Re: Stus-List Autopilot (Paul H.)

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Paul

I'd test it!  Until 2 years ago my boat had an Autohelm 4000 in use, it 
was fine for holding a straight line but not so good for tacking.  I 
actually sold it on ebay for an amount that surprised me.

Check Raymarine's web site, they have (had?) old manuals on there.  And 
it looks like a good install of the drive down below.

Your 3rd picture with the Brookes and Gatehouse is not part of the 
pilot, that is the old brain of a wind instrument.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-06-12 10:06 PM, Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:
> I have an old Autohelm 5000 autopilot...yes it appears to be original.
> Boats obviously relatively new for me and although an autopilot is on the
> wish list, its not here yet.  If this thing doesn't work or isn't worth even
> trying, then I'll immediately ripping it out.  I'd use the controller hole
> immediately for something else.  Here are the pics of the pieces.  It seems
> to be all there and I'm not sure where to start to test.  Not in the water
> yet.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWeWRDSl82MG1Wa2s&usp=shar
> ing
>
>
> Paul Hood
> '82 C&C34 Georgian Bay
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> .
>


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Re: Stus-List Friday Night Rescue

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Kudos Randy!

An experience I hope to never have (from either end of the action), and if I do 
I hope I do as well as you did.  My compliments to you and your crew!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-06-13 5:17 PM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:
Just a little story to share with you all.

Went out for a leisure sail Friday evening with my daughter her friend, in 
Beaufort 4 or 5 conditions.  We sailed under main only, and there was a 15" 
whitecap chop on the water.  Hardly any boats on the lake, but one windsurfer 
really hauling ass.

Out in the middle of the lake, we heard some yelling, and looked around to see 
three PFD-less people standing on a small low fiberglass fishing boat that was 
going down by the stern.  I barely had time to say "shit, they're sinking."  
Next time I looked, the boat was gone, and the people were in the water amongst 
various debris.  There were no other boats in the vicinity and I realized we 
were going to have to rescue them as quickly as we could.

Started my Atomic-4 without running the blower first, luffed my main, drove to 
them, and threw out my life sling.  Had to circle them three or four times 
dragging the life sling line by them, before we could get them all pulled in 
and aboard via the swim ladder.  I missed on the first try or two just due to 
the wind and water conditions and my main flogging.  One of them was about 30 
yards from the other two, who told me to get the lone guy first.  By the time 
we got the other two aboard, they'd been in the 68-degree water probably ten 
minutes.

Dropped the main, drove to the marina, docked at the launch ramp, and called 
911 for the first guy at the request of the second one.  I think he was very 
intoxicated or high on something.  He was incoherent and unable to move his 
body well, and it wasn't from exhaustion.  Plus his friends told me to get him 
first, so they must have known something.

Anyway, couple lessons learned.  First, my life sling line was not already tied 
off with the life sling in the bag.  It should have been.  Had to tell my 
daughter's friend to tie it off before throwing it out.  Second, in all the 
chaos we forgot to give them blankets when we got them aboard.  One went below 
and my daughter gave them all towels, but they were all at least very cold if 
not in the beginning stages of hypothermia.  Third, don't expect the Chatfield 
State Park rangers to respond to a mayday hail on VHF 16 - I hailed as soon as 
I grasped what was happening, to no avail.

It was lucky that I was in the right place at the right time.  There were no 
other boats around.  These three were too far in the middle of the lake to swim 
to shore and I don't know if they could have given the conditions (including 
theirs).  And I'm glad we were able to get a line to them before having to 
witness any of them drowning.  Couldn't have done without my daughter and her 
friend (both 22-ish) - that would have been too much for me to manage alone.

After we unloaded them, filed our statements, put the boat away, and drove 
home, we toasted the good things in life with many dark & stormies and 
whitecaps.  I'd never seen anything like that before, and I hope I don't have 
to again.

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO



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Re: Stus-List Time for new shore power cord?

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I replaced my shore power cord with a smart plug a couple of years ago, very 
happy with it!  I wrote a (positive) review for it that appeared in Good Old 
Boat a while back.   Recommended!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-06-13 1:14 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
I’m probably going to replace mine — but not the cord itself. I’ve heard a lot 
of good things about SmartPlug connections and will probably just upgrade mine 
to that.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2290035%7C2290039&id=1723147

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log






On Jun 13, 2016, at 11:56 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi  Y'all

A couple months ago I was reading about old shore power cords and their 
resistance and how that can cause serious problems..  It turned out mine looked 
like what Don Casey warns you about.. 
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1687/26304650791_2c79e2dd60_b.jpg

I'm glad I happened to read the article in Sail!

Using some West reward certificates / taking advantage of an early spring sale 
(That was back in march) I was able to get some inexpensive insurance / peace 
of mind.

The EEL model was reasonable in price and the new design plug with integrated 
led light are nice to use.

You might want to take a good look at yours.


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I had it happen last year, while being committee boat - so anchored in an open 
area, lee shore.  Thankfully our mark boat was a big one and could tow me in.  
New shaft and coupling...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-01 2:15 PM, TOM VINCENT via CnC-List wrote:
It seems this is the year for the shaft to remove itself from the coupler. I 
race on Wednesday nights on the Bohemia River and 4 weeks ago I had decided to 
go out early and warm up a little. I had to return to the fuel dock to pick up 
one crew member. I was adjacent of the pier and he hopped aboard, I slid the 
gear shift lever down, this puts the trans in forward, and nothing. We were 
slowly moving forward to the rock pile jetty at the end of the fuel dock and I 
start shouting for the crew to raise the main and get our butts away from the 
rocks. The wind was blowing abeam and it was impossible to raise the main, one 
crew member quickly unfurls about 10' of the genoa and we develop enough 
forward motion to provide me steerage. We barely missed ending up on the rocks. 
I had the marina haul the boat and they replaced the coupler and many boat 
dollars later, I am back sailing.

Tom Vincent
Frolic II, C&C 36'cb
Chesapeake City, MD



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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Mystery

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Did you set the drive configuration?  It has a few options - for a while I ran 
mine with the old wheel drive (before I got the linear drive installed) and it 
had an option for that...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-02 8:16 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Listers,

"Finished" the install of my Raymarine EV200 in the Enterprise, all connected 
to my old Octopus 1012 pump and linear drive.

The system powers on and I ran through the setup twice -- but no joy, the 
rudder doesn't move.

The pump has four wires. Two, orange and black, are coming out of the black 
part of the pump. I connected those to the "motor" connectors on the ACU. The 
other two, both red, are coming out of the "front" end, which I connected to 
the "clutch" connectors on the ACU.

The pump is at least 11 years old, possibly double that or even more.

Any idea if I have the wiring backwards? How does one test a hydraulic pump? 
Any suggestions on troubleshooting?

All advice greatly appreciated.


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize



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Re: Stus-List Furler

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Fasten jib halyard(s) and Spin halyard at the bow, and tension (reserve 
one halyard for hoisting duties, use the main halyard for getting up the 
mast).  Go up the mast and drop the forestay. Assemble new furler to 
forestay.  Haul new forestay / furler up and fasten at masthead, then 
fasten at bow.

I did essentially this, but with a new forestay.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-05 11:58 PM, Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:
> OKlearning as I go and this time I realized this should have been done
> while the mast was stepped...during the off season.  I removed foils and am
> trying to install Seafurl 5 (aka Hood) H253.
> I have a Navtec 0.25" rod stay.  It appears none of the components of the
> seafurl will fit over the coldheaded turnbuckle or the eye at top of stay.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWRHd3WnpyS0M3cWs&usp=shar
> ing
>
> I'm taking it in tomorrow to hopefully find a solution.  By phone it was
> suggested I bring in mast with it!!  Not going to happen.  They wanted to
> assemble the entire furling system on the stay and keep stay stiff when
> shipping, which is why the mast was to go with it.
> Otherwise, the option is to drill out the peen, screw off eye, replace peen
> with screw and send me on my way.  I will need to load stay with furler from
> top down then mount eye at top of stay.  That means I either step the mast
> or work on boat from top down.
>
> None of this sound really good to me.  Anyone experience something that
> works best?
>
> Paul
> 81 C&C34
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> .
>


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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Update

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Edd, I don't think you are supposed to go head first into the Jefferies tube!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-11 1:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Fred,

It was corroded wire that was the initial problem. Plenty of voltage there now. 
And yes, a very old drive. I may need to send it to Canada for repair/refurb, 
but wanted to see if any suggestions hit before I disconnect the hoses and 
wires.

One thing is for sure - I’m getting tired of being in this position: 
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t84cI65qdtE/TaxAHhoNrgI/BdY/74WdK5ON_Rc/s1600/photo.JPG
 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




On Jul 11, 2016, at 12:29 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Edd — the Octopus drives only have about eight moving parts, so there’s not a 
lot that can fail on them.  This is an older Octopus drive, right?  Maybe it 
would be worth sending it to them for diagnosis and possible repair/refurb.  
Also, have you checked voltage at the solenoid and drive leads while connected 
to the drive?  Maybe you have some corroded wire somewhere that’s causing a 
voltage drop.  You need to have good sized wire for the drive; not so large is 
needed for the solenoid.  I think we covered that in an earlier email off-list.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 11, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 wrote:

Listers,

Thanks to the advice here and from Gary at Octopus, I did some testing. I was 
able to get the solenoid on the Octopus drive to click on and off, and the 
autopilot did get the motor on the drive going (I could hear it.)

But, the wheel did not move. I added some hydraulic oil, but still no joy. 
Maybe the system needs to be bleeded? I also did the test in very rough 
conditions at the mooring, even though the instructions say it should be 
dockside. I’m close. I can feel it.

Any suggestions appreciated.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

_



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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Back Stay Adjuster

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I had mine rebuilt twice in two years, the second time seems to have worked 
(for a year anyway).  But if it goes again I'm just going to get a short piece 
of stay and a turnbuckle.  As a non-racing type (usually) I do not adjust the 
backstay anyway (usually).

You might try Southshore yachts, but with the age of the unit they may not want 
to touch it.  I used a local hydraulics shop, the seals are generic stuff so 
they can do it - just make sure they replace all the seals, my first experience 
was that they only replaced what had obviously gone - but all the seals are the 
same age so another went shortly after the first rebuild.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-16 10:07 PM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:
My 33 MK II has a Navtec Model IA 7 - 10 back stay adjuster.

I was out today and notic3d the fore stay kept sagging. I would pump the 
adjuster to tension it and in a few minutes it would release.

I suspect this is original equipment on a 30 year old boat.

I am wondering if others with this vintage boat have experienced this and if 
there is a fix?

I am in Sarnia Ontario. Are there any repair depots in Ontario I can talk to?

If you replaced the adjuster, what did you buy?

Has anyone tried to replace with a couple of Harken blocks?

As always, thanks for any response.

John on Enterprise



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Re: Stus-List Disassemble a Barient 22 Winch

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Bob

There is an exploded diagram on the L-36 page, which matches my 28s.  Are yours 
different from this?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-20 9:48 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
Peter:

The Barient 28 winch disassembles differently from the Barient 22..the 22 
doesn't have the 'lock' on the top as does the 28.

Find me the YouTube on the Barient 22 disassemble.I can't.

The frustrating part of this is that I took these winches apart 5 or 7 years 
ago but can't remember how I did it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-07-20 9:23 PM, Peter Delean via CnC-List wrote:
You can watch a young man service his Barient 28 winches on YouTube. Search 
"Barient winch service."
He spends a minute or two explaining how to get the lock undone without the 
original tool.

PeterDelean
Drifter II, C&C 30 Mk 1
Penetanguishene, ON

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Disassemble a Barient 22 Winch

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Or it could be that I didn't read the subject line.

Barient 22, try this one.  Doesn't have the 22 but I would expect the 23 looks 
similar.<http://l-36.com/read_pdf.php?file=manuals/Barlow-Barient-Winchs&title=%27Barlow%20Barient%20Winches%27>

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-20 10:19 PM, G Collins via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Bob

There is an exploded diagram on the L-36 page, which matches my 28s.  Are yours 
different from this<http://l-36.com/winches_pages.php?winch=bar28_2sp.htm>?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-20 9:48 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
Peter:

The Barient 28 winch disassembles differently from the Barient 22..the 22 
doesn't have the 'lock' on the top as does the 28.

Find me the YouTube on the Barient 22 disassemble.I can't.

The frustrating part of this is that I took these winches apart 5 or 7 years 
ago but can't remember how I did it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-07-20 9:23 PM, Peter Delean via CnC-List wrote:
You can watch a young man service his Barient 28 winches on YouTube. Search 
"Barient winch service."
He spends a minute or two explaining how to get the lock undone without the 
original tool.

PeterDelean
Drifter II, C&C 30 Mk 1
Penetanguishene, ON

Sent from my iPad
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.





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Re: Stus-List Cng pressure guage

[G Collins via CnC-List]

A bit over half full.  The ideal gas law says PV=nRT, and the only 
factors changing are P = pressure and n = amount of the material.

I keep track of my propane by weighing the cylinder.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-24 9:13 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
> We have been cruising over a week. Cng was refilled and at 2500 psi. Now 1500 
> psi.
>
> Does that mean nearly empty or half full?
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> .
>


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Re: Stus-List Cng pressure guage

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Tanks!   :-)

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-24 10:06 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

Perfect answer Graham!

On Jul 24, 2016 8:54 AM, "G Collins via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
A bit over half full.  The ideal gas law says PV=nRT, and the only
factors changing are P = pressure and n = amount of the material.

I keep track of my propane by weighing the cylinder.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-07-24 9:13 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
> We have been cruising over a week. Cng was refilled and at 2500 psi. Now 1500 
> psi.
>
> Does that mean nearly empty or half full?
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> .
>


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Re: Stus-List Marine Surveyor Halifax,NS

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Can't help, my favorite guy retired!


What boat, maybe there is some local knowledge...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
Halifax, NS


On 2016-08-02 11:37 AM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote:

Hello! Does anyone know a reputable surveyor in Halifax, NS?

Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



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Re: Stus-List Boarding Ladder

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I will second the comments about ensuring a good length of the ladder is 
underwater when folded down - my mother-in-law fell into the water one time off 
our previous boat, and could not get up the ladder - the lowest rung was barely 
below the surface.  After that debacle I invested in a lifesling, but on Secret 
Plans the ladder is a good rung and a half under  water, so it is much easier 
to get up.

You may not plan on swimming, but you should plan on being able to get out...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-08-13 2:29 AM, Alan Zuas via CnC-List wrote:
Hi,

I am relatively new to sailing and the boat life, and this is my first post 
here. I have a C&C 30' 1976 and love the boat. I have been working on different 
projects, and now I'd to install a boarding ladder on my boat. I looked around 
the marina and noticed a lot of people have their ladders right in the middle 
of the transom. I am a little hesitant since the rudder seems to be somewhat 
large and the last ladder rung might touch it or make it difficult for someone 
to get on the ladder. I was wondering what you think about this, and if you 
have ideas on where I should install the ladder.
the ladder is 3 feet long and 1 foot wide and has a hinge to drop it in water.

