Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Jeff Allston via CnC-List]

Josh,
That's one of their models. Mine is the furnace only, no stove/oven. 
See http://www.wallas.fi/index.php?id=45 for details.
Jeffs/v Full DeckVictoria, BC

Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 18:19:05 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckl...@gmail.com

Jeff, 
Is Wallas the diesel stove/oven that starts a blower when you close the lid?  
Cool idea for getting propane off the boat.
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 
On Feb 6, 2016 1:19 PM, "Jeff Allston via CnC-List"  
wrote:



Hi Steve,
I had a Wallas 30 Dt installed on my 32 two autumns ago. I live on the boat in 
Victoria over the winter so it gets a fair amount of use.
I went with a professional installer and it took him two days to get it all 
done. It would have taken me significantly longer. The heater is installed in 
the port lazarette tucked up under the coaming. It's a bit of a pain to remove 
for servicing, but it's out of the way the rest of the year.
This model heater has two hot air ducts and two cold air returns. One cold air 
return is under the cockpit seat on the port side and the other is in the cabin 
on the bulkhead behind the fridge. Both hot air runs enter under the sink and I 
have one outlet vent there. I ran the other duct under the stove, behind the 
water tank, through the hanging locker and, finally, out the bottom of the 
storage in the v berth. I wrapped the heating ducts with insulation. Don't skip 
this step.
It works great. I went with Wallas because the national distributor is in town 
and I figured they would have all the parts and expertise I would ever need.
If you want more details, and there are many, let me know.
Jeffs/v Full DeckVictoria

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 14:41:17 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com

Hi All,
I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running one on a 
32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The literature 
indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet of boat, so it sounds like I need the D4 :(
My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the season, not living aboard in 
the winter. The boat is two hours away so there will be "maintenance" trips in 
the spring and fall which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite cold up 
there. 
I have to keep the temps warm for the boat parrot who'll be living aboard with 
us while we cruise. We're planning three weeks in August this year so it 
shouldn't be too much of an issue but it gets cold up there at night, even in 
August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold summer nights but I have ideas 
about maybe cruising the North Channel when the fall colours are out. I don't 
want to limit myself. At the same time, I don't want to spend money that could 
go elsewhere. 
The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters are pretty but I hear they don't 
make quite enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, but don't want to be 
disappointed. Everyone says the Espar and Webastos are best. 
I'de be doing the installation myself in any case so am eager to hear from 
others who have gone through it. 
Thanks,
SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto



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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I've never needed to start the engine to get the Espar to start.  It has
always started and run fine off the batteries.

Ken H.

On 6 February 2016 at 14:52, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is clear
> of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to the
> main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have flammable
> vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...
>
> And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two
> while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be
> adequate.
>
> I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off
> batteries all the time and have never had an issue.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I'm reading the marine installation manual
> 
> and have some questions:
>
> - Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not
> allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline
> tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of
> these?
>
> - Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small
> that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the
> lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Russ,
>>
>> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind
>> the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the
>> espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this
>> is pretty much how i have to mount it:
>>
>> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
>>
>> Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't
>> optimal either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the
>> venting, I'm not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Steve,
>>>
>>> I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the Newport
>>> heater. It can be tricky.
>>>
>>> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge
>>> advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral
>>> & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>>>
>>> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper
>>> venting is the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
>>> tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that
>>> gravity feed is not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a
>>> little impulse pump similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about
>>> putting the tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and easy
>>> to fit a deck fill to keep everything outside. Either heater would like a 2
>>> - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day use in cold
>>> conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>>>
>>> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will
>>> have both types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>>>
>>> Cheers, Russ
>>> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>>> Vancouver Island
>>>
>>>
>>> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>>
>>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I
>>> like the idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>>> favourite things. But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove
>>> types, which are super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have
>>> drawbacks on a boat. The espar is appealing because it's out of the way.
>>> The problem for me with the diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4
>>> powered boat and one thing I really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater would necessitate a gravity
>>> tank somewhere inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space, maybe in the
>>> hanging locker. I'm concerned about the diesel smell. Most of what I've
>>> read about them is good however and to your point, maybe more heat than the
>>> D2, less money for sure. It's still an option, will my boat smell like
>>> diesel?Â
>>>
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use a propane tent heater
>>> the warms the cabin for 6 hrs on a small canister, but it

Re: Stus-List Owners Manuals?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Stu occasionally goes south for a bit in the winters so doesn't always
respond as quickly as usual during those times.  He'll see this thread and
get back to you soon.

Ken H.

