AquaSignal navigation light. 3- I leave that to others. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 De : John Bousfield via CnC-List À : "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Envoyé le : vendredi 6 mars 2015 8h12 Objet : Stus-List Electronics update Hi All,Great info being passed around. We are upgrading our instruments and have a few questions. 1. Our depth transducer is located +/_ 2 feet on center line behind the keel. Is this the normal location? 2. Has any on change the spreader and mast head lights to LEDs, and what brand would you suggest using. 3. Is anyone using a backstay radar mount. I think this is the best option. Currently it is on a pole with two ugly braces that interfere with the swim ladder. For those using the backstay mount any issues? ThanksJohn & Marjolein1979 C&C 36Dutch Girl Oh forgot anyone know the PHRF rating to the 36? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
Hello Paul, I had cut the extension cable for my RAM3 remote mic and re-spliced it without any issue. I did not used butt crimp, but soldered and shrink wrap each individual wire. I tried to keep enough shield braid to cover the splicing section. Of course, I cut the VHF end of the cable so splice would be in a more environmental control space. Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 Le mardi 28 juin 2016 1h03, paul.hood via CnC-List a écrit : Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and alao to a ram mike at the pedestal Wire ends are factory and told by Standard Horizon not to cut. They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail is barely 1" O.D. I'm looking for recommendations. Do I1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through guard into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of pedestal. 3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on either the guard or pedestal Paul Hood81 C&C34 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?
I also have the original Martec Eliptic on my 38-3. No vibration, hull speed at 2400 RPM, and in reverse, you have to think ahead. To align the blade, I installed a cheap fleabay car backup camera connected to the video input of my chartplotter (Zeus Touch). With paint mark on the tranny and cuppling, easy to align. It also give me view on the engine, stuffing box and bilge when motoring for prolonged period. Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 Le vendredi, 16 février 2018 11:53:09 Est, Gary Russell via CnC-List a écrit : I have to provide the dissenting opinion on the Martec prop. Many years ago, I had to make a quick stop when two kids in a dinghy came out of a mooring field in front of me. In order not to hit them I slammed the boat in reverse. Being not geared, one of the blades did not open. The resulting imbalance ( at full power) bent the shaft severely. The resulting 1/2" run out created incredible vibration. The shaft and prop had to be removed for repair. I would never use a folding prop that isn't geared. I currently use a 3 blade Flex-O-Fold prop which has very good reviews and I'm happy with it. GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C&C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 9:54 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote: My LF38 came with a 2 blade Martec Eliptec (LH18DX14P-3 1-1/8), and I agree with others that the performance is surprising good. Yes I often forget/neglect to align the blades, and I have experienced the boat shake on a rare occasions. Performance wise, forward to hull speed is no problem in flat water, but like others, I cruise at about 6.5 with a lower rpm (Yanmar 3QM30/Paragon/Walter-Vee). With regards to backing/stopping, I have not hit anything (harder than willing) yet. I do get some starboard prop walk which I try to take advantage of, but it is nothing compared to the walk of my old 29Mk1 w/ a fixed 2 bladed prop. - Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot. com/ On Feb 15, 2018, at 10:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: My Martec runs very smoothly with a couple small harmonics at different rpm's. That's normal for nearly all drive trains. Forward power is good. I think my prop is a wee bit underpitched. I can get hull speed with a clean bottom and max rpm but only 6.4-6.5 at cruise rpm (80% max). I really haven't had any issue with opening, closing, etc. I think the Martec is a good choice for folks who race and want minimal drag. If my use was only cruising, I'd probably have a different prop. Dennis C. __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Replace Beckson by Lewmar Standard