Thank you,
Ali
C&C 30 1976
Seattle




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Re: Stus-List Soliciting advice on self launching anchor friendly deck plate for 33-2

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Doug, installing an anchor windlass in the anchor locker counts as the single 
best (cruising) improvement I have made to our boat, I would be far less likely 
to anchor without it.  Highly recommended if you are cruising.

Anchor roller - I installed a Garhauer, works well.  But your geometry is 
different from mine, your mileage may vary...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-08-13 6:45 PM, Doug Welch via CnC-List wrote:
My 33-2 currently has a small single bow roller which I would like to change 
out for something a little more friendly for a self launching anchor and tack 
point for a code zero furling. If it's not sacrilege, I am also thinking about 
installing windlass in the anchor locker. I would appreciate any advice the 
group has on suppliers, gotcha's etc.

Thanks in advance,
Cheers Doug



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Re: Stus-List Boarding Ladder

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Well, there were witnesses...  say no more!  ;-)

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-08-13 12:31 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List wrote:
I fail to see the problem with the ladder. You don't want riff raff getting 
back on the boat.

My apologies to all mother in laws😜

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Aug 13, 2016, at 10:28 AM, G Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I will second the comments about ensuring a good length of the ladder is 
underwater when folded down - my mother-in-law fell into the water one time off 
our previous boat, and could not get up the ladder - the lowest rung was barely 
below the surface.  After that debacle I invested in a lifesling, but on Secret 
Plans the ladder is a good rung and a half under  water, so it is much easier 
to get up.

You may not plan on swimming, but you should plan on being able to get out...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-08-13 2:29 AM, Alan Zuas via CnC-List wrote:
Hi,

I am relatively new to sailing and the boat life, and this is my first post 
here. I have a C&C 30' 1976 and love the boat. I have been working on different 
projects, and now I'd to install a boarding ladder on my boat. I looked around 
the marina and noticed a lot of people have their ladders right in the middle 
of the transom. I am a little hesitant since the rudder seems to be somewhat 
large and the last ladder rung might touch it or make it difficult for someone 
to get on the ladder. I was wondering what you think about this, and if you 
have ideas on where I should install the ladder.
the ladder is 3 feet long and 1 foot wide and has a hinge to drop it in water.

Thank you,
Ali
C&C 30 1976
Seattle




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Re: Stus-List EV 200

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Adam

Re-run the dockside setup?  During the setup it should go both ways.

And one thing I found with the sensor puck for the EV200 is that they 
are sensitive to magnetic fields nearby - my wife put her bag with a 
tablet in it adjacent to where it is installed, the heading shifted 
maybe 5 degrees.

Failing that you could always contact Raymarine...  :-)

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
Halifax, NS

On 2016-09-04 3:27 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
> Hello all
>
> I have the new EV 200 which a wheel drive for the sailboat.  I have done the 
> installation and they system seems to be working however the wheel does not 
> seem to come back to starboard and the boat ends up off course.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> As a side note I installed the Control head beside the companion way as that 
> is where the existing control head was.   Also it's nice to get out the the 
> rain or of up here off of Nova Scotia.
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> .
>


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Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and autopilot business!

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Other vendors don't take this approach?  Sure they do.  I've got B&G Triton 
displays - can't do any updating on them without a B&G MFD.  Same is true with 
all that I'm aware of.  And I'd love to buy a Maretron ultrasonic tank level 
sender, it is N2K - but to calibrate it I also have to buy one of their 
displays, which I have no other use for.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-09-19 9:24 PM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
Now sells only MFDs with optional add-ons.  Like autopilots, VHF radios, 
standalone instruments...

S, after a some very cordial discussion with Raymarine this week, I learned 
it is impossible to update the firmware on any of the thousands of dollars of 
brand new stuff on Windstar, unless I also buy a Raymarine MFD.

This is an interesting throwback strategy in this app/software/digital age, 
kinda like finding out after the fact that you need to buy a $2000 Macbook Air 
to update your iphone.   (Let em try that on a millenial!)

To be fair, they were quite cordial and genuinely responsive, but their 
suggestions that I
-  borrow a MFD from a friend,
-  disassemble my boat and ship the bits to them when they issue an update, -  
-  hire one of their 'best in the business' techs to visit,
-   or just buy one of their excellent MFDs!
left me a bit cold.  Now I'm REALLY not gonna buy one.

I did some cursory checking, and other vendors don't take this approach.

Caveat emptor.

Dave



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Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Mine did that, I just replaced it with two nuts and a big fender washer.  Works 
for me...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-06-19 8:41 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
Hello,

My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the 
handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple 
replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it on 
SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the exchange it 
comes to about $60.

I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs about 
$40.

I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a cheaper 
way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I am thinking 
about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size thread, putting 
some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the handle. The idea is 
that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to the greased bolt. The 
thread is 1/4 - 20.

Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that the 
epoxy won’t adhere to it?

Alternatively, if one knows of a good source, I am all ears. A tractor dealer? 
Some other equipment that might use such a handle?

Thanks in advance

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON







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Stus-List feckless meanderings - Dylan

[G Collins via CnC-List]

The song Mr. Tambourine Man does have the line "take me on a trip upon your 
magic swirlin' ship", and there is a C&C here with the name Magic Swirlin' Ship

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-07-30 1:46 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
"I am younger than that now."

Must be a Dylan fan.
Does he have any songs about sailboats?  Anything we can adapt to old C&Cs?
Finally had a day under 90 F friday and went out sailing.  Winds at 20 with 
gusts as high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it was a great choice, 
although tacking took a while.  Once through the tack, the wind just kept 
blowing the bow down.  Had to gain speed and nurse it back to windward.  
Downwind was a blast!
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws

Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I get to Touché today to see 1/4 
inch Phillips machine screws on the vang bracket. :)

Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that now.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

One thing to remember about the Garhauer vang is that the attachment to both 
the mast and the boom are custom made for the boat (you send them the profile 
of the mast and boom when you order the vang), and the plates attached to the 
mast and boom wrap significantly around the spars. (On my 25 about half of the 
boom is cradled in the attached plate. ) So the fasteners connecting the plate 
to the spar are under primarily shear loading, not tensile.

For this sort of configuration, the additional cross section of the machine 
screw (or cap screw, if you use those) would seem the better choice. If, 
however, you have something like a Boomkicker, or a vang with “generic” 
mounting plates that don’t curve around the spars, rivets might be a better 
choice.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
Washington, NC

BTW, both have Garhauer vangs.





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Re: Stus-List Derelict C&C 24 MKII

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Look at the cost of replacing what you've listed - sails and running rigging.  
For that amount see what sort of boat you can buy...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-07 1:50 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List wrote:
I have had my eyes on a derelict 24 on our dock for months now.  My inquiries 
led the management to look into the status of the boat and owners, if any.  
Turns out it belongs to the marina and they are willing to take offers on it 
and 'don't worry about insulting offers', which I interpret it to mean, we 
would like it to go.  My offer is leaning to pay for the mast step and haul out 
to my 25 MKII trailer where I can transport it for long term renovation.

The staff pumped out 18" of water on the cabin sole to provide some inspection 
opportunity.  The most obvious problem is a drip from the blocks that lead aft 
to the cockpit.  I'm concerned this region contains plywood sandwich 
construction.  Even if it is only foam in the construction, and it is 
saturated, will it be possible to dry out without removing the 
fiberglass/gelcoat cabin top.  Both instances are rough with the former being 
very serious.

She has been in the water for many years, so it occurs to me she will have a 
blistering hull.  I would be in no hurry to get her renovated.  No sails, 
running rigging shot, even water dripping from the chain plates inside the 
cabin.  Gosh, I'm about to talk myself out of this!

Bill Dakin
C&C 25 MKII
S/V Tapestry




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Re: Stus-List Anchor alarms

[G Collins via CnC-List]

What do you mean despite its name, I use it because of its name.  Anyone sure 
enough of their app to name it that must be sure their app works...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-08 6:26 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Tom,

Despite its name, I’ve had very good experience with Drag Queen — 
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dragqueen-anchor-alarm/id489294173?mt=8 There’s 
also an Android version from Google Play.

To be absolutely clear, Drag Queen is an app to alert you if you are moving 
while at anchor, not a way to monitor what David Risch is doing on Saturday 
nights.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




On Aug 8, 2017, at 5:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Just dropped anchor in Blind Bay and was setting the Anchor alarm and was 
wonder what,idNythingother listers use to monitor their position at anchor.

I was using Boat Sentry, but they are not updating their app.  Using Anchor now 
and it seems simple and easy to use.

IOS here.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


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Re: Stus-List Hitachi Alternator woes...

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Take the alternator to a battery / alternator shop and get it tested, 
they can probably fix it.  Had to do that on my previous boat, volvo engine.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-13 12:38 AM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:
> Good evening all,
>
> A new one on me, my batteries no longer appear to be fully charging via the 
> alternator, while they do fully charge via shore power.   Specifically, the 
> (new) start battery sees only 12.56v while the engine is running, this is not 
> sufficient to close the ACR, and the house bank (2 ea, also new, group 31 @ 
> 130a/h ea).  therefore receives no charge at all.   Surprise!
> I believe this means the stock Hitachi 55a alternator is failing.
> Any thoughts on this and any recommendations on a replacement alternator?
>
> Thanks!  Dave.
>
> Windstar, 33-2 with yanmar 2gm20
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> .
>


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Re: Stus-List Oven thermostat

[G Collins via CnC-List]

You could use a hanging thermostat, one of the ones you put inside the oven.  
Requires that the glass door be clear enough to see thru...

Like this 
one.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-15 11:05 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
I have a Force 10 stove on Kaylarah and it annoys me that the oven doesn't have 
a thermostat (just a simple valve like the top burners).  Has anyone ever tried 
to put a thermostat in the oven of a Force 10 stove?

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
--
~~~_/)~~




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Re: Stus-List Oven thermostat

[G Collins via CnC-List]

d'Oh!  Did not read that clearly!

Apologies.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-15 9:52 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
Unfortunately, that is a thermometer (which I have) not a thermostat.

Gary

On Tue, Aug 15, 2017 at 6:44 PM G Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

You could use a hanging thermostat, one of the ones you put inside the oven.  
Requires that the glass door be clear enough to see thru...

Like this 
one.<https://www.amazon.com/Browne-OT84010-150-Hanging-Thermometer/dp/B000H30QB8>

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-15 11:05 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
I have a Force 10 stove on Kaylarah and it annoys me that the oven doesn't have 
a thermostat (just a simple valve like the top burners).  Has anyone ever tried 
to put a thermostat in the oven of a Force 10 stove?

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
--
~~~_/)~~