On 7 February 2016 at 00:16, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello C&C Sailors,
>
> I recently bought C&C 30 MK1 hull #7 (if I'm decoding correctly; full hull
> number is 30007972).  Up until 2012, this boat was named Ruby (after her
> red topsides, I presume), and was in the Grand Traverse Yacht Club in
> Traverse City, MI.  Does anybody know anything about the history of this
> boat?
>
> More to the point of this email's subject, I ordered an owner's manual
> from Stu Murray and sent a check to him at the address listed on the
> cncphotoalbum website, but have yet to get any kind of response.  Is that
> still a viable way to obtain an owner's manual?
>
> Thanks in advance and best regards.
>
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK1
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1

[Curtis via CnC-List]

I am the Harbor Master For a marina here in the Low-Country of South
Carolina, I was hoping someone could share with me a contact name and
number for a Furler dealer. I was hoping to get a discount for advertising
their product line in my marina?

Second part, or question can you share some advise on the brand furler you
have had good luck with or better yet any horor stories on the one I should
not get for my boat? Thanks for your input.


I will be buying a new Scott sail designed for a furler %135



-- 

*Best regards,*

*Capt,Curtis McDaniel*



*"At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much."470-313-0918*
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

The Bruntons 3 blade autoprop is by now means a low cost feathering
prop...i have the H5 model on Alianna driven by a Universal M4-30...it is a
great prop...it was on Alianna when I purchased her about 12 years ago and
so far not one issue with this baby, strong forward into a headwind or
rough sea and strong in reverse too...because it is auto pitching and self
feathering the drag factor is low for those who care about speed; I really
like this prop

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|311|2349117&id=2349118


Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:21 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> >… Sounds like a Max-Prop is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it
> looks like those retail for a non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the
> entire boat.  Plus ongoing maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?
>
>
>
> After owning three different boats with MAX Props I expect the answer to
> “is it worth it” depends on how and where you use your boat.
>
>
>
> The way we use Calypso it is definitely worth the cost and maintenance.
> We often motor for hours against the current when doing deliveries.  When
> we were on the west coast of Vancouver Island having the extra ”traction”
> of a 3 blade MAX prop made it possible to power into an angry sea.  The
> boat stops like a trawler.  There is some prop walk but less than with a
> fixed prop.  I have operated MAX prop equipped boats with no noticeable
> prop walk.
>
>
>
> If we only powered off a mooring buoy or out of a marina then shut down
> the engine for the day one of the lower cost folder/feathering prop would
> be fine.
>
>
>
> For mostly racing the two blade is my preference, for longer distance
> powering (cruising/deliveries) the 3 blade is smoother.  If you look
> closely at a MAX prop be sure to check how much clearance you have between
> a blade tip and your hull.  Calypso’s 3 blade’s diameter is a bit larger
> than needed.  We experience a little more prop walk and vibration than
> necessary owning to the lack of tip clearance.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam
> Wheeler via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, February 05, 2016 3:58 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Sam Wheeler
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>
>
>
> Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a
> Max-Prop is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those
> retail for a non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.
> Plus ongoing maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?
>
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two
> blade 16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade
> Maxprop. Less vibration.
>
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
>
> C&C 35-III
>
> "BULLET"
>
> Detroit
>
> _/)~~~_/)
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Dwight,

What type of annual maintenance is required?  I assume anode replacement
and grease?

Josh
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Re: Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

The boat shows or the Defender spring sale should get you some kind of deal. 
Defender had some good furlers on clearance last year.  I can't remember what 
brand they were right now. 
I did install a superfurl on my 22 o'day some years ago.  I'd consider one of 
these again.  Easy to install,  very reasonable price,  made in USA.  The owner 
was available for advice. 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: 
Curtis via CnC-List  Date: 2/7/2016  8:46 AM  
(GMT-05:00) To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  Cc: Curtis 
 Subject: Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1 
I am the Harbor Master For a marina here in the Low-Country of South Carolina, 
I was hoping someone could share with me a contact name and number for a Furler 
dealer. I was hoping to get a discount for advertising their product line in my 
marina? 
Second part, or question can you share some advise on the brand furler you have 
had good luck with or better yet any horor stories on the one I should not get 
for my boat? Thanks for your input.

I will be buying a new Scott sail designed for a furler %135


-- 
Best regards,Capt,Curtis McDaniel"At sea, I learned how little a person needs, 
not how much."

470-313-0918



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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I have done nothing in the last 8 or so years at least, I replaced the
bullet anode on the rear of the prop about 8 years ago and it's still
good but I use a donut anode on the shaft right in front of the hub
behind the strut...very close to the prop, maybe quarter inch away, it
gets replaced every year...also replace the teardrop anode forward of
the strut...costs about $25 Cdn every year, I view that as normal
maintenance for anodes but the bullet anode aft end of the prop lasts
longer with these 2 on the shaft in front of the prop...the bullet is
rather expensive, about $40 Cdn so I don't want to replace it every
year...other than that scape a few barnacle off the hub some years
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 9:55 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Dwight,
>
> What type of annual maintenance is required?  I assume anode replacement and
> grease?
>
> Josh
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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>
>

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Stus-List Photo Album Orders, etc.