Hello all, Does someone has experience in replacing Beckson portlight with Lewmar standard? Searching the list archive, I found a reference of an install on a C&C38 1976. According to the install instructions, the surface has to be flat within 1mm maximum. My cabin side has a curve of 6mm on the Size 2 portlight lenght. I'm sure the frame will follow the curve, but will the lens close thight with this frame deformation? Regards, Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List (no subject)
http://star.goldlinecorp.net/ Pierre Tremblay ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List (no subject)
http://superb.kcmaps.com Pierre Tremblay ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List New sonar transducer
The Airmar P79 NMEA that I installed gave me good reading when crossing Lake Ontario last summer. I saw 680ft. My old B&G Hecta was starting to give random values at 600ft. I was supprised as the P79 is an inhull transducer. Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 Le mercredi 22 février 2017 12h43, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List a écrit : @Marek- Tri-data (depth, temp, speed over water) sounds interesting. I'll check into that. If I go chartplotter, I'll need to figure is where to mount the head unit. With a tiller, the wheel pedestal is out of the question. @Rick- Support for depth over 200ft is useful to me for setting prawn traps. The sweet spot for catching prawns seems to be between 350 and 250 ft around here (Vancouver BC). Thanks, Jeremy ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Air filter for kuboda based engines
Len, I have the same setup as you on my universal M-35. I connected the output of the Jeg air/oil filter to a rigid part of the K&N air filter so the engine breath back the crank case vapor. I used to have oily odor in the cabin after motoring before that. Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 Le samedi 4 mars 2017 13h37, Len Mitchell via CnC-List a écrit : Dennis, I have had a K&N filter on ours for probably 8 years now. They claim the technology provides better air flow than the OEM filter too. To build on your post, I installed a small automotive air/oil separator from Jegs on the crank case breather hose to eliminate fine mist and oil odour in the engine compartment. It collects maybe an ounce of oil a year depending on running hours but I would rather collect it than have to clean it up. The hose still terminates by the breather. 60 days to Splash Down! Len Crazy Legs 1989 37+ Midland On. Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Stuffing box leak rates
Just for reference, 1 drop per second is 1.14 us gallon per day. Regards, Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Engine oil
There is many flavor of Rotella. I use Rotella T6 10W40 in my Universal M4-30, and 0W40 in all my VW TDI (pre 2006). Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List M-35 electrical fuel lift pump
Hello all, After suffering few fuel starving, I decided to have spare part for everything between fuel tank and engine fuel injection pump. Engine is a Universal M-35. RPM would slowly drop down then engine dies. I am able to start it back by just opening the fuel blead valve on the injection pump. It happened after 4 hours motoring in dead calm sea with a full tank, and the Racor glass is clear. I had no problem when the engine is cold. I suspect the fuel lift pump. The electrical fuel lift pump I actually have is a CARTER 7H15A 504. Google cannot find it, and the only look alike from Carter is #P60504 or #P76438 superseded by #P90091. Can someone tell me what you have for lift pump. >From the spare fuel filter I have, primary (Racor 200FG) is 2 micron, and >secondary is 10 micron. I know it is wrong and I will go with 10 / 10. The 2 >micron might also start to be dirty. Good wind... Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List M-35 electrical fuel lift pump
Hi all, Lot of good info, as usual here. I found the correct fuel pump (Facet #40106) in an aircraft online shop for $60 Can (aircraftspruce.ca). As for the filters, if one was clogged, I could not have restarted the engine and have it run for over an hour. I will change them anyway. I confess to not having touched them since I bought the boat (8 years). I have to reposition Racor and lift pump anyway, as the PO mechanic changed the location of the Racor to just under the exhaust hose, leaving no room to change the filter. Thanks to all, Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Re: No Traffic