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--
~~~_/)~~




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Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

[G Collins via CnC-List]

My wife and I love cruising our 35-3, what do you see as deficiencies?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


From: Dave via CnC-List 
To: schiller 
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Congrats on the C&C 35 MK3. I own a 1984 MK3, am in 1st place in our Wednesday 
night racing series and enjoy the boat immensely. It's a pleasure to sail.

My wife, the boss doesn't race and would like to have more of a "cruiser". So 
although this will be a very hard decision for me I may be putting the boat up 
for sale in the fall.

Best of luck,

Dave J
Saltaire
C&C 35 MK3
Bristol, RI



From: "schiller via CnC-List" 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "schiller" 

Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 2:21:52 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Well, we went to Charlevoix to look at the 1981 C&C 32.  Not the boat for us.  
Interior has not been taken care of.  Buckets under the portlights to catch the 
leaks, forward hatch so crazed that it looks like it might break with a big 
rain drop, floor so bad that it was mushy in front the mast and head door.  Too 
bad really, it was really a nice layout.

So, called the owner of the 35 and negotiated a deal over the phone.  We will 
soon be the proud owners of a 1983 C&C 35, Mark III.  I talked with the 
surveyor that did the previous survey.  He has retired but has agreed to do an 
incremental survey.

Neil Schiller
Soon to be 1983 C&C 35, Mark III
Currently "Grace"
In Muskegon to be relocated to White Lake, Michigan

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 23, 2017, at 10:45 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Is the mast step a more difficult repair than on the 30-1?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL




From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: JP Mail mailto:jon.peterpr...@gmail.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Do make sure that with the 35-3, that you and your surveyor research then 
examine very closely the keel stub/mast step area.  Several on this list have 
repaired theirs, and a pro repair is an expensive proposition.

Dave
33-2

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

[G Collins via CnC-List]

This is true, but it is plenty big enough for two or three.  I'm going to stick 
with it...  :-)

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-25 9:51 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:

If you look at any recent CatBenHun in the 34-36 foot range, any version of the 
C&C 35 is going to seem quite small and cramped. Any of the 35s will of course 
sail 10x better, but that does not always matter to some people.

Warning - the "have to have it" aft double bunk under the cockpit is a long way 
from the air coming down the forward hatch and right next to the hot engine. It 
may not be the cruising paradise your wife thinks it is ;)


Joe

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

On 08/25/2017 07:41 AM, G Collins via CnC-List wrote:

My wife and I love cruising our 35-3, what do you see as deficiencies?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


From: Dave via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: schiller <mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net<mailto:davidjaco...@comcast.net>; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Congrats on the C&C 35 MK3. I own a 1984 MK3, am in 1st place in our Wednesday 
night racing series and enjoy the boat immensely. It's a pleasure to sail.

My wife, the boss doesn't race and would like to have more of a "cruiser". So 
although this will be a very hard decision for me I may be putting the boat up 
for sale in the fall.

Best of luck,

Dave J
Saltaire
C&C 35 MK3
Bristol, RI



From: "schiller via CnC-List" 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "schiller" 
<mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 2:21:52 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Well, we went to Charlevoix to look at the 1981 C&C 32.  Not the boat for us.  
Interior has not been taken care of.  Buckets under the portlights to catch the 
leaks, forward hatch so crazed that it looks like it might break with a big 
rain drop, floor so bad that it was mushy in front the mast and head door.  Too 
bad really, it was really a nice layout.

So, called the owner of the 35 and negotiated a deal over the phone.  We will 
soon be the proud owners of a 1983 C&C 35, Mark III.  I talked with the 
surveyor that did the previous survey.  He has retired but has agreed to do an 
incremental survey.

Neil Schiller
Soon to be 1983 C&C 35, Mark III
Currently "Grace"
In Muskegon to be relocated to White Lake, Michigan

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 23, 2017, at 10:45 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Is the mast step a more difficult repair than on the 30-1?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL




From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: JP Mail mailto:jon.peterpr...@gmail.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Do make sure that with the 35-3, that you and your surveyor research then 
examine very closely the keel stub/mast step area.  Several on this list have 
repaired theirs, and a pro repair is an expensive proposition.

Dave
33-2

Sent from my iPhone

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





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This list i

Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

[G Collins via CnC-List]

It must be a mid-atlantic thing, we further north know there are a couple of 
non C&C owners around here that are on the list, but they are good folks so not 
worth the trouble of keelhauling.  Plus Mike is bigger than me.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-25 5:56 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
Jerry,

You said: “may stop by for the rendezvous.  “

If they let you… I was threatened by keelhauling, when I admitted that I sold 
my old C&C 24 and bought a Catalina 270. This list is awesome, but some folks 
are pretty vicious (-;).

Good luck

Marek
1994 c270 Legato
Ottawa, on

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 10:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Jerome Tauber<mailto:jrtau...@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

I owned a C&C 24, 29-2 and 27-5.   I just sold my 27-5 and bought a Hunter 37.5 
1993 with a friend.  We wanted a boat that had two private berths.  He is more 
of a cruiser and I like a performance boat.  We looked at a number of boats.  
My first choice was a Tartan 372 but we compromised on the Hunter.  It had a 
reputation for being a good sailor and the interior volume is enormous for a 37 
foot boat.  It has a compromised 5' wing keel.  I've sailed it all season and 
can say it is definitely not a C&C.  Off the wind and on a broad reach it 
performs very well but does not point as well as a C&C with a fin. It has a J 
boat type rig.  Huge mainsail and small fractional head sail with a bendy 
tapered mast.  Sails are old and it needs some go fast upgrades such as a 
backstay adjuster, folding prop and rigid vang.  The aft cabin is huge and well 
ventilated.  And of course the price is well below a C&C of that era.  I'm just 
across Gardners Bay from Greenport and may stop by for the rendezvous.   Jerry

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 25, 2017, at 8:51 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


If you look at any recent CatBenHun in the 34-36 foot range, any version of the 
C&C 35 is going to seem quite small and cramped. Any of the 35s will of course 
sail 10x better, but that does not always matter to some people.

Warning - the "have to have it" aft double bunk under the cockpit is a long way 
from the air coming down the forward hatch and right next to the hot engine. It 
may not be the cruising paradise your wife thinks it is ;)


Joe

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

On 08/25/2017 07:41 AM, G Collins via CnC-List wrote:

My wife and I love cruising our 35-3, what do you see as deficiencies?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


From: Dave via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: schiller <mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net<mailto:davidjaco...@comcast.net>; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Congrats on the C&C 35 MK3. I own a 1984 MK3, am in 1st place in our Wednesday 
night racing series and enjoy the boat immensely. It's a pleasure to sail.

My wife, the boss doesn't race and would like to have more of a "cruiser". So 
although this will be a very hard decision for me I may be putting the boat up 
for sale in the fall.

Best of luck,

Dave J
Saltaire
C&C 35 MK3
Bristol, RI



From: "schiller via CnC-List" 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "schiller" 
<mailto:schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 2:21:52 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Well, we went to Charlevoix to look at the 1981 C&C 32.  Not the boat for us.  
Interior has not been taken care of.  Buckets under the portlights to catch the 
leaks, forward hatch so crazed that it looks like it might break with a big 
rain drop, floor so bad that it was mushy in front the mast and head door.  Too 
bad really, it was really a nice layout.

So, called the owner of the 35 and negotiated a deal over the phone.  We will 
soon be the proud owners of a 1983 C&C 35, Mark III.  I talked with the 
surveyor that did the previous survey.  He has retired but has agreed to do an 
incremental survey.

Neil Schiller
Soon to be 1983 C&C 35, Mark III
Currently "Grace"
In Muskegon to be relocated to White Lake, Michigan

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 23, 2017, at 10:45 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Is the mast step a more difficult repair than on the 30-1?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL




From: D

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I'm loving my hydronic system (Espar), I think though that they are more of a 
pain to install so you don't see them as much.  I can also heat wash / shower 
water with it, which is nice.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-29 11:31 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List wrote:
We have Espar (diesel) and Dickinson (LPG) aboard Paikea.  Recent work on the 
Espar reduced the number of heat vents to 3: aft stateroom, Head and under the 
chart table.  Too many heat vents pressure stressed the blower previously and 
“coked” the unit.  Really works well (blows hard) at this point and will drive 
you out of the boat with heat.  Most of the professionals I have spoken to feel 
the heaters should be used as hard as you can, as often as you can.  In other 
words, don’t buy more furnace than you need.
The LPG unit works well as a “take the chill off the boat” and “wow look at the 
fireplace” appliance.  We installed an efficient 12V fan just above the stove 
to drive the heat as far as possible.
I don’t hear a lot of people “loving” the hydronic systems unless you really 
step up and get a boiler.

Rick
Pike 37+
Tacoma, WA
On Aug 29, 2017, at 1:34 PM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Crazy legs I have a Dickenson heater for sale at mbsc if you'd like to have a 
look.
Message me for info
higgs...@hotmail.com
Dave
Zeilboot
30-1

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2017, at 12:03 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

For dry heat, Calder talks about a charcoal fired unit that is wall hung.  
Can't find the exact reference right now.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL




From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Ken Heaton mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

Hi Josh,

A/C ducts would have to be significantly larger in dia than the heater ducts 
need to be due to the smaller temperature differential for A/C so I don't know 
if this will help you much.  The output for my Espar is only about 3" in dia at 
the heater and quickly steps down in size as it branches off at the different 
outlets.

I have photos of some of the duct runs.  I'll take a look this evening.

Ken H.

On 29 August 2017 at 09:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ken,

I'm looking to better distribute the A/C in my boat.  I'd like to see how your 
heat is ducted.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Mark

I can't offer advice on what electronics to buy, but can on enlarging the hole. 
 I'd rather spend an hour poking myself in the eye with a pencil than trying to 
enlarge the hole with a dremel...

You will want a set of hole saws for this, and if you have both a 2" and a 
2.25" hole saw there are a couple of possibilities:

1) if the center for the hole saws will allow you to mount two saws at a time, 
put the 2.25 on first and the 2" on second.  This will let the 2" act as a 
center guide for the bigger saw.

or

2) use the 2" saw to cut a hole in a piece of wood.  The cut-out bit from the 
center is what you want, take that and glue it in the existing hole - hot melt 
glue will work, whatever you have available that will fill the gap.  Then use 
the 2.25" saw, the hole in the center of the plug will act as your guide and 
keep it from wandering.

cheers,

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-09-03 2:46 PM, Mark G via CnC-List wrote:
I have the bottom of my 25 Mk1 down to bare gelcoat.  I figured now is a good 
time to replace all the thru hulls including the old knotmeter and depth 
transducer.  These have not been functional since I've owned the boat.  I've 
gotten by with an old hand-held Garmin GPSmap 76.  To be honest, I'm mainly 
just looking to plug the holes in the bottom.  I managed to replace the old 
analog knotmeter with a combination of new and rebuilt parts.  I'm now looking 
to replace the transducer.  At some point the prior owner had a GPS or 
fishfinder mounted in the companionway because the bracket is still there.  I'm 
looking to do something similar.  I want a mounted GPS, and I want to be able 
to plug in the transducer for an actual depth measurement (rather than an 
approximate measurement from the electronic chart).  And I'd like to do this 
for less than $500.  I'm not looking to find shipwrecks or the last fish in the 
ocean, and I don't care about water temperature or what is 1000 feet below me.  
I just want to be able to anchor, avoid running aground, etc.  At this point I 
think what I want is an obsolete Garmin GPSmap or Echomap 500 series, with an 
Airmar transducer.  There's not much info online that's geared towards day 
sailors.  Any advice or recommendations?

Most thru-hull transducers seem to be 2.125 inches in diameter.  The one I 
removed is 2.0.  It's difficult to open up a 2.0 hole to 2.125 with a hole saw. 
 Would you recommend grinding the hole larger with a Dremel?

The transducer I removed was mounted in a wood fairing block.  The deadrise 
angle seems to be about 10 degrees.  I see that some of these transducers are 
internally gimbled up to 20 degrees.  Is that the preferred approach for a 
sailboat considering the heeling angle on opposite tacks, etc.?  Or should I 
just make another wood fairing block?

Mark
C&C 25
Dartmouth, MA



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Re: Stus-List paint off our hull

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Is your hull gelcoat or painted?  If gelcoat I'd try acetone.  Wear gloves!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-09-07 7:57 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote:
we had an excursion with a fish boat and we have a few paint scars to show. How 
can I get the paint off? I have been told that paint stripper is not suitable.



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Re: Stus-List Danfoss Compressor Controller

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Edd: my hull is #11, we are maxed out...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-09-19 7:14 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Glenn,

Honestly, the only thing I did was wiring -- a few were loose so I stripped, 
cleaned and made better connections.

That's when the lights came on and the plate started getting cold. The temp in 
the chest dropped 5 degrees in a half hour -- which leads me to believe the 
compressor works.

The control, however, has a dial that won't turn, stuck on the highest setting, 
7. (Personally, I prefer my knobs go to 11 -- and extra points to anyone who 
gets that reference.)

If it's really working again, I may just leave everything as-is instead of 
shelling out big bucks for a new controller for a 27 year-old fridge.

In your case, to test it, look at the wiring diagram and see if you can skip 
the controller and apply power directly to the compressor. One manual I found 
talked about a jumper wire.

Hope you get cool results. Good luck.

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+
Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Sep 19, 2017, at 5:42 PM, Glenn Gambel via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Edd or Tom,
How did you decide it was the controller and not the compressor?  Is there a 
way to test to determine if the current controller is bad?  My controller is a 
102N3030 12V DC with a 15 amp fuse.   I believe the digital control that you 
found on line will work in my boat, but I hate to spend $295 to find out it is 
not the controller but really the compressor or something else.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Glenn Gambel
Wind N Spirits
C&C 36

-- Original Message --
From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Edd Schillay" mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
Sent: 9/18/2017 7:46:30 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Danfoss Compressor Controller

Tom,

Awesome! Thanks!

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+
Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Sep 17, 2017, at 11:50 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Edd

OK, I located the info. The deal is that it's not so much the manufacturer, but 
the compressor.  These Nova Kools have a Danfoss.  These 4-pin controllers work 
with them.  It got the lead  from the folks at Sure Marine. They could not help 
due to the age of our units.  But they did some research and came up with 
these.   Guess I caught em on a good day!

Hi Tom,

The information David provided you is not completely accurate.
The 4-pin Danfoss was used by a bunch of companies.
it is definitely obsolete, but if you do a Google search, it appears that a few 
people still have stock.

http://www.outbackmarine.com.au/null~1325

http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/product/436/control-module-12v-dc4-pinfor-danfoss-bd3-earlier-compressors/


Kind regards,

Todd Glenn

*Sure Marine Service Inc.*
(206) 784-9903
(800) 562-7797
Fax (206) 784-0506

t...@suremarine.com

They're the best.

Tom B

At 04:56 PM 9/17/2017, you wrote:
--

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Re: Stus-List horn

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Next to the compass?  That can cause issues, don't ask me how I know...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-09-20 8:15 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Not a funny question. A horn handy to your reach could save you from a nasty 
situation.

I have a single drink holder by SnapIt on my steering pedestal guard that I 
keep a canister horn.

Dennis C.
Touché

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 20, 2017, at 6:39 PM, T power via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So here is a funny question from a new sailor, anyone have a suggestion on 
placement of a fixed horn on a C&C 30 MKI. I was a power boater before and it 
was always on deck.
Do sailboats even have horns or do you rely of the canister horns.
Cheers.

Tom Power
Invictus
C&C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk III Windlass

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Scott

mounted inside the locker, snug to the lid.

I'm running 60 ft chain and 150 ft of rope.

I also modified the locker lid to allow the rode to get in.

I can provide pics if you want.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-10-02 3:20 PM, Scott Baker via CnC-List wrote:
Hi all,
I’m interested in installing a windlass on our 1987 C&C 35 MK III.
I’m interested in any other owners with a 35-3 that have a windlass.
I’d love to know how you did it?
Deck mount?
Down inside anchor locker?
Chain only or Rope and chain?
Anyone have pictures?
Thanks,
Scott Baker





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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I rebuilt mine, the welds were very rusted so I had the web replaced.  It was 
somewhat a scary find.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-10-08 11:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
When we bought ours the surveyor gave cautionary guidance that water in the 
rudder was bad since it could cause the metal web inside to rust.  Eventually 
this could result in the rudder twisting freely on the post or even falling 
off.  His guidance was that the only good way to fix the problem was to have 
the rudder rebuilt.  He told stories of some people drilling drain holes but 
wasn't convinced that all the water ever made it out.  Imagine trying to dry 
your laundry by just draining the tank and opening the lid of the washing 
machine.  We were sufficiently scared by the possible consequences and had the 
rudder rebuilt the following winter.  In conclusion the steel web and welds 
were perfect and draining may have been sufficient - but for how long is 
anyone's guess.  Some people have a hard time sleeping on the hook.  Instead I 
have nightmares about killing people when the rudder, mast, or keel fail.

Here are the pictures that the fiberglass guy took during the rebuild.  They 
should help you when determining the internal structure of your rudder and 
where to drill holes.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Oct 7, 2017 2:56 PM, "schiller via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
One of the items in our new C&C 35, Mark III was that there was moisture in the 
rudder and the surveyor suggested drilling drainage holes.  Anyone want to 
suggest the location to drill?  We hauled out last night and I am going up to 
the boat to disconnect batteries on Wednesday.  I assume that the drainage 
holes will be in the lower quadrant of the rudder.  Should they be in the side 
or in the bottom surface (or does it really matter.

I never had to do this on my Redwing 35 so this is new to us.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan


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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C build files

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Agreed!  They are a business, and storing documents in a clean dry space ties 
up resources - if it doesn't make money it has to come to an end at some point. 
 I do remember the notification.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-10-15 8:56 AM, BillBinaList via CnC-List wrote:

South Shore made an effort to let us know before the files would no longer be 
available. This list was notified and it was discussed here. It was great that 
South Shore preserved them for us for so many years. They still have parts for 
our boats that are otherwise unobtainable. I doubt that is a big money maker 
for them, but they do it anyway. They deserve praise, not scorn. Blame the 
previous owner of your boat for not taking care of this and providing you with 
the build file when you bought the boat.

Bill Bina

On 10/14/2017 10:59 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:
I have purchased the build file for two prior C&Cs, and When I purchased my 37 
in 2014, I called south shore to inquire about purchasing the build file: I was 
told by south Shore that all of the files had been tossed because they "didn't 
want to mess with them anymore"...: I will not do business with them because of 
their senseless and selfish trashing of such and valuable resource;

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4:
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255





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Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I find the baby stay question an interesting one.  We've got the adjustable 
babystay, but don't race, so usually it gets tensioned at the beginning of the 
season and then at some random time during the summer someone kicks the clutch, 
and eventually I discover that it isn't tensioned.

Would it be worth a survey?  I'm curious how many owners actually have and 
actively use the baby stay.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-10-25 10:00 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Before investing lots of time, effort and money in reattaching your baby stay 
to whatever, give some thought to a larger questionis it necessary on your 
boat? While I am not a naval architect and have not recently stayed in a 
Holiday Inn Express :>), unless your mast is 'bendy' and absolutely requires it 
you might be able to "...forgetaboutit ...", particularly if your spreaders are 
not swept aft. Many masts of your boat vintage were more like aluminum 
telephone poles which would never bend fore and aft, baby stay notwithstanding. 
My 1995 36 XL came with a baby stay and a relatively bendy mast. The spreaders 
are not swept at all. Given that I have NO plans to ever take her seriously 
off-shore and I sail/race in the protected waters of the NC sounds and the PITA 
the baby stay is in tacking upwind and removing it for flying the kite, my 
sailmaker recommend it's removal, which I did and have never looked back. Now 
if I planned to go offshore, I would put it back on board for the SOLE reason 
of preventing mast pumping fore and aft--that is one gravity storm I prefer to 
miss!
Of course your use and the design of your boat might make its use mandatory but 
in my case, I am pretty sure it was added solely to stabilize mast pumping fore 
and aft. I avoid such pumping by sailing for pleasure in protected waters and  
have never missed it (but the attachment below and rod as well as the rolled up 
stay are kept on board anyway!

FWIW

Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then 
attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth 
area. I don't have a track on mine.

If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a lot of 
fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's  left if there 
really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much glass I would need to 
cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be.

I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded 
together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass?

Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's in the 
water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do.

Thanks,
Kevin

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, and 
dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would serve 
same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look around at 
what is possible since probably would be done this way today on a new boat. 
Cheaper, easier, better imo.

(my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water line in v 
berth.

2 cents

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Chuck, et al,

I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about assuming that 
the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At least that is my 
take-away from your description of it being “far in front of the keel” means.

With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate that the 
top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod descends 
directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to the 
waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The load is 
not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler track.

Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As I 
recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.

Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to this 
can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.

Hope this helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Oct 25, 2017, at 6:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Fred,


I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of the 
keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also. 
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794


That's how it is on my 34R.  On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a 
stainless bracket that is thru bo

Re: Stus-List Looking for a C&C 35 MKI

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Mike, why would you regret living in Nova Scotia, it is the best place to be!   
:-)

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-11-18 10:03 PM, Mike Casey via CnC-List wrote:
Regretfully  I live in Nova Scotia. There seem to be a lot of very well 
upgraded C&C 35's out there. Thanks!

On Sat, Nov 18, 2017 at 9:09 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Mike,

I have one for sale on the West Coast, Vancouver area.

Good boat.

Easy availability from Puget Sound to Alaska.

Cheers, Russ

 01:48 PM 18/11/2017, you wrote:
Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year for this, but if anyone knows of 
a C&C 35 MKI for sale, would you please let me know?

Thanks,

Mike Casey
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Re: Stus-List marinco 6079 installation

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Alex

Those are to make it easier to install in an existing structure - you can get 
the same thing for use in renovating a house.  The metal piece on the back is 
intended to hold it into a hole.  If you make a cutout the size of the box you 
can fit it in, the flanges on the front stop it from falling into the "wall" 
and the piece on the back is to tightened against the inside surface you've 
installed it in.   A face plate will fit over the flanges no problem.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-01-27 10:36 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List wrote:
I am re-wiring my boat and bought some Marinco plastic outlet boxes (P/N 6079) 
that were delivered with a metal guard that screws into the base and has 
flanges that are too long to come out flush.  Are these necessary and how do 
you install so you can get maximum benefit and are able to install the face 
cover?

http://www.marinco.com/en/6079


Alex Giannelia
C&C 35-II (1974) no 282
a...@airsensing.com




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Re: Stus-List AIS is alive!

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Or get an antenna splitter... That is what I've got, keeps the antenna 
farm less like a NSA installation...  Secret Plans on marinetraffic.com ...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-02-21 5:58 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
> The APRS system is not on right now, I am having an antenna shortage. APRS is 
> actually a lot better for me being not on the boat, I can see cabin temp and 
> battery voltage. OTOH it does nothing for safety, all the other boats and 
> ships see me with the AIS. I'll get enough antennas for all of them to work 
> at some point.
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
> Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 4:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Coleman
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS is alive!
>
> So are you using AIS to find your boat now, instead of that other electronic 
> widget you were using? Or are they both active?
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
> Barba via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 11:58 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joe Della Barba
> Subject: Stus-List AIS is alive!
>
> Look up Coquina on marine traffic.com.  I am famous now lol Joe Coquina
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
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>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
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>
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>
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>
> .
>

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Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Integrated Hydraulic & Industrial Services, at 24 Simmonds Drive in Burnside 
(very close to Burnside Fiberglass).

They did it twice - first time was good for a year, started to leak at the end 
of the season because they didn't replace all the seals - just the ones they 
thought looked bad.  2nd time they changed them all.  So make them change 'em 
all...  they will be the same age.

Jazz tonight - Pat Healy and Luke Arsenault.  They are very good, but not as 
good as Jeff's nephew who performed for us last week.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-03-22 1:06 PM, jhnelson24 via CnC-List wrote:
Dan,
  I think Graham had his done locally here in Halifax. If he doesn't respond to 
the list you might try Thursday night's at compass distillers. He has a jazz 
night there and I believe usually attends.



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

 Original message 
From: Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 

Date: 2018-03-22 10:18 (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daniel Cormier 
Subject: Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

Will do- thanks guys, I'm glad it's only a regular maintenance thing :)

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 22, 2018, at 12:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
> I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic fluid 
> around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably needs 
> replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has leaked out 
> and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had temperatures as low 
> as -19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if this leaking is normal 
> with a bad seal or is there more at play here with leaving my hydraulics 
> exposed to the harsh cold environment?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Danny

You are adding it to the edge of the plywood?  A nail won't do much there, and 
it may split the plys apart.  I'd just glue it with epoxy.  If you really feel 
the need to make the joint stronger you should get a biscuit joiner.  The 
resulting joint is much stronger, uses a wooden biscuit to make the joint - so 
no corrosion issues.  Not visible after assembly.  
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biscuit_joiner

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-04-02 11:41 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Ok, I think I'm going to go with the Bronze Silicon screws given the the very 
moist environment.  I am actively trying to chase down all the sources of water 
in the bilge but, until then...  As I understand it, SS doesn't really like 
like an environment that could be wet with little oxygen and suffers crevice 
corrosion.

I have another question in reference to this same project.  I'll be adding a 
solid 1/2 x 1 piece of teak to the edge of the T&H plywood to frame out the 
bilge opening.  My plan is to epoxy it there and finish nail it in place.  I 
can't seem to find any bronze finish nails.  Would anyone have any advice as to 
the type of nail and material.  Currently I'm thinking my only option is a 
stainless finish nail.  My question is more of what size, should I pre-drill to 
avoid splitting the solid teak edging?  Actually any insight or advice at all 
will be appreciated.

After this project I plan on going to the Salon to get my hair done and then I 
reckon I'll jump on my mustang, called Ol Paint to mosey on over to the Saloon 
for a whiskey and few hands of poker...

Danny

On 3/28/2018 11:01 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
I think you'd be better off with Robertson, instead of the #2 Phillips drive.

Ken H.

On 28 March 2018 at 09:19, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
HI, Has anyone used these screws?  I was thinking of putting my salon back 
together with them.

Thanks,

Danny


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Re: Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans.

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Brian

I replaced my forward hatch with a stainless ManShip 
hatch,
 I'd done the same on an earlier boat so I knew I'd be happy with it.  Also 
changed the mid cabin hatch.

My boat came with a mushroom vent in the head, slightly ahead of the overhead 
light.  I replaced that with a Nico solar vent, and have since replaced the 
vent - they seem to have a life of a few years, I can live with that.  I 
appreciate it exhausting air from the head, helps the air movement greatly.  I 
did dig out the balsa and re-fill with epoxy - the previous owner just cut the 
hole and dropped the vent in.

Pics available on request, what's your email?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-04-06 10:56 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List wrote:


I have a 35-3 and my solar vent fan is though my forward hatch. Have any 35-3 
owners put their solar vent fan through the deck, possibly into the head and do 
you have pictures? I’m considering moving mine since I’d like more natural 
light coming in the v-berth. In addition all my hatches have the spider cracks 
in them has anyone replaced their acrylic with Plexi, sent their hatches to 
Select Plastics in Norwalk, CT to be refurbed or replaced them all together 
with Bomar or Lewmar hatches? I’m interested in everyone’s opinions and 
experience.

Thanks,

Brien Sadler
S/V TAZ
C&C 35-3
Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans.

[G Collins via CnC-List]

My first died when the bearings went in the fan motor.  3 years old, I can live 
with that.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-04-08 11:38 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List wrote:
I found that the reason my nicro vent failed was the rechargeable battery died. 
 Replacing the battery fixed the problem, but even removing the battery 
resulted in the vent fan running when sunlight hit it.  The dead battery sucked 
up all the solar energy.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 37/40+



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: G Collins via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 4/7/18 7:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: G Collins <mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatches and Vent fans.


Hi Brian

I replaced my forward hatch with a stainless ManShip 
hatch<https://www.marinedepotdirect.com/low-profile-deck-hatches-inside-opening-only.html>,
 I'd done the same on an earlier boat so I knew I'd be happy with it.  Also 
changed the mid cabin hatch.

My boat came with a mushroom vent in the head, slightly ahead of the overhead 
light.  I replaced that with a Nico solar vent, and have since replaced the 
vent - they seem to have a life of a few years, I can live with that.  I 
appreciate it exhausting air from the head, helps the air movement greatly.  I 
did dig out the balsa and re-fill with epoxy - the previous owner just cut the 
hole and dropped the vent in.

Pics available on request, what's your email?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-04-06 10:56 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List wrote:

I have a 35-3 and my solar vent fan is though my forward hatch. Have any 35-3 
owners put their solar vent fan through the deck, possibly into the head and do 
you have pictures? I’m considering moving mine since I’d like more natural 
light coming in the v-berth. In addition all my hatches have the spider cracks 
in them has anyone replaced their acrylic with Plexi, sent their hatches to 
Select Plastics in Norwalk, CT to be refurbed or replaced them all together 
with Bomar or Lewmar hatches? I’m interested in everyone’s opinions and 
experience.

Thanks,

Brien Sadler
S/V TAZ
C&C 35-3
Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Blue Sea Add A Battery Kit

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Mine turns off both.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-04-08 1:40 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List wrote:
Hello

Last year when we installed a new engine we had the local mechanic do two 
things.  Align the engine and do the wiring.  This is question about the wiring 
for people who have the same Blue Sea kit.

To manage the batteries we are using the Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus 5511e 
switch and the 7610 ACR.  Although we already had the ACR these two combined 
are what Blue Sea call the Add A Battery Kit.  Both of these are connected 
correctly but the behaviour seems wrong to us.  When we set the 5511e to 'Off" 
it turns only one of the batteries off.  In our case it leaves the house 
battery connected through the switch and disconnects the starter battery.  
Using and ohm meter with the batteries disconnected we have found that in the 
'Off' position only one side of the switch is closed and the other open.  So it 
is the switch doing this, not some bad wiring going to the house.  This seems 
like a faulty switch to us.

Here is the catch.  We contacted the company that sold us the switch and 
installed it, Gartside, and they said that is the way it is supposed to work.  
It should only turn off the starter battery.  I have looked at all the Blue Sea 
material and this seems wrong to me, according to the literature, but it never 
specifically says what is done in the 'off' position, but it certainly seems to 
imply that both sides should be turned on and off simultaneously.  It also has 
a combined mode, but that is a separate thing.

Does anyone else have this setup and how does yours work.

Thanks
Don
Andante, C&C 34
Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List Rocha

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Anchor weldment?  What anchor weldment???

Mine came with a clean bow.  I bolted on a Garhauer roller, and I'm 
running a Rocna 15 in it.

Before I went too far I traced one, cut it out in plywood, and played 
with it to be sure I'd be OK with the fit.  Or find someone local with 
one and borrow it?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-04-29 2:35 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Quick question to all the 35-3 owners. Does anyone have a Rocna anchor and if 
> so does the standard Rocna fit or do I need the Vulcan to fit that anchor 
> roller weldment? Thanks for the help.
>
> P.S. I’m not looking to get into the anchor debate I did a bunch of research 
> none are perfect and anything I feel is better than the tired CQR that I have 
> now.
>
> Thanks
>
> Brien Sadler
> S/V TAZ
> 1987 C&C 35-3
>
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[G Collins via CnC-List]

One run of hose connecting two pumps in series?  A separate hose for each bilge 
pump would be more usual and a better arrangement.  For example, what happens 
if the bellows on one of the pumps cracks?  Then you have no working bilge 
pumps.  Plus it adds a restriction where you really might not want one.

I've got two manual pumps, separate hose runs and 2 thru-hulls.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-01 9:44 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List wrote:
I wondered about that. However, the large vinyl hose with metal coil 
reinforcement seems more like a manual pump hose size. Perhaps the two manual 
pumps had separate hoses and thru hulls at some point?
Wade

On Tue, May 1, 2018, 05:41 Josh Muckley via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
The PO probably had an extra electric bilge pump which has since been removed.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 11:58 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

I have a 1986 C&C 33 MK II.  As well as the electric bilge pump I have the 
usual Manual bilge pump in the cockpit.  In addition, there is another manual 
bilge pump in the cabin mounted under the Port side settee along the forward 
bulkhead.  This cabin bulge pump hose runs to the cockpit bilge pump which then 
discharges to a through hull just under the transom.  The curious part is that 
there are two thru hulls, side by side under the transom.  The second thru hull 
has a bilge hose which runs forward and dead ends in the bilge with no pump or 
fittings between the ends.  No other 33 MK II in my harbour has this second 
through hull or "dead end" hose.  Does anyone know why this hose is present?

many thanks,  Wade
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Re: Stus-List Dow 795

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I've got nothing.  Try the glass shops?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-23 10:27 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
> Does anyone in the Halifax, Nova Scotia area know a source / retailer 
> for Dow 795?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N. S.
>
>
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> .
>

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Re: Stus-List installing a Lewmar V series windlass on a LF38

[G Collins via CnC-List]

More than one!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-23 10:46 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
John,

One lister here installed a windlass shelf inside his anchor locker. Very 
impressive work.