[Stu via CnC-List]

Hi all

As noted by Joe, we are in Florida trying to avoid the Canadian winter.  Some 
how, it is not as warm and sunny as expected, but we have not had to shovel any 
snow.

During our absence from Canada, I have listed burgees and decals as being ‘Out 
of Stock” until mid-April.  I just don’t have the room to carry the equipment 
and/or a stock of items.  Once we get back home, everything will be ready to 
ship.

Owners’ Manuals are different.  They are downloadable and don’t take any space. 
 If you use PayPal, your download link will be sent once I receive confirmation 
of payment.  Checks and money orders take longer.  It can take up to 2 weeks 
for the postal services to send a letter from USA to Canada.  My home mailbox 
is checked daily and I am notified when it arrives – mind you, I can’t cash it 
til I get back home.  PayPal is preferred.

If you have sent me a document to be posted on the Photo Album and don’t see it 
posted, don’t worry, it will be there sometime.  Our internet connections suck 
big time.  Some days it works.  If I do get connected, I might as well have a 
dial-up connection with a 256K modem.  And I refuse to pay for a monthly 
service that would need a 2nd mortgage on the house to pay for it.

So if you made a purchase, sent a document or try to contact me, we will reply 
as soon as possible – just be patient.

Have a good one
Stu___

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Re: Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My buddy and I install Harken furlers.  In our opinion, they are the best.
I have had a Harken  MKIII  furler on Touche' for 16 years with no issues.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Feb 7, 2016 6:47 AM, "Curtis via CnC-List"  wrote:

> I am the Harbor Master For a marina here in the Low-Country of South
> Carolina, I was hoping someone could share with me a contact name and
> number for a Furler dealer. I was hoping to get a discount for advertising
> their product line in my marina?
>
> Second part, or question can you share some advise on the brand furler you
> have had good luck with or better yet any horor stories on the one I should
> not get for my boat? Thanks for your input.
>
>
> I will be buying a new Scott sail designed for a furler %135
>
>
>
> --
>
> *Best regards,*
>
> *Capt,Curtis McDaniel*
>
>
>
> *"At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much."470-313-0918
> <470-313-0918>*
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I just looked at defender and they seem to have a display model harken mkiv for 
a boat your size for 1600.
They also have some for less.  Shaffer, profurl, ...


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: 
"Dennis C. via CnC-List"  Date: 2/7/2016  9:27 AM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1 
My buddy and I install Harken furlers.  In our opinion, they are the best.  I 
have had a Harken  MKIII  furler on Touche' for 16 years with no issues.
Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA
On Feb 7, 2016 6:47 AM, "Curtis via CnC-List"  wrote:
I am the Harbor Master For a marina here in the Low-Country of South Carolina, 
I was hoping someone could share with me a contact name and number for a Furler 
dealer. I was hoping to get a discount for advertising their product line in my 
marina? 
Second part, or question can you share some advise on the brand furler you have 
had good luck with or better yet any horor stories on the one I should not get 
for my boat? Thanks for your input.

I will be buying a new Scott sail designed for a furler %135


-- 
Best regards,Capt,Curtis McDaniel"At sea, I learned how little a person needs, 
not how much."

470-313-0918




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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Ok, so it looks like I shouldn't be installing one of these in the engine
compartment of my gasoline powered boat:

Warning - Explosion Hazard
1. Heater must be turned off while re-fueling.
2. Do not install heater in enclosed areas where combustible fumes may be
present.
*3. Do not install heaters in engine compartments of gasoline powered
boats.*

Boo.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 6:43 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've never needed to start the engine to get the Espar to start.  It has
> always started and run fine off the batteries.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 6 February 2016 at 14:52, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is
>> clear of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to
>> the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have
>> flammable vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...
>>
>> And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two
>> while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be
>> adequate.
>>
>> I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off
>> batteries all the time and have never had an issue.
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> I'm reading the marine installation manual
>> 
>> and have some questions:
>>
>> - Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not
>> allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline
>> tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of
>> these?
>>
>> - Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small
>> that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the
>> lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Russ,
>>>
>>> I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere
>>> behind the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely).
>>> With the espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the
>>> newport, this is pretty much how i have to mount it:
>>>
>>> http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg
>>>
>>> Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't
>>> optimal either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the
>>> venting, I'm not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>

 Hi Steve,

 I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the
 Newport heater. It can be tricky.

 The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge
 advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral
 & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

 Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper
 venting is the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
 tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that
 gravity feed is not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a
 little impulse pump similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about
 putting the tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and easy
 to fit a deck fill to keep everything outside. Either heater would like a 2
 - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day use in cold
 conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.

