if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on the 
stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.

Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it as it 
made it a lot faster to turn the cone.

Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I 
ground one down to fit the inside nut.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks Rick,

So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both 
seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench 
liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I stopped 
up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively down both 
scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles and put a 
wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with a rubber 
mallet to no avail.

There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with 
anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of 
anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in 
storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe trick 
but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will send an 
update then!

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dan;

The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind of 
like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.

The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. There is 
a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered plug into the 
tapered body of the through hull.

If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove it, 
just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to soak in a 
bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. Neither the nut or 
the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A sound tap or two will move 
the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break the bond of the internal 
corrosion.

When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what keeps 
water from leaking around the plug.

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com<mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a liquid 
penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances are most of 
it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a way to plug the 
seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the top of the plug when 
you pour from the top it may then seep around the plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total), sprayed 
inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have loosened that 
tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my mind, but now it 
makes complete sense. I can try spraying from undneath/outside the boat which 
would have the same effect as spraying from the removed hose?

Dan



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.
/J

On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan 
<dgcorm...@gmail.com<mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS


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