http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/10/anchor-windlass-shelf.html

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log



On May 23, 2018, at 9:37 AM, John via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hello I am looking for any suggestions on Where to position and mount a Lewmar 
V-series windlass on the deck of a CCLF38 so the motor unit is protected from 
saltwater and the gypsy directs the chain feed into the anchor locker. Pictures 
would also be very helpful.

Thanks
Sent from my iPhone



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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dan

I'd take the nuts and washer off, and rig up some sort of press.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-24 1:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS





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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

You can also screw a grease gun fitting into the threaded holes on either side, 
and pump some grease in.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-24 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.

/J

On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan 
mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>> wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS


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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on the 
stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.

Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it as it 
made it a lot faster to turn the cone.

Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
ground one down to fit the inside nut.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks Rick,

So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I stopped 
up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively down both 
scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles and put a 
wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with a rubber 
mallet to no avail.

There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe trick 
but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will send an 
update then!

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dan;

The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind of 
like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.

The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. There is 
a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered plug into the 
tapered body of the through hull.

If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove it, 
just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to soak in a 
bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. Neither the nut or 
the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A sound tap or two will move 
the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break the bond of the internal 
corrosion.

When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what keeps 
water from leaking around the plug.

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a liquid 
penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances are most of 
it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a way to plug the 
seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the top of the plug when 
you pour from the top it may then seep around the plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total), sprayed 
inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have loosened that 
tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my mind, but now it 
makes complete sense. I can try spraying from undneath/outside the boat which 
would have the same effect as spraying from the removed hose?

Dan



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dan

I've only lapped the leaking ones (three of mine).  The others, I periodically 
(every couple of years) put grease nipples on and crank in some waterproof 
grease - Loctite Viperlube (Schooner Industrial in Burnside).

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-26 3:49 PM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List wrote:
They both appeared very smooth- just black tarnish and small amount of pitting 
around the holes but they didn't appear to be in dire need of lapping or 
grinding. There was no build-up or scoring on the inner drums. The outer drum 
is hard to tell.

Do all of you do a round of lapping when you service these?

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On May 26, 2018, at 3:32 PM, Kevin Paxton 
mailto:kpax...@paxdesigns.com>> wrote:

Lapping compound is needed to smooth out the surfaces so that they join 
properly and provide a good seal. If they aren't smooth, then the possibility 
of a leak is far greater. Check out that link I provided on the servicing of 
them and it explains it really well.

On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:21 PM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it gave 
after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the end of 
my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage to 
anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a non-scratching 
scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One drum looked smooth, 
the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't have any lapping compound 
so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how important is the lapping compound 
step?

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on the 
stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.

Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it as it 
made it a lot faster to turn the cone.

Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
ground one down to fit the inside nut.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks Rick,

So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I stopped 
up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively down both 
scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles and put a 
wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with a rubber 
mallet to no avail.

There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe trick 
but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will send an 
update then!

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dan;

The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind of 
like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.

The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. There is 
a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered plug into the 
tapered body of the through hull.

If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove it, 
just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to soak in a 
bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. Neither the nut or 
the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A sound tap or two will move 
the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break the bond of the internal 
corrosion.

When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what keeps 
water from leaking around the plug.

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a liquid 
penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances are most of 
it will pass through onto the ground.  If you c

Re: Stus-List Spring Shakedown Cruise

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Neil

Any time I have to climb back there I remove the hose for the port cockpit 
drain (close the seacock first!!).  Makes it easier to slide back there.  Still 
no fun 'tho.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-28 9:03 PM, schiller via CnC-List wrote:
We had a nice weekend up at the boat.  Went up Friday to bend the main on.  We 
took up our spare main earlier to try (it seemed a bit crisper) but found that 
the battens are a different length between the two mains and rather than cut 
the only set we have to fit the spare, we brought up the main that was on the 
boat when we got it last September.  Had to move the strong track hardware from 
one sail to the other.  Also gave us a chance to continue varnishing the teak 
taffrail, handrails and companionway.

Helped a friend take his Pierson Ensign from our marina to its home on a ball 
near White Lake Yacht Club Friday night.  Practiced for the Queen's Cup on 
Glenn Gambel's C&C 36 on Saturday and finally got our C&C 35-3 out Sunday for a 
nice cruise on the big lake.  Water temps fell from the low 70's on White Lake 
to 60 degrees F (1.5 feet below surface) on Lake Michigan 3 miles out.  Lot of 
haze threatening to turn to fog anytime.  Saturday the fog would roll in and 
roll out in minutes.

The only shake down issue that we found were the main and jib halyards on our 
new Cajun Rope running rigging kit were slipping in the rope clutches.  After 
we got back, I found an FAQ posting from Cajun that recommended scrubbing the 
lubricants off the rope were the clutches need to grab.  That seemed to work 
well with the jib.  Will scrub the main next time we are up (this weekend, most 
likely).

Working on the Wheel Pilot installation.  Not fun.  The access is pretty 
limited to get back to the rudder post to add the rudder position sensor.  
Built a platform for the sensor to mount on, now have to crawl in to mount the 
platform and the sensor.  We miss Otto!

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC



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Re: Stus-List Autopilot selection and install

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Allan

It is probably possible, on my 35-3 there was room under the quadrant to 
add a tiller arm (I actually bolted mine to the quadrant for additional 
support).  I had enough exposed shaft, with keyway, to fit it.  My pilot 
drive (a Raymarine, type 1 I think) runs from the tiller arm to a pad I 
glassed in just behind the end of the quarter-berth.  Did most of the 
work through that tiny access hatch.  I can take a pic or two if you are 
interested.  Yes, no fun to install but great now.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-06-02 12:58 PM, Allan Hester via CnC-List wrote:
> Hi Fred and listers,
>
>
> As you know, I am considering a new autopilot. Autopilots are something I 
> know nothing about.
>
>   The Raymarine ST4000 currently installed works but it is very old and is 
> not capable of steering the boat straight in anything other than a relatively 
> flat sea state.
>
> However, it does the job, after a fashion. Its also quite noisy. Everytime it 
> adjusts course it squeaks. It may only need some lubrication. I will 
> lubricate the wheel over the next few days. Are the new units noisy?
>
> I have been in the port side lazarette many times. As you can appreciate it 
> is a cramped space. I installed a new Espar heater last winter and crawling 
> in that hole was very uncomfortable even with the port scupper hose removed.
>
> I have no plans to sail offshore in a C&C 35. So I wonder if the added 
> expense and difficulty of install for an under deck autopilot is really 
> necessary? Perhaps the new wheel pilots will track better than my old ST4000 
> and offer
> strong, reliable, quiet performance?
>
> I have taken a cursory look the quadrant and rudder post in the past. It 
> doesn't appear to me there is any room to attach anything to the post. I 
> think my only option in that regard is doing what Paul did on his LF 38 and 
> attach
>
> the drive to the quadrant.
>
> This is a project that I will tackle after the current sailing season. At 
> this point I am looking for advice from those who have experience in this 
> area.
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice you and listers can offer.
>
> AL H.
> C&C 35 mk3
> Pacific Ranger
> Vancouver
>
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> .
>

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Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Lyle is great.  Was a great sailing instructor for my wee one as well.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-06-24 10:17 PM, Derek Kennedy via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Mike. On your recommendation I tried to chase down a dealer for Water Witch. 
Stright-MacKay said they don't sell the product, although they're listed on the 
waterwitchinc web site.

The web site recommends ordering from a Canadian dealer to save on shipping 
fees, etc. I emailed the company asking for an east-coast Canadian dealer and 
was referred to Western Marine, in Vancouver; not really east coast.

I was in Halifax over the weekend, picking up an order at The Binnacle. I asked 
Lyle Dobbin if he knew of the product. Within 2 hrs he texted me to say he 
could get me a Model 101. He suggested that I act quickly and hope his dealer 
had stock to avoid the new import duties.

I'll have to wait a bit for delivery, but I'm really happy with the service.

Thanks to you and to Lyle.

​
Derek Kennedy
C&C30mk1 #553 "Tortuga"
Ballantyne's Cove, NS



On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 2:50 PM, Hoyt, Mike 
mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>> wrote:
Hi Derek

I believe we have the Model 101 series switch mated to a PAR 36680-2000 
diaphragm pump.The switch we have can be seen at this link 
https://waterwitchinc.com/bilge-switches/

I cannot remember where I purchased it but I see that Water Witch sells on-line.

One of the great things about this switch compared to a float switch is the 
ease of mounting.  I zip tied it to a keel bolt and was done in less than 5 
minutes.  Now that I think about it am wondering if that may eventually cause 
problems with wiring and metal touching the keel bolt though …

The diaphragm pump is located in the galley under the sink and allows the 
pickup to be less than 1cm from the bottom of bilge.  With the water witch 
switch located low in bilge also and the fact that the switch runs for a few 
seconds after water level below its contact area the bilge is pretty dry.

The main downside of the diaphragm pump is the flow rate which is much less 
than other types of bilge pumps.

I think all of this was discussed a few years ago on this list.  That is where 
I found out about this switch.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Tortuga [mailto:tortugas...@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2018 2:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: recommendations for a small bilge pump

Hi Mike
Can you elaborate on which Witch you have? I haven't heard of them before but 
they sound super. The web site shows Stright MacKay as a dealer, but I can't 
find one in the new catalog.

Also will you name your pump? Thanks

​​
Derek Kennedy
 C&C30mk1 #553 "Tortuga"
Ballantyne's Cove, NS




--
Derek Kennedy
Cel: (902)863-7628
Home: (902)863-9219



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Re: Stus-List new mast step question and a lot of FYI

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Matthew

Interesting.  I had a void behind the mast step, not in front of it.  In 
front and under was totally filled with some sort of high density foam 
filler.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-06-26 3:37 PM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List wrote:
> Hello CnC list,
>
> I purchased The Office a couple years ago and was told by my surveyor that 
> all the mast step needed was a 3/8” piece of fiberglass added to raise it up 
> to make the flooring match. He didn’t feel the 3/8” depression was a 
> structural problem.
>
> Of course my first year on the hard the mast step was looked at and all 
> others insisted it needed a total rebuild. My first estimate was 8K. I put 
> this off a season and then found someone who did it for 6K. I am happy I 
> didn’t try to do it myself, I hate creating in fiberglass and epoxy, and 
> structurally this was way beyond my skill set. When doing the work Joe, my 
> fiberglass guy, noticed that there is a void in front of the mast step and it 
> was filled with very old stinking water. Though I leaned toward filling it 
> in, I didn’t see how this was ever intended to be part of the bilge system, 
> instead, Joe added a PVC pipe, about 1” in diameter, in the center of the 
> mast step to allow for this forward area to drain.
>
> Splash the boat and I start to notice my bilge is working really hard. After 
> a race my crew noticed the boat was sinking, add a newly broken wire on my 
> bilge pump, I finally studied the situation and found a constant flow of 
> water from the tube that was added to mast step. After discussion with Joe we 
> realized that a small crack that I thought I saw, then decided was nothing, 
> must have been in play.
>
> I pulled the boat out that week and what looked like a tiny tiny crack before 
> was now a good sized rip in the hull. This is at the forward corner, just 
> before, and at, where the hull curves down to form the fin that the keel 
> attaches too. Obviously the void in front of the mast step was still filling 
> up and now draining through the new tube we added. If he didn’t add this tube 
> it would have filled up and we would have not even noticed, as before. And 
> obviously, this is why the mast step was rotted - the water that was being 
> carried just forward of the mast step, and it would have rotted again.
>
> In making the second repair, Joe said he found an old sub-par repair, with 
> foam, etc. He cleaned out the old repair, ground it down and built up the 
> fiber glass layers. Put on some barrier coat, I added some ablative and The 
> Office is in the water again. I was lucky this didn’t kill a month of the 
> season.
>
> Now I have to say I am still suspicious, why did this crack appear after 
> rebuilding my mast step? My theory is that the heat from setting the epoxy 
> did something to the old repair, though on the other hand, the fact that this 
> area was filled with water would have you think it was never done right at 
> all and was in play even if not very visible. I didn’t notice it before. My 
> surveyor didn’t see it, I doubt the previous owner was aware of it.
>
> Here is my question. Are people filling in this area in front of the mast 
> step? It seems to me to serve no purpose. The forward bilge seems to run over 
> this spot, and if water does get in there, as per the original design there’s 
> no way for it to get out. Sounds dumb to me. And filled in it seems it would 
> add something to the structure. Of course I’m not going back and doing this 
> now.
>
> Second question, it seems a rip in this area of the boat would indicate 
> someone had a hard hit at some point. Should I be concerned? I am not seeing 
> other issues.
>
>
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> 1983 C&C 35 mk3
> Nyack NY
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List Fun Sailing Videos

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I'm particularly fond of "Keep Turning Left", it is filmed and narrated by a 
middle aged brit who has taken on exploration of his island, turning left when 
he encounters the open sea.  Quite entertaining.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-07-25 5:03 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List wrote:
Am I the only one who sits up late on week nights sailing vicariously through 
others' YouTube  videos? (while usually knocking back a few cold ones)

My favorites are:

  *   S/V Delos - explores cultures of the world aboard a 53' Amel Super Miramu 
2000 with 6 aboard
  *   Abandon Comfort - young couple casting off in pursuit of minimalism
  *   Another Adventure - Key West minimalist sailor, series is in it's infancy
  *   Sailing LaVagabond - couple sailing the world aboard 45' new Otremer 
catamaran donated by the manufacturer
  *   Sailing Zingaro - minimalist couple DIY fix-it
  *   More daily...

Of course we sail every Thursday and at least every other weekend, so there's 
that. More cruising soon.

Anyone else?

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36 KCB Chamamé
DIYC Tampa, FL



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Re: Stus-List Grab rail replacement

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Use the router to round off the inside ovals before cutting lengthwise, that 
way you avoid risk of tearout and undercutting the base.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-07-27 8:13 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Chad,

Making handrails is fairly easy.  Get a piece of teak of adequate length and 
twice as wide as the handrail height.  Mark a line down the center lengthwise.  
Using the old handrail as a template lay out the loops.  Using a hole saw with 
a diameter to match the radius of the underside of the handrail, drill holes to 
layout the loops.  At this point, you can cut the teak piece in two lengthwise. 
 To make the arches, simply connect the holes with a jig saw or a bandsaw.  I 
use a Bosch 1587 jigsaw which, in my opinion is the ONLY jigsaw that reliably 
cuts a straight line.

Now cut the ends.  Use a router to round off the underside of the loops, the 
ends and the tops.  Poof!  Handrail!

Here's one video except the guy does one at a time.  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LPPM-vZhH0

Dennis C.



On Fri, Jul 27, 2018 at 4:52 PM, Chad Osmond via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok so I'll just plug the holes with a dab of 5200 and glue it up at home and 
see if I can make it look like new. If I can't at least I'll have a template to 
get my saw and router going.








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Re: Stus-List Head Problems

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Those are pretty good optics, but once while on a business trip to Toronto I 
bought a Jabsco toilet at the boat show (smoking deal!) and brought it back to 
Halifax as checked luggage.  The woman running the oversized bag x-ray machine 
laughed so hard I thought she was going to fall off her chair, and the woman I 
was travelling with refused to walk any closer than 10 feet away from me.  Got 
some good comments when it came out on the baggage conveyor...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-08-15 1:20 PM, Ainslie via CnC-List wrote:
I want to put in a plug for the new Jabsco Twist-n-Lock manual head I installed 
this year. After 3 years of “encore” reappearances of tank contents under way, 
and no improvement by replacing joker valves several times a season, I was 
ready to try any solution under a million dollars! Happily, the Twist-n-Lock 
was well under $200 at the Boat Show (not to mention the priceless optics of my 
wife and I lugging a toilet around for all to see).

We just completed an 800 nm trip around Lake Huron and Georgian Bay, and I can 
report there was not one unseemly encore, no enduring smell in the head, and no 
aromas in the captain’s quarters either. What a difference this made for 
everyone aboard.

Jason
S/V Spirit
’84 C&C 35 Mk III
Bayfield, ON
~~~_/)~~