 On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will
 have both types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)

 Cheers, Russ
 *Sweet *35 mk-1
 Vancouver Island


 At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

 Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

 Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I
 like the idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
 favourite things. But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove
 types, which are super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have
 drawbacks on a boat. The espar is appealing because it's out of the way.
 The problem for me with the diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4
 powered boat and one thing I really like about my boat is that it doesn't
 smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater would necessitate a gravity
 tank some

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Why don't you start a discussion about replacing 
the A4 with something safer, like a diesel? :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35  mk-1
Vancouver Island
Gone sailing but couldn't resist that one!


At 06:56 AM 07/02/2016, you wrote:
Ok, so it looks like I shouldn't be installing 
one of these in the engine compartment of my gasoline powered boat:


Warning - Explosion HazardÂ
1. Heater must be turned off while re-fueling.Â
2. Do not install heater in enclosed areas where 
combustible fumes may be present.Â

3. Do not install heaters in engine compartments of gasoline powered boats.

Boo.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 6:43 AM, Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I've never needed to start the engine to get the 
Espar to start.  It has always started and run fine off the batteries.


Ken H.

On 6 February 2016 at 14:52, Graham Collins via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided 
the end of the hose is clear of any fumes you 
are good to go.  You could connect that through 
'to the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced 
piece of mind.  If you have flammable vapor in 
your main cabin then all bets are off...


And these things are pretty miserly, I might go 
through a gallon or two while working on the 
boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.


I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup 
draw, I run mine off batteries all the time and have never had an issue.


Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C&C 35-III #11
On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I'm reading the 
marine 
installation manual and have some questions:


- Under safety it reads: "The position of the 
combustion air must not allow exhaust fumes or 
flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a 
gasoline tank in my engine compartment. Does 
this preclude me from installing one of these?


- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? 
I'de like something small that I can top off 
from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place 
in the lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are 
others using if using a separate tank?


Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
<stevanpla...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside 
the cabin (somewhere behind the bulkhead I 
would imagine, hanging locker on my boat 
likely). With the espar/webasto, it's in the 
engine compartment. Also with the newport, this 
is pretty much how i have to mount it:

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the 
mast. Port side isn't optimal either. Now that 
I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the 
venting, I'm not really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport.Â


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 
2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the 
"Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.


The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead 
unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat 
output on low settings, not to be overlooked. 
The Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.


Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank 
location with proper venting is the same for 
both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. 
The tank can be almost anywhere for either unit 
and if elevation is such that gravity feed is 
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then 
you get a little impulse pump similar to what 
the Espar uses. I would see about putting the 
tank in the cockpit combing area, that's high 
enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep 
everything outside. Either heater would like a 
2 - 4 gallon tank since you're looking at up to 
1 gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.


On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for 
retirement cruising I will have both types of 
heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)


        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
        Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport 
heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of 
solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one 
of my favourite things. But the only units 
worth getting are expensive wood stove types, 
which are super nice, but I can't justify the 
expense and they have drawbacks on a boat. The 
espar is appealing because it's out of the 
way. The pro

Re: Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

What about Furlex furlers? I don’t have enough personal experience to judge 
which brand is better, but I liked my Furlex more than the current Harken. This 
might be a question of a model, but I hate the way the Harken (A00) attaches at 
the bow. You need 3-4 hands in order to attach the headstay (with the furler) 
to the chainplate. And the clevis pin is complex (and expensive (around $80) 
(http://ca.binnacle.com/p7445/HARKEN-CLEVIS-PIN-ASSEMBLY-5/16-INCH-UNIT-00AL/product_info.html))
 and have a tremendous propensity to jump into the water.

 

It looks like the new Harken furlers (MkIV) don’t have this issue.

 

The short story - check how the furler is installed, before you buy. 

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2016 09:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1

 

My buddy and I install Harken furlers.  In our opinion, they are the best.  I 
have had a Harken  MKIII  furler on Touche' for 16 years with no issues.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Feb 7, 2016 6:47 AM, "Curtis via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I am the Harbor Master For a marina here in the Low-Country of South Carolina, 
I was hoping someone could share with me a contact name and number for a Furler 
dealer. I was hoping to get a discount for advertising their product line in my 
marina? 

 

Second part, or question can you share some advise on the brand furler you have 
had good luck with or better yet any horor stories on the one I should not get 
for my boat? Thanks for your input.

 

 

I will be buying a new Scott sail designed for a furler %135

 




 

-- 

Best regards,

Capt,Curtis McDaniel

"At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much."

  470-313-0918


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Stus-List Diesel heaters

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Steve, I didn't read back too far, did you look at a propane bulkhead 
heater/fireplace? Been sailing GB forever with no special heater. I 
infrequently use a small electric ceramic cube heater at the dock with shore 
power spring and fall but I don't have a bird on board to worry about. Consider 
mosquito and black fly screen in May/June! It's only a degree or two colder 
than Toronto but the bugs are fierce. 