Same here since before Aug 23th on Yahoo mail. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 Le jeudi 7 septembre 2023 à 12 h 12 min 58 s HAE, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List a écrit : I've not seen an email on this list since Aug 29th. Nothing in my spam foldersI'm guessing some new GMail setting perhaps...anyone have any suggestions? Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag C&C 30 - 549 Armdale Y.C. Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C drawings at Kingston Maritime Museum
I cannot replicate your search for C&C 32. I only get 8 records all starting with 2001. What was your specific keyword? Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 Le mardi 29 décembre 2020 22 h 36 min 58 s HNE, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List a écrit : And to show a bigger example of what can be found The request was for info on C&C 32 My search of the Databases ( 4 of them ) C&C 32 was Project #79-1 So the first project of 1979. Drawing generated by C&C Design would be numbered 79-1-#. There was no specific order as in 79-1-1 was sailplan or hull It would have just been the first drawing produced. The Marine Museum info says they have something specific with their number 2008.0012.0041, Number of plans - 2 and they have not been digitized ( False ) | | C&C 32 | 79-1 | | | 2008.0012.0041 (1-2) | 2 | FALSE | This record is a drawing " Curve of areas " which is in drawer 5-B-8 | | C&C 32 | | | | 2008.0012.0127 (1) | 1 | FALSE | | | | C&C 32: Curve of Areas | | 5-B-8 | searching for "79-1" | 2012.0010.0002.0002 | Sailplan (Obsolete - use 79-1-2 Feb 14/80) | Ink drawing of sailplan with corrections specified in pencil | | C & C Collection (Tartan Yachts) | Apr-79 | 5-B-19 | Just cause somebody labelled it C&C #32, this didn't show up in the earlier search, but the search for 79-1 did | 2009.0021.0052 | C&C Yacht Collection | C&C Yachts: Lines Drawing of 31.5 LOA Sloop for C&C Yachts Ltd. Drawing# 79-1-11, March 2, 1979, Scale 1:12, C&C #32. | | C & C Collection | 02-Mar-79 | | 2009.0021.0055 | C&C Yacht Collection | C&C Yachts: C/Board AND Ballast Detail Drawing 31.5 LOA Sloop for C&C Yachts Ltd, Drawing# 79-1-22 Design# 22, November 22, 1979, Scale 1:4 (3"=1' 0"). | | C & C Collection | 22-Nov-79 | This does not mean they do not have more info on the C&C 32, for example they have a scrap books with multiple references to the C&C 32 http://db.library.queensu.ca/dbtw-wpd/exec/dbtwpub.dll?AC=NEXT_BLOCK&XC=/dbtw-wpd/exec/dbtwpub.dll&BU=http%3A%2F%2Fdb.library.queensu.ca%2Fmarmus2%2Fmarmus.htm&TN=MTemplate&SN=AUTO21333&SE=99&RN=0&MR=20&TR=0&TX=1000&ES=1&CS=1&XP=&RF=Search+results-Pub&EF=Main&DF=Main&RL=1&EL=1&DL=1&NP=3&ID=&MF=mymsg.ini&MQ=&TI=0&DT=&ST=0&IR=0&NR=0&NB=2&SV=0&SS=0&BG=cecece&FG=00&QS=marmus&OEX=ISO-8859-1&OEH=ISO-8859-1 | 23 of 30 | 2001.066.0477. | DocPictorial | THE "C&C 32" SAIL DIMENSIONS | | "C&C 32" | View | | 24 of 30 | 2001.066.0304. | Docarchival | SCRAPBOOK | | "ABRAXUS" "ACADIA" "ADRIADNE" edited for clarity "C&C 27" "C&C 29" "C&C 30" "C&C 31" "C&C 32" "C&C 33" "C&C 34" "C&C 35" "C&C 36" "C&C 37" "C&C 38" "C&C 39" edited for clarity | View | | 25 of 30 | 2001.066.0305.0003 | Docarchival | SCRAPBOOK | | "C&C 32" | View | | 26 of 30 | 2001.066.0305.0048 | Docarchival | SCRAPBOOK | | "MORNIG STAR" "WENDEN" "C&C 32" | View | | 27 of 30 | 2001.066.0305.0057 | Docarchival | SCRAPBOOK | | "C&C 32" | View | | 28 of 30 | 2001.066.0305.0065 | Docarchival | SCRAPBOOK | | "C&C 25" "C&C 32" | View | | 29 of 30 | 2001.066.0305.0101 | Docarchival | SCRAPBOOK | | "C&C 32" "C&C 34" "C&C 37" "C&C 40" | View | | 30 of 30 | 2001.066.0305.0104 | Docarchival | SCRAPBOOK | | edited for clarity "SILVER SADDLE" "C&C 32" "C&C LANDFALL 43" | and I'm sure there is more out there. Hope this helps JohnKelly Cuthbertson Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C drawings at Kingston Maritime Museum
Yes the link to your database would be nice. Thanks, Envoyé à partir de Yahoo Courriel sur Android Le mer., déc. 30 2020 à 9:34, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List a écrit : Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C Rendezvous at Maritime Museum in Kingston?