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png]

Virus-free. 
www.avg.com




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Re: Stus-List 3D Print a Ritchie Compass Replacement Cover

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Geeze... some of us are under 60.  Not that long ago under 50...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-08-15 12:00 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:
Holy Crap, a C&C owner under 60!

That was my first take away from your great video –

Nice Binnacle Cover BTW . . .

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA[animated_favicon1]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 10:19 PM
To: C&C List; dgcorm...@gmail.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3D Print a Ritchie Compass Replacement Cover

Nicely done Dan!

I'd be interested in more details... Like cost and color options.


Thanks,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Aug 14, 2018, 1:43 PM Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I recently replaced my Ritchie compass cover with a 3D printed one!
I have the Globemaster style compass (large model) with an original plastic 
cover. Ritchie only offers a soft cover now so if you want to replace the 
original cover you're SOL. My cover took a beating over the years so I had it 
3D scanned then printed on a 3D printer. It fits exactly like the old one. I 
have the files so I can order more prints from Shapeways, etc. If anyone has 
this compass and wants a print, get in touch and I can make arrangements to 
have one printed for you :)

I added a short segment about this in my latest video (first 1 minute):

https://youtu.be/HfJpPZNnpFo

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
H



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Stus-List sheet routing to winch - 35-3

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hey, this talk of winch lead angles has me pondering again the setup we 
use on Secret Plans, I'm wondering what other 35-3 owners do.  We 
usually run the jib sheets on the secondaries (aft pair of winches) 
because on the primaries the winch handle hits the dodger, and if we use 
the secondaries I (while steering) can also crank the winch.  The line 
comes off the jib track block, back to the cheek block adjacent to the 
secondary winch, and up at a horrible angle onto the winch.  Which leads 
to more friction than there should be.

I'm thinking of just going from the block on the track to the winch.

Any better setups?  Cutting back the dodger isn't on the table. How do 
other 35-3 owners do it?

regards,

-- 
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

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Re: Stus-List 3D File

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Rob Ball is on the list serv!  Cue the Wayne's World clip...  we're not worthy! 
 we're not worthy!

Seriously, welcome.  Can't help with the file 'tho.  I'd thought about doing 
it, but couldn't figure out the benefit other than the intellectual exercise in 
doing it (which is fine as a reason, don't get me wrong).

Couldn't you go old school, import the lines drawing and use the software to 
fair it out?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-09-05 12:20 PM, Rob Ball via CnC-List wrote:
As a new owner of a 34 (38 years old) I want to try to create a 3D file of the 
boat . . . . .
Does anyone out there have anything already that is close to a C&C 34  . . . . ?
I can manipulate a different boat if anyone has one that is similar  . . . .
I’m using a Program called MicroStation, but I can import most types of 3D 
files  . . . .

Cheers,
Rob Ball
Chief Design Engineer  Tel 508-995-9711
[http://www.edsonintl.com/signature/image001.gif]
Edson International
Email: r...@edsonintl.com[Edson  
- Home] 




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Re: Stus-List Curtains on C&C 34

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I bought slides pre-attached to tape from sailrite, looking at their web site I 
only see them individually: https://www.sailrite.com/Curtain-Slides-Tab-Style

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-09-25 2:06 AM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List wrote:
Hi All

The curtains on our 34 are getting rather old.  We would like to replace the 
curtains without replacing the mounting hardware that holds them. This, I 
think, means getting the right slides to sew onto the head and foot of the 
curtains.

Has anyone experience with this?  Where did you get the slides?

I've attached some pictures.

Thanks
Don
Andante, C&C 34
Victoria, BC


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VMPIP5ZCwZatb4YAFlD7quzUsID9BwfD/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19GAIeKoUFxDPdgoXlTE0yD-HvxvImA3Y/view?usp=sharing



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Re: Stus-List Rob - C&C long time question

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Here - collect the data.  Click the link, takes 10 seconds...  (unless you have 
a crappy internet connection, I can't be blamed for that...)

https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/FFVJKWL

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-09-27 9:50 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:
Hello Al,

I have a question for the list.

How many of you have owned your current C&C yacht for 5 years or longer.

FYI - we have owned Honey since October 1976 and are currently the second 
owners.


Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald,
HONEY - US12788
1974 C&C 39 TM
Savannah, GA 31410 USA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you



On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 7:53 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Question for Rob:
At the time, was the fact that C&Cs seem to be owned far longer than most boats 
ever discussed ? Was this considered a good or bad thing?
We have owned Coquina since 1977 and she is – knock on FRP – on track to be 
sailed by the third generation. I have sailed her since I was 12.
I recall a frustrated C&C broker telling me “No one trades up. Catalina owners 
buy boats every 5 years and you all keep them for decades!”

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

BTW – thread creep – Having a C&C 35 in the early or mid 70s was like having a 
Ferrari when everyone else had a golf cart. We bought one because someone else 
had one on the river and that boat passed the rest of us like we were aground ☺
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Stus-List survey results - how long have you owned your boat?

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Survey results can be viewed 
here.

--
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
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Stus-List baby on board

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Stephen, a baby on board can be readily done.  We bought our first boat when my 
wife was pregnant, using the logic that we'd be too exhausted and full of 
excuses after the baby arrived.

It just requires some planning and modifications to behavior.  I can singlehand 
the boat, so my wife was (unfortunately living up to a sexist generalization) 
on kid duty.  We put lifeline netting up all around 'til he was 5, and bolted a 
car seat down in the v-berth.  Going for an afternoon sail we would sail with 
him in the cockpit for a while, but then put him in the car seat with a bottle 
and blanket, he'd sleep a couple of hours.

Lee clothes also make a great pseudo playpen and a snug place for playing or 
napping.

I did once get a complaint that we were heeled over too far, his toys kept 
falling over, and I did have recurring nightmares of having a bilge pump 
clogged with Lego, but all in all an excellent experience and he is now an 
excellent sailor.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


I have owned DejaVu, a 1990 34/36 for the past 7 years.  She is my third C&C 
before her a 24' then another 34'.  We sailed the hell out of her all around 
the Gulf of Mexico but now she sits on a custom trailer in Pensacola Shipyard 
Marina.  The birth of a child will do that to you ;)   Thought long and hard 
about parting ways with her but I cant do it, so she remains sidelined and 
dearly missed for all the great adventures she surely brought to us all who 
sailed her.  Maybe I will bring her up to Lake Lanier and someday give her to 
my son Max, who is 2 years old.

Stephen Thorne
C&C 34/36 DejaVu




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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I can't speak to Adam's refit, but she sank at the dock at my home club 
(Bedford Basin Yacht Club), she was on the end of the marina in a big storm, a 
wave hit just wrong, mid finger cleat put a hole in the side.

We now have mandatory marina evacuation when the wind is > 40 knots, which 
people take seriously for some reason!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-10-03 8:09 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List wrote:
Adam,  that sounds like quite an undertaking; what did you have to do to get 
her up and what was her condition once you had her on the ground? Also, why did 
she sink in the first place? Thanks

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 602.2
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Adam Hayden 
Sent: Wed, Oct 3, 2018 6:58 am
Subject: Stus-List Years owned C&C

I have only been a C&C owner for 4 years.  I saved State of Bliss(previously 
Silver Tassie),a a C&C 36 from the Scrap yard after she spent 4 days on the 
bottom of Halifax Harbour.
Adam
State of Bliss



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Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Have one on a 35-3, no problem getting it to fit.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-10-18 9:48 PM, Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List wrote:
> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
>
> Will it fit?
>
> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
> altogether.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adrian Humphreys
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> .
>

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and autopilot business!

[G Collins via CnC-List]

You Ray haters kill me...   just kidding!  But sometimes it pays to read 
the manual before you buy, and they are all available online these days.

That Garmin thing is a cool solution, I like it.  The Navico (B&G) 
version doesn't seem to be available anywhere, so that may have been a 
possible route to firmware updates but no longer...

I guess my conclusion early on was to get a MDF that goes with the big 
electronics on the boat, so my a75 MDF can update my EV200 autopilot.  
And IMHO it makes sense to have the same brand of anyway, so that you 
are sure they will work together as best they can.  My wind/speed/depth 
system, since it is B&G, is essentially orphaned.  I'm not so concerned 
with that.  And I am quite happy with my Raymarine gear, whereas I've 
had two Triton displays malfunction on me in the same 3 seasons.

As to why you can't update one companies gear from another companies 
MDF, I can't see any company signing up for that - say I update my B&G 
firmware over my Ray MDF, and next thing my Triton displays are bricks - 
who do I call to get it resolved? That would not be a fun day.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-09-20 9:58 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:
> You raymarine guys kill me.  Defend it to the end and drag others down 
> when it's obvious that Ray falls short. I've been saying it for years: 
> friends don't let friends buy raymarine.
>
> Dave/others; Per Garmin FAQ, Here's the solution if/when you decide to 
> leave the raymarine dark side :
>
>


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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Bob

That is not my experience, I've got a similar system, but an EV 200 pilot.  My 
systems are bridged by daisy-chaining one Triton display to a i70 display, the 
i70 is then daisy-chained to the p70, which connects to the Seatalk II 
backbone.  Works perfectly (knock on wood).  I must have done the voodoo 
incantations properly.

I would suspect it is a more robust system the way you have done it.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-09-21 9:01 AM, Bob Hickson via CnC-List wrote:
I recently bought a Raymarine EVO 100 autopilot to add to my existing B&G 
Triton speed, depth, wind instruments. The EVO autohelm integrated with no 
issues ... it displays wind speed and direction and it will sail to an apparent 
wind angle (even triggers the alarm if there is a wind shift). I spent hours 
with both B&G and Raymarine tech support over the connection issue. The 
Raymarine and B&G "nema 2000" backbone cables must be connected "end to end". 
To achieve this you must cut one end off the Raymarine backbone cable and 
install a Maretron connector ($20) that will plug into the B&G backbone cable. 
The connector is a bit fiddly with tiny setscrews but it works perfectly and 
the 2 systems talk to each other.


Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,
Sent from Samsung Mobile



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Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi David

Overvoltage?  Maybe the voltage regulator is bad.  The engine running will have 
the electrical system at > 13v, and the batteries will temporarily hold that 
for a while.  Could you hot-wire it so as to power the zeus exclusively from a 
separate battery?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-09-30 9:21 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I have posted about this problem before, but still have not solved it.  I have 
been struggling with a electrical system problem since I upgraded my 
electronics two years ago.  I installed a Seatalk network, Raymarine EV-100 
autopilot and B&G Zeus T8 chart plotter.  The problem is that periodically, the 
Zeus behaves like it has a mind of its own. The unit will begin beeping while 
the touchscreen acts like someone is activating menus and commands randomly.  
All kinds of problem ensue from that let alone that you can’t use the controls 
while it is happening.  It happens intermittently, sometimes with engine on and 
sometimes off and I have not been able to identify the source.  One of the 
things I have noticed is that it happens more often (but not exclusively) when 
the engine is running. Last weekend, I had an incident of this that might help 
someone understand it. I unplugged the Seatalk cable to the chart plotter to 
see if it had anything to do with the network (it doesn’t).  I had the chart 
plotter on for about 45 minutes while I did other things and all was fine.  
Then I started the engine and the Zeus immediately began beeping and randomly 
activating menus.  This continued for the time I had the engine running (about 
15 minutes).   So that would seem to point toward something people have 
suggested before- noise in the electrical system from the alternator.  Here is 
what I don’t understand- I shut the engine off and the problem persisted with 
decreasing frequency for another 10 minutes or so and eventually stopped and it 
worked fine thereafter.  If this were an alternator problem, is there some way 
it could persist for so long after the engine was shut down.Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]




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Re: Stus-List test

[G Collins via CnC-List]

What happened to it?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-10-02 7:22 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
> Dwight
>
> Find out who bought Third Wave from Steve Davies. It may have had st60. That 
> boat was recently written off (sad end to a 37R) and possibly there are 
> available parts or entire instruments
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, ns
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of dwight veinot via 
> CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: October 2, 2016 11:34 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: dwight veinot
> Subject: Re: Stus-List test
>
> Thanks I tried to post many times but failed on my gmail account, that
> was from my bellaliant account.  I can reply on gmail but I never see
> my posts on new topics.
>
> Anyway I sent asking for assistance from listers here with my
> Raymarine st60+ speed display head.  It shows only 0's and I tested it
> with 2 different transducers.  Got damaged along with my chart
> plotter, vhf radio and stereo I think during an electrical storm near
> end july which took out stuff in nearby houses.  I have the st60+
> package wind speed and depth plus a graphic display all mounted in a
> pod over the companionway, and all display heads match.  I understand
> that I can replace the speed display head with a new i50 head which
> will work with the package but I want to try to maintain the matching
> appearance.  A local marine electronics repair shop agreed to check it
> out even though they no longer service raymarine gear.  Raymarine has
> no repair shops around here so everything has to go to the US, that's
> what the Binnacle told me.  Problem with the unit is in a single ic
> chip that is supposed to send 12 V to the transducer but only sends 4
> V.  The tech informed me that the chip has no markings on it so he
> couldn't source a new chip which is all he thinks I need, not even
> from Raymarine was able to help him and what's more Raymarine no
> longer carry the board that contains the chip.  So I am asking here if
> anyone may be able to help me with identifying the chip or maybe where
> I can get the board that contains the chip.  Also I would be very
> interested in a used but functioning st60+ speed display head.  Thanks
> and sorry I don't know how to change the title of my post on this
> gmail account
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 2, 2016 at 10:28 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>> Loud and clear
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, October 2, 2016, dwight veinot via CnC-List
>>  wrote:
>>> Dwight Veinot
>>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
>> are greatly appreciated!
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> .
>


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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[G Collins via CnC-List]

The Panbo 
review
 talks about that, Ben's conclusion seems to be that the difficulty in getting 
thru certifying a combo VHF and AIS transponder is daunting enough, adding a 
VHF splitter to that would make the challenge too much.

But you can still add a splitter on your own...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-10-12 10:59 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
:(
That is 99% of the reason I wanted the combined unit. I wanted to use the 
masthead antenna for both.
Dang!
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 09:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

Hi, Mike — no, I highly doubt there will be any kind of upgrade path to allow 
the GX2200 to transmit.  That takes a bunch more electronics, and also a lot of 
FCC certification.  If you look at the new VHF/AIS transceiver, it’s actually 
got TWO antenna connections on the back; one for VHF and one for AIS.  That 
would be tough to add to the GX2200…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 12, 2016, at 8:26 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks Fred

We currently have the GX2200 which has AIS receive only.  Is there any 
indication that this can be modified to transmit AIS information as well?