Len Mitchell 
Midland On
Crazy Legs
1989 37+

Sent from my mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Josh, 
I have a MaxProp and the annual service is simple. 
Keep anodes changed as on any prop. 
You grease with Lubriplate 130A. I keep a grease gun just for the prop. 
I'm an HVAC mechanic and learned long ago to grease outdoor bearings in the 
fall before winter so they don't freeze. If I pull the boat in the fall, I 
grease the prop then, so any saltwater gets pushed out of the gearing. The prop 
is pretty bullet proof, but I don't like to worry about water droplets freezing 
inside where tolerances are close. I cover my winches with buckets for the same 
reason. Cheap insurance. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Josh Muckley"  
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 8:55:03 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 



Dwight, 

What type of annual maintenance is required? I assume anode replacement and 
grease? 

Josh 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I ended up doing what Joe did. I didn't replace the thru hull, just
everything above it starting with the plywood backing plate. As there was no
evidence of leakage, I held the thru hull in place with a step wrench and
didn't disturb it, just put new wood in place (bedded) and re-plumbed with a
proper ball valve.

Gary
#593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Bognar via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 9:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joseph Bognar 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

Joe : send me your e mail off list . jbog...@sympatico.ca I did this last
summer and I have photos. I found the thru hulls and ball valves at my
chandlery . I did not need to replace the thru hull . I just had to re bed
it and make a new backing plate 

Sent from Joe Bognar
> On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:39 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> Howdy Listers,
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This
project
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of 
> expanded (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25 
> diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand 
> proud of it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the 
> flange and then remove the through hull from the inside.
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might 
> find them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> Annapolis
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I went through this same process last year.  I was very interested in the 
MaxProp until I talked to a friend of mine who raved about his Gori 3-blade.  I 
looked into it and wound up buying a Gori 3-blade for our 30-2 as well.  It’s a 
unique design where the blades reverse, providing full performance in reverse 
as well as a 2nd more aggressive pitch for cruising.  It eliminated our prop 
walk and has performed very well for us.  Lower drag when folded compared to 
the MaxProp.  No connection to any of the companies, but thought I would add 
another name to the search list.

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 4:59 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

 

I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of 
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would 
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to set 
and IIRC many of the components are plastic.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop

On Feb 5, 2016 6:59 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a Max-Prop 
is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those retail for a 
non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.  Plus ongoing 
maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?

 

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two blade 
16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade Maxprop. 
Less vibration.

 

Doug Allardyce

C&C 35-III

"BULLET"

Detroit

_/)~~~_/) 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ]On Behalf Of Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

Sam,

 

My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the blades 
flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but the prop 
does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years old and has 
never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year motoring though.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 16:13
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Sam Wheeler mailto:samwheeler.s...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

 

Thanks, everyone!  

 

Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low revs.  
Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve that issue?

 

Sam

 


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Re: Stus-List Diesel heaters

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Thanks for that Len. I don't have a propane system on my boat. It's looking
like a bulkhead mounted diesel fireplace style heater is the only practical
option at this point, with a day tank. I have a gasoline powered A4 and no
propane system on board.

We're at Bay Moorings. Lovely up there. Really looking forward to this
season.
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 12:32 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Steve, I didn't read back too far, did you look at a propane bulkhead
> heater/fireplace? Been sailing GB forever with no special heater. I
> infrequently use a small electric ceramic cube heater at the dock with
> shore power spring and fall but I don't have a bird on board to worry
> about. Consider mosquito and black fly screen in May/June! It's only a
> degree or two colder than Toronto but the bugs are fierce.
>
> Len Mitchell
> Midland On
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

My reasonable priced CDI furler is still going strong without any issues...


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Curtis via CnC-List 

Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 8:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Curtis
Subject: Stus-List Furler for my C&C30 MK1

I am the Harbor Master For a marina here in the Low-Country of South Carolina, 
I was hoping someone could share with me a contact name and number for a Furler 
dealer. I was hoping to get a discount for advertising their product line in my 
marina?

Second part, or question can you share some advise on the brand furler you have 
had good luck with or better yet any horor stories on the one I should not get 
for my boat? Thanks for your input.


I will be buying a new Scott sail designed for a furler %135



--

Best regards,

Capt,Curtis McDaniel

"At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much."

470-313-0918

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Stus-List C&C 30 Equipment List

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

I was organizing papers and came across the original Standard and Optional 
Equipment list for my C&C 30. Interesting to read:


https://www.docdroid.net/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.pdf.html

[https://www.docdroid.net/file/view/6FjEscQ/standardoptionaleqlist.jpg]

StandardOptionalEqList.pdf
www.docdroid.net
View and download StandardOptionalEqList.pdf on DocDroid


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD
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Re: Stus-List Photo Album Orders, etc.

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thank you Stu. No worries - I can be patient. You'll notice a few duplicate 
orders from me - I neglected to note your mailing address the first time. I 
mailed you a check for one manual, and I only need one :) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Stu via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Stu"  
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 7:24:37 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Photo Album Orders, etc. 