Love the idea. If done before end of Septembre, could also be a "On the water" rendez-vous for a lot of C&C in Kingston region, me being one of them. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 Le samedi 9 janvier 2021 10 h 40 min 07 s HNE, Robert Mazza via CnC-List a écrit : Thanks Dennis, Yes, lots of elements to put together to make this the successful event it is destined to be. The primary question is who would organize it? I can coordinate the Marine Museum's involvement, but we will also need someone or a group to represent the C&C community. There used to be an annual C&C Regatta on Lake Ontario, so I suspect there will be great local response to this event. Initial response from the Kingston Yacht Club is positive, but a date will need to be chosen that blends with Kingston's busy sailing schedule that includes CORK specifically. Kingston also sits between the two popular Lake Ontaro cruising grounds of the Bay of Quinte and the Thousand Islands, so boats attending this rendezvous will have excellant options before and after. It would be great if people could drive or fly to this event if they can't come by boat. Lots to think about, but well worth doing. Rob On Sat, Jan 9, 2021, 8:58 AM Dennis C., wrote: Rob Nothing sacred about fall 2022. Was just guessing the museum might have the exhibits ready by then. If it pushes to spring 2023 or moves up to spring 2022, no biggie. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Fri, Jan 8, 2021 at 10:32 PM Robert Mazza wrote: This is a very intriguing idea. This rendezvous would best be arranged in conjunction with Kingston Yacht Club and Confederation Basin Marina to handle that number of boats. Fall of 2022 would be worth considering. Let me touch basis with KYC and the Marine Museum. Red Jacket will be there and the Marine Museum is planning to have a new exhibit focused on the transition from wood to fiberglass and the founding of C&C Yachts. Yes, this might work. Rob Mazza Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Seacock Tee for winterizing the engine
Hi everyone, Whatever method used, drain both strainer and water muffler before circulating antifreeze. That pink stuff is lighter than water and will not displace the water in the strainer. After circulating one gallon of antifreeze, my strainer only had half an inch of pink at the top. Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 Le mercredi 5 mars 2025 à 01 h 35 min 26 s HNE, Richard Bush via CnC-List a écrit : Bob, thanks! I just didn't want tear into the wrong hose!!! Richard 1985 C&C 37, CB: Ohio River, Mile 596; Richard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255 On Tuesday, March 4, 2025 at 02:53:30 PM EST, Bob Mann wrote: Water pump is what I should have said instead of impeller. Bob On 03/04/2025 2:39 PM EST Richard Bush via CnC-List wrote: Bob, I am confused by the mention of impeller? Are we talking about the raw water intake for the engine water? Or something else? thanks Richard 1985 C&C 37, CB: Ohio River, Mile 596; Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220 (502) 584-7255 On Tuesday, March 4, 2025 at 02:30:24 PM EST, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote: Dave, that was probably me. I intercepted the hose running from the thru-hull to the impellor and put a T connection in it. The connection was purchased from an automotive supply store for radiator flushing (something like this: PEAK Flush and Fill Kit). I keep the screw cap on all summer. For winterizing, I close the seacock, replace the screw cap with a short piece of hose (like this: short garden hose - Google Search), fill a bucket with anti-freeze and put the other end of the hose into it. I've had to prime the hose with anti-freeze to create suction, but the engine will drain the bucket slowly, sucking it all in. Bob Mystic C&C35 mk I On 03/04/2025 11:48 AM EST David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: There was a prior discussion regarding winterizing the engine where someone described converting the engine raw water seacock into a Tee-fitting so that antifreeze could be run into the engine to winterize the boat. This would allow the process without having to remove the hose from the raw water strainer or the seacock. I can't find that email anywhere so I am wondering if anyone has notes on how this was done. I presume you would use a standard brass Tee fitting, adapters (all the ones I have found have female threads so require an adapter to add to the seacock) and two shutoff levers, one for each water path. Thanks- Dave S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated. Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated. Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated. Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated. Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated.