We would very much like the ships to know where we are

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS




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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Only if you were looking to be ISAF compliant...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-10-12 5:55 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
ISAF requires that the AIS be connected to a masthead antenna.

So you would still need a splitter.

Joel

On Wednesday, October 12, 2016, G Collins via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The Panbo 
review<http://www.panbo.com/archives/2016/10/standard_horizon_gx6500_a_loaded_vhf_radio_also_integrated_with_class_b_ais.html>
 talks about that, Ben's conclusion seems to be that the difficulty in getting 
thru certifying a combo VHF and AIS transponder is daunting enough, adding a 
VHF splitter to that would make the challenge too much.

But you can still add a splitter on your own...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-10-12 10:59 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
:(
That is 99% of the reason I wanted the combined unit. I wanted to use the 
masthead antenna for both.
Dang!
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 09:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 

Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

Hi, Mike — no, I highly doubt there will be any kind of upgrade path to allow 
the GX2200 to transmit.  That takes a bunch more electronics, and also a lot of 
FCC certification.  If you look at the new VHF/AIS transceiver, it’s actually 
got TWO antenna connections on the back; one for VHF and one for AIS.  That 
would be tough to add to the GX2200…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 12, 2016, at 8:26 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> 
wrote:

Thanks Fred

We currently have the GX2200 which has AIS receive only.  Is there any 
indication that this can be modified to transmit AIS information as well?

We would very much like the ships to know where we are

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS




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-- Joel 301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[G Collins via CnC-List]

The VHF / AIS has N2K in/output - so it _should_ be plug and play to your 
plotter...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-10-16 10:28 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
Fred,

My VHF is due for replacement.  Adding AIS was always on my to-do list anyway.  
This is a great combination.  How would I get the AIS info to my chartplotter 
(Garmin) or Raymarine instruments?  Or should I wait for Raymarine to introduce 
their own version of VHF/AIS?  I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before other 
manufacturers offer similar products.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 08:28
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 

Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Stus-List AIS VHF

Well, my prediction a couple of months ago that it would be a while before we 
saw combined AIS/VHF transceivers has been proven wrong:

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2016/10/standard_horizon_gx6500_a_loaded_vhf_radio_also_integrated_with_class_b_ais.html

As soon as these are approved and available through distribution, I’ll be able 
to price them for C&C listers; let me know if you’re interested (Joel…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI




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Re: Stus-List Battery Charges and an ACR

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Edd

First, I'm not sure why you see this as a problem, it will behave the same way 
as when you are motoring.

But you can turn off the ACR, just put a switch in the negative wire connection 
on the ACR.  Disconnecting the negative wire renders it non-functional, which 
would then let you charge banks separately.

When I installed my ACR I actually disconnected one of the dual outputs from my 
charger, now it only charges the house bank directly and the starting bank thru 
the ACR.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-11-09 6:30 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Listers,

Finally coming out of my depression (about the boating season being over — not 
the election) and am seeking a recommendation for a good on board battery 
charger.

Here’s the rub — I’m learning that most of the smart chargers out there, like a 
ProSport, won’t work with my system because I have a house bank and an engine 
bank — and when over 13 volts is detected, the ACR kicks in and charges both 
banks, throwing off the ProSport and letting the volts just keep climbing.

Anyone now of a good wall-mount charger that will just kick in 13-14V or so 
when operating? It won’t be used often — just the rare occasions when I’m 
plugged in to shore power.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log







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Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Dave, if you soldered a crimped connection in the harness shop I worked at the 
Quality Assurance folks would hang your head on a light pole in the parking lot 
as a warning to others!  We built wire harnesses for tanks, helicopters, and 
fighter jets.

I think the attached .pdf is small enough to sneak through the server, I draw 
your attention to the 2nd last page.

As to sourcing terminals, Digikey is a good and reasonably priced source if you 
are buying quantities.  If you only need 4 then not so great.

A good quality crimp tool is key.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-12-11 2:13 AM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
Flanged has the ends bent up and locking has a narrowing of the space between 
the fork's tines that means the terminal has to be clicked into place.  Either 
works for me.   Fred mentions that he prefers rings because they wont fall off 
shoudl the screw loosen.   I prefer locking forks because I wont fumble and 
drop the removed terminal block screw in the bilge!  (its the kind of thing I 
do...) and sometimes the terminal screws are staked into the terminal block and 
can't be removed.

Ancor stuff is fine but remember they just repackage for the marine market and 
there are lots of industrial options out there if you have access or want to 
bother looking around a bit.   The best (most rugged) hand crimp-able terminals 
are non insulated terminals that have a second sleeve of metal over the crimp 
sleeve.  (i forget the industry term at the moment...)  The self encapsulating 
insulated terminals Rick mentions are nice. but I think that crimping, then 
soldering a quality non-insulated terminal then strain relieving with 
heatshrink (to alleviate the solder hard spot that wicks up the conductor) is 
the best solution of all, and looks like it was done by a mil qualified harness 
shop.   (past life...)  This will outlast the boat and owner and never oxidize 
or give trouble.  Doesn't take much longer.

Dave






-- Forwarded message --
From: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500
Subject: -- Forwarded message --
From: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..
Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the “bent up” ends – I think 
they are called “flanged”.

And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are 
the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and keep 
out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC..
Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the “bent up” ends – I think 
they are called “flanged”.

And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are 
the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and keep 
out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



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electricalTerminals.pdf
Description: electricalTerminals.pdf
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Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

[G Collins via CnC-List]

In Canada you can try these guys, not sure of window prices - haven't needed 
that yet.

http://www.outdoorfabricscanada.com/

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-12-13 3:05 PM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List wrote:
Sailrite is a great source, however if you are in Canada , the shipping is 
crazy expensive compared to value of material (otherwise Sailrite would have 
tons more of my money I tell ya !)


Tim Sippel

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 1:09 PM
To: C&C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

Sailrite has many types and gauges 
http://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=windows
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 9:50 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I bought 30 gauge Vinyl from a local sail maker , depends where you live I 
guess . its expensive stuff but if you can get by with 36” x 54” its out there

Don’t forget to sew glass behind old glass and seem rip the old one outta there 
.

If up north is Ontario near barrie… tj outdoor fabrics


Tim Sippel

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Nate Flesness via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nate Flesness mailto:nateflesn...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List buying clear vinyl for broken dodger window

Winterizing mistake - accidentally bent a dodger side window too far on a cool 
day and heard a nasty "snap" sound, now need to replace one dodger window. 
Other windows are fine and look pretty new. Will measure thickness, and assume 
strataglass? How do you tell type/brand? And, browsing sources, looks like 
large pieces only at high prices? Anyone else need a piece?

I have the Sailrite sewing machine and would do the sewing myself

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1

Valhalla
1994 Tartan 31

Both on the hard Up North




This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 



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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR





This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
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Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 




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Re: Stus-List Spin Halyard Parking Cleat

[G Collins via CnC-List]

No pics here Jim, when you steal someone's idea it is best not to document 
it...  :-)

Works like a charm though, very helpful when I'm on my own.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-12-23 2:50 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
I thought I had one but can't find it. Graham Collins may have a pic, he did 
the same mod. I will try to remember to take one next time I'm out.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 19 December 2016 at 12:51, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Jim, I like that idea, do you have a photo of the cleat in operation? thanks

Richard
S/V Bushmark4; C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: 1 CnC List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Jim Watts mailto:paradigmat...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Mon, Dec 19, 2016 3:39 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spin Halyard Parking Cleat

I have a parking cleat for my main halyard, lets me do most of the hoisting at 
the mast and finish it off with a cockpit winch. It's a cam cleat 2'' inboard 
from where the halyard passes. Once I have the main up enough I stick the 
halyard in the cam cleat, then the tension on the main halyard on the winch 
pops it free. Works like a hot damn.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Merry Christmas Stu, thanks for putting this boating family together!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-12-25 11:59 AM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:






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Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Merry Christmas Stu, thanks for putting this boating family together!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-12-25 11:59 AM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:


[xmas]



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Re: Stus-List early 80s vintage HilleRange oven repair

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I changed the thermostat, the oven worked well for 2 years and then died with 
different symptoms.  Sure Marine was excellent to work with, only praise for 
them.  But I decided to move on and replaced it with a ENO 3 
burner
 which is great.  Slightly smaller, so I had to make new side blocks and rework 
the gimbal lock at the bottom.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-01-05 7:22 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:
So I’m trouble shooting my HilleRange oven and working with the guys over at 
Sure Marine.   Sounds like I may need to send them the thermostat for repair.

Anyone gone down this road?  Are there other options out there, other than buy 
a new oven?

Thanks,








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Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue

[G Collins via CnC-List]

get a 1" chisel, very carefully use it to scrape the surface clean.  It might 
be best to round off the corners of the chisel if you are not sure of your 
hand...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-01-15 7:48 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
Hello all,
I'm in the process of replacing all my hatches.  I've removed them and trying 
to clean the surface where they bed.  I have the de-bond marine product.  I 
applied that and scraped again but,  there is still residue.

Anyone have a secret method to get that surface clean?  I'm going to try 
something abrasive like scotch Brite pads.

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device



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Re: Stus-List re; marinco/shorepower inlet

[G Collins via CnC-List]

In my opinion, the smartplug is a far superior product.  And easy to install.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-02-09 1:29 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
The Marinco contacts on my boat inlet were burned.  I replaced the inlet with a 
Smart inlet, using the same boat wiring.  Then I replaced one end of my power 
cable with the Smart plug.  I didn't have to replace the other end of the power 
cable.  However, you can buy a new cable with the Smart plug already attached, 
and then just replace the inlet on the boat.  If you're not familiar with the 
Smart plug, it snaps into place, and can't be removed without depressing the 
locking tabs on both sides of the plug.  The inlet has a waterproof cover which 
hinges down to protect the pins from the weather.

Alan

On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 7:49 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Alan, was the change over to the Smart Plug just re-attaching the regular 
wiring?   I am assuming this must be done at both the boat end and the power 
cord end? Thanks

Richard
S/V Bushmark4; C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: C&C mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN mailto:trya...@alumni.usc.edu>>
Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2017 10:22 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List re; marinco/shorepower inlet

I've been using a Smart Plug ever since it was introduced, with no problems.  
The contacts are larger, and a replacement (if you should need one) is readily 
available.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Feb 9, 2017 at 3:34 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I would think twice abut the smart plug for a coupla reasons -

1)  it is effectively a proprietary solution, meaning that you cannot use more 
widely available connectors should yours fail, get stolen, etc...

2)  I see you have a .ca email address - you need to check if the item is CSA 
approved.  Probably nobody will enforce this, BUT if you have a fire it could 
be a concern insurance-wise.

That said, the standard "twistlock" solution is far from ideal, primarily 
because the female connector (which engages the inlet) is subject to contact 
fatigue, corrosion, resistance, heat, melt over time.   (In my 20 years with a 
major manufacturer of these things, I noticed a pattern)

Not sure why the Marinco inlet requires replacement, but why not just replace 
the whole thing? The part will likely cost nearly the same -or more - as the 
complete unit, and may be a PITA to get.IF the replacement is suggested 
because of evidence of corrosion or heat, check (and replace)  the mating part, 
that's where the likely cause lies. If the contacts are bent, they will 
certainly distort the mating female contact, contributing to the 
resistance>heat>failure cycle.

These things do fail, and in my experience its with the female contacts 
overheating at the inlet.

Dave




-- Forwarded message --
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2017 00:35:28 + (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List marinco
Our 29-2 was built in 1984. The survey says the marinco inlet interior needs to 
be replaced. Where can I find the insert? The 305crmb is supposed to work for 
models after 1991. Should I give it a go?


-- Forwarded message --
From: ALAN BERGEN mailto:trya...@alumni.usc.edu>>
To: "C&C" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2017 17:07:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Stus-List marinco
Replace it with a Smart Plug:  
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290035|2290039&id=3472976

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Windlass placement

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Jacob

Some of us have installed anchor windlasses in the anchor locker, if you like I 
can provide details.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-03-26 1:20 PM, jacob fuerst via CnC-List wrote:
Currently I do not have a windlass on the boat. The anchor locker and lid takes 
up the entire bow beyond the vberth.

In order to place the vertical rope to chain windlass on the deck requires 
placing it above the vberth and running a channel for the rode back into the 
locker. Additionally this would mean cutting into the liner inside.

There are holes in the bulkhead where there appears to have been a shelf bolted 
inside the anchor locker but going only to that seems very weak. I'm thinking 
now of reinforcing the bulkhead and sort of glassing it into the sides and then 
bolting a frame to set the windlass on and it would be fully contained within 
the locker.

Has anyone been through this or have suggestions or notes of caution?

Jacob Fuerst
'78 C&C 36
Ventura, CA
303-520-4669



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Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

[G Collins via CnC-List]

That is odd Mark, I've bought acrylic from them 3 times without 
problems.  They sold me a half sheet 2 x 8 last time.

It may be that asking for 9mm is confusing things, I'd call them and ask 
for 3/8th inch.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-04-04 5:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done 
> some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems 
> to come up.
> I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of 
> 9mm acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't 
> seem like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or 
> availability.
>
> I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the 
> replacement this spring.
>
> Mark
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 2017-04-04 3:35 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List wrote:
>> http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/blog/2011/05/08/175/
>>
>> Gives a good explanation  but its clearer, and harder more 
>> scratch resistant, and similar properties in all directions.
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
>> Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:21 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.
>>
>> Hi Paul,
>>
>> I don't remember the reason.  Why cast?   What is the other type?
>>
>> Kindest Regards,
>>
>> Bruce
>> 847.404.5092
>>
>> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>>
>>> On Apr 4, 2017, at 2:13 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>>
>>> And be sure its cast ...
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
>>> Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:01 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.
>>>
>>> Remember to use plexiglass, not Lexan.  Lexan will scratch and craze.
>>>
>>> Kindest Regards,
>>>
>>> Bruce
>>> 847.404.5092
>>>
>>> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>>>
 On Apr 4, 2017, at 12:39 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List 
  wrote:

 I spoke to a local fabricator about making the windows.

 We spoke for a while about the curvature of the windows and whether 
 they would have to be thermoformed.

 I know the windows curve to match the curve of the cabin top, but 
 are they at all curved vertically?

 Researching Lexan is seems you can cold bend it as long as the 
 radius is 10x the thickness.

 For anyone who has done this on a 34/36 or 37/40, were the 
 replacement windows flat stock?

 Thanks,

 Eric
 S/V Hee Soo
 34/36
 ___

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 you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
>>> you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
>>> you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
>> you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
>> you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> .
>


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Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Servicing -- Best Tool?

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Pin wrench.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-04-08 12:06 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
The cog set on the rear wheel of a bicycle is held on with the same sort of 
retaining ring, and removed with a “special tool”.

A local bike shop will have a spanner with the handle made from a long “U” of 
heavy wire with 2 pins to engage the holes. I don’t know what they cost these 
days, my old one was maybe $5, and it has been repurposed into the winch 
service kit.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 3:15 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers,

For those of you with Barient Winches on their C&Cs, what is the best tool to 
use to unscrew that top ring?