Hi all 
As noted by Joe, we are in Florida trying to avoid the Canadian winter. Some 
how, it is not as warm and sunny as expected, but we have not had to shovel any 
snow. 
During our absence from Canada, I have listed burgees and decals as being ‘Out 
of Stock” until mid-April. I just don’t have the room to carry the equipment 
and/or a stock of items. Once we get back home, everything will be ready to 
ship. 
Owners’ Manuals are different. They are downloadable and don’t take any space. 
If you use PayPal, your download link will be sent once I receive confirmation 
of payment. Checks and money orders take longer. It can take up to 2 weeks for 
the postal services to send a letter from USA to Canada. My home mailbox is 
checked daily and I am notified when it arrives – mind you, I can’t cash it til 
I get back home. PayPal is preferred. 
If you have sent me a document to be posted on the Photo Album and don’t see it 
posted, don’t worry, it will be there sometime. Our internet connections suck 
big time. Some days it works. If I do get connected, I might as well have a 
dial-up connection with a 256K modem. And I refuse to pay for a monthly service 
that would need a 2nd mortgage on the house to pay for it. 
So if you made a purchase, sent a document or try to contact me, we will reply 
as soon as possible – just be patient. 
Have a good one 
Stu 


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Re: Stus-List Gori vs MaxProp

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Jim,  
I liked the engineering on the Gori, but didn't like all the exposed gears.  
Maybe your model is different than what I looked at?  What's the annual 
maintenance like? 
  
IIRC, I was told prop walk is caused by the angle of the shaft, and you should 
have it with any prop if your shaft is angled down like most keelboats.  A 
saildrive has the least propwalk, because the shaft is level.  Propwalk is not 
a bad thing.  It helps turn the boat and can be a big help when docking. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jim Reinardy"  
Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2016 2:49:29 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 



I went through this same process last year.  I was very interested in the 
MaxProp until I talked to a friend of mine who raved about his Gori 3-blade.  I 
looked into it and wound up buying a Gori 3-blade for our 30-2 as well.  It’s a 
unique design where the blades reverse, providing full performance in reverse 
as well as a 2 nd more aggressive pitch for cruising.  It eliminated our prop 
walk and has performed very well for us.  Lower drag when folded compared to 
the MaxProp.  No connection to any of the companies, but thought I would add 
another name to the search list. 

  

Jim Reinardy 

C&C 30-2 “Firewater” 

Milwaukee, WI 

  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 4:59 PM 
To: C&C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 

  

I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of 
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would 
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to set 
and IIRC many of the components are plastic. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop 


On Feb 5, 2016 6:59 PM, "Sam Wheeler via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 




Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a Max-Prop 
is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those retail for a 
non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.  Plus ongoing 
maintenance costs.  Is it worth it? 


  


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 




I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two blade 
16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade Maxprop. 
Less vibration. 


  


Doug Allardyce 

C&C 35-III 

"BULLET" 

Detroit 

_/)~~~_/) 



-Original Message- 
From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 5:55 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 


Sam, 

  

My Martec doesn’t like to turn at slow speeds. I can actually feel the blades 
flopping around if I’m near idle speed.  It’s not a big issue, but the prop 
does have some favorite rpm ranges.  Mine is now about 12 years old and has 
never been rebuilt.  I only average about 50 hours a year motoring though. 

  

Jake 

  

Jake Brodersen 

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress” 

Hampton VA 

  

  

  

From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Sam 
Wheeler via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 16:13 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Sam Wheeler < samwheeler.s...@gmail.com > 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 

  


Thanks, everyone!   


  


Tim and Dave, you mentioned issues getting the Martec to open at low revs.  
Would a short boost to high revs when you start the engine solve that issue? 


  


Sam 


  






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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Bill
It might be worth contacting Espar about it, I don't think that should 
be running like that.  The D5 I'm running is a fair sized unit, and 
startup has never been a big power hit.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-02-06 5:17 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:


Graham,
   Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner 
installed in port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well 
done, but he told me about current draw and starting engine to get it 
going.  After its running seems to do fine off twin house batteries.

Bill Walker
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail




On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:


The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is 
clear of any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 
'to the main cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you 
have flammable vapor in your main cabin then all bets are off...


And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or 
two while working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank 
would be adequate.


I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off 
batteries all the time and have never had an issue.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I'm reading the marine installation manual


and have some questions:

- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must
not allow exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I
have a gasoline tank in my engine compartment. Does this preclude
me from installing one of these?

- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something
small that I can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into
place in the lazarette. 5 gallons maybe? What are others using if
using a separate tank?