See; http://www.saillistings.com/images/2014/10/02/323/barient-32-winch_2.jpg

What works best in those two holes on either side of winch handle entry?

2017 C&C Northeast Rendezvous "Movie 
Trailer"

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




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Re: Stus-List Diesel Air Heaters (Webasto, Planar, Eberspaecher/Espar)

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew

I've got an Espar hydronic unit, and love it.  Before you get too far though 
you should ponder where to install the unit, and how and where to run the 
exhaust.  For example, the exhaust needs to be held several inches away from 
combustable materials (e.g. hull, bulkheads, hoses...).  It took me a while to 
sort that part of things out.

You may find a D2 small, Espar has some materials that talk about size 
recommendations - but obviously it will also depend on what you want out of it 
- significant heat, or just to take the chill off in the main cabin.  I like 
having the head and the v-berth heated, makes life more comfortable!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-04-25 9:43 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List wrote:
Hey all -

Does anybody have experience with buying/installing/using a Diesel Air Heater 
(a-la Webasto, Eberspacher, Planar) in lieu of a propane/diesel/solid fuel 
fireplace-type heater?

The Safari (1977 C&C 34) currently has an ancient forced-air kerosene 
vaporizing heater that has nearly caught itself on fire multiple times when 
guests (and less-informed owners) have neglected to read the impossibly complex 
startup and shutdown procedure. It’s also battleship grey, weirdly shaped, and 
mounted on a bulkhead out in the open. And it takes 25 minutes to give full 
heat.

Originally we were thinking of replacing it with a propane or diesel fireplace 
type heater a-lal Dickenson or Sig, but somebody pointed me to Diesel Air 
Heaters like Webasto, Eberspaecher and Planar, and they seem like they could be 
a great fit. We have plenty of room to mount one in the engine compartment, we 
get near instant heat, we already have (some) ductwork run, and it would run 
off our existing diesel fuel supply.

Presently I’m leaning towards the Eberspaecher/Espar Airtronic 12V 
(http://www.heatso.com/eberspacher-airtronic-d2-12v-2-2kw-heater-kit/)
 - it’s nearly half the price of the Webasto models. Planar seems like another 
lower cost option, but apparently it’s from Russia and that makes me nervous.

Anybody used any of these? Why are Webastos $2700 and the Espars are $800?

Andrew

--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA



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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I do find it amusing that in 15 knots with just my 135 my boat is as fast as 
with the main up and a smaller jib.  I thought about trying that one on a race 
crew one time but figured they would have tied me up and stuffed me in the 
lazarette.  Thankfully there is that rule saying you have to finish with the 
same crew you started with...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-05-02 8:58 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
Alan,

It seems that the smaller your headsail, the faster you go.  Pretty soon you 
can race bare-headed and be at the front of the fleet.

Seriously, where do you sheet your 105 to?  I am looking to install an inboard 
track for my #3 to the cabin top, just outboard of the cabin top rails.  Right 
now I have genoa track that runs all the way to the shrouds, but the further 
forward the car goes, the worse the sheeting angle.  An inboard track would 
help my pointing immensely.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
[cid:part1.938EAA5C.3C928F79@hotmail.com]




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 14:32
To: C&C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

Joe:
When I first got my boat, I raced with a 155.  It kept back-winding the main, 
so I tried using a 135  with better results.  I gained six seconds in handicap, 
and there was no noticeable reduction in speed.  Then I tried racing with a 
105.  I gained another three seconds; I sail just as fast, and I point five 
degrees higher.  In fact, I point higher than everyone else in my fleet, and I 
get to the windward mark sooner than the rest of the fleet.  The crew can tack 
faster, and in light air, the sail won't flap around like larger sails will.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Re: Stus-List How are the reefing lines run on a 33-2

[G Collins via CnC-List]

A jam cleat on the mast may be for temporarily parking a halyard if you are at 
the mast pulling it up.  I use one for my main when I'm sailing by myself.  Or 
maybe for a cunningham?

My reefing lines come out the underside of the boom, down to the mast collar, 
and back along the deck to clutches near the companionway.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-06-11 12:28 PM, Doug Welch via CnC-List wrote:
I cant seem to figure it out. I have a jam cleat on the starboard side of the 
mast the stops a line from being pulled towards the deck (is this part of it?). 
I'm stumped


Thanks in advance

Doug Welch
Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
Frenchman's Bay



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Re: Stus-List Anchor windlass on CnC33-2 ?

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I put a windlass on Secret Plans 7 years ago and have loved it ever since - 
makes anchoring so much easier that it isn't thought of as a hassle.  I glassed 
a beam into the back of the anchor locker, fastened an aluminum bracket to it, 
and attached to the windlass to that - so it is not above deck at all.

I'm running rope plus 65 ft chain and a 15kg Rocna.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2019-09-29 1:45 p.m., Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List wrote:
I’ve been toying with the idea of installing an electric windlass on my C&C34-1 
too.

Options I’ve been considering:

1. Install a custom made aluminum (or fibreglass) hatch like this
https://youtu.be/2dgzGSks62A

2. Glass a shelf into the locker

3. Cut existing hatch and fortify portion for windlass install

For number 2, not sure there is enough room in the locker.

Other than the cost and effort, another negative for a windlasses is the 
possibility for corrosion an break down.

Hauling the 15kg Bruce + 10m of heavy chain is do-able but not ideal especially 
in deep, windy, tight spaces.  Recently reducing the chain from 20m to 10m has 
made it a bit better

Cheers,

Jeremy
  C&C34-1



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Re: Stus-List C&C Lister Roll Call

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Graham Collins / Secret Plans / 35-3 hull 11, sail 34383 / Halifax, Nova 
Scotia / cnclistforw...@hotmail.com / MMSI 316013924

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


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Re: Stus-List Compass

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Given how hard it was to get my compass off when I had the pedestal 
painted, I don't think my compass has been off for a winter except for 
that one.  No bubbles, works perfectly.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2019-11-04 9:12 a.m., Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
> To my northern sailors where the temps go below freezingdoes 
> anyone take their compass off the boat over winter?  Southern sailors 
> can chime in words of wisdom as well.
>
> I read somewhere it should be to avoid the stress on the seals but I 
> have never done it and my old compass works.  It was reconditioned in 
> 2006 after the boat made a road trip from Wisconsin to Halifax , Nova 
> Scotia.
>
> I don't know if the original owner there took it offfrom what I 
> understand, he was someone that might have done it.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Yah, my friend with the cottage north of Holland MI says it isn't that the lake 
is higher than it ever has been, this is just another incidence of it being 
high.  He used to have a few hundred feet of sand between his cottage and 
water, not any more... but bought the land from some folks who lost their 
cottage on the last big peak.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2019-11-25 9:59 a.m., schiller via CnC-List wrote:
Joe,

As I understand it, not really.  The water levels were really low in 2013 and 
there was a lot of discussion about how to restrict the flows.  There was 
discussion of placing restrictive boulders in the St. Clair river to try to 
control the outflow from Lakes Superior/Michigan/Huron.  Great Lakes Freighters 
were limiting loads to navigate and the Army Corp of Engineers was running out 
of money and resources to dredge.

The lakes go through cycles of high and low.  Lake Michigan/Lake Huron record 
high levels occurred in 1986 but are expected to break those records next year. 
 Whole sections of Lake Shore Drive between South Haven and Holland Michigan 
were lost to bluff erosion.  Now some of the houses left are in danger.  All of 
the other Great Lakes broke record high levels last year.

Here is a good link to the USACE data: 
https://www.lre.usace.army.mil/Missions/Great-Lakes-Information/Great-Lakes-Information-2/Water-Level-Data/

With Lake Superior as high as it is, I expect Lake Michigan/Lake Huron to 
remain high for a while.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 11/25/2019 6:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
This is maybe a really dumb question – is there a way to drain them?
Does anything control the amount of water that heads out to sea down the St. 
Lawrence Seaway, Erie Canal, and so on?

Joe
Coquina



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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I don't think out on the water counts as poor signal conditions.  My Sony 
android tablet has a built in GPS receiver and runs Navionics perfectly, as 
does my phone (which has no data plan, hence is not getting a location fix via 
data).

Do the cheaper iPads not have a GPS chip in them?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2019-01-19 12:17 p.m., Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
What this discussion is missing is the distinction between stand alone gps and 
assisted or augmented gps found in most mobile or cellular devices. Mobile 
devices having cell service or internet provider can augment gps. If the mobile 
device has no gps and no cell service it can still get a position from WiFi 
connection.  These are usually called location devices rather than gps and will 
only work with internet or cell service within range.  If the device also has a 
gps or has external gps access it will work anywhere that gps signals are 
available which is just about world wide. As long as your charts are downloaded 
on the device it should work anywhere.  The following discussion is from 
Wikipedia.


Standalone/self-ruling GPS 
devices depend solely on 
information from satellites. 
A-GPS augments that by using cell tower data to enhance quality and precision 
when in poor satellite signal conditions. In exceptionally poor signal 
conditions, for example in urban areas, satellite signals may exhibit multipath 
propagation where 
signals skip off structures, or are 
weakened by 
meteorological conditions or tree canopy. Some standalone GPS 
navigators used in poor 
conditions can't fix a position because of satellite signal 
fracture
 and must wait for better satellite reception. A regular GPS unit may need as 
long as 12.5 minutes (the time needed to download the GPS almanac and 
ephemerides) to 
resolve the problem and be able to provide a correct 
location.[2]

An assisted GPS system can address these problems by using external data. 
Utilizing this system can come at a cost to the user. For billing purposes, 
network providers often count this as a data 
access, which can cost money, 
depending on the 
plan.[3]

To be precise, A-GPS features depend mostly on an internet network or 
connection to an 
ISP(or CNP, in the 
case of CP/mobile-phone device linked to a cellular network provider data 
service). A mobile (cell phone, smart phone) device with just an L1 front-end 
radio 
receiverand
 no GPS acquisition, tracking, and positioning engine only works when it has an 
internet connection to an ISP/CNP, where the position fix is calculated 
offboard the device itself. It doesn't work in areas with no coverage or 
internet link (or nearby base transceiver 
station (BTS) towers, 
in the case on CNP service coverage area). Without one of those resources, it 
can't connect to the A-GPS servers usually provided by CNPs. On the other hand, 
a mobile device with a GPS chipset requires no data connection to capture and 
process GPS data into a position solution, since it receives data directly from 
the GPS satellites and is able to calculate a position fix itself. However, the 
availability of a data connection can provide assistance to improve the 
performance of the GPS chip on the mobile device.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 19, 2019, at 10:56 AM, T power via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Bruce,

I was thinking of using a Samsung tablet also. Do you happen to sail offshore, 
If so are you still able to run a Nav program in real time when out of range of 
cell and wifi?

Cheers,

Tom Power
Invictus
C&C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2019 9:43 AM
To: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

Hello all,

I am going to mildly disagree with the statements about tablets having to be 
cellular capable.  I have an old (2014) Samsung Galaxy 10.1 tablet that is wifi 
only, and it has GPS capability that I have used on my boat.

So while that statement might be right for other makes and models, it is not 
c

Re: Stus-List Headstay Bulkhead holding Chainplate Rotten through

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dan

Were it mine I'd cut out everything but the forward tabbing.  Cut a new piece 
of ply (or foam core if you are drastically against ply) to shape.  glass the 
forward side.  Remove the new core and replace with solid glass/epoxy in the 
area where the bolts will go thru for the plate.  glass the aft surface.  Glue 
this to the tabbing left behind, and then generously tab on the exposed side.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2019-01-29 12:48 p.m., Dan via CnC-List wrote:
I need the collective wisdom on this one.

Pictures here:
[https://drive-thirdparty.googleusercontent.com/16/type/image/jpeg] 
IMG_6750.JPG

[https://drive-thirdparty.googleusercontent.com/16/type/image/jpeg] 
IMG_6747.JPG

On Breakaweigh I discovered my forward bulkhead holding the chain plate for the 
headstay was constructed using a plywood core and had been modified over the 
years. Of course no one thought to isolate the core in there when drain holes 
were drilled and such and now the core material inside the bulkhead is nearly 
disintegrated or rotten. There is a front and back fiberglass layer, each about 
1/4" thick and are well tabbed into the hull.

This rot is making me damn nervous and my gut is telling me to cut into the 
exposed side, remove the rot, clean it up, sand, etc. and re-bed in something 
stronger than wood, then re-glass and re-tab it into the hull.

Before I try anything like that I'm just wondering if cutting then re-glassing 
one side of these original hull tabs is a bad idea? will the new tabs be strong 
enough to support the re-inforced bulkhead? (using good quality glass and epoxy)

Thanks guys,

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List Problems removing rudder from Custom C&C 43

[G Collins via CnC-List]

The previously mentioned two nut method would be the first thing I'd try, the 
more extreme version is to put a nut on and get it welded in place.


good luck!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2019-02-06 9:37 p.m., Neil Holtzhausen via CnC-List wrote:
We own a custom C&C 43 and are attempting to remove the rudder to 
service/replace bearings as needed. We have successfully removed all the nuts 
and bolts of the quadrant, but are having trouble removing the final threaded 
bolts securing the post in position. (These are two threaded bolts coming out 
of the sides of the post, with a ring/washer at the end of the thread, closest 
to the post, but this item can not be removed with a wrench, as it is round. 
photos available at 
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/rudder-post-removal.195200/)

Can anyone provide info regarding how to remove these threaded bolts ?
Also, once these are removed, will we be able to drop the rudder?
Any suggestions where to find replacement bearings if needed?
Best lubrication to use?
Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks
s/v Tiger




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Re: Stus-List Cutless bearing.

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Brien

Johnson cutless bearing model "BACK" - 1" shaft diameter, 1.25" outside 
diameter, 4" long.

I got mine from DeepBlue Yacht Supply $58.99

cheers,

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2019-02-07 9:38 a.m., Brien Sadler via CnC-List wrote:
> Any 35-3 owners have a suggested replacement cutless bearing. Mine has a 
> little play in it and I think it’s time. I know the shaft is 1 inch diameter. 
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Brien Sadler
> TAZ
> C&C 35-3
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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Re: Stus-List Older GPS units may have issue after April 6, 2019

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Try it on April 7th, and if it doesn't work see if Garmin is offering a 
firmware update for it.  You'd probably need a computer connection cable to put 
an update on it, which may cost more than the unit...

This is a classic "own goal" thing, they (the system designers, not Garmin) set 
up the system with a small date range and created another version of the Y2K 
problem.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2019-02-14 7:29 p.m., Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I just read an article that GPS time will be reset on April 6, 2019.  That may 
affect older GPS units.

https://liliputing.com/2019/02/old-gps-devices-may-stop-working-properly-in-april.html

I must admit ignorance on the substance of this atricle and what it means.  
Anybody got a decent understanding of this situation?

I have an old Garmin 128, circa 1999, which I use as a back up to my newer 
Garmin.  I'd hate to lose accuracy on the older unit.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



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