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa
mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Hi Russ,

I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin
(somewhere behind the bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker
on my boat likely). With the espar/webasto, it's in the engine
compartment. Also with the newport, this is pretty much how i
have to mount it:

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg

Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side
isn't optimal either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank
actually, and the venting, I'm not really sure where I'de
locate a tank for the newport.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
 wrote:


Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list
of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The
D2 has a huge advantage on heat output on low settings,
not to be overlooked. The Admiral & I are a big fan of
radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with
proper venting is the same for both, so diesel odour is a
wash, so to speak. The tank can be almost anywhere for
either unit and if elevation is such that gravity feed is
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a
little impulse pump similar to what the Espar uses. I
would see about putting the tank in the cockpit combing
area, that's high enough and easy to fit a deck fill to
keep everything outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4
gallon tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement
cruising I will have both types of heaters so I won't need
to choose which one is best. :)

Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters,
to be honest, I like the idea of solid fuel the most.
A proper wood fire is one of my favourite things. But
the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove
types, which are super nice, but I can't justify the
expense and t

Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Rick Bushie via CnC-List]

Anchovy got all new through hull fittings and proper seacocks four years ago. I 
bought everything, including flush fitting through hulls from Deep Blue Yacht 
Supply. I used a small diamond cutting wheel on my Rotozip to cut out the old 
fittings.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 30-1, Hull 1
Worton, MD.

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Diesel heaters

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Steve, I had a 1981 36 and the propane system was installed under the rear 
cockpit seating. Believe it was an 8 or 10 lb bottle but you could also use 5 
lb. The fibre glass seat cover piano hinged up to a cylindrical container that 
was vented out the bottom above the water line with a regulator and a solenoid 
valve. Buy a 25 foot propane hose, power a solenoid with a switch and you are 
in business. Pretty easy to install or have one installed if you build the 
propane locker which is also easy. Many were there from the factory, check out 
early 80s vintage C&Cs with propane. At one time West marine had the hardware 
regulator/gauge/solenoid. 

You may like diesel for other reasons but you don't have to rule out propane. 
It's an option. And yes diesel is safer than propane on a boat but not cleaner. 

Len Mitchell
Midland On
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+


Sent from my mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Thanks Graham I may do that in the spring.  
Bill

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, February 7, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Bill
It might be worth contacting Espar about it, I don't think that should be 
running like that.  The D5 I'm running is a fair sized unit, and startup has 
never been a big power hit.
Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 

On 2016-02-06 5:17 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:

Graham,
   Your thoughts would appreciated on start up draw.  Prior owner installed in 
port Lazarette.  He is particular guy, all looks well done, but he told me 
about current draw and starting engine to get it going.  After its running 
seems to do fine off twin house batteries.  
Bill Walker 
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



On Saturday, February 6, 2016 Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The Espar has an air intake hose, so provided the end of the hose is clear of 
any fumes you are good to go.  You could connect that through 'to the main 
cabin if you wanted for enhanced piece of mind.  If you have flammable vapor in 
your main cabin then all bets are off...

And these things are pretty miserly, I might go through a gallon or two while 
working on the boat in the winter.  So a tiny fuel tank would be adequate.

I'm surprised at Bill's comment about startup draw, I run mine off batteries 
all the time and have never had an issue.
Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 

On 2016-02-06 1:45 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

I'm reading the marine installation manual and have some questions: 


- Under safety it reads: "The position of the combustion air must not allow 
exhaust fumes or flammable vapour to be drawn in". I have a gasoline tank in my 
engine compartment. Does this preclude me from installing one of these?


- Can anyone recommend a suitable fuel tank? I'de like something small that I 
can top off from a jerry can, so I can secure it into place in the lazarette. 5 
gallons maybe? What are others using if using a separate tank?


Thanks,


Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto



On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 8:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

Hi Russ, 


I figure with the newport, the tank is inside the cabin (somewhere behind the 
bulkhead I would imagine, hanging locker on my boat likely). With the 
espar/webasto, it's in the engine compartment. Also with the newport, this is 
pretty much how i have to mount it:

http://www.thechandleryonline.com/images/productimages/thumbs/153_NewportHeaterInstalled.jpg


Starboard I have a dinette and of course the mast. Port side isn't optimal 
either. Now that I'm thinking about the tank actually, and the venting, I'm not 
really sure where I'de locate a tank for the newport. 


Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto



On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 7:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hi Steve,

I should have listed install location in the "Cons:" list of the Newport 
heater. It can be tricky.

The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead unit. The D2 has a huge 
advantage on heat output on low settings, not to be overlooked. The Admiral & I 
are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.

Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank location with proper venting is 
the same for both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The tank can be 
almost anywhere for either unit and if elevation is such that gravity feed is 
not going to work for the bulkhead heater then you get a little impulse pump 
similar to what the Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in the 
cockpit combing area, that's high enough and easy to fit a deck fill to keep 
everything outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon tank since you're 
looking at up to 1 gallon a day use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the 
D2. 

On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for retirement cruising I will have both 
types of heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:

Thanks for the helpful replies, all.

Russ, I really love the idea of the newport heaters, to be honest, I like the 
idea of solid fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my favourite things. 
But the only units worth getting are expensive wood stove types, which are 
super nice, but I can't justify the expense and they have drawbacks on a boat. 
The espar is appealing because it's out of the way. The problem for me with the 
diesel newport is the fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I really 
like about my boat is that it doesn't smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel 
heater would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere inside and I'm not sure where 
I'de have space, maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about the diesel 
smell. Most of what I've read about them is good however and to your point, 
maybe more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's still an option, will my 
boat smell like diesel? 

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Tom,

Calypso has had a Webasto T90 for 16 years.  Late last year it needed its first 
tune up.  We use the Webasto all year, even cruising in summer to take the 
evening chill off.  We did install a "summer" valve that allows use to stop the 
hot water flow to the cabin heat exchangers but have rarely used it.

The T90 is able to make the boat's cabin as warm as we can stand.  From a 
ambient 55/60F to 70F takes about 20 minutes.

Installation was a 1/2 DIY, 1/2 tech from Sure Marine.  We purchased the Sure 
Marine installation package that included step by step instructions and many of 
the needed fittings.

The current draw is highest at start up.  After the coolant is at temp the 
number fans (on high or low, 3 locations) and a circulation pump are the main 
current draw.  Calypso's house bank is 4 6v batteries and the furnace can 
typically run 4 to 5 hours without a charging session.  Running less heat 
exchangers/fans may extend the time.

For domestic hot water we installed an "Everhot" heat exchanger that acts like 
a coolant reservoir and heats the water for galley and shower use.  We are able 
to make as much hot water as what is in the boat's tanks.

Most of the DIY installation time was running the coolant hoses and installing 
the heat exchangers.  We had the pros perform the finish plumbing, wiring, and 
run the exhaust.  The furnace itself is compact but the overflow tank and the 
Everhot tank take up some lazerette space.  We ran the hoses thru the bilge.  
The fuel has its own feed direct from the tank.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 7:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake Ontario I 
have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to heat we would 
have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat show I gather 
materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear of screwing the 
installation up makes me put it off another year.

Anyone have a hydronic setup?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I should have listed install location in the
> "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>
> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
> unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
> on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
> Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>
> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
> location with proper venting is the same for
> both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
> tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
> if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
> going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
> get a little impulse pump similar to what the
> Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
> the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
> easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
> outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
> tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
> use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>
> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
> retirement cruising I will have both types of
> heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> Vancouver Island
>
>
> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>
>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
>> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
>> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>> favourite things. But the only units worth
>> getting are expensive wood stove types, which
>> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
>> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
>> appealing because it's out of the way. The
>> problem for me with the diesel newport is the
>> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
>> really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
>> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
>> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
>> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about
>> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about
>> them is good however and to your point, maybe
>> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's
>> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
>> via Cn

Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

A liveaboard friend of mine has done it. As he was working full time it
took him close to two months. He was very meticulous thoug.
As long as you follow all specs, it is not rocket science, but it takes a
lot of time to do it right.
If you are serious about it I can ask him he may give you some pointers

Ahmet
On Feb 6, 2016 10:49 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake
> Ontario I have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to
> heat we would have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat
> show I gather materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear
> of screwing the installation up makes me put it off another year.
>
> Anyone have a hydronic setup?
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
> > From: Russ & Melody 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> > Message-ID:
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> >
> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > I should have listed install location in the
> > "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
> >
> > The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
> > unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
> > on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
> > Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
> >
> > Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
> > location with proper venting is the same for
> > both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
> > tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
> > if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
> > going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
> > get a little impulse pump similar to what the
> > Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
> > the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
> > easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
> > outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
> > tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
> > use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
> >
> > On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
> > retirement cruising I will have both types of
> > heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
> >
> > Cheers, Russ
> > Sweet 35 mk-1
> > Vancouver Island
> >
> >
> > At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
> >> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
> >>
> >> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
> >> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
> >> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
> >> favourite things. But the only units worth
> >> getting are expensive wood stove types, which
> >> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
> >> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
> >> appealing because it's out of the way. The
> >> problem for me with the diesel newport is the
> >> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
> >> really like about my boat is that it doesn't
> >> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
> >> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
> >> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
> >> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about
> >> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about
> >> them is good however and to your point, maybe
> >> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's
> >> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
> >>
> >> Steve
> >> Suhana, C&C 32
> >> Toronto
> >>
> >> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Andrew Burton
> >> via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
> >> How much fuel does the Espar burn an hour? I use
> >> a propane tent heater the warms the cabin for 6
> >> hrs on a small canister, but it's not dry heat.
> >> It takes the chill off, but doesn't dry the inside on a foggy Maine
> evening.?
> >>
> >> Andy
> >> C&C 40
> >> Peregrine
> >>
> >>
> >> Andrew Burton
> >> PO Box 632
> >> Newport, RI?
> >> USA 02840
> >>
> >> +401 965? 5260
>
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